Winestate Magazine March April 2014

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts Elderton Command Shiraz, Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz, Moss Wood Cabernet, LANGTON’S WINE ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Noon Reserve cabernets and shiraz, AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (EARLY JANUARY PREMIUM AUCTION Rockford Basket Press Shiraz and Wynns Weekly internet auctions - all held REPORT, by GRAHAM WRIGHT) John Riddoch. Within this group, buyers centrally are tending towards vintages from the February 25-March 4 It was always the accepted wisdom in 1990s and early 2000s. March 4-11 the retail wine trade that January was a March 11-18 dead month - nothing much happened, One of the great drinking Grange’s, March 18-25 clients were away on holiday and only according to Penfolds Peter Gago, 1955 March 25-April 1 cheap wine and beer was scoffed. Penfolds Bin 95 headed up Oddbins’ Top April 1-8 Wrong! January for the auction market is 10 Hammer Price List for Australia Wine. April 8-15 now a very busy time. Buyers are looking The winning bid for this particular bottle April 15-22 to restock their cellars, depleted through (VHS, in excellent condition for age) was April 22-29 the festive season, while vendors have $2600. There were plenty of new and old Visit www.langtons.com.au for found just the right amount of time and Grange rounding out the Top 10, but it information about special themed energy to have a poke around their cellars was excellent to see the presence of an auctions. and pull out a few items that either need established superstar back in the table - to be moved on or more pertinently, need with a 2008 Henschke Hill of Grace Eden STERLING WINE AUCTIONS to be sold to pay off the over-abused Valley Shiraz (screw cap, original timber Auctions run every two weeks, back-to- credit card. case) fetching $450. Also making the Top back, finishing on Wednesday evening. 10 was one of the so called “cult wines” I’m pleased to report that stock levels - 2005 Torbreck The Laird Barossa Valley ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS and clearances were both up for Oddbins’ Shiraz - with a hammer price of $450. March 18 (closes February 21) very early, January 7, Premium Sale. April 15 (closes March 21) As with December’s auction, Penfolds Oddbins’Top 10 Non-Penfolds/Henschke May 20 (closes April 25) Grange was definitely on the rebound. Hammer Price List for this January sale Consumers and collectors alike also included some classic auction performers GRAYSONLINE returned to the premium wines of (Rockford, d’Arenberg, Greenock Creek) Daily wine auctions, starting from CA Henschke & Co, in particular Hill - all of them shiraz offerings. Achieving $9 per case, with a 30-day money of Grace, Mount Edelstone and Cyril $210, a 1999 Clarendon Hills Astralis back guarantee. Fine wine auctions Henschke. I’ve also noticed a trend Shiraz (minor cellar scuffed label) took end Monday-Wednesday-Thursday back to long-term auction favourites like out the top spot. each week. Port and spirit auctions end on Tuesdays. The Imported section at the January sale boasted a stellar line-up, with CRACKA WINES classic Bordeaux and top-flight red and Live wine auctions every day at 8pm. white Burgundy. A 2001 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Grand Cru Richebourg (All dates are subject to change, took the number one position on the without notice) Top 10 Hammer Prices List for Imported Wine, with a winning bid of $1200,76 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014 followed in second place by a 2006 Domaine Romanee Conti Richebourg at $10 0 0. This Top 10 featured t wo well-aged offerings from the Prince of Shiraz, Jean Louis Chave. A magnum of 1985 Domaine Jean Louis Chave Hermitage (level 3cm below bottom of capsule, cellar scuffed label and capsule) fetched $549, while a bottle of the 1989 Hermitage (cellar nicked capsule) fetched $355. A 1996 bottle of Moet & Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon Champagne (minor cellar scuffed capsule) fetched $203. The third Top 10 Hammer Prices List covered Fortified Wine and Spirits, and top spot went to the winning bid of $370 on a bottle of Remy Martin 250th

42 DEGREES SOUTH A. RETIEF A.T. 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wine investment & collectingAnniversary (1724-1974) Cognac Grande not intriguing results when it came to GRAYSONLINEFine Champagne (original timber case, spirits and fortifieds. First, a very old (FEBRUARY REPORT,with certificate, missing medallion, level bottling of Madeira from one of the great by GREG FITZSIMMONS)5cm below bottom of capsule, cracked producers, a Barbeito Crown Madeirawine capsule). A bottle of Johnnie Sweet (imported by RW Clampett SA), Summer is truly here and we all survivedWalker Blue Label King George V Edition attracted keen bidding and finally went the heat that punctuated the holidayBlended Whiskey (boxed) placed second 33 per cent above the top end. Second, season. Sales for the last two months ofwith a winning bid of $340, followed by there was a surprising result for a bottle 2013 heated up as we dealt with a massivea bottle of 1950 Stonyfell Vintage Port of Angoves St Agnes 7 Star XO Very liquidation of “Blustar Beverages”. This,fetching $130. In one of the more unusual Old Brandy (boxed) which went 20 per combined with the private cellar sales,offerings, an official Krug ‘In the Open cent above the price guides. While this resulted in through-put close to theAir’ picnic rug, cooler and three glass Australian brand and style is generally magical three million mark.picnic set (never used, missing one glass, scoffed at, let me assure you this brandynot including champagne) attracted a final is quite superb and is a fast disappearing In November we conducted our largesthammer price of $120. style. Well-aged and ancient Australian single sale to date, with many of the fortifieds, including the supreme Morris wines sourced from the best and most Moving on to the Top 10 Auction of Rutherglen Old Premium Liqueur respected wine collectors in Australia.Performers Lists (showing percentages Muscat (canister) plus a new and old The sale also included the best ofabove the top end of guides), the Top 10 Johnnie Walker, made up an impressive France from the chateaus of Bordeaux,Australian Performers table was headed list that our buyers were quite keen to including a rare magnum of 1990 Chateauquite surprisingly by the notable sale of keep within the published guides. Lafite-Rothschild which attracted aa flagship 1877 McWilliams McLaren fierce bidding war and a final sale priceVale Coonawarra Hilltops Shiraz Cabernet While I’ve already mentioned the exceeding $2500. Alongside this wasSauvignon (cellar stained labels, screw renewed interest in Penfolds Grange, a 1989 Chateau Margaux, with a pricecap). Bidders put up a keen contest and buyers were also keen on Bins 389 from exceeding $700, a 1986 Chateau Latourit eventually went for 30 per cent above the 2000s, 707 - especially from 1996 which went for $770, a 1982 Chateauthe top end of the price guides. There and early 2000s - and the very special Bin Haut Brion for $585 - a true bargain, awas also some very strong bidding on 90A. Finally, congratulations to the buyer 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild forthe equally impressive 2005 Moss Wood of the Penfolds Bin 414 Sauternes. Such $1344 and a 1995 which sold for $677.Cabernet Sauvignon (screw cap) which famous and historic wines and very much These were not be outdone by thefetched 29 per cent above the top ends. a reluctant sale on the vendor’s behalf. megastar of Pomerol, the 1985 Petrus which achieved $1280, and a 1995 going The Importeds were mainly kept well For more information visit www. for $2034. In addition to these gemswithin the published price guides, oddbins.com.au (all prices quoted are was a stunning range of super secondalthough there were two pleasing if exclusive of buyer’s premium). growths from Cos d’Estournel, including Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Oddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps… Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids!78 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014 - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What

wine investment & collectinga Chateau Leoville, a Pichon Longueville In January we had a series of smaller For more information visit www.and La Mission Haut Brion, just a few of auctions in the build-up to the large graysonline.com.au (prices listed don’tthe many from Bordeaux that graysonline auctions for Australia Day. There were include buyer’s premium).had on offer. some great bargains, including the fabulous wines from Chanson of CRACKA WINES From Burgundy we had the world’s Burgundy, with the 2006 Suchots 1er ( J A N U A R Y R E P O R T, b y A N G U Sfinest producer Domaine de la Romanee- Cru Vosne-Romanee selling under $70 a HUGHSON)Conti, with bottles of 2004 La Tache at bottle, alongside the Clos Des Mouches$1689, 2006 Romanee-St-Vivant at $1065 1er Cru Beaune Blanc which went The final auctions of 2013 and thoseand 2004 Richebourg at $950. Attracting for under $60. Other great drinking early in 2014 saw the expected seasonalvery strong demand were Grand Cru’s value wines included solid volumes rise in volumes and prices, especiallyand Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de of rieslings from Grosset, such as among premium products. 2008 Grangela Roche and, in the champagne stakes, Springvale Watervale, Polish Hill, Off-Dry hit a peak of $600 as did the 2004the finest of Dom Perignon, Moet & Riesling, plus an assortment from Leo Penfolds Bin 60A - a relative bargain forChandon and Taittinger Comtes de Buring, Pewsey Vale and Trimbach, all of this Australian classic. Henschke pricesChampagne Blanc de Blancs and Krug. which went out for under $30. Add to that were also strong, with $600 achieved an assortment of bubbles from Billecart, for the 2002 Hill of Grace. Other wines From Australia there was a plethora of Dom Perignon and Veuve Clicquot, and with significant bottle age also reachedGrange, in total over $65,000 worth, many the summer parties were well fuelled. historically high prices - 2000 d’Arenbergof which were sold in the original wooden Dead Arm Shiraz sold for $85, while thecases for strong results, starting with Graysonline continues to be a significant 2003 went for $80, results sure to havethe 1991 and 1996 for $2770, followed supply source and purveyor to the wine pleased the vendor.by a case of 1990 exceeding $3000, community, with consistent bargainsand finishing with a set of 1993-2004 and wonderful mature wines, along with A cellar of mid-range vintage wines atmagnums which sold for a bargain price the finest single malts and rums. With the peak of their drinking window alsoof $8980. In addition, we offered a range 2014 now hitting its stride, we and our achieved admirable pricing. Collectors ofof single bottles, including the 100-point customers will be looking for birth years and Charles Cimicky wines in particular will1976 vintage, which sold in excess of celebration wines - so contact graysonline be heartened to hear that aged examples$880. This Penfolds smorgasboard was if you have anything from the vintages of are appreciated by bidders in the Crackasupplemented by a few other Australian 1964, 1974, 1984 and 1993, the much sort auctions, with various vintages of theicons such as 1990 Chris Ringland Three after 21st birthday vintage. All will be in Reserve Shiraz, The Autograph ShirazRivers which sold for over $700 and strong demand as 2014 slips by, punctuated and Saint C Cabernet Shiraz all achievingGreenock Creek Roennfeldt Road Shiraz, by some wonderful occasions and the strong prices. The 2005 Reserve Shirazthe 1996 of which sold for $474 and the wines that make them memorable. was the most popular, regularly reaching1998 for $585. $21, while the 2005 The Autograph March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 79

wine investment & collectingShiraz and Saint C fetched closer to $17. the premium Oatley offerings. That said, further highlighted by the remarkableBinder Mitchell Gunslinger Shiraz from industry stalwarts Rockford Basket Press sale of an imperial of 2005 Chateau2009 was also popular and sold in large Shiraz and Penfolds Bin 707 showed Mouton-Rothschild, achieving $14,950.volumes with a hammer price between excellent prices across a whole gamut Sauternes also performed well leading$11 and $15. of vintages. The market for these wines up to Christmas, with a bottle of 2001 shows no signs of abating, with prices Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes attaining Bargains galore were also to be found and volumes continually on the rise - $1035 and a bottle of 1988 Chateauat the lower price point. Grant Burge magnums of 1995 sold quickly for $240 d’Yquem achieving $793.2012 Hayburner Shiraz was scored by and 2002 in 750ml format sold for $160.a lucky customer for $9.50, a delicious Several bottles of Domaine de laaged Adelaide Hills semillon from Chain Cracka Wines conducts live wine Romanee-Conti (DRC) traded hands in theof Ponds also sold at $9.50. A range of auctions every day. For more information, fourth-quarter, including a bottle of 1980wines from Robe and Karatta Wines visit www.crackawines.com.au or email DRC Romanee-Conti achieving $5750 andwere a steal with RRP $19 shiraz [email protected] (all quoted a bottle of 1990 DRC Richebourg attainingregularly sold under $10. Our suite of prices are per bottle with no buyer’s $3715. White Burgundy also performedever popular Marlborough wines from premium applicable). well evidenced by a bottle of 2007 J.FMaven and Daisy Rock also remained a Coche-Dury Meursault achieving $517popular summer drink among many of LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS and a bottle of Domaine Etienne Sauzetour customers. (FOURTH QUARTER 2013 Montrachet 2007 realising $644. MARKET REPORT, by ANDREA PRITZKER) Away from our auctions, pinot noir sales Champagne sales sparkled in thein particular grew at a staggering rate. Langton’s fourth-quarter was a frenetic lead up to Christmas, led by a rareOver 400 cases of the elegant wines time, with a number of specialised bottle of 1962 Moet & Chandon Domfrom Wycroft in New Zealand sold in a themed auctions and single vendor sales Perignon Oenotheque Brut Champagnematter of hours - one of our strongest held alongside the regular schedule of achieving $1613. A bottle of 1976 Moet &offers of the year. Our invitation-only weekly centralised auctions leading up Chandon Dom Perignon Oenotheque Brutwine club “My Wine Companion” also to Christmas. The overall patterns of the Champagne was also eagerly sought aftershowed a significant growth late in 2013 past year continued, including increased attaining $1270.and early in 2014. During Christmas sales demand for blue chip Bordeaux andthe market showed strong interest both Burgundy, and steady demand for old and Sales of Penfolds Grange were solidin current release and vintage wines. rare Australian wines. throughout the fourth-quarter. TheRobert Oatley’s 96 Point Finisterre Penfolds exclusive sale held in lateMargaret River Cabernet Sauvignon was Sales of top growth Bordeaux were November drew strong demand for a trioa star, out-performing many more fancied strong, confirmed by a bottle of 2009 of rare 1950s era Grange. The trio includednames showing the growing strength of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild realising $2070. a bottle of 1955 Bin 14 Grange attaining The insatiable appetite for Bordeaux was $2539, a bottle of 1955 Bin 95 GrangeWINNER OF THE CANSTAR BLUEMOST SATISFIED CUSTOMERS AWARDFOR ONLINE LIQUOR STORESQuality wines at wholesale prices with all auctionssbtaacrktignugafrraonmtejeusatn$d9sppeeredcyasdee.liWveitrhy,aw3h0adt’asynmototnoeylove about wine at GraysOnline?cVuissittowmwewrs.garraeygsoivninligneu.scofimve and find out why our stars!80 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

realising $4370 and a very rare 1953 Bin ONE COMPANY | ONE FOCUS10 Grange achieving $12,650. Interest in WWW.AMORIMCORK.COM.AUmature Grange from the 1960s and ’70swas also underscored by the sale of a1962 Bin 95 Grange for $2048 and a bottleof 1971 Grange achieving $1151.Demand for Australian blue chip fine winewas also strong during the fourth-quarter.A sale featuring the wines of ClassificationV was particularly popular evidenced byan imperial of 1986 Wynns John RiddochCabernet Sauvignon achieving $1612.Other highlights of the quarter includeda bottle of 2001 Chris Ringland Shiraz Improve your fortune in China with corkachieving $1022 and the latest winnerof the Jimmy Watson Trophy - the 2012Yabby Lake Vineyard Single Block Release1 Pinot Noir achieving $217 - proving theaward is still highly regarded among theAustralian wine buying public. As Christmas drew near, a specialthemed sale featuring spirits and fortifiedwines was held with several remarkablehighlights. A rare bottle of Seppelt 100Year Old Para Tawny port from 1907 wentunder the hammer selling for $2116, Natural cork motivateswhile two bottles of Scotch Whisky 73% of Chinese redalso drew strong bidding, with a bottle wine drinkers’of Johnnie Walker Excelsior Limited purchase decisions.*Release Scotch Whisky achieving $964 Amorim is the worldand a Talisker 25-year-old Single MaltWhisky realising $370. Langton’s experienced a year ofmomentous change in 2013. Our two leader in cork. Theregional warehouses were consolidated choice is clear.into one large warehouse operating outof Hopper’s Crossing in Melbourne.This move was not without significantchallenges, however it will set Langton’sBe a smart Use cork!up for the future, ensuring stock fromacross the country can be efficientlycollected, expertly catalogued and rapidlycookieoffered for auction, ultimately providing a 天然纯正的软木塞激发了73%中国红葡 萄酒饮用者的购买欲望。 而阿莫林集团是制造软木塞的世界领导 者，因此选择是显而易见的。better service for our buyers and sellers. *UNDERSTANDING CHINESE CONSUMERS’ RED WINE PREFERENCES; At the time of writing, 2014 also AUSTRALIAN WINE RESEARCH INSTITUTE. 2008promises to be a momentous year.Our new website will soon be online,providing a more user-friendly way to bid,buy or sell wine, from your desktop, tabletor mobile phone. In addition, a series ofgreat wine events and master-classes isplanned for the major Australian cities andthe newly revised Classification VI will beunveiled in Adelaide in early May.For all the latest wine news, events andauction results visit www.langtons.com.au. All prices include buyer’s premium.- March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 81

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 1998 $260 2005 $65 1982 $220  MOSS WOOD 1967 $600  Stonewell Shiraz WINES 1999 $260 2006 $65 1983 $220  Cab Sauv 1968 $550  1990 $90 2000 $270 2007 $55 1984 $210 1969 $550 1991 $70 BASS PHILLIP 2001 $290 2008 $55 1985 $280  1990 $130 1970 $400  1992 $60Premium Pinot Noir 2002 $300  1986 $320  1991 $150 1971 $720  1993 $65 2003 $200 1987 $220 1992 $120 1972 $400  1994 $55 1990 $75 2004 $350 GIACONDA 1988 $300 1993 $100 1973 $400  1995 $55 1991 $90 2005 $230  Chardonnay 1989 $260 1994 $100 1974 $420  1996 $70 1992 $95 2006 $250 1990 $110 1990 $460 1995 $130  1975 $400 1997 $55 1993 $80 2007 Not Released 1991 $60 1991 $400 1996 $120  1976 $580 1998 $80 1994 $110 2008 Not Released 1992 $85 1992 $250 1997 $100 1977 $400 1999 $75 1995 $80 2009 Not Released 1993 $90 1993 $260 1998 $150 1978 $400 2000 $70 1996 $110 2010 $200 1994 $100 1994 $340 1999 $130 1979 $380 2001 $65 1997 $140 2011 Not Released 1995 $85 1995 $300 2000 $110 1980 $360 2002 $70 1998 $140  2012 $210 1996 $140  1996 $460 2001 $120 1981 $400 2003 $55 1999 $120  1997 $95  1997 $320 2002 $85 1982 $370 2004 $85 2000 $120  1998 $125 1998 $420 2003 $85 1983 $440 2005 $60 2001 $160  CLONAKILLA 1999 $120  1999 $380 2004 $80 1984 $350 2006 $60 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2000 $110 2001 $360 2005 $90 1985 $380 2007 $55  2003 $110 1990 $65 2001 $110 2002 $440 2006 $65 1986 $520 2008 $60 2004 $140  1993 $65 2002 $160  2004 $380 2007 $80  1987 $350 2005 $80 1994 $85 2004 $190 2005 $370 2008 $90  1988 $350 Basket Press 2007 $130  1995 $65 2005 $120 2006 $340 2009 $85 1989 $360 Shiraz 2008 $80 1996 $100 2006 $120 2010 Not Released 1990 $540 2009 $85 1997 $130 2007 $100 Armagh Shiraz 2011 $90 1991 $460 1990 $150 2010 Not Released 1998 $150 2008 $140 1990 $200 1992 $360 1991 $140 2011 $100 1999 $55 2009 Not Released 1991 $180 MOUNT MARY 1993 $360 1992 $95 2000 $90 2010 $130 1992 $120 Quintet 1994 $380 1993 $75 BINDI 2001 $130 1993 $110 1995 $370 1994 $90 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2002 $130 Meshach 1994 $130 1990 $150  1996 $500 1995 $65 1997 $80  2003 $100 1990 $75 1995 $130 1991 $120  1997 $360 1996 $160  1998 $95 2004 $100 1991 $85 1996 $180 1992 $110  1998 $580 1997 $95 1999 Not Released 2005 $110 1992 $80 1997 $150 1993 $85  1999 $400 1998 $190 2000 $150 2006 $100 1993 $70 1998 $230 1994 $95  2000 $420 1999 $95 2001 $120 2007 $150 1994 $90 1999 $120  1995 $100 2001 $370 2000 $80 2002 $110 2008 $90 1995 $65 2000 $120 1996 $120 2002 $450 2001 $85 2003 $85 2009 $95 1996 $85 2001 $140 1997 $100  2003 $400 2002 $110 2004 $110 2010 $95 1997 Not Released 2002 $180  1998 $160 2004 $460 2003 $100 2005 $140  1998 $110 2004 $140 1999 $130  2005 $420 2004 $95 2006 $90 Cabernet Merlot 1999 $85 2005 $120 2000 $120 2006 $500 2005 $95 2007 $110 1999 $95 2000 $70 2006 $160 2001 $110 2007 $420 2006 $95 2008 $110 2000 $65  2001 $110 2007 $95 2002 $120  2007 $80 2009 $90 2001 $120  2002 $95 2003 $110  Bin 707 2008 $95 2010 $95 2002 $90 2003 $55 Chardonnay 2004 $110 1990 $220 2009 $75 2011 $85  2003 $90  2004 $70 Art Series 2005 $120  1991 $220 2010 $75 2004 $90 2005 $65 2006 $100  1992 $180  BROKENWOOD 2005 $85 2006 $65 1990 $60 2007 $70 1993 $180 THREE RIVERS/ Graveyard Shiraz 2006 $70 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $60 2008 $95 1994 $180  Chris Ringland 1990 $90 2007 $85 1992 $70 2009 Not Released 1995 Not Released Wines Shiraz 1991 $95 2008 $90 Roennfeldt Rd 1993 $65 2010 $85 1996 $220 1990 $520 1992 Not Released 2009 $90 Shiraz 1994 $85 1997 $190 1991 $690  1993 $80  2010 $80 1995 $100 Bin 95 Grange 1998 $260  1992 $600  1994 $80 1995 $280 1996 $65 1951 $45,000 1999 $200 1993 $700  1995 $70 ELDERTON 1996 $260 1997 $90 1952 $17,000 2000 Not Released 1994 $650 1996 $95 Command Shiraz 1997 $160 1998 $70 1953 $14,000 2001 $190 1995 $450 1997 $85  1990 $120 1998 $350 1999 $75 1954 $10,000 2002 $180 1996 $830  1998 $110 1991 Not Released 1999 $180 2000 $75 1955 $3,200 2003 Not Released 1997 Not Released 1999 $90 1992 $100 2000 $220 2001 $80 1956 $13,000 2004 $200 1998 $850 2000 $100 1993 $65 2001 $240 2002 $75 1957 $12,000 2005 $200 1999 $600 2001 $80 1994 $80  2002 $300  2003 $80 1958 $4,100 2006 $180 2000 $450 2002 $75 1995 $75 2003 $200 2004 $90 1959 $2,000 2007 $160 2001 $800  2003 $80 1996 $95 2004 $210 2005 $75 1960 $1,500 2008 $190 2002 $800 2004 $80 1997 $70  2005 $230  2006 $70 1961 $1,600 2009 $180 2003 $500 2005 $85 1998 $95  2006 $260 2007 $85 1962 $1,600 2006 $100 1999 $60 2008 $70 1963 $1,000 Bin 60A 2007 $90 2000 $65 Hill of Grace 2009 $75 1964 $1,100 1962 $4,000 2001 $65 1980 $250 1965 $550 2004 $460CLARENDON HILLS 2002 $80 1981 $230 1966 $600  2006 $400 Astralis Shiraz 2003 $65  2004 $70 1994 $200 1995 $200 1996 $300 1997 $20082 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2000 $180 1997 $1,000 2002 $200 1998 $3,600 2003 $190 1999 $1,250 SINGLE VINEYARD - ESTATE WINES Shiraz 2000 $6,000  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $145 Louis Roederer 2001 $2,300 Hermitage BAROSSA VALLEY1991 $130 Cristal 2002 $2,0001992 $80 2003 Not Released 1990 $8001993 $90 1990 $550 2004 $2,000 1991 $4801994 $120 1993 $220 2005 $5,700  1992 $2701995 $95 1994 $340 2006 $2,100 1993 $2401996 $160 1995 $300 2007 $1,400 1994 $3001997 $90 1996 $440 1995 $5001998 $150 1997 $260  1996 $2601999 $85 1999 $340 1997 $3202000 $70  2000 $340 Chateau 1998 $700 2001 $100  2002 $300  d’Yquem Sauternes 1999 $6602002 $150  Chateau Mouton 2000 $420 2003 $95 1990 $795 2001 $520 2004 $120  Rothschild 1991 $450 2002 $4502005 $130 1990 $600  1993 $340 2003 $8502006 $130 1991 $280 1994 $360 2004 $4502008 $100 1992 $230 1995 $550 2005 $6002009 $130 1993 $360 1996 $5402010 $120 1994 $340 1997 $490 1995 $520 1998 $400 1996 $610 1999 $520 Gaja Barbaresco 1997 $280 2000 $600 1990 $330 1998 $420 2001 $900 1991 Not Released 1999 $600 2002 $500 1992 Not Released 2000 $1,150 2003 $600 1993 $210 2001 $450 2004 $500 1994 $260  2002 $480 2005 $700 1995 $210  2003 $600 1996 $300 2004 $550  1997 $550  Para Liqueur 2005 $900  Domaine 1998 $3001878 $2,000 2006 $800  de la Romanee 1999 $260 1879 $1,400  2007 $600 Conti La Tache 2000 $3101880 $1,000  2008 Not Released 1990 $7,400  2001 $2501881 $1,000  2009 $2,000 1991 $1,900 2002 Not Released1882 $1,000 Chateau Latour 1992 $1,250 2003 Not Released1887 $1,000  1990 $1,250 1993 $1,800 2004 $3101893 $1,000 1991 $600 1994 $1,200  2005 $3501899 $1,000 1992 $350  1995 $2,500 1901 $650 1993 $440  1996 $2,7001908 $550 1994 $460  1997 $1,900  Tenuta1910 $500 1995 $750  1998 $2,200  Dell’Ornellaia1922 $350 1996 $1,100 1999 $5,0001925 $600 1997 $460  2000 $1,500  Ornellaia1927 $280 1998 $520 2001 $2,000  1991 $3201930 $120 1999 $600 2002 $2,800 1992 $1051933 $110 2000 $1,800 2003 $2,800 1993 $125 1939 $80 2001 $700 2004 $2,000 1994 $1301944 $70 2002 $650  2005 $4,500 1995 $1301947 $55 2003 $1,400  2006 $1,700 1996 $180 2004 $600 2007 $1,200 1997 $250  IMPORTED 2005 $1,300 2008 $2,400 1998 $185  WINES 2006 $800 2009 $5,100 1999 $200  2007 $700  2000 $140 2008 $1,100 2001 $260  2002 $280  Chateau Petrus Domaine Armand 2003 Not Released 1990 $5,500  Rousseau 2004 $150 1991 Not Released 2005 Not Released 1992 $1,300 Chambertin 2006 $170 1993 $1,000 Clos de Beze 1994 $1,800 1990 $950 1995 $1,900 1991 $200Moet et Chandon 1996 $1,400 1992 $220  Vega Sicilia Unico For the love of the art Cuvee Dom 1993 $600  Gran Reserva Perignon 1994 $500 Angelo De Fazio 1995 $560  1990 $560 p: +61 (0)419 819 4141980 $220 1996 $650 1991 $4201982 $230  1997 $280  1994 $550 f: +61 8 8331 11471983 $180 1998 $400  1995 $420  e: [email protected] $200  1999 $800  1996 $3601988 $260 2000 $320 1998 $420 www.zitta.com.au1990 $380  2001 $420 1999 $4201992 $240 2002 $680 2000 $3601993 $220 2003 $600 2002 $4201995 $220 2003 $3501996 $2801998 $260  2004 $4001999 $190  2005 $950 2006 $600 2007 $500 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 83

79 TASTED43 AWARDEDROSÉThis is a “pink” style of table wine that everyone agrees is the Stone Bridge Winesright wine for summer lunches and barbecues but when the time The Gardener Clarecomes few partake. We were pleasantly surprised at the high Valley Grenachequality of the best wines that were ‘bespoke’ wines rather than Rosé 2013 HHHH1/2an afterthought and also the number of wines that are worthy of “Bright, fresh and vibrant,” declared one judge. An array of ripe, red fruit aromas and flavours balanced by lean acidity, with a subtle hint of phenolic tartness to finish. $18ROSÉ Rosalina Portugal Hentley FarmUNDER $15 Rosé HHH Barossa Valley Perfumed aromas Grenache Rosé 201223 TASTED of dried flowers and HHHH1/2 nectarine, with a hint of A “food friendly” wine,10 AWARDED spritz on the sweet and with cherry and florals generous palate. $5.69 on the nose leading into“Fairly hard work,” said a palate full of red fruitone judge. “Too many Scarpantoni Estate Condo Wines flavours. The sweetnesshad artefact characters, McLaren Vale Swan Reach Rosé is balanced by leanrather than fruit flavours. Gamay Rosé 2013 HHH acidity and a slightThere were a multitude 2013 HHH A medium-sweet style tartness which deliver aof styles looking for Bright rose pink with cherries on the long finish. $19balance.” However, colour, with flavours nose and a slightlythere were some good and aromas of sweet phenolic touch. $6 Zontes Footstepquaffers offering easy and sour cherry on a Scarlet Ladybirdcommercial drinking. generous palate. $13 Langhorne Creek Rosé 2012 HHHH1/2Jacob’s Creek Cool Peter Lehmann Monkey Bay East ROSÉ Interesting aromasHarvest Australia Art ‘n’ Soul Coast New Zealand $15 - $20 of rich, red fruits andShiraz Rosé 2012 Australia Rosé Rosé 2012 HHH toffee apple suggestingHHHH 2013 HHH1/2 Strawberry and brioche 27 TASTED subtle oak treatment.Delicate and pretty Lifted strawberry and aromas lead into a “lean, 14 AWARDED A medium-sweetaromas of red and red fruits, with a good clean” palate, with palate of good weight,tropical fruits, with a balance of sweetness balanced acidity and A big jump in quality, texture and length, withtouch of cut grass, and acidity. Described good length. $13.20 said the judges. “An confected red fruits anddescribed as “seamless by one judge as “bright, McPherson Family excellent 2013 vintage balanced acidity. $18and complex,” by one clean and fresh.” $14 Lucie’s Promise for the style bodes welljudge. The full-flavoured Marques de Australia Rosé for the future, and some Cirami Estate Southand sweetish palate is Caceres Rioja Rosé 2013 HHH nice 2012s holding their Australia Rosé 2013fresh and lively, with a 2012 HHH Notes of cherry blossom fruit and colour.” “A HHHHlong, dry finish. $14.99 Fresh strawberries and and tropical fruit with a pleasant surprise for a Vibrant and perfumed raspberries on to a lively, palate that has “punch couple of extra dollars,” aromas of cherry andLa Planchelliere clean and soft palate. and lift.” $10.99 said one judge. strawberry with livelyFrance Cabernet “Pretty, light and lithe,” Beringer California red fruits. “Good, cleanRosé 2012 HHH1/2 said one judge. $14 White Zinfandel and balanced,” said oneAromas of floral and 2010 HHH judge. $15quince with some herbal “Dusty” florals with anotes. Initial sweetness hint of toffee on the Skuttlebuttis balanced by flavour nose. A sweeter style Margaret River Roséand acidity on the “light with strawberry and 2013 HHHHand pretty” palate. $9.49 cherry flavours. $6.90 A fresh and slightly confected nose, with a spicy, almost gamey undertone. “Not a simple wine,” declared one judge. $1884 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

varietal tasting Atze’s Corner Barossa Valley Rosé 2013 HHH Soft style with raspberries and strawberries. Summed up by one judge as “gluggable, pretty and delicate”. $19 Penley Estate Over the Moon Coonawarra Rosé 2013 HHH Floral, peach and orange citrus aromas lead into a fairly sweet palate, with a long, dry finish. $15Ceravolo Adelaide McLeish EstatePlains Sangiovese Dwyer Hunter ValleyRosé 2013 HHHH Rosé 2012 HHHA “nice harmony” of Fresh red fruit and someperfumed, tropical and citrus aromas on a clean,plummy fruit. Easy well-balanced palate. $18drinking, with a long, Four Bucketsbalanced finish. $15.25 Clare Valley RoséTidswell Wines 2013 HHHHeathfield Ridge Rich, ripe blackcurrantLimestone Coast and raspberry reflectedCabernet Rosé on a bright, lean and long2013 HHHH palate – dryer style. $15Bright spectrum of redfruits with floral andherbaceous notes. Amedium-sweet example,with good balance,length and a clean, dryfinish. $19Tenafeate CreekOne Tree Hill Rosé2013 HHH1/2A sweeter style, withslightly confected redcherry and cranberry onthe nose. Clean withgood length. $18Pepperwood Estate Brygon ReservePutting on the Ritz Lovely LegsCapel Western Western AustraliaAustralia Rosé Rosé 2012 HHH2013 HHH1/2 Fresh peach and orangeA vibrant nose of cherry peel with some herbaland red fruits with an notes. A sweet andherbal edge. Sweetish savoury style with goodred cherry and cranberry length. $17.99flavours with a firm, dryfinish. $16 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 85

ROSÉROSÉ Centennial Knee Deep Sileni Cellar Nepenthe$20 - $25 Vineyards Orange Margaret River Rosé Selection Hawke’s Winemaker’s Rosé 2013 HHH1/2 2013 HHH Bay Cabernet Franc Selection Adelaide27 TASTED Lovely aromas of A bright, fresh and lively Rose 2013 HHH Hills Zinfandel Rosé17 AWARDED rhubarb and red currant. example, with aromas and Bright red fruit aromas 2013 HHHHH Clean, soft and well- flavours of strawberry and with a hint of cut grass. Vibrant ruby pink inA group of well-worked balanced, with a slightly lychee. $22 Good fruit flavours on a colour, with an intriguingrosés where winemakers “creamy” texture. $20 Geoff Merrill Bush long, textural but crisp nose of strawberries,have tried to squeeze Alta Adelaide Hills Vine McLaren Vale palate. $20 NZ dark cherries andthe last drop of character Rosé 2013 HHH1/2 Grenache Rosé rhubarb and a gameyout of the wine. The best A “brooding and stylish” 2013 HHH Reschke Merlot undertone. Loadshad freshness of fruit, wine, which has some Lifted red cherry 2013 HHH of red fruit flavours,vibrant colours and a bit bright and pretty red aromas and flavours, Perfumed cherry with a touch of spicemore complexity. fruit on the nose, with a with a lively, clean and blossom nose with on the generous and hint of minerality on the long finish. $21 strawberry, red currant textural palate. A drierHedonist Wines palate. $20 Wheels Pokolbin and hint of toffee. “Not style which one judgeMcLaren Vale The Grapes of Rosé 2013 HHH a bad drink,” said one described as “thoughtSangiovese Rosé Ross Ruby Tuesday Aromas of red cordial judge. $23 provoking”. $252013 HHHH Barossa Valley Rosé and quince, with an Wirral GrangeSalmon pink/orange 2013 HHH1/2 herbal edge to a textured ROSÉ Hunter Valley Roséin colour – a complex Raspberry and musk and “slatey” palate, with OVER $25 2013 HHHwine with aromas of red with a gamey undertone a long finish. $24 The dark red/ruby colourcurrant and orange peel on the nose. A fruit- Chant du Midi France 2 TASTED signals dark red fruitwhich follow through forward, slightly Rosé 2012 HHH 2 AWARDED aromas and “lush”on the long, elegant and confected and sweetish An intriguing nose of flavours. A wine withtextured palate. “Lovely palate with bright fruit delicate strawberry with One classic style; with depth of flavour, goodflavours,” commented flavours. $20 a touch of gamey lees. great spiciness, oak texture and a dry, citrus-one judge. $20 Hahndorf Hill Bright red fruit flavours, and balance. Great like finish. $25 Adelaide Hills Rosé with a soft, creamy to see winemakersSandalford 2013 HHH palate. $22.99 making “designated”Margaret River Rosé A “pretty” wine with Golding The Eastend rosés, rather than just2013 HHHH aromas of confected Adelaide Hills Rosé afterthoughts.Attractive aromas of red fruits and a touch 2012 HHHplum, fresh red fruits of sweetness, with a A complex wine, with STAR RATINGS and orange peel. Sweet lively, fresh and zesty harmonious red fruitcranberry with red fruit palate. $23 and tropical aromas and Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs offlavours and lively acidity Domaine Roghe flavours. “Lovely flavour excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.on a long, clean and Crois Australia balance,” concluded one All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industrywell-balanced palate. Pinot Noir Rosé judge. $20 professionals and are compared in peerGood food wine. $20 2013 HHH K1 by Geoff Hardy classes by three judges. Ripe strawberry and Rosé 2013 HHH CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,Swings & raspberry notes echoed Lifted raspberry and a major mail-order business.Roundabouts on a slightly savoury and cherry aromas which CD Cellar door price.Margaret River Rosé complex palate. $23 are reflected on a CDO Cellar door only.2013 HHHH Milhinch Wines concentrated, fresh and SO Sold out.A delicate nose with Barossa Valley Rosé lively palate. $20 $N/A Price not available at time of printing.pretty florals and red 2013 HHHfruits, echoed on the Notes of floral,  Contact information pg 136.flavoursome and elegant strawberry and quincepalate, which has and a full, flavoursome RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).balanced sweetness and palate of red fruits withlively acidity with a crisp balanced acidity. $20finish. “Good flavours,”said one judge. $20JUDGES Michael Coode Paul Gobell Phil Lehmann Winemaker at the AWRI. Winemaker for Pernod Winemaker for Parker Vintages in Canada and Ricard Australia. Over Wines. Associate judge at Bordeaux. Former wine 20 years’ experience the Barossa wine show. educator at the National in the industry, with Graduate Diploma of Wine Centre. vintages in USA, France Oenology from Adelaide and New Zealand. University. Formerly winemaker at Yalumba Wines, and also with Peter Lehmann and Teusner Wines.86 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

A show of variety & versatility. Make no mistake though, these new wines are definitely crafted for mature tastes. The versatility of ‘PG’ is captured in three distinct styles. The crisp and delicate Classic or the vibrant Futures wines made in the classic Grigio style, or the more textural Hill & Valley Pinot Gris. Whichever you prefer, these wines are delightful on any palate and any pocket.MARTINS_9982A

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIAGAMBLE PAYS OFF HISTORIC QUIRKS ART FOCUSFORMER Domaine Chandon and Mount ONE of Bendigo’s newest accommodation THE Art Series Hotel Group, known forAvoca winemaker John Harris took a options, The Old Store on Barnard, is outstanding Melbourne boutique hotelmajor gamble when he opened an urban an impressive combination of old and properties The Cullen, The Olsen and Thecellar door, wine store and wine bar new, and capable of sleeping up to 10 Blackman, is expanding over the next 12for his fledgling Mitchell Harris label in people, making it perfect for groups months and has unveiled the first Art Seriesdowntown Ballarat. Twelve months on, or large families. Built in the 1870s Studio property that is scheduled to open inthe 120-year-old former produce shop, to service the booming gold town Bendigo in May, to be followed by a secondtent-maker’s store and motor workshop of Sandhurst (later named Bendigo) in Parkville, Melbourne. “Unlike The Olsen,site he chose has become something of it stands just adjacent to a former The Blackman and The Cullen, which inhabita gourmet hotspot, providing a showcase mine, but offers all modern comforts a gallery-like feeling, our studios will boastfor the wines of Western and Central along with historic quirks. Highlights a more eclectic, understated environment,Victoria. A leading wine show judge include the original kitchen mantle and reflecting an artist’s studio - a place forand a 2010 Winemakers’ Federation of stove, an internal skylight and even contemplation, creation and inspired thinkingAustralia future leaders Harris has struck authentic Scottish packing boxes laid for guests,” says managing director Willa chord with his focus on quality local as flooring many years ago. There are Deague. “With massive edgy communalwines, particularly his own sparkling five bedrooms and two living areas, with spaces and rooms filled with original artworkwine, labelled as Sabre. The bar menu a selection of books and board games, and prints, guests will be guaranteed a uniquefeatures dishes like duck and field even a retro stereo system. There are art experience.” Deague confirmed all staff atmushroom parfait with crispbreads, or two large TVs and DVD players. There the Studio properties would be fully trainedpulled pork sliders with onion jam, as is a fully equipped kitchen, but no by Art Series Hotel Group’s art curator andwell as charcuterie plates while there is pressure to cook with several pubs and be able to conduct informative tours of thean excellent selection of regional wines restaurants within walking distance. As hotel artwork while offering the best insightsby the glass. Mitchell Harris Urban Cellar part of the Old Store experience guests to cultural experiences available in eachDoor, 38 Doveton St, Ballarat; phone (03) receive a hamper of local produce location. “Bendigo has transformed itself as5331 8931. www.mitchellharris.com.au. and wine or local breakfast provisions the regional hub of art and culture in Victoria, to enjoy during their stay. The Old so it’s the perfect location,” he says. The 128- Store, 365 Barnard St, Bendigo; phone room Art Series Studio in Bendigo will have 0425 705 261 (Cath Armstrong). www. a modern exterior and will be “the first hotel I theoldstoreonbarnard.com. know of that will have original artwork in every Another relative newcomer to Bendigo is room, in every corridor,” says Deague. See Rocks on Rosiland, a restaurant, bar and www.artserieshotels.com.au for details. social hub in the heart of the Bendigo CBD. Set in a former National Bank ROOFTOP EXPERIENCE building, Rocks overlooks Rosalind Park and the Alexandra Fountain, and JACKSON’S & Co has 150 years of history features modern dining, casual bar food but is one of Ballarat’s chicest addresses and al fresco lunches. It is open seven following the opening of its Rooftop Terrace days a week. Chef Ben Massey has Cocktail Bar. created the menu calling on European, Established as a hotel in 1861, Jackson’s & Asian and fresh modern cooking, so Co has undergone a complete renovation expect dishes like Szechuan crusted half and third floor extension to create a balance duck, pickled papaya and bean-sprout between a modern vibe and old-school salad with tamarind and chilli caramel; charm. The Rooftop Terrace Cocktail Bar is a or saffron crab pasta with spanner crab watering hole featuring astro turf, deck chairs meat, angel hair pasta, tomato, chilli, and colourful fittings, while the ground floor garlic and parsley. Rocks on Rosalind, restaurant and bar remain popular. Jackson’s 12 View St, Bendigo; phone (03) 5441 2222. and Co, 201 Mair St, Ballarat; phone (03) www.rocksonrosalind.com/. 5338 8101. www.jacksonandco.com.au.88 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

travelbriefsEXPANDED WINE EXPERIENCE THAI THIS MENU CLOSE TO ATTRACTIONSBRETT and Jodi Marsh recently took over DAMIEN Jones, who worked under FOR those who want to self-cater, Hilgarthe Heathcote Cellar & Store foodie hub, renowned chef David Thompson at Darley of Ballarat is a fully self-contained cottageand renamed it the Heathcote Wine Hub. Street Thai and later at Nahm in London, is located along Ballarat’s historic boulevard,The local couple say they have aimed to regarded as one of Australia’s finest Thai close to the city, Sovereign Hill and Lakemaintain the things they loved when they chefs and was hailed by leading critic John Wendouree. The designer-renovated three-first wandered in - the friendly welcomes, Lethlean as serving “hot food in a cool bedroom cottage includes a walk-in pantryknowledgeable insights, historic character climate”. His latest venture is Catfish Thai in partially stocked for guests’ use and aof the store, good coffee, great food Ballarat, a contemporary Thai restaurant that laundry and kitchen - ideal for short andand local produce. But they have also also offers cooking classes. Jones opened long stays. A newly restored claw-foot bathintroduced new elements, expanding the Catfish after working at another Ballarat is a nod to history, nestled among modernwine experience and literally knocking highlight, Lydiard Wine Bar, and diners can luxuries, including gas-ducted heating (itdown the walls to create a new experience. watch he and his kitchen team in action can get cold in the goldfields), an additionalThey now offer 24 wines to taste each thanks to an open-view kitchen. Diners gas log fireplace, flat-screen televisions andday and are open daily, as well as selling are offered the choice of set banquets, iPod docking facilities. Each of the stylishover 200 wines from several dozen local or can choose individual items from the bedrooms has a new bed, fresh linen, pillows,producers online. Meals are available and menu. You’ll find Catfish on Main Rd, a blankets and cushions. Outside there is athe fridges are filled with locally sourced strip endowed with several good eateries, cottage garden to the front of the house, whileproduce, including cheese, chutneys, and bright young staff and a crisp wine list to the rear, there is a large area for childrenolive oils and charcuterie. The Heathcote add to the appeal. Starters may include Thai to play, a cubby house, complete with slideWine Hub, 105 High St, Heathcote; phone sausage in a betel leaf with shards of ginger, and sand-pit and a decked area under a(03) 5433 2204. www.heathcotewinehub. peanuts and a garnish of puffed crackling; large tree, perfect for relaxing. A brickedcom.au. or crepes with coconut and kaffir lime, courtyard, just outside the back door, offers shredded chicken and longan. Main choices another area in which to enjoy the garden.LUXURY HIDEAWAY may feature a duck jungle curry or stir-fried Hilgar, Victoria St, Ballarat East; phone Wagyu beef with dried shrimp, chilli, green 0409 189 853. www.hilgar.com.BILSON’S Landing is billed as Daylesford’s peppercorn and apple eggplant. Catfish ismost glamorous and stylish new luxury open Tuesday to Saturday 6pm-late and is at Above: Damien Jones at Catfish.hideaway. The modern architect-designed 42-44 Main Rd, Ballarat; phone (03) Opposite pagebuilding features two three-bedroom 5331 5248. www.catfishthai.com.au. Left: John Harris at Mitchell Harris Urban Cellar Door.houses and has sweeping views of LakeDaylesford. It is only metres from thelegendary Lake House restaurant and ashort stroll into town. Each bedroom hasits own ensuite bathroom with rain showerand the master bedroom features a soakerbath. Each house sleeps six and canbe booked separately or together. Thereis a media library for all tastes in musicand multi-zone Bose speakers, while achef’s kitchen has Smeg appliances anda double-door refrigerator with ice maker,and everything you need to cook up astorm! A Nespresso coffee maker and agas barbecue are also popular, and dogsare welcome. Other facilities include freewi-fi, gas log fire, off-street parking andheated towel rails. For details and bookingssee www.bilsonslanding.com.au. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 89

105 TASTED48 AWARDEDCENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIASome jewels were on show in each of the categories Mitchelton Blackwood SAUVIGNONon show, with the best performers coming from riesling, Park Central Victoria BLANC & BLENDScool climate cabernet, the younger shiraz and marsanne Riesling 2013 HHHHand viognier in the white varietals. Subdued floral whiff, with 11 TASTED an edge of stonefruit-like 5 AWARDEDSPARKLING Mount Avoca Jack characters and a tight, crisp Barry Pyrenees Sparkling and flavoursome palate. A “Victoria needs a cool year to10 TASTED Shiraz NV HHH classic at its best now. $20 produce their best sauvignon7 AWARDED A simple fruit bomb, with Fowles Wine Ladies blancs and blends - it is such hints of mint and black pepper Who Shoot Their Lunch a vintage thing,” noted oneSome solid performers here notes adding interest. Dry Strathbogie Ranges judge. But there were a fewthat showed freshness, good finish. $35.95 Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 nice quaffers.yeast autolysis and as one Excellent varietal fruit smellingjudge described, “persistent Taltarni Moonambel and tasting of lychees and Mitchelton The Bendlength and line”. Sparkling Shiraz citrus blossom, with good level Central Victoria 2012 HHH of acid to balance. $34.95 Sauvignon Blanc SemillonBlue Pyrenees A youthful style, with a cherry- 2013 HHHHPyrenees Vintage Brut like bouquet; oak tends to Kimbarra Wines Pungent passionfruit varietal2010 HHHH1/2 dominate. Similar palate. $26 Great Western Riesling nose and good varietal palate,A lovely full flavoured, fruity 2013 HHH1/2 with spicy edge and nicestyle, with a light bronze hue, RIESLING Pleasant consumer style, with balance between the acid andexcellent acid balance, some bright spicy floral fragrances, a pleasant phenolics. $16leesy characters and a long, 8 TASTED touch of residual sugar balancedclean and crisp finish. $24 6 AWARDED by very good acid. $27 Naked Wines Boy Meets Naked Wines A+R Boy Girl Central VictoriaFowles Wine Victoria Excellent class. “Most wines Meets Girl Reserve Sauvignon Blanc SemillonProsecco 2013 HHH1/2 here raised the fruit profile and Central Victoria Riesling 2013 HHH1/2A clean, crisp and refreshing with a touch more acid, would 2013 HHH1/2 Well-balanced, bright, fresh,style, with delicate aromatics have lifted these wines to even A complex Alsace style of green and grassy style - quiteand a good level of prosecco further heights,” suggested wine, with hints of passionfruit sauterne-like with good residualfruit showing through on the one judge. mixed with a touch of sugar/acid balance. $12.99palate. $16.95 grassiness and good/acid balance. $18.99 Blue Pyrenees PyreneesTaltarni Moonambel Blanc McPherson Wines Basilisk Sauvignon Blanc Semillonde Blancs 2011 HHH Central Victoria Riesling 2013 HHHA big, rich, creamy style, with 2013 HHH1/2 Gunmetal and guavas ondelicate lime/citrus characters A full flavoured, technically the nose, with an interestingand some development. $26 correct classic, with citrus/floral complexity to the oily, textured fragrances and lime and lychee palate. $18Blue Pyrenees Merindoc Heathcote palate. At its best now! $17.99Traditional Pyrenees Riesling 2013 HHHH Mount Avoca PyreneesSparkling NV HHH Some subtle floral nuances Sauvignon Blanc SemillonAttractive meaty/smallgoods- on the nose and a lean, racy 2012 HHHlike aromas and well put acid palate loaded with bright Austere, dry and showingtogether palate, albeit a tad lime and lemon varietal fruit some nice aged elements, withsimple. $20 characters. $21 good acid backbone. $21.85Blue Pyrenees PyreneesSparkling Rosé 2008 HHH Mount Avoca PyreneesAttractive strawberry-like Fumé Blanc 2010 HHHpinot aromas. Pleasant palate; Great integration of varietalslightly angular and green. $24 fruit and smoky bacon-like oak. Has length and some alcohol warmth. $25.8590 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

regional tastingOTHER DRY CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR Fowles Wine LadiesWHITE VARIETALS Who Shoot Their& BLENDS 10 TASTED 2 TASTED Lunch Strathbogie 2 AWARDED 1 AWARDED Ranges Merlot Lagrein10 TASTED There were a couple of worthy Tempranillo 2010 HHH5 AWARDED wines here but the judges Just one nice example from a Nose is a rich red berry were disappointed with the cooler region. compote, with an earthy/An excellent group of strong rest. Too many of them lacked allspice edge and sweet fruit/varietal performers from a fruit weight. Montara Grampians Pinot dried herb palate. $34.95range of varieties. Fowles Wine Noir 2012 HHH1/2 Are You Game? Dark forest floor-like fruit CABERNETMount Burrumboot Estate Victoria Chardonnay bouquet, with a ripe lift and BLENDSHeathcote Marsanne 2012 HHHH a simple spicy cherry palateViognier 2009 HHHHH Powerful stonefruit/melon and good use of oak to 3 TASTEDA long, complex and generous aromas leading on to a simple balance. $25 2 AWARDEDwine, with lovely aged and fleshy palate showingMarsanne fruit showing loads of excellent varietal OTHER RED “A small class of good qualitythrough. The wine has balance, fruit, with good oak/acid VARIETALS & blends,” said one judge.length and freshness, with support. $16.95 BLENDSexcellent intensity. $25 Fowles Wine Merindoc Heathcote 5 TASTED Are You Game?Naked Wines Boy Meets Chardonnay 2012 HHH 3 AWARDED Victoria CabernetGirl Central Victoria Sweet biscuity nose and Merlot 2010 HHHHPinot Grigio 2013 HHHH elegant palate line, with The blends definitely Nose of brambles andSoft pink hues, with pear drop- slightly honeyed varietal fruit outperformed the straight blackcurrant with a hint oflike fragrances and a clean, flavours. $21 varietals here. the cigar box. Good palatecrisp and long fruit-driven Mount Burrumboot Estate length and structure, with apalate. Acid in perfect balance MERLOT Heathcote Petit Verdot complexity of fruit, tannin andwith sweetness. $12.99 2008 HHH1/2 acid. $16.95 4 TASTED Dark fruity aromas showingTahbilk Central Victoria 0 AWARDED minty notes and long, full- Blue Pyrenees PyreneesMarsanne 2013 HHHH flavoured, fruity palate ripe Cabernet Merlot MalbecNose is a wonderful intensity with tannins and good acid 2009 HHHHof dried apricots and bright support. $30 Vibrant concentration of richorange blossom. Persistent Taltarni Rosso Pyrenees dark red fruits matched withflavours and good acid/phenolic Sangiovese Cabernet very good tannins and showingbalance. $18.25 Sauvignon Merlot plenty of well-handled oak 2009 HHH length. $32Tahbilk Central Victoria Mature, lean and oaky, withViognier 2013 HHHH some leafy notes and touch ofA vibrancy of honeysuckle spice. $23on the nose and long, softlytextured palate offering amouthful of rich flavours withdelicate floral notes. $19.50Mount Avoca GrowersBlend Avoca ClassicDry White 2008 HHH1/2A classic aged white - nose is allhoneysuckle and violet crumble.Palate with lots of developedflavour persistence. $16.97Roland Kaval John Harris JUDGESWine manager for Global Partner and winemakerWine Markets, winemaker for Mitchell Harris Wines Victor Nashfor Cavalier Wines and & runs own consultancy Chief Winemakerformer winemaker for St business. Formerly at Fowles. 15 yearsLeonards in North East sparkling winemaker for winemaking experience.Victoria. Associate judge Domaine Chandon in the A finalist in the Youngat Ballarat Wine Show. Yarra Valley. Regional & Australian WinemakerHas been a winemaker state wineshow judge. of the Year competition.for 23 years Guest lecturer at Charles Director of the Victorian Sturt University and Wines Show. Deakin University. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 91

CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA CABERNET SHIRAZ & BLENDS SAUVIGNON 2012 & 2011 10 TASTED 15 TASTED 6 AWARDED 7 AWARDED The judges found this a solid This group was divided into mid-weight class showing good two distinct styles; the spicy, varietal character, with the peppery, cool-climate ones wines holding up well. and the big, rich, overtly fruity. Today it was the cool-climate Blue Pyrenees Richardson wines that went to the front,” Pyrenees Cabernet said one judge. Sauvignon 2012 HHHH A dark chocolate and berry McPherson Wines combination on the nose Chapter Three and drying tannic palate, Strathbogie Ranges with an abundance of cassis Shiraz 2012 HHHHH fruit characters. $25 A very appealing shiraz that is a lovely combination of Maygars Hill Reserve good peppery varietal fruit, Mansfield Cabernet subtle use of oak and some Sauvignon 2010 HHHH graphite-like tannins in the A leafy varietal, with a dark background. Has length and berry bouquet edged with balance. $24.99 herbal notes. Rich and flavoursome in the mouth, with McPherson Wines a hint of licorice. $36 Moonstruck Central Victoria Shiraz Mount Avoca Pyrenees 2012 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Delicious smells of milk 2010 HHHH chocolate, with subtle oaky A soft, ripe, easy drinking notes and there is a lovely cabernet, with attractive spicy elegance to the spicy, varietal notes and a seamless peppery, fruit palate. $17.99 balance between oak, fruit and acid. $29.49 Blue Pyrenees Estate Richardson Pyrenees Taltarni Pyrenees Cabernet Shiraz 2012 HHHH Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Cooler-climate style - quite A big, dark number, with spicy Rhone-like in character, with blackcurrant and blackberry- excellent fruit and a complex like fruit characters and a combo between the oak, big “whack” of oak. Very tannin and acid. $25 generous wine. $40 Maygars Hill Mansfield McPherson Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Basilisk Central Victoria 2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz Mourvedre Earthy herbal bouquet and 2012 HHH1/2 chewy, greenish fruit palate, Ripe plums and aniseed with good length of tannins to on the nose and fleshy balance and support. $24 ripe fruit on a firm, tannic palate, with tarry hints. Needs time. $17.99 Fowles Wines Are You Game? Victoria Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Spices and raspberries lift off the nose and peppery red fruit fills the mouth. A good commercial style. $16.95 Willoughby Bridge Blue Pyrenees Pyrenees Heathcote Cabernet Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2010 HHH Lovely lifted, fresh blackberry A cassis nose and well-structured bouquet and a fruit pastille- palate laden with ripe varietal fruit like palate, with gentle and good oak/acid balance. $30 tannins giving balance and length. $1892 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

regional tastingFour Sisters CentralVictoria Shiraz2012 HHHBright, juicy, red berryaromas and flavours, withvery drying tannins. $15.65SHIRAZ Kimbarra Wines2010 & OLDER Great Western Shiraz 2010 HHH1/216 TASTED Spicy, aromatic, dark fruit4 AWARDED fragrances, with similar flavours on a long, tight palate showingThe judges were disappointed subtle use of oak. $30with the number of developedor developing wines. There Montara Chalambarwere a few performers Road Grampians Shirazshowing the required fruit 2009 HHHvibrancy and freshness. Wines Big ripe leathery bouquet andfrom the warm vintages plenty of blackberries, plumsmay look good early but and spicy oak on the palate.could struggle with early Good acid balance. $NAdevelopment. SWEET WHITESTaltarni T Series VictoriaShiraz 2010 HHHH 1 TASTEDOne for the cellar with its 0 AWARDEDrich lifted spicy fruit, lovelydrying tannins and excellentcrisply fresh acid backbone. 3-5 $17Trentham HeathcoteShiraz 2009 HHHHPowerful, mature, dark berrynose and big, long, ripe palate -sweet in the middle, with fruitcake-like spice characters. $30 STAR RATINGS Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 136. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 93

255 TASTED163 AWARDEDI TA LI A N & S PA N I S HAn amazing tasting of Spanish and Italian wines this year with a Tenuta Fernanda La Tunella Col Liviusgreat representation from the old countries up against the new Cappello Prosecco Friulano Bianco NVworld versions of the same varieties. The judges did a great DOC NV HHH HHH1/2job in sorting out the “wheat from the chaff” in these most Good intensity of fresh Peachy nose, with a pear elements, with touch of toasty oak.ITALIAN Furlan Giuliano Conti di Buscareto steely minerality tucked Lovely mouthfeel,SPARKLING Treviso Prosecco Italy Nero NV HHH underneath. €4 EU with good flavour NV HHH1/2 Lifted strawberry/ persistence. Complex20 TASTED Pungent herbal bouquet raspberry aromas MOSCATO and harmonious. $NA12 AWARDED with floral touches. and lovely balanced Handcrafted Lovely mouthfilling sweetness on the 3 TASTED by Geoff HardyA mixed bag of solid persistence of apple and creamy, fruit palate. $45 2 AWARDED Adelaide Hills Fianodrinking wines. “Very pear-like flavours. $NA Fratelli Martini 2013 HHH1/2nice drinkable styles Pizzini King Valley Secondo Luigi Pertaringa South Floral/citrus blossomhere; fresh and clean,” Prosecco 2013 Canti Pinot Grigio Australia Moscato aromas lift out the glass.agreed the judges. “A HHH1/2 Brut Spumante 2013 HHHH Palate shows long, light,few showed complexity A very fine bead, Brut NV HHH Big bubbles, restrained fresh flavours, withbut generally these are lovely lifted floral fruit Sweet and simple, with aromatics, delicate some bright acidity. $25excellent quaffing styles.” fragrances, slightly herbaceous aromas and mousse and subtle fruit Tenuto Sarno 1860 pungent palate, refreshing strawberry flavours supported by a Giovanni IudiceBorgoluce with nice minerality flavours. $19.95 good backbone of fresh, 1860 Sarno AvellinoValdobbiadene underneath. $19.50 Montelvini crisp acidity. $18 Fiano 2012 HHH1/2Prosecco NV HHHH Andreola Orsola Venegazzo Asolo Zesty, minerally, limeGood creamy mousse, Dirupo Superiore Superiore Prosecco Trentham La bouquet leading on to awith lifted floral/lemon Brut Valdobbiadene Treviso Brut NV HHH Famiglia Trentham tight and quite savouryaromatics and a light and Prosecco NV HHH A lovely mix of spicy, floral Moscato 2013 HHH palate that’s fresh withlively palate with plenty Light and lean, and herbal characters. Bright muscat aromas lemony acidity. €13 EUof acid and a fresh, clean with fresh, punchy, Good flavour length and and very well-balanced Kellerei Kalternfinish. $NA pineapple-like fruit persistence. €8.5 EU palate. “Simple and Caldaro Vial Sudtirol characters. Interesting delicious.” $16 Alto Adige PinotBorgoluce Prosecco style. $27 Bianco 2011 HHH1/2Treviso Brut Cantine Della ITALIAN Smells of guavas andNV HHH1/2 Valtenesi Civielle DRY WHITE passionfruit, with lovelyA lovely wine. Fresh and Lugana Vigna VARIETALS palate weight andfloral on the nose, with Polone Metodo balance. “A decent pinotnicely structured palate Classico Brut Lake 20 TASTED blanc varietal.” $NAshowing good overall Garda Brut NV HHH 7 AWARDED La Tunella Biancobalance and length. $NA Bright yellow green Biancosesto Friuli wine smelling of burnt The judges thought this a Bianco 2012 HHHFratelli Martini Canti butter and biscuits, patchy group. “Too many Attractive nose - all floralSpumante Prosecco with a complex, earthy lacked the classic Italian and aromatic. A softlyNV HHH1/2 palate. €26.45 EU bitter almond note,” said textured palate that’s fullPleasant orchard fruit di Lorenzon one judge. The best wines of flavour. $NAcharacters on the nose. Francesco Le showed freshness, vitality Molinetto CarreaSeamlessly balanced Magnolie Treviso and structure, while a Gavi Cortesepalate shows good Prosecco NV HHH number were either too 2012 HHHstructure and flavour Restrained spicy apple simple or too developed. Light, fresh anddepth. $18.95 fragrances and fine, light varietally correct with palate, with delicate Vetrere Cre Fiano simple mineral/citrus acidity. €8 EU Bianco Taranto 2012 characters. $NA HHHH Musky rose petal nose, with lovely palate structure and texture, oily mouthfeel, and well- balanced, citrus/pear-like flavours. $2094 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

varietal tastingOTHER Millbrook Margaret PINOT GRIS/ITALIAN River Vermentino GRIGIOWHITE 2013 HHHVARIETALS Delicate aromas and 12 TASTED crisp, tight palate, with 9 AWARDED8 TASTED good phenolic grip and6 AWARDED punchy acidity. $22 “All over the shop stylistically,” said oneA very solid group ARNEIS judge. “The best hadof wines, with one intensity of flavour andreal standout. “Very 5 TASTED balance, while the worstconsistent and 3 AWARDED had piercing aciditycomplex group,” without fruit depth, oragreed the judges. “The better wines had tried to trick us with texture and length, while sugar.”I Campi Campo the lesser ones didn’tVulcano Soave get the balance right,”Cortese 2010 commented one judge.HHHHHAn earthy nose with Bird in Handsome interesting Adelaide Hills Arneispungency. Very 2013 HHH1/2complex, with layers Lean, balanced wineof savoury flavours and with some earthiness,some fantastic depth red apple characters,and weight to the delicate spiciness andpalate. “A very classy nice gritty tannins. $28wine,” according toone judge. $28.99 K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills ArneisAntichello Soave 2012 HHH1/2Cortese 2012 HHHH A very intense “outLifted complexity of there” style, with funkyearthy/floral fragrances. oiliness, nice varietalWell-balanced, slightly fruit characters, nicelean palate, with nice texture and plenty offruit freshness. Will interest. $22improve with time. $20 Tenuta Carretta Trentham LaCeravolo Adelaide Langhe Arneis Famiglia TrenthamHills Cortese 2013 2011 HHH Pinot GrigioHHH1/2 Complex and interesting, 2013 HHHHQuite riesling-like, with pears, stonefruit A fresh, green, crunchywith complex, spicy, and nutty development. apple style of grigio, withfloral aromas and very Simple but intense. $26 very lifted aromas andinteresting and intense minerally citrus flavours,apple-like flavour with some balancedpersistence. $16.75 sweetness. $16Trentham La Grant Burge BarossaFamiglia Trentham Valley Pinot GrisVermentino 2013 2013 HHH1/2HHH1/2 A vibrant wine, with aFresh citrus nose and lingering balance of pearlayers of sweet floral/ and green apple aromas,citrus flavours on the and flavours edged withgenerous, intense and spice. $19.95persistent palate. $16 Pizzini King ValleyTiberio Colline Pinot GrigioPescaresi Pecorino 2013 HHH1/2IGP Pecorino A lift of pears and spicesAbruzzo 2012 HHH to the nose, with someInteresting honeyed lovely nutty flavours.quince/tropical nose. “Very drinkable,” saidPalate more savoury one judge. $18.50than sweet. Goodfood wine. $29.95 BRA034_MPOaCr_cAhg/eAdRpireisllin2g0210140_WWineISNtateE_5S9xT27A0_TAdE_8F/A0.1in/1d4d 9215:06 PM

ITA LIAN & SPANISHAntichello Veneto DOLCETTO & Heartland Langhorne Il PoggionePinot Grigio 2012 LIGHT REDS Creek Dolcetto Rosso di MontalcinoHHH1/2 Lagrein 2012 HHH SangioveseEarthy, spicy nose 4 TASTED Vibrant purple hues, 2010 HHH1/2showing a bright floral 3 AWARDED obvious oak aromas and Complex, meaty aromas,lift and offering a nice a dense and juicy palate, with a spicy touch andmouthful of oily floral/ A couple of nice drinking with a drying finish. $21 dense, firm palate withspicy flavours. $16.99 wines made in a more intense, dried berryGrant Burge East “muscular” style. They SANGIOVESE flavours. Very youthful.Argyle Adelaide need food! $30.80Hills Pinot Gris 17 TASTED2012 HHH1/2 11 AWARDED Corte CaristaSmells of Fuji apples, Classico Chiantiwith nicely focused The judges found too Sangiovese 2009and quite complex much oak used here. This HHH1/2flavour profile. Upfront variety already has lots Very complex, meaty/sweetness and an oily of tannic characters in its floral bouquet and lovelytexture. $23.95 fruit. The best wines had savoury palate, with nice concentration and grippy tannins and aTenuta Fernanda good acid balance. slight metallic finish. $NA 919 WinesCappello Friuli Riverland SangioveseGrave Pinot Grigio La Curio McLaren Taltarni Moonambel 2012 HHH2012 HHH1/2 Vale Sangiovese Sangiovese 2009 Clean, straightforward,Described as a 2011 HHHH HHH1/2 spicy plum aromas and“challenging” style by A juicy and complex An elegant, New World sweet, balanced, fruitone judge. It’s earthy style, with masses of style of sangiovese with palate, with texturedand spicy, with some oak and loads of acid but “forceful” cherry fruit, tannins. $30residual sweetness but all in balance with some prominent oak and slightlyin balance. €3.50 EU lovely varietal fruit. $23 drying tannins. $23 Viticcio Riserva Classico ChiantiCeravolo Adelaide Torre Fornello Nero Cantine Bonacchi Kirrihill Clare Valley SangioveseHills Pinot Grigio Lucido Piacentino Gentilesco Chianti Sangiovese 2012 2010 HHH2013 HHH Pinot Nero NV HHH Sangiovese 2011 HHH Vibrant oak driven style.Bright, fresh, green Boiled lolly, sweet nose HHH1/2 A solid style - big and Smoky lift to the noseapple nose and very and bright, light flavours, Nicely structured wine juicy, with blackberry- and powerful tannicfruit-driven palate that is with drying tannins and with classic sour cherry/ like fruit, vanillin oak and palate. $NAvarietally good. $16.75 zesty acidity. €24 EU cedar nose and perfectly fresh acid. $28Mt O Alpine Valley Hand Crafted balanced “authentic” SANGIOVESEPinot Gris 2013 HHH by Geoff Hardy varietal flavours. $18.99 Castello di Meleto BLENDSLight, fresh and crisp, Limestone Coast Vigna Casi Riservawith good intensity of Dolcetto 2012 HHH Tenafeate Creek Chianti Sangiovese 9 TASTEDspicy apple and citrus Nice combination Basket Press One 2009 HHH 4 AWARDEDelements. $19.95 of plums, spices Tree Hill Sangiovese Smells of chocolate andKellerei Kaltern and leathery/earthy 2011 HHH1/2 cherries, with quite an An idiosyncratic groupSoll Sudtirol Alto characters, with A dense, juicy, oily, textured, prune-like that divided the judges.Adige Pinot Grigio balancing acidity. $30 Aussie style; earthy palate. $NA Lots of different varieties2011 HHH and chocolaty, with and styles that are lostRosewater-like bouquet some savoury aromas Montemercurio in translation. A numberand texturally interesting and long, persistent Messaggero of these would be goodpalate, with sweet, toasty, flavours. $20 Montepulciano food wines. Some needapricot flavours. $NA Sangiovese to watch the balance of 2007 HHH tannins and acid. Earthy and savoury; mature and complex starting to dry out. Drink soon. €18.50 EUDAY 1 - JUDGESDavid Bowley Lucy Forbes Marc ScalzoOwner/winemaker for Marketing Manager at Senior winemaker atVinterloper Wines. Formerly The Spanish Acquisition. Rutherglen Estates.technical auditor for the Worked in many aspects Previously workedAustralian Wine & Brandy of wine industry including as a winemaker forCorporation (AWBC). Has Marketing, Sales and Brown Brothersprevious experience as Winemaking. Has also Milawa Vineyard.a winemaker at Simeon worked in Germany, the UKMcGuigan in Loxton and and Australia, both winealso Orlando Wyndham. making and salesConducted a vintage in and marketing.Burgundy in 2003.96 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

Fratelli Pardi BARBERA NEBBIOLO varietal tastingMontefalco RossoUmbria Sangiovese 7 TASTED 17 TASTED www.courabyrawines.comSagrantino Cabernet 1 AWARDED 14 AWARDEDSauvignon Merlot Australia’s only sparkling wine to be presented at Vinitaly 2014,2010 HHH1/2 Glenwillow Barbera “A great line-up,” with 4200 sites and 100,000 wines on display and only oneSour cherry bouquet, d’Yandoit Bendigo enthused the judges. Australian sparkling wine.with a fusion of Barbera 2011 HHH “It was hard to pickaniseed. Savoury Complex, earthy/ between the Italian and We are taking on the world’s best wines.and chocolaty in the licorice-like bouquet the Australian wines.”mouth, with gorgeous and nicely structured Lots of authentic Courabyra sits in a small pocket 6km north west of Tumbarumba,supple tannins. Needs palate, with jubey fruit aromas and flavours, located at the foothills of the Snowy Mountains. Tumbarumba is one ofantipasto! $29.95 characters. $25 and overall showingFattoria Viticcio well-managed tannins. Australia’s premium cool climate wine regions,Bere Toscana VALPOLICELLA perfect for the production of our elegant sparkling and table wines.Chianti Sangiovese Travaglini ReservaBlend 2011 HHH 11 TASTED Gattinara Nebbiolo Travel to this majestic little town, try some of our wines andIntense and moody 5 AWARDED 2007 HHHHH experience some of the most enjoyable days of your lifewine, with lovely The nose is a lovelyaromatic floral fruit and Santa Sofia complexity of cloves,hints of licorice. $NA Amarone Corvina leather and honey.Taltarni Rosso Rondinella Lovely soft, sweet,Pyrenees Valpolicella fruit palate, with fine,Sangiovese Blend 2007 HHH1/2 powdery tannins and2009 HHH Very complex, oaky a good backbone ofOaky style. Lovely palate wine - smells of caramel acidity. €28.30 EUstructure and simple red and coffee, with long,fruit characters, with lingering, honeyed Cogno Cascinafine tannins. $23 caramel-like flavours. $97 Nuova BaroloBonacchi Riserva Valentina Cubi Nebbiolo 2009Chianti Sangiovese Valpolicella DOC HHHH1/2Blend 2007 HHH Iperico Certified A full, rich andA very approachable, Organic Corvina rounded wine, veryfruit-driven quaffer, with Rondinella Molinara well structured, withgood length and some Veneto 2012 HHH delicious bright red fruitcomplexity. $21.99 Fresh red currant/ characters, some fine, tobacco/licorice aromas powdery tannins andMONTEPULCIANO and a light, “chirpy”, moderate acidity. $94.86 fruit-driven palate. Well-4 TASTED made wine. $25.95 Travaglini Gattinara3 AWARDED Trentham La Nebbiolo 2008 Famiglia Frizzante HHHH1/2Kirrihill Mount Lofty Mastin 2013 HHH A concentration ofMontepulciano 2012 A lovely lush, juicy coffee-like aromasHHH1/2 drink, with a complexity mixed with leathery,Looks great - very deep, of coffee and jammy mushroom elements.violet, crimson colour, fruit characters. Nice Full, complex palate,with lovely sour cherry length. $16 with powerful, mouthnose and very juicy and Valentina Cubi puckering tannins andcomplex palate. $28 Morar Amarone lively acid. €20 EUAntichello Abruzzo della ValpolicellaMontepulciano DOC 2006 HHH Cogno Bordini2012 HHH Almost chocolaty in Barbaresco NebbioloSmooth, commercial colour but still has 2010 HHHHstyle, with confectionery lovely sweet red berry Smells of cloves,cherry characters, lots fruit. Holding up well. cinnamon, licorice andof alcohol and low Drink now. $NA violets. Lovely weightacidity. $20 Santa Sofia Corvina and balance of savouryTenafeate Creek Rondella Malinara flavours, strong acid andBasket Press Valpolicella grippy tannins. $90One Tree Hill 2011 HHHMontepulciano Simple, almost coffee- Pizzini King Valley2011 HHH like aromas and a Nebbiolo 2010Earthy nose with dry, sweet/savoury HHHHsome mintiness. palate, with fine tannin Complex, earthy wine,Rich and heavy in the structure. $20.16 with sweet, leathery/mouth, with balanced licorice bouquet andsweetness. $25 silky, textured palate, with red fruits and very drying tannins. $48 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 97

ITA LIAN & SPANISHTenuta Carretta Trentham La Cantine San Pirro Varone Vigne Vignalta ColliBarbaresco Nebbiolo Famiglia Trentham Marzano Falo Rare Salento Rosso Euganei Veneto2009 HHHH Nebbiolo 2012 HHH Salento Negro NV HHH Rosso 2008 HHHQuite austere at the Woody and floral on Amaro 2012 HHH1/2 Ribena-like nose and Complex wine, with lovelymoment, with bitumen the nose, with a silky, Deep crimson wine, big Christmas cake of a dark fruit characters,-like fragrances and smooth palate full of with ripe cherry fruit, palate, with lovely texture firm tannins and gooda complexity of spicy juicy, rich flavours. $16 crisp acid and edgy and balance. €16 EU minerality. €18.90 EUand slightly sweet fruit tannins. Flavoursome Cantine Sanflavours. $45 Protero Adelaide Hills and balanced. $14.95 Marzano Il Pumo SWEET WINESCogno Ravera Nebbiolo 2006 HHH Cantine San Salento PrimitivoBarolo Nebbiolo Mature leathery/licorice Marzano Falo 2012 HHH 3 TASTED2007 HHHH nose and long, savoury Manduria Primitivo Violet lift to the oaky nose 3 AWARDEDA silky, smooth wine palate, with nice fruit 2011 HHH1/2 and fleshy palate, withthat’s minty, herbal and underneath. $60 Very smooth, silky ripe blackberry fruit. $9.95 Small solid group ofearthy on the nose; with wine, with ripe cherry Cantine San pleasant, bitter sweet,lushness, chocolaty Bramaterra Riserva berry fruit layered with Marzano Il Pumo drinking wines.flavours and very fine Roasio Nebbiolo spicy licorice elements. Salento Negrotannins. $113.24 2005 HHH Very concentrated Amaro 2012 HHH Vignalta ColliDeep Woods Interesting wine, very flavours. $16.95 Velvety smooth wine Euganei FiorReserve Margaret supple and silky, with Handcrafted with powerful fruit, d’Arancio AlpianaeRiver Nebbiolo 2010 chocolaty aromas and by Geoff Hardy drying tannins and fresh Passito 2009 HHHHHHH1/2 a mature, still vibrant Limestone Coast acid. $9.95 Marmalade, rose petalSoft juicy style. Lovely palate. €15 EU Lagrein 2010 Cantine San and dark honey aromas.balance and complexity HHH1/2 Marzano Tarantino Medium-bodied palateof spice, licorice, orange OTHER Smells quite shiraz-like, Puglia Primitivo rich with marmaladepeel and stewed plum ITALIAN RED with minty elements Merlot 2012 HHH flavours, layered withcharacters. $35 VARIETALS & and chocolate prune-like Well-structured wine. fresh acidity. €18.90 EUMarchisio Pietro BLENDS flavours wrapped in ripe Nice balance of spicyRoero Nebbiolo tannins. $30 berry/cherry fruit, big Santa Sofia2009 HHH1/2 33 TASTED Cantine Lonardo tannins and clean Recioto ValpolicellaAttractive, sweet, 15 AWARDED Taurasi Aglianico acidity. $14.95 2007 HHHHspicy, floral and dried 2008 HHH1/2 Michelini Alpine Raisin aromas - afruit nose, with similar Mixed group with some Complex and slightly Valleys Teroldego touch porty. Excellentcharacters on the palate interesting examples of smoky aromas with a 2012 HHH palate length, withand nice mouthfilling varieties and styles but peppery lift. Pleasant Bright purple wine, quite rich chocolate/carameltannins. €4.20 EU also too many extracted palate, with peppery fruit savoury, with blackberry flavours and just a hint ofProtero Adelaide and simple wines and soft tannins. $27 notes, dash of pepper balsamic characters. $75Hills Nebbiolo overall. Diverse range of Vignalta Colli and plush acidity. $18.502008 HHH1/2 primitivos. “A wine to be Euganei Gemola Vetrere Passaturo L’Esilio AleaticoVery tight and still quite explored,” said one judge. Colli Euganei Rosso Malvasia Taranto dell’Elba Monteficoyouthful, with good 2007 HHH1/2 2012 HHH 2012 HHH1/2varietal fruit, good level Cantine San Smells like a Christmas A fleshy, meaty style, with Sweet toffee notes toof cedary wood and high Marzano Reserva cake. Palate has lovely sweet tarry aromas and a the floral nose. Rich andin acid. $60 62 Anniversario warmth, complexity and full-bodied palate. $12 smooth in the mouth,Kirrihill Clare Valley Manduria Primitivo lovely flavour intensity. Poggio Brigante with attractive chocolatyNebbiolo 2012 HHH 2010 HHHH €25.50 EU Arsura Morellino fruit flavours. $NATight and savoury, with Big and bold; quite New Papale Linea Scansano 2010 HHHfloral/plum aromas World, with sweet/ Oro Puglia Italy Smooth, firm, rich andand complex, grippy, savoury aromas and Primitivo 2011 HHH tannic, with lovely spicytannic palate with bright grippy tannic palate full of Some serious oak aromas and flavours. $NAacidity. $28 sweet vibrant fruit layered has been used here, with fresh acidity. $26.95 with dark ripe fruit underneath and loads of grippy tannins. €9.99 EUDAY 2 - JUDGESJoel Pizzini Victoria Sharples Martin Williams MWWinemaker at Pizzini since Founder & Managing Master of Wine,2003. Has completed Director, The Wine Station, winemaking consultantvintages at Leeuwin Melbourne. Senior judge at and pinotphile.Estate in Margaret the World Shiraz Challenge Winemaker for CaledoniaRiver and Stonier’s on UK since 2006. Judge at the Australis and MetierMornington Peninsula. International Cool Climate Wines. Has judged atThree vintages in Italy Show Red Hill, Cairns Wine all major capital cityhave fuelled his passion Show & Federation Square wine shows and somefor Italian varieties. Wine Showcase. regional ones.98 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

varietal tastingSPANISH Bodega Castro OTHER Naia Rueda Verdejo Cantine SanSPARKLING Martin Sobre Lias SPANISH 2012 HHH1/2 MarzanoWINES Rias Baixas Albarino WHITE Punchy, intense and Negroamaro San 2011 HHHH1/2 VARIETALS layered style, with citrus Marzano Rosato4 TASTED An interesting, full-bodied and quince-like aromas 2012 HHH1/23 AWARDED wine, with nutty nuances 12 TASTED and flavours. A great Smells of cherries with on the pear-like nose. 11 AWARDED food wine. $30 medicinal nuances andSome nice drinks here The intense flavours have a flavoursome and well-among several different tight acidity and carry “Very interesting wines Picante Espana balanced, strawberries-styles, with freshness freshness through to the with that something Costa Atlantica and-cream palate. $14.95and phenolics the key finish. $38 different,” said one Blanco 2010 HHH1/2to balance. judge. “Lots of food Attractive earthy Cantine Della Eidosela Arbastrum friendly wines, with lots elements to the nose, Valtenesi OrganicTorre Blanca Cava Candado De Tea Rias of textural interest.” with quite different Selene ChiarettoBrut NV HHHH Baixas Albarino 2012 candied/lemon-like Lake Garda RosatoFresh cut apple-like HHHH Vina Olabarri flavours on a soft, oily NV HHHaromas, with nutty Tropical fruit note with Rioja Viura Blanco palate. $14.99 A lean, delicate wine,toasty secondary pretty floral notes and NV HHHH fresh, vibrant andcharacters. Well- floral/citrus flavours, Delicate floral bouquet Telmo Rodriguez balanced. Very enjoyable.balanced palate, with with “salivating acid with nice spiciness. Basa Rueda Verdejo Drink now. €16.10 EUnice dryness and a freshness”. Good palate Nicely layered citrussy 2012 HHH1/2delicate mousse. $29 weight and texture. $33 palate, with complex A delicate wine but Capcans Mas Donis development through the has complexity. Sweet Monsant Rosat deRaventos I Blanc Pazo Senorans Rias length of the palate. $25 floral bouquet and a Garnacha 2012 HHHL’Hereu Penedes Baixas Albarino 2010 seamless balanced Earthy aromas and niceReserva Brut HHHH Deep Woods Estate flavour profile. $28 creamy palate, with light2009 HHHH Developing toasty aromas Margaret River summer fruits and freshThe wine has pale straw and softly textured Verdelho 2012 HHHH Pazo de Monterrey acidity. $28hues, fine bead, bready stonefruit palate with “Aromatically quite Monterrei Godelloyeasty aromas and toasty notes. Interesting challenging,” said one 2012 HHH OTHERnicely layered flavours, example. “Be wonderful judge; all earthy and Delicate floral fragrances SPANISH REDwith toasty depth and a with food.” $NA grassy. Nice layers of and very lean palate. VARIETALScitrussy finish. $39 citrussy flavours, with “Be great with spicy Valminor Davila oily complexity. $20 foods,” thought one 15 TASTEDCava de Vallformosa Rias Baixas Albarino judge. $27 13 AWARDEDMVSA Cava Brut Blend 2011 HHH1/2 Diez Siglos Heights2013 HHH Nose is delicate; slightly of the Charge Txomin Etxaniz “Mencia; go buy some,”Bright, fresh, green apple closed and earthy, with Rueda Verdejo 2012 Getariako Txakolina said one judge. Anose, with quite sweet a lean light acid-driven HHH1/2 Txakoli 2012 HHH range of varieties withflavours of quinces, palate showing citrussy Very intense A fresh summer drink consistent flavours.apples and pears. $22 characters. $54 concentration of - an interesting and tropical fruit, apricots, different varietal. “Well Bodegas GodeliaALBARINO & Stanley Estates toast and honeyed worth investigating.” $38 Viernes BierzoBLENDS Stanrock characters. Loads Mencia 2011 Marlborough of complexity and Cune Monopole Rioja HHHH1/29 TASTED Albarino 2013 HHH power. $NA Viura 2011 HHH Chocolaty, meaty aromas8 AWARDED Lightly perfumed tropical A well-balanced, mingling with bright floral, nose, with a palate that K-Naia Rueda layered wine, with blackcurrant fruit and manyStrong results here. delivers good sweet/sour Verdejo 2012 textural elements and layers of fruit, chocolate“Greatly improved with flavours. $NA HHH1/2 showing kero, ageing and earthy characters onfood,” advised one judge. Tropical aromas with characters. $25 the palate balanced by the“Some great aromatics Vina Nora Rias lemony notes. Well- tannins. $20here, with an interesting Baixas Albarino balanced flavours that ITALIAN/range of flavours from the 2012 HHH evolve nicely through SPANISH ROSE Descendientes Delively to the textured.” A light bodied style, with the slightly astringent J. Palacios Petalos floral/rose petal aromas palate. $22 6 TASTED Bierzo Mencia 2011Zarate Rias Baixas and a very delicate, floral 4 AWARDED HHHH1/2Albarino 2012 palate. $34 Marques de Alella A deep, brooding wineHHHH1/2 Pansa Blanca 2012 Simple, attractive wines. that, according to oneCitrussy nose, with Valminor Rias Baixas HHH1/2 judge, “Deservesattractive earthy spicy Albarino 2011 HHH An interesting, Artadi Artazuri contemplation”. Inky,edges and a floral lift. Nose of lemons delicately balanced Navarra Garnacha slatey, floral fragrancesLong, well-balanced palate and pears, with light wine, with nice spritzig Rosado 2012 and dense savouryhas simple citrus/tropical spiciness. Nicely textured and freshness showing, HHH1/2 palate, with mouthcoatingflavours, with tannins palate with ageing, toasty and slight tendency Colour of rose petals, with tannins. $49adding interest and characters. $40 towards sweet. $30 red berry nose, showstexture. $41 a dash of pepper. Nice balance of delicate, sweet, citrus/floral flavours. $26 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 99

ITA LIAN & SPANISH We go well Vinifera Wines Pertaringa TEMPRANILLO with wine. Mudgee Graciano McLaren Vale 2013-2011 2012 HHHH Grenache 2010 HHH Donaldson Walsh (DW) is one Quite simple but An attractive, lifted 21 TASTED of South Australia’s leading interesting and loaded floral/forest floor style, 15 AWARDED commercial law firms, delivering with inky fruits, grainy with obvious sweet outstanding service to clients tannins, well-integrated vanillin oak. $26 A mixed bag. Too many across all commercial sectors. oak and dark chocolate harsh green wines. The Whatever you sell - products elements. $35 Tribal Wines Virat best wines had strong or services, labour or ideas - we Handcrafted Mallorca Red Blend tannins but they had the can help your business reach by Geoff Hardy 2010 HHH rich fruit to carry them. a higher level. McLaren Vale G.S.M. A light red blend, Our exceptional knowledge and 2011 HHHH with complexity of Artadi Estate Rioja skills span: A delicious drink, with primary fruit, tannin and Tempranillo 2011 • Agribusiness an earthy, mixed berry ageing characters. Food HHHH1/2 • Commercial Disputes & Insolvency bouquet and very well- wine. $33 Nice sweet oak • Corporate & Commercial integrated flavours, with freshness on the • Franchising well-blended oak and Palacios Remondo nose. The palate is • International Trade fine chalky tannins. $30 La Vendimia quite delicate and • IP & Technology Agnes de Cervera Rioja Garnacha delivers a nice level of • Property La Petite Agnes Tempranillo 2012 varietal intensity, with • Self Insurance & Workers Priorat Garnacha HHH well-integrated grainy 2011 HHH1/2 Bright inky perfumed tannins. $33 Compensation Brooding, dark berry bouquet and very fresh, • Tax, Trusts & Superannuation bouquet and complex, juicy, varietally correct Dominio Mano • Wills & Estates chocolaty flavours, with palate. $30 a Mano Castilla • Wine & Hospitality good tannin integration. Tempranillo 2011 • Workplace Law Great food wine. $33 TEMPRANILLO HHHH1/2 Gran Rojo BLENDS Big, ripe style, with very Why not profit from our experience? Valdepenas concentrated minty, Garnacha 2012 HHH 4 TASTED eucalypt, fruit aromas Call (08) 8410 2555 An excellent example of 2 AWARDED layered with star anise- grenache, with intense like characters, and to confidentially discuss your syrupy nose and vibrant, An OK class of balanced, with a big mouthful of specific needs. juicy, fruit palate. $22 interesting drinks. licorice, dried berry and We’re ready to serve. Guimaro Joven mocha flavours. $22 Mencia 2012 HHH La Bascula The Kings Chambers A reserved, well- Charge Rioja Tenafeate Creek 320 King William Street integrated wine. “You Tempranillo Basket Press One Adelaide SA 5000 can taste the quality,” Grenache 2010 Tree Hill Tempranillo [email protected] said one judge. Very HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH1/2 www.donaldsonwalsh.com.au enjoyable. $37 Very bright and fresh, Quite a peppery, Telmo Rodriguez with berries, cherries redcurrant bouquet and100 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014 Gaba do Xil and nicely integrated oak a lovely concentration Valdeorras Mencia on the nose. Delicious of cassis and chocolate 2011 HHH medium-bodied palate, flavours, with tobacco- Bright, “energetic” and with great depth of juicy, like old wood adding very different. “Delicious ripe fruit flavour. Very complexity. Excellent if you like lighter styles,” approachable. $20 food wine. $20 said one judge. $32 Enrique Mendoza Valtraviso VT Crianza Millbrook La Tremenda Ribera del Duero Geographe Alicante Monastrell Crianza 2007 HHH Tempranillo 2012 2010 HHH Impressively youthful HHHH Smells of smoked for a six-year-old, Dense and brooding, meats, with great depth with slight earthy with dark stewed berry of earthy, chocolaty development. $NA fruit well-integrated with flavours. $30 the tobacco-like oak and Handcrafted by grainy tannins. Needs Geoff Hardy time in the cellar. $21 Langhorne Creek Graciano 2010 HHH Sanguine Estate Jammy fruit nose and Heathcote layered palate of dark Tempranillo 2012 fruit, spice, fruit cake, HHHH mint and herbs. $30 Dense, dark fruit aromas sitting under powerful vanillin oak. Generous, well-balanced palate. True to the variety, with nice tannin profile. $30

varietal tastingArtadi Vinas de Gain Pirramimma Remelluri Reserva A story made up of passionRioja Tempranillo McLaren Vale Rioja Tempranillo and tenacity for wine, art2011 HHHH Tempranillo 2011 2008 HHHH and culture.Quite delicious and very HHH Quite lean andapproachable, with spicy Very dense, layered restrained but with Torre Fornello: 60 hectares ofnotes to the nose and wine for lovers of big, beautiful integration of vineyards in the heart offull of dark berry flavours ripe, syrupy, red fruit dark cherry, chocolate Val Tidone, Italywrapped in fine, grainy characters. $25 and spicy characters.tannins. $70 Good ageing potential. An Ancient 17th century ruralHernado Y Sourdais Telmo Rodriguez $75 complex where tradition andAntidoto Ribera del Dehesa Gago Alegre & Valganon technology live together…Duero Tempranillo Toro Tempranillo La Calleja Rioja2011 HHHH 2011 HHH Tempranillo …side by side in anAn interesting and Simple but varietally 2010 HHH1/2 atmosphere of quality.  complex wine - less correct aromas and a Earthy nose, with a dash Here the union of Winefruit-driven, with more layered palate that’s, of spice and complex, culture and Art cultureearthy, spicy, secondary “light on its feet”. $32 brooding, licorice/dark presents the most evidentcharacters. Some subtle fruit palate nicely layered momentinky notes. Time! $47 TEMPRANILLO with oak. $45Telmo Rodriguez 2010 & OLDER Telmo Rodriguez Az. Agr. Torre FornelloGazur Ribera del M2 de Matallana Loc. FornelloDuero Tempranillo 11 TASTED Ribera del Duero2012 HHH1/2 9 AWARDED Tempranillo 29010 Ziano (PC) – ITALYQuite a different style, 2009 HHH1/2 Tel. +39.0523.861001with “nice energy”. A solid class of Quite an inky nose andLight but delivers some nicely ageing wines. a lean palate, with nice Mavrcihn/[email protected] T E 101excellent earthy, licorice “Where”, as one judge primary fruit with softand cherry flavours. $37 said, “The tannins are integration of grainyCillar de Silos calming down. Less, tannins. $72Joven Ribera del and better handled oak Yealands EstateDuero Tempranillo worked well.” Awatere Valley2012 HHH MarlboroughA very fresh, lifted, Bodegas Baigorri Tempranilloprimary fruit-focused Reserva Rioja 2010 HHHwine, with subtle Tempranillo 2005 Very lean style - lightlypeppery notes and HHHH perfumed, with subtlegrippy tannins. $33 Beautiful, seamlessly gamey/strawberryEmilio Moro integrated wine. “Pretty characters and gentleBodegas Finca damn good for its tannins. $27.95 NZResalso Ribera del age,” commented one Telmo RodriguezDuero Tempranillo judge. Lovely bright fruit Lanzaga Rioja2012 HHH aromas, with gamey TempranilloDelicious wine, with an notes and soft, earthy, 2009 HHHintense, layered flavour chocolaty flavours. A complex mix of denseprofile and interwoven €19.59 EU primary fruit, old oaktannins. Needs time. $26 maturity and fine coatingFinca La Emperatriz Bodegas Roda Sela of tannins. $66Rioja Tempranillo Rioja Tempranillo Bodegas Baigorri2012 HHH 2010 HHHH Crianza RiojaFloral nose - smells Good varietal characters Tempranilloof roses. Dark berry - very bright and lively 2007 HHHflavours, with tannins for its age, with meaty A well-developed wine,holding up body well. characters, berry fruit with mocha/caramelTime. $20 and hints of violets. Very bouquet and a zingy,Tokar Estate Yarra enjoyable drink. $55 savoury palate. $NAValley Tempranillo2012 HHH Bodegas EmilioLifted toasty characters Moro Malleolusdominate the meaty Pesquera de Dueronose. Tasty but not Tempranillo 2009overly complex. $28 HHHH A big, oaky wine. Lifted eucalypt/mocha aromas. Good concentration of red fruit flavours under the oak. Mouthcoating tannins. $107.27

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINBAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYNAME CHANGE TASTE TEST NEW LOOKFAREWELL Ross Estate. Greetings to SEPPELTSFIELD Estate is going great THERE is a new look and new vibe atHemera Estate. The 20-year-old southern guns under the leadership of wine Appellation, the award-winning Barossa ValleyBarossa winery with over 50ha of old vines, industry veteran Warren Randall, restaurant that has become a fine diningoriginally developed by Darius and Pauline and recently unveiled a new Fortified icon over the past eight years. Appellation,Ross, has a new name after a change of & Canape Tasting Experience. The at The Louise retreat, recently introduced aownership in 2012. “Hemera” is of Greek tasting costs $25 and features the more contemporary decor and new menus.origin and means “goddess of morning light”. flavours of six canapes matched to “We recognise that our guests increasinglyThis name was chosen to reflect the fact that six of Seppeltsfield’s “Solero” fortified are seeking a memorable dining experiencethe property is one of the first vineyards in the wines. The special tasting is available in a more relaxed and casual environment,district to receive the morning light. Despite 10.30am-4pm on weekdays and is where the emphasis is first and foremostthe ownership change, Alex Peel remains aimed at broadening the appeal of the on the food, the wine and the joy of a greatthe winemaker and is planning innovations. historic fortifieds made at Seppeltsfield, evening dining out with their partner or“We want to bring a stronger focus to our which dates back to 1851. The new special friends,” says owner Jim Carreker.viticulture, winemaking and overall style,” offering is just one of several tastings “Altering a winning formula may seemhe says. “Our motto is ‘a perfect balance offered at Seppeltsfield, where for a counter-intuitive; however, we are convincedbetween intensity, structure and elegance’ $5 fee visitors can sample a range of that these adaptations signal the future ofand that will be evident in all our wines. We limited-release table wines and fortifieds contemporary regional dining in Australia.”will have stronger focus on luxury wines (fee refundable on any wine purchase). The dining space at Appellation has changedand a dedication to over deliver on quality Other tours include a daily heritage to include the replacement of clothed tablesfor all our wine ranges.” The cellar door is tour for a behind-the-scenes look at the with new solid timber-tops. There is a newopen 10am-5pm seven days a week and history of the winery, a chance to taste glass art wall installation and the lighting andguided tours are offered daily between 1pm a vintage tawny from your birth year background music are now tuned to a moreand 3pm at a cost of $10 per adult, which is direct from barrel, and the Centenary lively ambience. Appellation’s executiveredeemable on purchase of wine. The tours Tour which includes a visit to Seppelt chef Ryan Edwards leads a young, dynamicincludes a walk through the vineyard and family homestead, followed by a private kitchen team which sources the best Barossawinery, and conclude with an educational tasting of super-premium fortified and South Australian produce available,wine tasting. A regional Barossa produce wines in the estate’s Trophy Cellar. The resulting in plates where the ingredients aimplatter is available to accompany tastings for tour culminates in the 1878 cellar with to tell the story of the region. The 16 dishes$20. Bookings are recommended. Hemera tastings of birth-year tawnys (direct available nightly are now all individually priced,Estate, 1516 Barossa Valley Way, Lyndoch; from barrel) and the 100-Year-Old Para allowing diners to mix and match. “The kitchenphone (08) 8524 4033. www.hemeraestate. Vintage Tawny. Visit www.seppeltsfield. team here is incredibly focused on fresh,com.au. com.au/cellar-door/tours-tastings/. locally-sourced supplies and implementing innovations that are showing through to guests,” says Edwards. The Chef’s Tasting Menu at $105 offers an amuse bouche, three savoury courses and dessert, while Barossa wine pairings remain an option. Appellation, Seppeltsfield Rd, is open nightly from 7pm. Reservations (08) 8562 4144. www.thelouise. com.au/experience/culinary/.102 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

travelbriefsSTEPPING OUT LITTLE GEM RECYCLED GARDENSIX wineries in the south of the Barossa CASA Carboni in Angaston is one of NOVOTEL Barossa Valley Resort has givenhave launched a new tourism trail known as the Barossa’s little gems. Run by chef new life to bathtubs disposed of in its recentSix Southern Steps designed to encourage Matteo Carboni and his Australian-born bathroom refurbishment by converting themtourists to take some roads less travelled. wife Fiona, it is a cafe, wine bar and into a thriving kitchen garden. “When weDomain Day, Creed Wines, TeAro Estate, cooking school rolled into one. The recently underwent an extensive bathroomSchild Estate, Linfield Road Wines and cooking school is next to the Enoteca renovation, we had the idea to turn the originalHemera Estate (formerly Ross Estate) and provides hand-on classes for groups bathtubs into a kitchen garden,” said generalhave created a trail they say is designed of up to six people using produce from manager Sarah Henderson. “We are alwaysto guide visitors through some of the best one of the Barossa’s favourite attractions, trying to think of innovative ways to make theplaces to stop in the region. “The incredibly the Barossa Farmers’ Market. The resort environmentally friendly. It has beensuccessful McMurtrie Mile in McLaren Enoteca serves Italian-style platters, a brilliant initiative and not only do guestsVale has been our inspiration,” says Henry fresh pasta and European wines by the have a brand new dining experience, theyGoodwin from Domain Day. “We could see glass, as well as a Sunday lunch using also have new contemporary bathrooms.”the Barossa was missing an opportunity to Farmers’ Market produce. The wine list Novotel Barossa Valley Resort has investedhelp visitors get the most out of their stay comprises wines from small, “natural” $2 million into refurbishing the bathrooms.and did something about it.” Six Southern wine producers in France and Italy along The contemporary facilities feature newSteps is aimed at luring visitors to the with Italian gourmet goods. This Barossa walk-in showers, floor-to-ceiling glass wallssouthern Barossa, an area which is easily newcomer was established in 2012 after and rain showers. In addition to the newmissed by weekenders if they choose to the Carbonis moved to Australia from bathrooms, the recent upgrade also includedstay in Tanunda or Nuriootpa. The trail’s Parma, northern Italy, in late 2011. “Casa poolside facilities and a new gymnasium.tagline is: “Step on to our dirt - six cellar Carboni is an extension of our house To experience the revamped rooms anddoors, six glasses”. Visitors can purchase where we welcome friends, family and sample the outputs of the kitchen garden,a trail card for $20 at a participating cellar visitors to enjoy a true Italian experience Novotel Barossa Valley Resort is offeringdoor, then visit the other wineries at their made of food, wine and being together a refurbishment special until the end ofleisure. If they spend $25 or more at each or ‘stare insieme’,” Matteo says. “We March, with rates from $152 for overnightcellar door they receive a free Spiegelau want to create an environment where we accommodation and breakfast for twowine glass at each stop. After completing exchange information, experiences and people. Weekend surcharges apply.all six visits they go into a draw to win a culture, and feed each other’s passions.”mixed dozen showcasing the best of the Enoteca is open Wednesday to Sunday Above Left: Casa Carboni entrance.region. Six Southern Steps is a self-drive from 9am to 5pm. Casa Carboni, Above Right: Novotel Barossa Valley Resort Pool.experience, there is no time limit and 67 Murray St, Angaston; phone 0415 157 669. Opposite pagebookings are not required. www.casacarboni.com.au. Left: Hemera Estate. Top: Appellation dining. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 103

126 TASTED71 AWARDEDB AROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYAn excellent response this year from arguably RIESLINGAustralia’s most well-known wine region. A very solidresult overall with the best of Barossa showing what 17 TASTEDthey’ve got. Not surprisingly shiraz continues to be the 11 AWARDEDSPARKLING OTHER A diverse class with some WHITE VARIETALS wines lean and tight in style1 TASTED & BLENDS while others were broad and1 AWARDED rich. The judges had their 7 TASTED favourites often at differentHartz Barn Wines 4 AWARDED ends of the spectrum.Black Bead Eden ValleySparkling Lagrein Some very nice examples of Bethany Eden Valley2006 HHH different wines showing ripe Riesling 2009 HHHHSmells of fruit cake, liquorice fruit and good texture with Very attractive toasty lemon/and chocolate with similar genuine varietal characters. lime bouquet and intensecharacters on the drying tannic flavoursome palate; lots ofpalate. $40 lemon acidity and ageing nicely. $32PINOT GRIS & Saltram Winemakers Peter Lehmann Portrait Grant Burge Thorn EdenPINOT GRIGIO Selection Barossa Valley Eden Valley Riesling Valley Riesling 2013 HHH Semillon 2012 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH1/2 Slightly closed nose with shy4 TASTED Very varietal, showing An attractive complexity of tropical aromas but has a fuller1 AWARDED perfect ripeness and still very tropical, citrus and floral aromas. richer style of palate. $NA fresh. Toasty lemon aromas Very long, super fine, palate Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper“Too many flat and low fruit on the nose and a zesty lift with tight citrussy flavours and Barossa Valley Rieslingwines here,” was one judge’s of green apple flavours on nice chalky and mineral-like 2013 HHHcomment. the palate. $24 elements. $18 Easy drinking style with a musky Hemera Estate Limited character to the lifted tropicalPeter Lehmann H&V Release Barossa Valley nose. Soft and rounded in theEden Valley Pinot Gris Marsanne 2013 HHHH mouth. $192013 HHH A full style with hints ofLifted ripe pear aromas and honeysuckle on the nose. Songlines Estates Bylinessteely flavours with a touch of Palate is long and round with a Eden Valley Rieslingsweetness but in balance. $22 minerally texture and nice acid 2013 HHH balance. $35 Elegant, tight, crisp and youthful fruit driven style with a nice touch of residual sugar. $25 Saltram Winemakers Tim Smith Wines McGuigan Shortlist Eden Selection Barossa Valley Eden Valley Riesling Valley Riesling 2013 HHH Fiano 2012 HHHH 2013 HHHH1/2 Tight, steely, citrus fragrances Attractive savoury bouquet Very attractive intensity of lifted and very tight, very flavoursome with slight tropical fragrances florals on the nose. Delicate well- minerally palate. $29 and quite a lengthy lemon balanced and very fresh palate The Colonial Estate curd and apple-like flavour that’s long and tight with a nicely Emissaire Barossa Valley profile. $24 focused finish. High in acid. $25 Riesling 2013 HHH Hartz Barn Wines General Sweet, fuller musky tropical Bethany Barossa Valley Store Reserve Barossa style of riesling offering pleasant Semillon 2011 HHH Valley Riesling 2013 HHHH easy drinking. $35 Flinty lift to the nose with Subtle lemon/lime aromas with slight aged characters and full spicy notes and a beautifully flavoured cut grass palate. $18 integrated crisp crunchy palate. Lovely length and structure. $25104 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

regional tastingNeil Hahn Yanyarrie Eden Atze’s CornerValley Riesling 2012 HHH John & Barb’s Old VineLifted toasty lime bouquet and Barossa Valley Grenacheshowing quite developed flavours 2012 HHH1/2with a fine acid line. $19.95 Spices and musk on the nose - rich and ripe on the palate withEagle and the Fool Barossa an abundance of red fruits andValley Riesling 2010 HHH spices. Hot finish. $45Some very nice toasted/honeyed Saltram Winemakerscharacters to the nose and Selection Barossa Valleyextremely lengthy palate. $19.95 Grenache 2012 HHH1/2 Attractive boiled lolly-likeCHARDONNAY fragrances with some nice flavours on the long soft and10 TASTED well-balanced palate. $504 AWARDEDGenerally disappointing. Some The Colonial Estatewines were overoaked or lacked Emigre Barossa Valleyfruit complexity. However the Grenache Cabernet Shirazbest wines got the mix of fruit 2011 HHHand oak just right. Lifted spicy/oaky aromas and a big tannic palate with good fruit complexity. $110Saltram Mamre Brook OTHEREden Valley Chardonnay RED VARIETALS2012 HHHHEasy drinking style with a 7 TASTEDpleasant musky character to the 4 AWARDEDlifted tropical nose and very softand rounded in the mouth. $24 “Well-made emergingR Brands The Wine varietals,” noted one judge.Eden Valley Chardonnay “Which were made to the2013 HHH1/2 capacity and the style of theFresh lifted chardonnay in the fruit. However the merlotsfloral spectrum with attractive were just tragic!”peach-like varietal fruit andsubtle use of oak. $35Saltram 1859 Eden Valley Kalleske BuckboardChardonnay 2013 HHH Barossa Valley DurifLong fine oak driven style with 2012 HHH1/2varietal fruit mixed with meaty/ A massive wine - very varietalbacon bone characters. $20 with huge amount of oak sitting on top of dark stewedGreg Norman Eden Valley fruit intensity. $24Chardonnay 2011 HHH Saltram WinemakersTight and restrained with an Selection Estateattractive ‘layered’ nose and spicy Grown Barossa Valleyoak/nectarine palate. $24.99 Sangiovese 2012 HHH1/2 Attractive nose - savouryGRENACHE and leathery with a well-& BLENDS structured red berry fruit palate and some solid6 TASTED tannins. $504 AWARDED Kalleske Fordson Barossa Valley ZinfandelA solid group as expected 2012 HHHfrom this region. Big and ripe with loads of vibrant juicy varietal fruit,Kalleske Clarry’s lifted spiciness and plenty ofBarossa Valley G.S.M. length. $242013 HHHH1/2Deep purple wine with liftedfloral/perfumed bouquet andattractive red and black fruitflavours. Lovely, fresh andvibrant palate with good lengthof chewy tannins. $19 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 105

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYKalleske Dodger Saltram Mamre Brook SHIRAZ BLENDS Hemera Estate Block 3ABarossa Valley Barossa Valley Cabernet Barossa Valley ShirazTempranillo 2012 HHH Sauvignon 2009 HHHH 4 TASTED 2012 HHHH1/2Ripe fruit aromas with Massive cabernet fruit/choc- 2 AWARDED Deep purple wine with aearthy notes. Soft in the mint aromas. Powerful oak on complexity of savoury fruitmouth - lovely savoury/ the palate but there is enough “Some nice blends that should aromas laced with someherbal flavours. $24 varietal fruit to carry it. Solid be encouraged,” said one judge. great oak. Generous deep tannic spine. $37 fruit palate - great flavourCABERNET The Colonial Estate Exile Saltram Winemakers profile with some well-handledSAUVIGNON Barossa Valley Cabernet Selection Estate Grown oak. $60 Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Barossa Valley Shiraz Atze’s Corner The14 TASTED Intensely minty on the nose Tempranillo 2012 HHH1/2 Bachelor Barossa Valley9 AWARDED which carries over to the Powerful tannic wine but Shiraz 2012 HHHHA mixed result with the best long tannic palate. Some has balance, freshness and Great depth and intensitywines showing depth of fruit and development showing. $220 brightness and good integration of berry fruit with a line ofvarietal definition rather than just Lou Miranda Estate Leone between berry fruit and spicy licorice-like characters runningbeing dry reds. The lesser wines Barossa Valley Cabernet oak. $50 through. Excellent firm tannicin this group lacked the vibrancy Sauvignon 2012 HHH backbone. $25for future ageing. Nice cabernet lift to the nose Dolan Family Barossa Grant Burge MiambaSaltram Mamre Brook and a ripe fruit palate with a Valley Shiraz Grenache Barossa Valley ShirazBarossa Valley Cabernet long drying finish. $NA Mataro 2012 HHH 2012 HHH1/2Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2 Pepperjack Barossa Easy drinking style. Good A classic Barossa shiraz withExcellent deep purple/ Valley Cabernet length of floral red fruit spicy peppery aromas and richred varietal still very fresh Sauvignon 2012 HHH characters, a lift of violets and generous full bodied black fruitwith loads of lifted intense Very varietal - all violets and savoury notes. $24 palate. $NAblackberry fruit, nice tannins, sweet blackberries with nicely Thorn-Clarke Sandpiperspicy oak and lots of acid. $37 integrated chewy tannins. $29 SHIRAZ 2012 Barossa Valley Shiraz Grant Burge Cameron 2012 HHH1/2Hemera Estate Single Vale Barossa Valley 15 TASTED Complex fruit driven style ofVineyard Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 13 AWARDED shiraz with a lifted spicy fruitCabernet Sauvignon 2011 HHH nose and a simple but intense2012 HHHH Big warm generous style with Excellent class! Great fruit palate. $19An elegant style with good nice mix of choc-mint and black consistency, with complexity, Tim Smith Wingscabernet leafiness. Nice lift of cherry characters. $NA great balance and length from a Barossa Valley Shirazspicy oak on the nose followed Kalleske Merchant good vintage for the region. 2012 HHH1/2by a flavoursome sour cherry Barossa Valley Cabernet Complex aromatic nose --like palate. $45 Sauvignon 2011 HHH Lou Miranda Estate Leone smells of orange peel, dark fruit Huge rich chocolaty nose and Barossa Valley Shiraz and classy oak. Similar flavours old-style palate with intense 2012 HHHHH matched by silky tannins. $36 fruit flavours and massive A very smart shiraz with great tannins. $28 varietal fruit drive, perfectly Langmeil Jackaman’s integrated with subtle oak Cabernet Sauvignon complexity and long firm 2010 HHH tannins and showing a nice Big pungent aromas and long touch of licorice with hints of warm varietal fruit palate with anise. $NA excellent tannin integration. $50 Pepperjack Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 A very enjoyable intense and complex wine. “Lots to like here,” said one judge. Big fruity nose and long generous fruit characters on the palate well matched with soft tannins. $29JUDGES James Godfrey Tim Dolan Troy Kalleske Chief fortified Winemaker at Peter Winemaker and co- winemaker for Treasury Lehmann since 2011. owner of Kalleske Wines. Wines (formerly Fosters Vintages in eight Previously with Southcorp Wine Group). Senior regions across the Group, including Penfolds, wine show judge on the USA, Italy and Canada. Seppelt and Lindemans. Australian National wine Worked with family to Also vintaged with Kendall shows. Member of the establish Dolan Family Jackson in California. Australian Wine Export Wines in 2007. Associate judge at the judging panel regulating Barossa Wine Show. the quality of wines sent overseas.106 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

regional tastingNew Eden Eden Valley R Brands Luchador Peter Lehmann Stonewell St Hugo Barossa ValleyShiraz 2012 HHH Barossa Valley Shiraz Barossa Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHHBig lift of red and black fruits 2011 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 Firm, ripe and balanced withlaced with smoky oak and very Oak driven style but good Inviting brooding savoury/dark lots of sweet oak but nicely infirm tannins. $NA depth of fruit and plenty of oak fruit aromas and big tannic check with the fruit. $NAMojo by RockBare derived tannins. $20 palate with lots of oak and ripe Atze’s Corner EddiesBarossa Valley Shiraz black fruits. Old school. $100 Old Vine Barossa Valley2012 HHH Wolf Blass Gold Label Shiraz 2010 HHHSolid fruit lift to the nose with Barossa Valley Shiraz Old school style - very chocolatyheaps of red fruit flavours 2011 HHH with fruit cake-like flavours andlayered with subtle oak. $18 Spicy plum bouquet and big lots of charry oak. $45Saltram 1859 Barossa solid palate with smart oak and Barossa Babe BarossaValley Shiraz 2012 HHH huge tannins. $28 Valley Shiraz 2010 HHHVery lifted sweet varietal fruit A big shiraz with some fruitbouquet and generous ripe SHIRAZ 2010 & cake-like characters and solidfruit palate with long firm OLDER oak characters. Long, soft andtannins. $20 weighty. $45Pirathon by Kalleske 21 TASTED R Brands The WineBarossa Valley Shiraz 12 AWARDED Barossa Valley Shiraz2012 HHH 2010 HHHNose has a touch of chocolate “The 2010s were an excellent Big Barossa shiraz with lotswith a hint of spice and a big group with juicy vibrant fruit of dark red fruit vibrancy andwarm tannic palate. $23 and appropriate use of oak. plenty of classy oak. $150Peter Lehmann Vineyard Generally the wines that didn’t Saltram The JournalSeries Eden Valley Shiraz score had winemaking faults Centenarian Barossa2012 HHH rather than reflecting the Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHComplex nose - lots of fruit and vintage. But the further you Rich ripe fruit cake style ofoak and a ripe fruit palate with go the more they drop off,” shiraz with some charry pencila tannic finish. $30 concluded the judge. oak. An easy drinker. $150Kalleske Greenock Wolf Blass Platinum Label Peter Lehmann Eight FORTIFIEDSBarossa Valley Shiraz Barossa Valley Shiraz Songs Barossa Valley2012 HHH 2010 HHHHH Shiraz 2010 HHH 4 TASTEDBig bold riper style loaded A huge powerful rich number A very good sweet warm red 2 AWARDEDwith meaty/smoky/cherry fruit with masses of peppery/oaky that’s full of flavour and has acharacters. $40 aromas and solid oaky palate long firm finish. $42 A couple of great fortifieds with good weight of black fruit Grant Burge Balthasar from a region which does itSHIRAZ 2011 characters and firm dense Barossa Valley Shiraz well! tannins. $190 2010 HHH16 TASTED Saltram Single Simple lolly fruit nose with Saltram Mr Pickwicks4 AWARDED Vineyard Moculta Road peppery notes and long, light, Barossa Valley Rare Barossa Valley Shiraz vibrant red fruit palate. $NA Tawny NV HHHH1/2“Not a typical year, which did 2010 HHHH1/2 Very inviting tawny with lovelynot do justice to the region,” A solid wine with the fruit, oak toffee characters and good oaksaid one judge. “The wines lack and tannins all working well complexity. Rich nutty ranciothe intensity and generosity together. Smells of chocolate aromas and loads of powerfulthat normally comes from the with some pepper and spice flavours that linger in the mouthregion. But there were still and lovely long soft fruit with a fresh drying finish. $NAsome good examples of the flavours. $90variety from the region”. Saltram No 1 Barossa Kalleske JMK Barossa Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH Valley Shiraz VintageDorrien Bin 1 Barossa Rich dark blue fruits mingle Port 2011 HHHValley Shiraz 2011 HHHH with lots of sweet oak and Intense, inviting and complexA very well-made wine with showing some nice savoury with lots of black fruits, toffeelots of upfront oaky aromas elements supported by long and licorice. $23and some vibrant blue fruit soft tannins. $90flavours on a long firm tannic Hemera Estate Tier 1palate. $NA Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2Eagle and the Fool A massive wine with black fruitBarossa Valley Shiraz nose and nice licorice lift. Lots2011 HHH going on on the palate with darkCherry fruit nose with a floral- intense blackcurrant fruit. $125like lift and soft berry palatewith a dash of pepper. $19.95 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 107

201 TASTED139 AWARDEDC H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SAn excellent tasting, with a very high strike rate. It was obvious Claire Creekthat a great deal of work has been done by winemakers and South Easternviticulturalists alike in improving the quality of the variety. Whilst Australia Chardonnaylast year the $15-$30 categories disappointed, this year the wines 2012 HHHin these groups performed well. However, across the board there Sweet lively style, withwere gems to suit all budgets! fresh honeyed characters nicely balanced by theCHARDONNAY Rawson’s Retreat acid. $4.99 Hunter’s MarlboroughUNDER $15 Barossa Chardonnay Chardonnay 2012 2013 HHH CHARDONNAY HHHHH14 TASTED Nose of fresh melon $15-$20 Lovely integration of7 AWARDED with a touch of citrus. nutty oak and stonefruit Good varietal flavours on 37 TASTED characters on the nose,“Some good drinks the simple palate. $7.99 23 AWARDED and a soft buttery palateamong these,” agreed Lindeman’s showing some residualthe judges. “These are Bin 65 Chardonnay “A good early look at sugar sweetness butgood commercial styles 2013 HHH 2013 chardonnays,” has a powerful backbonegenerally offering good Nice combo of wood said one judge. “A few of acid to carry it.value for money. Very and peach aromas, with showed the potentialfew faulty wines. The attractive honeyed fruit of the vintage while 5+ $18.90lesser wines either flavours. $8.99 some were one-lacked fruit or lacked McPherson dimensional, sacrificing Richard Hamiltonfreshness. Wines Family flavour for style in Almond Grove Vineyards South this early delivery.” McLaren ValeZilzie Selection Eastern Australia The older wines were Chardonnay 201123 Australia Chardonnay a step up with the HHHH1/2Chardonnay 2013 2013 HHH extra age offering Big, oaky and complexHHH1/2 Very approachable fuller more complexity. Very chardonnay, with yeastSimple but well-made. style, with soft creamy competitive prices! autolysis quite apparent,Subtle aromas; some melon/citrus fruit nice touch of spices,dried herb notes. characters. $10.99 Brygon Reserve Third good level of acid andMedium-bodied palate, One Road South Wheel Margaret River slightly warming finish.firm acid spine. $11 Australia Chardonnay Chardonnay 2011 2012 HHH 3-5 $15.50 A very buttery HHH chardonnay with melon/ citrus fruit, good balance, Light citrus bouquet and nice freshness. $6.99 finely structured palate. Very good value for money. 3-5 $14.99DAY 1 & 2 - JUDGESStephen Doyle Angus Seabrook Dave MatthewsWinemaker/proprietor Winemaker for Barossa Regional Chief Winemakerfor Bloodwood wines. Valley Estate. 13 years’ for Lindemans WinesAssociate judge for NSW experience in the wine in Karadoc (Victoria).shows. Topped wine industry, ranging between Previously winemaker withappreciation course at sales and production. Penfolds and Rosemount.Australian Wine Research Has vintaged in Canada, Judge at Cowra, AdelaideInstitute in 2002. Has Germany, Portugal and and Canberra wine showsconducted 26 vintages California, and has done six and last year at the Losaround Australia. Barossa vintages. Angeles wine show.108 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

varietal tasting Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Barossa Chardonnay 2013 HHH Moderately rich style with powerful acid, ripe melon fruit and some residual sugar. $19 Night Harvest Reserve Margaret River Chardonnay 2012 HHH Oak-driven nose and palate, with some melon- like fruit underneath. 3-5 $15.99Peter Yealands Brygon Reserve The Brygon Reserve pocketwatch Central Brygon ReserveHawke’s Bay Big Easy Margaret Gorgeous South Ranges Chardonnay Lovely Legs SouthChardonnay 2013 River Chardonnay 2012 HHH East AustraliaHHHH1/2 2011 HHHH Quite flinty on the nose, Chardonnay 2013Complex mealy/savoury Clean, crisp and fresh. with complexity of HHHnose, with slight leesy/ Peachy notes on the creamy, buttery flavours. Nose not giving muchcheesy elements. nose and very good away. Palate broad andGood depth of ripe fruit minerally palate. Nice 3-5 $16.99 buttery, with toastyflavours, with great fruit/oak integration. honeyed flavours. $17.99acid and excellent long, East Australia Grant Burge 5thlingering finish. $16.99 3-5 $16.99 Chardonnay 2013 Generation Australia Sidewood Stable Ballast Stone True HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2012 Hill Chardonnay Colours Currency A big, brooding HHH 2012 HHH Creek Chardonnay chardonnay, with fresh Nice perfumed lift Flavoursome, commercial 2012 HHH1/2 honeyed melon aromas to the nose and high style, with good use of Interesting marmalade/ and big, broad, toasty acid palate, with good oak to balance citrus/ orange blossom palate. 3-5 $17.99 varietal fruit flavours. melon fruit. $18 characters on the nose which flows over to the Kirrihill Wines 3-5 $17.95 Morton Estate Three buttery palate. $17 Regional Range Vineyards HawkesShingleback Kiss Me DiGiorgio Family Chardonnay Mojo by Rockbare Bay ChardonnayKate McLaren Vale Lucindale 2013 HHH South Australia 2012 HHHChardonnay 2013 Coonawarra Subtle tropical notes Chardonnay 2012 Developing tropical/HHHH Chardonnay 2012 on the nose. Nicely citrus aromas and aBig nose – smells of HHH1/2 textured, delicate, HHH soft, creamy and well-buttered toast and has A simple melon/oak minerally palate. $16 integrated palate. $18.95a lovely integration of chardonnay, with slight Subtle tropical fruitfruit and oak flowing grassy notes and fresh bouquet, with creamy Wild Oats Mudgeeon to the palate. Old- acid. Good consumer peach flavours and big Chardonnayfashioned style. $18.95 style. $18 acid finish. 3-5 $18 2012 HHH Rolling Central More Burgundian inNgatarawa Stables Ranges Chardonnay Nikau Point Reserve style, with upfront melonHawke’s Bay 2013 HHH Hawkes Bay and stonefruit, and oakyChardonnay 2012 Lovely combo of orange Chardonnay 2012 background. $18.99 blossom and fruit salad HHHHHHH with hints of golden Sweet, commercial syrup. $18.99 style, with nice varietalFirm, elegant wine, with characters of peach andlovely mineral spine, some melon. Good acid. $17.95buttery elements andhints of herbs. Good levelof acid. 3-5 $19 Geoff Cowey Ian Sheppard Morton Estate Private Senior oenologist with Group white Reserve Hawkes Bay AWRI. He has wide vintage winemaker Treasury Chardonnay 2012 experience including Estates. Commenced HHH Barossa, Sunraysia, Great with B.Seppelt in 1985. A fuller, golden wine; Western, Coonawarra, Six years winemaking peach cobbler-like fruit Tasmania, including in California. Judge at characters on nose and Burgundy, Priorat, Penedes, National & California palate. $19.95 Martinborough. Judge at wine shows. New England Wine Show. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 109

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SBarking Owl Montrose Mudgee Crossroads Grant Burge Mistletoe PokolbinPemberton Chardonnay 2012 Milestone Series Summers Adelaide Chardonnay 20122013 HHH HHHH1/2 Hawke’s Bay Hills Eden Valley HHH1/2Fresh, creamy vanilla Nose of citrus, with Chardonnay 2012 Chardonnay 2012 Brioche-like bouquet,bouquet with new subtle oak integration HHHH HHHH with vanillin notes andwood notes. Minerally and some yeast Zesty lime aromas Big and heavy; lots sweet, well-balancedpalate. Peach/melon autolysis. Palate is blended with sweet of consumer appeal. fruit palate; some greenflavours. $17.95 lively, intense and oak. Flavoursome palate Savoury bacon notes to edges. $22 long, with some lovely has lovely complexity the nose. Good peach/ Yarra View YarraCHARDONNAY mineral characters and and persistence. lime flavours. Valley Chardonnay$20-$25 fine acid backbone. 2012 HHH1/2 3-5 $20.95 3-5 $22.95 Rich, lifted honeyed37 TASTED 3-5 $22.95 Koonara Wines nose and lovely creamy,29 AWARDED DiGiorgio Family Saint Clair Premium The Marquise buttery palate. A big Coonawarra Marlborough Mt Gambier wine with plenty ofConsistent flight of Chardonnay 2011 Chardonnay 2012 Chardonnay 2012 flavour. $24.49wines with the 2012s HHHH1/2 HHHH HHHH Leconfieldperforming better than Bright, lively and Very lifted fruit nose with Rich yet lightweight, with Chardonnay 2012the early released vital. The nose is rich slight yoghurty notes. orange blossom aromas HHH1/22013s. The top wines and buttery – very Tastes of apricots with on the buttery nose and Elegant style with hintshad good integration butterscotch-like. some toastiness. Alcohol hints of golden syrup on of cut grass on noseof fruit texture and fine Seamlessly textured a tad warm. $21.50 the palate. $24.95 and light, fresh, lemon/balancing acid. “Long palate, with persistent lime flavours.and poised,” described buttered toast flavours. Greg Normanone judge. Good acid finish. Estates Eden Valley 3-5 $24.95 Chardonnay 2012 Rockbare South 3-5 $23 HHHH Australia Chardonnay Very complex and 2013 HHH Burgundian. “Meursault- Light stonefruit bouquet like,” said one judge. A and lovely fine, melon combination of grassy, palate, with seamless lime, lemon curd acid spine. $20 characters. $24.99 McPherson Wines Chapter Three Strathbogie Ranges Chardonnay 2011 HHHH Smells buttery, oaky and toasty. Palate offers a mouthful of butterscotch flavours layered with stonefruits. 3-5 $24.99Waipara Hills Goldwater Wairau Capel Vale Wine Hope PinkWaipara Valley Valley Marlborough Regional Series Awareness HunterChardonnay 2012 Chardonnay Margaret River Valley ChardonnayHHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2012 2010 HHHHVery attractive Attractive combination HHHH Full, warm style, withchardonnay, with of oak and fruit on the Rich, lush, silky aged butterscotchfreshness of apricots nose, with oak tending chardonnay, with great elements minglingon the nose showing to stand out from the balance of primary fruit with apple/pear-likea medicinal hint. fruit. Very fine, lively and and secondary characters. fruit and some sweetCantelope melon creamy peachy palate, Great flavour persistence. overtones. $20richness on the palate, with good persistence.with good minerally Fresh acid. $22 3-5 $24.95 Allandale Orangeacidity. $21.99 Chardonnay 2013 Hugo McLaren Vale HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2013 Soft, creamy integration Coola Road Single of toasty oak and Vineyard Mount HHHH Gambier Chardonnay 2013 HHH Big, oaky style – very solid peachy fruit. It’s Balanced, textured attractive with good balanced, textured and wine in the nutty melon varietal impact of melon- long. 3-5 $20 spectrum, with some like fruit, with perfect peachy sweetness. $22 acid balance. Long Paul Conti Margaret finish. 3-5 $24.50 River Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 A complexity of oaky bacon aromas, with similar characters on the tight palate. Good acid finish. $20110 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

varietal tastingDevil’s Lair The Robert Oatley Bird in Hand Two in Saddler’s Hunter SidewoodHidden Cave Signature Margaret the Bush Adelaide Valley Chardonnay ChardonnayMargaret River River Chardonnay Hills Chardonnay 2013 HHH1/2 2012 HHHChardonnay 2013 2012 HHH 2012 HHHH1/2 Lemony nose with a hint Pungent and buttery onHHH Simple spicy oak aromas Delicate, persistent of oak. Beautiful balance the nose, with a sweetBig, flavoursome, fruit- and a cheese cake-like and true to the variety. to the minerally palate. oak/fruit palate showingdriven style, with great palate; some residual Smells of melons with Great warm finish. some greenness. $25honeyed characters. sugar sweetness. $23.99 fig-like notes and someGood food wine. Bethany Barossa savoury bacon hints. 3-5 $26 David Lowe Wines Valley Chardonnay Lively savoury palate; Reserve Tumbarumba 3-5 $24.99 2011 HHH all buttery popcorn and D’Angelo Estate Chardonnay 2012 A golden wine. Sound toast. 3-5 $25 Lady OfficerBlue Pyrenees and developing nicely, Chardonnay 2012 HHHPyrenees with lovely slippery, HHH1/2Chardonnay 2012 creamy mouthfeel. Taylors Jaraman Good apricot/lime fruit, Aromas of cut hay, withHHH Clare Valley slight green edge and a lively palate exhibitingHoneyed fruit, with 3-5 $20 Chardonnay 2013 acid holding it together. solid spicy melonsavoury elements on HHHH “Tight, needs to relax.” flavours. 3-5both the nose and the CHARDONNAY Toast and peach on $25.99flavoursome palate. $25-$30 the nose and powerful 3-5 $25 peach/melon palate Mr. Riggs Cold 3-5 $20 32 TASTED that’s long, intense and K1 by Geoff Hardy Chalk Adelaide Hills 25 AWARDED has good acid spine. Chardonnay 2012 Chardonnay 2012Smithbrook A strong class exhibiting HHH1/2 HHHPemberton power and balance. 3-5 $25.50 Powerful fruit nose with Smells a little like bruisedChardonnay 2012 All that you want from hints of rose petals. Big, apples with a light, highHHH a great chardonnay at Whistling Kite rich, lemon curd flavours acid, fruit palate. $27Smells of green good mid-range prices. Biodynamic and fresh acidity.mangoes and melons. Riverland Desert HeartGood concentration of Clairault Margaret Chardonnay 2012 3-5 $28 Renaissance Centralvarietal fruit flavours. River Chardonnay HHHH Otago Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2 Oak aromas nicely McGuigan The 2012 HHH 5+ $20 Buttery and savoury on integrate with the Shortlist Adelaide Big, broad and buttery the powerful nose, with citrussy fruit. Powerful Hills Chardonnay chardonnay – someNight Harvest subtle persistence of fruit palate has some 2012 HHH1/2 sweetness and oakyMargaret River intense, lime/lemon curd nuttiness and slight Elegant, minerally style, toastiness. $28Chardonnay flavours on the palate chalky texture. $25 with peach/melon fruit2012 HHH with plenty of acid in the showing a floral edge. Matahiwi EstateLike a lime/lemon background. Firm finish. Butler Crest Long savoury finish. $28 Holly Hawke’s Baysorbet on the nose. Margaret River Chardonnay 2012Quite broad and sweet 3-5 $27 Chardonnay 2012 Brygon Reserve HHHin the mouth. $20.99 HHHH Bonaparte McLaren A powerful, old-school Some very smart Vale Chardonnay style, with a combinationWindowrie Family oak here that is 2012 HHH1/2 of savoury and honeyedReserve Cowra seamlessly integrated This wine has a subtlety aromas and flavours.Chardonnay 2012 with the lemon/citrus of apples, pears and $28.99HHH fruit characters. Good peaches, with well-Lean and austere, with level of richness. integrated oak and TarraWarra Estateattractive fresh lime yeasty notes. $29.99 Yarra Valleycharacters and good 5+ $26.99 Chardonnay 2011amount of acid. $21.25 D’Angelo Estate HHH St Huberts Yarra Lady Officer Nutty peach bouquet andBethany Barossa Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay 2011 fine, tight palate, withValley Chardonnay 2012 HHHH HHH1/2 fine fruit brightness. $252012 HHH Buttery nose with a Floral elements to theVery rich and creamy, bright citrus streak. bright melon nose. Jones Roadwith loads of fruit, oak Persistent creaminess Fleshy white peach Morningtoncomplexity and warming in the mouth with subtle palate, with upfront line Peninsulaalcohol. $22 fruit and lingering acidity. of acid. $25 Chardonnay 2011 HHHSeville Estate 3-5 $27 Spring Vale Attractive, warm, fleshyThe Barber Yarra Freycinet Coast style. Suggestion ofValley Chardonnay Carrick Bannockburn Chardonnay 2013 orange blossom and2012 HHH Chardonnay 2011 HHH nectarines. $28Subdued nose; some HHHH Big, powerful wine;interesting funky notes. A full, rich wine sitting sweet fruit, some Knee Deep MargaretPalate has lifted melon/ in the tropical spectrum. savoury aspects and River Chardonnaypeach flavours. Toasty complexity on the good acidity. Needs 2011 HHH nose; soft and fleshy in time. $25 Toasty and pungent on 3-5 $22 the mouth. $29 the nose. Slightly sweet, light bodied tropical palate. $28 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 111

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SERAVOLO.COM.AU Shottesbrooke Saint Clair Estate Single Omaka Reserve Suite 5, 143 Glynburn Road Vineyard McLaren MarlboroughAdelaide, South Australia, 5073 Vale Chardonnay Chardonnay 2012 2010 HHH HHHH1/2 [email protected] Intense, spicy oak/ A big, powerful Tel: +618 8 3364522 tropical aromas. Nutty, chardonnay, with intense creamy palate, with aromas of cedary oak, slightly hot finish. $27 melon and peach. Palate Barambah Wines is warm and slightly oily, First Grid South and seamlessly layered Burnett Chardonnay with melon, oak and 2010 HHH alcohol. $33.50 A different style, with slight candied/ butterscotch bouquet and rich, old-fashioned palate. $29 House of Cards The Royals Margaret River Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2 Nose has intense, nutty/ toasty oak layered with sweet peaches. Excellent integration between oak and fruit on the palate, with very attractive flavour profile. $32 Brygon Reserve Saint Clair Pioneer Dobler Beechworth Bonaparte McLaren Block 4 Sawcut Chardonnay 2012 Vale Chardonnay Marlborough HHHH 2011 HHH Chardonnay 2012 Powerful estery oak Honeyed nose – almost HHHH1/2 nose and well-balanced, marsanne-like, with Great colour here, oaky palate; some a light bodied palate with fresh lifted citrus complexity developing. showing botrytis fragrances and full-bodied Good acid line. $30 influence. $29.99 style of palate brimming over with juicy citrus, Tempus Two CHARDONNAY melon, nectarine flavours. Pewter Hunter $30-$35 Has finesse. $33.50 Valley Chardonnay 2013 HHHH 27 TASTED Lovely light yellow wine, 18 AWARDED with attractive peach/ melon aromas and soft A mixed bag! A high palate, with plenty of standard at one end and fruit flavour intensity. $30 a low standard at the other. Some excellent, Saint Clair Pioneer elegant styles and also Block 10 Twin richer, full-flavoured Hills Marlborough ones. At the lower end Chardonnay 2012 there was evidence of HHHH excess acid without the Warm, generous and ripe fruit to carry it. full bodied. Good spicy/ tropical/fig aromas and flavours. Lifted nose and creamy mouthfeel. $33.50112 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

varietal tasting Mount Riley 17 Willoughby Park Valley Marlborough Kalgan River Albany Chardonnay 2011 Great Southern HHHH Chardonnay Nice oak/fruit balance 2012 HHH on the attractive Subtle but complex nose. Slightly warm tropical fruit/spicy oak in the mouth, with style that’s juicy and good oak-dominant fleshy in the mouth. $30 flavours. $31.95 Indigo Secret Seville Estate Yarra Village Beechworth Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay 2012 2012 HHH1/2 HHH Stonefruits and toast Nice nutty nose, on the nose, and a with a fragrant lift of nice balance of fruit/ flowers. Warm, ripe oak flavours on a light- and flavoursome in the bodied palate. $33 mouth. $32Yarravale Reserve Saint Clair Pioneer Krondorf SymmetryChardonnay 2012 Block 11 Cell Eden ValleyHHHH Block Marlborough Chardonnay 2011Smells of lychees and Chardonnay 2012 HHHgreen apples, with oak HHH1/2 Toasty brown limeto balance. Rounded, Full, rich, peachy aromas aromas and unusualwell-textured palate with and warm, oily palate, but attractivegreenish fruit. $32 with lovely mouthfilling flavours. Almost varietal flavours. $33.50 riesling-like. $30.99Oscar’s ReserveYarra Valley Swings & CHARDONNAYChardonnay 2010 Roundabouts $35-$40HHHH Backyard StoriesLight golden wine, with Margaret River 20 TASTEDfull butterscotch aromas Chardonnay 2013 11 AWARDEDand a palate loaded with HHHtropical fruit and oak Smells of candied citrus, The judges didn’t findflavours. $32 with good varietal fruit much difference here purity on the slightly from the previous flight. lean palate. $32 “A few wines were over worked knocking out the Driftwood Artifacts fruit flavour,” noted one Margaret River judge. “It seems a lot of Chardonnay 2012 winemakers are playing HHH with styles at this level Lots of spicy, toasty oak; but not successfully!” slightly pungent tropical fruit underneath. Very Paringa Estate stylish wine. $30 Mornington Peninsula Gartelmann Sarah Chardonnay 2011 Elizabeth Hunter HHHH1/2 Valley Chardonnay A lovely flinty, nutty 2012 HHH and somewhat funky Unusual fruity nose. chardonnay, with oak- Slightly tropical, with a driven aromas and a big, sweet and nicely long and seamlessly layered palate. $30 balanced palate with great concentration of Te Kairanga fruit/oak flavours. $35 Casarina Single Vineyard Reserve Martinborough Chardonnay 2012 HHH Spicy, nutty nose and light, simple, peachy palate. Good overall acid/oak balance. $30 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 113

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SSidewood Mappinga Deep Woods Devil’s Lair Wise Eagle Bay TarraWarra EstateChardonnay 2011 Reserve Margaret Margaret River Single Vineyard Reserve Yarra ValleyHHHH1/2 River Chardonnay Chardonnay 2012 Margaret River Chardonnay 2011More melon and peach 2012 HHH HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2on the nose – quite lifted Delicate, light bodied, A fresh, fruity style, HHH1/2 Apples and pearsand fragrant. Palate is citrus fruit-dominant quite melon-like Very tropical-like fruit mingle with malosomewhat simple but has wine with high level of supported by some characters here on both characters, attractivelovely vibrancy of juicy acid. $35 attractive toasty nose and palate, with oak and crisp, cleancitrus flavours with a high oak. It’s refreshing, some pretty powerful acid. Warm finish. $50level of acidity. $35 Nepenthe Ithaca light, long and perfectly acidity. $45 Adelaide Hills balanced with lovely Toolangi BlockMcGuigan Personal Chardonnay 2012 creamy mouthfeel. Knee Deep F Yarra ValleyReserve Blackberry HHH $44.99 Limited Release Chardonnay 2011Vineyard Pokolbin Confectionery-like nose Kim's Margaret HHHH1/2Chardonnay 2013 and big, spicy palate. Spring Vale Reserve River Chardonnay Very tropical and liftedHHHH Some residual sugar but Freycinet Coast 2010 HHH1/2 on the nose – smells aNose has masses of balanced by the acid. $35 Chardonnay 2011 Juicy, layered and little like gooseberries,toasty oak mingling HHHH intense, with tropical with intense fruit flavourswith white peaches. Wise Leaf Series A nose reminiscent of and stonefruit nicely balanced by theLight bodied palate is Reserve Margaret red delicious apples characters. Quite raw oak on a richly texturedfresh, flavoursome and River Chardonnay with hints of guavas; oak, with hot finish. $45 palate. $59racy. $35 2012 HHH starting to develop. Peccavi Margaret Citrus/mandarin fruit Similar characters on Bird in Hand River ChardonnayTaylors St Andrews characters layered with the palate. $40 Adelaide Hills 2011 HHH1/2Clare Valley dusty oak and moderate Chardonnay 2012 Full, slightly developedChardonnay 2012 acidity. $35 Willoughby HHH style; balanced andHHHH Park Kalgan Quite forward. Brown juicy, with ripe tropicalLovely fragrances of CHARDONNAY Ironrock Albany lime aromas. Nice fruit peppered withhoneydew, peach and $40-$50 Great Southern balance of residual spicy notes. $52pear. Quite a sweet Chardonnay sugar and fruit. $40 Peccavi Margaretpalate that is lifted, fresh 20 TASTED 2011 HHHH River Chardonnayand easy to drink. $35 12 AWARDED Smells of honeydew Thompson Estate 2010 HHH melon; starting to Margaret River Aged, toasty bouquetWolf Blass White Despite the price not all show some nutty Chardonnay 2012 and full-bodied, off-dryLabel Special Aged these wines were good! development. More of HHH palate, with attractiveRelease Adelaide “Too many advanced the ageing characters Lifted oaky nose spicy flavours. $52Hills Chardonnay overworked wines,” said on the palate. $40 with a tropical touch.2010 HHHH the judges. However, the Lean, refreshingA nicely balanced wine. better wines had fruit and Streicker Ironstone palate showing somePeaches and melon texture and “fineness” of Block Old Vine restraint. $40lift off the nose. Fresh acid and fruit integration. Margaret Riverstonefruit palate has a Some wines showed nice Chardonnay 2011 Black Wattleracy, acid line. $35 flavour persistence and HHHH Vineyards Icon Mt tight structure. A good wine in the funky, Benson ChardonnayPiano Piano flinty style, with plenty 2011 HHHWines Sophie’s Foxeys Hangout of oak, ripe tropical fruit Simple but veryBlock Beechworth White Gates and quite hot alcohol flavoursome, with aChardonnay 2012 Mornington characters. $41 melange of lime fruit andHHH1/2 Peninsula cedary/dusty oak. $41.99A flavoursome Chardonnay 2012 Cumulus Orangelightweight, with subtle HHHHH Chardonnay 2012 CHARDONNAYnutty, toasty oak. Quite An excellent style HHH1/2 $50-$60warm and phenolic. $35 made in the Chablis Subtle lifted peachy mould. Nutty/yeasty bouquet, with nice use 5 TASTEDClairault Estate type of nose laced with of oak. Medium-bodied 5 AWARDEDMargaret River hints of melons and palate, with acid andChardonnay 2012 pears. Very fine palate, sugar in balance. $40 Small but consistentHHH1/2 with pure varietal fruit class of qualityA big, heavy wine; and lovely mineral, acid Millbrook chardonnays.needs time to settle characters. $45 Limited Releasedown. Smoky bacon Western Australia Atticus Margaretaromas and balanced Chardonnay 2012 River Chardonnayacid/fruit palate. $38 HHH1/2 2010 HHHHH A big, warm and oaky Lovely deep golden greenSaddler’s Reserve chardonnay, with chardonnay showingHunter Valley intense lime-like fruit toasty nutty aromas andChardonnay 2013 layers and warming rich, full-bodied, fleshyHHH finish. $45 palate, with attractiveLight bodied style, with layers of varietal fruitlovely purity of varietal intensity and somefruit with a touch of syrupy elements. $55residual sugar. $36114 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

varietal tastingCHARDONNAY Bird in Hand Nest Gralyn Estate Robert Oatley The$60+ Egg Adelaide Hills Reserve Margaret Pennant Margaret Chardonnay 2012 River Chardonnay River Chardonnay10 TASTED HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH 2012 HHH9 AWARDED Interesting meaty/leesy Quite a nutty nose with Powerful oak-driven characters on the nose, lovely apricot touches. chardonnay, with a“This group represents with a slight spicy lift. Zesty citrus/stonefruit toasty nose and ripealmost every state Big, fleshy and juicy in flavours, with a tight tropical palate. $70in Australia and New the mouth, with some acid backbone. $75 Pyramid ValleyZealand!” said one judge. creaminess and a tight Vineyards Field ofStrong class of well- line of acid. $85 Pyramid Valley Fire Canterburycrafted wines where cool- Sirromet Le Vineyards Lion’s Chardonnayclimate fruit was matched Sauvage The Tooth Canterbury 2011 HHHwith good winemaking. Wild Granite Belt Chardonnay 2011 A lean, well-balanced,Lots to like here! Chardonnay 2009 HHHH sweet/sour fruit HHHH1/2 Loads of interest here. style, with warmingSeville Estate A big, rich and Juicy, fleshy intensity alcohol. $120Reserve Yarra distinctive style of peach/melonValley Chardonnay smelling of toasty Jones Road Nepean varietal fruit lifts out2012 HHHH1/2 roasted nuts, with Mornington the glass and fills theVery light yellow hues multi-layers of varietal Peninsula mouth. $120with a fine, tight and fruit and well-handled Chardonnay 2012 Robert Oatley Theflinty nose. The palate oak on the palate. HHHH Pennant Margaretis long and fleshy, and Has a high level of Quite a citrussy River Chardonnaybrimming over with acidity. $119 bouquet and a light 2011 HHH1/2juicy citrus-like varietal bodied, well-balanced Dusty oak nose, withfruit, with balancing palate. Attractive some peachy notesacidity. $70 stonefruit flavours with leading to a fresh, a dash of lime. $60 zesty, citrus palate, with lots of acid. $70 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 115

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINMARLBOROUGHBACK IN BUSINESS the 60-seater restaurant, not being aligned TOP CELLAR DOORS NEARBY to a particular winery, has a complete focusRESTAURATEUR Chris Gibb is back in on food and wine. “A lot of cellar doors only TIMARA Lodge offers boutique luxury -business in Blenheim. After taking two provide their own wine,” he says. “This is and fine food - within striking distancedevastating body blows in a short space of a great opportunity to showcase the whole of some of Marlborough’s best cellartime, he has rejoined the hospitality industry region and become an independent hub for doors. The luxury lodge, which catersby opening Gibb’s On Godfrey just before the wine industry in Marlborough. But it’s food for a maximum of eight guests at oneChristmas. The original Gibbs Vineyard first, with great wine on the side – it’s the other time, is set in 240ha of pasture andRestaurant at Cairnbrae burned down in way round with wineries.” The new restaurant overlooks a delightful lake. The propertyJanuary 2011, just as business was booming. offers two different options for experiencing is home to a beautiful English-style parkA few months later his wife Heidi, a driving Marlborough produce - an a la carte menu with sweeping lawns, native and exoticforce behind the new eatery, was diagnosed and full wine list from 6pm until late and (from trees, a historic arboretum, perfumewith cancer. She died in August. Gibb’s on 4pm each day) a selection of tapas-style garden, daffodil lawn, woodland walkGodfrey is located at the old River Farm dishes designed for sharing. Al a carte main and an extensive rose garden. Spywinery near Renwick and the chef is aiming courses include the likes of a modern take Valley Vineyard is just a short stroll awayto emulate his previous eatery, which built on surf and turf - fillet of beef with crayfish to taste and indulge in award-winninga reputation as one of Marlborough’s top on porcini-flavoured linguine, asparagus wines. One of the highlights of a visit isfine dining establishments. “The food I have and jus; catch of the day or lamb rack on the fine cuisine prepared by Austrian-always been proud of, but that was only part ratatouille with a gratin of new potatoes. born host and chef Louis Schindler, whoof the story,” he told local media. “Heidi had Tapas selections include steamed clams, has worked in top-rated restaurants inan amazing rapport with people. Someone home-made sausages with Dijon mustard and Europe and more recently at Herzog’s.could arrive two years (after first visiting) and crumbed squid with saffron aoili, as well as a Schindler is also a keen hunter, tramper,she would pull their name out of the hat. She choice of cold dishes, including a charcuterie diver and fisherman who loves exploringwould almost be able to remember what they plate. There is an excellent selection of wines the countryside. His modern Europeanhad to drink.” Gibb has turned to Dutch chef by the glass featuring local standouts like menu features seafood like lobster,Sander de Wildt, who had been building his Greywacke, Dog Point, Fromm, Te Whare scallops, oysters, mussels, salmon andown reputation in Marlborough as head chef Ra and Clos Henri. Gibb’s on Godfrey, 36 fresh fish from the Marlborough Sounds.at the Brancott Estate Heritage Centre (and Godfrey Rd, Blenheim; phone +64 3 572 7989. The best of New Zealand lamb, beef andwas formerly at Amisfield in Central Otago), It is open seven days a week from 4pm. game is carefully sourced daily fromto head his kitchen brigade. The chef says www.gibbs-restaurant.co.nz. around New Zealand and vegetables and herbs are from the estate’s own garden. Timara Lodge keeps an extensive cellar of the very best locally produced vintages and specialises in the Spy Valley range. Accommodation is in two suites and two double rooms, all completely private with their own ensuite bathroom, as well as views of the grounds. The ensuite bathrooms feature Italian marble bathrooms and modern amenities and are all equipped with a hair dryer, shaver plug and heated towel rail. Bath towels, toiletries and additional towels are also provided. Wi-fi is complimentary, as is the laundry service. No children are allowed under the age of 15 to ensure peace and quiet for guests. Timara Lodge, Dog Point Rd, Marlborough; phone + 64 3 572 8276. www.timara.co.nz.116 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

travelbriefsCHAIN REACTION WORLD’S BEST GET UP CLOSERIGHT on the doorstep of Peppers MARLBOROUGH’S Brancott Estate THE Spy Valley cellar door was thePortage Marlborough Sounds is one of the Heritage Centre has been named one of winner of the Best of Wine Tourism awardlatest additions to the New Zealand Cycle the world’s best wine tourism experiences for architecture and landscapes, butTrail, the picturesque Queen Charlotte and was one of nine best of wine tourism it is loved by wine aficionados for theTrack. The Queen Charlotte Track is the winners selected from 350 applicants by opportunities it gives them to get up close21st Great Ride on the New Zealand Cycle an international jury at the Great Wine to the winemaking process. Spy Valley -Trail, a national project to build a world- Capitals Awards in Napa Valley, California. adjacent to an American satellite station,class network of predominantly off-road Centre manager Kathy Hughes says wine hence its name - is based in the Waihopaitrails that showcase the very best of New activities are an important part of what Valley in Marlborough and features anZealand’s landscape, environment, culture New Zealand has to offer international architect-designed winery and a tastingand heritage. Stefan Kracke, general visitors. “As a pioneer of wine tourism, facility with current vintage Spy Valley andmanager of Peppers Portage Marlborough we are thrilled with this latest award. It is Envoy wines. During harvest (March-April)Sounds says: “I’ve cycled the trail many a fantastic achievement by the Brancott visitors are offered the chance to tastetimes and it’s spectacular, especially Estate Heritage Centre team and testament the freshly pressed grape juice beforeat this time of the year when the trees to the quality customer experience offered fermentation. Then, throughout the year,are changing colour and dropping their to all visitors,” she says. For the third guests are given tastings of the variousleaves and there aren’t as many hikers year running Yealands Estate took home blends the winemakers are working on -and walkers around. The views over the the award for sustainable wine tourism a sneak peak at future vintages. VisitorsQueen Charlotte and Keneperu Sounds practices. The Great Wine Capitals best of are invited to take a picnic in the sunare stunning.” The 70km mountain bike wine tourism awards celebrate innovation and there is free espresso coffee forride from historic Ship’s Cove to Anakiwa and excellence in wine tourism throughout the designated driver. The Spy Valleyin the Marlborough Sounds is a Grade nine of the greatest wine regions in the cellar doors is open daily from 10.30am-4 (out of 5) ride that can be as easy or world. The Yealands Estate cellar door 4.30pm in summer (October-April) and onchallenging as you want to make it. The experience includes an educational weekdays during winter. For details seetrail can either be biked over four days, sustainability winery tour. Visitors also have www.spyvalleywine.co.nz.two days or just as day trips, bikes and the opportunity to learn first-hand about thetransfers can be booked at the resort. sustainable initiatives via a complimentary Above: Yealands Estate Winery.Peppers Portage offers plenty of post- interactive self-guided vineyard tour. A Opposite pagecycling nourishment with its pristine selection of picnic foods are available Left and Below: Brancott Estate Heritage Centre andwaterside setting and restaurant cuisine to match with Yealands Estate wines to winemaker Patrick Materman.which features a seasonal menu making complete the wine tasting experience.the most of locally sourced produce aswell as herbs from the resort’s garden.“There isn’t a shortage of fresh seafoodin the Marlborough Sounds, green lippedmussels are harvested in the bay in front ofthe resort; Keneperu Sounds is renownedfor snapper and the region is also oneof the country’s leading producers ofsauvignon blanc, a perfect complementto seafood,” says Kracke. The resortoffers guests a range of accommodationand dining options. Relax with a winein the Retro Bar or dine at either WekaRestaurant - backdropped by sweepingviews of the Marlborough Sounds - orSnapper Cafe and Bar. For full terms andconditions visit www.peppers.co.nz. March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 117

288 TASTED222 AWARDEDMARLBOROUGHAmong the highlights of the biggest New Zealand Tohu Rewa Methode Grove Mill Marlboroughregional tasting of the year - by far - were lots of Traditionnelle Sauvignon Blanc 2013aromatic, crisp and lively sauvignon blancs from 2013, Marlborough Blanc de HHHHHand rewardingly rich, opulent pinot noirs from the cool, Blancs 2011 HHHH Weighty and punchy, withlow-cropping 2012 vintage. Marlborough also underlined Fragrant, yeasty bouquet. Crisp, vibrant, concentrated melon,its great versatility with an impressive line-up of rieslings, searching palate, with citrusy, gooseberry and fresh-cut grassgewurztraminers, pinot gris (the finest yet from 2013), mealy, yeasty flavours and a flavours, and a finely balanced,chardonnays, gruner veltliners, sweet whites - and even a tight-knit, dry, lingering finish. long finish. Foley Family Wines.few impressively dense, peppery syrahs. (100 per cent chardonnay, A top buy at $20. (A, US) disgorged after 20 months onPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. lees.) $34 (A, UK, US) Petit Clos by Clos HenriWines available in export markets are shown as (A) Marlborough SauvignonAustralia, (UK) and (US). SAUVIGNON Blanc 2013 HHHHH BLANC Fleshy and concentrated, withSPARKLING Deutz Marlborough substantial body, lees-ageing Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 99 TASTED complexity, and strong, ripe,8 TASTED 2009 HHHH 85 AWARDED passionfruit/lime flavours.5 AWARDED Scented, crisp wine with Floral, full and rich. Certified strong, citrusy, nutty, slightly The exceptionally sunny, dry but organic. Great value at $20.A small class, dominated by buttery flavours, good weight not hot 2013 growing season (A, UK, US)an impressive trio under the and complexity, and a yeasty, in Marlborough yielded manyDeutz brand from Pernod Ricard long finish. $45 highly attractive sauvignonWinemakers, but also featuring Deutz Marlborough Cuvee blancs, vibrantly fruity, crisp anda well-crafted example of Rosé 2008 HHHH full-flavoured. The panel alsosparkling sauvignon blanc. Pale pink, lively, slightly sweet celebrated the excellence of style with a floral bouquet several oak-aged wines from and strawberry/spice flavours, the low-cropping 2012 vintage, showing good complexity and especially Giesen The August length. $45 and The Fuder Single Vineyard Selection Dillons Point - also from Giesen.Deutz Prestige Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Giesen The AugustMarlborough Cuvee 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough SauvignonHHHHH Blanc Bubbles 2013 HHHH Blanc 2012 HHHHHThis notably refined, rich wine Light and vivacious, with Powerful, fleshy, barrel-was blended from chardonnay good intensity of fresh fermented style with a floral(65 per cent) and pinot noir (35 melon, passionfruit and bouquet, rich, ripe fruitper cent), and disgorged after lime flavours, and a finely flavours, impressive complexitythree years on its yeast lees. balanced,appetisingly crisp, dry and a lasting finish. ClearlyWeighty and full-flavoured, finish. A top example of the oak-influenced, but balancedit is yeasty, nutty, toasty and style. $19.50 by concentrated fruit. $40 (A,complex, with a creamy texture UK, US)and a finely balanced, lingering Saint Clair Marlboroughfinish. $45 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHHHH Fleshy, generous wine from the lower Wairau Valley. Mouthfilling, with vibrant, ripe passionfruit/lime flavours and a dry, long finish. $22 (A, UK)118 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

regional tastingThe Fuder Single Vineyard Mount Riley 17 Valley Clifford Bay Marlborough Harwood HallSelection Dillons Point Marlborough Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough SauvignonMarlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 HHHH1/2 HHHH Blanc 2013 HHHHBlanc 2012 HHHHH Barrel-fermented style, full- Full-bodied regional blend, with Freshly herbaceous andGently oaked bouquet. bodied and fleshy, with strong, strong, fresh, vibrant melon/ punchy, with aromatic intensityMouthfilling, notably complex ripe, tropical fruit flavours, lime flavours, lively acidity and and very good delicacy andand tightly structured wine finely integrated oak, good a persistent finish. Top value depth of flavour. $20with very impressive weight, complexity and a dry, well- from Foley Family Wines. Mount Riley Marlboroughmouthfeel and richness. Still rounded finish. $24 (A) $14.50 (A, UK, US) Sauvignon Blanc 2013very youthful. (From Giesen.) Coopers Creek HHHH$50 (A, UK, US) VNO Marlborough Marlborough Sauvignon Full-bodied, with ripe,Babich Family Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Blanc 2013 HHHH tropical fruit flavours, aCowslip Valley HHHH1/2 Rich, tropical fruit-flavoured hint of passionfruit, goodMarlborough Sauvignon Aromatic and refined, with wine with a creamy texture and concentration and a tight, dry,Blanc 2013 HHHH1/2 impressive body and depth of a touch of complexity. Finely well-balanced finish. PricedWeighty, fleshy, Waihopai fresh, ripe tropical fruit flavours. balanced, with excellent depth. sharply. $18 (A, UK)Valley wine with concentrated, Finely balanced, rich and Great value. $18ripe, tropical fruit flavours, weighty. (From Constellation Dashwood Marlborough Peter Yealands Lowenlivened by fresh acidity, a NZ.) $22 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Alcohol Marlboroughtouch of complexity, and a well- HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2013rounded, sustained finish. $25 Babich Black Label Crisp, lively blend of Awatere HHHHBrancott Estate Letter Marlborough Sauvignon Valley and Wairau Valley fruit. Attractive, low alcohol style,Series ‘B’ Marlborough Blanc 2013 HHHH Fresh, pure and zingy, with a estate-grown in the WairauSauvignon Blanc 2013 Weighty, finely balanced, fleshy basket of fruit flavours and very Valley. Fresh and fruity, veryHHHH1/2 wine, with ripe, passionfruit- good depth, balance and weight. pure and correct, with veryConcentrated, with some like flavours, showing good A great buy at $14. (Foley Family satisfying depth of ripe fruit“sweaty armpit” aromas and concentration, and a well- Wines.) (A, UK, US) aromas and flavours. Enjoyedtightly structured, well-ripened rounded finish. $25 (A, UK, US) Esk Valley Marlborough by all judges. $19passionfruit, lime and guava Sauvignon Blanc 2013flavours. Weighty, dry and Babich Family Estates HHHH Peter Yealandsgenerous. $38 Tetley Brook Marlborough Fleshy and ripe, with good Marlborough Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2013 weight and fresh tropical Blanc 2013 HHHHThe Crossings HHHH fruit flavours, showing good Freshly aromatic, 3:1 blendMarlborough Sauvignon Grown south of the Awatere richness. $24 of Awatere Valley and WairauBlanc 2013 HHHH1/2 Valley, this is an aromatic, Valley fruit, with vibrant, greenAwatere Valley wine, fleshy fleshy, rounded wine, with Georges Michel Swan’s capsicum-like characters to theand smooth, with sweet-fruit melon, lime and capsicum Flight Marlborough fore and very good balance andcharacters, a minerally streak, flavours showing very good Sauvignon Blanc 2012 depth. $19 (A, UK)and an attractive mix of depth, and a smooth finish. $25 HHHHtropical fruit and herbaceous Excellent example of theflavours. (From Yealands.) $20 Babich Family Estates Rapaura (Wairau Valley)(A, UK, US) Wakefield Downs style, with mouthfilling body Marlborough Sauvignon and fresh, ripe, tropical fruit Blanc 2013 HHHH flavours, showing good Freshly herbaceous aromas concentration. $19 lead into a crisp, punchy Giesen The August Awatere Valley wine, with Marlborough Sauvignon a minerally streak and good Blanc 2011 HHHH intensity of gooseberry, green Fresh, creamy-textured wine, capsicum and lime flavours. with mouthfilling body and $25 (UK) very good depth of tropical fruit flavours, delicately seasoned Babich Marlborough with oak. Maturing very Sauvignon Blanc 2013 gracefully. $40 (A, UK, US) HHHH Weighty, dry wine with fresh tropical fruit - rather than herbaceous - flavours, showing excellent richness, ripeness and roundness. A very drinkable style. $22 (A, UK, US) Babich Winemakers’ Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHHH Sturdy, dry wine with strong, ripe fruit flavours, good drive through the palate, and a hint of oak-derived complexity. “Slightly semillon-like,” wrote one judge. $30 (A, US) March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 119

MARLBOROUGHRiver Farm Marlborough Sanctuary Marlborough Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Villa Maria CellarSauvignon Blanc 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough Sauvignon Selection MarlboroughHHHH HHHH Blanc 2013 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2013Mouthfilling and crisp, with Punchy, Wairau Valley “Sweaty armpit” aromas, HHHH“tomato stalk” notes and wine, with fresh citrusy and noted by all judges. Generous, Distinctly tropical fruit style,strong melon, green capsicum herbaceous flavours, vibrant, full-bodied wine with ripe, showing good weight andand lime flavours, tight and dry, finely balanced and strong. tropical fruit flavours, finely depth through the palate,lingering. $20 (Foley Family Wines.) $18 (UK) balanced, dry and rich. $31 leading to a long, dry finish. $24Saint Clair Pioneer Sherwood Estate The Fuder Single Vineyard Villa Maria ReserveBlock 2 Swamp Block Signature Family Selection Matthews Lane Clifford Bay MarlboroughMarlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2013Blanc 2013 HHHH Blanc 2013 HHHH Blanc 2012 HHHH HHHHPunchy, ripely herbaceous Full-bodied and fleshy, with Slightly oaky bouquet. Highly aromatic style, withstyle, with plenty of flesh and fresh, ripe tropical fruit flavours, Full-bodied and fleshy, with vivid, herbaceous flavours,fresh, strong, pure passionfruit/ showing good richness. Finely concentrated tropical fruit showing excellent vibrancy,lime flavours. $26 textured, with real drinkability. flavours and a hint of nuts purity and pungency. $27Saint Clair Pioneer $19 (A, UK, US) adding complexity. $50 (A, UK, Villa Maria ReserveBlock 3 43 Degrees US) Wairau ValleyMarlborough Sauvignon Spy Valley Envoy Marlborough SauvignonBlanc 2013 HHHH Marlborough Sauvignon Tinpot Hut Marlborough Blanc 2013 HHHHGenerous, weighty wine, Blanc 2011 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Classic sub-regional style, withwith fresh, crisp, tropical fruit Fleshy and full-bodied, with HHHH mouthfilling body and rich,flavours, showing excellent vibrant, ripe, tropical fruit Lively, herbaceous, medium- ripe fruit flavours. Weighty andripeness and depth. $26 (A, UK) flavours seasoned with oak, bodied wine, with intensely well-rounded. $27Saint Clair Pioneer good complexity and a dry varietal, melon and green Villa Maria SingleBlock 18 Snap Block finish. Still drinking well. One capsicum aromas and flavours. Vineyard Southern ClaysMarlborough Sauvignon judge scored it five stars. $31 Good freshness, concentration Marlborough SauvignonBlanc 2013 HHHH Starborough Family and purity. $22 (A, UK) Blanc 2013 HHHHVery fresh and lively, with Estate Marlborough Well-rounded, full-bodiedgood weight, some citrusy and Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Tohu Mugwi Reserve wine from the south side of“salty” notes, and a strong HHHH Marlborough Sauvignon the Wairau Valley. Citrus andsurge of ripe melon/lime Refined, subtle aromatics. Blanc 2012 HHHH tropical fruit flavours, ripe andflavours. $26 (US) Full-bodied, with attractive, Barrel-fermented style, with dry, with good weight. $27Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice tropical fruit and herbaceous a slightly creamy texture andMarlborough Sauvignon notes, showing good purity and good richness of tropical fruit Yealands Estate LandBlanc 2013 HHHH concentration. $22 (A) flavours. Some herbal notes, Made Series MarlboroughFresh, with tropical fruit and Stoneleigh Latitude with a toasty overlay. $30 (A, Sauvignon Blanc 2013herbaceous characters, good Marlborough Sauvignon UK, US) HHHHweight and strong passionfruit, Blanc 2013 HHHH Fleshy, with ripe, tropicalmelon and green capsicum “Sweaty armpit” aromas lead Tohu Single Vineyard fruit flavours showing goodflavours. $20 (A, US) into a sweet-fruited wine, Marlborough Sauvignon concentration. Hightly aromatic,Saint Clair Wairau Reserve with fresh, ripe, passionfruit/ Blanc 2013 HHHH with some herbaceous notesMarlborough Sauvignon lime flavours, finely balanced Freshly scented, herbaceous and good length. (80 per centBlanc 2013 HHHH and strong. A classic Rapaura Awatere Valley wine, with good Awatere Valley, 20 per centClassic Wairau Valley style, style (north side of the Wairau weight and lively melon, lime Wairau Valley. $20 (A, UK)fleshy, sweet-fruited and Valley). $28 and green capsicum flavoursgenerous, with mouthfilling that linger well. $20 (A, UK, US)body and vibrant, passionfruit/lime flavours, rounded, dry and Vavasour Awatere Valleypersistent. One judge scored it Marlborough Sauvignonfive stars. $34 (A) Blanc 2013 HHHH Classic Awatere Valley style, with strong, fresh melon, green capsicum and “tomato stalk” aromas, lively acidity, some riper, passionfruit flavours and a long finish. (Foley Family Wines.) $22 (A, UK, US)JUDGES Michael Cooper Corey Hall Simon Fell Winestate’s New Zealand editor is the Co-owner of the Gem The Auckland-based author of the internationally acclaimed and Harwood Hall winemaker for Wine Atlas of New Zealand and the brands, Corey was Thornbury Wines, annual Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s previously senior owned by Villa Maria, Guide to New Zealand Wines. In the winemaker for Matua since 2006, Simon 2004 New Year Honours, Michael Valley, and is a senior frequently judges was appointed an Officer of the New judge at competitions on competition and Zealand Order of Merit for services to in New Zealand and magazine panels. wine writing. Australia.120 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

regional tastingYealands Estate Brancott Estate Living Paua Marlborough Ara Pathway MarlboroughSingle Block M2 Land Series Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 2013Marlborough Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 HHHBlanc 2013 HHHH HHH1/2 Full-bodied, with ripe, tropical Crisp, lively and zingy, withScented, punchy, lower Wairau Indigenous yeast aromas. fruit and herbaceous flavours, fresh melon, lime and greenValley wine, with cut grass Tight, lively wine, with good some minerally notes and good capsicum aromas and someand passionfruit aromas, good fruit ripeness and a dry, length. (From Highfield.) $19 (A) generosity on the palate.weight, vigour and intensity, lingering finish. Certified Ra Nui Marlborough $19.95 (A, UK)and a finely balanced, dry organic. $29 Wairau Valley Sauvignonfinish. $28 (A, UK) Coopers Creek SV Dillons Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 Ara Select Blocks Point Marlborough Fresh, citrusy and limey, with Marlborough SauvignonYealands Estate Single Sauvignon Blanc 2013 mouthfilling body, tight acidity Blanc 2012 HHHVineyard Marlborough HHH1/2 and a dry, lingering finish. $23 Drinking well now. RipelySauvignon Blanc 2013 Slighty “sweaty” aromas, (A, UK, US) flavoured, with good delicacyHHHH leading into a mouthfilling, Stoneleigh Marlborough and depth and a smooth finish.Good immediacy, with ripely rounded wine with ripe tropical Sauvignon Blanc 2013 $26 (A, UK)herbaceous aromas and fruit flavours, fresh and strong. HHH1/2flavours, fresh and strong. $23 Fresh and lively, with good Bladen MarlboroughScented, with excellent Giesen The Brothers drive through the palate and Sauvignon Blanc 2013delicacy and depth. Estate- Marlborough Sauvignon strong, fresh melon and HHHgrown in the Awatere Valley. Blanc 2012 HHH1/2 capsicum flavours. $26 Attractive, easy-drinking wine,$25 (A, UK) Herbaceous style, with hints The Fuder Single Vineyard with fresh, ripe tropical fruit of asparagus on the nose, Selection Dillons Point and herbaceous flavours,Ara Single Estate and crisp melon and green Marlborough Sauvignon showing good depth. $21Marlborough Sauvignon capsicum flavours, fresh and Blanc 2011 HHH1/2Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 strong. $25 (A, UK, US) Complex style, with substantial Giesen OrganicMouthfilling and sweet-fruited, Konrad Marlborough body and strong citrus, tropical Marlborough Sauvignonwith fresh passionfruit and lime Sauvignon Blanc 2013 fruit and nut flavours, with a Blanc 2012 HHHflavours, showing good balance HHH1/2 dry finish. $50 (A, UK, US) Flavoursome, clearlyand depth. $22 (A, UK) Punchy, with melon, green Triplebank Awatere Valley herbaceous wine, drinking well capsicum and lime flavours, Marlborough Sauvignon now. “Interesting,” wrote oneAuntsfield Single showing good varietal character, Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 panellist. Certified organic. $20Vineyard Marlborough driven and length. $20 Slightly herbaceous style fromSauvignon Blanc 2013 Maui Marlborough the Awatere Valley, freshly Kim CrawfordHHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 scented, with lively acidity Marlborough SauvignonSubtle style, with good weight HHH1/2 and very good vigour and Blanc 2013 HHHand depth of ripe, tropical fruit Mouthfilling, with ripe depth. $27 Ripely herbaceous, mouthfillingand herbaceous flavours, a grapefruit, lime and spice Wairau River Marlborough wine, with gentle acidity, antouch of lees-ageing complexity flavours, fresh, crisp and dry. Sauvignon Blanc 2013 easy-drinking balance and goodand a dry, rounded finish. $23 (From Tiki.) $18 (A, UK) HHH1/2 freshness and weight. $23 Misty Cove Estate Punchy, ripe, passionfruit-likeAwatere River Marlborough Sauvignon aromas. Attractive wine, fresh Kono MarlboroughMarlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 and well-balanced, with plenty Sauvignon Blanc 2013Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 Full-bodied and dry wine grown of flavour and lively acidity. $20 HHHFull-bodied, ripely herbaceous at Rapaura in the Wairau Valley. Yealands Estate Single Light style from the Awaterewine, with good depth of Good depth of tropical fruit Block L5 Marlborough and Waihopai valleys, withmelon/lime flavours and a flavours in a tight, restrained Sauvignon Blanc 2013 subtle aromatics and purelengthy, dry finish. Great value style (11 per cent semillon) that HHH1/2 varietal flavours of melons,at $15. (UK, US) lingers well. $20 (A, UK) Strongly varietal style, with limes and green capsicums. Mount Fishtail herbaceous aromas, strong Fine value at $13. (A, UK, US)Babich Winemakers’ Marlborough Sauvignon melon and green capsicumReserve Marlborough Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 flavours, and a minerally streak. Misty Cove SignatureSauvignon Blanc 2012 Crisp, lively, moderately Estate-grown very close to the Marlborough SauvignonHHH1/2 herbaceous style that lingers coast in the Awatere Valley. Blanc 2013 HHHAromatic, ripely herbaceous well. Grassy notes, with a $28 (A, UK) Restrained, delicate, ripelystyle, with very good depth of hint of passionfruit, and good Yealands Estate herbaceous flavours that lingercitrusy, limey flavours and a balance and weight. (From Single Block S1 well. Finely balanced, withsubtle seasoning of oak. $30 Konrad.) $18 Marlborough Sauvignon good weight. $23 (UK)(A, US) Mount Riley Limited Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 Release Marlborough Full-bodied, with crisp, ripe, Mount Ara MarlboroughBoatshed Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2013 tropical fruit flavours, showing Sauvignon Blanc 2012Marlborough Sauvignon HHH1/2 very good vibrancy and depth. HHHBlanc 2013 HHH1/2 Weighty, with lively melon, From an elevated, inland block From Ara in the WaihopaiWeighty and finely textured, lime and green capsicum in the company’s Seaview Valley, this vibrant, medium-with strong, passionfruit-like flavours. Good vibrancy, Vineyard in the Awatere Valley. bodied wine has satisfyingflavours and a dry, smooth balance and depth. $20 $28 (A, UK, US) depth of ripe, tropical fruitfinish. From Foley Family flavours, with a dry finish. $20Wines. $A16 (Australia only.) March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 121

MARLBOROUGHRiverby Estate RIESLING Saint Clair Marlborough Grove Mill MarlboroughMarlborough Sauvignon Riesling 2013 HHHH Riesling 2013 HHHBlanc 2013 HHH 20 TASTED Fresh, punchy, medium-dry Mouthfilling and fleshy, withWeighty, ripe and dry, with 17 AWARDED style, with tangy acidity and ripe, citrusy flavours. Medium-moderate acidity and good excellent depth, delicacy and dry style, with good depth anddepth of passionfruit and lime A strong flight, in which the potential. Enjoyed by all judges. a smooth finish. $20flavours. Single-vineyard, panel found many attractively $22 (UK) Tohu Single VineyardWairau Valley wine. $21 (A, UK) scented, richly flavoured wines, Marlborough RieslingSaint Clair Pioneer ranging in style from dry to Spy Valley Marlborough 2013 HHH Block 1 Foundation medium-sweet. Riesling 2013 HHHH Floral, youthful wine withMarlborough Sauvignon Fragrant, citrusy bouquet, with citrusy, limey flavours and aBlanc 2013 HHH Riverby Estate Eliza hints of sherbet and honey. slightly sweet finish. Fresh,Fleshy and dry, with good Marlborough Riesling Strong lemony flavours, with a crisp and finely balanced. $22weight, fresh, ripe, passionfruit- 2012 HHHHH slightly oily texture and finely (A, UK, US)like flavours and a rounded Rich, floral, slightly honeyed balanced, off-dry finish. $24 Villa Maria Private Binfinish. $26 bouquet. Medium-sweet style, Riverby Estate Marlborough Dry RieslingSaint Clair Pioneer Block with lovely concentration of Marlborough Riesling 2013 HHH20 Cash Block Marlborough vibrant, ripe, peach and apricot 2012 HHH1/2 Dryish style, with goodSauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH flavours, showing a gentle Mouthfilling, citrusy, appley, weight, balanced acidity andCrisp and dry, with citrusy, botrytis influence. Delicious fully dry style, showing good very satisfying depth of fresh,limey flavours. Subtle, drinking now onwards. $27 (A, harmony and length. An ideal citrusy, limey flavours. $22restrained style, with good UK) “food” wine. $21 (A, UK) Yealands Estate Singlebalance and depth. $26 Tinpot Hut Turner Vineyard MarlboroughSpy Valley Marlborough Saint Clair Pioneer Block Vineyard Marlborough Riesling 2012 HHHSauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH 9 Big John Marlborough Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 Full-bodied Awatere Valley wine,Tightly structured and dry, with Riesling 2012 HHHHH Fresh, slightly sweet wine, with dryish, citrusy, slightlycitrus fruit, lime and green Light, crisp, medium-sweet with racy acidity and very good appley flavours and an easy-capsicum flavours, a minerally style, with intense, citrusy, depth of fresh, lemony, appley drinking balance. $25 (A, UKstreak and good depth. $21 limey flavours, fresh and flavours. Lots of drink-youngVilla Maria Private Bin vivacious. Very refined, with appeal. $25 (A, UK) PINOT GRISMarlborough Sauvignon lovely balance and length. $25 Villa Maria CellarBlanc 2013 HHH Selection Marlborough 40 TASTEDFresh and finely balanced, with Soho Maren Marlborough Dry Riesling 2013 HHHH 30 AWARDEDlively tropical fruit flavours, a Riesling 2013 HHHH1/2 Floral and full-bodied, with A strong class. The sunny, dryherbal undercurrent and a dry, Full-bodied, gently sweet good intensity of lemon, lime but not hot 2013 vintage hassmooth finish. $22 style, with a floral bouquet and and slight passionfruit flavours, yielded the region’s finest pinotVilla Maria Single Vineyard excellent drive, and intensity and a crisp, dryish, lingering gris to date, with many of theTaylors Pass Marlborough of fresh, pure, citrusy, limey finish. $24 wines showing good aromaticSauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH flavours. Finely balanced and Stoneleigh Marlborough intensity and depth of pureFleshy, with ripe, citrusy, limey still very youthful. $27 (A) Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 lychee and spice flavours.flavours and a dry finish. Subtle, Generous, with crisp, slightlydelicate wine, with reasonable Babich Family Estates sweet lemon/lime flavours, Wairau River Marlboroughconcentration. $27 Cowslip Valley fresh and finely balanced. Well Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH1/2Yealands Estate Reserve Marlborough Riesling worth cellaring. $26 Creamy bouquet, with a slightlyMarlborough Sauvignon 2012 HHHH Bladen Marlborough oily texture. Rich, peachy, spicyBlanc 2012 HHH Fleshy, dryish style with good Riesling 2013 HHH flavours, showing a touch ofHerbaceous style, estate-grown weight and richness of peach, Floral, dryish wine, fresh and complexity (10 per cent barrel-in the Awatere Valley and 30 per lemon and lime flavours and a finely balanced. Citrusy, limey fermented), and a well-roundedcent barrel-aged. Full-flavoured, lengthy finish. $25 (UK, US) flavours, with lively acidity and finish. Rated highly by alltightly structured and lively. $30 good weight. $21 judges. $25(A, UK, US) Fromm Riesling Spatlese 2013 HHHH Scented and light-bodied, with finely balanced, gently sweet, citrusy, appley flavours. Vivacious, with drink-young appeal. $35 (A, UK) Highfield Marlborough Riesling 2012 HHHH Slightly honeyed bouquet. Distinctly medium style, with fresh, pure lemon, lime and slight passionfruit flavours, lively acidity and good intensity. $21 (A, UK, US)122 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014

regional tastingClifford Bay Marlborough Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Gem Marlborough Pinot Giesen Marlborough PinotPinot Gris 2013 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Gris Gris 2009 HHH1/2 Gris 2013 HHHTight, elegant, youthful wine, full- 2013 HHHH Maturing gracefully, with a Easy-drinking style, with freshbodied, with rich, ripe stonefruit Rich, weighty, finely textured slightly toasty bouquet. Full- pear and lychee flavours, well-flavours and a finely poised, Alsace style, with excellent depth bodied and fleshy, with ripe, defined varietal characters and adryish, long finish. Wonderful of ripe, peachy, gently spicy, stonefruit flavours, a slightly well-balanced, off-dry finish. $19value at $15. (Foley Family slightly sweet flavours. $31 creamy texture and an off-dry (A, UK, US)Wines.) (A) Villa Maria Single Vineyard finish. $28 Stoneleigh LatitudeAra Select Blocks Seddon Marlborough Pinot Gibson Bridge Reserve Marlborough Pinot GrisMarlborough Pinot Gris Gris 2013 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 HHH2012 HHHH Elegant Awatere Valley wine, 2013 HHH1/2 Mouthfilling, with good depthScented, citrusy, slightly with fresh, concentrated, slightly Scented, with pure pear, lychee of fresh, pure peach, citrus fruitappley and spicy flavours in sweet citrusy, peachy, spicy and spice flavours, showing very and spice flavours and a dryishan elegant, creamy-textured, flavours, a slightly oily texture good delicacy and depth, and a finish. $28medium-dry style that lingers and a long finish. $32 dryish finish. $30 Tiki Single Vineyardwell. $26 (A, UK) Yealands Estate Single Peter Yealands Marlborough Pinot GrisMount Riley Marlborough Block R6 Marlborough Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 HHHPinot Gris 2013 HHHH Pinot Gris 2012 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 Lightly aromatic, fleshy, off-dryFleshy, with good weight and Floral, slightly honeyed bouquet. Fleshy, Awatere Valley wine, style, with fresh, gentle pear,depth of fresh, slightly sweet Fleshy, ripe and soft, with with good depth of vibrant lychee and spice flavours. $25pear and lychee flavours. Finely concentrated, citrusy flavours and peach, lemon and pear flavours Tohu Awatere Valley Pinottextured and floral. $18 (A) satisfying weight. $28 (A, UK) and a dryish finish. $19 (A, UK) Gris 2013 HHHSanctuary Marlborough Ara Single Estate Saint Clair Godfrey’s Creek Weighty, fleshy wine, with aPinot Gris 2013 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Gris Reserve Marlborough Pinot sliver of sweetness and goodFloral and mouthfilling, with a 2013 HHH1/2 Gris 2012 HHH1/2 depth of fresh, ripe peach andsliver of sweetness and good Very pale pink. Mouthfilling, Perfumed, mouthfilling and pear flavours. $22 (A, UK, US)texture and richness of fresh, off-dry style with peachy, spicy dry, with citrusy flavours, freshpeachy, citrusy flavours. Great flavours showing a touch of acidity, a slightly creamy texture GEWURZTRAMINERvalue. (Foley Family Wines.) $18 complexity and good depth. $22 and good length. $26 (A, UK) Tinpot Hut Marlborough 9 TASTEDSpy Valley Marlborough Awatere River Awatere Pinot Gris 2013 HHH1/2 8 AWARDEDPinot Gris 2013 HHHH Valley Marlborough Pinot Dry style, with a slightly creamyFleshy and finely textured, with Gris 2011 HHH1/2 texture and good depth of pear, A small but highly impressiveconcentrated, ripe stonefruit Still fresh, medium-bodied wine, lychee and spice flavours that class, demonstrating thatflavours and an off-dry, slightly with citrusy, appley flavours linger well. $22 (A, UK) Marlborough is now Newcreamy finish. $24 and a dry, finely balanced finish. Tupari Awatere Valley Zealand’s top region forStarborough Family Estate Good value at $16. (UK) Marlborough Pinot Gris gewurztraminer.Marlborough Pinot Gris Babich Black Label 2013 HHH1/22013 HHHH Marlborough Pinot Gris Fresh and lively, with off-dry Brancott Estate LetterMouthfilling, with fresh, strong 2013 HHH1/2 pear, lychee and spice flavours, Series P Marlboroughstonefruit, lychee and pear Full-bodied, with strong, ripe, showing very good purity and Gewurztraminer 2012flavours in a finely balanced, stonefruit flavours and a slightly depth. $25 HHHHHmedium-dry style that lingers oily texture. Slightly sweet, with Yealands Estate Single Fleshy, weighty and rich, withwell. $22 good length. $25 (A) Vineyard Marlborough an intensely aromatic bouquetStoneleigh Marlborough Brancott Estate Letter Pinot Gris 2012 HHH1/2 of rose petal, spice and ginger, aPinot Gris 2013 HHHH Series F Marlborough Pinot Full-bodied, slightly creamy style hint of honey, and concentrated,Attractively floral, strongly Gris 2012 HHH1/2 from the Awatere Valley, with gently sweet, apricot and spicevarietal wine, with excellent Mouthfilling, slightly sweet style strong, ripe stonefruit flavours, flavours. “Yum,” wrote onedelicacy and depth of pear and with fresh, vibrant pear and showing a touch of complexity. judge. $38spice flavours, slightly sweet and lychee flavours, revealing very $25 (A, UK) Mount Riley Marlboroughsmooth. $26 good balance and depth. $38 Babich Marlborough Pinot Gewurztraminer 2013 Brancott Estate Living Gris 2013 HHH HHHHH Land Series Marlborough Mouthfilling, dry style, with Exotically perfumed. Weighty Pinot Gris 2013 HHH1/2 moderate acidity and good depth and well-rounded, with very Flavoursome, citrusy, appley, of fresh, peachy, slightly spicy ripe, gently sweet lychee and slightly spicy wine, with a dryish flavours. $22 (A, UK) spice flavours, showing lovely feel and very good balance and Dashwood Marlborough delicacy, harmony and length. length. $29 Pinot Gris 2013 HHH A top buy at $18. Brancott Estate Special Mouthfilling, dryish style, with Reserve Marlborough Pinot citrusy, slightly appley flavours, Gris 2013 HHH1/2 good weight and a slightly Skilfully balanced, with very good creamy finish. Priced sharply. body and depth of fresh, slightly (Foley Family Wines.) $14 (A) sweet lychee, pear, ginger and spice flavours. $29 March/April 2014 W I N E S TAT E 123

MARLBOROUGHBladen Marlborough Fromm Clayvin Vineyard Saint Clair Pioneer Stoneleigh LatitudeGewurztraminer 2013 Marlborough Chardonnay Block 11 Cell Block Marlborough ChardonnayHHHH1/2 2010 HHHH Marlborough Chardonnay 2012 HHHIntensely varietal, with rich Youthful, refined wine, with a 2012 HHHH Mouthfilling, with peachy,stonefruit and spice aromas nutty, complex bouquet, sweet Slightly nutty bouquet. citrusy, slightly buttery flavours,and flavours, and hints of rose fruit characters and vibrant, Youthful, fleshy wine, with a subtle oak influence and goodpetal and Turkish Delight. Finely rich, citrusy, slightly nutty strong, ripe fruit flavours, depth. $28balanced, concentrated and flavours. Still unfolding. $68 (A, seasoned with toasty oakweighty. $25 UK, US) (barrel-fermented, 100 per cent Stoneleigh Marlborough Fromm La Strada new), and a finely textured, Chardonnay 2013 HHHGrove Mill Marlborough Marlborough Chardonnay slightly creamy, lengthy finish. Mouthfilling and creamy-Gewurztraminer 2013 2011 HHHH $31 textured, with fresh, citrusy,HHHH Refined, youthful wine with The Fuder Single Vineyard spicy flavours, showing a touchFleshy, medium-dry style with rich, citrusy, slightly spicy Selection Clayvin of complexity. $26mouthfilling body, a slightly oily flavours, a light seasoning of Chardonnay 2011 HHHHtexture and strong, peachy, spicy oak and a creamy-textured, Complex bouquet. Weighty, Stoneleigh Rapaura Seriesflavours. (Foley Family Wines.) $20 lengthy finish. Still developing. with concentrated, grapefruit- Marlborough Chardonnay $37 (A, UK, US) like flavours, mealy, nutty and 2012 HHHSaint Clair Godfrey’s Creek Mount Riley 17 Valley rich, and very finely integrated Finely balanced, withReserve Marlborough Marlborough Chardonnay oak (fermented and matured in mouthfilling body, a creamyGewurztraminer 2013 2012 HHHH 1000-litre German oak barrels. texture and fresh, citrusy,HHHH Fleshy, with strong, ripe, (From Giesen.) $60 (A, UK, US) appley, slightly mealy flavours.Perfumed, with excellent weight stonefruit flavours, seasoned The Fuder Single Vineyard $31and depth of fresh, delicate pear, with nutty oak, good Selection Dog Point Roadlychee and spice flavours, slightly complexity and a finely Chardonnay 2012 HHHH The Fuder Single Vineyardsweet and well-rounded. $28 balanced, long finish. $32 (A) Pale gold, with a complex Selection Clayvin Saint Clair Omaka bouquet. Weighty and fleshy, Chardonnay 2012 HHHGibson Bridge Reserve Marlborough with concentrated stonefruit Weighty and slightly creamy,Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay 2012 HHHH flavours, buttery notes and with fresh, ripe fruit flavours,Gewurztraminer 2013 Mouthfilling, rich, peachy, strong personality. (From integrated oak and mealy notesHHH1/2 toasty wine (handled in Giesen.) $60 (A, UK, US) adding complexity. (FromPoised, medium-dry style, with American oak, 50 per Auntsfield Single Giesen.) $60 (A, UK, US)vibrant pear and lychee flavours, cent new), showing good Vineyard Southern Valleyshints of rose petals and apricot, complexity. One judge thought Marlborough Chardonnay Toi Toi Marlboroughand very good depth. $28 that “toasty oak dominates”; 2011 HHH1/2 Unoaked Chardonnay another praised its “well- Subtle, restrained style, with 2012 HHHSaint Clair Pioneer Block managed oak and complexity”. vibrant, citrusy flavours, a Tight, minerally style, with12 Lone Gum Marlborough $34 (A) gentle oak influence, lively good depth of citrusy, appleyGewurztraminer 2012 Saint Clair Pioneer Block acidity and a lengthy finish. $34 flavours woven with fresh,HHH1/2 4 Sawcut Marlborough Ra Nui Marlborough lively acidity. $17 (UK)Subtle aromatics. Fleshy, Chardonnay 2012 HHHH Wairau Valley Chardonnaymedium style, with ripe Floral, sweet-fruited wine from 2011 HHH1/2 Villa Maria Reservestonefruit flavours and a soft, the Ure Valley. Vibrant, citrusy Citrusy, with good drive Marlborough Chardonnayrounded finish. $25 (UK) flavours to the fore, with a through the palate, a subtle oak 2012 HHH gentle seasoning of toasty influence and a finely balanced, Pale, vibrant wine, tight andYealands Estate Single oak (barrel-fermented, 20 per creamy-smooth finish. $30 (A, elegant, with some spicy,Vineyard Awatere cent new) and mealy, creamy UK) mealy complexity, but lacking aValley Marlborough notes adding complexity. Very Giesen The Brothers bit of weight and richness. $32Gewurztraminer 2013 HHH elegant. $31 Marlborough ChardonnayMouthfilling and slightly creamy, Saint Clair Pioneer Block 2012 HHH GRUNERwith good depth of fresh, 10 Twin Hills Marlborough Pale gold. Full-bodied, peachy VELTLINERwell-balanced lychee and spice Chardonnay 2012 HHHH and spicy, with plenty offlavours. $25 (A, UK) Fragrant and mouthfilling, with flavour, slightly toasty and 6 TASTED rich, peachy, citrusy flavours, honeyed notes, and some 5 AWARDEDCHARDONNAY seasoned with nutty, spicy development showing. $30 (A, oak (French, 50 per cent new), UK, US) A small but rewarding class,24 TASTED firm acid spine and good Riverby Estate underlining Marlborough’s19 AWARDED complexity. $31 (UK) Marlborough Chardonnay fast-growing reputation for 2011 HHH aromatic varieties.A strong class with a stimulating Full-bodied and finely balanced,diversity of styles, from elegant, with ripe, tropical fruit flavours, Saint Clair Marlboroughfruit-focused wines to “full-on”, integrated oak and a rounded Gruner Veltliner 2012rich, more oak-influenced models. finish. $27 (A, UK) HHHHHThe youthfulness of the top wines Full of personality. Fleshy,from 2010 and 2011 suggests rounded wine, partly oak-aged,these cool-climate chardonnays with a powerful surge of peach,are well worth cellaring. apricot, spice and nut flavours and a dry finish. Maturing very gracefully. Great value at $22.124 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2014