Winestate Magazine March April 2012

perthgrapevineROD PROPERJOHNYou can’t miss Palmer Wines Restaurant the-bone stuff. A main course special of without a winery affiliation, very cool and it’sand Cellar Door, it’s on the main drag, Caves (very) local Amelia Park lamb ($34) comes a hit with the locals, especially winemakersRd, just east of Dunsborough townsite at in the form of four sizeable spicy crusted looking for something different. Degustationthe northern end of the Margaret River wine cutlets resting on a dollop of creamy mash ($90, $125 with wine) is available at dinner,region. I’ve driven by this complex many and served with a crunchy green salad. The Table d’hôte (two food choices and a glasstimes, but other priorities have precluded me lamb is pink, juicy, tender and absolutely of wine, $45) for lunch or simply coffee andfrom dropping in until now, on this fine day delightful. I share these dishes with my wife house-made cake for $8. Menu entrees arein the south-west corner of our state. It’s in as I’m mindful that when in the country, $17, mains $34 and desserts $13. Luncha delightful setting with a small lake, verdant expect country-size servings and that’s what Wednesday to Monday, dinner Friday andvines and lawns and Tuscan-like buildings you get here. You’ll find the range of Palmer Saturday. 7 Marrinup Drive, Yallingup;which have that restful, inviting look. The wines very complementary to the food. phone (08) 9756 6164.restaurant has an alfresco-style casual deck My favourites are a stunning chardonnayoverlooking the lush lawns and lake where that rates with the best in the region and a By the time you read this, Clancy’s Fishwe lunch and there is a more structured complex, wonderfully balanced shiraz, which Pub will have opened on Caves Rd, a fewsection with a bar, inside. This is the third has wine critics suggesting that perhaps minutes from Dunsborough. This is theproperty that Steve and Helen Palmer own Margaret River can make great reds other latest from the very successful pub groupin the Margaret River region, the others are than cabernet sauvignon and the Bordeaux after Fremantle, Canning Bridge and thea couple of sizeable vineyards further south blends. Both these wines have had stellar City Beach Fish Bar (they weren’t allowedwith one housing a function centre and art success on the show circuit. The restaurant to call this a pub) and has brought to thegallery. We begin lunch with warm, crusty opens Thursday to Monday for lunch, Sunday south-west the usual Clancy’s fare ofhouse-made bread and a green, peppery for breakfast. 1271 Caves Rd, Dunsborough; great beer, affordable wine, smashing fisholive oil ($9) – a comfortable starter. An phone (08) 9756 7034. ‘n’ chips and entertainment, in a family-entree of salt and pepper cuttlefish is next, friendly atmosphere. The brand-new pubserved with mayonnaise and toasted sesame The Studio Bistro is just south of Yallingup, is very accessible and is surroundedseeds and a small bowl of green chilli soy off Caves Rd, and is a very modern rendition by tall trees and bush. Co-owner Johnsauce ($18). Cuttlefish is very similar to squid of an up-market country cafe, although Fisher (an appropriate surname, don’t you bistro is the owner’s take on it and Studio is think?) says “it will offer a happy colourfuland this is scored in a diamond pattern, is appropriate, as it has a striking art gallery feel and an inexpensive alternative tolightly coloured, sweet, fleshy and meltingly attached. Leave some time for a gander some of the high-end venues in this verydelectable with the accompaniments adding at the paintings and jewelry in the gallery popular tourist region.” 1710 Caves Rd,lift and an extra dimension if required. Love but the café, oops bistro, deserves special Dunsborough; Ph (08) 9750 5034.this dish and I wonder how many diners shy attention. Although contemporary in styleaway from cuttlefish, yet pounce on squid if it fits in with the surrounding landscaped At Simmo's Icecreamery, nearon the menu. We follow with another entree, gardens and the bucolic vistas beyond. The Dunsborough, there are 44 award-winningsticky pork ribs, green mango, peanuts, chilli food is typically mod Oz, stylish, well-thought flavours to choose from, all developedand soy caramel ($18). There’s a bit going out and sympathetically priced. The wine list from an old-time Irish recipe. You’ll seeon here with these Asian-inspired additions is eclectic and has some imports which are bubblegum, caramel, malteaser, cinnamonto the pork, but the dish is well-balanced, not widely seen in this very parochial wine ginger, coconut choc fudge and 39 morenothing dominates and, just as the menu producing region of Margaret River. I guess lip-smacking delights. 161 Commonage Rd;describes, the pork is sticky and is fall-off- this is part of the attraction, a quality diner phone (08) 9755 3745. with good food, out of town, independent Above: Palmer Wines Restaurant and Cellar Door.52 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINSIt’s the time of year when Adelaide goes into or perhaps a rich veal shoulder ragu, also Festival time is also a good excuse tofestival overload, with the Fringe, Adelaide from the wood oven. There’ll be more get out of town and into the cool of theFestival and WOMADelaide now annual negotiation over the wine – five reds, five Adelaide Hills, and there’s no betterevents, along with the Clipsal 500, the whites that most customers have never place than Bridgewater Mill. For sheerAdelaide Cup and, this year, the Australian previously encountered, all available by the bucolic, if not gastronomic pleasure, it’sswimming championships making March glass. They do takeaway pizza as well, so unbeatable – helped along by new chefand April party time for Adelaide. And that if the place is full there’s nothing to prevent Zac Ronayne’s menu.raises the question of where are the coolest you from taking your pizza and a bottle ofplaces to eat in the city at such a busy something nice purchased from East End When star chef Le Tu Thai left the Mill theretime. The easy answer is to head to Gouger Cellars (again, just around the corner) over were fears this could be a sign of “dumbingSt – Adelaide’s “eat street” and around the the road into the parklands for a truly al down” the award-winning restaurant, butCentral Market, or to the east end of Rundle fresco treat. 30 East Tce, Adelaide; phone that’s not been the case. Zac, a previousSt, where restaurants and cafes are cheek (08) 8359 2272. www.estpizzeria.com.au. sous chef to Le, has built on Le’s styleby jowl. But sometimes the best places arejust around the corner, or even underground. One way to beat both heat and milling with lighter though equally complex and crowds is to head downstairs to Jasmin wine-friendly dishes that reveal the Asian Stefano Capoccia and his wife Filomena Indian restaurant, where you encounter heat influence of his two years at Queensland’shave shown you don’t have to be on the main of another kind – just try the chicken tindaloo, Nu Nu restaurant. Look for dishes such asstreet to attract the crowds. Nano Ready to described by legendary Adelaide chef pork fillet and cheek – and a crisp pig’sGo, tucked off Rundle St in Ebenezer Place, Anant Singh as a “fiery curry – a must for ear, with a salad of blue swimmer crab,is big, bright and very Italian with all the right those who find the beef vindaloo mild”. Now coconut and green mango, or salt bushelements for breakfast and lunch, fast or in its 31st year, Jasmin promises careful, lamb porterhouse with chickpea puree andslow. Top of the menu is the Mediterranean fresh spicing and high quality cooking. cinnamon-laced labneh. 389 Mount Barkeromelette (provolone/spinach/mushroom/ The main menu doesn’t change much – Rd, Bridgewater; phone (08) 8339 9200.red onion/tomato) and incarozza (“holey even the daily specials seem familiar, but www.petaluma.com.au.bread” sauteed with egg, crisp pancetta what’s on offer is tried and tested to the nthand mozzarella), eggs with a range of degree by its many loyal customers. It’s not Left: Bridgewater Mill dining on the deck. ©SATC.side dishes, great coffee and orange juice all about heat, of course. There are milder Centre: Jasmin restaurant interior. Below: Giallo wine bar.pressed in front of you. Breakfast keeps curries and an excellent range of dishesgoing until 3.30pm. 23 Ebenezer Place, from the tandoor, as well as a very goodAdelaide; phone (08) 8227 0468. wine list. 31 Hindmarsh Square, Adelaide; phone (08) 8223 7837. www.jasmin.com.au. Literally just around the corner is EstPizzeria, a pizza bar that many have Every city has its place of the momentdescribed as being like a slice of heaven. and in Adelaide right now it’s Giallo,You can negotiate with the staff over tucked beside the Greenaway Gallery inwhether you want one of their thin-crust Kent Town. Proprietor Derek Muir haspizzas – perhaps prawns with black truffle, a history of creating gorgeous little cafeprovolone and rocket or porcini mushrooms restaurants, and although Giallo can bewith smoked scamorza cheese – or baked cramped and noisy inside, its shelteredgnocchi with gorgonzola and spinach, street-front courtyard is well protected frompolenta with roasted mushrooms and fetta, both elements and traffic, making it perfect for a summery lunch or dinner. Giallo’s menu and wine list are as cool as an Aperol spritzer. Starters could include Spanish white anchovies with salsa verde and a soft-boiled egg, or gin and juniper-cured Atlantic salmon with a shaved red cabbage, red radish and mint salad. Popular main courses include a Moroccan-style, pan- roasted chicken breast with green olive and preserved lemon, or confit duck leg with du puy lentils. The very individual wine list features almost everything by the glass. 39a Rundle St, Kent Town; phone (08) 8362 9006. www.giallowinebar.com.au. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 53

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGLike many Sydneysiders I spent a lot international guests that also boasts Sydney to open Xanthi. The moveof time in and around The Star casino/ the only private dining room at The Star downtown has also upped the decorrestaurant/theatre complex over the and stunning water views. BLACK by stakes. The restaurant is lavish with rugs,festive season. Oscar winner Kevin ezard, Level G, The Star, 80 Pyrmont St, cushions and a pleated dome of fabric inSpacey played Richard III for a limited Pyrmont; phone 1800 700 700. the centre to create a sultan's tent feel.season at the Lyric Theatre and I was Another surprise is the edited line-up offar from being the only person in the It's hard to believe but The Wine Plate Greek beers - Keo Cyprus, Alfa, Verginaaudience to walk across to BLACK by is the first wine bar in North Newtown. But and Mythos - which are far better partnersezard to enjoy the equally stellar food. the laid back term doesn't do justice to the for the lamb from the spit and other heartyA coin toss from Sydney's most plush sleek and chic eatery owned by Sharon meat dishes such as lamb Skaras - slow-casino, there's definitely nothing chancy Chalmers and her partner Maria. The braised and spiked with paprika andabout selecting from Teage Ezard's entree and main choices swing between garlic. I went for the rabbit stifatho andglamorous grill-style menu. Spain, France and South America, from was suitably impressed by tender flakes of chicken and duck parfait through garlic shredded meat layered with filo pastry and Formerly of Melbourne's twin-hatted king prawns with chorizo, pan-roasted tomato, and red wine sauce. If they are inezard, the journey north has weaned snapper with pepper mousse and chef season, try the peppered figs swathed withthe multi-award winning chef from his Carlos Zurita's Peruvian ceviche. Who has honey for a true taste sensation. Xanthi issignature Asian dishes and it shows first in the time to rustle up an authentic paella? easily the most glam Greek restaurant inthe restaurant's extravagant interior. Paul Certainly not me, so I ordered the famous town. Xanthi Bar & Restaurant, Level 6,Kelly Designs has configured a gleaming Valencian rice dish crammed with prawns, Westfield Sydney, corner Pitt Street Mall;blend of wood, copper and leather every mussels and juicy chicken. phone (02) 9232 8535.bit as sophisticated as Ezard's riff onJoel Robuchon's l'oeuf de poule, a slow- Other signature dishes include the Andy Bunn is another man on the move.cooked organic egg coddled in brik pastry beetroot and goat's cheese parcel, Formerly the chef at Cafe Sopra, he hasand served with a rich potato cream, truffle where the curd is encased in shave-thin struck out on his own to open Honeycomb.and jamon iberico. slices of the vegetable rather than pastry. A few of the dishes that walked out the Anyone with the late night munchies door at Sopra have made the menu cut at For those who have become accustomed should order the Wine Plate Cheese the new premises such as banoffee pieto great looking food where the taste and the salad of baby cabbage, balsamicdoesn't quite match, BLACK really does Selection - only $22 for big hunks of and reggiano. Just as simple and just ashave the X Factor when it comes to full- fresh-as artisan cheeses, quince paste good is the baby roast chicken served onflavoured ingredients even when the and honey. The service is as standout a bed of mustardy mash. You can bookdish is a simple pumpkin risotto. Craig as the wine selections which veer from ahead or take a punt. Reservations areHemmings (the urbane general manager the Clare Valley to the Veneto. A great taken for half the restaurant and the otherof Guillaume at Benelong for nine years) alternative to Newtown's slew of Thai and half is for the hordes of locals who want tokeeps things sophisticated service-wise other Asian restaurants. The Wine Plate walk into their new neighbourhood diner.and to pull in the corporate types from Restaurant & Wine Bar, 62-64 King St, BYO for now but they are working on athe surrounding office blocks there's an Newtown; phone (02) 8094 9994. licence. Honeycomb, 354 Liverpool St,edited selection of sous-vide steaks. If Darlinghurst; phone (02) 9331 3387.you drew a blank on that description, the David Tsirekas, who made the Peramakitchen pre-cooks individually vacuum- restaurant in Petersham Sydney's top Above: BLACK by ezard interior.packed steaks in a bain-marie and then Greek restaurant, has shifted to the glitzfinishes them off on a wood-fired grill to and glamour surroundings of Westfieldadd a crispness and whiff of wood smoketo the fork-tender meat. The wine list is superlative and includes750 bins. There's a great point-ofdifference with an exclusive selectionof American bottlings and more than 30wines are available by the glass. Themind-blowing dessert simply calledChocolate (a ball of warm couvertureganache, dulce de leche ice-creamand peanut butter mousse) I orderedmade a return trip definite. A very poshvenue to impress local, interstate and54 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELIconic steakhouse Cha Cha Char made in front of you while sitting at the fare, as is char-grilled octopus with kiflersexpanded its bolthole at the Eagle Street communal table. The wide, wooden and white anchovies, shaved celery andPier late last year, introducing a new and steps and ledge out front is also the tomato, saffron dressing. Brunch is alsolargely green venue, Organic Char. The spot to hang with a coffee or you can very popular with the locals as well as withonly fully certified organic restaurant in pull up a milk crate and read the daily tourists and holidaymakers. Smoothies,Brisbane, Organic focuses on great, local papers. Alongside the cafe is an old- virgin mary’s, organic apple and gingerand, of course, organic produce. White fashioned style grocer that stocks fine juice and freshly squeezed navel orangesleather high back chesterfield chairs quality, sustainable produce as well as accompany Demerara sugar crustedsurround marble-topped tables and vivid the Regimental range of condiments, blueberry pancakes, organic pork andmid-green accents the otherwise white- fresh quail eggs, organic milk and dairy fennel sausages with cherry tomatoes andon-white décor. The wine list features products, and inside the large, open-to- mushrooms and smashed local avocado,a plethora of organic and natural wines the-public cold room you’ll find a great grape tomatoes and char-grilled sourfrom Australia, New Zealand and beyond. range of artisan and farmhouse cheeses, dough with EVOO. Prices are reasonableSeating 50 with fresh decor inside the deli lines and great cured meats.glass-walled room that overlooks the 11 Florence St, Teneriffe. and you can have sides for an extra $4.river, the menu visits Europe and Asia Corner Thomas St and Gympie Tce,for inspiration with dishes like stir fried Up Noosa way and its all glam for the Noosaville; phone (07) 5470 2224.prawns and calamari with garlic, celery new-look Ricky’s which underwent aand shallots, charcoal grilled spatchcock complete makeover, including a new Up in Montville in the Sunshine Coastwith sambal oelek butter and fresh lime, kitchen, vast new, uber modern bar and hinterland is The Long Apron at Spicer’sand the always popular anise glazed pork lovely extended courtyard overlooking a Clovelly Estate. Part of the Spicer’s Group,belly with Asian greens in a miso broth. wide expanse of the Noosa River. Head the resort sits on several hectares of rollingEurope is represented by the carpaccio Chef Glenn Bowman breaths modern green pastures. Surrounding the lovely,of beets with mandarins, Barambah feta Spanish life into the produce-driven menu purpose-built building are manicured lawnsand black pepper oil, and there’s also two which he sources from as many local and gardens and a kitchen garden androasts of the day with some fabulously suppliers as possible. Prior to taking up orchard that supplies the restaurant with his current role, Bowman owned Alegria, fresh herbs, citrus fruits and vegetables.rustic side dishes and vegies which are a popular Spanish restaurant on Sunshine Cameron Matthews is the head chef anddesigned to be shared. For owner John Beach so its not surprising that the brings with him his classical training andKilroy, it’s a third river front venue, his menu begins with tapas and Andalucian years of fine dining experience. The formerothers are Brisbane’s favourite Steak and Basque influences are included head chef of Siggi’s and Sirromet Winery’splace Cha Cha Char and just down the in the tome-like menu. One dish with a signature restaurant, Lurleen’s, Matthews ariver seafood and fish specialty restaurant, decidedly Italian edge however, cannot two, three or five-course menu or you canJellyfish is firing again after a complete leave the menu for fear of a local revolt leave it to him and go for the tasting menupost-flood rebuild. Eagle Street Pier, and that is the spaghettini with spanner which features dishes like slow roastedBrisbane; phone (07) 3211 9944. crab, chilli, parsley and garlic, and the lamb belly with pickled turnip and coffee seared scallops and local cuttlefish cured Atlantic salmon, Tasmanian wasabi Sourced Grocer, at Teneriffe, has with feta and green olive is not going and granny smith apples. 68 Balmoral Rd,become an inner city food hub offering anywhere anytime soon. The bar has its Montville; phone1 300 252 380.a very casual menu specialising in own menu as well as a serious selectionbreakfast and all-day snacks which are of cocktails – think lemon meringue Left: Organic Char interior. Right: Organic Char’s carpaccio martinis, peach margaritas and the rum of beets with mandarins & Barambah feta. and muddled lime River Pirate. Noosa wharf, 2 Quamby Place, Noosa Heads; phone (07) 5447 2455. Also in Noosaville and with an eye on locally grown produce is Thomas Corner, and chef/owner David Rayner’s popularity continues to grow. Ultra casual with an indoor/outdoor ambience that perfectly suits holiday dining, the food here is quintessentially Queensland in every way. New season asparagus globe artichokes, fried zucchini blossoms and candied lemons is perfect vacationing March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 55

winewords J O H N D A V E YSKYE MURTAGHTHERE’S a strong sense of family spirit Describe your family’s connection with Name the most memorable bottle ofat Shingleback Wine in McLaren Vale. McLaren Vale? wine you’ve ever consumed?It may not be the oldest family owned After three generations of Sharpes farming A 1961 Chateau Margaux - a 30th birthdayand operated winery in Australia or have at Fulham on the River Torrens, my present in 1991 from my then girlfriendthe most family members involved, but grandfather, Gordon Sharpe, bought land Kate, which we consumed with Roseworthyyou get the feeling this close-knit group in McLaren Vale and in the hills to the east winemaking friends - Nick, Vicky, Pete andis bound by a commitment to quality, in the late 1950s, as part of what would Gail. We’ve enjoyed many great winesrespect for each other’s individual be for 50 years a successful dairy farming since and enduring friendships from ourtalents and a terrific sense of humour. business. Some of my earliest memories student years.Shingleback Wine is co-owned by are of crawling up the Old Willunga Hill Rdbrothers John and Kym Davey, with the with my brother and grandpa in an old red Where’s the most unusual place you’velatter as managing director and John Bedford truck. I’ve had the rare privilege as ever consumed wine?(the younger sibling), winemaker and a winemaker to create, with the assistance When I was just out of school in 1979, a bestviticulturist. The brothers share a love of and trust of my family, the Shingleback mate was working for a wealthy pastoralistthe land inspired by early childhood days McLaren Vale wines from the ground up over who had a wine importation sideline.spent running around their grandfather’s the last 20 years. My brother and I watched At 4am on a Sunday morning, afterproperty and further nurtured by their our grandpa run the dirt which nurtures everything was shut, we would end up backparents, Reg and Rhonda Davey. our vineyards through his fingers, and with at his parent’s place as they were usually atJohn was a bit of a late starter in the this sense of legacy there is a responsibility their beach house. We would drink bottleswinemaking business, commencing his to the future and a great pleasure in seeing of Chateau Yquem bought at low prices,working life in the hospitality industry. the potential of the land realised. put the stereo speakers in the windowsWhile he found success as a hotel blasting Jimmy Hendrix and bet on howmanager in his early 20s, the wine world What’s the best aspect of working so long it would take the first neighbour tocalled and John signed up to study closely with your brother Kym? complain. I’m really sorry Mr and Mrs Burns.oenology at Roseworthy College. After I’ve always had great respect for my brothergraduating he joined the Mildara Blass even as we were trying to kill each other as What’s one thing about Shingleback Winesgroup as a winemaker based at Krondorf kids. Luckily we are quite different people people may be surprised to discover?Winery in the Barossa. Nine years later with different skill sets, but just as important We’re working with the Department ofhe left to further hone his craft with stints are our shared values. Kym is the business Heritage & Environment to fence off andin Langhorne Creek, the Yarra Valley, savvy half of the partnership and my older preserve important remnant bushland andWrattonbully and California. In the 1990s, brother, which gives him a better shot than restore wetlands on the 400ha hills dairyJohn and Kym decided to combine their most at keeping the winemaker in line! farm that we closed three years ago. Thetalents and develop the Davey Family Charolais cross beef cattle which graze thereVineyard in McLaren Vale - on property What challenges arise from working in now are hard to find among the kangaroos.first purchased by their grandfather in the a family owned/operated winery?1950s. Today, the sustainably managed With only Kym, my wife Kate and mefamily estate has a predominantly shiraz directly involved in the business, and myand cabernet sauvignon focus and John parents as reasonably silent shareholders,oversees the winemaking from vine to this concentrated family ownership isbottle. Since the first wine was released manageable. Luckily our extended familyin 1998, the portfolio’s developed into a of Shingleback personnel, some who havediverse collection of fine wines under the been there since the beginning, bring abrands of Shingleback, Red Knot and The high level of professionalism or at least aGate. The winery has received significant degree of honesty and personal ownershiplocal and international acclaim, including that can’t be ignored. As a business we’vethe 2006 Jimmy Watson Trophy for the tried to continuously evolve and developShingleback 2005 D Block Reserve a professional structure that allows theMcLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon. organisation and the people in it to succeed.56 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

The continuing improvement of this International Wine and Spiritsignificant Yundi property adjacent to the Competition UK 2011Heysen Trail, and giving a little back to theenvironment is a passion of my brothers and a AWC Vienna Internationalmatter of pride to our family and Shingleback. Wine Challenge 2011How would you describe your own South Australian Wine of the Yearpersonal wine collection? Awards 2011 (Museum Reds)I have three beautiful teenagers and a winecollection that, at best, has personality. Winestate blind tasting ratedMy prized bottles are all great wines Empyrean above Château Latour,made by friends. An Old Bastard fromBoz; a Fonseca Vintage Port from Porty Mouton and Lafite 2011or an Old Faithful McLaren Vale singlevineyard wine from Nick. Not only do I know Respected wine writer Tony Love selectedthe story of these wines but the 100 per Empyrean as best red wine of SA 2011cent mates rates discount is exceptional.Thankfully, winemakers like to facilitate Decanter World Wine Awards 2010each other’s drinking habits and I havesome exceptionally generous friends. www.reschke.com.auCan you recall your first wine encounter? IN SEARCH OF PERFECTION!No not really. It started with Kym having to HAVEN’T FOUND IT YET... BUTtake his 12-year-old brother to a party onHindmarsh Island from our holiday house A LOT CLOSER THAN MOSTin Goolwa. There was a flagon of Tolley’sMosel in the middle and loud music, andthe brand new state of the art stereo playernext to my bed didn’t survive the hosingdown towards the end.What’s the best way of teachingwine appreciation?Convince people that we all have the abilityto taste; what we lack is the vocabulary toshare the experience.What’s on the horizon for Shinglebackin 2012?2012 will see the launch of the newShingleback The Davey Estate Shirazand Cabernet Sauvignon packaging.The new look is both evolution andrevolution, capturing the last 12 years ofsuccess of the label, recognising 100 percent estate grown fruit and with the modernfeel and presence that will drive the brandforward for the next 12 years. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 57

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how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, weWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more will have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 59

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts Sauvignon and mature Felton Road Block 2 Chardonnay at under $50. Fine Victorian LANGTON’S WINE GRAYSONLINE Estates such as Mount Mary and Mount AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (FOURTH QUARTER 2011 REVIEW, Langi were well supported. Mature pinot Weekly Wine Auctions BY ROD GEDDES) enjoyed strong demand with Bass Phillip (held on Wednesdays) GraysOnline enjoyed a very positive last Reserve selling for near $300 and a Melbourne: February 29-March 7 quarter of 2011 with continued growth in sales reasonable volume of Bindi with the ‘01 Sydney: March 7-14 volume and value, including the appearance of original block selling for over $80. Melbourne: March 14-21 interesting new sources for wines. Increasing Sydney: March 21-28 demand from clients and an excellent supply Significant volumes of aged wines, drinking Melbourne: March 28-April 4 of older vintages from well known producers, perfectly now, are a current feature. These Sydney: April 4-11 locally and internationally, were both features. include Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz, Petaluma Melbourne: April 11-18 Rounding out the year, Greg Fitzsimmons, Coonawarra and Lindeman St George. Aged Sydney: April 18-25 a Sydney based fine wine sales specialist Hunter remains scarce with the small offering Melbourne: April 25-May 2 with 20 years wine experience, was appointed eagerly received. There’s good demand for Stock entry cut-off is 10 days prior to run the private cellar business. magnums with 10-15 years age such as 1996 Hardys Eileen Hardy McLaren Vale Shiraz. STERLING WINE Key points were strong French demand AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE and supply, as new listings from a distressed Demand for birth year vintages March 2-14 Sydney restaurant saw great results achieved, strengthened as the New Year approached (consignment deadline: February 27) especially for Champagne and interesting with 1982 and ‘72 reaching above March 30-April 11 red Bordeaux like 1982 Chateau Montrose. expectations. Demand is expected to be (consignment deadline: March 26) Champagne was a real feature with both the very solid throughout 2012 as people look April 27-May 9 1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame and for that perfect 30th or 40th present. (consignment deadline: April 23) the ‘82 Veuve Clicquot achieving over $200. This, combined with two special sales events Overall, Penfolds supply has been strong ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS offering 100 bottles in 100 hours of 2000 Dom as demand remains extremely high and Premium & Budget Auctions Pérignon Brut, saw huge growth in Grays’ favourites like the ready to drink 1996 Bin April 3, May 1 Champagne market leading into Christmas. 407 Cabernet are in good supply. Highlights (case lot auctions will be held regularly included 1991 Penfolds Grange at over between these sales) There’s a steady supply of bargains to be $520 and ’72 Penfolds Grange Hermitage had with customers picking up the 2000 at over $650. Typical of Grays’ importance GRAYSONLINE d`Arenberg Coppermine Road Cabernet to the wine community was a sizeable Daily wine auctions (featuring a range offering of Penfolds’ flagships in magnum, of red and white wines, and regional including 1997 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet- and country-specific sales) Shiraz and the choice 2002 Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz, 1998 Penfolds RWT Shiraz CRACKA WINES and1986 Penfolds St Henri Claret. Live wine auctions every day at 1pm and 8pm on weekdays and 8pm on “Vinous Exotica” also featured and weekends included rarities like 1984 Best`s Great Western Pinot Meunier and the 1959 Marc ViN AUCTIONS Bredif Vouvray. For more information, visit – FINE AND RARE WINES www.graysonline.com. All prices listed For Auction Dates go to include buyer’s premium. www.vinauctions.co.nz LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS (All dates are subject to change, (FOURTH QUARTER 2011 MARKET without notice) REPORT, BY ANDREW CAILLARD) At the start of 2011, a ripple of excitement permeated the Australian secondary fine wine market. The stratospheric auction prices in Hong Kong for First Growth Bordeaux, particularly Chateau Lafite Rothschild, and a resilient interest in ultra-fine Australian wine at home translated into strong bidding and firm prices in the first quarter. For a while it appeared the negative sentiment of the GFC was behind us, however a succession of natural disasters and economic shocks led to a more cautious pattern of buying and selling.60 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

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wine investment & collecting Second and third-quarter results were achieving upbeat prices. 1991 Rockford We predict a challenging but overallweaker than expected but by no means Basket Press Shiraz ($186), ‘95 Moss positive wine auction market in 2012.disastrous. A steady build up of repeat Wood ($156) and ‘02 Henschke Mount Ultra-fine Australian wines, with strongauction stock impacted on buyer interest and Edelstone ($147) illustrate the strength of vintage reputations, should continue to holdclearance rates but the continuing depletion the market. Hill of Grace slowed down, or improve in value. Rarities, particularlyof older Australian vintages kept prices although volume of demand during the Australian, will keep escalating in price.at record levels. Higher clearance rates, fourth quarter increased. Compared to rare European wines ofbetter stock flows and market confidence great interest, these wines are still hugelyreturned in the fourth quarter. Several The rare Australian auction market undervalued. There are more bottles of 1945impressive private cellars with exceptional continues to achieve astounding prices as Chateau Mouton Rothschild in existence thanparcels of ultra-fine Australian, Bordeaux and supply dwindles to extreme shortage. 1973 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A Cabernet Shiraz orBurgundy attracted plenty of buyer interest Moss Wood Cabernet ($1725), 1955 Wynns Lindemans Bin 3100 Shiraz. Bordeaux andand stronger price realisations. Coonawarra Estate Michael Hermitage Burgundy will follow the auction patterns in ($3743) and 1963 Mildara Peppermint Patty Hong Kong, New York and London. Already, While the Grange price evolution hasn’t Cabernet Sauvignon ($640) enjoyed very prices for top Bordeaux have fallen, but arekept pace with First Growth Bordeaux over strong results. 1925 Seppelt Para Liqueur still substantially higher than five years ago.the last five years, the growing Chinese Port ($635) and 1878 Seppelt Centenary Para Nonetheless, Grand Cru Classe Bordeauxinterest in Penfolds could drive sentiment Liqueur Port ($1818) were also highlights. will still attract solid interest and Grandforward in 2012. The release of 2008 Cru Burgundy will perform strongly. GrandPenfolds Bin 620 Cabernet Shiraz at $1000 During October, Langton’s achieved an Marque Champagne and top wines from thein November, 2011, may further prime Australian record price for 1982 Chateau Rhone, Italy, Spain, etc will also continue toprice realisations of Penfolds experimental Lafite Rothschild ($5751). Although signs attract solid demand. Mid-tiered Australianwines. The rare 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A of weakness in the Hong Kong market wine, around $25-50, will offer buyers greatCabernet Shiraz has been steadily creeping appeared during November, great vintages opportunity. For more information, visit www.up and Penfolds Bin 707 has also made still achieved excellent results. 1982 langtons.com.au. All prices above are perextraordinary gains. Rare Grange made a Chateau Petrus ($5819) and 1989 Chateau bottle, include buyer’s premium and are in $A.splash in November, with a pair of Max Petrus ($4600) performed strongly andSchubert-signed 1951 Penfolds Bin 1 Chateau Lafite Rothschild was on the ViN AUCTIONSGrange Hermitage and ‘56 Bin 53 Grange ascendancy leading up to Christmas; a (FOURTH QUARTER 2011 REPORT,Hermitage fetching $50,784 and $15,870 double magnum of 2006 achieved $9787 BY GILES HINE)respectively. In December, a unique and a bottle of 2000 attained $2416. The last quarter of 2011 was very busy withcollection of Grange Magnums (1971-2001) Interest in Domaine de La Romanee Conti some exceptional cellars liquidated. Overallattained a phenomenal $58,615. strengthened during the fourth quarter trade was good, without being great. Many as Chinese collectors looked towards the trends from the first three quarters were Langton’s “Exceptional” and best of Burgundy: The 2005 Marey Monge followed and New Zealand remains a buyers’“Outstanding” wines remained resilient Romanee-St-Vivant achieved $2358 andthroughout 2011 with many vintages an‘85 Romanee Conti fetched $12,650. Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Oddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps… Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids!62 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012 - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What

wine investment & collectingmarket for fine and rare wines. During this ‘99 La Mouline from Guigal achieving $470 looked like a lean market (not including thetime, a decision was made to rebrand Liquid and $600 respectively. Other sales were in-demand Penfolds Bin 707).Asset as part of a total brand overhaul. This arm led by Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with 2007 Leof the business is now known as ViN Auctions. Vieux Donjon ($190) and 2001 Pegau Cuvee Given the amount of heavy discounting inThe new system, which allows us to hold Reserve ($185) the most popular. the general retail wine trade, it’s not surprisingsimultaneous physical and online auctions, our premium auctions are performing andhas proved very successful and the aim for Penfolds Grange remains very popular with clearing better than the budget sales - with2012 is to hold one of these a month, along the 1990 reaching $540 at bottle, while the the exception of the mixed six packs ofwith regular boutique and clearance auctions. ‘96 and ‘97 were more in the $360 to $400 recent vintage budget wines. What became price bracket. There was also strong interest apparent over 2011 was avoidance by The star of the last period was a 1970 in 1993 Yalumba Signature Series Cabernet our buyers of wines in poor to very poorChateau Petrus which fetched nearly $2400, Sauvignon Shiraz which eventually sold at condition and their reluctance to bid abovealthough similar excellent condition bottles $420 and the ‘98 Penfolds Bin 707 at $225. the bottom end of the published guidesof the ‘82 and ‘88 failed to reach reserve. for wines with a few minor blemishes.At $2400, the ‘70 was a bargain - however At home, New Zealand wines proved The general rule now appears to be thatsubsequent auctions in Europe and Hong especially popular when they came in the only wines in perfect condition, regardlessKong have seen a marked reduction in larger formats, with a six-litre 2008 Herzog of age or historic standing, will attract betterprices achieved for Bordeaux collectables. Montepulciano selling close to $500. than average prices.That said, Bordeaux remain strong with Magnums were more readily available andgood clearance rates. 1982 remains the noteworthy lots were 1986 The Antipodean Table reds, particularly Australian shiraz,vintage everyone wants and there was ($175); ‘95, ‘97, ‘98 and ‘99 Ata Rangi Pinot remain our buyer’s favourite purchase,strong bidding for Chateau Certan de May Noir ($125-$135), 2002 Te Mata Coleraine although the lean years of lack of bidding($350) and Chateau la Lagune ($160). Other ($140) and ‘94 and ‘97 Stonyridge Larose on Aussie cabernets appears to be over.well supported Bordeaux were the ’89 and ($260 and $170 respectively). All prices Table whites still need to be fresh and2002 Chateau Pichon Longueville and the ’85 quoted include commission and GST. young to attract buyers and the fortifiedand ’86 Chateau Lagrange. A 1983 Chateau market showed signs of slowing down inPalmer achieved $380 while a six-litre 2005 ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS 2011. Penfolds Bin 707 is now definitelyChateau Leoville Barton sold for $1860. (DECEMBER, 2011, AUCTION REPORT/ Australia’s flagship cabernet. Anecdotally, END OF YEAR REVIEW, it’s been suggested the demand has come Burgundy sales remained sluggish. The BY GRAHAM WRIGHT) from the Asian market. As a market raisedmost notable result was three bottles of 1989 Oddbins’ December sale continued a trend on cabernet-based Bordeaux classedJoseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru making felt by most of the retail trade through growths, it makes sense they’d target$440. Part of the issue here remains the 2011, with buyers very protective of their this variety over the locally popular shiraz.paucity of stock offered to us but, even so, hard earned income. Clearances were soft Within the Hong Kong auction world, shirazselling Burgundy, particularly white Burgundy, over the last quarter as were prices paid has still yet to have an impact, as evenisn’t easy. Rhone sales remain strong and for wines in the secondary market. Supply, classic Burgundy struggles to keep up withCote Rotie went especially well with ‘95 and however, still remained good in what the Bordeaux First Growth juggernaut. AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 63

wine investment & collecting2011 was generally a good year for with no undue fluctuations, although a attractive prices. Over these two months,Oddbins. Clearances overall were a little bit of bidding restraint might keep prices an increasing number of premium wineriesbelow average and prices paid on average relatively stable. The challenges will be and distributors used Cracka Wines to sellwell within the published guides. Despite sourcing good quality/condition stock and non-current vintages of premium stocks,this, price guides did rise approximately 3-4 locating more historic stock; while trying often at vastly discounted prices. Sales ofper cent in 2011. to excite the sub-$20 market. For more aged Bordeaux have been particularly strong information, visit www.oddbins.com.au. with Chateau de Lagarde and Chateau Baron At Oddbins’ December sale, the large Fillon, both from 2005, attracting manycollection of Champagne was a big hit and CRACKA WINES wine collectors looking to branch out intothere was a good clearance of red Burgundy. (JANUARY, 2012, REPORT, French wines. French sparkling wines haveOn the Australian front, Devil’s Lair cabernet BY ANGUS HUGHSON) also attracted significant bidding interestblends as well as Greenock Creek Alices, It’s close to 18 months since Cracka first with Dom Perignon, Moet & Chandon BrutApricot, Corner Stone and Seven Acre reds offered wines with a revolutionary reverse Imperial and the Cruse Blanc de Blancsall cleared well. Demand for Roennfeldt auction platform, where the price starts at especially popular.Road premiums remains soft. Fox Creek historic highs before falling until all stocksReserves sold well as did Meshach from are sold. Since launching, Cracka has Premium home-grown brands arethe mid ‘90s, Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock sold over 20,000 cases from the likes of increasingly using Cracka Wines’ auctions(especially the ’99), Rockford Basket Press Penfolds Grange, Clarendon Hills Astralis to attract consumer interest online forfrom the ‘90s and early 2000’s and ’97 and Henschke Hill of Grace, through to wines often with an extra year or two ofWynns Michael. Shiraz is still the wine of more everyday drinking styles. bottle age. From Western Australia we’rethe moment although Jacob’s Creek, older regularly offering highly rated wines fromOrlando St Hugo Cabernet, Voyager Estate While sales and volume growth have Howard Park, Peccavi, Fonty’s Pool andCabernet Merlot and ’86 Wynns Coonawarra averaged close to 20 per cent per month Merops - wines which astute bidders canCabernet cleared well. since launch, December, 2011, and January, get at 50 per cent of regular retail or less. 40 2012, in particular saw enormous growth in cases of the superb cellar release of 2008 With the Penfolds premiums, Bin 389 Cracka Wine Auctions. Volumes increased Elmslie River View Tasmania Riesling sold(especially ‘96 and ’98) sold well, as did ’97 by 36 per cent and gross sales by 41 in a single auction illustrating the strongBin 407. All Bin 707’s cleared and buyers per cent over the previous two months, interest in riesling from our database. Atook up the large offering of Block 42. representing a larger number of bidders range of other perfectly stored vintageGrange buyers went after good condition using the site to purchase wines and greater gems also hit the market with many more tovintages from the ‘80s and ‘90s. The volumes of premium sales. We’ve also been be listed soon, all of which sold at attractiveImperfect section was relatively quiet. gratified to see that for a number of quality prices for vendors. These included, withHenschke Abbotts Prayer and Mount offerings, customers have bought over a no buyer fees charged, 1991 HenschkeEdelstone - as well as Hill of Grace from hundred cases of a single wine during a 20 Hill of Grace ($424), 2002 Petaluma‘88, ‘90 and ’98 - all had good clearances. minute auction with savvy, early bidders Coonawarra ($48), 2001 d’Arenberg Dead purchasing some excellent wines at very Arm Shiraz ($56), 2004 Penfolds Bin 389 My expectations for 2012 are generallyquite positive. I suspect it’ll be a solid year64 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

wine investment & collecting($57) and ‘04 Henschke Keyneton blend China story is as big as it gets. As for the price points for better percentage returns;($39). While Cracka auctions have, to date, latter, the need to plan on emptying our don’t buy white; don’t buy new brands orlargely involved wines with reserves - often wine cellars in preparation for the end of new styles (stick with cabernet and shiraz);close to 50 per cent of the RRP - we’re the world is exaggerated! presentation is valuable and don’t hold toonow seeing a greater number of vendors long - not all wine improves with age.choosing the unreserved auctions where Statistics on wine consumption indicatethey can not only clear significant volumes Australia is drinking more than ever. Likely In my opinion, the only real investmentof quality wine but regularly achieve it’s true, but it’s also likely we’ve become is Chateau d’Yquem and top Port housesattractive pricing. Savvy bidders are able wine hoarders. How many homes now - buy the best vintages and price doesn’tto pick up bargains on a daily basis, with all have refrigerated/climate controlled wine matter. Locally, do your research, but jumpwines having been passed by our panel and storage? Another intrigue is the volume of into discounted 2010 reds, which is likelycoming with a “money back guarantee”. stock being double sold. Crazy discounted to be a great vintage. Next time you’re retail prices offered by the big two mega- looking for wine for personal consumption, The warmer weather has seen customers chains are often way below wholesale aim for severe label damage. Damagedtending towards pinot noir, riesling, prices offered to smaller independents. The labels with original fill levels have nosauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Sauvignon biggest buyers from the big guys are the bearing on the quality of the wine in theblanc is by far the most popular varietal with little guys who go back to their store and re- bottle. Many wine collectors are using highHoneymoon Bay, Fush n Chups and Seaside sell the discounted wine for a modest profit. cellar humidity settings and causing labelselling strongly. For pinot noir, strong damage. A recent example at Sterling wasofferings include 2010 Fonty’s Pool, ‘08 What about the “next big thing” vintages? a Grange collector who had a wet, humidQuails Run and ‘09 Ant Moore Terroir. For The back vintage market is driven by the cellar and every label was damaged, somemore information, visit www.crackawines. easy to package need for golden numbers. severely. These bottles struggled and soldcom.au. All prices listed are per bottle with We all know wines from ‘96 and ‘98 sell for very poorly. In the end, we radically droppedno buyers’ premium applicable. more than equal wines from the perceived reserves to quit and sale prices were “lesser” vintages like ‘97 and ‘99. It looks down by up to 33 per cent - just becauseSTERLING WINE like 2006 has been destined for greatness the labels were ugly! Finally, rememberAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE as a golden number. The big question to to plan ahead if you’re looking for “birth(JANUARY, 2012, REPORT, consider is, will 2008 and/or 2010 be seen vintage” wines as birthday gifts. The “big”BY LYNTON BARBER) as “special”? My early impressions are to birthdays for 2012 will struggle for goodThe new year has a focus on Olympics, back 2010. About this time of the year the bottles: 1942, ‘52 and ‘62 are rarer thandragons and the end of the world. From wine investment story gets a dust down. hen’s teeth and twice as valuable. Whilethe Australian perspective, the wine world Money can be made buying and selling the market for ‘72, ‘82 and ‘92 is morerelies on the Euro zones being primed wine - it’s not easy but more fun than relaxed, expect to pay a premium of 20-50by sport to boost confidence and the buying/selling coins and stamps. Some per cent against the same wines purchasedconsumption of Australian premiums; of the critical factors to keep in mind are: last or next year. For more information,with 2012 “The Year of the Dragon”, the buy the right vintages at the right price; visit www.sterlingwine.com.au. consider storage costs; aim for lower/mid- TURN YOUR GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanLIQUID ASSET anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing, INTO CASH warehousing, logistic and payment - making it the most effective but also the easiest retail channel. Call Kieran Gallagher on 02 9741 9600 or email [email protected] March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 65

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2003 $210 1995 $85 1998 $480  2000 $120  1989 $360 2001 $85 WINES 2004 $350 1996 $130 1999 $380  2001 $120  1990 $580 2002 $140 2005 $300 1997 $90 2001 $360 2002 $90 1991 $480 2003 $100 BASS PHILLIP 2006 $250  1998 $125 2002 $440 2003 $95 1992 $360  2004 $95Premium Pinot Noir 1999 $110 2004 $380 2004 $90 1993 $350  2005 $95 2000 $110 2005 $350 2005 $90 1994 $380 2006 $95 1990 $80 CLONAKILLA 2001 $110  2006 $330 2006 $65 1995 $360  2007 $100 1991 $100 Shiraz Viognier 2002 $140 2007 $75 1996 $500 2008 $95 1992 $120 1990 $65 2004 $190 2008 $85 1997 $360 1993 $100 1993 $65 2005 $120  1998 $580 THREE RIVERS/ 1994 $120 1994 $85 2006 $120 Armagh Shiraz MOUNT MARY 1999 $400 Chris Ringland 1995 $95 1995 $65 2007 Not Released 1990 $220 Quintet 2000 $420 Wines Shiraz 1996 $115 1996 $100 2008 $140  1991 $180 2001 $370 1990 $750  1997 $180 1997 $130 1992 $120 1990 $250 2002 $450 1991 $700 1998 $110 1998 $150 Meshach 1993 $110 1991 $120 2003 $400 1992 $600  1999 $140 1999 $55 1990 $110 1994 $130 1992 $110 2004 $480 1993 $650  2000 $110 2000 $90 1991 $85 1995 $130 1993 $130 2005 $480 1994 $650 2001 $180  2001 $130 1992 $80 1996 $160 1994 $120 1995 $450  2002 $145 2002 $130  1993 $75 1997 $150 1995 $100 Bin 707 1996 $710  2003 $110 2003 $110 1994 $90 1998 $220 1996 $160 1980 $160  1997 Not Released 2004 $110  2004 $120 1995 $85 1999 $130 1997 $110 1981 Not Released 1998 $850  2005 $80 2005 $120 1996 $100 2000 $120 1998 $160  1982 $150 1999 $600 2007 $120  2006 $100 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 1999 $120 1983 $150 2000 $450 2008 $80  2007 $150 1998 $130 2002 $200 2000 $120  1984 $180  2001 $850 2009 $140 2008 $90  1999 $85 2004 $145 2001 $110  1985 $170  2002 $800 2009 $100 2000 $70 2005 $120 2002 $130 1986 $210 2003 $500 BINDI 2001 $110 2006 $140  2003 $110  1987 $150  Block 5 Pinot Noir Cabernet Merlot 2002 $95 2007 $95 2004 $110  1988 $160 Shiraz 1997 $80 1990 $95 2003 $65 2005 $110  1989 $180  1990 $145 1998 $95 1991 $100 2004 $75 2006 $110  1990 $220 1991 $130 1999 Not Released 1992 $80 2005 $70 2007 $75 1991 $200  1992 $80 2000 $150 1993 $85 GREENOCK CREEK 2008 $95 1992 $170  1993 $90 2001 $120 1994 $90 1993 $180  1994 $160 2002 $110 1995 $95 Roennfeldt Rd Chardonnay Bin 95 Grange 1994 $180 1995 $95  2003 $85 1996 $100 Shiraz Art Series 1951 $45000 1995 Not Released 1996 $160  2004 $140 1997 $90 1952 $17000 1996 $200 1997 $70 2005 $120 1998 $95 1995 $370 1990 $60 1953 $14000  1997 $180  1998 $160 2006 $110 1999 $95 1996 $300 1991 $60  1954 $10000 1998 $250  1999 $90 2007 $110 2000 $85 1997 $190 1992 $75 1955 $3200  1999 $190  2000 $90 2008 $110 2001 $80 1998 $350 1993 $65 1956 $13000  2000 Not Released 2001 $95 2009 $90 2002 Not Released 1999 $180 1994 $85 1957 $11000 2001 $190  2002 $150 2003 $75 2000 $220 1995 $100  1958 $4800 2002 $180 2003 $80 BROKENWOOD 2004 $70 2001 $240 1996 $65 1959 $2000 2003 Not Released 2004 $150 Graveyard Shiraz 2002 $320  1997 $75  1960 $1400 2004 $190 2005 $130 1990 $90 ELDERTON 2003 $200 1998 $70 1961 $1600  2005 $180  2006 $130 1991 $100 Command Shiraz 2004 $280  1999 $75  1962 $1600  2006 $180  2008 $140 1992 Not Released 1990 $120 2005 $250 2000 $75 1963 $1200  2007 $160 1993 $75 1991 Not Released 2001 $80  1964 $1000 2008 $190 1994 $80 1992 $100  Hill of Grace 2002 $75  1965 $500 1995 $70 1993 $65 1980 $250 2003 $90  1966 $600 Bin 60A Para Liqueur 1996 $95 1994 $95 1981 $230 2004 $100 1967 $700 1962 $4000  1878 $1600 1997 $75 1995 $75 1982 $220  2005 $75 1968 $550 2004 $460 1879 $1200 1998 $110 1996 $95 1983 $220  2006 $70 1969 $550 1880 $800 1999 $90 1997 $80 1984 $210 2007 $85  1970 $400 Basket Press 1881 $800 2000 $95 1998 $90 1985 $250 1971 $750  Shiraz 1887 $800 2001 $80 1999 $60 1986 $340 MOSS WOOD 1972 $400  1893 $1000 2002 $75 2000 $65  1987 $210 Cab Sauv 1973 $400  1990 $150 1899 $1000 2003 $80 2001 $65  1988 $310 1974 $400 1991 $140 1901 $650 2004 $80 2002 $90 1989 $240 1990 $130 1975 $400 1992 $95 1908 $550 2005 $85 2003 $70 1990 $460 1991 $160 1976 $600 1993 $75 1910 $500 2006 $100 2004 $70  1991 $400 1992 $120 1977 $400 1994 $90 1922 $450 2007 $90 2005 $65 1992 $350 1993 $100 1978 $400 1995 $65  1925 $700 2006 $65  1993 $300 1994 $100  1979 $380 1996 $140 1927 $280 CLARENDON HILLS 1994 $340 1995 $120  1980 $360 1997 $95 1930 $240 Astralis Shiraz 1995 $340 1996 $120  1981 $390 1998 $190 1933 $180  GIACONDA 1996 $460  1997 $100 1982 $370 1999 $95 1939 $110  1994 $230 Chardonnay 1997 $320 1998 $150 1983 $410 2000 $80 1944 $90 1995 $200  1990 $110  1999 $140 1984 $360 1947 $80 1996 $300 1991 $65  1985 $400 1951 $300 1997 $250 1992 $85 1986 $550 1998 $320 1993 $90 1987 $350 1999 $260 1994 $100 1988 $350 2000 $270 2001 $290 2002 $33066 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions IMPORTED Chateau Latour 2000 $400 Auction WINES 1990 $1250 2001 $380 1991 $600 2002 $500 World’s bestMoet et Chandon 1992 $280 2003 $600 wine prices Cuvee Dom 1993 $400  2004 $400 Perignon 1994 $360 2005 $950 Do you want the real wine price story? 1995 $700  2006 Not Released Do you want to check trends?1973 $360 1996 $1100 2007 $4501975 $400 1997 $360 Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange1976 $330 1998 $520 E. Guigal La Turque has the world’s best Wine Auction sale1978 $250 1999 $600 Hermitage1980 $220 2000 $1800 price database.1982 $300  2001 $700 1990 $8001983 $180 2002 $750 1991 $480 Every bottle sold over the past1985 $220  2003 $1500 1992 $270 ten years, perfectly searchable1988 $260 2004 $600 1993 $2401990 $420  2005 $1350 1994 $300 and cross referenced.1992 $240 2006 Not Released 1995 $5001993 $220 2007 $750 1996 $260 And it’s Free! Just go to the Web site.1995 $220 1997 $320 Sterling Wine Auctions, specialists since1996 $290 Chateau Petrus 1998 $700 1992, offering full Live Online E-trading1998 $220  1990 $4800 1999 $5601999 $200 1991 Not Released 2000 $420 to clients all over the world and Old2000 $180  1992 $1300 2001 $520 Fashioned personal service.2002 $200 1993 $1000 2002 $450 1994 $1800 2003 $850 FREE Auction Catalogues Louis Roederer 1995 $1900 2004 $350 and FREE Bidder Registration. Cristal 1996 $1400 2005 $800 1997 $1000 Gaja Barbaresco Phone Lynton for a chat1990 $550  1998 $3500 1990 $330 on 08 9388 99551993 $220 1999 $1250 1991 $210 or 0418 949 837,1994 $340 2000 $5000 1992 $260 or log on1995 $300 2001 $2300 1993 $2101996 $440 2002 $2000 1994 $300 www.sterlingwine.com.au1997 $240 2003 $3000 1995 $5501999 $340 2004 $2000 1996 $300 STERLING2000 $340 2005 $3700 1997 $2602002 $320 2006 $2000 1998 $310 Wine Auctions & ExchangeChateau Mouton 2007 $1400 1999 $220 2000 $310 Rothschild Domaine 2001 $250 1990 $440 de la Romanee 2002 Not Released1991 $280 Conti La Tache 2003 Not Released1992 $230 1990 $6600 2004 $3101993 $350 1991 $1900 2005 $3201994 $340  1992 $12501995 $520 1993 $1800 Tenuta1996 $610 1994 $1500 Dell’Ornellaia1997 $280 1995 $22001998 $400  1996 $1800 Ornellaia1999 $600 1997 $1900 1991 $3202000 $1150 1998 $2200 1992 $1052001 $450 1999 $5600 1993 $1102002 $480 2000 $1500 1994 $1302003 $580 2001 $2000 1995 $1302004 $500 2002 $2800 1996 $1802005 $700 2003 $2800 1997 $3402006 $700 2004 $2000  1998 $3002007 $600 2005 $3800  1999 $240 2006 $1500 2000 $140 2007 Not Released 2001 $290 2008 $2400 2002 $240 Domaine Armand 2003 $100 2004 $150 Rousseau 2005 $150 Chambertin 2006 $170 Clos de Beze Vega Sicilia Unico 1990 $950 1991 $200 Gran Reserva 1992 $220 1990 $560 1993 $380 1991 $420 1994 $180 1994 $550 1995 $560 1995 $300 1996 $600 1996 $360 1997 $280 1998 $420 1998 $400 2003 $300 1999 $800 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 67

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIAGRAND MANSION UP MARKETREFURBISHED JAPANESE FOODTHE historic WorldMark Resort Ballarat offers REGIONAL Victoria has a top-notch Japanesea mix of new and old, where guests can restaurant in Asahi in Ballarat. Asahi – thesample a unique heritage experience without name means rising sun – was the first eateryhaving to sacrifice modern conveniences. to offer sushi and sashimi in the area and itsThe grand mansion was built in 1878 menu features several Japanese delicaciesand its Federation and Victorian-inspired as well as catering for vegetarians. The menuarchitecture has earned the property a features dishes like Asahi carpaccio (layersheritage listing. Set on 22ha, it has been of salmon sashimi and avocado with sweetoperating as the WorldMark Resort Ballarat miso and mayonnaise) for $18 and tuna tatakisince 2003 and recently underwent a $1.3 (thin pieces of tuna with freshly grated gingermillion refurbishment from owners Wyndham and sesame seeds in citrus soy dressing)Vacation Resorts Asia Pacific. Located just for $13. For meat-eaters there are the likes cottage, which has been completelyover an hour’s drive north-west of Melbourne, of Yakiniku eye fillet beef and onion cooked refurbished and resurrected as the cafeBallarat was once the regional city at the with a special barbecue sauce and served and store. The cafe features a menu offorefront of the 1850s Victorian gold rush and with steamed rice ($31) as well as a range what Wolf-Tasker describes as “simpleis now a major tourist destination attracting 2.2 of terriyaki options.There is also a good wine seasonal food, sourced locally wherevermillion visitors every year to Sovereign Hill as list featuring names including Jansz, Vasse possible” as well as a selection of takewell as the many local wineries. The building Felix, Lethbridge and Red Hill Estate. Asahi home “heat and eat” dishes, picnic andwas used as the St Joseph’s Boys Home in Japanese Restaurant is open Wednesday- pantry provisions. Wines made by localthe early 1900s and features manicured lawns Saturday 6pm-9pm and is at 5-7 Humffray St, vignerons and specially labelled for thewith picturesque gardens and a tree-lined Ballarat. (03) 5338 7500. www.asahi.net.au. new cafe are available by the bottle andlake for boating and fishing. The heritage glass, while an on-site kitchen garden willof the property was maintained throughout DAYLESFORD VENTURE supplement the kitchen’s needs with freshthe renovations and the inclusion of new herbs, salad leaves, vegetables and fruit.LCD televisions and an upgraded kitchen, ICONIC Victorian chef and restaurateur Wolf-Tasker said the picturesque locationincluding stone bench tops and stainless Alla Wolf-Tasker has opened a new holds a special place in her family’ssteel appliances has added a modern twist. Daylesford venture; a garden cafe and hearts having spent a lot of time in the“It has been with great affection that this gourmet store in the Wombat Hill Botanical area. Established in the 1860s by Baronbeautiful heritage building has been lovingly Gardens. Situated just above the village of Ferdinand Von Mueller, who was alsorefurbished to retain its original charm,” says Daylesford and Wolf-Tasker’s acclaimed responsible for Melbourne’s Royal BotanicMarion Smart of Wyndham Vacation Resorts. The Lake House restaurant, the new Gardens, the 10.4ha Wombat Hill BotanicFor details see www.holidaysbywyndham. Wombat Hill House operation is located Gardens are regarded as one of Victoria’scom.au or call 1800 737 757. in what was an original 1940s caretaker finest gardens. The offerings are varied with guests invited to enjoy a glass of wine with a couple of slices of pizza, some local charcuterie with a beer or cider, or something sweet and a glass of prosecco. The menu features a range of sandwiches and baguettes, up-market pies, pasties and pizzas, along with salads and freshly baked sweet treats. Wombat Hill House is accessed via Central Spring Rd and is open on Thursdays and Mondays from 9am-4pm and until 8pm on Friday, Saturday and Sunday; phone (03) 4373 0099. www.wombathillhouse.com.au.68 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

travelbriefsTWIGS BRANCHES OUT food and wine in a relaxed atmosphere. banquets. Lydiard Wine Bar is at 15 Lydiard The wine bar specialises in vinous offerings St, Ballarat North. It is open Tuesday-Twigs on High in the lovely little town of from the Ballarat region as well as the cool- Saturday from 5pm. Phone (03) 5327 2787.Trentham is a good base from which to climate Pyrenees. The menu ranges from www.lydiardwinebar.com.au.explore the many gourmet delights of small bites like wild mushroom croquettesDaylesford, Hepburn Springs, Kyneton and ($4); and betel leaves with ground fish, MAJOR MILESTONEthe Macedon Ranges. Small and chic, Twigs watermelon, sugar, salt and salmon roefeatures smart technology like the Ecofire and ($6.50) to more substantial offerings like HEATHCOTE Winery recently celebratedsumptuous sound systems but the decor is zucchini flowers filled with pork, prawn, its 30th anniversary, a major milestone in aidiosyncratic and welcoming. Visitors are ginger and coriander ($21) and crisp rice relatively new region. Heathcote Winery wasgreeted with a complimentary hamper of cakes with crab, chicken, chilli jam and one of the first commercial wineries (withgourmet goodies from the local region. From cashew nuts ($19). Main courses may vines planted in 1978 and the first winestea, coffee, milk, crackers, shortbread and include grilled red curry chicken, toasted released in 1981) in what is now seen aslocal mineral water to condiments, muesli,nuts, salsa, fudge and yogurt treats. A luxury coconut and ginger, and barramundi fillet one of Australia’s best shiraz regions, andcountry cottage with just two bedrooms, with tamarind and coconut caramel (both was also one of the first to plant viognier inTwigs sleeps up to four people in a master $34) with Jones’s Thai experience at Nahm this country. The cellar is uniquely positionedqueen bedroom and a twin guest room, shining through while the serious wine list in the main street of Heathcote in a restoredmaking it ideal for a couple, or a family with highlights Victorian labels like PachaMama, produce store built by Thomas Craven intwo children. The decor includes stylish soft Quartz Hill, Jamsheed and Tomboy Hill. As 1854 to cater for the huge influx of goldfurnishings, designer light fittings, curios and well as Best’s, Sally’s Paddock and Mitchell miners seeking their fortune. There is a fullyobjéts d'art, American designer wallpapers, Harris. Jones also hosts regular Thai functioning winery directly behind the cellarLaura Ashley linen and comfy lounges in a door, specialising in shiraz and viognier.blend of rural Australian and French provincialstyle. A sundeck at the rear of the property Adjacent to the cellar door is an arthas a day bed and al fresco dining setting, gallery featuring exhibitions by regionalwhile a cobble-stoned courtyard features artists, while Craven’s Cafe provides luncha gazebo. Twigs offers a fully equipped from Friday to Sunday featuring seasonalkitchen stocked with quality utensils and menus matched to Heathcote Winerycookware with a slow-combustion country wines. The cellar door is open seven dayscooker that is complemented by a modern 10am-5pm and meals are served Friday-oven and cooktop, microwave, toaster, and Sunday. Heathcote Winery is at 185 High St,even a cheese grater. Alternatively, guests Heathcote. Phone (03) 5433 2595.can dine at the Cosmo restaurant down the www.heathcotewinery.com.au.road, or visit local wineries including Bindi,Hanging Rock, Curly Flat, Granite Hills and Above: Heathcote Winery.Cope-Williams. Two nights at Twigs on High Below: Wombat Hill House cafe.start from $550. You’ll find it at 38 High St, Opposite page: WorldMark Resort.Trentham. Book on (03) 5348 4422 or seewww.twigsonline.com.au.WELCOME ADDITIONTHE Lydiard Wine Bar is a welcomeaddition to Ballarat’s dining scene, offeringa selection of local wines and shared placesin a refurbished former bank building. Runby local Damien Jones, who worked inLondon at Bibendum and Nahm, as wellas in Sydney, Hong Kong and Melbourne,before returning home, it aims to offer great March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 69

87 TASTED45 AWARDEDCENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIAA smaller than usual tasting from Victoria, with the Tahbilk Nagambie Lakesimpossible wet 2011 vintage impacting on winemaking Central Victoria Viognierdecisions. However, our aim is to show you what’s 2011 HHH1/2good, not what didn’t make the cut so it is pleasing to Intense tropical and apricotrecommend some very fine wines across a number aromas. Hot and simple in theof categories. In the whites, not surprisingly, the mouth with grapefruit flavoursmarsanne’s performed well along with some very nice and moderate acidity. $19.50riesling. In the reds category the judges really liked thevarietal expression of the merlots and cabernets. Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2011 HHH1/2 Very austere, super tight, acid-driven wine with lovely floral notes. Not for drinking now but great cellaring potential. 5+ $34SPARKLING Leydens Vale Methode A T Richardson Wines Seppelt Jaluka Drumborg Traditionelle Pyrenees Chockstone Grampians Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/29 TASTED Sparkling NV HHH1/2 Riesling 2010 HHHHH An aperitif style with minerally,4 AWARDED Aromas of orange blossom Wonderful, light stonefruit, lime aromas and delicious, and citrus fruits with similar floral and quince-like toasty, honeyed, lime flavours.The judges found these to be characters on the crisp, dry aromas with attractive, aged Will age well. $27generally broader style sparklings palate. Good aperitif style. $16 characters. Grippy lime/apricot Harcourt Valley Vineyardsshowing forward development flavours with residual sugar Bendigo Riesling 2011 HHHin drink now styles rather than Blue Pyrenees Methode sweetness balanced by the Bright, concentrated sweet fruitbeing wines for ageing. Traditionelle Pyrenees crisp acidity. $20 with sherbet notes on the nose Vintage Brut 2008 HHH and on the elegant palate. $20Mount Avoca Jack Barry Lemony aromas - hint of yeastPyrenees Victoria Sparkling and nice stonefruits flavours Tahbilk Nagambie LakesShiraz 2008 HHHH with good acid backbone. $24 Central Victoria MarsanneLovely, creamy and complex 2005 HHHH1/2earthy shiraz fruit here. It’s DRY WHITE Delicious nose - all toasty,a mature wine yet still has VARIETALS honeyed and buttery. Thefreshness. Balanced palate & BLENDS medium bodied palate has awith a drying finish. $29 silky mouthfeel and flavours like 25 TASTED hot buttered toast with good 11 AWARDED varietal concentration. $23 The highlights here were the Best’s Great Western rieslings and the marsanne. Riesling 2011 HHH The judges expected more Fresh, lifted, citrus/almond from the chardonnays in this blossom nose and excellent, small line-up. A promising soft, lime flavours with tight viognier shows potential. acidity. $22Grampians Estate Kimbarra Wines Tahbilk Nagambie LakesRutherford Grampians Great Western Central Victoria MarsanneSparkling Shiraz Riesling 2010 HHHH 2011 HHH2008 HHH1/2 Nice minerally development Light floral aromas andRich, smoky, dried fruit bouquet obvious on the nose. Bright, attractive varietal flavours withand red berry/mint flavours youthful palate, good fruit salad lovely palate structure and lightwith grippy tannins on a sweet, flavour concentration with acid. $16.45medium-bodied palate. $35 balancing acidity. $2770 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

regional tastingTahbilk Nagambie Lakes Blue PyreneesCentral Victoria Riesling Pyrenees Cabernet2011 HHH Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2Interesting lemon pie nose Savory and chocolaty on the noseand crisp acid palate with with a hint of mint and attractive,nectarine/pear flavours. earthy, meaty palate. Still veryNeeds food! $16.45 young - needs time. $20Leydens Vale Tahbilk Nagambie LakesChardonnay 2008 HHH Central Victoria CabernetToast and almonds on the Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2nose and quite a lean but Jubey, sweet fruit bouquet withinteresting palate with crisp some cough syrup-like elementsacid spine. $11.95 and attractive, savoury, red currant flavours. $23ROSÉ Passing Clouds Macedon Ranges1 TASTED Pinot Noir 2008 HHH1 AWARDED Chocolaty, cherry aromas and appealing, savoury flavours onBlue Pyrenees Pyrenees the medium-bodied palate. $27Rosé 2011 HHH1/2Lovely, bright aromas of sweetstrawberries and rose petals.Good level of sweetness on thepalate with clean acidity. $18OTHER REDVARIETALS& BLENDS16 TASTED11 AWARDED“The cabernets and merlots Best’s Great Western Big, smooth,were surprisingly good,” said one Cabernet Sauvignon well rounded –judge. “Overall very nice varietal 2010 HHH and judged topexpression here which you can Distinct cassis/cabernet of its class.see in the best,” they confirmed. fruit nose and lean, elegant,An outstanding Central Victorian blackberry varietal palate. $25 Linking Australia with all coasts of Northwine showed the excellence of Mount Avoca Pyrenees and South America; the Caribbean,Northernthe Heathcote region. Merlot 2009 HHH Eu rope and the Mediterranean; Asia; India; Sweet, plum-like fruit with Pakistan; New Zealand and the Pacific Islands.Downing Estate some chocolate and eucalyptHeathcote Cabernet elements, dusty tannins and No matter what.Sauvignon 2007 HHHHH good acid. $29Syrupy, thick wine with dark, Blue Pyrenees Pyreneesbrooding, licorice aromas Merlot 2010 HHHshowing hints of cedar and Simple nose of sweetspices. Lovely, rich, chocolaty berries and cherries. Goodoaky palate with good, well- concentration of fruit flavoursbalanced tannins and sweet with solid tannins. $20fruit concentration. $39Chalmer Wines Blue Pyrenees EstateMontevecchio Pyrenees Cabernet MerlotRosso Heathcote Red Shiraz 2009 HHH2011 HHH1/2 Big, powerful wine thatJuicy, sweet, cherry/berry needs food. It’s all savoury,aromas and bright, light palate dark fruit, good oak andwith good fruit concentration crunchy tannins. $32and searing acid spine. $21.50 Mount Avoca Trioss Red Merlot Shiraz Cabernet 2009 HHH www.hamburgsud-line.com Dark and savoury on the nose and pleasant, dark fruit flavours with soft tannins. $12 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 71

CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIAMount Avoca Balgownie Estate Black Downing Estate Heathcote Seppelt St PetersPyrenees Cabernet Label Bendigo Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHHH Grampians ShirazSauvignon 2009 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2 A well-structured wine that’s 2008 HHH1/2Brooding, tarry, dark fruit aromas Quite a porty, meaty nose with a intense but not restrained with Vibrant wine with meaty, licoriceand a very vibrant, grippy, tannic dash of spice leading on to a hot, sweet dark fruits, attractive aromas and full-bodied palatepalate. 3-5 $25 full-bodied palate that’s thick and briary notes and some grainy with lots of tannins overpowering sweet in the mouth and showing tannins. $39 red fruit flavours. $70 good use of oak. 5+ $24 Best’s Bin No 1 Mount Langhi GhiranSHIRAZ BLENDS Great Western Shiraz Cliff Edge Grampians Leydens Vale Pyrenees 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHH1/23 TASTED Shiraz 2010 HHHH Very big, ripe, chocolaty nose Big, oaky and ripe; nice Youthful, savoury aromas and and spicy, peppery palate that’s roast meat-like savouriness3 AWARDED good generosity and sweetness soft in the mouth with good integrated with rich red fruits of ripe fruit flavours layered weight and length. $25 and fine elegant tannins. $30Tallis The Silent Showman with soft tannins and savoury M. Chapoutier TournonCentral Victoria Shiraz elements. Easy drinking. $12 Mathilda HeathcoteViognier 2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHResinous/herbal aromas and M. Chapoutier Domaine Black cherries and licorice on thegood intensity and expression Tournon Landsborough nose. Lots of red fruit flavoursof sweet fruit on the palate Valley Pyrenees Shiraz with some charry oak. $14.90with its drying tannins. $25 2009 HHHH Harcourt Valley VineyardsDomaine Terlato and Meaty, chocolaty nose Sightings Central VictoriaChapoutier Victoria Shiraz underscored by some raisined Shiraz 2010 HHHViognier 2008 HHH fruit and an attractive, full- Easy drinking style with loadsRich, sweet, juicy fruit - quite bodied, savoury/licorice palate. of red fruits and dusty tanninsspicy with firm tannins and Offers cellaring potential. with spicy notes. $20bright, crunchy acidity. $17.90 Balgownie Estate BendigoPassing Clouds Graeme’s 5+ $34.90 Shiraz 2009 HHHBlend Bendigo Shiraz Chocolaty oak dominates theCabernet 2006 HHH Seppelt Chalambar Great nose and dark spicy flavoursEarthy, herbal nose with Western Shiraz 2008 HHHH define the palate. $40minty, menthol edge and very Lovely, warm, sweet, licoricemodern, elegant palate. $29 aromas with a thick, hot and generous palate exhibiting plenty of texture with soft, rich, fruit flavours. $27SHIRAZ Mount Langhi Ghiran Billi Billi Grampians33 TASTED Shiraz 2008 HHH Red currants and licorice aromas15 AWARDED“There were two distinct and spicy fruit palate with grippystyles here,” noted one judge. tannins. 3-5 $18“The southern Rhone-like,easy drinking styles and the Kimbarra Wines Great Blue Pyrenees Reserveextracted, bigger flavoured ones Western Shiraz 2008 HHHH Best’s Bin No 0 Pyrenees Shiraz 2008 HHHthat have been built for further Mulberry and blackcurrant-like Great Western Shiraz Generous and juicy with greatageing.” The younger wines varietal fruit with some edgy 2009 HHH1/2 intensity of blackberry fruit andneed food,” said another. Big, rich, oaky and somewhat well-structured tannins. $32 extracted wine that, according greenness, rounded tannins to one judge, “needs at least and tobacco-like finish. A good another 10 years”. $75 food wine. 3-5 $29JUDGES Alan George Meg Brodtmann MW John Harris Chief winemaker of Tahbilk Australia’s first female MW. Partner and winemaker Winery for the past eight Founder of winemaking for Mitchell Harris Wines years. Previously was a consultancy, Southern & runs own consultancy winemaker at Lindemans, Cross Wines. Has overseen business. Formerly Mitchelton and Rosemount winemaking projects for sparkling winemaker for in a winemaking career Vina Morande (Chile), South Domaine Chandon in the spanning 34 years. Judge at America. Educator and Yarra Valley. Regional & the Rutherglen Wine Show. trainer for WSET (Wine & state wineshow judge. Spirit Education Trust. Guest lecturer at Charles Sturt University and Deakin University.72 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

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200 TASTED121 AWARDEDI TA LI A N & S PA N I S HA really exciting, interesting tasting of these many Mediterranean Stefano De Pieri Coopers Creek Bellborn wines, either as imports or as the home grown ex-pats! South Australia Ringer GisborneThese are generally not wines you will see winning gold medals Pinot Grigio Albarino 2011 HHHHin open competitions because as “food wines” they are invariably 2011 HHH A lovely lifted sweet fruitymid-weight, lacking the punch of “trophy winning” classic varieties. A lovely aromatic nose showing a floralHowever, they come into their own as convivial drinkers or over ‘attack’ of pungent edge. Lively and zestylunch. One glass is not enough! sweet fruit with a well on the palate with great balanced lightweight balance, good mouthfeelITALIAN Bodegos Langa Yalumba Y Series palate. $16.99 and tight acid. $20& SPANISH Hnos Montevicor South Australia Bodegas GallegasSPARKLING Calatayud Cava Pinot Grigio Karanto Langhorne Miudino Rias Baixas NV HHH 2011 HHHH Creek Pinot Grigio Albarino 2010 HHHH10 TASTED Broader yeasty Vegemite Gentle fruit aromas 2011 HHH Developed ripe pear and6 AWARDED nose and full flavoured with a “bit of funk” Lifted green apple nose sweet apricot aromas juicy palate. $24.99 and creamy edges. and sharp tight palate and it’s full, soft andA solid class of good Good pear-like flavour with some up-front fruit gentle in the mouth.drinking wines; not Andreola Orsolo concentration fills the sweetness. $17 Delicious wine but drinkcomplex but very Dirupo Superiore mouth and juicy acid it soon. $25.80approachable and Brut Valdobbiadene balances. $14.95 Hahndorf Hill Telmo Rodrigueztending to be off-dry Prosecco 2009 HHH De Bortoli Windy Winery HHW Mountain Blancorather than brut styles. Green apple/lime bouquet Peak Victoria Pinot Adelaide Hills Pinot Sierras de Malaga with sherbety characters. Grigio 2010 HHH1/2 Grigio 2011 HHH Dry MoscatelFerrari Metodo Soft and fruity in the A very youthful, clean, Floral fruit bouquet and 2009 HHHHClassico Trento Brut mouth. $34.25 vibrant wine with sweet bright refreshing fruity Sweet floral/candyNV HHH1/2 white peach and pear palate with nice dry bouquet and lovely fruitA full flavoured complex Castillo Perelada juice-like fruit with a finish. $25 expression on palatewine with nice sweet Cuvee Especial Brut crisp acid backbone. $14 which spreads to allnuttiness to the nose and Nature Penedes Lone Kauri Reserve Hardys Nottage parts of the mouth. Verysubtle floral flavours with Cava 2007 HHH East Coast New Hill South Eastern high quality tannic/acida tangy finish. $49.99 Attractive bottle aged Zealand Pinot Grigio Australia Pinot frame. $40 characters to the nose 2009 HHH1/2 Grigio 2010 HHH Zontes FootstepMcGuigan Pinot and soft flavoursome Floral/peachy-like Delicate aromas of pears The LoveGrigio Sparkling toasty palate. $31.25 aromas on the nose and and flower petals with Symbol Savagnin2010 HHH1/2 a full fruity palate with a rich, complex and 2011 HHH1/2Light rose pink and PINOT GRIGIO nice mouthfeel and good developed palate. $8.50 A nicely texturedsmelling of strawberries cleansing acid. $17 mouthfilling winewith quite a mouthful 22 TASTED Haselgrove First Cut Fiegl Collio with stonefruit andof flavour and good acid 10 AWARDED Adelaide Hills Pinot (Italy) Pinot Grigio light tropical varietalbalance. $19 Grigio 2011 HHH 2010 HHH characters. Some Too many of these Light lime aromas and Pungent developed savouriness and zestyCastillo Perelada wines were lacking clean fruity palate with nutty creamy nose and acidity. $16.50Brut Reserva acid for perfect balance good tart acidity. Easy dry savoury creamy Javier SanzPenedes NV HHH - including the Italian drinking. $16 textured palate. $29.99 Orden TerceraDelicate floral aromas imports. The best wines Kirrihill Serendipity Rueda Verdejowith earthy/citrus ranged from neutral, Vineyard Adelaide OTHER 2010 HHH1/2notes. Sweet/sour linear and crisp styles Hills Pinot Grigio SPANISH Pungent tropical aromas-palate with some nice to bigger flavoured 2010 HHH WHITE almost sauvignonyeast age. $24.80 styles, not quite gris but Developing nutty buttery VARIETALS blanc-like. Tangy punchy heading that way. aromas and linear palate & BLENDS palate has a high level of with mouthwatering herbal characters. $27 acidity. Drink now. $16 16 TASTED 13 AWARDED A good line up of predominantly albarino wines with some blended ‘blanco’ styles.74 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

varietal tastingBodegas Vina Nora Bodegas Vina Nora OTHERNora Rias Nora da Neve Rias ITALIAN WHITEBaixas Albarino Baixas Albarino VARIETALS2010 HHH1/2 2007 HHHDusty earthy apple nose A full bodied oaky wine 21 TASTEDand quite lean but nicely with toasty butterscotch 15 AWARDEDstructured fruity palate aromas and big creamywith some interest and palate. $64.95 The vermentinoscomplexity. $28.50 performed well hereBodegas Pazo SPANISH ROSE/ showing subtle flavoursSan Mauro Rias ROSADO with lovely ‘crunchy’Baixas Albarino phenolics. A couple of2009 HHH1/2 5 TASTED fianos made the gradeHoneyed caramel 5 AWARDED but the others lackedaromas with yeasty fruit intensity. Arneistones and creamy full Quite a strong consistent is a promising whiteflavoured palate. Good class of rosés with the variety showing a mixedflavour intensity and fresh fruit upfront styles bag of results.persistence. $23.50 and the more complex,Pazos del Rey cooked strawberry, Stefano De PieriPazo de Monterrey slightly worked styles. Diqualita MurrayMonterrei Blanco Darling Fiano2008 HHH1/2 Santa Cruz de 2011 HHHHMedium bodied wine Artazu Artazuri Lifted floral/muscatwith pleasant stonefruit Navarra Garnacha aromas and beautifullycharacter mingling Rosado 2010 HHHH balanced well ‘tuned’with honeycomb-like Light, crunchy, palate with slightlyelements and sharp salivatingly dry style with greenish fruit flavoursacidity. $25.80 floral strawberry bouquet and tight acid. GreatTelmo Rodriguez and juicy palate with food wine. $20.49Basa Rueda Blanco enough fruit flavours to2010 HHH make it interesting. $26 Box StallionFloral/stonefruit Morningtonfragrances and mildly Celler de Capcanes Peninsula Arneistropical fruit palate with Mas Donis Montsant 2008 HHHHlight acidity. $27 Rosat 2010 HHH1/2 Beautifully expressiveTelmo Rodriguez Beautifully elegant varietal nose - someGaba do Xil food wine with fragrant pungency. Sweet,Valdeorras Godello floral aromas and round, upfront palate2010 HHH savoury palate with that has balance, textureLight fruity nose and terrific fruit, tannin and and juicy acidity. $20creamy savoury, slightly acid balance. $29earthy, palate with nice Yalumba Y Seriesgrip and texture. $30 Bodegas Pittacum South AustraliaBodegas Eidosela Tres Obispos VermentinoRias Baixas Albarino Bierzo Rosado 2011 HHH1/22010 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 Lifted floral aromaticsIntriguing pink wine with Unusual nose a bit like with herbaceous hints.subtle lime sherbet nose pickled cherries. Fleshy Flavoursome palateand soft fruit flavours in the mouth with nice -soft and round in theover tangy acid. $33 savoury interplay and mouth with good acidBodegas Eidosela good acid structure. $33 spine. $14.95Arbastrum RiasBaixas Albarino Blackbilly McLaren Chalk Hill McLarenLoureiro Treixadura Vale Tempranillo Vale Vermentino2010 HHH Rosado 2011 HHH 2011 HHH1/2Subtle floral/pear Intense serious style Lovely wine with aromasbouquet. Great palate with good strawberry- of apple blossom andstructure; pretty fruit, like flavour persistence nicely rounded fruitysoft acid and nutty and savoury notes. $20 palate with grippy edgestannins. $37 and moderate acidity. $18 Cillar de Silos Rosado de Silos Ribera del Duero Tempranillo Rosado 2010 HHH Full flavoured dark pink wine with a perfumed nose and dry strawberry flavours. $37 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 75

ITA LIAN & SPANISHStefano De Pieri Oliver’s Taranga TEMPRANILLO Telmo Rodriguez Rafa VineyardsDi Qualita Murray Vineyards Small 2010 Dehesa Gago Toro Running With BullsDarling Arneis Batch 4663 McLaren Tempranillo Barossa Valley2010 HHH1/2 Vale Vermentino 21 TASTED 2010 HHHH1/2 TempranilloDeveloped toasty 2011 HHH 12 AWARDED Young vibrant nose with 2010 HHH1/2honeyed fruit nose. Delicate green apple nose For reasonably young true tempranillo varietal Dusty gamey aromasRounded mouthfilling with toasty notes and wines there was either characters. Intense with a backbone ofpalate. Good pear evolving mouthwatering too much oak or they and rich in the mouth dark fruits. Round anddrop-like flavours, nice palate. $24 were ‘forced’ to offer with rich fruit, savoury rich in the mouth withphenolic edge. $20.49 Geoff Hardy Wines more than the fruit could tannins, strong mineral sour cherry and tobaccoTaylors TWP K1 By Geoff Hardy deliver. “The good wines notes and a floral lift. $32 flavours. $19.95Winemakers Adelaide Hills Arneis were naturally there with Pertaringa Tin Crittenden EstateProject Clare Valley 2011 HHH good fruit and structure”, Man Adelaide Los HermanosVermentino Orange sherbet tang to noted one judge. Hills Tempranillo Tempranillo2011 HHH the nose. Nice grip to Graciano Garnacha 2010 HHH1/2Light sweaty muscat the zesty tropical palate. Cillar de Silos Joven 2010 HHHH Chocolaty, leathery andcharacters on the nose Good acidity. $25 de Silos Ribera del Bright simple dark fruit plum-like nose with aand very good crisp Patritti Adelaide Duero Tempranillo characters beautifully juicy, fruity, fleshy palatecrunchy palate. $18 Hills Arneis 2010 HHHHH layered with dusty oak with velvety soft tanninNatasha Mooney 2010 HHH Lovely fresh youthful and fine tannins and structure. $30La Bise (The Kiss) Some early developed aromas that are a showing toffee-like Bodegas Finca LaAdelaide Hills Arneis characters mingling with mixture of cherries, complexity. $20 Emperatriz Rioja2011 HHH the stonefruit. Slight oily chocolate and tobacco. Crabtree Watervale Alta TempranilloGreen apple bouquet texture. $14 Dry savoury and earthy Clare Valley 2010 HHHwith some floral notes. Coopers Creek palate with gorgeous Tempranillo Fragrant cherry bouquetUpfront sweet fruit on The Little Rascal lifted perfumed fruit 2010 HHHH with licorice notes andthe palate. $19 Gisborne Arneis wrapped in velvety Rich dark fruit aromas decent young fruityAzienda Agricola 2010 HHH tannins. $30 with lovely chocolaty palate. $19.95Melis ‘Iocalia’ Spicy pear juice elements. Big, soft Willunga 100Sardegna (Italy) fragrances and well velvety tannins on McLaren ValeVermentino structured, balanced, the palate - very dry Tempranillo2011 HHH palate with peppery with earthy spicy-like 2010 HHHAttractive high acid elements. $20 flavours. $25 Intense blackberry nosestyle. Tropical and Antichello Soave El Quintanal with tobacco notes. Good,floral like fruit; slight Verona Soave Ribera del Duero juicy, medium bodied,confectionery notes. $20 2009 HHH Tempranillo mocha palate. $24Fox Creek McLaren Flinty savoury nose with 2010 HHHH Lady Bay VineyardVale Vermentino slight floral edge and Red berries on the nose Southern Fleurieu2011 HHH fleshy honeyed/toasty with gamey/savoury TempranilloSubtly oaky aromas flavours. $17.95 edge. A light, fresh, 2010 HHHover pungent pear fruit. juicy fruit palate with Attractive ripe berry fruitNicely textured palate moderate flavours and with an herbal edge,with fresh oak and acid a touch of perfume and some oak and nicelength. $23 spice. $30 tannins. $25Oliver’s Taranga Reillys Dry Land Te - Aro EstateVineyards Small Clare Valley The Charging BullBatch 4856 McLaren Tempranillo Barossa ValleyVale Fiano 2011 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 TempranilloFunky pungent savoury Smells of Cherry Ripe 2010 HHHaromas and long savoury with nice mintiness Smoky earthy floralpalate with great acid and a savoury textured aromas and sweet sourand grippy texture. $24 palate with mocha-like cherry flavours with flavour profile. $25 drying tannins. $35JUDGES Scott Wasley David Stevens-Castro Warren Proft Director of the Spanish David Stevens-Castro Winemaker at Chrismont Aquisition. Leading is a sommelier, and Wines, has worked three importer of Spanish agricultural scientist from vintages in Spain and 14 in Wines. He is a regular Chile who works from the King Valley producing commentator for various Byron Bay, NSW, as an predominately Italian and wine magazines, a wine independent wine expert Spanish varietals. Has educator and a spokesman who regularly writes, judged at the Mediterranean for the modern Spanish presents and interacts Wine Show and as an ‘new wave’ of winemaking. with the wine world. associate judge at the Rutherglen Wine Show.76 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

TEMPRANILLO Dominio de Atauta varietal tasting2009 & OLDER Ribera del Duero Tempranillo The24 TASTED 2005 HHHH15 AWARDED Smells of dark aged HEDONIST blackberry fruit and has by Walter ClappisArtadi Vinas de Gain a full velvety smoothRioja Tempranillo palate brimming over o9 Shiraz2008 HHHHH with sweet fruit and“Quality all the way”, leathery tannins. $72.50 WINNER ofcommented one Glandore Estatejudge about this wine. Wine Hunter Valley the prestigiousLovely dark deep spicy Tempranillo George Mackeyfruit showing inky 2008 HHH1/2 Memorial Trophyconcentration, seamlessly Fragrant spicy/leatheryintegrated with chocolaty nose. Open and elegant for the best winemocha oak and velvety palate with redcurrant exported fromtannins. $58 jam flavours and good Australia in 2011. oak balance. $25Bodega San Glandore EstatePedro Regalado Wine TPR HunterEmbocadero Valley TempranilloRibera del Duero 2008 HHH1/2Tempranillo Seductive perfumed2008 HHHH1/2 candy-like aromas and aIntense toasty dark fruit sweet fruit palate withwith some greenness soft tannins and goodunderneath. Soft plush acid structure. $35palate with full fruit Box Stallionflavours, well structured Morningtontannins and lovely Peninsulasupporting oak. $26.99 TempranilloNatasha Mooney 2008 HHH1/2La Bise (The Kiss) Lovely lifted cherryAdelaide Hills choc aromas with dustyTempranillo oak notes. Rounded,2008 HHHH balanced, oaky palate hasFloral, perfumed and nice sweet tannins. $40fragrant on the nose. Sandbar EstateDecent juicy characters Victoria Tempranilloto the savoury mocha 2009 HHHpalate. It’s complex and Smells of blackberryelegant. $19 candies with a darkTelmo Rodriguez earthy spicy palateM2 de Matallana showing decentRibera del Duero structure. $15Tempranillo Nepenthe Adelaide2007 HHHH Hills TempranilloSmells of sweet black 2009 HHHfruit and licorice and quite Sweet bramble fruitan assertive full, savoury, nose and lightweightoaky palate with long oaky palate with sweetpersistent flavours. $75 aftertaste. $20Rollo Crittenden www.hedonistwines.com.auChief winemaker at thefamily’s Crittenden Estate.Previously winemaker forDromana Estate for thepast 10 years. Has alsomade wine in Oregon,California, Italy and theHunter Valley. Associatejudge at the AlternativeVarieties Show. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 77

ITA LIAN & SPANISHNashwauk McLaren OTHER Celler de Capcanes Crittenden Estate Bodegas Finca LaVale Tempranillo SPANISH RED Lasendal Montsant Los Hermanos Emperatriz Reserva2009 HHH VARIETALS Garnacha Barrica Hermanos Red Blend Rioja Red BlendSweet candy aromas & BLENDS 2009 HHH1/2 2010 HHH 2004 HHHwith minty notes and Smells of sour Red and black fruit Dark fruit nose; someyouthful sweet fruit 29 TASTED raspberries. Medium aromas. Ripe, savoury mintiness. Juicy welldriven palate. $25 18 AWARDED bodied woody palate, and earthy in the mouth textured palate withBodegas Mano good length of dried with strong tannins. $34 light fruit and wellA Mano Tierra del Lots of variation here, as herb and tart raspberry Geoff Hardy Wines handled oak. $40Vino de Zamora to be expected. However fruit flavours. $40 Hand CraftedTempranillo there were also veins Bodegas La Purisma Langhorne Creek OTHER2009 HHH of similarity between Trapio Yecla Graciano 2009 HHH ITALIAN REDDark meaty nose and the styles. Whilst some Monastrell Ripe caramel aromas VARIETALSfull firm oak palate, showed premature 2008 HHH1/2 with herbal notes. Soft, & ROSEnot a classic but very development others A plush velvety wine sweet red berry palatedrinkable. $25.80 were amazingly fresh with warm, earthy, has mouthcoating 20 TASTEDRed Art Single and vibrant for their age. spicy aromas and a big tannins. $22 14 AWARDEDVineyard Barossa fleshy palate with grippy DescendientesValley Tempranillo Morgan Simpson tannins. $45 de J. Palacios Lots of variety here but2008 HHH Plan B McLaren Vale Palacios Remondo Petalos Bierzo the judges commentedSpicy inky nose with a Mataro 2010 HHHH La Montesa Mencia 2009 HHH that the use of oak wasperfumed lift and very Violet and sweet candy Rioja Garnacha Toasty/spicy excessive given the mid-dry oaky palate with dark aromas with subtle Tempranillo blackcurrant aromas and weight structure of thefruit flavours. $30 meaty notes. Juicy, inky, 2008 HHH1/2 a big grippy mouthful of wines involved.Telmo Rodriguez spicy palate saturated Youthful, medium mocha-like flavours. $49Gago Toro with flavour and a lovely bodied, vibrant, primary Buil y Giné Gine Azienda AgricolaTempranillo line of soft tannins. $18 fruit style layered with Giné Priorat Elvio Cogno2008 HHH velvety tannins and with Garnacha 2008 HHH Dolcetto D’AlbaDeveloped oaky nose Bodegos Langa a mocha-like finish. $45 Classy sweet red Vigna Mandorlowith candy aromas Hnos Montevicor Bodegas Pittacum fruit nose and nice Alba (Italy) Dolcettounderneath and a full, Garnacha Bierzo Mencia persistence of sweet 2009 HHHH1/2drying, tannic palate. $66 2008 HHHH 2006 HHH1/2 grapey flavours with “A great wine”, agreedTelmo Rodriguez Grapey aromas with Sweet blue floral grippy tannins. $38 the judges. VibrantLanzaga Rioja slight grassy/herbal fragrances layered with d’Arenberg The colour, lifted brightTempranillo notes, sweet mocha oak. Vibrant linear palate Sticks & Stones berry aromas with violet2007 HHH flavours and gentle has leathery fruit, good McLaren Vale Red notes. Rich and complexAged cedary/fruit drying tannins. $19.99 oak balance and sweet Blend 2006 HHH in the mouth. Greatbouquet and similar tannins. $46 Old quirky style with flavour presence. Lovelypalate with firm grippy Willunga 100 Cims de Porrera sweet oaky fragrances drying tannins. $36.15tannins and vanillin after McLaren Vale Classic Priorat and developed leatherytaste. $58 Grenache Garnatxa Barrica flavours. $29 Cantinedi Santa 2010 HHH1/2 2005 HHH1/2 Vina Ginesa Sofia Amarone Floral confectionery Volatile nose with some Reservas Granrojo Veneto Piedmont aromas and thick sweet sweet candy aromas and Rojo Valdepenas Italy Valpolicella palate with good fruit very dry woody palate Garnacha 2010 HHH 2006 HHHH expression, nice tannin showing some attractive Quite fragrant and lifted Subtle dark fruit on structure and texture. $24 development. $143 on the nose with hints the nose. Good palate Dowie Doole of earth and spices. Big, weight and texture STAR RATINGS  G & T McLaren earthy, well structured with dark licoricey fruit Vale Garnacha palate with intense flavours and attractiveThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Tempranillo persistent flavours. $22 drying tannins. $107.25excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2010 HHH Vincenzo O.V SilverAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Warm earthy nose with Wings Central Patritti Adelaideprofessionals and are compared in peer an herbal edge. Good Victoria Mourvedre Hills Barberaclasses by three judges. open tannic palate with Shiraz 2005 HHH 2010 HHH1/2CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, mocha flavours. $25 Red fruit aromas with Bright spicy nose - slighta major mail-order business. Telmo Rodriguez chocolaty notes. Nicely medicinal charactersCD Cellar door price. Almuvedre Alicante developed lightweight with a clean fruityCDO Cellar door only. Monastrell palate. Some tannic palate, approachableSO Sold out. 2010 HHH grip. $34 tannins and smoky$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Spicy meaty nose and aftertaste. $16 fresh floral lift with Contact information pg 144. similar characters on the red berry palate. $26 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).78 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

varietal tastingCoopers Creek Michelini Alpine SANGIOVESE Mt Surmon Wines De Bortoli EmeriGuido in Velvet Valley Marzemino Clare Valley Australia MoscatoPants Montepulciano 2009 HHH 13 TASTED Nebbiolo 2009 HHH NV HHH2010 HHH1/2 Earthy red fruit 3 AWARDED Complex wine with Sweet grapey aromasConfectionery berry nose and good berry bright upfront fruit and sherbet lollycherry nose and very varietal flavours with “Underwhelming”, expression, juicy acid characters on the bigrich, soft and juicy fruit some complexity agreed the judges. and tannic finish. $25 sweet palate. Easy topalate with good flavour developing. $18.50 Too many of these wines drink. $13intensity and drying were green and tannic MOSCATOtannins. $28 Tenuta Carretta creating unbalanced De Bortoli EmeriPertaringa Single Barbera d’Alba (Italy) sweet/sour wines. 7 TASTED Australia MoscatoVineyard McLaren Barbera 2009 HHH 5 AWARDED Rosa NV HHHVale Aglianico Perfumed violet-like Chalk Hill McLaren A very good group of Gentle musky floral notes2010 HHH1/2 fragrances and soft in Vale Sangiovese moscatos with the to the nose and sweetFloral, herbal and slight the mouth with bright 2010 HHH cooler climate muscat/ grapey flavours withminty combination red fruit flavours. $25 Good weight with dark frontignac wines, rather phenolic balance. $13of aromas and sweet cherry fruit mingling than the muscat/gordochocolaty palate. Oliver’s Taranga with some sweet subtle ones, performing best. Chalk HillGood weight and fine Vineyards Small vanillin oak. $20 McLaren Valetannins. $30 Batch 3219 McLaren Kirrihill Moscato 2011 HHHMr Riggs Adelaide Vale Sagrantino Tenuta di Capraia Clare Valley Moscato Nice fruity sherbetHills Montepulciano 2009 HHH Chianti Classico 2011 HHHH1/2 bouquet and very sweet2009 HHH1/2 Complex ripe berry Tuscany Italy Lovely lifted lemon and honey-like palate withVery rich complex style aromas with a nutty Sangiovese ginger like aromas and a good fizz! $18with toasty oak on the herbal edge. Some fruit 2008 HHH clean, fruity palate withnose and rich powerful and velvety tannins on Sweet coconut aromas great acid/sugar balance SWEET WHITEoaky flavours on a solid the palate. $40 and savoury tannic and zesty creamy spritzwell-structured palate. $25 palate with hints of characters. Very easy to 2 TASTEDYalumba Y Series Karanto Langhorne cherries. $37.70 drink! $14 2 AWARDEDSouth Australia Creek Aglianico CrittendenSangiovese Rosé 2008 HHH Tenuta il Poggione Estate Pinocchio A couple of great2011 HHH Nose a tad developed Brunello di Mornington examples of thePale pink with soft with tomato bush notes. Montalcino Peninsula Moscato European style; astrawberry aromas and Chocolaty palate. Good (Italy) Sangiovese 2011 HHH1/2 slightly more savourydry savoury palate that’s tannic grip. $22 2004 HHH Attractive floral/ginger- sweet wine rather thanfresh and light. $14.95 A nicely aged wine like characters on the lusciously sweet styles.Stefano De Pieri OTHER developing well with nose followed by aDi Qualita Murray ITALIAN RED toasty oak and drying pleasant bright, juicy and Telmo RodriguezDarling Primitivo BLENDS tannins. $129.50 fruity palate. $25 MR Malaga2010 HHH Moscatel 2009Light confectionery fruit 3 TASTED NEBBIOLO (500ml) HHHH1/2bouquet and bright, 1 AWARDED Intense pretty ‘dancing’young, sweet berry fruit 7 TASTED nose with honeyedpalate. $20.49 Heartland Langhorne 2 AWARDED nutty muscat aromas.Geoff Hardy Hand Creek Dolcetto & Lovely creamy textureCrafted Langhorne Lagrein 2010 HHH1/2 One standout wine from to a palate loaded withCreek Primitivo Upfront leathery Barolo whilst some new delicious honeycomb2010 HHH oak characters with world styles were made flavour sweetness. $49Lifted perfumed good weight of fruit for a modern, drink now,candied aromas. Silky underneath, high level of market. More work Primitivo Quilessmooth in the mouth; tannins and toasty toffee needs to be done here. Alicante Moscatelgood fruit balance and elements. $22 NV HHH1/2crisp acid. $22 Azienda Agricola Full sweet floral/muscatCoriole Vineyards Elvio Cogno aromas and gentlyMcLaren Vale Ravera Barolo sweet, earthy/toffeeBarbera 2010 HHH (Italy) Nebbiolo palate. “Golden andWarm oaky nose -hints of 2006 HHHH graceful”, thought oneberries. Oak driven palate Attractive subtle spicy/ judge. $18with earthy flavours and herbal aromas mix withsoft tannins. $30 berry fruits. Velvety palate offers a mouthful of tannins, nicely aged fruit and mocha notes. $116 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 79

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINBAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYEATING OUT NEW HOME TRIKE AND HIKETHE Barossa is about to gain a new TSCHARKE’S Place is the new home BAROSSA Trike Tours, which conductsdining option with the news that leading of Tscharke and Glaymond Wines, and wine and food tours throughout the region,Adelaide chef Lachlan Colwill has joined is the end result of lots of hard work by is offering a new experience, combining thethe team at Hentley Farm Wines. Colwill, winemaker Damien Tscharke and his wife comfort and thrills of riding aboard a stunningformer executive chef of The Manse, has Eva to create a unique space to showcase trike with hiking through the Kaiser Stuhla brief to further develop the food side their wines. Damien, a sixth-generation Conservation Park. Tony Tscharke, owner/of the Hentley Farm experience. Hentley Barossan and his wife Eva, originally operator of Barossa Trike Tours is an avidFarm founder Keith Hentschke says: f ro m G e r m a n y, w a n t e d Ts c h a r k e ’s hiker having hiked the famous Inca Trail in“Our passion is to create exceptional, Place to be unique, sustainable, a Peru and Torres del Paine circuit in Chile.intimate food and wine experiences, reflection of their origin and an enjoyable “The hike in Kaiser Stuhl is a hidden gem ofwhether at our estate in Seppeltsfield space. The building was designed by the Barossa with over 400 species of nativeor at selected events around Australia plants and an abundance of wildlife includingand the world. With Lachlan on board Damien and Eva, then engineered and many resident western grey kangaroos, thewe know we can achieve this and we constructed in Germany. The sustainable occasional echidna and plenty of birdlife,”now are looking forward to opening a construction was shipped to Australia he says. “About half the trail follows theworld-class restaurant facility on our and together with the help of a local renowned Heysen Trail, including a shortsite. This will be housed in the property’s builder they built Tscharke’s Place in diversion trail to a stunning lookout atop ofrenovated old stone barn and will provide the heart of Marananga on the family’s a rocky outcrop overlooking the valley floora regionally focused cuisine created by estate. Visitors are invited to sample the and out to the St Vincent Gulf.”one of Australia’s most exciting chefs.” estate wines, including Montepulciano,Colwill returns home to the Barossa, savagnin, tempranillo and graciano as A 3.5-4 hour trike and hike experiencewhere he has worked at Salters and 1918. well as view and purchase the range costs $110 per person with a two-personIn his four years at Adelaide’s dining of stoneware pottery designed and minimum, or a 4.5-5-hour trip including ainstitution, The Manse, he won several handmade by Eva. Vineyard walks platter and wine tasting is $150 per person.awards. “I’m looking forward to heading and tours of the winery and barrel www.barossatriketours.com.au.up a kitchen that will be a continuous think hall are available by appointment.tank of ideas in food,” he says. “Joining Future experiences will also include STEP OUT ATHentley Farm is an opportunity to focus on light food, coffee and wine among the JACOB’S CREEKother areas in food such as farming and vines, and the opportunity to stay inforaging on the Hentley Farm site, which vineyard accommodation overlooking A VISIT to the Jacob’s Creek Visitors Centreis already a great source of inspiration as Marananga and its vineyards. Tscharke’s not only offers a look at the history of thea chef, and to create a dining experience Place is open Wednesday to Monday, brands, tastings and a meal at Jacob’sthat is unique to the region.” The new 10am-5pm, or by appointment. www. restaurant, there is also now the chance toeatery is expected to open in April. tscharke.com.au. enjoy a bushwalk along several rural trails. Inside the centre, visitors can enjoy either a casual or structured wine tasting or participate in a sensory workshop. Outdoors guests can learn more about grape-growing and winemaking with a tour of the demonstration vineyard or explore the grounds with a stroll along the trails to look at ancient gum trees, the old bakehouse, kitchen gardens and the old dairy. There is a picnic area alongside Jacob’s Creek, and the chance to get up close with resident kangaroos and emus – a uniquely Australian experience that is particularly enjoyed by overseas visitors. The Jacob’s Creek Visitors Centre is open daily from 10am-5pm. For details of the walking trail, see www.jacobscreek.com.au.80 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

travelbriefs ALL THINGS BAROSSA ON DECK BAROSSA newcomer Bibu Barossa is SHIRAZ specialists Two Hands have the brainchild of a brother and sister recently put the finishing touches to a who both have a huge passion for wine. new tasting deck at their cellar door in A cellar door/store for 10 independent Marananga. The new facility offers great winemakers whose bottles have been hard views and has delighted co-owner Michael to find, Bibu is about all things Barossa; Twelftree. “I’m thrilled with the new deck including wine, food and music. Inspired as it fits perfectly and feels just right,” by a stint at Diggers Bluff Winery, co-owner Twelftree said. “We now have many great Kate Milroy dreamed of putting together vistas and the perfect environment to a collaborative cellar door and regional sit and enjoy wines with our friends in a food outlet. Among the labels stocked are comfortable setting.” Twelftree predictsNEW TEAM Tim Smith, Soul Growers, Purple Hands, the deck will become a Barossa icon and Seize the Day and Tomfoolery. Bibu is it is attached to the cellar door, an originalGAWLER, the gateway to the Barossa, has also offering online sales with a skype stone cottage and bakehouse (with glasswelcomed fig22 @ The Wheatsheaf Inn. The “tasting” no matter where purchasers floor looking into the cellar), where tastingsteam at the new restaurant is led by husband are based. Bibu Barossa serves light can be accompanied by a tasting platterand wife team Robert and Karen Roesler, lunches daily (except Tuesday) and for two (Iberico jamon, duck rillettes,whose lunch menu includes fresh, seasonal, dinners on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. cornichons, sundried tomatoes, Kalamatahouse-made dishes and cheese plates, along It is at 79-81 Murray St, Tanunda; phone olives, Forteto pecorino, crusty bread rollwith teas, coffees and cakes. For dinner, they (08) 8563 0524. and God’s Country extra virgin olive oil),feature wood-fired gourmet pizza and tapas or a range of gourmet pizzas, includingengineered to encourage enjoyment of good HOW APPROPRIATE the Inquisition (Spanish chorizo, sundriedfood. The signature dish is the twice-cooked tomato, mozzarella and Kalamata olives)pork belly, while the wine list has been selected VISITORS to the Barossa can utilise a and the Well-Hung Pig (Iberico jamon,by sommelier Mat McNamara. Tapas offerings new iPhone application to help them goat’s cheese and rocket with olive oil). Twoinclude lachsschinken and sweet corn get the best out of their stay: Connect Hands was founded in 1999 by Twelftreecroquettes with spicy aioli and roquette ($13), Barossa. Elaine Ratcliffe, chairperson of and Richard Mintz. The award-winningbeef satays with peanut sauce ($12) and soy, Barossa Tourism, says the new tool also cellar door is open seven days a weekhoney and sesame-marinated chicken wings means businesses can highlight current from 10am-5pm; phone (08) 8562 4566.($12). Fig 22 is open Wednesday-Sunday information. Businesses that are members www.twohandswines.com.with light lunches and snacks available from of Barossa Tourism and Barossa Grape11-4pm and pizzas and tapas from 6pm. and Wine are already connected to the Above: Jacob’s Creek Visitor Centre and walking trails.Bookings are recommended; phone (08) 8523 app, which can be downloaded free at5588 or email [email protected]. the Apple app store. Opposite page Left: Tony Tscharke’s Trike Tours in the Barossa. Centre: Tscharke’s Place exterior. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 81

165 TASTED125 AWARDEDB AROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYAnother very solid result from arguably Australia’s most Rosenvale Vineyards Old Rileys of Eden Valleyconsistent quality winemakers who almost don’t know Vines Reserve Barossa The Family Eden Valleyhow to make bad wine! Hit by a very difficult, wet 2011 Semillon 2011 HHH1/2 Riesling 2009 HHHH1/2vintage it was amazing that any wines of this vintage “Great example of what is A lovely, flavoursome drink withperformed well but it certainly brought the cream to an underrated variety for the fabulous toasty/lime aromas andthe top. Best wines here tended to be the older wines Barossa,” said one judge. slightly oily palate, with toastywith, not surprisingly, shiraz being the star variety. Crisp, zesty lemon peel aged characters layered with characters. $39 sweet varietal fruit. $22SPARKLING Poonawatta Estate Bethany Barossa Semillon The Eden Eden Valley2 TASTED 2010 HHH1/2 Riesling 2011 HHHH Nose already showing some Gentle floral/lime fragrances;2 AWARDED honeyed, toasty age which is slight toasty notes. Nice lime echoed on the long, light lemon palate with powerful acid,Thorn-Clarke Brut Reserve butter palate. $18 some mineral elements andBarossa Pinot Noir some toastiness. $26Chardonnay NV HHH Yelland & Papps Jacob’s CreekFloral strawberry-like aromas Delight Barossa Reserve Barossa Rieslingand a pleasant, crisp, strawberry Vermentino 2011 HHH 2010 HHHHand cream palate. $16 Light, yeasty bouquet with floral Cooked citrussy nose showingSaxon Estate Platinum notes and crisp, fresh palate. slight aged notes with goodBarossa Sparkling Shiraz Needs spicy food. $19.95 palate weight, nice flavourNV HHH length and concentration andDark, earthy, berry nose and Rosenvale Vineyards crisp acidity. $17.99soft chocolaty/prune palate Estate Barossa Semillon McGuiganwith gentle tannic finish. $25 2011 HHH The Shortlist Eden Valley Zesty/flinty lemon palate nose Riesling 2005 HHHHOTHER WHITE 1847 Emma Lydia’s and full-flavoured palate with Nose is bursting with orangeVARIETALS Garden Barossa Semillon good acid spine. $24 peel aromas, some toast& BLENDS 2004 HHHHH and some honey. Palate is Stunning wine - beautifully RIESLING somewhere in between old11 TASTED crafted. Soft and fleshy with and young with a crisp, acid6 AWARDED hints of toasty age. The palate 21 TASTED backbone. $28.99 is complex, long and layered 15 AWARDED Orlando St Helga“Great to see winemakers showing great poise and Eden Valley Rieslinghaving a go,” said one judge. grace. One for lovers of aged A mixed result for the 2011s 2011 HHH1/2“Very promising result for the semillon. $20 but the older rieslings show Citrus aromas with floral notes.traminer and the vermentino Penfolds Cellar Reserve the beautiful elegance that this Good flavour intensity to thewith semillon having a natural Eden Valley Traminer variety can achieve with further long, lingering palate withhome in the Barossa.” 2010 HHHH ageing. A yardstick variety for plenty of bright acidity. $19.49 Lovely lifted tropical fruit the region. Saltram Mamre aromas and excellent sugar/acid Brook Eden Valley balance on the toasty, buttery New Eden Eden Valley Riesling 2011 HHH1/2 palate. “Would be sensational Riesling 2011 HHHHH Spicy floral bouquet and good with a laksa.” $33.99 A classic Eden Valley riesling concentration of ripe citrus and with a very attractive aromatic lime juice-like flavours with floral nose smelling like good acid backbone. $22 orange blossom. In the mouth Penfolds Bin 51 it is juicy, flavoursome and Eden Valley Riesling seamlessly balanced. $21.32 2011 HHH1/2 Attractive lifted musky/perfumed Pewsey Vale The aromas and a juicy and very Contours Eden Valley flavoursome citrussy palate. Riesling 2006 HHHHH Good drinking now. $29.99 Very enjoyable drinking now but there’s many years left in it yet. Fabulous toasty/honeyed aged characters mingle with the still, very fresh varietal fruit. Beautiful balance. $29.9582 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

regional tastingThorn-Clarke CHARDONNAY Balthazar of the Barossa Balthazar of the BarossaSandpiper Eden Valley Ishtar Barossa Valley Ishtar Barossa ValleyRiesling 2011 HHH 6 TASTED Rosé 2011 HHH Grenache ShirazLimes and spring blossom on 2 AWARDED Delicate cherry nose with hints Mourvedre 2009 HHH1/2the nose. Nice minerality mixing of red currant. Long, sweet mid A shy nose with some delicatewith the citrus flavours. $16 A bit disappointing with most palate and crunchy, savoury hints of raspberries and spices,Chateau Tanunda here lacking in flavour and finish. $19 and followed by a solid, plum/The Chateau Eden Valley complexity in a difficult vintage. cinnamon palate. $19Riesling 2011 HHH GRENACHE Grant BurgeNose has delicate floral Rosenvale Vineyards & BLENDS The Holy Trinity Barossaelements and a lean palate with Estate Barossa Grenache Shirazmoderate fruit flavours. $20 Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 12 TASTED Mourvedre 2008 HHH1/2Hartz Barn Wines General Smells of roses and lavender 8 AWARDED Savoury, tannic style. A touchStore Reserve Eden Valley with a long, balanced and elegant porty and chocolaty on theRiesling 2011 HHH palate loaded with yeasty/toasty/ Barossa is one of the bastions of nose, and with moderate fruitOrange peel bouquet with nutty characters. $24 old grenache vines. A solid group length on the palate. $36.95some toastiness and flavours with the blends performing best. Yalumba The Strapperreminiscent of toasty Berton Vineyard Reserve Barossa Grenache Shirazmarmalade. $25 Eden Valley Chardonnay Yelland & Papps Delight Mataro 2010 HHHMcGuigan 2010 HHH Barossa Grenache Shiraz Attractive berry/licorice noseThe Shortlist Eden Valley A well-made wine with 2010 HHH1/2 and dense, flavoursomeRiesling 2011 HHH a hint of oak and toastiness Lovely, chocolaty/Christmas palate with good length ofDelicate floral/musky nose and adding complexity to the cake fragrances and very black fruit. $21.95long, well-balanced, lemon sorbet peachy fruit. $17 flavoursome palate with plenty Rosenvale Vineyardspalate with crisp acid. $28.99 of sweet/spice elements. $19.95 Estate Barossa GrenachePenfolds Koonunga Hill ROSE 2010 HHHEden Valley Autumn McGuigan Simple, easy to drink wine withRiesling 2010 HHH 4 TASTED The Shortlist Barossa generous, spicy fruit aromasBright, lifted floral bouquet with 2 AWARDED G.S.M. 2009 HHH1/2 and flavours, and a warmingthreads of citrus and a complex, A big, flavoursome wine with a finish. $24flavoursome palate. $21.99 A couple of fresh, well-made dark, spicy, chocolate bouquetHartz Barn Wines General “worthies” here. “Ideal for our and quite a toasty palate withStore Reserve Eden Valley weather,” said one judge. some grippy tannins. $28.99Riesling 2010 HHHAn enjoyable, flavoursome Krondorf Bowen & Bowenwine with floral aromas and Barossa Grenache Roséjuicy lime flavours. $25 2011 HHH Strawberry and cream on the nose and soft in the mouth with fresh berry flavours. Not too sweet. $25.99 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 83

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYYelland & Papps Devote Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Liebech Ron’s Yalumba FDR1A BarossaBarossa Old Vine Barossa Merlot 2010 HHHH Selection Barossa Petit Cabernet SauvignonGrenache 2009 HHH A well-made, very flavoursome, Verdot 2006 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHA rich, warm full-bodied wine fruit-driven style of varietal with Attractive, caramel-like aged Jammy Christmas cake aromaswith powerful, berry/chocolate/ a pleasant berry and herbal fruit character on the nose with a and big, hot, slightly leathery/licorice elements. $32 length, and finishing with a complex, porty palate. $25 savoury fruit palate. $42.95The Colonial Estate chalky, tannic note. $16Alexander Laing Barossa Kalleske Dodger Barossa CABERNET CABERNETGrenache 2009 HHH Tempranillo 2010 HHHH BLENDS SAUVIGNONA sweet and simple almost Rich and flavoursome withporty style with gentle, good mix of savoury and sweet 6 TASTED 13 TASTEDraspberry/licorice flavours. $80 fruits and nice, dusty tannins. 5 AWARDED 12 AWARDED Good drinking now but will alsoOTHER RED age well with cellaring. $23 Solid, if not spectacular, A strong class showingVARIETALS class showing freshness and great consistency of quality& BLENDS Tim Smith Wines Barossa soft flavours. for the region. Mataro 2010 HHHH12 TASTED A well-made, very stylish, wine Krondorf Schwarz & Pepperjack Saltram9 AWARDED that smells like Turkish Delight Heidenreich Barossa of Barossa CabernetA very interesting line-up and has good varietal fruit Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2010 HHHHHof different varietals and flavours nicely balanced by the Shiraz 2010 HHHH Nose an attractive complexityblends showing the versatility crisp acidity. $36 Lovely lift of violet, blackcurrant of green bean, red and blackof the region. Tim Smith Wines Barossa and licorice aromas with a well- berries, chocolate and some Mataro 2009 HHHH balanced, very flavoursome, floral aromas with intenseTim Smith Wines Barossa Very lifted nose - tad black fruit palate with moderate blackberry and mint flavoursMataro Grenache Shiraz confectionary-like with a warm, astringency. $26.99 that are long, balanced and2010 HHHH1/2 full-bodied, palate showing astringent. $27A youthful wine with lots of dark, excellent length of bright, Thorn-Clarke Shotfirespicy, berry aromas lifting off the varietal fruit flavours. $36 Quartage Barossa Rosenvale Vineyardsnose and layered with chocolate Running With Bulls Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines Reserveand herbal/floral nuances. An Tempranillo 2010 HHH1/2 Merlot Cabernet Franc Barossa Cabernetabundance of mouthfilling, An easy drinking, medium Malbec 2008 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2“rustic” flavours. $29 bodied wine with a mingling of A delicate floral and herbal-like A long, well-made, full-bodiedThorn-Clarke Terroir berry and rhubarb characters bouquet, and good length of cabernet - very stylish withSeries Northern Barossa and herbal/minty hints. $19.95 minty, fruit flavours balanced rich concentration of licorice,Malbec 2008 HHHH1/2 Hartz Barn Wines with some tight tannins. $35 blackcurrant, chocolate andQuite a warm, astringent and Mail Box Reserve Barossa some herbal characters, somegrippy style with an attractive, Merlot 2009 HHH Yalumba The Scribbler age and warm finish. $39dark chocolaty nose and a silky- Nice drink with lovely varietal Barossa Cabernetsmooth, fruity palate with just fruit/oak balance and good acid Sauvignon Shiraz Chateau Tanunda Granda hint of mint and lots of oak level with a toasty finish. $29.95 2009 HHH Barossa Cabernetcharacters. $35 Nose is a tad subdued and Sauvignon 2010 HHHH savoury with cherry/licorice- Dense, rhubarb/berry bouquet like palate and moderate with some confectionery astringency. $22.95 characters and very flavoursome, juicy, varietal Fox Gordon By George chocolaty/minty palate. $20 Barossa Cabernet Tempranillo 2009 HHH Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Intense, vibrant, spicy plum Barossa Cabernet wine; quite oaky with grippy Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 tannins. $19.95 Reserved nose - some minty hints. Good depth and length of bright, rich, varietal fruit on the astringent palate. $16DAY 1 - JUDGES Stuart Bourne Stephen Meyer Senior winemaker White winemaker for Sam Kurtz at Chateau Tanunda. Orlando Wyndham with Group red winemaker for Formerly winery manager the Richmond Grove brand. Orlando Wyndham. His and winemaker for Has previously worked in career spans 12 vintages Barossa Valley Estate. the Barossa Valley, SA and in Australia to date, and Has 13 years’ winemaking Mudgee and Griffith, NSW. he’s worked international experience. Associate Conducted a vintage in vintages in Hungary and judge at the Barossa Wine Republic of Georgia (2001). the United States. Judge Show. Vintages in WA, at the Melbourne and Victoria and SA. Canberra wine shows.84 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

regional tastingHart Of The Barossa Saltram Winemaker’s Whatever you sell - products or services,The Blessing Cabernet Selection Barossa Shiraz labour or ideas - Donaldson Walsh (DW)Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Tempranillo 2008 HHHH1/2 can help your business reach a higher level.Ripe, dense and youthful fruity Deep, brooding/smoky, oak-likearomas and full-bodied, varietal bouquet leading on to a firm, Recognised by Best Lawyers Australia, Doyle’s Guidefruit palate with good tannin chocolaty and plum palate with to the Australian Legal Profession and the Franchisingintegration. $30 good balance between the Council of Australia, our exceptional knowledge chalky tannins, dark spicy fruit and skills span:Hartz Barn Wines Carriages and the oak. $50Reserve Barossa Cabernet • Agribusiness • International TradeSauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 Wyndham Estate GeorgeGood lifted varietal aromatics Wyndham Barossa Shiraz • Commercial Disputes • Personal Injury Lawand generous, full-bodied Tempranillo 2009 HHHH & Insolvencypalate with nice tannic Vibrant, blueberry/dark cherry • Propertybackbone in support. $29.95 fruit lift on the nose and • Competition & medium length to palate with Consumer Law • Self Insurance,Rosenvale Vineyards soft, spicy fruit flavours, firm Workers CompensationEstate Barossa Cabernet tannins and fresh acidity. $21.59 • Corporate & & Workplace LawSauvignon 2009 HHH CommercialSoft, rich, concentrated style Yalumba Eden Valley • Taxation & Revenuewith savoury aromas and full- Shiraz Viognier 2008 HHHH • Franchisingbodied, flavoursome palate. $24 Warm, soft and elegant with • Wills, Estates chocolaty/prune-like fruit • Insurance & Business SuccessionLou Miranda Estate characters. Great balanceLeone Barossa Cabernet between the oak, fruit and acid, • IP & Technology • Wine & Hospitality.Sauvignon 2008 HHH and gentle tannins. $21.95Dusty, oaky aromas with Visit our website to learn more:ripe, porty notes and an oaky, Dolan Barossa Shiraz www.donaldsonwalsh.com.audriven palate with good acid Tempranillo 2010 HHH1/2level. $17.95 Lovely, medium bodied wine Kings Chambers with a great concoction of 320 King William StreetLinke Barossa Cabernet earthiness, dark cherry fruit, fresh Adelaide SA 5000Sauvignon 2008 HHH acid and chalky tannins. $25Soft, ripe, raisined fruit style [email protected] cabernet nicely layered with Chateau Tanundaleathery characters. $22 Barossa Tower Shiraz Primitivo 2009 HHHBerton Vineyard High Developed leathery aromas;Eden Cabernet Sauvignon hints of vanilla. Good palate2008 HHH length with fruit well matchedJubey, toasty aromas and soft with the oak. $18and round in the mouth withleathery, fruit flavours. $35 Westlake Vineyards 717 Convicts The FelonSaltram Mamre Brook Barossa Shiraz CabernetBarossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHSauvignon 2008 HHH Smells of fruit cake and offers aAn intensely red, flavoursome hot mouthful of porty flavours.wine with minty, blackberry Good structure. $27.50fruit and drying tannins. $35 SHIRAZ 2010Saltram Winemaker’sSelection Barossa Cabernet 16 TASTEDSauvignon 2008 HHH 14 AWARDEDDeveloped, complex, oakybouquet with moderate level Very strong class with very fewof fruit on the palate. Good weak wines. Here we saw someacidity. $50 “old fashioned bruisers” and also wines with medium weightSHIRAZ BLENDS elegance. “This vintage tends more to spicy elegance rather6 TASTED than the traditional ripeness of6 AWARDED the region,” said one judge.A strong flight showing thatshiraz is a great blender of verydifferent varietal combinations. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 85

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYSt Hallet Faith Barossa Thorn-Clarke Goodchild Reserve EdenShiraz 2010 HHHHH Sandpiper Barossa Shiraz Valley Shiraz 2010 HHHDescribed by one judge as 2010 HHHH1/2 Choc/mint aromas. Palate firm“A ripper of a wine.” It’s a Lovely plumy nose with great and oaky at this stage withwell-structured, youthful, dark spicy notes and touches of dark, spicy fruit. $24.99fruit style that’s layered with chocolate and coffee. Beautifullyseamless tannins and lovely seamless palate, well oaked with Rohrlach Family Reserveoak. Good cellaring potential. fresh acid and wonderful length Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHH of varietal fruit. 5+ $16 Tightly structured wine with 5+ $19 spicy, raisined fruit, sensible oak Fox Gordon Hannah’s and firm but fine tannins. $25.99 Swing Barossa Shiraz Yalumba Galway 2009 HHHHH Vintage Barossa Shiraz Chateau Tanunda Vibrant dark berry fruit nose 2010 HHHH The Chateau Single surrounded by delightful Light and bright style but Vineyard Bethanian oak characters. Rich and with good fruit concentration, Shiraz 2010 HHH flavoursome in the mouth with sensible oak and gentle Great medium-bodied wine - lovely chocolaty/prune/peppery/ tannins. Lovely example of the very oaky with a deep core of bacon combination of flavours. variety. $15.95 dark, varietal fruit. $28 Youthful. $44.95 Wolf Blass Hart Of The Barossa Kalleske Moppa Barossa Gold Label Barossa The Brave Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHHH 2010 HHHH Soft and flavoursome with A beautiful wine with great Big, flavoursome shiraz with some porty prune-like fruit poise, finesse and balance. It is brooding, chocolaty, prune under the vanillin oak. $28 a lovely, deep red/purple with fruit. Lovely, firm oak backbone dense, cedary plum aromas and ripe, chewy tannins with a SHIRAZ 2009 and youthful, vibrant palate with slight oaky finish. $25 mouthwatering acidity. $24 24 TASTED Chateau Tanunda TerroirsThorn-Clarke Kalleske Greenock Barossa 21 AWARDED of the Barossa LyndochShotfire Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHHHShiraz 2010 HHHHH For lovers of big wines this is a Excellent class. “A great Very smart style with lovelyRipe style without being over ripe monster of a style - warm example of why this variety length of dark red and black fruitripe. Beautiful varietal fruit and rich with dense, earthy, does so well in the district. characters with spicy, leatheryvibrancy balanced with well- chocolaty, prune characters Here we have big and small elements balanced by ripehandled oak and a lovely, firm, and charry oak. $38 winemakers each producing tannins and charry oak. Toastyseamless tannic backbone. great distinctive styles.” There nose and syrupy palate. $48Has warmth, texture and Dorrien Estate are the blockbusters as well Tim Smith Wines Barossastructure. 5+ $20 The Asset Barossa as the “evolved” newer styles Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 with fresh fruit overtones. A well-made, soft andPepperjack Bright, lifted dark cherry/ flavoursome wine with anSaltram of Barossa plum fruit, chocolaty oak and Saltram Mamre excellent seamless balanceShiraz 2010 HHHHH gentle, silky tannins. Soft, Brook Barossa Shiraz between the oak, minty licoriceA beautifully poised, fresh refined and fresh. Cellaring 2009 HHHHH fruit, fresh acidity and silkyand lively red/purple shiraz potential. 5+ $28.99 An old-fashioned, oaky/ tannins. $36with extraordinary length of chocolaty/fruitcake bruiser. Westlake Vineyardspowerful, minty, chocolate Mojo by RockBare One for lovers of the old Eleazar Barossa Shirazfruit balanced by some clever Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHH school, big Barossa shiraz. 2009 HHHH1/2use of oak with good level of An oaky core surrounded by Dense concentrated aromas Beautiful red/purple wire with anchewy tannins. 5+ $27 luscious, ripe varietal fruit, and flavours. “Needs meat,” oaky nose and some ripe plum soft tannins and balancing said one judge. $35 aromas. A slightly sweet palate acidity. $17.95 with a bright fruit core wrapped in lovely charry/toasty oak. $55 Yelland & Papps Delight Barossa Shiraz 2010 HHH Subdued, slightly savoury aromas and dark core of ripe, fruit flavours with a firm, tannic spine. $19.95DAY 2 - JUDGES Jane Paull Tracey Siebert Freelance wine consultant, Senior Scientist, Australian Troy Kalleske winemaker and wine Wine Research Institute Winemaker and co- educator. She is a lecturer (AWRI). 8 years experience owner of Kalleske Wines. in senory evaluation and on the Technical Quality Previously with Southcorp fermentation technology Panel (AWAC). Group, including Penfolds, at Adelaide University and Seppelt and Lindemans. a coupe trainer for the Also vintaged with Kendall Advanced Wine Assessment Jackson in California. Course. Regular national and Associate judge at the regional show judge. Barossa Wine Show.86 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

regional tasting Kalleske Eduard Barossa Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 A very ripe and slightly developed shiraz with powerful, smoky/toasty oak, solid savoury fruit core and fine tannins. $85The Colonial Estate The Colonial EstateMungo Park Barossa Exile Barossa ShirazShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHH1/2A very well-made wine that has Spicy/leathery aromasbalance, elegance and lovely layered with prune-like fruitlength. Nice gamey characters leading to a savory palateon the nose and a solid core with some earthiness andof peppery plum fruit flavours smoky notes. $220with rich mouthfeel. $110 Schild Estate BarossaFox Gordon Eight Uncles Shiraz 2009 HHHBarossa Shiraz 2009 HHHH Elegant, medium bodiedA long, well balanced wine with shiraz with lovely floral/berrygood depth and length of lovely characters and some leathery,rich Cherry Ripe like varietal spicy notes. $19.95fruit and excellent balance of Cartel Barossasweet spicy oak. $19.95 Shiraz 2009 HHHWestlake Vineyards 717 Chocolaty prune fruit, big oak,Convicts The Warden gentle tannins and a touch ofBarossa Shiraz 2009 HHHH aged characters. $13“Quite yummy,” thought Westlake Vineyardsone judge, “And with some Albert’s Block Barossaelegance.” Earthy, prune nose Shiraz 2009 HHHand fresh, ripe fruit palate with A funky wine with a combinationsilky, soft tannins. $35 of plum, olive, coffee and leathery characters. Rich and ripe. $27.50 McGuigan The Shortlist Barossa Shiraz 2009 HHH Ageing beautifully; has a lovely core of spicy dark fruit, good tannic oak and nice acid. $28.99Rosenvale Vineyards Old Poonawatta Estate 2008 Barossa Shiraz - 90 Points Barossa WineVines Reserve Barossa The Cuttings Eden Valley James Halliday 4.5 stars Show 2011Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH 2010 BarossaA good wine - still quite fresh. “If you love them big and tannic Winestate Magazine 5 stars Shiraz TempranilloSoft and silky in the mouth you’ll love this,” said one judge. 4 Star Winery - James Halliday Gold Medaland very flavoursome; lovely Loads of fruit and oak. $49 Australian Wine Companion, 2011combination of dark cherries,chocolate, spices and olives. $39 Berton Vineyard www.dolanfamilywines.com.auYelland & Papps Divine High Eden BonsaiBarossa Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHA big tannic wine with lovely, A hot, leathery, oak-driven winelifted, bright meaty/prune- with soy/plum-like characterslike varietal fruit characters and loads of tannins. $60balanced with powerful oaksitting in the background. $75 SHIRAZChateau Tanunda 2008 & OLDERGrand Barossa Shiraz2009 HHH1/2 29 TASTEDA beautifully made, new-age 21 AWARDEDstyle of shiraz - all chocolatyand cherry-like. Has finesse Another outstanding class.and balance. $20 “There are two distinct stylesRosenvale Vineyards from 2008 - before the heatEstate Barossa Shiraz and after the heat, with the2009 HHH1/2 former offering some greatFirm and fleshy style with wines with richness andsavoury meaty aromas and balance. The ‘07s, from awell-balanced palate showing drought year, have dried out.an excellent structure. $24 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 87

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYSaltram Mamre Brook Lou Miranda Estate 100Barossa Shiraz Year Old Vines Barossa2008 HHHHH Old Vine Shiraz 2008 HHHA beautiful deep, red/ An old-fashioned, oaky style ofpurple shiraz with fabulous shiraz with sweet, chocolatyconcentration of dark, sweet plum fruit underneath. $74.95fruits, layered with spicy oak. Yalumba PatchworkPalate has a dense texture, Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHplenty of length and some Ripe and rich chocolate/fruit-warmth. 5+ $35 Dolan Barossa Shiraz cake characters with measured 2008 HHHHH oak and firm tannins. $21.95 A tannic youth with a beautiful Jacob’s Creek Reserve core of spicy red and black Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH fruits and some great oak, Firm, tight and tannic with with the acid balance “spot subdued, fruity/licorice on”. The flavours just keep on aromas and chocolate/plum and on long after the wine has flavours. $17.99 gone. 5+ $49 The Colonial Estate Explorateur Barossa Wolf Blass God’s Hill Menzel Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH Platinum Label Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHH Nicely balanced wine. Great Shiraz 2008 HHHHH A big hit of tarry, leathery, length of fleshy fruit, tannic but “Simple stunning wine,” chocolaty and prune-like not overly - oak evident but not declared one judge with a huge characters on the nose with dominant. $35 hit of sweet, ripe fruit showing an oaky palate carrying a solid, Basedow Barossa amazing length and richness, and dark, varietal fruit core. $43 Shiraz 2007 HHH supported by well-matched oak Chateau Tanunda Complex wine close to its with lovely ripe tannins. $160 The Everest Shiraz peak. Leathery/tobacco 2008 HHHH characters mingle with berriesRoss Barossa Jacob’s Creek A delightful complexity of and spices. $25Shiraz 2008 HHHHH St Hugo Barossa gamey, peppery aromas and RockBare Barossa BabeA lovely wine smelling of Shiraz 2008 HHHH some cooked, candied, fruit Shiraz 2007 HHHolives, blackberries and cherry Still a fresh and youthful wine flavours with an abundance of Nice tarry and leathery agedliqueur with some meaty with attractive dark, spicy, oak in support. $160 characters layered with earthynuances. Palate offers a big, cherry and plum fruit and firm Richmond Grove Limited fruit and sweet oak. $39.95lingering mouthful of dark, oak tannins. It has balance, Release Barossa Shiraz Balthazar of the Barossaspicy fruit, oak and balancing poise and elegance. $49.99 2008 HHH1/2 Barossa Shiraz 2007 HHHacidity. $18 Saltram No. 1 Barossa A great wine with lovely poise A good wine for its year. Shiraz 2006 HHHH and balance. Savoury nuances Savoury, tarry and leathery withThorn-Clarke William A huge wine with everything to the nose and long, soft, spicy development. $49Randell Barossa Shiraz big - big oak characters, a big savoury palate. $ Wolf Blass Platinum Label spicy hit, big varietal, plum- Berton Vineyard Barossa Shiraz 2007 HHH like fruit and a huge tannic Reserve Barossa Shiraz Youthful, spicy plum and dark structure. $85 2008 HHH1/2 cherry bouquet, and a fresh, Smells like Cherry Ripe and vibrant, blackberry palate.2008 HHHHH fruit cake. Nicely texturedSuper rich and oaky - “Not for palate - slightly hot with long, 3-5 $160the feint hearted”, according dense, fruity flavours. $17to one judge. Dense, complex, Grant Burge SWEET WHITEfruit cake aromas and a huge, Balthasar Eden Valley & FORTIFIEDwarm, chocolaty palate with big, Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2chewy tannins. 5+ $60 A big Barossa shiraz that’s 3 TASTED silky, warm and flavoursome 2 AWARDED STAR RATINGS  with prune, chocolate and meaty elements on nose and in Chateau Tanunda BarossaThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of mouth. $36.95 Tower Moscato 2011 HHHexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. McGuigan Farms Barossa A typical moscato - very varietalAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 with soft, floral fruit that’s cleanprofessionals and are compared in peer Wonderful ripeness and and super fresh. $15classes by three judges. richness with dense, spicy Penfolds Cellar ReserveCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, chocolate/mocha complexity Barossa Viognier 2011a major mail-order business. - some leathery notes and (375ml) HHHCD Cellar door price. velvety tannins. $75 Excellent dessert style withCDO Cellar door only. candied apricot characters andSO Sold out. great acid/sugar balance. $24.99$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 144. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).88 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012



309 TASTED179 AWARDEDC H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SA massive tasting of Australian and New Zealand chardonnays, The Wine Society Trentham Murphy’swith this year the added interest of a dozen or so additions from Premium Selection Lore Chardonnaypremium French producers. It makes for an intriguing result, Hunter Valley 2011 HHHwithout fear or favour as all wines are tasted blind. Chardonnay Subtle citrus/oak 2009 HHH1/2 aromas, and good citrus/CHARDONNAY Banrock Station Marienberg Developed toasty/tropical melon and spice-like& BLENDS Chardonnay Limeburners aromas and full, tropical flavours with soft oakUNDER $10 2011 HHH Cottage Unwooded fruit flavours with crisp and acid. $10 Floral and pear-like Chardonnay acidity and buttery aged8 TASTED bouquet, and peaches 2010 HHH1/2 notes. $12.99 Willow Bridge3 AWARDED and pears in the mouth The lovely spicy Willow Bridge Estate Estate DragonflyLots of green, herbal with nice spicy overtones citrus and melon fruit Western Australia Western Australiafruit wines here which and fresh acid. $9 characters are in perfect Chardonnay Chardonnayare a reflection of the seamless balance with 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHHdifficult vintage - but Oxford Landing the oak, malo and soft Honeyed fig and Very delicate appleas one judge said: “it’s Estates South acidity. $13 marzipan on the nose characters matched byearly days yet”. Australia Chardonnay Buller Beverford with a sweet oak, creamy some subtle toasty oak 2010 HHH Chardonnay malo and stonefruit palate and tight acidity. $13.50Queen Adelaide Lemon and green apple 2009 HHH1/2 held together by crispSouth Eastern aromas with some toasty Loads of flavour here acid. $14.50 Deep River CentralAustralia Chardonnay development on the - this wine is a rich Cockatoo Ridge Ranges Chardonnay2011 HHH peach/oak palate. $9.50 combination of tropical Chardonnay 2009 HHHA spicy, oaky nose fruit, spicy toasty oak and 2010 HHH Nicely developed fig/and medium bodied CHARDONNAY buttery overtones. $13 Lemon butter and butterscotch bouquetpalate with a balance of $10 - $15 The Crossings caramel aromas, and and toasty oak/stonefruitoak and green melon Awatere Valley good length of melon flavours. $11.99flavours. $7.99 25 TASTED Unoaked Chardonnay flavours with a sweet 14 AWARDED 2009 HHH1/2 finish. $11.99 Yalumba Y Series Big figgy nose and a Sirromet Perfect South Australia Some good wines here complexity of smoky Day Classic Chardonnay offering great value bacony flavours, clean Selection Granite 2010 HHH prices. The best tended lemon fruits and some Belt Chardonnay A light herbaceous to come from the ‘09s aged characters. $14.99 2011 HHH and grassy style with with the 2010s and Leydens Vale Smells of ripe pears gentle green apple fruit 2011s “chasing a style Chardonnay and melons with similar characters. $14.95 rather than a vintage”, 2008 HHH1/2 characters on the commented one judge. Smells of spices, fresh, well-balanced CHARDONNAY bacon and greengage palate. $12.50 2011 Henry’s Drive Morse plums with toasty Taylors Promised $15 - $20 Code Padthaway development. More of Land South Chardonnay the toastiness on the Australia Unwooded 20 TASTED 2010 HHH1/2 citrus palate. $12 Chardonnay 8 AWARDED Smoky meaty characters 2009 HHH mingle with lemon butter Almost riesling-like A wide variation of styles aromas and lovely fresh aromas of green apples from a cooler vintage, and crisp citrus flavours and lemon fizz but has ranging from the lighter fill the mouth. $12 sweet, tropical fruit bodied, fresh and lively flavours. $13 wines to the riper, rich and sweaty styles. Most were non-varietal at this stage but they are early release wines and the jury is still out.90 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

varietal tastingBalthazar of the Thomas Goss The Growers Shag James Oatley WarrenmangBarossa Ishtar Adelaide Hills On A Rock Margaret Tic Tok Mudgee Bazzani PyreneesBarossa Valley Chardonnay River Chardonnay Chardonnay ChardonnayChardonnay 2011 HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH1/22011 HHH1/2 A tight style with tart A delightful complexity Both nose and palate Lemony aromas withTropical nose with citrus fruit, nice oak of butterscotch/spice show lovely apricot-like some banana-like esterscinnamon-like oak and integration, good lees and oak aromas. Soft in varietal fruit layered and a ripe, tropical fruitfresh, spicy fruit flavours and zingy acidity. $15 the mouth with a lovely, with creamy, malo palate showing hints ofbalanced with good creamy texture and spicy characters and well- oak. Crisp acid spine. $15oak handling and crisp Brookland Valley lemon butter-like fruit handled oak. $17.99 Bimbadgen Ridgeacidity. $19 Verse 1 Margaret seamlessly balanced by Tahbilk Nagambie ChardonnayTrentham Estate River Chardonnay the oak. $19.95 Lakes Central 2010 HHHChardonnay 2011 HHH Singlefile Estate Victoria Chardonnay Delicate peach nose2011 HHH1/2 Smoky/bacon fat aromas Run Free The Estate 2010 HHH1/2 with subtle oak. Palate isBig oaky/peach bouquet mix with apples. Rich Great Southern Nose of butterscotch soft and long with citrus/and big soft and slightly oaky palate but has good Chardonnay and mango with a pithy, peach flavours. $15sweet, buttery peach level of fruit. $18 2010 HHHH peachy palate that has Blue Pyreneespalate with powerful malo Very lifted perfumed aged toasty notes and Estate Chardonnayand balancing oak. $16 Mount Avoca nose - smells floral and crunchy acidity. $16.45 2010 HHH Pyrenees Victoria quince-like. Creamy Complex European-like Chardonnay palate is a complexity of After Hours style with spicy toasty 2011 HHH ripe figgy fruit, sweet oak Margaret River oak, green lime fruit and Buttery nose; smells of and crisp acidity. $19.95 Chardonnay crisp acid spine. $18 mangoes and tobacco Jacob’s Creek 2010 HHH1/2 Hunter’s Jane with toasty lemony Reserve Adelaide Toasty vanillin oak nose Hunter Marlborough flavours and an oaky Hills Chardonnay and a soft, creamy citrus Chardonnay finish. $18 2010 HHHH palate with just a hint 2010 HHH Perfumed tropical-like of grassy aromas and Sweaty tropical Clearview Estate bouquet with a nicely flavours. $19 notes to the nose Te Awanga Hawke’s textured, peachy fruit Berton Vineyard and an interesting Bay Chardonnay palate showing slight Reserve Eden Valley oily butterscotch and 2011 HHH earthy notes and Chardonnay tropical palate. $18.90 Estery lemon fragrances supported by lovely 2010 HHH1/2 McPherson Wines and slight sweetness creamy oak. $17.99 Delicate pineapple and Central Victoria on the complex, yeasty Penny’s Hill The cream aromas with Chardonnay palate. $19 Handshake Adelaide a toasty edge and an 2010 HHH Hills Chardonnay attractive juicy pineapple Aged and pungent Sitella Western 2010 HHHH palate; plenty of acid. $17 figgy aromas with a big, Australia Unwooded Beautifully perfumed sweet, developed toasty Chardonnay floral fragrances mixed peach palate. $18.95 2011 HHH with ripe pear aromas Thorn Clarke Subtle stewed apple and fresh lifted citrus Sandpiper Eden aromas with hints of flavours layered with Valley Chardonnay cloves and almost a nutty complexity. Will 2010 HHH lemonade-like palate. $17 age well. $19 Light minerally grapefruit bouquet, and fresh and Taylors Eighty Acres spicy chablis-like palate South Australia with good acid length. $16 Chardonnay Ferngrove 2011 HHH Western Australia Delicate lemon sherbet Chardonnay nose and crisp, green 2010 HHH apple palate with subtle Nice flintiness to the oak/malo integration. $15 greengage nose. Lots of oak on the palate CHARDONNAY with similar flavours to 2010 nose. $19.99 $15 - $20 29 TASTED 17 AWARDED The judges found this a more consistent group of wines with more fruit- driven styles rather than acid-driven ones and also reflected a better vintage for the variety. March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 91

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D S Taylors Clare Valley CHARDONNAY Grant Burge James Estate Chardonnay $20 - $25 Summers Reserve Hunter 2009 HHHH Chardonnay Valley Chardonnay Powerful leesy 48 TASTED 2010 HHHH 2009 HHHH characters mix with 27 AWARDED A pretty, lifted white Simple nose - smells honey and pineapple peach bouquet and of lemons and green aromas. Excellent A wider spread of simple but very nice apples. Crisp citrus fruit tropical fruit flavours styles - and scores - sweet fruit palate with flavours mingle with seamlessly balanced by showing varying judges’ gentle oak and crisp the spicy oak and some the toasty oak. $19 preferences. The judges acidity. $21.95 pleasant toasty age. $23 expected more for the Mad Fish Sideways Barwick Estates Barwick Estates price but the better Margaret River The Collectables Margaret River wines did stand out Chardonnay Margaret River Chardonnay from the rest. 2010 HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Interesting and complex 2009 HHHH Ripe pineapple-like style with good hit Sweet and developed varietal fruit in balance of tropical/grassy-like vanillin oak/tropical fruit with some lovely dusty/ varietal fruit, light toasty nose and quite a woody spicy oak. Palate is light, oak and tight acid. $22 palate - “But nice in an old slightly sweet and nicely fashioned way”, thought textured. $19.95 one judge. $24.95 Geoff MerrillYarra Ridge Yarra Omaka Springs Allandale Hunter Ferngrove Diamond Wickham ParkValley Chardonnay Estates Falveys Valley Chardonnay Frankland River McLaren Vale2010 HHH Vineyard 2010 HHHH Chardonnay ChardonnayRich stonefruit varietal Marlborough A nicely balanced, 2010 HHHH 2008 HHHHcharacters layered with Chardonnay full bodied and very Toasty marzipan nose Attractive peach and fig-subtle toasty oak and 2009 HHH1/2 complex chardonnay. with tropical fruit like varietal fruit layeredcreamy malo. $19.99 Complex toasty Soft pineapple-like fruit aromas and a ripe, rich with toasty caramel oak. butterscotch nose. is layered with spicy oak style of palate with Very flavoursome andSelaks Heritage Medium bodied palate and creamy malo. $20 plenty of toasty, charry showing good depth andReserve Hawke’s with good varietal fruit, oak to match the sweet complexity. $20Bay Chardonnay balancing oak and zesty fruit. $24.99 Richmond Grove2010 HHH acidity. $17 Limited ReleaseConfectionery-like Hardys Oomoo Adelaide Hillslemony aromas and light, Adelaide Hills Chardonnaysweet peachy flavours - Chardonnay 2008 HHHHvery varietal. $19.99 2008 HHH Smells like a lemon Soft gentle lemon sherbet curd tart! Very soft andCHARDONNAY nose and spicy and gentle in the mouth and2009 & OLDER complex in the mouth - again with very lemony/$15 - $20 ageing nicely. $18 buttery flavours. Ageing Matahiwi Hawke’s very nicely. $21.9910 TASTED Bay Chardonnay Saint Clair Family5 AWARDED 2008 HHH Estate Marlborough Delicate floral bouquet Chardonnay“A more enjoyable and a full, soft, slightly 2011 HHH1/2bracket“, agreed oily palate with citrussy Creamy leesy,the judges. Showing acidity. $18.99 butterscotch-like bouquetdecent wines with which is echoed on thebottle age and a better palate with its subtlecouple of vintages. oak and good acid backbone. $21.50DAY 1 - JUDGES Steve Warrick Martin Verryt Wine consultant. Formerly State manager, SA & WA Daniel Swincer sales and marketing manager Grapeworks. 28 years Winemaker with Orlando for the Hamilton Wine in the wine industry, Wines for the past seven Group. 10 years’ experience from wine marketing, years. Has completed the working in McLaren Vale, restaurant advisor and Advanced Wine Assessment Coonawarra and the Adelaide tasting consultant in Course. Associate judge at Hills. Has judged at the McLaren Vale. Adelaide wine show and has Adelaide, McLaren Vale and vintaged in Napa, California. Hobart wine shows.92 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

varietal tastingHope Estate PinkAwareness HunterValley Chardonnay2010 HHH1/2Perfumed, lemon butternose and peachy fruitpalate with sweet,vanillin oak and hints oftoasty development. $20Selaks WinemakersFavourite ReserveHawke’s BayChardonnay2010 HHH1/2Some great smoky-likeoak characters that aresitting on top of lovely,crisp lime/lemonyvarietal fruit. $22.99Tolley Pedare Springton HillsMt Benson Wines EdenPadthaway Margaret Valley UnwoodedRiver Chardonnay Chardonnay2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHHRipe pears and quinces Slight marzipan-likeon the nose and tightly aromas and good flavourtextured, citrus palate length and persistence.with crisp acid spine. Has ageing potential. $20Has great length and Bethany Barossabalance. $23.99 ChardonnayBalgownie Estate 2010 HHHBlack Label Yarra Subtle spicy/floralValley Chardonnay aromas with crisp, citrus2009 HHH1/2 flavours and gentle,A crisp, spicy melon well-handled oak. $20nose and a ripe toasty/ Bird In Hand Two Infiggy palate showing The Bush Adelaidesome pleasant Hills Chardonnayastringency. $24 2010 HHHSacred Hill Hawke’s Unusual nose withBay Chardonnay spicy/meaty nuances2010 HHH and a rich, creamyGood, clean, easy drinking textured palate. $20style; smells of toast andbutterscotch with citrusflavours. $22.99Seville Estate De Bortoli GulfThe Barber Yarra Station Yarra ValleyValley Chardonnay Chardonnay2010 HHH 2010 HHHDelicate spicy lime fruit Grassy, herbal bouquetnose with good fruit/oak and quite complexintegration on the palate. and herbaceous in theDrink soon. $20 mouth. $20The Niche Lost Lake SingleChardonnay Vineyard Chardonnay2011 HHH 2010 HHHLight, grassy peachy A fresh, greener fruitnose and complex style with subtle, toastyvarietal palate tasting of oak and a slight oilyripe melons and oak. $20 finish. $20 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 93

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SOrlando St Hilary CHARDONNAY Upper Reach McGuigan The Babich FamilyPadthaway 2011 - 2010 Reserve Swan Valley Shortlist Adelaide Estates GimblettChardonnay $25 - $30 Chardonnay Hills Chardonnay Gravels Hawke’s2010 HHH 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 Bay ChardonnayButtery tropical fruit 31 TASTED A crisp, elegant wine Interesting “out-there”, 2010 HHHaromas, and soft and 18 AWARDED with a slightly closed style with funky aromas Excellent quince andjuicy in the mouth with a The judges found a lot citrussy nose. Quite full, and intense, steely/ apple characters minglehot finish. $20.99 of interest here although warm pear/apple palate minerally palate. Slightly with the oak, acid andJames Estate perhaps without the with well-handled oak hot on the finish. $28.99 malo. $25Reserve Hunter “wow” factor. There in support. Hot on the Riverby Estate Bird In HandValley Chardonnay were a number of wines finish. $28 Marlborough Adelaide Hills2010 HHH well worth looking at but McPherson Wines Chardonnay ChardonnaySome very nice there were also some Chapter Three 2010 HHH 2010 HHHpineapple-like varietal pretenders who failed to Central Victoria Smoky, oak-driven style Smells of tobacco, figsfruit here but there’s a make the grade. Chardonnay with big, ripe tropical and walnuts with a soft,tad too much oak for 2010 HHHH fruit to match. Quite a sweet oaky/tropicalnow. $23 Anvers Adelaide Delicate green apple hot wine. $25 palate. $25Clairault Margaret Hills Chardonnay aromas with some Robert Oatley Lochiel EstateRiver Chardonnay 2010 HHHH1/2 attractive oak notes and Craigmoor ‘AC1’ Mangawhai2010 HHH Spicy citrus fruit nose dense, sweet citrus fruit Mudgee Chardonnay ChardonnayFull, soft style with nice with attractive creme flavours with toasty oak 2010 HHH 2010 HHHcomplexity of citrus fruit, brulee characters and a and crisp acidity. $29.95 A stylish, elegant, citrus- A big, full-flavouredvanillin oak and nutty warm, complex palate Nepenthe Ithaca driven chardonnay with chardonnay - lots ofnotes. $24 with very balanced Adelaide Hills everything in perfect spicy oak matched withGiesen The Brothers tropical fruit and toasty Chardonnay harmony. $28.99 stewed apricot fruit. $25Marlborough oak flavours with a lovely, 2010 HHHH Seifried Nelson Yarra View YarraChardonnay long, clean finish. $28 Quite tropical on the Chardonnay Valley Chardonnay2010 HHH nose and a seamlessly 2010 HHH 2010 HHHA full-bodied wine with balanced, nicely Green apple fruit with A lightweight wine witha creme brulee nose structured, lime/lemon hints of spices and sweet, lemony varietaland combination of palate with some pleasant lavender. Good weight fruit, subtle level of oakpineapple and wood phenolic nuances. $29.99 and texture on the and crisp acid. $25.99flavours. $24.99 Sacred Hill Halo palate. High acid. $25 Dawson’s Patch3 Drops Mount Hawke’s Bay Setanta Emer Yarra ValleyBarker Chardonnay Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Chardonnay2009 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2010 HHHVery tropical aromas A well-made, old- 2010 HHH Pretty floral nose withwith sweetish peachy fashioned, buttery/toasty Estery floral bouquet lemony touches and aflavours and vanillin oak style with attractive and medium-bodied very flavoursome, sweetto balance. $24 caramel characters palate rich with creamy citrus palate. $28Alexandra Wine layered with sweet malo and oak. $25 Cumulus OrangeCompany Feraud’s lemon fruit. $25.99 Angullong The ChardonnayCentral Otago River Farm Godfrey Castle Chardonnay 2010 HHHChardonnay Road Marlborough 2010 HHH Big, ripe oaky style that’s2008 HHH Chardonnay Lovely ripe lemon and hot and fat and starting toLots of rich butterscotch 2010 HHH1/2 greengage-like fruit develop some secondaryoak characters mingling Nose an attractive characters, lots of characters. $29.95with fruit and the combination of hazelnut, acid and subtle malocreamy malo adding mango and herbs with creaminess. $25complexity. $21.95 beautiful floral fruit flavours and great oak balance. $28DAY 2 - JUDGES Bill Hardy Phil Reedman MW Corporate oenologist for Master of Wine. Wine Nigel Dolan Accolade Wines (formerly and retail industry Owner of Dolan Wines. Constellation). 28 years’ consultant. Formerly Formerly chief winemaker winemaking experience in product development for Wyndham Estate Wines places such as McLaren Vale, manager of Tesco stores, and group Red winemaker Western Australia and France. responsible for Australia, for the Fosters Wine Group Has judged internationally New Zealand and South and Saltram chief winemaker. (France and Japan), and been America. Has judging Previously senior winemaker an associate or senior judge at experience in the Riverland, and manager at Seppelt more than 20 state and regional Adelaide Hills and McLaren Wines. 10 years’ experience wine shows in Australia. Vale wine shows. as senior judge with national and regional wine shows.94 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

CHARDONNAY varietal tasting2009 & OLDER$25 - $30 Gapsted Wines Ad. Wnst.pdf 1 1/25/2012 4:05:43 PM18 TASTED Premium cool climate wines from Victoria’s High Country11 AWARDED VICTORIAN ALPS WINERY GAPSTED WINESA solid group with somegood scores comingfrom half the wineswith the other halfdisappointing the judgesas they were showingforward developmentwith flat, dull fruit.Riverby Estate Lawson’s DryMarlborough Hills MarlboroughChardonnay Chardonnay2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH1/2The lifted toasty oaky Fresh lifted complexitybouquet has layers of of tropical aromas andfiggy/peachy fruit and piercing intensity ofthere are rich sweet figgy peach-like varietal fruitfruit flavours on a complex flavours on the well-biscuity palate that is long balanced palate that isand quite hot. $25 soft, rich and creamy in the mouth. $27 LIMITED RELEASE SAPERAVI Sandalford Estate Reserve Margaret  River Chardonnay 2009 HHHH BEST OF VICTORIA A big, but very TOP 5 FINALIST WINE appealing, style of OF THE YEAR 2011 chardonnay with an WINESTATE MAGAZINE intense complexity of oak, creamy malo and BALLERINA CANOPY fleshy citrus fruit. One CABERNET SAUVIGNON for drinking now. $28 Hungerford Hill SomerburyTumbarumba Estates Jones BEST OF VICTORIAChardonnay Road Mornington WINESTATE MAGAZINE2009 HHHH1/2 Peninsula GEORGE MACKEY TROPHY NOMINEE -A very good wine Chardonnay EXPORT WINE OF THE YEAR 2011showing excellent 2009 HHHHweight, length and Smells like baked TOBACCO ROAD PINOT GRIGIOfreshness. Pungent, pineapple. A sound palatefunky aromas lead to a with nice length and GOLD MEDAL & TROPHYstylish palate with great balance, lovely stonefruit RUTHERGLEN WINE SHOW 2011marriage between the varietal characters and SILVER MEDAL & TOP OF CLASSfruit and oak and fine good line of acid. $25 VICTORIAN WINE SHOW 2011line of acid. $28 Jacob’s Creek Reeve’s Point Chardonnay 2007 HHHH An interesting wine with attractive secondary characters evolving and yet it is still amazingly fresh with good length of juicy lime flavours. $29.99 www.victorianalpswinery.com.au March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 95

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SRiverby Estate Wirra Wirra The 12th Saint Clair Family Sileni The Lodge CHARDONNAYMarlborough Man Adelaide Hills Estate Cell Block Hawke’s Bay $35 - $40Chardonnay Chardonnay 11 Marlborough Chardonnay2009 HHH1/2 2010 HHHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHH 30 TASTEDA complex style with A huge chardonnay 2010 HHHH Rich and balanced - not 17 AWARDEDripe creamy fruit loaded with powerful Described by one overtly complex butaromas and sweet, full oak characters and some judge as being a “well is a nicely-textured, “Some great winesflavoured, toasty palate very nice varietal fruit mannered and very polite flavoursome citrussy here but not the depthwith buttery citrussy sitting underneath. It’s wine”. Has attractive wine. $32 of quality overall,”characters. $25 long, well-balanced and sweet fruit, good oak Tamburlaine Reserve said the judges. We complex, and offers great and soft acid. $30.50 Orange Chardonnay should be seeing moreGeoff Merrill cellaring potential. $31.50 Credaro Margaret 2011 HHH consistency at this priceReserve Chardonnay River Chardonnay Obvious vanilla oak level. On a positive note,2007 HHH1/2 Killerby Margaret 2010 HHHH sweetness matched by the better wine showedThis wine is a lovely River Chardonnay Nicely structured style the tropical-like varietal elegance, poise andiridescent gold and 2010 HHHHH showing good freshness fruit characters. $30 retained freshness ofis ageing well but is A closed, young thing with and balance. Oak quite Trentham Yarra nicely ripened fruit.still full of life with lean, citrussy, minerally dominant but has plenty Valley Chardonnayzesty citrus peel fruit fruit, some lovely smoky of long, minerally citrus 2008 HHH Heggies Vineyardcharacters. $28 oak and creamy malo flavours. $30 Big and oaky with slight Reserve Chardonnay adding complexity. Slightly Houghton Wisdom oily texture. The palate 2008 HHHHHCaledonia Australis warm in the mouth. “It’s Pemberton has pleasant, yeasty, “This is a text bookLeongatha going to be really good,” Chardonnay ferment characters. $30 chardonnay,” said oneGippsland said one judge. $30 2009 HHHH Yalumba FDW7C judge. “A winemaker’sChardonnay Robert Oatley A well-structured, nicely Adelaide Hills wine.” It’s lean and2009 HHH Margaret River balanced, savoury style Chardonnay poised, firm and long,An oak driven style with Chardonnay with good peach/pear 2008 HHH and still very youthfultoasty age characters 2009 HHHH1/2 varietal fruit and pencil A robust, complex with lemon meringue-and marmalade-like Very fresh wine for its shavings-like oak sitting and well-constructed like characters and fineelements. $29.95 age with a good marriage on top. $32 wine. Some peach fruit minerally notes. $39.95 between some lovely oak Saint Clair Family and yeasty fermentWombat Crossing and nice tropical varietal Estate Twin notes. $32.95 Bay Of FiresVineyard Malloch’s fruit. Has nutty, mineral- Hills Block 10 Gartelmann Hunter TasmaniaBlock Hunter Valley like complexity and shows Marlborough Valley Chardonnay ChardonnayChardonnay good overall length and Chardonnay 2010 HHH 2009 HHHHH2009 HHH balance. $34.99 2010 HHH1/2 A very fresh, zesty “Very tight, fine andA light, fresh and yet Hardys HRB D648 Very good peachy/ lemony style - simple pure wine,” commentedcomplex wine with Pemberton and pear-like varietal fruit in but nice with an one judge, with lovelypeachy varietal fruit and Adelaide Hills seamless balance with abundance of oak. $30 colour showing beautifulbalancing oak. $28 Chardonnay everything else. Long Highfield green hues. Lovely 2009 HHHH1/2 and quite hot in the Marlborough minerally lemon fruit,Matahiwi Holly A fresh and very stylish mouth. $30.50 Chardonnay subtle toasty oak and aWairarapa wine with attractive, Sacred Hill 2010 HHH hint of creamy malo. $38Chardonnay flinty minerally aromas The Wine Thief A well-made, fresh and2009 HHH and good length to the Series Hawke’s Bay stylish wine with simple Saracen EstatesIntense colour with bright nicely integrated, well- Chardonnay tropical fruit and plenty Margaret Rivercitrus aromas and a lean, balanced, crisp lemony- 2010 HHH of creamy malo. $33 Chardonnaypoised, palate with some like fruit palate. $33 A soft, sweet style with Man O’ War Valhalla 2009 HHHH1/2sweetness. $25.99 plenty of creamy malo and Waiheke Island “A stylish wine,” slightly cooked characters Chardonnay according to one judge.CHARDONNAY to the varietal fruit. $33.99 2010 HHH Sweet lifted varietal fruit$30 - $35 Seresin Reserve Complex toasty oak aromas with mineral Marlborough aromas and hot but notes and a palate big40 TASTED Chardonnay balanced sweet fruit on flavour, showing18 AWARDED 2009 HHH palate. $34.99 plenty of length and A big, sweet, buttery Coopers Creek good acid spine. $35At this price level the commercial style; very Swamp Reservejudges expected more. developed colour and Hawke’s Bay Villa MariaAlthough there were showing some botrytis Chardonnay Reserve Barriquesome real highlights influence. $30 2009 HHH Fermented Gisbornehere and some very Youthful and minerally Chardonnaygood drinkers there with slight green 2009 HHHH1/2were also far too many characters on the nose Fresh, lifted and stylishthat failed to make the and buttery in the chardonnay with a faircut and didn’t deliver mouth. $30 bit of creamy malovalue for money. layered with nice tropical fruit intensity, tangy acid and some very attractive savoury- like elements. $36.9996 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

varietal tastingVilla Maria Clearview EstateReserve Barrique Reserve Hawke’sFermented Gisborne Bay ChardonnayChardonnay 2010 HHHH2010 HHHH Very lemony/citrussyA youthful, lively wine, style of chardonnaypale in colour with a with a lovely seamlesscombination of apple, integration between thecitrus and tropical fruit varietal fruit, oak andcharacters and a nice minerally acidity. $39touch of honey with Babich Familytight acidity. $36.99 Estates Irongate Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 One of the judges thought this “a decent drink” with light, crisp and clean lemony varietal fruit characters. $35 Michelle Richardson Central Otago Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 A good lean/green style with nice varietal fruit length and freshness, and some alcohol warmth in the mouth. $35Lucas Estate Sirromet SevenEstate Granite Belt Scenes SignatureChardonnay Collection Granite2009 HHHH Belt ChardonnayA full-bodied and very 2010 HHHstylish wine - pale in A sound, well-balancedcolour with tight acid, wine with juicynicely integrated oak pineapple-like fruitwith some hot phenolics. aromas and flavours. $35Ageing gracefully. $35 Sticks No. 29Clairault Estate Vineyard SelectMargaret River Yarra ValleyChardonnay Chardonnay2010 HHHH 2010 HHHA light, zesty chardonnay A lighter, finer, restrainedwith a lovely tropical but very well-made, drylift. Has length and white style. $35poise, with good depth Taylors St Andrewsof varietal fruit with Clare Valleybalancing acidity. $38 ChardonnayForester Estate 2008 HHHChardonnay Nice commercial style2010 HHHH with attractive varietalA lot happening here - aromas and soft, sweetquite a complex wine oak/fruit palate. $35with lovely tropical esters Glandore DPJand nice sweet oak. ChardonnaySoft in the mouth with 2010 HHHintense flavours. $38 Caramel-like aromas with big, slightly warm palate that’s creamy, oaky, nutty and complex. $35 March/April 2012 W I N E S TAT E 97

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SMarsden Black Forest Hill Vineyard Domaines Leflaive Stonecroft William FevreRocks Bay Of Block 8 Chardonnay Macon-Verze Hawke’s Bay Old Vaillons Premier CruIslands Chardonnay 2008 HHHHH Cote D’Or France Vine Chardonnay Chablis 2009 HHHHH2010 HHH A long, fine and Chardonnay 2009 HHH Smells just like a freshlyHuge, old-fashioned persistent chardonnay 2009 HHHH A soft, warm style with baked lemon meringuestyle with a funky nose showing a huge hit of An oaky wine with toasty development pie! Long balancedand interesting sweet oak but well matched by creamy MLF complexity. evolving and lovely, juicy palate with great textureoaky/buttery palate. $35 some potent, perfumed, Very good length, varietal fruit. $45 and with the lime-likeMt Difficulty Central pure citrus-like fruit texture and nicely Churchview fruit, crisp acid and oakOtago Chardonnay intensity and just a hint focused lime-like varietal Bartondale all in perfect balance. $652008 HHH of some mintiness. $45 fruit with some custard Chardonnay Howard ParkSimple, toasty, nutty notes. $42.09 2010 HHH Great Southernstyle with some malty Peccavi Margaret Mistletoe Reserve Warm, soft and balanced Chardonnaycharacters and a buttery River Chardonnay Hunter Valley wine. Quite fresh with 2009 HHHHHtexture. $35 2009 HHHHH Chardonnay tropical fruit notes and A lip-smacking fusion An excellent toasty and 2010 HHHH good acid spine. $40 of sweet, lemon-CHARDONNAY buttery, old-fashioned Quite a different style Foxeys Hangout like varietal fruit and$40 - $50 style of chardonnay that’s developing nicely White Gates Vineyard powerful vanilla oak with very rich aromas and exhibiting attractive Mornington Peninsula that just explodes in21 TASTED and flavours smelling savoury elements, lovely Chardonnay the mouth and exhibits16 AWARDED and tasting like a lemon creamy malo and a 2010 HHH attractive nutty/maltyA higher strike rate here meringue pie. Incredible subtleness of oak. $40 A light, unobtrusive wine complexity. $50with more consistency, length and balance. $45 Balgownie Estate with delicate fruit, subtleas you would expect. Elmslie Tasmania Bendigo Chardonnay oak and nice, creamy“Purity and freshness Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 mouthfeel. $45of fruit is a given here,” 2008 HHHH1/2 Fragrances of vanilla Moorillasaid one judge. “We Attractive toasty custard lift off the nose Muse Tasmaniashould see complexity development evolving and bright, low-key, Chardonnayhere but without the nicely here and merging varietal fruit flavours 2009 HHHwork that goes into it.” seamlessly with the mingle with zesty Perfumed floral nose big, zesty citrus fruit acidity. $40 - rather nice - withCloudy Bay smoky oak and sweet Churchview WGD delightful balance andChardonnay hot alcohol. Delightful SP Chardonnay length to the palate. $452009 HHHHH lift to the nose and long, 2010 HHH1/2Gorgeous, ripe, opulent complex palate. $45 Funky aromas with a CHARDONNAYwine showing incredible Wills Domain subtle, yet complex, $50 +length, great texture, Margaret River variety of tropical fruitplenty of complexity Chardonnay characters sitting 20 TASTEDand lovely richness of 2010 HHHH underneath the obvious 18 AWARDEDconfectionery-like fruit A simple “honest” oak. $40with just the right amount chardonnay with a lovely Peccavi Margaret Hardys Eileenof acid and toasty oak to creamy texture, attractive River Chardonnay Hardy Tasmaniabalance. $40 melon and peach-like 2010 HHH1/2 Chardonnay varietal fruit and a An oak driven style but 2009 HHHHH suggestion of oak. $45 there is sufficient fine “Perfect,” was what minerally, apple and one judge thought of pear-like varietal fruit to this wine. Fantastic, push through. $45 creamy, lemony bouquet Somerbury Estates and a zesty, minerally Jones Road palate that’s long, sweet The Nepean and has seamless Mornington Peninsula flavours. $65 Chardonnay Domaine Bouchard 2009 HHH Pere & Fils Lean and light with a Beaune Du Chateau vein of lime/lemon fruit Cote D’Or France supported by creamy Chardonnay oak complexity. $42 2006 HHHHH Spring Vale Full, creamy and Reserve Freycinet complex with pure, Coast Tasmania stonefruit-like varietal Chardonnay fruit layered with tropical 2010 HHH fruit intensity and Straightforward style perfectly matched with evokes thoughts of oak. A beautiful style of creamy vanilla custard chardonnay. $83.29 and bananas. $4098 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012

SARACEN ESTATES M WA RING SA BR eE STtRRIeVDE R IN AuStRAlIA3517 Caves Road, Wilyabrup Saracen Estates is located in the picturesque [email protected] producing region of Margaret River within Australia’s South West corner. (08) 9755 6099 The vineyard and cellar door are located in the beautiful rolling hills of the famed sub region of the Wilyabrup Valley. Here we utilise the ideal climate and soil provided by nature together with the best in modern technology and age old traditions, to enable winemaker Bob Cartwright to craft wines of the highest quality. Saracen Estates is one of the top producers in the Margaret River wine region and we have received many awards and accolades in our relatively short history. Winestate Wine of the Year Australia & NZ 2011, is Saracen Estates 2008 Reserve Cabernet winning “Best Cabernet Sauvignon” over 11,000 wines and 2000 Cabernet’s! Saracen Estates were proud to be one of the 7 Australian trophy winners and the only winner from Western Australia. The Saracen Estates 2009 Reserve Shiraz, 2008 Cabernet and 2009 Shiraz also made it into the top 5% nominated for Wine of the Year!www.saracenestates.com.au

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D S Dujac Fils & Pere Puligny Montrachet Cote D’Or France Chardonnay 2007 HHHH1/2 A beautiful and very elegant style of chardonnay exhibiting restrained lemony fruit characteristics. It’s perfectly balanced and brimming over with smart flavours. $85.99Sandalford Cable Bay Vineyards Olivier Leflaive William Fevre S.C.E DomainePrendiville Reserve Reserve Waiheke Puligny-Montrachet Fourchaume Premier Ramonet LesChardonnay Island Chardonnay 2009 HHHHH Cru Chablis Enseigneres2010 HHHHH 2010 HHHHH “Now this is class,” 2009 HHHH1/2 Puligny MontrachetVery impressive, old- A lovely, creamy nose declared one judge. Very good nose; overt Cote D’Or Francefashioned style with with aromas of almonds Lovely, smoky, opulent fruit with tropical Chardonnayloads of vanillin oak that’s and vanilla custard. Classy minerally nose and notes. Loads of complex 2008 HHHHseamlessly integrated palate, a tad hot and firm zesty, lemon palate that flavours running through Fine, limey and funky!with the zesty citrus fruit. with lovely varietal fruit, is layered and elegant, the length of the lovely, Great length of fruit lacedSome alcohol heat and and a bright and sharp and has a seamless creamy palate. Very with plenty of acidity andsome spritzig. $59.95 backbone of acidity. $56 flavour profile. $80 classy! $75 hot alcohol, and with a delightfully, creamy mouthfeel. $99.99 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne- Montrachet Chardonnay 2009 HHHH A quiet and gentle style with some pleasant, well-handled oak, nectarine-like fruit and nice lick of acid in the background. $70100 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2012