Winestate Magazine March April 2015

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $3,2001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $850 1994 $120 1992 $2701995 $110 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  A new1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  Australian1998 $160  1996 $260 blend.1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $4502000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated,2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 yet refreshingly earthy new legal2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 “blend” created by the former2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 partners of the respected South2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 Australian firms of Donaldson Walsh2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 and Fox Tucker.2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $5602008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 Our bold new offering is built on a2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 full-bodied foundation of vast general2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 commercial experience, yet overlaid2011 $110 2002 $500 with distinctive specialist expertise Rothschild 2003 $600 in a number of key industries and 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco niche market sectors. 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 It’s a winning combination that 1993 $550  1992 Not Released allows every client who opens a 1994 $340 “case” to get exactly what theyPara Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 need. So whatever your business1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 or legal objectives, don’t hesitate1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 to contact us.1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $3001881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  At DW Fox Tucker, every1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 client matters.1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300 1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $2501901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $3201930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $1051933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $1251939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $1801944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $7001947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280 Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $2001982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $8001983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico L14, 100 King William Street1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva Adelaide SA 50001988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 p: +61 8 8124 18111990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 e: [email protected] $240 1994 $5501993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 dwfoxtucker.com.au 2005 $1,200  1996 $3601995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $4201996 $370  1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $4201999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $200 COMMERCIAL | DISPUTES | INSOLVENCY | TAX2003 $190 2003 $294 IP | WORKPLACE | WORKERS COMPENSATION SELF INSURANCE | PROPERTY | INSURANCE2004 $170 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 51





78 TASTED38 AWARDEDROSÉHas the time for rosé come around again? Often promoted as Gapsted Tobaccothe ideal drink for Australia’s hot climate rosé, with its often Road King Valleyvibrant pink colour, immediately catch the eye! Great to see Sangiovese Roséthe trend towards dry rosés, with few having the unbalanced 2014 HHHHsweetness of the past. Nose is an interesting complexity of herbal,Rosé Luna Rosa Central Rosé Polka Dot Temp- berries and spices. Goodunder $15 Ranges Rosado $15 - $20 Tress Clare Valley fruit expression on the 2014 HHH1/2 Tempranillo Rosé palate. Perfect residual6 TASTED A subtle elegant style. 36 TASTED 2014 HHHH sugar/acid balance. $162 AWARDED Lifted and floral on 14 AWARDED Intriguing nose; very Lawson’s Dry Hills the nose. Fresh and subtle floral fragrances Marlborough PinotA small class with too savoury on the palate A mixed bag but the with very nicely Noir Rosémany wines that were with good acid/sugar judges were pleased balanced palate - more 2014 HHH1/2lacking freshness, balance. $14.99 there were few savoury than sweet. Be Bright pink and smellingwere unbalanced or Peter Lehmann disasters. A range of good with food. $18 of strawberries with ahad excessive residual Art ‘n’ Soul Barossa spicy, savoury wines nice juicy palate showingsugar. There were a Rosé 2014 HHH and sweeter fresh and some complexity andcouple of nice examples Lovely pale pink with fruity styles. “It is great balancing acidity. $18 NZshowing freshness and delicate aromas and a to see experimentation Bendbrook Wineslightness of flavour to relatively crisp dry palate here and winemakers Cracklin’ Roseybe expected in this with gentle flavours. $14 making designated rosé Adelaide Hills Roséprice bracket. wines rather than being 2014 HHH1/2 afterthoughts.” Lifted and floral on the nose. Nice ripe fruit weight on palate with the residual sugar balanced by the acid. $19.9054 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

varietal tastingGomersal Wines Sandalford Knee Deep Wines Saddler’s Creek Turkey Flat BarossaBarossa Valley Shiraz Margaret River Rosé Margaret River Wines Wheels Valley RoséRosé 2014 HHH 2014 HHH Shiraz Rosé 2014 Hunter Valley Rosé 2014 HHHVibrant pink with simple Big lift of cherry and HHHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 Floral confectionery noseconfectionery nose apple blossom aromas. A very nice, drier, bright A nicely balanced with spicy notes andand sweet fruit palate Some sweetness, some vibrant pink wine with complexity of herbal, simple lolly palate withshowing good level of complexity fills the intriguing spicy/herbal spicy and cherry fruit good acid spine. $21.99acidity. $15 palate. $19.95 red fruit aromas and a characters on nose and Seville EstateRichard Hamilton soft, giving, palate with palate and showing a The Barber YarraGida’s McLaren Wild Oats Mudgee delicate flavours wrapped floral lift. $24 Valley Shiraz RoséVale Merlot Rosé Sangiovese Rosé in zingy acidity. $22 Gartelmann 2014 HHH2014 HHH 2013 HHH Delatite Wines Upper Veronica Hunter Complex nose - out ofA strawberry and Creamy bouquet-like Goulburn Shiraz Valley Rosé left field with aromascream nose and rich, burnt figs. Good fresh Rosé 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH of figs and herbs.sweet palate but not fruit flavours with nice Savoury oaky style some A pretty nose; subtle Flavoursome palate.overpowering. Some balance of acid. $17.95 strawberries and cream floral/strawberry aromas. Good food wine. $22spiciness. $15.50 on the nose and soft Delicate fruit palate with Rosenvale BarossaMount Riley Limited Langmeil Bella raspberry complexity on spicy herbal touches. $20 Rosé 2014 HHHRelease The Bonnie Rouge Barossa the palate. Good food Pale pink wine withMarlborough Rosé Cabernet Rosé wine. $20 K1 by Geoff Hardy lifted floral aromas2014 HHH 2013 HHH La Bise La Petite Adelaide Hills Rosé and sweetness on theSpicy, slightly savoury Fresh fruity style, Frais Adelaide Hills 2014 HHH flavoursome palate butaromas which follow has sweetness but Rosé 2014 HHH1/2 A very nice delicate not over-the-top. $24through to the slightly not overpowering. Ripe developing aromas style with a balanced Delatite Winesfloral palate. $17.95 Perfectly balanced with and light well-balanced complexity of spicy Upper GoulburnClaymore Whole the acid. $18.99 palate with some fruit, residual sugar and Pinot Noir RoséLotta Love Rosé residual sugar but acidity. $20 2013 HHH2014 HHH Wise Wine Frankland balanced by plenty of Delicate musky berryStrawberry bouquet and River Grenache Rosé acidity. $20 bouquet. Good fruitslightly grippy, bright 2013 HHH Beresford weight and a touchfruit, palate. Some A subtle spicy berry Handpicked McLaren of sweetness createsresidual sugar but not fruit nose and maturing, Vale Grenache Rosé subtle flavours. $20too sweet. $18 slightly sweet, palate. 2014 HHH1/2 Mistletoe BarrelPioneer Road “Nice wine.” $19.95 A complex earthy nose Fermented HunterLanghorne Creek with a rich, weighty, berry Valley RoséShiraz Rosé Rosé palate. Seamless balance 2013 HHH2014 HHH $20-$25 between the sweetness Interesting wine.Nice nose; interesting and acidity. $21.99 Spicy leathery edge tored berry/herbal aromas. 24 TASTED Scion Rutherglen the cherry nose andPalate is balanced, 13 AWARDED Rosé 2014 HHH1/2 mouthfilling sweettextured and sweet. $18 Light strawberry cherry flavours. $22Cumulus Rolling More complexity in bouquet and an elegantCool Climate Pink this class with more drier style palate withCentral Ranges Rosé natural fruit weight and powerful acid but has2014 HHH sweetness coming the fruit weight to backSubtle stalky raspberry through rather than it. $22aromas. Some added sugar. The judgescomplexity on the noted there were morepalate - mostly savoury interesting savourycharacters. $18.99 overtones with a better balance of acid.Geoff Thompson Sam Watkins judgesWinemaker Lodestar Winemaker Boar's Rock Winerywines. Formerly and Adelaide Winemakers. Paul Kernichsenior winemaker at Formerly winemaker at Wynns, Senior Winemaker atMcPherson wines, Philip Shaw and Seppeltsfield Angove’s wines. HasNagambie and prior wineries. Has vintaged in judged at the LimestoneGeneral Manager at Portugal and Napa Valley. Coast, Riverland &Fuse Wine Services. Associate judge at the Royal Swan Hill Wine Shows.Assistant judge at Adelaide and Langhorne Creek Previously winemaker atRutherglen wine show. wine shows. Stonehaven (Limestone Coast) and Berri Estates. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 55

ROSÉRosé Laurance of Gralyn Estate Maximus SaigneeOver $25 Margaret River Margaret River Rosé McLaren Vale Rosé Margaret River 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH12 TASTED Grenache Rosé Punchy red fruit on the Musky and complex on9 AWARDED 2014 HHHH nose and a rich, sweet, the nose. Interesting Pretty strawberry berry-driven palate that’s palate; good fruit weightA strong class with bouquet and a delicate developing some nice and balancing acidity. $30more individuality and palate with seamlessly complexity. $35 Ernest Schuetzcomplexity and less balanced bright juicy Foxeys Hangout Estate Wines Saintwines propped up flavours supported by a Mornington XIII Mudgee Roséwith residual sugar. zingy acid backbone. $27 Peninsula Rosé 2013 HHHThe judges had their Bird in Hand Adelaide 2014 HHH Complex spicyfavourites based on levels Hills Pinot Noir Rosé Slightly smoky secondary charactersof dryness, spiciness or 2014 HHH1/2 complexity to the developing on the nosesavouriness versus floral The nose is an raspberry nose and good with well-balancedand fruity. “A safe bet elegance of fresh balance between berry complex flavours. $27across the board.” strawberries and fruit, sugar and acid. $25 cream. The palate is Rockford Alicante Hahndorf Hill Winery light and refreshing Bouchet Barossa Zsa Zsa Adelaide with delicate crisp Valley Rosé Hills Zweigelt Rosé flavours. $25 2014 HHH 2014 HHHH1/2 Reschke Pierre De Big earthy/spicy red berry A mature complex style - Ronsard Coonawarra nose. Palate quite sweet more savoury than sweet Merlot Rosé but has good acid level with an earthy stonefruit- 2014 HHH1/2 to balance it. $25.99 like bouquet and intriguing A relatively sweet style - complexity of floral/herbal/ but well done. Has floral fruit flavours. Great crisp fragrances and good acid spine. $25 flavour intensity on quite a simple palate. $25Your product delivered around the globeWith two thirds of our wine products now being sent overseas,wine producers are finding that to expand their business meanstaking that step to exporting.Venturing into the export market can be an exciting opportunityfilled with enormous potential. With product certification, morecomplex timeframes and every country having unique importingrequirements, Mainfreight can help navigate through thecomplex international market.We are a global supply chain leader with over 230 branchesaround the world. Mainfreight partners with you to provide a fullspectrum of international forwarding (packaged and bulk tanks),air freight, sea freight, warehousing and domestic transportservices in and out of the most dynamic economies in theworld.Reduce your export worries and streamline your next shippingproject by chatting to one of our team today. Adelaide Brisbane Melbourne Sydney Perth08 8300 5555 07 3638 3900 03 9330 6000 02 9384 7900 08 6254 5300 mainfreight.com www.facebook.com/mainfreight @MainfreightLtd56 Wine AWdverIt NhalEf paSgeT.inAddT1E March/April 2015 5/02/2015 10:13:39 AM



travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINcentral & western victoriaDRIFT INTO LUXURY within walking distance of all the restaurants HEAVEN IN HEALESVILLE and pubs. Opened in December 2013, it isTHERE can be few seaside towns as pretty part boutique hotel, part bed and breakfast, HUT on the Hill bills itself as one of the mostas Port Fairy at the far end of Victoria’s Great and part furnished apartment with colourful luxurious places to stay in the HealesvilleOcean Rd. A long-time summer holiday motifs, salvaged timber and bathrooms region. Ideal for those who want to get awayfavourite for farming families and Melbourne decorated with Japanese tiles. from it all but still have cellar doors nearby, Huthigh-flyers, this little gem of a town is on the Hill is set on 70ha with a flock of merinofamous for its annual folk festival. Port Fairy Suite one, which occupies the entire ground sheep and local kangaroos as your nearestis popular with surfers, fishermen, cyclists floor of the original bluestone building and neighbours. The views are spectacular andand, increasingly, gourmets and luxury has exclusive use of the veranda spanning the country breakfast provisions include farmseekers. With a population of under 3000, it the front of the property, is just perfect for a fresh eggs, often from the owner’s chickens,is the home port for one of Victoria’s largest weekend away with a loved one. It features an cereals, fruit juice, choice of bread and milkfishing fleets and has been named as one of open fireplace, sexy bathroom with shower, plus bacon or baked beans.the world’s most liveable small cities. It is also solid stone bath and king-sized bed, alongincreasingly popular with lovers of fine food with kitchen facilities, a relaxing lounge area There is a solar-heated pool for summer,and wine, with dining options ranging from and that maxi bar with local treats. Fast wi-fi while the open-plan design features athe atmospheric Merrijig Kitchen (with one of is complimentary and each suite also has a stone bench top in the kitchen, which isAustralia’s most intriguing country wine lists), TV, DVD player, radio, iPod dock, bathrobes complete with dishwasher and microwaveThe Stag, L’Edera, Bella Claire, pizzas and and coffee machine. Drift House is like a mini while the outdoor barbecue area is idealcocktails at newcomer Coffin Sally or maybe five-star hotel with personality. A breakfast for alfresco dining.a beer or two at The Caledonian Inn, the hamper with eggs, bread, yoghurt andoldest continually licensed hotel in Victoria. muesli, (dropped off each morning) is a great There is a wood fire in winter and an way to start the day and it is hard to resist the ambience that makes it easy to wind down. At the Merrijig Kitchen sample delights like Yo-Yo biscuits found in each suite. For details visit www.hutonthehill.com.au.Skipton smoked eel on oatcakes with kimchiand labna; grilled quail marinated in miso There are some nice personal touches from SIX OF THE BESTwith daikon salad, local abalone and crispy the owners, too, like personal notes listingquail; or maybe char-grilled lamb shoulder their favourite local eateries and attractions. WHETHER you travel inland or along thewith a cous cous salad and cabbage roll. coast, the roads from Geelong to westernHearty, satisfying and clever food. Now Port While the front of the house has an1850s Victoria are dotted with small cellar doorsFairy also has accommodation to satisfy Victorian facade, the building is a clever mix offering a country welcome. Here are sixeven the fussiest of travellers - the adults-only of old and new - and there’s an outdoor pool worth popping into:luxury guest accommodation known as Drift for summer days - although the beach is justHouse. This beautifully restored old home a short walk away. Drift House was recently Basalt: Shane Clancey farms biodynamicallyjust a block from the water has four luxurious the winner of the best luxury accommodation at his vineyard at Killarney, outside Port Fairy.suites in different styles. It is beautifully award at the RACV Victorian Tourism Awards His rustic cellar door serves delicious snackfurnished and equipped (think a maxi bar of for 2014. Drift House, 98 Gipps St, Port Fairy; morsels and offers tastings at weekends.gourmet treats rather than a mini bar) and phone 0439 969 281. www.drifthouse.com. Don’t miss his 2014 riesling. au. Rates start from $345 per night. Brown Magpie: This 9ha vineyard at Modewarre, outside Geelong on the Surf Coast, is one of the most highly rated in the region, with a range of styles on offer. Try the Loretta sparkling wine and the pinot noirs. Dinny Goonan: A father and son team produce an eclectic range of wines at Bambra in the Otway Coast hinterland. Shiraz and riesling tend to be the standouts here. The cellar door is open daily over the summer holidays, otherwise at weekends. Blakes Estate: Husband and wife team Roger and Rosie Blake have a boutique vineyard at Deans Marsh that specialises in high-quality pinot noir made in tiny quantities.58 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

travelbriefsGosling Creek: Check out the dramatic views TRY THIS IN YOUR GAME chilli meatballs with salsa verde, a selection offrom the hilltop of this delightfully rustic cellar Italian-style wood-fired pizzas and two saladsdoor/winery complex at Murroon and enjoy THE FOWLES winery in the Strathbogie for $35 a head. Menu selections and specialslunch and live music on Sundays. Two very Ranges is on a roll, having been named here are seasonally based and change ondifferent rosés provide summer refreshment. Victoria’s top tourism winery for the third year a weekly basis. There are two outlets at 14 in a row and having become a member of the Armstrong St North, Ballarat, and 1771 Sturt St, Newton’s Ridge: A well-established quality Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia group. Alfredton. www.theforgepizzeria.com.au.producer near Cooriemungle, outside The Fowles Wine Cellar Door Cafe is openTimboon. The cellar door is open seven seven days from 9am-5pm, with breakfast LIVING THE GOOD LIFEdays during the summer months and the served from 9am-11am and lunch fromchardonnay and pinot noir are outstanding. 11.30am-3pm daily. There is also a range of NEW luxury travel package aims to showcase sweet and savoury dishes available at other the art of “Great Living” on the Victorian coastLAKESIDE DINING times. Located just off the Hume Freeway and Otway hinterland. Melbourne architect near Avenel, Fowles offers tastings of all of Rob Mills and acclaimed Victorian chef DanDAYLESFORD, home of dining icon The the wines in the range (sparkling, moscato, Hunter have teamed up to offer a two-nightLake House, has a new destination cafe - riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, “Great Living” package featuring luxuryThe Boathouse. The venue has capacity vermentino, pinot noir, shiraz, merlot and accommodation at Mills’ Ocean House atfor around 70 diners seated inside and an cabernet sauvignon). They can be enjoyed Lorne and dining at Hunter’s exquisite Brae,additional 50 outside on the waterfront deck with a range of antipasti and charcuterie, light at nearby Birregurra. Rising from a steepoverlooking picturesque Lake Daylesford. bites or warming lunches. Chef Adele Aitken slope overlooking the Great Ocean Rd,Open seven days from 8am, the menu creates modern European dishes designed Ocean House is a five-bedroom beach retreatoffers all-day breakfast, lunch and shared to complement wine and Fowles recently that can operate as one home or be dividedplates into the early evening. The seasonally- launched a food and wine flight called “The into two separate dwellings. With panoramicinspired menu, developed by head chef Gamekeepers Platter” to provide insights into views across the ocean, circular bedrooms,Christian Reuther highlights paddock-to- the art of game food and wine matching. The wrap-around terraces, a rooftop deck withplate dining in relaxed surrounds. Gamekeepers Platter contains four tastes of open-air bath, velvet soft polished concrete game matched to the winery’s Ladies who and the most stylish furniture, Ocean House Fresh produce is sourced from the owner’s Shoot their Lunch and Are you Game? labels. is a great getaway. Brae, meanwhile, is aVale Hill farm in nearby Smeaton, with a range modern restaurant set on gentle hillside slopeof other ingredients sourced locally, including On the menu think dishes like pan-fried in Birregurra. Since reopening in Decemberpork from Farmer’s Larder, Harcourt apple duck breast with grilled stonefruit and 2013, Brae has garnered national acclaim.cider, Holy Goat cheeses and vegetables from hazelnut salad, or local lamb cutlets with a The restaurant is the vision of chef and owner,Mount Franklin Organics. “The Boathouse will grilled vegetable and Persian fetta salad. Dan Hunter, formerly of the Royal Mail atfeature menus based on high quality, fresh Dunkeld. Each day he and his team sourceseasonal produce,” says chef Reuther. With a spacious cafe, shaded courtyard a selection of the highest quality ingredients“Think sourdough toast with our own jam, and children’s playground, the cellar from Brae’s own kitchen garden, local farmsVale Hill lamb kofta with walnut tart, lemon door hosts a number of live events and ethical, sustainable producers fromand bitter greens or our own crumpets with throughout the year. 1175 Lambing Gully Victoria and beyond. Menus are createdroasted pear, Istra bacon and maple syrup. Rd, Avenel. See www.fowleswines.com; on a daily basis with location in mind andWe will also offer house baked cakes and phone (03) 5796 2150. reflect a deep connection to the land. Thepastries along with our own sparkling mineral package options include Microflite helicopterwater, fabulous coffee and local teas.” The FEAST FOR THE HUNGRY transport between Melbourne and Lorne, twoBoathouse Daylesford is open seven days nights’ accommodation, lunch or dinner at8am–5pm. www.boathousedaylesford.com. THE FORGE pizzeria in Ballarat has attracted Brae, including wines, and car transfers toau; phone (03) 5348 2199. much praise recently for the quality not only of and from the restaurant from $2025 per its pizzas but also for its “feed me” menus. The person. See www.oceanhouse.com.au. Farriers Feast, for a minimum of eight people, Prices vary seasonally. includes house-cured meats like prosciutto and French cured ham, chicken liver parfait Above: Cuisine from Fowles Winery. served with home-made bread, buffalo Opposite page mozzarella served with pangratatto, chorizo Left: Ocean House, Lorne. and Meredith goat cheese arancini, habanero March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 59

CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA103 TASTED61 AWARDEDCEN T R A L & W E S T E R N V I C T O R I AAlways an interesting tasting, the wines of the two inland regions of Best’s Great Tahbilk CentralVictoria offer good Australian versions of French Rhone styles where Western Riesling Victoria Viogniersubtly handled. Those who held back on the oak were rewarded and 2014 HHHH1/2 2014 HHHHit was great to see the shiraz wines, marsanne and sparkling wines Spicy tropical Vibrant aromas of freshperform well as they have done in the past. fragrances with a lovely apricots and spicy floral lift. Palate is long, ginger. Good varietalSparkling Blue Pyrenees Blue Pyrenees Cuvee fresh and steely with palate with pristine fruit Pyrenees Vintage Riche Pyrenees Pinot tight fruit characters characters and balancing9 TASTED Brut 2011 HHHH Noir 2008 HHH and some residual acidity. $16.507 AWARDED Nice toastiness Herbaceous nose; slight sugar nicely balanced Michelton developing on the lifted menthol touch. Complex by the acidity. $25 Blackwood ParkA consistent class with peach nose. Lime-like fruity palate with rich Blue Pyrenees Central Victoriaa good mix of quality characters on the palate oak. $31 Pyrenees Viognier Riesling 2013 HHHHwhite and red sparklings. with fresh, tight acidity 2013 HHHH1/2 Big bright citrus aromas“A couple showed nice and a creamy finish. $31 Other White Subtle apricot bouquet with a spicy perfumedtoasty aged aromas Blue Pyrenees Varietals & with a light floral lift and a tight and crispwith a seamless balance Midnight Cuvee Blends lift. Some complex citrussy palate showingof acidity and fruit Pyrenees secondary characters a slight oily texture. $19flavours,” said one judge. Chardonnay Pinot 23 TASTED starting to develop on Mount Avoca Noir 2011 HHH1/2 12 AWARDED the creamy textured Growers BlendBlue Pyrenees Bright green wine with palate. Has lovely acid Avoca Classic DryPyrenees Rosé Brut fresh citrus fragrances The Rhone styles zestiness. $22 White 2008 HHHH2008 HHHH1/2 and good acidity to performed really well. Michelton Nice complex toastyNicely developed nose balance the intensity of “The better wines Airstrip Central bottle developmentwith lovely toasty sweet fruit flavours. $35 stood out. However Victoria Marsanne on the nose andelements. Palate is Blue Pyrenees there were a few Roussanne Viognier funky smoky flavourcreamy and complex Pyrenees Sparkling winemaking faults 2011 HHHH1/2 concentration on thewith some strawberry Shiraz NV HHH across the range,” said Lovely fresh soft palate. “What asweetness with good Hot-pink wine smelling one judge. “In these honeysuckle-like aromas surprise,” said onepersistence of tight of strawberries and warmer regions acid and a complex toasty, judge. $16.95acidity on the finish. $31 cream; some toastiness. balance is a major factor honeyed, marzipan-like Tahbilk 1927 Vines Charming tutti-frutti and those who handle it flavour profile that is Central VictoriaMichelton Central palate. $31 best reap the rewards.” well-balanced by the Marsanne 2006 HHHHVictoria Sparkling Mount Avoca Jack crisp acidity. $28 Lovely complexCuvee NV HHHH Barry Pyrenees Tahbilk Central Four Sisters Central toastiness to theGood yeasty complexity Sparkling Shiraz Victoria Marsanne Victoria Sauvignon lemonade-like aromas.to the nose and fruit NV HHH 2014 HHHHH Blanc 2014 HHHH Developed palate but stillfreshness on the palate; A complex intense dark Beautifully balanced, Grassy gooseberry has searing acidity. Yearsa little sweet but has the red wine with dark youthful yet complex nose and a fresh bright ahead of it yet! $45right amount of acidity spicy fruit characters, tropical fruit bouquet and varietal palate, simple Mount Avocato balance it. $19 good acidity and tannic a very well-constructed but nice with creamy Estate Range grip. $35.95 palate showing good texture and offering Pyrenees Fumé fruit drive with balancing great drinking. $15.65 Blanc 2012 HHH1/2 acidity and a lovely long Michelton The Bend Powerful herbaceous lingering finish. $18.25 Central Victoria nose. Good volume and Sauvignon Blanc crunch to the palate, fine 2014 HHHH fruit and well-managed An herbaceous, oak and acidity. $25.95 lifted, bouquet with a slight tropical edge. A lightweight but intensely flavoured palate with good line of acidity. $2260 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

regional tastingClarnette & Other RedLudvigsen Varietals &Grampians Riesling Blends2014 HHHRipe tropical bouquet 9 TASTEDwith a soft creamypalate - a tad sweet with 5 AWARDEDpineapple-like finish. $22Chardonnay “Many of these wines showed regional,8 TASTED rather than varietal,3 AWARDED characters,” commented one judge. “EucalyptThe judges commented and dry red charactersthat the 2013 vintage showed through.”was a difficult onefor chardonnay, notshowing the variety atits best. A mixed bag.Best’s GreatWestern Chardonnay2012 HHHHPowerful toasty oakaromas but has thefruit to match. Plenty ofoak and oak tannins onthe palate dominatingthe lovely fruit. Needstime. $22Michelton Central Grampians Estate DOLCETTO SHIRAZVictoria Chardonnay Grampians Grenache2012 HHHH 2013 HHHHH Style to compliment your CreativityA complex nutty oak Vibrant light red huesnose showing a light and quite a Rhone-like The wines versatility allows you to serve it with many foodsfloral lift. It’s soft, sweet nose, like blue cheese and settings.and peachy in the mouth and raspberries. Palate iswith lovely texture and rich and sweet without It can be served chilled on a hot day with fish, meats or spicybalance. $22 being over-the-top with food or served at room temperature in cooler weather withMount Pierrepoint good length and balance heavier slow cooked dishes. It makes a great aperitif.Estate Alexandra of fruit. $25Henty Chardonnay Dolcetto “little sweet one” is a dark skinned wine grape from2013 HHH the Monferrato hills of North Western ItalyToasty honey aromas witha floral/citrus edge. Oak Shiraz is well known for bold fruit characterised by plum,apparent on the tropical blackcurrant and cherry tonesfruit palate. $35.50 Luxurious fruit flavours, semi sweet with soft effervescence making it a brilliant partner with modern food styles. ALC 9.5% nobleroadwines.com facebook.com/NobleRoadWines March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 61

CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA Blue Pyrenees Best’s Great Mitchelton The Bend Sanguine Estate Pyrenees Merlot Western Cabernet Central Victoria Progeny Heathcote 2013 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2013 Cabernet Merlot Shiraz 2013 A bright brambly HHHH1/2 2012 HHH HHHH1/2 nose with a good A very complex cabernet Some cassis and mint Toasty oak aromas spicy lift and well- with a minty lift to the on the nose. Good fruit with good fruit structured complex blackberry nose. Leaner on the palate with dusty characters underneath. palate with a ‘coiled’ minty style of palate tannins. $28 The palate is rich and tannin structure. $24 with loads of berry ripe and brimming characters and ‘skinny’ Michelton Central over with complex fruit Grampians Estate tannins. Good cellaring Victoria Cabernet characters. Plenty of grip GST Grampians potential. 5+ $25 Sauvignon from the tannins. Grenache Shiraz 2011 HHH Tempranillo Blue Pyrenees Good rich fruity aromas 3-5 $24.95 2013 HHH Pyrenees Cabernet and nice weight and Grampians Estate St A complex minty/ Sauvignon 2012 richness to the palate Ethel’s Grampians menthol bouquet and HHH1/2 with a fine tannin Shiraz 2013 HHHH a palate that is soft, A distinctive cooler structure. $22 Distinctive peppermint sweet and juicy in the climate cabernet characters on the nose mouth. $28 showing good varietal Shiraz 2013 and lovely fruit intensity fruit weight supported across the whole length Cabernet by a tight tannin 13 TASTED of the palate. Savoury/ Sauvignon structure. $24 8 AWARDED gamey tannins. $50 & Blends Garners HeritageMontara Grampians Blue Pyrenees The judges found this Wine StrathbogiePinot Noir 14 TASTED Richardson Pyrenees to be a consistent, Ranges Shiraz2013 HHHH 8 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon solid group of wines. 2013 HHH1/2Very varietal nose with 2012 HHH “The heat mid-March Lovely purple hues,nice earthy/funkiness One judge noted that Very varietal nose with 2013 stressed some bright spicy fruit noseand a hint of mint. Lean, some wines were a herbaceous lift. The fruit and affected some and good core of ripelong and well-structured overoaked for the depth palate is firm and tight. wines,” said one judge. fruit flavours roundedpalate with good sweet of fruit. “However there Needs more time. $50 “However there are off with the tannins.fruit weight. $25 were some stylish Tahbilk Eric Stevens some stand-out spicyDelatite Dungeon wines showing how it Purbrick Central perfumed wines on 5+ $28Gully Malbec Merlot can be done.” Victoria Cabernet offer here with lovely Water Wheel Memsie2012 HHHH Sauvignon fruit richness.” Homestead BendigoA minty nose with Blue Pyrenees 2012 HHH Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2layers of toasty oak. Estate Red Pyrenees Lifted fruity aromas with Four Sisters Central Aromas of rose petalsSweet fruit palate - good Cabernet Blend hints of eucalypt and Victoria Shiraz and Turkish Delight andweight and persistence 2012 HHHHH sweet menthol flavours 2013 HHHH1/2 sweet ripe fruit flavourswith drying tannins and An excellent blend with slightly grippy Subtle, subdued earthy/ with tight tannins.crisp acidity. $25 exhibiting good tannins. $69.95 cherry aromas with a Needs time. $12 blueberry/cassis Sanguine Estate dash of white pepper. Best’s Bin No. 1 varietal characters Heathcote Cabernet Palate is savoury and Great Western layered with oaky Sauvignon Petit quite Rhone-like and Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 complexity. The palate Verdot Cabernet is ripe with black fruit Good weight of clean is long, elegant and Franc 2012 HHH characters and good lifted boysenberry/ poised with a tight grip Attractive blackberry grippy tannins. $15.65 raspberry-like varietal on the finish. aromas and complex fruit characters sweet fruit palate with with some gamey 5+ $40 ‘blocky’ tannins. $24.95 complexity. $25judges Travis Clydesdale Ian Leamon Justin Purser Chief winemaker and Winemaker and Chief winemaker and General Manager for Champagne Importer. General Manager for Mitchelton Wines. Judge at Principal of Leamon Estates Mitchelton Wines. Judge the Melbourne & Victorian in Bendigo. Has vintaged at the Melbourne & wines Show. Formerly with Brown Brothers, Best’s Victorian wines Show. winemaker at Deep Woods Great Western, Arrowfield Formerly winemaker at (Margaret River) and Tahbilk (NSW) and experience with Deep Woods (Margaret (Nagambie). Veuve Cliquot and Joseph River) and Tahbilk Loriot-Pagel in Champagne. (Nagambie).62 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

regional tastingWater Wheel 5 Sanguine Estate Michelton Crescent Michelton HeathcoteRounds Baringhup Inception Heathcote Central Victoria Shiraz 2010 HHHBendigo Shiraz Shiraz 2012 HHHH Shiraz Grenache Spicy fragrances with a2013 HHH Soft fruit aromas Mourvedre curry-like character. VeryBright toffee sweet with the oak pushing 2012 HHH1/2 sweet soft fruit palate.aromas and a pleasant through. Big volume, Aromas of licorice and Good acid/tannins. $22but simple, one concentration and toasty oak with a dryingdimensional fruit palate. persistence of varietal palate that is balanced Michelton Print fruit and sweet oak on and savoury and has a Central Victoria 5+ $20 the palate. $39.95 firm tannin structure. $28 Shiraz 2010 HHHWater Wheel Blue Pyrenees Sanguine Estate Good nose - a touchBendigo Shiraz Richardson Pyrenees Progeny Heathcote menthol-like with2013 HHH Shiraz 2012 HHHH Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 sweet mulberryNicely focused jubey A lovely lift of both spicy A mocha/licorice flavours on a seamlessfruit aromas and a bright and floral red and blue bouquet and a rich silky palate. $70juicy palate with good varietal fruits. The palate and quite syrupy redtannin structure. $18 is full of sweet jammy berry palate with Montara Chalambar flavours with nicely good balancing acid Road GrampiansShiraz & Grampians Estate textured tannins. $50 and tannins. Shiraz 2009 HHHBlends Streeton Reserve A typical old Aussie style2012 & Older Grampians Shiraz Montara Grampians 5+ $24.95 shiraz with a big core of 2012 HHHHH Shiraz 2012 HHHH Sanguine Estate sweet fruit and loads of25 TASTED Perfumed dark fruit Dark and chocolaty on Kindred Heathcote oak. $7017 AWARDED fragrances with powerful the nose with a slight Shiraz 2012 HHH peppery characters mintiness to it. This Spicy peppery cool Mount AvocaAn excellent class and a distinctively cool elegant oak-driven palate climate nose and an Reserve Pyreneesshowing the strength climate palate perfectly is still showing some elegant yet complex Shiraz 2009 HHHof the 2012 vintage. balanced, complex and lovely freshness. $25 and slightly gamey A nose of mulberry“These wines showed peppery with excellent Sanguine Estate palate. $14.95 fruit and spicy oak andrich ‘plush’ flavours with grippy tannins. $65 D’Orsa Heathcote Tahbilk Central a core of sweet fruitperfect acid balance,” Shiraz 2012 HHHH Victoria Shiraz flavours with subtlecommented one judge. Red fruit nose - slightly 2012 HHH tannins. $74.95 closed and subdued but Subdued nose with Blue Pyrenees has generous ripe underlying peppery Sweet White Reserve Pyrenees fruit flavours wrapped characters. Crunchy mid- & Fortified Shiraz 2012 HHHH in firm grippy tannins. weight plumy palate. Spicy berry bouquet Good cellaring. 2 TASTED shows a pretty floral lift. 5+ $24 1 AWARDED Good length of fresh 5+ $59.95 Mount Avoca Moats crunchy shiraz flavours Lane Avoca Shiraz One excellent with the ripe tannins in 2012 HHH example of a genuine support. 5+ $40 Lovely shiraz fruit botrytis riesling. seamlessly integrated star ratings  with the toasty oak and Michelton chewy tannins. $11.45 Blackwood ParkThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Mount Avoca Central Victoriaexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Malakoff Pyrenees Botryitised RieslingAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Shiraz 2012 HHH 2013 (375ml)professionals and are compared in peer A pretty lifted sweet HHHH1/2classes by three judges. fruit nose. Rich, ripe and A lovely lifted andCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, sweet in the mouth with luscious wine with zestya major mail-order business. greenish tannins. $49.95 citrus aromas showingCD Cellar door price. Michelton The Bend some marmaladeCDO Cellar door only. Central Victoria sweetness all of which isSO Sold out. Shiraz 2012 HHH echoed on the long and$N/A Price not available at time of printing. A bright, fresh and juicy persistent palate. $22 quaffer with subdued Contact information pg 136. spicy aromas and simple palate. $28 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 63

176 TASTED114 AWARDEDI TA L I AN & SPA NI S HThis is arguably our most difficult and possibly most interesting Pizzini King Valley Cantina Ripa Teatinatasting, where the old country wines meet the new world wines Prosecco 2014 HHH Don Feuccio D.O.C.from the same varietals. It is great to see what comes up in this Lifted floral notes to the Pecorino Abruzzoblind tasting with three expert judges. Historically Mediterranean nose and lovely full- Italy Cortesevarietals, with their predominantly mid-weight structure, flavoured palate with a 2013 HHH1/2perform better with food rather than in wine shows where they light ‘fizz’. $21.50 Sweet fruit bouquetare squashed by blockbuster wines such as warm climate shiraz with a floral lift. Lovelyand cabernet. If you are genuinely looking for alternative styles Terre dei Colli soft fruit palate showingthese wines are for you and offer a great deal. Ferdi Extra Dry a subtle residual sugar/ D.O.C. Vicenci Italy acid balance. $NAItalian Segura Viudas Aria Abati Regali Brut Prosecco 2013 HHH Cappa Stone WinesSparkling Brut Nature Metode Italy Prosecco Aromas like apple Murray Darling Tradicional Cava NV HHH blossom and green Vermentino17 TASTED NV HHH1/2 Fresh hay-like aromas peas with good flavour 2013 HHH1/210 AWARDED Pale lemon colour with a hint of citrus peel intensity and lively Youthful pomé fruit with lovely highlights. and flavours like peaches acidity. €4.5 EU fragrances with aThe judges found these Complex expressive and cream. $14.95 touch of yeastiness.wines were true to fragrances and dry Andreola Verv Extra Other White Generous palate withtheir style and varieties. palate with high acidity. Dry Treviso Italy Varietals & spicy notes and leesyThey were all clean Prosecco NV HHH Blends characters. $22and fresh and made to 3-5 $18 Fresh apple/pear aromas Le Buche Olividrink young with little Conte Estate with floral notes. Tight 13 TASTED Orhora Toscana Italypotential for ageing. Lacrima di Terre lively fruit palate with 10 AWARDED Verdicchio Viognier McLaren Vale generous acidity. $28 Sauvignon BlancAndreola Sesto Sparkling Lagrein Solid interesting line-up. 2013 HHH1/2Senso Dry 2014 HHH1/2 “Lots of flavour here Lifted cut grass-likeValdobbiadene Italy Intense core of floral with nice oily viscosity aromas with nice lineProsecco fragrances with hints of for food interest - of sweet ripe fruit2013 HHHH blue fruits. Soft, generous offering texture rather characters. BeautifullyGreen fruits and limes and lusciously sweet than freshness and textured palate; silkyon the nose and a zesty berry flavours. $20 fruitiness,” observed smooth. $36lively savouriness to the Terre dei Colli Ferdi one judge. Trentham Estatecitrus/green apple palate Brut D.O.C. Vicenza Verdejo 2014 HHHthat has a long lingering Italy Prosecco Cantina del Clean crisp apple nosefinish. $46 2013 HHH1/2 Castello Classico with hints of citrus and Clean youthful nose Castello Soave a savoury palate true toAndreola Dirupo and a savoury palate Italy Garganega the variety. $16Superiore Brut with persistent bubbles, 2013 HHHH1/2 Vinaceous ImpavidoValdobbiadene green apple flavours and A lovely wine - light straw Mount BarkerProsecco 2012 HHHH crunchy acidity. €4.5 EU colour with olive hues. VermentinoA well-made, somewhat Trentham La Fresh fruity fragrances 2014 HHHsimple wine but has Famiglia Maestri and some grassy Stalky herbal profilea lovely complexity of Frizzante 2014 HHH nuances. Beautifully to the complex nosearomas and flavours Very floral/strawberry balanced palate with and sweet apple skinwhich includes apple and nose; very sweet syrypy great flavour length and flavours with livelycitrus characters. $34 black fruit palate. A great persistence. €4.5 EU acidity. $23 dessert wine. $15 Spade Oak Vineyard Heart of Gold Gisborne Albarino 2013 HHHH Intense tropical aromas and tight dry palate with fruit salad flavours, a lively acid/mineral profile and a long lingering finish. $23 NZ64 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

varietal tasting Battaglio Asti Italy Moscato 2013 HHH Restrained floral fragrances and nicely balanced clean grapey palate. Crisp acid spine. €7 EU Ca ed Balos Asti Italy Moscato 2013 HHH Great pungent/spicy bouquet and fresh grapey palate with gentle ‘fizz’. Drink now. €10 EU Arneis 6 TASTED 4 AWARDEDGavi DOCG A strong group of youngLe Cedraia Italy Italian varietals showingCortese 2013 HHH the way with a texturalSpicy herbal nose and component lacking inlovely peach/floral the Aussie examples.flavours. “Screamingfor food,” said one Tenuta Carettajudge. €5 EU Cayega RoeroCantina del Piobesi D’AlbaCastello Classico Arneis 2013 HHH1/2Carniga Soave Italy A fresh wine withGarganega delicate crisp green2013 HHH fruits and bright liftedSmells of stewed fruits floral tones with subtlewith earthy overtones. spiciness addingToasty and textured on character. $31the palate. €7 EUTrentham LaFamiglia Vermentino2013 HHHNose developing nicely;smells of baked apples.Nicely textured palate;good fruit intensity. $15Moscato5 TASTED3 AWARDEDFresh, balanced Yorke Peninsula’smoscatos - great for award winningsummer! vineyardPizzini Brachetto Cordero diKing Valley Moscato Montezemolo2013 HHHH Langhe ArneisA light pink wine 2013 HHH1/2with very lifted fruity Restrained nose; subtlearomas reminiscent of toasty notes and aromasstrawberries and cream. of baked apples. PalateLovely creamy palate. is savoury and dry withGood acid/sweetness herbal undertones. $34balance. $17.50 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 65

I TALIAN & SPANISHBittern Estate Longview Queenie Heritage Estate Other RedMornington Adelaide Hills Pinot Granite Belt Fiano VarietalsPeninsula Arneis Grigio 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/22013 HHH Pears and green apples A fresh racy style; 27 TASTEDThe nose is bright, on the nose with a hint gooseberry-like nose 19 AWARDEDgenerous and lifted. of spice. Youthful pear- with citrus undertones “Some fantastic winesSome obvious like flavours with some with the flavours here,” enthused onedevelopment on the subtle spiciness. $19.95 matching the nose. $45 judge. “These showedspicy citrus palate. $20 Trentham La great diversity and were Famiglia Pinot Rosé true to their varieties,Carlin de Paolo Grigio 2013 HHH1/2 with savoury tannins,Terre Alfieri Italy Nose has some 7 TASTED structure and length.”Arneis 2012 HHH complexity with a 3 AWARDED “These varieties do wellA savoury wine with sweet lychee lift. Very in the right climate andcitrussy notes and yeast expressive floral palate These ‘Mediterranean’ conditions showing greatautolysis adding to the with a good level of rosés offer more balance,” said another.complexity. $NA acidity. $15 spice and tannins than Gapsted Wines the traditional shiraz HandcraftedPinot Grigio Tobacco Road King style ones. Great by Geoff Hardy Valley Pinot Grigio quaffing when fresh, Limestone Coast13 TASTED 2014 HHH bright and dry. Dolcetto 20128 AWARDED Fresh delicate style with HHHH1/2 aromas of pears, spices Pasqua Le Collezioni Trentham La Intoxicating fragrancesThis is where, through and dried herbs and Delle Venezie Italy Famiglia Murray of spices, cloves,different styles, the flavours to match. $16 Pinot Grigio Darling Sangiovese violets and blueberries.Aussies matched Kaltern Caldaro 2013 HHH Rosé 2014 HHH1/2 “Yummy” palateit with their Italian Sudtirol Alto Adige A hint of spice and some A young delicate dry offering a mouthful ofcounterparts. “The trick WeiBburgunder yeast on the nose and rosé with fresh fruit dark juicy cherry flavoursis to get texture while Pinot Bianco simple clean palate with characters, lively acidity with balancing acid andmaintaining integrity,” 2013 HHH gentle acidity. $17 and some spiciness on soft tannins. $30said one judge. Aromas like green the back palate. $15 peas with a hint of Fiano Art Wine PolkadotVinaceous Sirenya sweetness. More Temp-tress ClareAdelaide Hills Pinot sweetness on the floral 4 TASTED Valley RoséGrigio 2014 HHHH palate. €5.2 EU 2 AWARDED 2014 HHHA dry wine - true to the Bird in Hand Two in Strawberries on thevariety with intense the Bush Adelaide The judges agreed nose with floral touches.aromas and flavours of Hills Pinot Grigio this is a variety worth Nice fruit flavour profileapples and pears and 2013 HHH persevering with. It with a spicy edge. $18a fine tannin texture. Subtle floral/blossom can have structure Vinaceous SalomeGreat food wine. $23 bouquet and clean fresh and definition offering Western Australia citrus palate with a hint savouriness and Tempranillo RoséKaltern Caldaro of spice. $20 natural acidity and is 2014 HHHSudtirol Alto Adige good with food. Fragrances of roseItaly Pinot Grigio petals and cherries and2013 HHHH Art Wine Clare a dry strawberry andA delicate green Valley Fiano cream palate. $23fruit nose with citrus 2014 HHH1/2nuances and long Tropical notes combineintense citrus flavours; with floral nuances onsome spiciness. A the nose. Nicely balancedvibrant wine true to the palate; has intensity andvariety. €5.5 EU complexity. $25judges Sarah Andrew Marc Scalzo Joel Pizzini Owner Selador Wines. Senior winemaker at Winemaker at Pizzini since Certified Sommelier; WSET Rutherglen Estates. 2003. Has completed Certified Educator. Judged Previously worked as vintages at Leeuwin Estate at the Eltham/Daylesford winemaker for Brown in Margaret River and wine show and Heathcote Brothers Milawa Stonier’s on Mornington and Cool Climate Wine Vineyard. Peninsula. Three vintages in Show. Formerly on premise Italy have fuelled his passion work and retail in the UK. for Italian varieties.66 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

varietal tastingVigna Bottin Handcrafted Art Wine Clare Tenuta Il PoggioneMcLaren Vale by Geoff Hardy Valley Graciano Franceshi ItalyBarbera 2013 Limestone Coast 2012 HHH1/2 Brunello diHHHH1/2 Lagrein 2012 HHHH Spicy brambly MontalcinoDense complexity of An intense beautifully fragrances; leathery 2009 HHHHaromas; all beetroot, dark balanced wine with notes. Palate is fresh Beautiful meaty/chocolatyberries, olive and some spicy blackcurrant and bright with spicy/ bouquet and richlygamey notes. Lovely rich aromas and lovely sweet fruit and generous textured palate with somepalate with dark flavour dark berry/licorice mouthfeel. $25 savoury interest and fine,concentration and fine flavours with drying drying, mouthcoatingvelvety tannins. tannins. 5+ $30 Keith Brien Wines tannins. $90 Old Vines Central La Curio New 3-5 $28 Terra Mia McLaren Victoria Mataro World OrderHandcrafted by Vale Grenache Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 McLaren ValeGeoff Hardy Shiraz Mataro 2013 Heady high tones on SangioveseLanghorne Creek HHH1/2 the dark berry/chocolaty 2013 HHH1/2Graciano 2013 HHHH A youthful wine; fruit nose. Savoury fruit Spicy oak and cherriesDense aromas of quality and use of oak in profile on the developed on the nose withChristmas cake. The perfect balance. Floral palate. Drink now. $28 obvious oak on theacid, tannins and notes to the nose and beautifully texturedfruit are seamlessly lovely spice on back Agoston Carinena palate with its lovelybalanced on the palate. palate. $NA Spain Garnacha & chalky tannins. $21Has a sweet/savoury Syrah 2013 HHH Hollick Hollaiaedge. $30 Gibson Discovery Nose is spicy and floral Wrattonbully Road Nero D’Avola with a dash of pepper Due Lune Sicilia Sangiovese Barossa Aglianico and very more-ish Nero D’Avola Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHH1/2 sweet fruit/licorice 2010 HHH 2012 HHH1/2 Deep purple wine palate. 3-5 $18 A complexity of fruit Nose is intense and with fruit cake aromas and spice on the savoury. Palate has lovely and generous jubey Vinrock McLaren nose and lovely fruit concentration of coffee- blackberry flavours. Vale Grenache palate with refreshing like flavours edged with High acid. Easy 2013 HHH acidity. $39.99 dried herbs. $24.50 drinking. $19.90 Nose has subtle spices Geoff Merrill Cilento and pruney notes. Red Keith Brien Wines McLaren Vale Vinrock McLaren berry palate is opulent Old Vines Central Sangiovese Vale Grenache and juicy. $27 Victoria Mataro 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz Mataro 2008 HHH Lifted oaky aromas 2013 HHH1/2 Handcrafted Developed cooked fruit/ spiced with red fruits Chocolaty bouquet by Geoff Hardy earthy aromas with and a big flavoursome layered with plums and Adelaide Hills similar characters on the oak-driven palate spices. Round opulent Langhorne Creek palate. Drink now. $24 showing structure and palate full of sweet Teroldego 2013 HHH balance. $24.50 fruit with a chocolaty Inky concentration Sangiovese Nicholson River edge. $27 of tapenade/sweet Winery Gippsland fruit aromas. Lightly 22 TASTED Sangiovese Paxton Biodynamic flavoured palate. Grippy 11 AWARDED 2013 HHH McLaren Vale tannins. $30 Interesting funky Graciano 2013 fragrances and soft,Chiantari Terre HHH1/2 Carlin de Paolo The judges were a little mid-weight palate withSiciliane Nero Attractive light red wine Cvrsvs Vitae Barbera disappointed with this cherry flavours and lightD’Avola 2013 HHHH with a lifted spicy cherry D’Asti 2012 HHH mixed bag of wines. “Too tannins. $45Spicy mulberry lift to bouquet which follows Aromas of olives, dark many wines here either Cappa Stonethe nose and a lovely through onto the palate. berries, cloves and lacked intensity of fruit Wines Sangiovesefresh raspberry and red Good acidity. $30 chocolates. Drying weight or lacked balance, 2012 HHHfruit palate with velvety tannic palate. Dark with oak in excess,” Smells of dried herbstannins building on the dense flavours. $NA noted one judge. and plums with a leanfinish. $29.99 palate full of lifted red 919 Riverland fruit flavours. $25 Touriga 2012 HHH Byrne Family Cooked fruit nose Limited Release developing leathery Clare Valley notes. Warming palate Sangiovese 2012Stephen Paul with cherries and spice HHHH1/2Manager, Oakdene from start to finish. $40 Great concentration ofWines. Completedthe AWRI and WSET Myattsfield dark fruit, dried herbsWine Assessment Vineyards Western and black olive aromas.Courses. Judge at the Australia Mourvedre Richly flavoured palate;Victorian Wines Show, 2011 HHH long, generous andBallarat. Geelong, Gamey notes to the seamlessly balancedDaylesford and Cairns spicy nose. Dense and with lovely texturedwine shows. brooding palate with a tannins. 5+ $48 tannic finish. $24 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 67

I TALIAN & SPANISH Vigna Bottin Montepulciano Bird in Hand Whistling Kite McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Biodynamic Sangiovese 7 TASTED Montepulciano 2012 Wine Riverland 2013 HHH 7 AWARDED HHHH1/2 Montepulciano Lifted cherry berry A very dense 2012 HHHH bouquet and ripe cherry Excellent results from flavoursome wine with Intense purple colour. flavours with pretty hints Australia’s warm wine earthy/floral fragrance Subtle ‘Cherry Ripe’ of violets. $28 regions showing great and big firm palate bouquet and soft potential. And there were with great length generous spicy red Tenuta Di Capraia a couple of real stars and persistence. The cherry flavours layered Italy Chianti from the ‘old country’. freshness of the acid with rich oak characters. Classico 2010 HHH is keeping the palate Subdued chocolaty Cantina Ripa ‘shape’. 5+ $35 5+ $35 Teatina Don Feuccio aromas and nice Montepulciano Serafino Bellissimo savoury/tobacco palate D’Abruzzo Cantina Ripa McLaren Vale with good tannin 2010 HHHHH Teatina Spyro Montepulciano texture. 3-5 $37 Excellent deep purple Montepulciano 2014 HHH1/2 wine with dense dark D’Abruzzo 2009 A soft simple Le Buche Mememto fruit/oak aromas and HHHH1/2 commercial style with Olivi Toscana IGT some serious, intense Blackberries and spices lifted plum and violet Sangiovese Shiraz dark berry/licorice lift off the nose. Great fragrances and fleshy 2007 HHH flavours nicely wrapped palate length with mocha flavours with soft Holding its age very in mouthcoating excellent rich dark tannins. 5+ $20 well. The wine has tannins. Great oak/acid flavour persistence andRenzo Masi & C. interesting chocolaty/ balance. $NA seamlessly integrated WhistlingRufina Chianti licorice characters and tannins and acidity. Kite Riverland2013 HHH fine tannins. $87 Needs more cellaring. MontepulcianoLovely soft easy 2013 HHH1/2drinking style - deep 5+ $NA A dense rich cherry andpurple colour with dark chocolate style of winefruit and black olive with lovely lifted floralelements. $17.99 aromas, firm tannins and a good oak drive. $35 ALDILiquor aldiliquor.com.au Australia’s Best Value LIquor retAILer* Over 200 wine, beer and spirits are available at your fingertips from our every day range and exciting special buys. Order now on your smartphone, tablet or desktop for quality liquor delivered straight to your door. free delivery when you spend over $300† Delivery charges are on a per case basis. (†Excludes Beer and RTD’s. This offer is valid for selected Eastern Seaboard Delivery locations only.) ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18. On-line sales made pursuant to the Authority of packaged liquor licence no: LIQP770010278. *Roy Morgan Single Source (Australia), January 2013- December 2013. n=8,460. Base: Australians 18+ who specified the store they usually purchase alcohol.68 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015



I TALIAN & SPANISHHandcrafted Battaglio Barolo Tenuta Carretta Bittern Estate Heritage Estateby Geoff Hardy Italy Nebbiolo 2010 Garassino Mornington Reserve GraniteSouth Australia HHHH1/2 Barbaresco Italy Peninsula Belt TempranilloMontepulciano A nose of ripe spicy Nebbiolo 2010 HHHH Tempranillo 2014 HHH2012 HHH red fruits with leathery A serious wine with 2013 HHHH1/2 Prominent spicinessEasy drinker with subtle complexity. Fresh savoury and chocolaty A great example! Bright on the plum/strawberryfloral fruit fragrances savoury palate layered fragrances and generous ruby hues with a bright nose. Palate is dry, spicyand fine mouthcoating with cherry-like fruit varietal fruit on the primary fruit nose of and long.tannins on the dark flavours and tarry/earthy palate with a very fine blueberries and plums 3-5 $25cherry palate. $30 elements and some coating of tannins. $53 layered with violets. very fine tannins. The juicy fruit palate has Nepenthe AdelaideNebbiolo Carlin de Paolo San well-integrated oak and Hills Tempranillo 5+ €20 EU Damiano d’Asti tannins. $30 2013 HHH13 TASTED DOCG Barolo Gapsted Wines A pleasant cherry cola9 AWARDED Nebbiolo 2009 HHHH Limited Release nose and sweet dark Earthy aromas with King Valley fruit flavours with drying some herbal characters Tempranillo tannins. $19 and hints of violets with 2012 HHHHSome exciting wines some leathery elements. Savoury nose; some age Gibson Discoveryhere both from Italy Soft and generous in the developing. Dry savoury Road Barossaand Australia showing, mouth. $NA palate with tannins Tempranillo“Awesome promise”. and fruit seamlessly 2013 HHHDefinitely worth Trentham La integrated and bottle age Nose of leather and spicesearching out. Famiglia Murray adds complexity. $25 with vibrant juicy cherry/ Darling Nebbiolo Kakaba Reserve raspberry palate. Some 2013 HHH Adelaide Hills obvious oak. $19.90 Lifted floral nose and TempranilloBattaglio Barbaresco Cordero di good depth of cherry 2013 HHH1/2Italy Nebbiolo Montezemolo flavours. Excellent Spicy oak-driven nose2010 HHHHH Langhe Nebbiolo tannin/acid structure. with chocolaty notes andAromas of cloves 2013 HHHH1/2 a sweet concentratedand prunes lift off A lovely fragrant 5+ $15 palate; lots of oak andthe sweet fruit nose complexity of plums, drying tannins. $33showing some leathery spices, tar and violets lift Longview Saturnus Art Wine Claredevelopment; it needs out the glass while the Adelaide Hills Valley Tempranilloair! Big tarry earthy rich, plump flavoursome Nebbiolo 2012 HHH 2012 HHH1/2flavours are layered palate shows a powerful A complex savoury wine Aged leathery characterswith the massive grippy tannic backbone. $44 with sweet leathery developing on thetannins. €18 EU characters and hints of stemmy/brambly nose.Pizzini Coronamento coffee beans. $45 Ripe fruit palate has a 919 RiverlandKing Valley Nebbiolo stemmy edge and warm Tempranillo2008 HHHHH Sirromet Wild finish. $25 2012 HHHLovely deep red wine NE Granite Belt Glandore Regional Menthol characterswith intense lifted red Nebbiolo 2009 HHH Series Hunter Valley dominate the nose andfruit aromas edged with Minty hint to the Tempranillo palate; savoury fruitsspicy oak. Lovely sweet herbal nose and rich 2011 HHH1/2 underneath and grippyfruit flavours fill the well-structured gamey A herbal green nose tannins. $42mouth while the grainy palate with very fine with a hint of spice and Finca La Emperatriztannins coat it. Many tannins. $89 savoury chocolaty varietal Bicycle Rioja Altamore years left in it yet. palate with a powerful Tempranillo Tempranillo tannic drive. $28 2013 HHH 5+ $135 Finca La Emperatriz A savoury nose 30 TASTED Terruno Rioja Alta displaying plums, herbs star ratings  18 AWARDED Spain Rioja and violets which 2009 HHH1/2 follows through to theThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of “The better wines Nicely integrated ageing oaky palate. $22excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. here showed ripe fruit aromas and balancedAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry tannins and generous red berry palate withprofessionals and are compared in peer fruit flavours rather grainy tannins. “Drink upclasses by three judges. than the sweet sour before it fades!” $57CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, flavours of green fruit,” Vinifera Winesa major mail-order business. commented one judge. Mudgee TempranilloCD Cellar door price. “And they also had some NV HHHCDO Cellar door only. age to them adding Nose has suggestions ofSO Sold out. complexity.” cooked plums and red$N/A Price not available at time of printing. berries with a dry/spicy chocolaty palate. $25 Contact information pg 136. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).70 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015



I TALIAN & SPANISH Hollick Wrattonbully Paniza Carinena Tempranillo Spain Crianza72 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015 2013 HHH 2009 HHH A dry style with a cherry A simple juicy style of fruit profile, spicy oak to wine with a sweet fruit balance and prominent profile, plenty of oak and tannins. $24.50 grippy tannins. $22 El Toro Macho Utiel Sagrantino Requena Spain Tempranillo 4 TASTED 2012 HHH 4 AWARDED Simple spicy plum nose with a touch of spice and A consistent and solid good varietal palate. Well- class of wines showing focused tannins. $4.99 class. “This is the most Freeman Altura tannic variety in the Vineyard Hilltops world,” commented one NSW Tempranillo judge. “Watch the oak!” 2012 HHH A drying savoury wine Lou Miranda Estate with a chocolaty/berry Individual Vineyard nose and complex red Barossa Valley berry palate. $25 Sagrantino Stella Bella 2012 HHHH Margaret River Interesting aromas; dark Tempranillo chocolate and charry oak. 2012 HHH Nicely textured palate, Dark fruits and herbs on lovely flavour profile, tight the nose with mocha acid and mouthcoating highlights and warm/ tannins. $31.95 grippy sweet/sour palate. $30 Lou Miranda Estate Individual Vineyard Barossa Valley Sagrantino 2013 HHH Spicy oak bouquet and oak-driven palate with ripe fruit and powerful grainy tannins. $31.95 Heathvale Vineyard The Belief Eden Valley Sagrantino 2012 HHH Dark berry nose with a jammy edge and rich syrupy palate with firm tannin structure. $35 919 Riverland Preston Peak Tempranillo QLD Sagrantino 2011 HHH 2011 HHH Aromas of mocha and Subdued spicy chocolaty plums, developing dark aromas and intense plum flavours, nice oak tannic palate full of spicy and drying tannins. $50 red fruit flavours. $32

Ripasso/ Primitivo/ varietal tastingPassimento Zinfandel Your wine2 TASTED 5 TASTED packaging experts2 AWARDED 3 AWARDED“A most enjoyable class; A small solid class ofwines for black coffee drinkable styles. “A verydrinkers,” thought one of difficult variety to growthe judges. with its uneven ripening so viticultural attention to detail is paramount,” said one judge. Serafino Bellissimo Adelaide Primitivo 2013 HHH1/2 Dark chocolaty nose underscored with spicy black fruits and nice balance, weight and brambly length to the palate. 5+ $20 Grove Estate Hilltops Zinfandel 2013 HHH Interesting wine. Lovely spicy fruit cake characters on the nose and the length of the palate. 5+ $25Famiglia Pasqua HandcraftedIGT Passimento by Geoff HardyNebbiolo Langhorne Creek2011 HHHH1/2 Primitivo 2013 HHHA very concentrated An easy drinking stylemélange of clove, coffee, with nice balance ofblack fruit and olive black olive, strawberryaromas. Fleshy and juicy and violet varietalin the mouth with spiced characters. $30red cherry flavourslayered with gamey Amaroneelements. 5+ $29 1 TASTEDSanta Sofia 1 AWARDED We pride ourselves on workingSuperiore closely with our customers to deliverValpolicella Italy Santa Sofia innovative packaging solutions.Ripasso Nebbiolo Classico Italy2011 HHH della Valpolicella Our premium product offering spansBarnyard-like characters Amarone 2008 glass bottles, aluminium beverage cans,on the nose and simple HHH1/2 Stelvin® wine closures, display cartonspalate with good weight A very complex wine and corrugated shipping boxes.and length. $48 filled with an intensity of coffee, tar, earthy and Contact us to discuss how we can chocolaty characters. “A support the growth of your business. real journey,” suggested one judge. $117 +61 8 8521 4600 www.ororagroup.com March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 73

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINBarossa VALLEY & Eden valleyMODERN MAKEOVER A VIP mezzanine lounge is also part of STAY A WHILE the structural additions.SEPPELTSFIELD, which dates back to THERE are some wonderful places to1851, has always been one of the de Throughout the cellar door, Mintaro slate, stay in the Barossa Valley, the superb Therigueur stops in the Barossa and that is most of which is from Seppeltsfield’s 1888 Louise - a luxury Relais & Chateaux resortthe case more than ever with the opening cellar, has been re-used. Highlighted - and atmospheric Seppeltsfield Vineyardof the winery’s 115-year-old cellar door as wall features, fire place surrounds Cottage among them. But for those onand new Fino restaurant. The superb and stair treads, the slate has been a more modest budget Barossa Valleynew development, which also includes complemented by bluestone, ornate Apartments, a block of two-bedroom, two-magnificent new gardens, was opened brick window arching and Oregon bathroom apartments in Tanunda township,late in 2014 by South Australian Premier and jarrah timbers, which have been are ideal for family groups, or for two couplesJay Weatherill, and has been hailed as exposed after decades hidden under to share, and won’t break the bank. All theone of the Barossa’s most significant paint. Abutting the new tasting facility apartments have large kitchens with Boschgastronomic tourism endeavours in is Fino at Seppeltsfield, where David appliances, tea and coffee-making facilitiesrecent history. Swain and Sharon Romeo are serving a and everything needed for self-catering, small but locally-focused menu featuring while the lounge areas are large with The $3 million cellar door project starters such as Mayura station wagyu comfortable sofas and big plasma TVs andwas opened in considerable style pastrami, cauliflower and sprouted rye; sound systems. All bedrooms have reverse-with Seppeltsfield director and former and Kinkawooka mussels, Goolwa cycle air-conditioning, smaller TVs andprincipal cellist of the Sydney Symphony cockles, tomatoes and salted mullet alarm clocks, while one bathroom has a two-Orchestra, Nathan Waks, playing on an roe. Mains include Coorong mulloway person spa bath, the other a double shower.18th-century cello for VIP guests. brandade, Kolophon capers and endive; Everything is modern and comfortable, and Savannah Farm young chicken, charred the facilities clean and convenient. There The new Seppeltsfield terraced spring onion, wakame and sesame; is also a resort-style garden, a pool (notcourtyard, a result of a removal of 2500 and Hutton Vale lamb pastie, silverbeet heated) and an undercover barbecue withtonnes of earth, hosted the opening’s and sheep’s milk yoghurt. The eatery Tanunda’s hotels and restaurants just a shortofficial proceedings. With the design can cater for up 140 people at any stroll away. Online prices start from aroundled by landscape architect Brenton one time, with options ranging from the $205 per night - good value in a busy wineHann, seven Canary Island palm outdoor terrace, an area in front of the region where quality accommodation can betree transplants, bluestone terraces, open kitchen and Cellar 1 - a tunnel-like hard to find. So if your priority is spendingsandstone promenades and a large laneway. Here, 1860s wine blending your money on fine wines at venues likewater feature have been added to the tanks have been hollowed out to enable Seppeltsfield, St Hallett and Grant Burge,surroundings. Further elements of detail diners to sit under Seppeltsfield’s famed or dining at eateries like award-winninginclude Romanesque-inspired walling Centennial Cellar, which holds every FermentAsian (where I hear a new wine bar(matched to established Seppeltsfield barrel of Tawny (port) from 1878 to is in the pipeline), then staying here mightarchitecture), Barossa marble aggregate current year. be a good bet. And if you want to organisepavers and lighting, completing the wine tours, the apartments are owned bynew courtyard which will also feature as Having already established a presence Kym and Steve Brown, who also operatean alfresco dining terrace for Fino, the at Seppeltsfield, Jam Factory, South the award-winning Tour Barossa company.Barossa offshoot of the McLaren Vale Australia’s contemporary art and design Barossa Valley Apartments (08) 8563 1000.dining icon. studio, has been weaved into Fino’s ambience, with table furniture and www.barossavalleyapartments.com. Seppeltsfield managing director Warren ceramic tableware commissionedRandall said Seppeltsfield was “now especially for the restaurant.back to where she belongs, as Australia’siconic wine estate”. Expansive works to Seppeltsfield cellar door is at 730the heritage-listed Seppeltsfield cellar Seppeltsfield Rd, Seppeltsfield; phonedoor - originally a Seppelt wine bottling (08) 8568 6200. www.seppeltsfield.com.hall - were revealed on the night. This au. It is open 10.30am-5pm seven daysincludes a world-class tasting room a week. Fino is open for lunch seveninterior centred on a “pod” concept, days and dinner on Friday and Saturdaywhere individual wine educators are nights. Bar food is also available; phonelocated in four circular service alcoves. (08) 8562 8528.74 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

travelbriefsBACK BIGGER UP, UP AND AWAY CREATIVE COOKINGAND BETTER THAN EVER THE Barossa is the focus of a luxury four-day MARK McNamara, formerly head chef atLONG before there were wine and food gastronomic tour launched by Air Adventure Appellation at The Louise, has been enjoyingfestivals there was the Barossa Vintage Australia. With the first tour departing on sell-out numbers since opening his FoodFestival, which bills itself as “Australia’s March 28, this gourmet getaway links the Luddite cooking school at The Kitchenoriginal wine event”. Flinders Ranges, Clare Valley, Barossa and Studio in the hamlet of Greenock (diagonally the Coonawarra by private aircraft. Not only across the road from the lovely new Kalleske Australia’s longest running wine festival are guests able to sample a wide variety of cellar door). McNamara still caters andis back in 2015, showcasing 95 events food from indigenous produce to Australia’s designs menus for Barossa businesses butover five days. The BVF celebrates best wagyu beef, but they’ll also meet the his focus is now on teaching the basics ofthe rich heritage and gastronomic producers and even try their hand at blending good, wholesome cooking.pleasures of the Barossa and will run their own wine. Guests board the Outbackfrom April 15-19. Highlights include Jet at Melbourne’s Essendon Airport and He says he favours “time-honoureda decadent feast, an exclusive wine within two hours arrive at the renowned and techniques” over new technology andauction featuring bottles from some remote Prairie Hotel in the Flinders Ranges. culinary invention, and that the Kitchenof the region’s most distinguished After a low level scenic flight over Wilpena Studio, a beautifully converted shop front,wineries and a series of indulgent wine Pound the following morning, guests arrive has been created to give people real foodand culinary experiences, including at Clare Valley in time for lunch at Skillogalee experiences. “At its essence it’s all aboutorganised tastings, leisurely lunches Restaurant while the next two evenings handmade food,” he says. “We designedand breakfasts, buskers and live music. will be spent at award-winning Kingsford the Kitchen Studio to be a warm and invitingCelebrity cook Maggie Beer will star Homestead, the perfect base to explore the space, the perfect place to learn new skillsat the World Release – Willi’s Wine Barossa. Touring here includes a behind-the- and sharpen old ones.” The Food LudditeBar Paris poster event and other guest scenes walk through historic Seppeltsfield, Kitchen Studio, run by McNamara and hisstars will include Masterchef alumni a visit to Maggie Beer’s Pheasant Farm and wife Jo-Ann, can accommodate up to eightCallum Hann. lunch at Hutton Vale, before a final day in people and offers classes that explore a Coonawarra, where guests can try their hand range of food traditions and cuisines. The The start of the festival is targeted at at winemaking at Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate Food Luddite website, www.foodluddite.wine connoisseurs and the premium and lunch at Mayura Station. The all-inclusive com, has a complete list of classes andend of the market, while the weekend tour price is $4990 per person twin share. For booking availability.itineraries will include relaxed, family- bookings phone1800 033 160 or (03) 5572friendly activities. 1371. www.airadventure.com.au. Above: Kingsford Homestead Panorama. Opposite page “Whether you choose to come to Top: Seppeltsfield' fields.experience the premium black-tieevents, or bike around from wineryto winery taking in the spectacularsurroundings as you go, the BarossaVintage Festival is the perfect timeto visit this much loved destination,”says festival director Andrew Dundon.Activities include a retrospective of30 years of wine making at Rockford,a harvest celebration with SchildEstate and Casa Carboni, a long tablelunch at Tscharke Wines, a tasting ofTorbreck icons Runrig and The Laird,fortified tastings at Seppeltsfield andthe Barossa Grand Cellar Dinnerpresented by the Barons of theBarossa. For more information visitwww.barossavintagefestival.com.au orphone (08) 8232 2526. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 75

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY119 TASTED79 AWARDEDB A R O S S A V A LLEY & EDEN V A LLEYArguably Australia’s most recognised region, not surprisingly Peter Lehmann Chardonnayshiraz excelled again. Whilst the rieslings generally failed to live Wigan Eden Valleyup to expectations what was very exciting was the high results Riesling 2009 HHHH 3 TASTEDfor unusual alternative varieties such as saperavi, zinfandel and A beautiful classic aged 2 AWARDEDmontepulciano among others. riesling showing lovely minerally brown lime One very good exampleOther White Peter Lehmann characters. Has plenty of of a five star chardonnay.Varietals H&V Barossa Valley cellaring potential left inand Blends Verdejo 2014 HHH it yet. $32 Saltram Mamre Very lifted nose with Jacob’s Creek Brook Eden Valley8 TASTED an attractive muskiness Reserve Barossa Chardonnay and zingy freshness on Valley Riesling 2013 2012 HHHHH6 AWARDED the perfumed citrussy HHH1/2 Quite a classy, well- palate. $22 Fresh and subtle aromas made wine showing with a very attractive some nice agedThe judges were Seppeltsfield Orlando St Helga zesty flavour profile characters. Attractiveconcerned about the Barossa Vermentino Eden Valley Riesling on the solid and well touch of funkiness onmaturity of the fruit for 2014 HHH 2014 HHHHH balanced palate. $18.99 the complex citrussythe 2014 vintage. There A simple but lively and A fresh, light, bright Jacob’s Creek nose and a rich,are some nice varietal fresh vibrant green wine and delicate wine with Heritage Steingarten seamlessly balanced,wines that are worth exhibiting clean citrussy an attractive lime-like Eden Valley Riesling palate. A solid drink. $24pursuing however more characters. $22 bouquet and a subtle 2013 HHH1/2work needs to be done. floral/citrus flavour Austere and refined Peter Lehmann“Freshness is best.” Saltram profile on a zingy fresh in the citrus/tropical H&V Eden Valley Winemaker’s palate that shows spectrum. Lovely ChardonnayPeter Lehmann Selection Barossa a very good line of varietal lift to the nose 2013 HHH1/2Margaret Barossa Valley Semillon acidity. $19.99 and a tight citrussy Pleasant melon/Semillon 2009 HHHH 2014 HHH Grant Burge Wines palate. $42.99 grapefruit varietalVery attractive toasty A fresh flavoursome The Vigneron Peter Lehmann characters with a decentaromas with honeyed varietal - all hay and Reserve Eden Valley Portrait Eden amount of creamyhints. Toasty and citrus showing perfect Riesling 2010 HHHH Valley Dry Riesling cashew-like oak. Verybuttery on the palate ripeness and perfect Ageing beautifully with 2014 HHH appealing. $22with grapefruit-like balance. $24 a lovely brown lime Nose is fresh, crisp andfruit flavours. Ageing bouquet and excellent lively with a refreshing Rosébeautifully. $32 Riesling flavour profile. Still bright citrussy palate full of and lively with plenty of delicate flavours. $18 2 TASTEDSaltram Winemaker’s 16 TASTED life left in it yet. $30 Wolf Blass Gold 2 AWARDEDSelection Barossa 7 AWARDED Label Eden ValleyValley Fiano Riesling 2012 HHH A couple of bright lively2014 HHH1/2 Nice aged examples Some buttered toast, examples of a good rosé.Fresh and fruity wine but what’s happened nutty character andwith a pretty mineral line. to 2014? “Very ordinary honey notes on the Bethany WinesAttractive grassy/tropical with poor colours nose with a deep straw Barossa Valleynose and a citrus/pear across the board,” said hue. Drinking well but Cabernet Franc Roséflavour profile. $24 one judge. “It was an showing development. 2014 HHHH acceptable vintage so At its peak now. $20 A good example of aPeter Lehmann H&V these wines shouldn’t be crisp and refreshingEden Valley Pinot like this,” said another. rosé. A pretty pinkGris 2014 HHH The best wines had purity colour with fresh floralAromatic nose with a of fruit. fragrances and lovelyperfumed lift. Bright and light berry flavours. $18juicy in the mouth withgood length of perfumed Kalleske Rosinafruit. $22 Barossa Valley Rosé 2014 HHH An attractive confectionery style with lifted raspberry aromas and long soft fruity palate. $1976 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

regional tastingOther Red Dell’uva Barossa Seppeltsfield Saltram Mamre Saltram Winemaker’sVarietals & Valley Barbera Barossa Grenache Brook Barossa Selection BarossaBlends 2012 HHH 2014 HHH Valley Cabernet Valley Cabernet Licorice-like aromas and A simple wine with Sauvignon Sauvignon11 TASTED well-structured palate pretty fragrant blue and 2012 HHHHH 2012 HHH9 AWARDED with excellent black fruit red fruit characters with A classy wine with An excellent crimson flavour definition. $24 nice floral nuances. $27 beautiful varietal fruit wine that smells ofA great diversity of expression. The nose is fruit pastilles and has awell-made varietals with Dell’uva Barossa Bethany Wines Old dark and brooding, the bright rich and chunkywinemakers showing Valley Merlot Vine Barossa Valley palate is long, rich and palate. $50respect for the fruit. A 2012 HHH Grenache 2012 HHH leafy with tea leaf andgood result with most Very varietal bouquet A big rich wine. Some bay leaf-like characters Exile Barossa Valleywines in this group being and firm fleshy choc/ oak aromatics and a threaded through. $37 Cabernet Sauvignonrecommended. mint palate with grippy lively layered palate with Peter Lehmann VSV 2010 HHH green tannins. $24 lots of flavour. $20 Ruediger Barossa A lovely varietal, stillKalleske Fordson Valley Cabernet quite oaky but evolvingBarossa Valley Dell’uva Barossa Tempranillo Sauvignon 2013 nicely. Has a powerfulZinfandel 2013 Valley Graciano & Blends HHHH1/2 tannic spine. $20HHHH1/2 2012 HHH A lovely bright, fruit-A fine, fragrant and A great drink with lifted 4 TASTED driven, cabernet - very Shirazwell-balanced varietal sweet plum fruit, lots 2 AWARDED well made with some Blendsshowing very attractive of oak and mouthfilling lovely deep purple hues,aromas of cherries, tannins. $35 Tempranillo is a good fresh cassis aromas and 3 TASTEDherbs and licorice which flexible varietal, like a beautiful palate with 2 AWARDEDfollow through on to the Grant Burge shiraz, that works well in long grainy tannins. $60 The judges agreed thatexotic and flavoursome Wines The Vigneron all areas. Grant Burge Wines the shiraz cabernet blendpalate. $24 Barossa Valley Cameron Vale was a standout wine. Mourvedre Seppeltsfield Barossa Valley Pepperjack BarossaKalleske Buckboard 2012 HHH Barossa Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz CabernetBarossa Valley Durif A very well-made wine 2013 HHHH 2012 HHHH 2013 HHHHH2013 HHHH - typical rustic style A stylish example of the Great varietal lift to the A wonderfully youthful,Dark, vibrant and inky showing nice earthiness variety - intense, earthy lovely nose and a dense vibrant, deep crimsonwine with dense licorice and leathery touches. $50 and fruity with hints chunky palate with a wine; good exampleand blackberry fruit of licorice. Has a firm generously flavoured of this classic Aussiecharacters. Good use of Grenache & chalky tannin structure. sweet oak/ripe fruit mid- blend. Loaded withoak and plenty of grippy Blends Needs more time. $30 palate. $24 fragrant blue fruittannins. Just needs Peter Lehmann characters and showingtime. $24 8 TASTED Peter Lehmann Mentor Barossa hints of licorice. Needs 4 AWARDED H&V Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon time to settle. $29Dell’uva Barossa Valley Tempranillo 2012 HHHHValley Montepulciano The judges were 2013 HHH A solid and seamlessly2012 HHHH disappointed with this Attractive blue fruit balanced varietal. DarkA full flavoured wine mixed bag expecting aromas with licorice notes fruits and subtle oakthat’s somewhat driven better from the region. and firm tannic palate with on the nose with a richby the oak but has Lots of advanced fruit lots of fruit. $22 dense palate layeredplenty of sweet licoricey characters evident. with chalky tannins. $42fruit and some fine well- “Report card would say Cabernet Grant Burge Winesbalanced tannins. $35 room for improvement,” Sauvignon & Corryton Park suggested one judge. Blends Barossa ValleyDell’uva Barossa Cabernet SauvignonValley Saperavi Kalleske Clarry’s 11 TASTED 2010 HHH1/22012 HHHH Barossa Valley 8 AWARDED A full-bodied cabernetAn enormous wine with G.S.M. 2014 HHHH showing a meaty nosean incredible inky purple Very youthful wine; A strong class of and a long, lingering andcolour and ‘smacked’ lovely purple hues. Some balanced wine showing nicely textured varietalwith oak but has dense meatiness on the nose well managed varietal fruit palate. $37rich chocolaty fruit and an attractive palate characters that are not Grant Burgeflavours to carry it. $55 layered with mouthfilling overdone. Wines Corryton flavours. $20 Park Eden ValleyDell’uva Barossa Cabernet SauvignonValley Dolcetto Dell’uva Barossa 2008 HHH1/22012 HHH1/2 Valley Grenache Beautifully maturedDark tarry fruit nose 2012 HHH1/2 wine - still holding upand a very flavoursome A very oaky nose but well. Attractive darksavoury palate with fine has a nice lift of dark fruits and sweet fragranttannin structure and fruit aromas. The oak on a slightly syrupywarming alcohol. $24 palate is long, rich and palate. $37 flavoursome with lots going on. $35 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 77

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYSaltram Winemaker’s Peter Lehmann Atze’s Corner Wolf Blass Gold Parous BarossaSelection Barossa VSV 1885 Barossa The Bachelor Label Barossa Valley Valley ShirazValley Shiraz Valley Shiraz 2013 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHHH 2012 HHHHTempranillo HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 A solid deep crimson A complexity of2012 HHH1/2 A lovely young, chunky, A classy fruit-driven shiraz that’s tight, blackberries and licoriceComplex wine evolving bright purple wine style with the oak kept complex and layered. on the nose and layersnicely. Very oaky/meaty loaded with excellent nicely in check and the Excellent dark brooding of flavour on the rich,nose and medium dark varietal fruit soft and smooth tannins varietal fruit expression creamy and silky smoothweight palate that’s characters. Has licorice well integrated. $28 with very attractive palate. $40big on flavour. Good notes on the nose and oak adding just the Grant Burge Winestannins. $50 a beautifully focused, Kalleske Greenock right amount of The Vigneron 1887 tight, vibrant palate. $60 Barossa Valley complexity. $28 Barossa ValleyShiraz 2013 Jacob’s Creek Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 Seppeltsfield Shiraz 2012 HHHH Reserve Barossa A rich well-made wine Barossa Shiraz A big Barossa shiraz12 TASTED Valley Shiraz that’s dense, layered 2012 HHHH1/2 with lovely purple hues12 AWARDED 2013 HHHH and creamy with a solid A lovely wine with a and brimming over with A spicier style of shiraz. core of oak matched by dark cherry/licorice powerful dark fruitsA solid class with all Deep crimson in colour the varietal fruit. $40 profile and warm spicy layered with classy oakwines submitted in this and all dark fruits, licorice nuances. The nose is and chalky tannins. $75category recommended. and some meatiness Peter Lehmann bright and aromatic. Blackstone Paddock“That’s a statement on with subtle oak and fine H&V Barossa Valley The palate is tight and Barossa Valleyits own!” agreed the tannins. $18.99 Shiraz 2013 HHH elegant and fills the Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2judges. Lovely Barossa Grant Burge Wines Quite a closed nose mouth with flavour. $30 Very appealing stylevarietals without being Miamba Barossa with a relatively Dell’uva Barossa with lovely sweetover the top and the oak Valley Shiraz straightforward palate Valley Syrah aromatic fruit and plentykept nicely in check. 2013 HHHH of dark fruits, oak and 2012 HHHH of toasty oak. Has a A typical Barossa shiraz tannins. $22 Dense, dark, chunky lifted nose and juicy softKalleske Moppa - vibrant and young and and oaky but has some palate. $19.99Barossa Valley filling the mouth with Pirathon Barossa powerful and vibrantShiraz 2013 HHHHH lovely purple/black fruits Valley Shiraz shiraz fruit pushing itsVery attractive lifted balanced by classy 2013 HHH way through. Excellentsweet ripe fruit bouquet sweet oak. $24 A nose lifted with oak length. Needs time. $30and a beautifully stylish Peter Lehmann and red fruits and a Wolf Blass Mocultapalate showing an Portrait Barossa pleasant full-bodied Sapphire Labelexcellent core of varietal Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 creamy chocolaty Barossa Valleyfruit layered with some Inviting dark fruit palate. $23 Shiraz 2012 HHHHgreat oak and grippy fragrances and very A rich and generoustannins. Needs more big rich ripe palate with Peter Lehmann VSV shiraz with lifted darktime to settle. $28 chewy tannins. “Lots Hearnden Eden Valley fruit balanced by going on here,” said one Shiraz 2013 HHH subtle sweet oak andPepperjack Barossa judge. $18 Big tannic style supported by a tightShiraz 2013 HHHHH Saltram 1859 seamlessly layered with tannic backbone. $70Very lifted bright primary Barossa Valley fragrant licoricey dark Wolf Blass Dorrienfruit aromas of dark Shiraz 2013 HHH1/2 fruits and lovely oak. $60 Sapphire Labelfruits, licorice and warm Very lifted nose - Barossa Valleyspices. The palate is masses of black fruit Shiraz 2012 Shiraz 2012 HHHHboth restrained and and subtle oak use. “Very Barossan,” saidgenerous and offers Dense palate with plush 24 TASTED one judge. Rich, ripe andlots of oak but nicely shiraz fruit and oak 15 AWARDED very flavoursome withintegrated with dense complexity. $20 mouthfilling classy oakblue fruits. $29 “Not as strong a group and perfectly ripened as the 2013s,” thought varietal fruit. $70 one judge. The judges concurred that they were good wines but overall too oaky. “Watch the oak regime,” they advised.judges Marie Clay Troy Kalleske Ian McKenzie Winemaker, Wolf Blass Winemaker and co-owner National wine show Wines. Judge at regional of Kalleske Wines. judge and former co- shows over past ten years Previously with Southcorp chief winemaker for including Cairns, Small Group, including Penfolds, Southcorp, Seppelt and Winemakers (Stanthorpe), Seppelt and Lindemans. Berri Estates. Over 40 Riverland, and many others. Also vintaged with Kendall years’ experience in Previously at Lindemans Jackson in California. the wine industry with Karadoc. Has vintaged in Associate judge at the more than 30 years Tuscany & Burgundy. Barossa Wine Show. participation in the wine show judging circuit.78 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

regional tastingGrant Burge Wines Shiraz 2011 & Grant Burge WinesFilsell Old Vine Older Meshach BarossaBarossa Valley Valley ShirazShiraz 2012 HHH1/2 14 TASTED 2003 HHH1/2Some beautiful varietal 8 AWARDED A classic perfectly agedfruit here but the vanillin Barossa shiraz showingoak tends to dominate The 2010 was a classic dense olive and tar-likeit at the moment. Good vintage for the Barossa. characters. Ready forcellaring potential. $37 The wines are maturing drinking now. $180St Hugo Barossa nicely. “Too much oak,”Valley Shiraz 2012 thought one judge. Seabrook WinesHHH1/2 “Not enough to be The MerchantAn attractive and penalized but needs to Barossa Valleyeasy drinking style be watched.” Shiraz 2010 HHHwith excellent length Inviting, ageing, red fruitof mouthfilling dark Saltram Moculta aromas and developingfruits and creamy oak Road Vineyard palate layered with oakflavours. $51.99 Barossa Valley and sweet fruits. $28Wolf Blass Lyndoch Shiraz 2010 HHHHHSapphire Label Excellent fruity nose Peter LehmannBarossa Valley with subtle oak nuances. Stonewell BarossaShiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Thick and bright in the Shiraz 2010 HHHMasses of oak here mouth with a fabulous Quite mature for a- but it is very classy fine fragrant line of 4-year-old. Good balanceand there is some good primary fruit characters of dark fruits, subtlefruit power behind it. showing licorice cedary oak and dryingSolid tannins. Needs touches. Has many tannins. $100time. $70 years left in it yet. $90Schulz The Sweet WhiteBoulevard Barossa Saltram No. 1 & FortifiedValley Shiraz Barossa Valley2012 HHH Shiraz 2010 3 TASTEDSoft and stylish deep HHHH1/2 2 AWARDEDcrimson wine with nice Archetypical Barossa -confectionery fruit and has loads of chocolaty A classic tawny that issweet vanillin oak. $25.99 oak, an excellent varietal as fresh as a daisy!Peter Lehmann fruit presence and allEight Songs Barossa wrapped in ripe tannins. Saltram Mr.Shiraz 2012 HHH The palate is beautifully Pickwick’s TawnySoft and inviting with textured and dense. $90 NV HHHHHthe sweet oak coming A lovely example of anfirst and the inviting red Wolf Blass Medlands aged tawny - gorgeousfruit second. $42 Vineyard Platinum golden/amber colourGrant Burge Label Barossa Valley with the rancio, oakWines The Vigneron Shiraz 2010 HHHH and fruit all in seamlessThe Natural Barossa A big tannic number harmony. InvitingValley Shiraz with lovely cedary oak aromas and silky smooth2012 HHH and dark fruit complexity palate with some alcoholAn attractive wine with on both the nose and on warmth. $74.99solid syrupy jube-like the dense, full-bodied,fruit but has the oak to palate. $90 Kalleske J.M.Kbalance it. $50 Barossa ValleyWolf Blass St John’s Saltram No. 1 Shiraz VP 2014Ebenezer Road Barossa Valley (375ml) HHHH1/2Sapphire Label Shiraz 2009 HHHH Alluring, intense andBarossa Valley A solid, layered and fruity - a classic AussieShiraz 2012 HHH complex wine with big style. It’s tight, preciseBrooding meaty aromas brooding varietal fruit and well-matured withand a big dense black sitting underneath some dark dense broodingfruit palate with lots of very classy oak. “Plenty fruit, some very classychunky tannins. $70 happening here.” $90 spirit and good rancio nuttiness. $23 Casella 1919 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 HHHH A lovely mature wine yet it’s still quite fresh with inviting molasses-like aromas and a beautifully chocolaty palate with a drying finish. $100 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 79 BRA034_POC_AgedRiesling2010_WineState_59x270_Ad_8F/A0.1in/1d4d 21:06 PM

142 TASTED73 AWARDEDC H A R D O NN AY & B LEND SChardonnay is like clay in the hands of a master potter. By Wise Guyitself it can be quite pedestrian but with appropriate oak and Western Australialees handling can rise into an art form. Across all classes there Chardonnaywere some “Master Potters” whilst others did not quite hit the 2014 HHHhighlights. The sweet spot was in the $25-$35 region where Nose and palate awinemakers seemed to get the balance of fruit and oak right. pleasant combination of melons, citrus and tropical fruits with good acidity. $17.99Chardonnay A.C. Byrne & Co Claire Creek South Mt Monster Mills Reef WineryUnder $15 Margaret River Eastern Australia Limestone Coast Estate New Zealand Chardonnay Chardonnay 2013 HHH Chardonnay Chardonnay10 TASTED 2014 HHH Fresh lemon/lime 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH5 AWARDED Tropical nose has a bouquet. Creamy A pretty delicate A nose of brown lime nice citrus lift to it. Very stonefruit palate nectarine bouquet with and toasty oak with aMixed group of both tropical palate, creamy with good oak/acid good citrus intensity. solid and flavoursomesweet and acid sour in the mouth, with integration. $4.99 All lemons and oranges fruit palate. $18wines with pressings plenty of length. $9.99 on the well-integratedcharacters at this low Brygon Estate Chardonnay palate with nice light Jip Jip Rocksprice level. Some good Meadowbrook 2014 $15 - $20 oak. $15.95 Unoaked Padthawayvalue lunch wines came Chardonnay Rosemount Chardonnaythrough, however. 2014 HHH 15 TASTED Estate Diamond 2014 HHH Developing some 6 AWARDED Label Australia Full-bodied, palePeter Lehmann Art toastiness on the nose. Chardonnay gold style, well-‘n’ Soul Barossa Crisp and clean in the Another mixed group. 2014 HHH1/2 integrated with hintsChardonnay 2012 mouth with pleasant The good wines showed Delicate minerally nose; of sweetness and highHHH1/2 oak. $14.99 some fruit and good hints of lemons and acidity. $19.95A peach-like nose with balance which is what stonefruits and a touchsome buttery maturity. is expected at this of smokiness. Palate ChardonnayNice palate of spicy oak price, but there were still tightly wound for 2013 & Olderand ripe peaches with a number showing now. $15.99 $15 - $20good acid balance. $14 oxidative characters. Peter Yealands Hawke’s Bay 17 TASTEDBridgewater Mill Chardonnay 9 AWARDEDAdelaide Hills 2014 HHHChardonnay Very fresh tropical The judges found these2013 HHH aromas and an oak to be much betterInteresting nose dominated palate but balanced wines with- smells of lemon has some fruit and good use of oak. “Moresherbet. Quite a linear buttery malo. $15.99 NZ wines true to the varietalpalate but with lots style here with not manygoing on. $14.99 tropical styles,” noted one judge. Jacob’s Creek Reserve Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2013 HHHH An old school style with a big oak profile, sweet peach/nectarine fruit and crisp acidity. The creamy barrel ferment adds complexity. $18.9980 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

varietal tastingRosemount Estate Blackbilly Currency The Niche South Brygon Reserve Third WheelDistrict Release Creek Chardonnay Australia Chardonnay Wines Bin 868 Reserve MargaretRobe Limestone 2013 HHH 2013 HHH Margaret River River ChardonnayCoast Chardonnay More restrained “Smells like tinned Chardonnay 2013 HHHH1/22013 HHHH perfumed nose and pineapple,” thought 2013 HHH Flinty minty aromasA complexity of smoky well-integrated palate one judge. Lovely A citrussy style with and a very restrainedoak, peaches and with good fruit/oak flavoursome palate. some complexity and linear palate withasparagus on the nose. balance. $18 Good acid spine. $19.95 developing. Creamy lots of oak but niceVibrant palate - excellent DiGiorgio Lucindale palate texture and nice fruit expression andfruit intensity and great Limestone Coast acidity. $19.99 zippy acidity that leavesuse of oak. $19.99 Chardonnay the mouth feelingBrygon Reserve 2013 HHH Chardonnay refreshed. $24.99The Bruce Margaret Smoky oak dominates $20 - $25 Wolf Blass GoldRiver Chardonnay the nose and follows Label Adelaide Hills2013 HHH1/2 on to the palate 27 TASTED Chardonnay 2013Lots of oak here mingling with nice floral 11 AWARDED HHHH1/2but has the fruit to notes. $18 Vibrant golden wine;match. Herbal aromas Clarence Hill Although quite a few great blend of stonefruitand herbal/citrussy Adelaide Chardonnay wines here failed to live and herbal-likeflavours with a lean 2012 HHH up to expectations there characters underscoredacid finish. $19.99 Very lifted aromas was a greater strike rate by spicy oak with a longBarwick Estates of citrus/lemonade. in the top wines showing lingering finish. “GreatWhite Label Margaret Interesting palate - a what can be done. value for money at thisRiver Chardonnay touch funky with a price point.” $24.992013 HHH warming finish. $18Very buttery nose andfloral fragrances and agenerous fruit palatewell supported by theoak. $18 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 81

CHARDONNAY & BL E N D SSaltram 1859 Eden Saint Clair Family Chardonnay First Foot Forward Nocton VineyardValley Chardonnay Estate Premium $25 - $30 The Patch Vineyard Estate Coal River2013 HHHH Marlborough Yarra Valley Valley ChardonnayLeaner aromas Chardonnay 15 TASTED Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2with cucumber-like 2013 HHH1/2 13 AWARDED 2013 HHHH Cheesy minerallyfreshness. Citrus Flinty citrus aromas “Finally a consistent Nicely made wine complexity to thecharacters carrying all on the buttery malo class with excellent with some very good melon/pineapple nose.the way through the dominant nose. Well- varietal characters,” citrussy varietal fruit Excellent fruit intensitypalate with a good line rounded and buttery agreed the judges. seamlessly integrated on the palate withof crisp acidity. $20.99 in the mouth; lots of Good fruit, good oak with toasty oak and supporting oak. $26Pask Gimblett interest here. $21.50 NZ (sometimes too good) some really creamy MermerusRoad Hawke’s Bay After Hours and good balance. ‘butteryness’. $28 Bellarine PeninsulaChardonnay Margaret River Howard Park Chardonnay2013 HHHH Chardonnay Anvers Adelaide Flint Rock 2013 HHHExcellent perfumed 2013 HHH Hills Chardonnay Great Southern Flinty lemon barley-nose with a lovely Almost Tamarillo-like 2012 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay like aromas. Excellentginger-like lift. Palate aromas and well- “A loud style,” said 2013 HHHH length of complex,showing good level structured fruit/oak/ one judge. Has a very Simple, clean and vibrant slightly sweet,of primary fruit with malo palate. Punches serious oak nose with on the nose. Palate flavours. $25good yeast adding above its weight. $22 a fresh zinginess to showing nice clean lines Pask Gimblettcomplexity. $22 NZ Ninth Island it. Lovely full creamy with some nuttiness Road Small BatchGrant Burge Tasmania palate with good oak and great citrussy acid Hawke’s BaySummers Eden Chardonnay selection and handling backbone. $28 ChardonnayValley Alpine 2013 HHH and excellent fruit to 2013 HHHValley Adelaide Good varietal fruit back it. $28 Hand Crafted Pleasant sherbetyHills Tasmania nose with tropical by Geoff Hardy characters to the nose.Chardonnay touches that carry Limestone Coast Clean and crisp in2013 HHHH through onto the clean Chardonnay the mouth with zingyAn oak-driven style crisp palate. $22.50 2012 HHH1/2 citrus-like acid. $25 NZwith a good line and Rosemount Estate A leaner, tighter Tatler Dimitri’splenty of length of MV Collection chardonnay with Paddock Hunterfresh varietal fruit McLaren Vale good fruit expression Valley Chardonnayexpression with an Chardonnay showing ginger-like 2013 HHHexcellent creamy 2013 HHH notes. Firm acid and A lovely creamy winetexture. $24 Funky and interesting. warming alcohol. $28 just starting to showSaltram Mamre Peaches and flowers bottle age complexityBrook Eden Valley on the nose. Pungent and quite sweet oak. $27Chardonnay and tropical on the Crossroads2012 HHHH palate. $24.99 Milestone SeriesA well thought out La Curio The Hawke’s Bayand well put together Suffragette McLaren Chardonnaychardonnay with spicy Vale Chardonnay 2013 HHHsweet oak fragrances and 2012 HHH A warm, full-bodied,complexity of citrussy/oak Huge oaky style buttery style showingflavours. $22.99 developing toasty good intensity of bottle age but some peachy fruit and spicyjudges fruit pushing through. oak. $27.99 Warm finish. $21Richard Gawel Tim Pelquest Hunt Shane HarrisResearch Scientist at Current white winemaker for Winemaker for Wines by GeoffAWRI and inaugural Pernod Ricard Winemakers Hardy including, PertaringaSensory Wine in the Barossa. Winemaking Wines, K1 and HandcraftedScientist at the experience in New Zealand, by Geoff Hardy Wines. HasUniversity of Adelaide. Hunter Valley, Tasmania, also completed vintages inLecturer for more than Rheinhessen (Germany), Queensland and Victoria.twelve years. He is and made sparkling wine Completed the AWRI advancedalso a wine show in Napa Valley (US) & West sensory course and hasand olive oil judge. Sussex (UK). associate judged at McLaren Vale wine show.82 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

varietal tastingAbel’s Tempest Saint Clair Family Saint Clair Family Babich Family Paringa EstateTasmania Estate Pioneer Estate Pioneer Wines Irongate MorningtonChardonnay Block 11 Cell Block 4 Sawcut Hawke’s Bay Peninsula Estate2013 HHH Block Marlborough Marlborough Chardonnay ChardonnayVery complex and quite Chardonnay Chardonnay 2013 HHHH 2012 HHHH1/2funky and loaded with 2013 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH An upfront sweet A lighter bodiedcreamy custard and A full-bodied “A buttery bomb,” said stonefruit and citrus peaches and cream stylesweet apple-like fruit chardonnay brimming one judge. Fragrances style just starting to with fresh flintiness tocharacters. $28 over with opulent of sweet vanilla show some nice yeasty the nose and intense varietal fruit and and peaches. Nice complexity and has a ripe fruit flavoursTokar Estate Yarra has nice spicy wood integration between the pleasant creamy texture. that shine through.Valley Chardonnay to back it up. Well- fruit and the oak with $34.99 NZ Has texture, weight2013 HHH weighted palate with firm acidity. $32.90 NZ and good mouthfeel.Fragrant oak aromas excellent flavour Morambro Creek Pipers Brook Faultless! $35and a palate that persistence. $32.90 NZ Padthaway Estate Tasmania Saddlers Creekshows funk and flare Wolf Blass White Chardonnay Chardonnay Wines Reservewith some interesting Label Piccadilly 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 Hunter Valleyelements. $28 Valley Chardonnay Lovely purity of herbal/ An elegant wine with Chardonnay 2013 HHHH1/2 nettle aromas with a hint a lot of complexity 2013 HHHHWhistling Kite Citrus and stonefruit of honey. Tightly wound on the nose and a lift Inviting creamy butteryBiodynamic on the nose with palate has a good core of wild flowers. The aromas and a complexRiverland attractive complexity of fruit and a fresh palate is very linear palate layered withChardonnay coming from the citrussy finish. $31.95 and citrussy. $34 flavours of pears2012 HHH yeast. Youthful palate. and apples and oakSmells of apples and “Yummy and creamy,” Jacob’s Creek all wrapped in crisphazelnuts. Palate is with tight acid Reeves Point acidity. $36a complexity of oak, backbone wound up for Barossa Kangaroo Forester Estatestonefruit and buttery cellaring. $34.99 Island Chardonnay Margaret Rivermalo. $25 2013 HHH Chardonnay Fragrant oak is the 2013 HHHHBream Creek dominant character on Very ripe peach/toastyTasmania the nose with good oak/ oak characters onChardonnay peach flavours. $31.99 the nose. Palate is2011 HHH elegant and fragrantToasty spicy oak nose. Chardonnay with delicate floralSoft, round and creamy $35 - $40 characters comingin the mouth and through. $37.99showing some ‘real’ 17 TASTEDage. $28 8 AWARDEDChardonnay A mixed bag for this$30 - $35 price point. “Lots of oaky wines here15 TASTED that were lacking in7 AWARDED creaminess,” noted one judge. “TheThe results may have expectation gets highervaried somewhat here, with the price and somebut the top wines winemakers tend to doscored highly. “These more than they should.wines showed a core Sometimes lessof complexity offering is more.”texture rather thansugar sweetness.” March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 83

CHARDONNAY & BL E N D SChain of Ponds Grant Burge The Chardonnay Foxeys HangoutCorkscrew Road Vigneron Nonpariel $40 - $50 White GatesAdelaide Hills Eden Valley Alpine MorningtonChardonnay Valley Chardonnay 9 TASTED Peninsula2013 HHHH 2012 HHH1/2 5 AWARDED ChardonnaySome chocolaty barrel Fragrant oak aromas 2013 HHHH1/2ferment characters on on the nose with a “A bit early for the 2013s A lot of funky charactersthe nose. Good layering light lemon lift. Palate at this price - with some obvious on theof flavours on the nicely is soft and round and exceptions,” said one interesting nose andtextured palate that has just “glides across the judge. “Some of these a well-rounded, silkya persistent finish. $38 mouth”. $35 wines were going into smooth palate withSandalford Estate Basils Farm Swan the bottle too early - good quality oak/fruitReserve Margaret Bay Bellarine some too late.” “Good flavour combo with veryRiver Chardonnay Peninsula to see some flintiness pleasant mouthfeel. $452013 HHH1/2 Chardonnay coming into the picture,” CrossroadsFlinty nose with a lift 2014 HHH observed another. Winemakers Seriesof varietal fruit. Palate A wine with plenty of Hawke’s Bayshows a good core of stonefruit and melons; Chardonnaystonefruit flavours with oak and malo and a 2012 HHHH1/2delicate use of oak. $35 lemon sorbet-like lift. $35 Remarkably fresh Mills Reef Winery aromas showing Elspeth Hawke’s nice flintiness. Well- Thompson Estate Bay Chardonnay structured palate, Margaret River 2013 HHH excellent complexity Chardonnay Savoury bacon-like lift and nicely focused 2012 HHHH to the nose and a big fruit with perfect oak A delightfully custardy palate with handling. One succinct developing toasty some very nice oak. $39 comment - “Yum”. $40 bouquet and a crème brulee of a palate that shows an excellent depth of fruit/oak flavours. $45 DaDre tiofbfeerent MAKERAUSTRALIAN WINE O 2013 Quality Mediterranean Varieties & Fortified Wines www.919wines.com.au F THE YEAR84 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015 21/01/2015 9:52:46 AM AS_919 Wines HPH_MA15.indd 1

varietal tastingMartinborough Chardonnay Sacred Hill Seville EstateVineyard $50+ Riflemans Hawke’s Reserve YarraMartinborough Bay Chardonnay Valley ChardonnayChardonnay 11 TASTED 2013 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH2012 HHH1/2 7 AWARDED A lot going on with this Rich oaky nose withA broader style sitting wine with its rich and hints of apples. A veryin the ripe citrussy As to be expected - an creamy texture, loads of lean palate exhibitingfruit spectrum with a excellent line-up of top powerful fruit, excellent some fragrant fruit withclean crisp acid spine quality chardonnays that level of complexity, nice good oak to match andand showing nice varied from the linear mineral edge and a crisp a big acid finish. $70creaminess. $40 example focused on acid backbone. $74.99 Grosset PiccadillyPask Declaration pure fruit to the creamy Prancing Horse Adelaide HillsHawke’s Bay and complex styles. Estate Mornington ChardonnayChardonnay Peninsula 2010 HHHH2013 HHH Heemskerk Coal Chardonnay Big, ripe aromas;A simple but pleasant River Valley 2009 HHHH1/2 lots of oak. Nicestyle with apricot and Chardonnay A nicely maturing linear structure to thenectarine characters 2013 HHHH1/2 chardonnay, nose palate showing greaton both the nose and A wine of real beginning to maderise texture and developingpalate. $40 NZ distinction - austere and - nice fig, citrus and some attractive tightly wound for the honey characters. maturity. $54.99 moment with melon- Redgate Wines Beautifully structured Paringa Estate The like aromas showing a Margaret River palate full of varietal Paringa Mornington meaty edge and some Chardonnay expression. Good oak Peninsula flintiness. Racy citrussy 2013 HHHH1/2 profile. $65 Chardonnay palate has great quality The nose is fragrant and 2011 HHH1/2 oak to balance. $50 inviting and smelling of Green nettles and spicy lemon sherbet with a hint oak on the nose and of quince. Palate is full of firm creamy palate complex flavours with an with lots of flavour excellent acid profile and persistence and good a warming finish. $60 use of oak. $50 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 85

Registrations open for MARCH 22-25 This professional wine buyers event will be held in the northern Italian city of Verona in March 2015 and attracts major buyers from all the world's largest customer bases including India, Brazil, Russia, Europe and North America. Vinitaly hosts displays from every major wine producing country in the world. The \"romance of Italy\" attracts buyers - they come to buy wines from around the world, including Australia. Winestate has attended every year since 2008 – it IS the world’s number one wine expo. In a rapidly changing world marketplace wineries need to remember not to focus all effort into one market e.g. China. It should be remembered the UK and Europe (particularly Scandinavia and Eastern EU) is a huge wine marketplace. The situation with wines in the China market could change in an instant! Remember what happened in the US market in 2008-09? Winestate is attending Vinitaly and will represent 10 South Australian wine companies. These companies are not required to provide sales staff but are welcome and encouraged to do so. Winestate will represent your wines to an international buying group at a lower cost than establishing and running your own site. Your wines will be professionally presented in a South Australian Wine Master class and on show for the entire week at a fully equipped South Australian display

POINTS OF DIFFERENCE CONTACT Peter JacksonWhy should my wine be on show at Vinitaly and International Wine Marketingnot other large EU wine events? & Promotions Director www.vinitaly.comThe South Australian display is the ONLY Australian 2015 - Official Australian Exhibitiondisplay out of 4500 sites – this means EVERY buyer and Masterclass Programwho attends and is interested in Australian wines Phone 08 8357 9277will see your wine. Fax 08 8357 9212 Email [email protected] are limited to 10 SOUTH AUSTRALIANproducers – to secure one of the spots pleasecomplete the application and return.Winestate can represent your brand if you can’tattend.Every producer who participates will have aFREE Half page display advertisement valued at$4900 in all issues of Winestate (AU, Airlines andInternational) in March/April 2015. SAWIA memberswill have their free advertisement upgraded to aFULL PAGE valued at $8900. And all participantswill be referred to Monopoly buyers from Europeprior to the event.

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINmarlboroughPURE LUXURY with a full gymnasium. Continental FACING A NEW FUTURE and full breakfasts are included everyTHE award-winning Sounds Retreat day, as are dinner and cocktails each IT IS all change at Lawsons’s Dry Hills, oneAnakiwa is one of the most luxurious evening. Breakfast options include of the pioneering wine producers in theretreats in the Marlborough region, offering freshly squeezed juices, Bircher muesli, Marlborough region. Lawson’s Dry Hills wasexquisite accommodation and gourmet omelettes, French toast, croissants, established in 1991 by Ross and Barbarafood and wine for a maximum of two bacon and eggs and Danish pastries. The Lawson, who were told they were “mad” toguests at any time. The mini lodge has dinner menu includes dishes like smoked plant grapes on a small block of low-lying,superb views of the Marlborough Sounds freshwater salmon, venison and pancetta flood prone land in 1981. That first vintageand is just a short drive from Picton and ravioli, and veal tenderloin matched to brought about a harvest of 15 tonnes ofBlenheim in the complimentary Mini a list that highlights Lindauer and St gewurztraminer which was managed in anCooper convertible that is provided to Clair wines. Tariffs vary seasonally but old tin shed. The business has flourished,guests. Located just five minutes from include dinner and all drinks, including with wines now exported to over 20 countries,the famous Queen Charlotte Track in wines and spirits, snacks and hand-made but there was a change of ownership lastperfect terrain for hiking, mountain biking chocolates and complimentary transfers December when two of the company’sor kayaking on the water, Sounds Retreat from/to Blenheim or Picton. Staff are on long-term partners, Tim and Pauline Evill,is so picturesque it is highlighted in the site 24 hours a day. The Sounds Retreat, purchased additional shares previouslylatest Pure New Zealand TV commercial. 215 Anakiwa Rd, Picton, Marlborough. owned by the Lawson family to take a majorityThe hot tub on the private terrace offers interest. Key members of the managementsweeping views of the Sounds and with www.thesoundsretreat.co.nz. team have also shown their backing for thejust one single suite, privacy is ensured. company with Sion Barnsley, general managerThe open-plan suite has picture windows for five years, and chief winemaker of 11 yearsand glass doors leading to spacious Marcus Wright also investing to become newdecks. There is a turn-down service, shareholders. “Now we are back in Newheated bathroom flooring, heated cabana Zealand we wish to be much more involved,with stocked bar fridge, espresso maker, so the opportunity to take over and build onplasma television, iPod dock with iPod, Ross and Barbara’s great work, alongside Sionand complimentary wireless internet and the excellent team we have in place, wasaccess. While the Mini Cooper is the too good to pass up,” says Tim Evill.best option for vineyard exploration,there are also mountain bikes on site Located on Alabama Rd, just on the eastand the Sounds Retreat is also equipped side of Blenheim, the Lawson’s Dry Hills cellar door offers the chance to sample sauvignon blanc, gewurztraminer, riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris and pinot noir. The cellar door is open 10am-5pm, 362 days of the year (closed on Christmas Day, Good Friday and Anzac Day); phone +64 3 578 7674. www. lawsonsdryhills.co.nz.88 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

travelbriefsWINGED WONDERS DINNER MENU NOW AVAILABLE TOURING ON TWO WHEELSVISITORS can combine wine tasting A MARLBOROUGH winery has made the VISITORS to Marlborough can now take a spinwith the chance to get up close and rare move of opening its restaurant for on a motor scooter this summer with a nationalpersonal with majestic New Zealand dinner - a time when tourists have often rental car company hiring out scooters for thefalcons at the Brancott Estate cellar struggled to find a vineyard meal. Twelve first time. Thrifty Car Rental has launched itsdoor. A partnership between Brancott Trees at Allan Scott Family Winemakers new fleet of scooters that full-licence holdersEstate and Marlborough Falcon Trust was open Friday, Saturday and Sunday can hire for $52 a day. Project manager Levioffers the chance to witness first- nights during January and February as Macpherson said Picton had been chosenhand the incredible aerobatics of New a trial, with more dinner openings under as the first place in New Zealand for theZealand’s only indigenous bird of consideration. Normally the restaurant - company to trial the scooter hire. The highprey. A five-year relationship between like many other winery restaurants in the number of tourists who visited or passedthe Marlborough Falcon Trust and region - opens only for lunch. Allan Scott through Picton in summer made it the perfectBrancott Estate recently resulted in Family Winemakers hospitality marketing trial spot, Macpherson said. “We’re targetingthe opening of the Falcon Valley at manager Kylie Cornelius said they made the tourist market in town over the holidayBrancott Estate Heritage Centre. For a the decision to open the restaurant, period, as well as locals who want to cruisedonation, visitors have a chance to view which is celebrating its 25th anniversary around town. Picton can be a tough place totwo of the Marlborough Falcon Trust’s this year, in the evenings after calls and hire cars without bookings in the holidays.”advocacy birds, with all donations comments from customers. She said the Thrifty general manager Emma Gardiner saidcontributing to ongoing awareness and new opening times were not set in stone. the scooters were an economical way forrehabilitation of falcons. “Ensuring the “For us, it’s a little bit of a trial,” she said. visitors to explore Marlborough. The companyfuture survival of the New Zealand falcon “Our customers keep asking and calling will review the success of the project andthrough awareness and education is us to see if we are open for dinner so we consider hiring scooters at other towns in Newa key aim of the Marlborough Falcon figured now was the time to give it a go.” Zealand. The 49cc scooters are available toTrust,” says Amanda Simcic, trustee Named after the original walnut trees that hire until April from Thrifty on High St and at theof the Marlborough Falcon Trust. “Our lined the entrance to the winery, Twelve Interislander ferry terminal. They come with aadvocacy falcons give people the Trees features “fresh and local” cuisine helmet and a hi-vis vest.chance to see for themselves how from head chef Matt Gibson, includingmajestic and intelligent these birds are.” the ever-popular seafood chowder. Above: Allan Scott Cellar Door and Restaurant.In addition to the Falcon Walk, visitors Twelve Trees restaurant, Jacksons Rd, Opposite pageto the Brancott Estate Heritage Centre RD3, Blenheim; phone +64 3 572 9054. Above: The Sounds Retreat view.will also be able to see the falcons www.allanscott.com. Below: Lawson's Dry Hills Vineyards.in full-flight as part of the BrancottEstate Falcon Encounter. “New Zealandfalcons are incredibly acrobatic flyers,able to reach speeds of up to 200kphwhen hunting,” says Simcic. “The NewZealand falcons are an important partof our vineyard ecosystem, helpingto keep grape-eating birds away fromthe vineyard,” says Patrick Materman,chief winemaker for Brancott Estate.“Brancott Estate Heritage Centre isone of the leading tourist destinationsin Marlborough and we are very proudto be able to use our location to helpraise awareness of falcons.” BrancottEstate Heritage Centre, 2 Vineyard Rd,Blenheim; phone +64 3 520 6975. www.brancottestate.com. March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 89

MARLBOROUGH262 TASTED182 AWARDEDM A R L B O R O UG HThe crucial sauvignon blanc class proved to be a mixed bag, Brancott Estatereflecting the bumper size of the 2014 - especially - and 2013 Sparkling Roséharvests. The new wave of low alcohol wines (below 10 per cent NV HHHby volume), based mostly but not entirely on sauvignon blanc, did Pink/pale orange. Lively,not perform well. However, the panellists found lots of impressive with light, delicate,sparkling wines, rieslings, chardonnays and sweet whites, reflecting berryish flavours, aMarlborough’s versatility as a wine-producing region. hint of oranges, gentle yeastiness and a slightlyPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available sweet finish. $17in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US). SAUVIGNON BLANC 87 TASTED 59 AWARDEDsparkling Huia Brut Tohu Rewa Reserve From the bumper 2014 Giesen The August 2009 HHHH Marlborough Blanc and 2013 growing 1888 Marlborough11 TASTED Fragrant, rich bouquet. de Blancs seasons, the panel found Sauvignon Blanc9 AWARDED Generous, toasty and 2011 HHHH lots of attractive, fresh, 2012 HHHHH yeasty, in a full-flavoured Scented, yeasty, clearly varietal wines, but Fermented in FrenchA strong class. The style, with upfront appeal chardonnay-based few real highlights. Only oak barrels and Germanpanel found several and good complexity. wine, very crisp and two wines out of 65 from oak fuders, this is aimpressively scented, Drinking well now. $38 lively, with citrusy, the unprecedentedly superb example of oak-tightly structured (A, UK, US) gently toasty flavours heavy 2014 harvest influenced sauvignonand complex Hunter’s Miru Miru and a dryish, very finely earned five stars. blanc. Very fleshy,wines, underlining NV HHHH balanced finish. $34 Top marks to Giesen, weighty, complex andMarlborough’s status Fresh and aromatic, with Brancott Estate Brut however, for producing rich, it is finely textured,as the country’s key an attractive lightness Cuvee NV HHH several ageworthy, barrel- with concentrated, ripe,region for bottle- and vivacity. Crisp, This bottle-fermented fermented wines from stonefruit flavours,fermented sparkling. citrusy, appley, yeasty blend of chardonnay and the 2012 vintage, which gently seasoned with flavours, showing good pinot noir is lively, with are currently in full stride. smoky oak. DeliciousDeutz Marlborough tightness, delicacy and fresh acidity and citrusy, now. Rated highly by allCuvee NV HHHHH complexity. $27 appley, gently yeasty Stoneleigh Rapaura judges. $44 (UK, US)Complex style, highly Nautilus Cuvee flavours. $17 Series Marlboroughfragrant, with a delicate Marlborough Brut Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc‘bead’ and rich, yeasty, NV HHHH Flight Sparkling 2014 HHHHHbiscuity aromas and Tight, complex style, Marlborough Passionfruit and nettleflavours, finely balanced attractively scented, Sauvignon Blanc aromas and flavours,and lingering. Rated highly with strong, lively, NV HHH showing excellentby all judges. $26.60 peachy and biscuity Youthful, sauvignon blanc intensity. Very fresh and flavours, fresh, dryish aromas lead into a simple attractive, with zesty and long. $39 but lively wine, with acidity and a lively, Nautilus Vintage passionfruit and nettle lingering finish. $28 Rosé 2012 HHHH flavours, good freshness Pale pink, dry and lively, and weight. $17 with subtle, crisp, strawberryish, yeasty flavours, in a very fresh and elegant style. $4990 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

regional tastingSaint Clair Pioneer Giesen The Fuder Mt Vernon Spy Valley Babich Winemakers’Block 3 43 Degrees Matthews Lane Marlborough Marlborough ReserveMarlborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHHH 2014 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc2014 HHHHH 2012 HHHH Fleshy, generous, Wairau Mouthfilling, crisp and 2013 HHH1/2Fleshy, concentrated Fermented and matured Valley wine, blended lively, with strong, Weighty, finely texturedwine from the lower in new German oak from sauvignon blanc (87 ripe melon and green wine, with ripelyWairau Valley. Intensely fuders, this is a fleshy, per cent) and a splash of capsicum flavours, herbaceous flavours,aromatic, with a hint of weighty wine, with semillon (13 per cent). showing good vigour and showing very good“sweaty armpit”, strong, strong, ripe, tropical Scented, with pure, weight. $22 (A, UK, US) depth, and crisp, livelyripe, very pure passionfruit/ fruit flavours, showing tropical fruit flavours, a Tohu Mugwi Reserve acidity. Fresh and stilllime flavours and a long, a toasty, smoky, oak- nettley streak and good Marlborough youthful. $30 (A)dry, well-rounded finish. derived complexity, and length. (From Lawson’s Sauvignon Blanc Clos Henri$27 (A, UK) a dry, finely textured Dry Hills.) $18 (A, UK) 2013 HHHH MarlboroughTinpot Hut finish. $45 (A) Rochfort Rees Barrel-fermented style Sauvignon BlancMarlborough Awatere Valley from the Awatere Valley, 2013 HHH1/2Sauvignon Blanc Ara Single Estate Marlborough with fresh, ripe flavours, Weighty, with strong2014 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc showing excellent depth melon, lime andFleshy, lively and rich Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHHH and harmony. Slightly capsicum flavours in ain a clearly herbaceous 2014 HHHH Maturing well, this creamy and biscuity, with classic regional style.style, with a lingering Mouthfilling, with single-vineyard wine good complexity. $30 (UK) Still very fresh andfinish. Weighty and very good vigour has strong, grassy, Tohu Single aromatic, with goodpungent. $22 (A, UK) and depth of ripe limey and herbal flavours, Vineyard ripeness and depth.Giesen The Fuder passionfruit, capsicum very fresh, punchy and Marlborough $32 (A, UK, US)Dillons Point and lime flavours, well- lifted. $23 (A) Sauvignon Blanc Esk ValleyMarlborough rounded and lingering. Saint Clair 2014 HHHH MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc $22 (A, UK, US) Marlborough Aromatic, lively, freshly Sauvignon Blanc2012 HHHH Lawson’s Dry Sauvignon Blanc herbaceous style, grown 2014 HHH1/2Sturdy and fleshy, with Hills Reserve 2014 HHHH in the Awatere Valley. Lively, with ripelyrich, ripely herbaceous Marlborough Fleshy and full-bodied, in Appley and limey, with herbaceous flavoursflavours, showing a Sauvignon Blanc a classic Wairau Valley some riper, passionfruit of melons and greenmealy, slightly nutty 2014 HHHH style, with strong, fresh, notes, good palate capsicums, showing verycomplexity. Ready. Fleshy, full-bodied tropical fruit flavours that weight and a lengthy good varietal character(Fermented in German style, with fresh, linger well. $22 (A, UK) finish. $20 (A, UK, US) and depth. Enjoyed by alloak fuders.) $45 (A) ripe passionfruit/lime Saint Clair Pioneer Twin Islands judges. $21 flavours, showing Block 1 Foundation Marlborough Giesen Marlborough good concentration. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Grown at two sites in Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHHH 2014 HHH1/2 the Southern Valleys 2014 HHHH Fragrant, full-bodied and Mouthfilling, fleshy, and 5 per cent barrel- Aromatic, fresh and dry, with fresh, ripe, Wairau Valley style, fermented. $25 (A, UK) zingy, with strong tropical fruit flavours, a with crisp, crunchy, melon, green capsicum herbaceous undercurrent, gooseberryish, nettley and passionfruit and very good depth. flavours, showing good flavours, and a crisp, Enjoyed by all judges. persistence. Fine value. fully dry finish. $27 (A) Good value. $19 $17 (A, UK, US) Saint Clair Yealands Estate Giesen The Fuder Wairau Reserve Single Block Dillons Point Marlborough M2 Organic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 “Sweaty armpit” and 2014 HHHH Weighty, with herbaceous aromas, Freshly herbaceous concentrated, ripe, leading into a very fresh, Wairau Valley wine, with tropical fruit flavours, a punchy, vibrant wine, tight, crisp, melon and slightly nutty complexity with good weight and green capsicum flavours and a dry, finely textured ripe passionfruit, lime that linger well. Slightly finish. Ready. (Fermented and capsicum flavours ‘sweaty’ notes, with in new German oak that linger well. Grown good weight, texture and fuders.) $45 (A) in the lower Wairau intensity. $25 (A, UK) Valley. $34 (A) March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 91

MARLBOROUGHGrove Mill Saint Clair Vicar’s Supper Club Clifford Bay JohanneshofMarlborough Choice Marlborough Marlborough Marlborough Cellars MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH 2014 HHHFresh, green-edged, Strongly varietal wine, Fresh, lively, tropical Crisp, lively and limey, Easy-drinking, medium-punchy and crisp, from sites in the fruit-flavoured wine, in a medium-bodied bodied style, withwith an aromatic Wairau and Brancott grown at Rapaura style, with some tropical freshly herbaceousbouquet and melon/ valleys. Light and lively, (mostly) and Dillons fruit notes and good aromas and flavours,lime flavours showing with fresh, ripe, citrusy Point, in the Wairau balance. Priced sharply. hints of peas andvery good vibrancy and and limey flavours, Valley. Very good vigour, $15 (A, US) asparagus, slightlydepth. $20 (US) showing very good balance and depth. Fine Falconhead spicy notes, and a veryHarwood Hall depth. $20 (A, UK) value. $15 Marlborough smooth finish. $25Marlborough Selaks Founders Toi Toi Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Kim Crawford SmallSauvignon Blanc Marlborough Marlborough 2014 HHH Parcels Spitfire2014 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Mouthfilling, with fresh, MarlboroughGently herbaceous 2014 HHH1/2 2013 HHH1/2 ripely herbaceous, Sauvignon Blancwine, grown in the Aromatic, clearly Fresh and sweet-fruited, moderately concentrated 2014 HHHSouthern Valleys and herbaceous style, with with good weight and flavours and a dry finish. ‘Sweaty’ aromatics,at Rarangi. Rich and lots of vigour on the depth of ripe, tropical Priced right. $16 (A, UK) leading intoripe, with fresh acidity palate and fresh, limey fruit flavours. Slightly Folium Vineyard a moderatelyand a slightly smoky flavours, lifted and toasty, bottle-aged notes Marlborough concentrated, citrusy,complexity. $19 (A, UK) lively. $25 starting to emerge. $22 Sauvignon Blanc slightly minerally palate,Hunky Dory Selaks Reserve Vavasour 2013 HHH with some herbal notesMarlborough Marlborough Marlborough Still fresh and punchy, and a smooth finish. $33Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc with ripe, tropical fruit Lawson’s Dry2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH1/2 aromas and flavours, Hills MarlboroughMouthfilling, with ripe, Fresh, with citrusy, Freshly aromatic, with good weight and a crisp, Sauvignon Blanctropical fruit flavours and appley flavours and very good depth of dry finish. $28 2014 HHHa lengthy, rounded, well- a hint of passionfruit. vibrant gooseberry Highfield Fleshy, with tropical fruitbalanced finish. Certified Clearly varietal, and green capsicum Marlborough and herbaceous flavours,organic. (From Huia.) herbaceous style, crisp flavours, finely balanced Sauvignon Blanc strongly varietal, crisp and$18 (A, UK, US) and lingering. $17 and lingering. $21 (A, 2013 HHH lively. (8 per cent barrel-Paua Marlborough Sherwood Estate UK, US) Fleshy, with grassy, fermented.) $20 (UK)Sauvignon Blanc Signature Family Babich Family limey aromatics Misty Cove2013 HHH1/2 Marlborough Estates Cowslip and a fresh, vibrant SignatureFleshy and crisp, with Sauvignon Blanc Valley Marlborough palate offering ripely Marlboroughfresh, ripe, tropical fruit 2014 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc herbaceous flavours, Sauvignon Blancand herbaceous flavours Fresh and mouthfilling, 2014 HHH crisp and lively. $25 (A) 2013 HHHthat linger well. (From with ripe, “sweaty Attractively scented, Huia Marlborough Tightly structured, full-Highfield.) $20 (A) armpit” notes and good fresh and lively, with Sauvignon Blanc bodied style from theSaint Clair Vicar’s depth of tropical fruit melon and lime flavours 2013 HHH Wairau Valley, with ripe,Choice Bright flavours. Weighty and showing good balance Maturing well, with fresh, tropical fruit flavours,Light Marlborough finely textured. One and crispness. $25 strong citrus, melon and showing good depth.Sauvignon Blanc judge scored it five Babich Family lime flavours, and a crisp $20 (UK, US)2014 HHH1/2 stars. $19 (A, UK, US) Estates Headwaters finish. Certified organic. NautilusNettley, grassy aromas, Stoneleigh Latitude Organic Block $25 (A, UK, US) Marlboroughwith a very fresh, lively Marlborough Marlborough Hunter’s Sauvignon Blancpalate showing good Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 HHHflavour depth. “Green, 2014 HHH1/2 2014 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Fresh, lively and ripelynice but lightweight,” Fresh, herbaceous and Full-flavoured, with 2014 HHH herbaceous, in anoted one judge. Low crisp, with grapefruit and good weight, fresh, ripe Crisp, ripely herbaceous medium-bodied style,alcohol style (9.5 per herb flavours that linger melon and capsicum style, fresh and vibrantly with melon, passionfruitcent/vol) with 8g/litre of well. Described by one characters and a crisp, fruity, showing good and lime flavours, and aresidual sugar. $20 judge as “minerally” and dry finish. $27 (A, US) weight and flavour smooth finish. $25 another as “chalky”. $23 depth. $21judgesMichael Cooper Kay Morganty Michael IvicevichWinestate’s New Zealand editor is the Winestate’s Chief winemaker forauthor of the internationally acclaimed New Zealand Oyster Bay Wines andWine Atlas of New Zealand and the administrator, Delegat’s Wine Estate,annual New Zealand Wine 2015 - Kay is a highly Michael is a senior judgeMichael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide. In experienced and panel leader for Newthe 2004 New Year Honours, Michael senior judge in Zealand competitions.was appointed an Officer of the New New Zealand His parents own WestZealand Order of Merit for services to competitions. Brook Winery, based inwine writing. Auckland.92 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

regional tastingOpawa Marlborough Villa Maria RIESLING Highfield Tohu MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc Reserve Clifford Marlborough Riesling 20142014 HHH Bay Marlborough 18 TASTED Riesling 2013 HHH1/2Lively and crisp, with Sauvignon Blanc 14 AWARDED HHHH1/2 Elegant, lively Awateremelon, gooseberry 2014 HHH Light and lively, with Valley wine, very freshand green capsicum Freshly scented, with A strong class in lemon, apple and lime and vibrant, with goodflavours, showing good gooseberry and nettle which Marlborough flavours, gently sweet, aromatics and lots ofbalance and depth. aromas. Lively, dry demonstrated its ability deliciously fresh, pure and crisp, citrusy, limey“Fresh and breezy,” and herbaceous, with to produce an array zingy. $20 (A, UK, US) flavour. $22noted one judge. $20 appetising acidity. $28 of riesling styles - dry, Spy Valley EnvoyRussian Jack (UK) medium and sweet. The Johnson Vineyard Coopers CreekMarlborough Villa Maria Reserve region’s traditional riesling Dry Riesling MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley style (medium-bodied, 2013 HHHH Riesling 2014 HHH2014 HHH Marlborough with a gentle splash of Mouthfilling and dryish Fleshy, full-bodiedEasy-drinking style, with Sauvignon Blanc sweetness) survives, but in a very full-bodied, wine, grown in theripe, tropical fruit flavours 2014 HHH is now joined by lighter, oak-fermented style, Wairau Valley. Dryish,and a smooth finish. Fresh and very youthful, medium-sweet wines, with strong, citrusy with citrusy flavoursFresh, crisp and aromatic. in a medium-bodied with notable freshness flavours, hints of showing good acidityFine value. $15 style, with strongly and depth. pineapple and toast, and and length. $18Toi Toi Marlborough varietal, melon and good complexity andSauvignon Blanc green capsicum Saint Clair Pioneer harmony. Drink now or Johanneshof2014 HHH flavours. $28 (A, UK) Block 9 Big John cellar. $32 Cellars MarlboroughLight and crisp, with Yealands Estate Marlborough Villa Maria Riesling 2013 HHHcitrusy, limey flavours Land Made Riesling 2013 Reserve Dry Riesling Full-bodied, medium-showing a touch of Marlborough HHHHH 2012 HHHH dry style, with strong,complexity, and good Sauvignon Blanc Highly scented, with Elegant, off-dry style, ripe, citrusy flavoursfreshness and depth. $18 2014 HHH limey, slightly toasty still very fresh and and a faint hint ofTupari Marlborough Mouthfilling blend of aromas. Very fresh, zingy, crisp, with pure, citrusy botrytis. Well-rounded,Sauvignon Blanc Wairau and Awatere light-bodied style (9 per flavours and excellent with current-drinking2013 HHH Valley fruit. Fresh, ripe, cent alc/vol) with gentle texture, harmony and appeal. $26Awatere Valley wine, tropical fruit flavours to sweetness (34g/litre length. $28maturing solidly, with the fore, lively and long. residual sugar) and lovely Spy Valley Tohu Marlboroughmouthfilling body and $20 (A, UK) vivacity and intensity. Marlborough Riesling Riesling 2013 HHHripely herbaceous Yealands Estate Luscious wine, well 2013 HHH1/2 Dry style from theflavours, still fresh and Single Block S1 worth cellaring. $27 (UK) Fleshy, medium-dry Awatere Valley, withcrisp. $27 Marlborough style, with citrus, crisp, lively, lemony,Vidal Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Spy Valley orange peel, honey and limey flavours, still veryMarlborough 2014 HHH Envoy Riesling wax aromas. Finely fresh and vibrant. $22Sauvignon Blanc Green-edged, lively, 2010 HHHHH balanced, with very2014 HHH Awatere Valley wine Rich, light-bodied wine good ripeness and Tupari Dry RieslingLively, with delicate with fresh, zesty, (7 per cent alc/vol) with depth. $25 (A, UK, US) 2013 HHHaromatics and tight, strongly varietal flavours, toasty, bottle-aged Hunter’s Single-vineyard, Awaterecrisp melon/lime woven with appetising complexity emerging Marlborough Valley wine, full-bodiedflavours. Slightly lean, acidity. $25 (A, UK, US) and lovely vigour, Riesling 2013 and citrusy, withwith some ripeness and Yealands Estate concentration and HHH1/2 subtle toast and honeyrichness. $21 Single Vineyard harmony. Luscious, Aromatic, with hints of characters, and good Marlborough sweet but not super- orange peel and spice. balance and depth. $29 Sauvignon Blanc sweet (88g/litre Good body and depth 2014 HHH residual sugar) style, of fresh, citrusy, slightly PINOT GRIS Fleshy, ripe and with good acid spine. sweet, crisp flavours. rounded, with good Praised by one judge Tight, youthful and well- 34 TASTED depth of fresh, tropical as “outrageous and worth cellaring. $21 19 AWARDED fruit flavours. (Estate- impossible to spit”! Tohu Marlborough grown in the Awatere $32 (A, US) Riesling 2012 A solid class. Many of Valley.) $23 (A, UK, US) HHH1/2 the wines were bland, Grove Mill Mouthfilling Awatere lacking any real richnessNick Picone Marlborough Valley wine, with ripe and personality, but theSenior Auckland winemaker Riesling 2013 citrus and passionfruit panel also found severalfor Villa Maria, Nick grew up HHHH1/2 flavours, and a dry finish. satisfying, moderatelyin Hawke’s Bay and also has Fleshy, ripe and High acidity gives a touch priced wines from theseveral years of winemaking concentrated, with a of austerity, but toast 2014 vintage, suggestingexperience in Marlborough. floral, slightly honeyed and marmalade notes that this early-ripeningIn 2012 he was awarded bouquet, good acid add complexity. $22 variety missed the heavythe Wine Society’s Young spine, and excellent late-season rains.Winemaker of the Year title. weight and depth. $20 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E 93

MARLBOROUGHStaete Landt Estate Clifford Bay Tiki Single Vineyard Villa Maria Spy Valley EnvoyMarlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Cellar Selection Johnson VineyardGris 2013 HHHHH Gris 2014 HHHH Gris 2014 HHHH Marlborough Pinot MarlboroughAn Alsace-style from Elegant wine, with Mouthfilling wine, Gris 2014 HHH1/2 Gewurztraminerthe Wairau Valley, strong, ripe fruit flavours estate-grown in the Weighty, dryish style, 2013 HHHHbargain-priced. Fleshy of lemons, apples upper Wairau Valley. with very good depth Perfumed, weightyand mouthfilling, with and pears, excellent Crisp lemon, apple and of fresh, citrusy, slightly and lush, withconcentrated, ripe harmony and an spice flavours, showing spicy flavour and a hint concentrated, ripestonefruit flavours, enticingly floral bouquet. a touch of complexity, of almonds. $20 (A, UK) stonefruit and spiceslightly honeyed and $20 (A) good texture and very flavours, an oily texturetoasty notes, and a rich, Coopers Creek satisfying depth. $25 (A, Harwood Hall and a hint of botrytis.rounded finish. A top SV The Pointer UK, US) Marlborough Pinot One judge scored it fivebuy. $19 (A, UK, US) Marlborough Pinot Gris 2014 HHH stars. (Single vineyardVilla Maria Single Gris 2014 HHHH Vavasour Fleshy, full-bodied style, wine from the WaihopaiVineyard Seddon Attractively scented Marlborough Pinot with lemon, apple and Valley, oak-fermented.)Marlborough Pinot Brancott Valley wine, Gris 2013 HHHH pear flavours, and a $32 (A)Gris 2014 HHHHH with pear, apple and Drinking well now, this dryish, slightly nutty JohanneshofFreshly scented wine, almond aromas. Full- partly (10 per cent) finish. $19 (A) Cellars Marlboroughestate-grown and bodied, rich and rounded, barrel-fermented wine Gewurztraminerhand-picked in the with fresh, lingering is full-bodied and dryish, Huia Marlborough 2013 HHH1/2Awatere Valley and flavours, showing with strong, citrusy, Pinot Gris 2013 HHH Full-bodied, distinctlypartly (20 per cent) excellent delicacy and slightly nutty flavours Weighty, barrel-aged medium style (21g/litrebarrel-fermented. harmony. $25 and a crisp, lingering wine, with substantial residual sugar) withVibrant, with a slightly Dashwood finish. $23 (A) body, fresh, citrusy, very good depth ofoily texture and strong Marlborough Pinot appley flavours and lychee, peach and spicelemon, apple and spice Gris 2014 HHHH Tupari Marlborough slightly toasty notes flavours, and a well-flavours that linger Ripely scented and Pinot Gris 2014 adding complexity. rounded finish. $30well. $33 (UK) finely textured, with HHHH Certified organic. $28 (A, Saint Clair PioneerSpy Valley Envoy mouthfilling body and Fleshy, mouthfilling wine UK, US) Block 12 LoneMarlborough Pinot pear, lychee and quince from the Awatere Valley, Gum MarlboroughGris 2011 HHHH1/2 flavours showing with concentrated, ripe, Opawa Marlborough GewurztraminerPowerful, full-bodied excellent freshness and stonefruit flavours, an Pinot Gris 2014 HHH 2013 HHH1/2style, with a gentle richness. Fine value. $19 oily texture and a dryish Lively, with fresh, Highly perfumed,splash of sweetness (A, UK) finish. Freshly scented, appley, slightly peachy mouthfilling andand excellent richness, Saint Clair with good delicacy and and nutty flavours, and a softly textured,complexity, texture and Marlborough Pinot harmony. $27 crisp, dryish finish. $23 with low acidity, aharmony. Delicious now, Gris 2014 HHHH splash of sweetnessbut still youthful. $32 Mouthfilling, dryish Babich Black Label Stoneleigh and moderatelyBrancott Estate style, attractively Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot concentrated, gentlyLetter Series F scented, with fresh, Gris 2014 HHH1/2 Gris 2014 HHH spicy flavours. $27 (UK)Marlborough Pinot strong, citrusy, appley Sturdy, with strong, Mouthfilling, with fresh Spy ValleyGris 2014 HHHH flavours, finely balanced ripe stonefruit, pear and lychee, pear and spice MarlboroughRich and rounded, and lingering. $22 (A) spice flavours, balanced flavours, a gentle splash Gewurztraminerwith substantial body, acidity and a dryish, of sweetness and easy- 2013 HHH1/2a slightly oily texture lingering finish. $25 (A) drinking charm. $17 Aromatic andand ripe, slightly sweet mouthfilling, with strong,lychee and spice Nautilus GEWURZ- ripe stonefruit, gingerflavours, showing some Marlborough Pinot TRAMINER and spice flavours, and atoasty complexity. $33 Gris 2014 HHH1/2 well-rounded finish. $25 Mouthfilling and finely 6 TASTED (A, UK, US) textured, with very 5 AWARDED star ratings  good depth of fresh peach, quince and A small but rewardingThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of pear flavours, and an class in which most of theexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. attractively scented wines were attractivelyAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry bouquet. $29 perfumed, with plentyprofessionals and are compared in peer of peachy, spicy, well-classes by three judges. Tohu Awatere Valley rounded flavour.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Marlborough Pinota major mail-order business. Gris 2014 HHH1/2 Grove MillCD Cellar door price. Fresh and lively, with MarlboroughCDO Cellar door only. citrusy, appley, slightly GewurztraminerSO Sold out. spicy flavours and a 2013 HHHH$N/A Price not available at time of printing. hint of almonds. Dry Fleshy, with lush, ripe style with good varietal stonefruit and spice Contact information pg 136. character and depth. $22 flavours, a slightly oily texture and good RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). concentration. (10 per cent barrel-fermented.) Enjoyed by all judges. $2094 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015



MARLBOROUGHCHARDONNAY Saint Clair Nautilus Giesen The Fuder SWEET Omaka Reserve Marlborough Clayvin Marlborough WHITES20 TASTED Marlborough Chardonnay 2013 Chardonnay15 AWARDED Chardonnay 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHH 6 TASTEDA strong class in which HHHH Fragrant and fleshy, Smoky, slightly funky 6 AWARDEDthe panel found lots of Fleshy, weighty, with strong, ripe fruit bouquet. Mouthfillingsatisfyingly full-bodied, punchy style, with flavours, a slightly and vibrant, with strong A small but highlyvibrant wines, with rich, ripe, stone-fruit creamy texture, and fruit flavours, tightly impressive classrich, ripe fruit flavours flavours and a strong gentle biscuity and structured and youthful. featuring outstandingand well-integrated seasoning of toasty oak mealy notes adding $60 (A) dessert wines madeoak - French, American from fermentation and complexity. $34 Saint Clair Pioneer from both riesling andand German - adding maturation in American Saint Clair Block 4 Sawcut sauvignon blanc.complexity. oak barrels (50 per cent Marlborough Marlborough new). Lots of youthful Chardonnay ChardonnayGiesen The Fuder impact. $38 (A, UK) 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHHClayvin Marlborough Fresh, fruity and full- Elegant, youthfulChardonnay 2012 Saint Clair Pioneer bodied, with vibrant, wine grown in theHHHHH Block 11 Cell citrusy flavours to the Ure Valley. Fresh andPowerful, complex wine, Block Marlborough fore in a moderately peachy, with a creamywith substantial body, Chardonnay 2013 complex style, with a texture and some nutty,rich, citrusy, slightly HHHH creamy texture. $22 mealy complexity.nutty flavours and a Creamy and full- Saint Clair Pioneer Needs time. $33beautifully harmonious, bodied, with strong, Block 10 Twinlasting finish. (Grown in citrusy, buttery, Hills Marlborough OTHERthe Clayvin Vineyard, in biscuity flavours. Rich, Chardonnay WHITESthe Brancott Valley, and moderately complex 2013 HHH1/2fermented and matured style, with “plenty to Fleshy and finely 5 TASTEDin new German oak enjoy”. $33 textured, with strong,fuders.) $60 (A) ripe, citrusy, peachy 3 AWARDEDVilla Maria Single Villa Maria flavours, slightlyVineyard Taylors Cellar Selection biscuity, well-rounded Nautilus Giesen The BrothersPass Marlborough Marlborough and harmonious. $33 Marlborough Late HarvestChardonnay 2013 Chardonnay 2013 Spy Valley Gruner Veltliner MarlboroughHHHHH HHHH Marlborough 2014 HHHH Sauvignon BlancRich, complex and finely Fleshy, with strong, ripe, Chardonnay Fleshy and forward, 2012 (375ml)textured wine from citrusy flavours to the 2013 HHH1/2 with generous, peachy, HHHHHthe Awatere Valley, fore and barrel-ferment Very fresh and lively, in slightly spicy flavours, This beauty rompedhand-picked and barrel- complexity. Fragrant, a vibrantly fruity style, showing excellent straight to five stars onfermented. Highly fragrant with finely integrated, with strong, citrusy, ripeness, depth and all of the judges’ scoreand weighty, with ripe, spicy oak, a slightly peachy, slightly biscuity harmony. Drinking well sheets. Light gold, itnutty flavours, very creamy texture, and flavours and crisp from the start. $29 is highly concentrated,generous and refined. good freshness and acidity. $25 Yealands Estate sweet and oily, in aAn obvious candidate for vibrancy. Great value. Tohu Marlborough Single Vineyard PGR ‘decadent’ style, with ancellaring. $38 (UK) $20 (UK) Chardonnay 2014 HHHH array of apricot, golden 2013 HHH Aromatic blend of syrup, nut and honey Villa Maria Reserve Fruit-driven style grown pinot gris (49 per cent), flavours, luscious and Marlborough at Rapaura and handled riesling (32 per cent) long. (Harvested in July Chardonnay 2013 without oak. Fresh, and gewurztraminer at 38 brix.) $30 (A) HHHH citrusy aromas and (19 per cent) grown Mouthfilling and fleshy, flavours, showing good in the Awatere Valley. with strong, ripe, depth, with a slightly Mouthfilling and dry, stonefruit flavours, creamy mouthfeel. $22 with gentle spiciness good complexity and a Vavasour and excellent weight, rounded finish. Toasty Marlborough texture and harmony. and nutty, with fresh Chardonnay $23 (A, UK) acidity. $33 2013 HHH1/2 Mouthfilling, with very Brancott Estate Giesen The Brothers good depth of citrusy, Marlborough Marlborough peachy flavours, mealy, Sauvignon Gris Chardonnay 2013 buttery notes adding 2014 HHH HHH1/2 richness and a strong Aromatic, with good Powerful, fleshy oak influence. Well weight and depth of wine, fermented in worth cellaring. $31 (A) vibrant, limey and spicy oak puncheons and flavours, and subtle fuders. Strong stone- smoky notes. Very fresh fruit flavours, with and lively. $17 some toasty, biscuity complexity and good length. $33 (A)96 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

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MARLBOROUGH Tupari Late Harvest Ara Single Estate Spy Valley Giesen Single Marlborough Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Vineyard Selection Riesling 2014 Noir Rosé 2014 HHH Merlot Malbec Clayvin Marlborough (375ml) HHHH Bright, pink/red colour. 2012 HHH1/2 Syrah 2012 HHHH Pale gold, Awatere Light and lively, with Deeply coloured blend Deep, bright colour. Valley wine, with a vibrantly fruity, raspberry of merlot (86 per cent) Fragrant and honeyed bouquet, and and spice flavours, fresh and malbec (14 per mouthfilling, with good intensity and drive and strong. $25 cent), matured in generous, ripe plum, on the palate. Lemon, Awatere River by French oak barrels pepper and olive apricot, honey and Louis Vavasour (35 per cent new). flavours, savoury and marmalade flavours, Single Vineyard Gutsy, with strong, lingering. Enjoyed by all with a strong botrytis Rosé 2014 HHH ripe, plum and spice judges. $70 influence. Fresh, sweet Pale pink, light and flavours, brambly and and finely balanced. $35 lively, with fresh earthy notes adding Spy Valley strawberry and spice complexity, and a firm Marlborough SyrahTohu Limited Harwood Hall flavours. Vibrantly fruity, foundation of tannin. $25 2012 HHHRelease Raiha Vendange Tardive easy drinking. $23 (A) Full, bright colour.Reserve Noble Marlborough Georges Michel SYRAH Medium-bodied style,Marlborough Viognier 2012 Summer Folly Rosé with strong, plummy,Riesling 2013 (375ml) HHH 2014 HHH 5 TASTED spicy, slightly herbal and(375ml) HHHHH Light gold, youthful Pale red, mouthfilling and 4 AWARDED gamey flavours. Barrel-Lovely late harvest style wine, mouthfilling, with fleshy, with generous, aged for nearly twofrom the Awatere Valley, sweet, peachy flavours berryish flavours, A promising performance years. $36 (UK)with fresh lime, lemon and a strong seasoning although one judge from a variety generallyand marmalade aromas. of nutty oak. $25 described it as “chunky” regarded as better suited Staete Landt ArieSweet palate, very pure and another as “pinot dry to the warmth of the Marlborough Syrahand long, with a subtle ROSÉ red-like”. $18 North Island. 2011 HHHbotrytis influence. Very Saint Clair Bright ruby, with fresh,ageworthy. $28 8 TASTED Marlborough Pinot strong plum, spice and 7 AWARDED Gris Rosé 2014 HHH herb flavours, and a Pale pink, with gentle fairly firm finish. Drinking A good but not great strawberry and spice well now. $27 (A, UK, class featuring several flavours and a finely US) attractive, buoyantly balanced, dryish finish, fruity, dry rosés, based fresh and lively. $22 (UK) PINOT NOIR principally on pinot noir. 66 TASTED 45 AWARDEDGiesen The Brothers Tiki Estate OTHER REDS Giesen Single A good but notLate Harvest Marlborough Pinot Vineyard Selection outstanding class inMarlborough Noir Rosé 2014 2 TASTED Clayvin Marlborough which the judges gaveSauvignon Blanc HHHH 2 AWARDED Syrah 2011 HHHHH lots of four-star awards2013 (375ml) Pale pink, mouthfilling Perfumed, boldly but just one five-starHHHH1/2 and dryish, in a Charles Wiffen coloured red from rating. Many of the topPale gold, fleshy, fleshy, vibrantly fruity Marlborough Merlot 19-year-old vines in wines were of single-honeyed wine, with style, with strong 2013 HHH1/2 the Brancott Valley. vineyard and single blockripe peach, apricot and strawberryish, slightly Full, bright colour. Powerful and fleshy, origin, as Marlborough’spassionfruit flavours, spicy flavours and a Medium-bodied style, with deep plum and pinot noir winemakerssweet and soft. “Very fresh, creamy-smooth with strong, berryish, spice flavours, fine- explore the nuances ofmoreish,” enthused one finish. $20 (A) spicy flavours, some grained tannins and a their terroir.judge. $30 (A) leafy elements, gentle lasting finish. One of theVilla Maria Tohu Single tannins and good region’s finest syrah’sCellar Selection Vineyard harmony. $25 yet. $70 (A)Late Harvest Marlborough PinotMarlborough Rosé 2014 HHH1/2Riesling 2013 Pale red. Full-bodied(375ml) HHHH1/2 and vibrantly fruity, withLight gold. gentle, berryish flavoursConcentrated, peachy, and a fresh, finelystrongly honeyed balanced, crisp, dryflavours, with advanced finish. $22sweetness, a powerfulbotrytis influence and Torea Marlboroughgood acid spine. Opulent Pinot Rosé 2014wine, offering excellent HHH1/2value. $20 Pale red, light and smooth, with buoyant, berryish, spicy flavours, showing very good balance and length. $2098 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015

regional tasting Folium Vineyard Ara Select Block Giesen Single Marlborough Pinot Limited Release M36 Vineyard Selection Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Ridge Block Dark and purple-flushed Noir 2012 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Brancott Valley red, with Full-coloured and Noir 2013 HHHH concentrated cherry/ weighty, with rich, Full-coloured, savoury plum flavours, tight plummy flavours, and complex style, and youthful. Densely gamey, smoky, toasty with concentrated, ripe structured and worth and spicy. Full-on style flavours, showing good cellaring to 2016+. One with some earthy notes, complexity. Dense, dark judge scored it five good concentration and and ‘brooding’. Certified stars. Fine value. $30 (A) complexity. $40 (UK) organic. $60 (A)Giesen Single Giesen Single Sanctuary Ara Select Blocks Grove MillVineyard Selection Vineyard Selection Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Marlborough PinotClayvin Marlborough Ridge Block Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 Noir 2012 HHHH Noir 2013 HHHHPinot Noir 2013 Marlborough Pinot A great buy from Full, bright colour. Bright ruby, with veryHHHHH Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 Foley Family Wines. Concentrated, ripe good depth of youthful,This beautiful wine Deep, youthful colour. Generous, fresh and and savoury, with ripe cherry, plum andwent straight to a Sturdy and savoury, sweet-fruited, with youthful vigour and a spice flavours, balancedfive-star rating on all with substantial body youthful, ripe plum, finely balanced, slightly tannins and finelyof the judges’ score and concentrated, ripe cherry and spice earthy finish, showing integrated oak. Savoury,sheets. Deep ruby, it plum and spice flavours. flavours, oak complexity good complexity. $30 slightly earthy notes addis sweet-fruited and Fragrant, structured, and fine-grained tannins. (A, UK, US) complexity. Needs time;concentrated, with ‘serious’ wine, built for One judge scored it five Ara Single Estate best drinking 2016+.impressive structure the long haul. $60 (A) stars. $20 (A, UK) Marlborough Pinot $31 (US)and harmony. Powerful, Ara Select Block Noir 2013 HHHH Huia Marlboroughdense, silky and Limited Release J52 Youthful, with vibrant Pinot Noirlingering, with lovely Marlborough Pinot plum, cherry and spice 2012 HHHHflow across the palate, Noir 2012 HHHH flavours, showing Mouthfilling, firm andit was praised by one Full-coloured and some complexity. concentrated, withpanellist as “great”! firmly structured, with Very fragrant, silky and fresh, deep plum/spice$60 (A) slightly earthy notes and harmonious. $25 (A, flavours, structured, strong, plummy, gamey UK, US) youthful and lingering. flavours, savoury and Esk Valley ‘Serious’ style, certified lingering. $40 (UK) Marlborough Pinot organic. $38 (A, UK, US) Ara Select Block Noir 2013 HHHH Limited Release K54 Floral and sweet-fruited, Marlborough Pinot with vibrant plum and Noir 2012 HHHH spice flavours, good Full-coloured, with an harmony and potential. earthy streak. Weighty, Fresh, elegant wine that smoky and savoury, with lingers well. $33 (UK) good richness through the palate. $40 (UK) WWW.FESTIVALCITYWINES.COM.AU 99 March/April 2015 W I N E S TAT E

MARLBOROUGHSaint Clair Saint Clair Pioneer Soderberg Coopers Creek Villa Maria SingleMarlborough Pinot Block 5 Bull Block Home Block SV Gibsons Run Vineyard SeddonNoir 2013 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Single Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Marlborough PinotRuby hued, attractively Noir 2013 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 HHH1/2 Noir 2011 HHH1/2fragrant red, with fresh, Concentrated red, grown Noir 2012 HHHH Attractively scented Bright ruby. Mouthfillingstrong cherry, plum in the Omaka Valley. Fresh and lively, with Brancott Valley red with and savoury, withand spice flavours. Savoury, with strong strong plum and spice plenty of ripe, plummy, strong, sweet-fruitModerately complex, cherry, plum and spice flavours. Sweet-fruited and spicy flavour, showing flavours, showingvibrantly fruity style, flavours, well-seasoned savoury, with good weight some complexity, fine- some nutty complexity.grown in the Southern with toasty oak (French, and length. Certified grained tannins and Drinking well now. $57Valleys and partly barrel- 38 per cent new), and organic. $37 (A, UK) good length. $25 Ara Select Blockaged. Delicious young. good tannin support. Villa Maria Reserve Misty Cove Limited Release M62$27 (A, UK) Firm, structured style, Marlborough Pinot Signature Marlborough PinotSaint Clair well worth cellaring. $38 Noir 2012 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Noir 2012 HHHOmaka Reserve Saint Clair Pioneer Fresh, full-coloured Noir 2013 HHH1/2 Full-coloured, with someMarlborough Pinot Block 10 Twin Hills blend of Awatere Valley Sturdy and youthful funky notes and strong,Noir 2013 HHHH Marlborough Pinot and Southern Valleys Wairau Valley red, with ripe, nutty, slightlyFull-coloured, with deep, Noir 2013 HHHH grapes. Mouthfilling, strong, ripe, slightly savoury and earthyyouthful cherry and Deeply coloured Omaka with strong, ripe cherry nutty flavours. ‘Serious’ flavours. $40 (UK)plum flavours, strongly Valley red, with strong and spice flavours, style, worth cellaring. Ara Select Blocksseasoned with French plum, cherry and spice supple tannins and $25 (UK, US) Marlborough Pinotoak (51 per cent new). flavours. Weighty, savoury, earthy, Nautilus Noir 2013 HHHMouthfilling, rich and youthful and rich, with toasty notes adding Marlborough Pinot Fresh, lively and sweet-soft, but needs time; good complexity and complexity. $51 (UK) Noir 2012 HHH1/2 fruited. Medium-bodied,open 2016+. $44 potential. $38 Villa Maria Single Full-coloured, with some with plummy, cherryish Vineyard Southern earthy notes on the nose flavours, showing aSaint Clair Pioneer Saint Clair Pioneer Clays Marlborough and very good complexity touch of complexity, aBlock 4 Sawcut Block 12 Lone Gum Pinot Noir and flavour depth. Robust gentle oak influence andMarlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot 2012 HHHH and rich. $41 supple tannins. $25 (A,Noir 2013 HHHH Noir 2013 HHHH Full-coloured and Saint Clair Pioneer UK, US)Deep ruby, fragrant, Fresh, medium-bodied smooth, with strong Block 14 Doctor’s Babich Marlboroughvibrantly fruity and style from the lower plum and spice flavours. Creek Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 HHHsupple red from the Omaka Valley, with Fragrant, with a soft, Pinot Noir Ruby hued, full-bodiedUre Valley, midway strong, ripe cherry, silky texture and long 2013 HHH1/2 red, with fresh,between Blenheim and plum and spice finish. “Very pretty,” Elegant, with vibrant, moderately concentratedKaikoura. Ripe cherry flavours, showing enthused one judge. $57 ripe cherry and plum cherry and plum flavoursand plum flavours, with good complexity, and flavours, showing very in a fruit-driven stylefinely integrated oak, in fine-grained tannins. good depth. Slightly with drink-young appeal.a powerful but elegant “Caresses the palate,” dominant oak at this $22 (A, UK, US)style, focused and enthused one judge. $38 stage (10 months in Babich Winemakers’tightly structured. $38 French barriques, 31 Reserve per cent new), but good Marlborough Pinot star ratings  tannin backbone. Worth Noir 2013 HHH cellaring. $38 Deep ruby, with cherry,Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Tohu Marlborough plum and slight herbexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Single Vineyard flavours, showing goodAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Pinot Noir depth and some earthyprofessionals and are compared in peer 2013 HHH1/2 complexity. $35 (A, UK)classes by three judges. Ruby hued, vibrantly Coopers CreekCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, fruity Awatere Valley Marlborough Pinota major mail-order business. red, with ripe plum/ Noir 2013 HHHCD Cellar door price. spice flavours, fresh and Enjoyable drink-youngCDO Cellar door only. strong, and some barrel- style from the BrancottSO Sold out. aged complexity. Drink Valley, with satisfying$N/A Price not available at time of printing. now or cellar. $28 (UK) depth of vibrant plum, Tohu Rore Reserve spice and slight herb Contact information pg 136. Marlborough Pinot flavours, and a hint of Noir 2013 HHH1/2 sweet oak. $21 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Youthful Awatere Valley Dashwood red, deep ruby, with Marlborough Pinot mouthfilling body and Noir 2013 HHH fresh, strong cherry and Fruity, supple, ruby hued plum flavours. Worth red, with vibrant berry, cellaring. $39 (UK) plum and spice flavours, a touch of complexity and drink-young appeal. $20 (A, UK, US)100 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2015