Winestate Magazine May June 2019

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE Best of the West 201tasted HIS OWN MAN WA PIONEER FORGES OWN PATH McLaren Vale, &Langhorne Creek Fleurieu 229 tasted May/June 2019 Vol 42 Issue 3 ON THE RIGHT TRACK $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 From thoroughbreds to fine wine US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Best of the West • McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu North Island (Gisborne, Auckland & Northland) NZ • Wines of NSW



Where it all began... Schubert Estate is located on some of the most sought-after pieces of dirt in the Barossa Valley - a special patch of five blocks terroir in Marananga in the Western Barossa. “The vines grow on red-brown loam over clay, ironstone and shale on a slightly elevated ridge of about 300 metres.” The terroir of the vineyard site leads to a strong expression of Barossa Valley Shiraz - wines that are opulent, concentrated and rich, packed with black fruit, chocolate and licorice aromas, expressive tannins and structured for aging. The wines have won many international awards. Today Schubert Estate has a “Five Star” rating for its Sentinel brand in Winestate magazine’s World’s Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge 2018. The flagship wines - The Goose-yard Block Shiraz and The Gander Reserve Shiraz also regularly receive high scores. www Discover our wines at: Adelaide City Cellar Door Open weekdays 9.00am - 5.00pm 26 Kensington Road, Rose Park SA 5067 Phone 08 8431 1457 Barossa Valley Cellar Door Open Thursday to Sunday, 10.00am - 4.30pm 261 Roennfeldt Road, Marananga SA 5055 Phone 08 8431 1457 www.schubertestate.com

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NO.295 MAY/JUNE 2019 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely Yorke Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Peninsula NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Manager E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Sophia Clements E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Mr Philippe Marquezy - Espace Quadri Phone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466 Web: www.espacequadri.com Email: [email protected] DISTRIBUTORS Australia Cellar Door and Function Centre Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd Open 7 days 10am-5pm International DAI Rubicon Lizard Park Drive, South Kilkerran Phone 8834 1258 WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. [email protected] Copyright2019byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwhole barleystackswines.com or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 7

contents MAY/JUNE 2019 FEATURES 30 30 THOROUGHBREDS ON THE R E G U L A R S RIGHT TRACK For those au fait with the equine racing 12 Briefs scene, the name of Gooree Park 20 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW will be all too familiar as it is home 22 European Report with Sally Easton to one of Australia's premier horse 24 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley studs, however what may surprise some is that is also home to some of 26 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King 28 Australia's equally fine thoroughbred 36 Grapevine wines, writes Hugo McNeill. Located 42 Wine Words 28 HIS OWN MAN in the spectacular Mudgee wine After being warned off accepting region, its namesake wines (such 44 Wine Investment & Collecting a position as winemaking and viticulture adviser to the WA as Desert War, Don Eduardo and 114 Aftertaste wine industry back in 1972, Mike Crowned Glory) are as well-bred as Zekulich is happy to report that renowned scientist, Tony Devitt, any of its champion horses. ignored the naysayers and did not only enter this arena, but thrived in I’m PRO- 100 New Releases it! Founder of Ashbrook Estate, Tony secco 110 Best Value Buys under $20 has been instrumental in bringing several high calibre conferences to W I N E TAST I N G S WA, representing the wine industry on various development boards, 50 Best of the West lecturing and judging on the show circuit and being the award 114 62 Wines of NSW recipient of the Jack Mann Memorial Medal for his industry services. 114 PROSECCO AT THE PINNACLE 74 McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, It seems like the sparkling wine Fleurieu & Surrounds 8 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019 debate continues to bubble away, 90 North Island, NZ writes Elisabeth King. The French are fighting back hard to maintain their 93 Michael Cooper's Recent Releases hold on this lucrative market since the ever-popular prosecco has started to chip away at their bottom line. It seems that more and more people want fizz as an everyday consumable and not just for when the odd special occasion pops up. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 295 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au May/June 2019 Cover photograph Paul Grecaud

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editorial PROVENANCE IS THE WORD! Every ten years or so a new buzzword appears in the wine industry, usually in a promotional sense. In the eighties we had “cold soak” a term relating to extending the fermentation period of wine on grape skins to provide additional savoury characters. For cool climate areas like Coonawarra that wasn’t a problem as rough and rugged Doug Bowen pointed out. “I call it just trying to get the f*#king ferment to start,” he said to me when I asked what it was all about. Then in the nineties we had the “wine is made in the vineyard” catch cry which kind of makes sense when you think about it. In the noughties prominent winemaker Brian Croser coined the phrase “dead fruit” referring to excessively ripe fruit, being lifeless and not desirable. Now we have the word “provenance” being bandied around, perhaps in answer to the massive rise of small label brands in this ever fragmented marketplace and the associated buzz that these newcomers have generated. Established wineries that had it easy with their place in the sun are now feeling threatened by this competition coming from all corners. To counter this there is more emphasis on telling the story of the history of the winery, the ownership and the philosophies involved. The idea is to set themselves apart from the rest, a kind of \"Hey, we were here first!\" statement. The French have been doing it successfully for generations, often creating an image surpassing the quality of the wines. One definition put forward says Provenance is; “a record of ownership of a work of art or an antique, used as a guide to authenticity or quality.” In general this can be a good thing and if it involved additional marketing to build the brand, and the Industry, it could be a great thing. Australian and New Zealand wineries have often been accused in the past of having a tall poppy syndrome, not wanting to shout their achievements from the rooftops and indeed some outspoken identities have been turned into industry pariahs for doing just this. We should be celebrating our collective history, rather than just coining a catchphrase that seems to have more to do with segregation and positioning. In my view provenance should not equal privilege. As with most good things there is often a catch. The problem is that we have been told that both a magazine and a regional wine show who purport to judge wines blind, are apparently being told which wines have “provenance” before the final scores are given by the judges. Now I can’t imagine that the scores are going to go down after this, can you? It is like judging wines where you can see the label. I don’t care who you are you will be influenced. Very dodgy! It does ensure that these wine of “provenance” will enter these competitions and get good scores. Consumers and trade are impressed. Everyone is happy. Let’s look at this from a competitive sporting point of view. Can you imagine if someone said that Collingwood or the New Zealand Blues should be granted a place in the finals each year because of their “provenance”? You would be laughed out of the park! Don’t get me wrong I am all for building history and culture, but not for companies resting on their laurels because of previous status, or getting a leg up in unfair ways. Yes, they might feel that they have earned their place after all of these years and should be above having their wines independently reviewed but does that mean they should automatically be given an easier ride? We all have to perform in our own lives, again and again and be held accountable. So should they! For this issue I am very pleased to report that we have many excellent wines to recommend to you, some from well established names and some from new trailblazers. Continue to try these and you may find your next favourite wine. The standard was very high and although we are the toughest amongst wine judges, wineries have worked out that they have to send us quality wines. As we continue to say “if you have won an award with Winestate you have honestly earned it.” Lots to try and lots to like. Cheers, Your wine, our ports. Peter Simic Australia Export Customer Service Major Sponsors and Supporters 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs PUSH FOR MORE WOMEN ANOTHER PHYLLOXERA OUTBREAK THE Australian wine community now has a Diversity and Equality THE deadly phylloxera vine louse which was first detected and In Wine Charter which all grape and wine producers are being quarantined in the heart of the Yarra Valley in 2006 has now been encouraged to sign on to. discovered to the east in the St Andrews sub-region. The aim of the charter is to create an inclusive industry where all The phylloxera strain found at the unnamed St Andrews vineyard participants can contribute to their full potential and receive equal has been confirmed as the same found in 2006. “This latest pay for equal work. At present, women working in the Australian phylloxera outbreak in Victoria is a concerning development,” said wine industry are among the most disadvantaged. “We know Vinehealth Australia chief executive Inca Pearce. “It highlights the we have around 50-50 representation of female/male graduates critical role that industry must play in preventing further spread.” from university courses in winemaking and viticulture,” said Tony Battaglene, chief executive of the newly-formed Australian Grape Phylloxera is a tiny, root-feeding aphid that destroys the roots and Wine Inc, an amalgamation of the Winemakers’ Federation of of grapevines. It was responsible for the near destruction of the French industry in the 1860s. It arrived in Australia in 1877 and Australia and Australian Vignerons. had a similarly disastrous effect on Victorian vineyards before “But there are approximately only 10 per an antidote was discovered - American rootstock. The aphid is regarded as the wine industry’s greatest biosecurity risk and cent of females in leadership roles within the Victorian wine producers must follow strict protocols in order for sector, so we have a bit of work to create the aphid not to spread further, especially when moving grapes, balance in this space. “Balance is not a juice and machinery out of affected regions. women’s issue, it’s a business issue. “We believe that all participants across the entire FIRE VICTIM BLAMES GOVERNMENT value chain should adopt the principles in the charter because it is the right thing to do and, THE devastating Victorian bushfires of early March have left one on top of that, it makes good business sense.” West Gippsland wine producer, who lost everything in the fires, seeking answers. For further information on the charter and how to become a signatory visit www. Andrew Clarke lived in Tonimbuk which was all but wiped off the wfa.org.au. map in the fires of March 3. His Jinks Creek Winery, cellar door, wine bar and vineyard were destroyed together with his family’s house and CASH CRISIS AVERTED horse stables. Clarke, who founded the 3.2ha vineyard in 1980, was forced to flee with his wife and children, and watched his life’s work go ONE of Australia’s biggest wine companies, McWilliam’s Wines, up in flames on television while seeking shelter after being evacuated. has been forced to seek a capital injection following what it called The 60-year-old vigneron, who is unsure whether he will replant his “cash flow challenges”. vineyard, has been highly critical of the Victorian Government’s fuel reduction policy, saying his property might have been spared if Forest The seventh largest wine producer received $16 million in Fire Management Victoria had listened to his repeated pleas to burn recapitalisation in January from fund manager Laguna Bay sections of the state forest that abut his property. and West Australian businessman Peter Fogarty of The Fogarty Group, owner of Evans & Tate, Deep Woods, Smithbrook and Victorian Emergency Management Commissioner Andrew Crisp Lake’s Folly. McWilliam’s under new chief executive David Pitt told the ABC it was not clear that planned burns would have helped promises to embark on a business course that will trim $10 million save Jinks Creek Winery. “Planned burns aren’t necessarily the in operational costs, concentrate on higher quality wines and panacea,” he said suggesting that other factors such as a record build stronger export markets, particularly in China. low rainfall also played a part. Some McWilliam’s wine brands are also expected to go as PINOT A FIRST FLEETER? Pitt prunes and trims the business to fit into a more consumer- focused model. THE pinot noir grape has a long history in Australia, possibly longer than most historians and wine lovers realise. It has commonly been held that James Busby, called the father of the Australian wine industry who brought in vine stock from France and Spain in 1832, was the first to bring pinot noir into Australia. However, there is evidence to suggest that it may have arrived in this country earlier, possibly with the First Fleet. Extensive research on the origins of pinot noir in this country was presented by Andrew Caillard, MW, at the recent Pinot Australia Celebration on the Mornington Peninsula. “Early colonists saw viticulture and wine making as a civilising effect on a wild country,” he said, 12 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

briefs and therefore were keen from the start of settlement to establish vineyards and the winery. By staying open later, this also means vineyards. According to Caillard, pinot noir or small black cluster we will be the last stop for many on their visit to the Barossa. as it was known in the 18th century was a “common, cottage wall garden variety” in England, and widely available at the time. “We are open until after sunset so when all of the other cellar doors are closing, ours provides another option. He believes that it may have arrived here on the First Fleet and cites the diaries of Captain-Lieutenant Watkin Tench, who travelled People can buy a glass of wine and a platter made from local with Arthur Phillip on the First Fleet, as evidence. “He wrote in his produce and sit on the balcony overlooking the original old 1912 diaries on the 24th of January, 1791, ‘Two bunches of grapes were vineyard while the sun descends over the valley.” cut in the governor’s garden from cuttings of vines brought three years before from the Cape of Good Hope’.” Atze’s Corner is at 415 Research Rd, Nuriootpa, and is open Friday and Saturday 1pm-sunset and Sundays and public holidays Small black cluster or pinot noir was a highly regarded grape in noon-5.30pm. Visit www.atzes.com. the late 1700s and 1800s due to its resistance to disease, and it is not entirely unreasonable to suggest it travelled on the First Fleet. LAPSLEY CALLS IT A DAY Noted colonial entrepreneur John Macarthur planted “little black ACCOLADE Wines has cluster” at Camden Park, south of Sydney, in the early 1800s, but it announced the retirement was his son, William, botanist and vigneron, who played a greater of highly regarded wine role in the history of the grape in this country by distributing colonial industry veteran Paul vine stock far and wide. Lapsley, whose most recent role was as its SETTING SUN A ‘SYMBIOTIC CONNECTION’ global wine director. THE first Kalleske family members arrived in the Barossa Valley in Lapsley first joined the 1847 and various branches have been involved in grape growing company with Houghton in and the wine industry ever since. 1987 before rising through the ranks to become group John and Barbara Kalleske purchased land and vineyards near red winemaker in 2004 and Atze’s Corner in 1975 and have been developing vineyards in then chief winemaker for Ebenezer and Koonunga Hills since then. The oldest vines on Hardys in 2007. He assumed responsibility for all winemaking the current estate date back to 1912 on what was previously operations across the business as group chief winemaker before the Atze family property. In 2005, Andrew Kalleske - the current being appointed global wine director in 2016. “An industry veteran vigneron - produced the first batch of shiraz called Eddie’s with almost 40 years of winemaking experience, Paul commands Old Vine. Atze’s Corner now also produces wine from mataro, enormous respect for his vision, ambition and pure skill that graciano, petite syrah/durif, montepulciano, grenache, cabernet has come to be expressed in some of our most prestigious and sauvignon and vermentino. successful wines and wine brands,” said Anton van Heerden, of Accolade Wines. Atze’s Corner wines can now be sampled in an architecturally- designed space that has undergone a remarkable transformation “Paul can be immensely proud of his role as flag bearer for the from a mezzanine floor to a sleek cellar door which offers views historic Hardys brand, as well as his undiminished passion for over the valley. excellent quality wine that leaves behind a formidable legacy. We wish him a long and well-earned retirement.” Think rustic charm with copper, marble and timber fittings, as well as leather seating. “We wanted our cellar door to maximise the Highlights of Lapsley’s career include winning 29 gold medals in a views, especially at sunset,” says Andrew Kalleske. “The result is a single year at the 2009 Hobart Wine Show, kick-starting the Houghton balcony that points towards the sun as it sets down the valley and premium red program that culminated in the inaugural release of overlooks our old vineyards. With our wines gaining considerable recognition, we wanted to offer visitors a true wine experience. This spectacular setting provides a symbiotic connection with the May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs the iconic Jack Mann in 1994 and overseeing the 2014 Hardy 165th NEWCOMERS MAKE THEIR MARK Anniversary Cabernet Shiraz, Accolade’s first 99-pointed wine. FALANGHINA? Nero di Troia? Piedirosso? Lapsley said that while he was sad to be departing the company, All are new releases from the Chalmers vineyard at Merbein outside he would look back fondly on an incredible career in which he was fortunate enough to work with industry leading viticulture and Mildura, all are from the 2018 vintage and all are first releases of the winemaking teams as well as world-class mentors. “Pushing the grape varieties in Australia. boundaries and creating wines of great character and quality have continued to be a passion for me, whether following the The wines are part of the 2018 Chalmers Project wines, the first great blending tradition of the world famous Hardys brand or Australian wines to be made from a suite of 10 new grape varieties introducing the premium Jack Mann range at Houghton, and I selected in 2011, introduced in 2013 and released from quarantine am grateful for Accolade’s support for these endeavours,” he in 2015. Five of the 10 varieties are brand new to Australia, the said. “I have made many friends through the company over the other five are new clones of grapes which already have a small years and will miss working with a group of dedicated and driven presence on Aussie soil. Wine lovers might have tried a verdicchio people who are truly passionate about our portfolio.” or a teroldego before, but probably not a ribolla gialli, or an inzolia. Falanghina (also known as beneventana), is a white from Campania, HONOURING PUGLISI north of Naples, that sits somewhere between soave and muscadet in style and is a fine partner for grilled seafood. THE Royal Queensland Wine Show has named its Grand Champion Wine of Show trophy after Angelo Puglisi, the Piedirosso is also from Campania, sometimes called palumbo, Ballandean Estate founder who is known as “the father of while Nero di Troia is grown alongside negroamaro and primitivo the Queensland wine industry”. Puglisi was instrumental in in Puglia. establishing a modern wine industry in Queensland beginning in the 1960s, when he planted recognised wine grape varieties The Chalmers family has been at the forefront of new varietals in at Ballandean. Previously, wine in Queensland had largely been Australia since the 1990s when it imported around 70 selections made from table grapes. Puglisi said the Queensland wine of “new” wine grape varieties and clones into Australia through industry had been his life for more than 50 years and it was an its nursery business. honour to have the Grand Champion trophy named after him. “I hope the award encourages people in the wine industry to “It was a bold move and took years of hard work and passion to always strive to do their best and create the best wines that come to fruition,” says Kim Chalmers. “We enthusiastically promoted reflect their region,” he said. The winner of the Angelo Puglisi those varieties and shared those vines with hundreds of growers Grand Champion Wine of Show will also be awarded a $12,000 across Australia, with over two million vines from these original RNA fellowship to be used for travel, training and education to importations now planted in vineyards across Australia. Today we are further their winemaking skills. super proud of the contribution these varieties have made. Excited to be responsible for every single nero d’avola vineyard and wine in Australia, every single sagrantino or schioppettino vine.” Chalmers began making wines from these varieties in 2003, including vermentino, greco, malvasia istriana, aglianico, nero d’avola, sagrantino, negroamaro and more. The Chalmers Project is now in its fourth year. “The results from these experiments have been an important factor in the decision making for our viticulture and winemaking over the last few years,” says Chalmers. If you fancy a grechetto or a pecorino, or any of the other Chalmers Project newcomers, they will cost you $32 a bottle. Visit www. chalmersproject.com.au. 14 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

ANGOVE ANGELS River. The undulating landscape is a mix of ancient Karri forests, rivers and farmland, bordered by the Southern Ocean. Fonty’s Pool THE Angove Family has expanded its vineyard holdings in McLaren Chalet and Caravan Park is home to Truffle Kerfuffle with other luxury Vale with the acquisition of the Angel Gully Vineyard in the sub- and budget accommodation options available in Manjimup and region of Clarendon. surrounding towns of Pemberton, Northcliffe, Bridgetown, Nannup and Margaret River. Previously owned by Primo Estate, the 12.7ha vineyard sits high above the small town of Clarendon. With an elevation of over LOVE AFFAIR WITH ALL THINGS PINK 280m, it is mostly dry grown, planted predominately to shiraz and has what Angoves describe as “a history of producing wines of ROSÉ table wines have been all the rage for several summers finesse and elegance”. now, while Australia's cool-climate sparkling wines are acclaimed as being among the best in the world. With vineyards in McLaren Vale tightly held, the purchase is something of a coup for Angoves. Why, then, have sparkling rosé wines not yet made a major breakthrough with consumers? De Bortoli Wines’ “The vineyard is truly unique and simply stunning,” says Victoria rosé aficionados Leanne De Bortoli and Steve Angove. “It has good mature shiraz vines that are just coming in to Webber have long aspired to create a sparkling their prime at 20 years of age. The cool sub-region of Clarendon rosé after enjoying some “posh Laurent Perrier has always produced fine wines that stylistically we love and we Grand Cuvee Rosé” many years ago, saying it was are looking forward to making wine from this beautiful site. We the best they’ve had. have a long-term plan in place for our McLaren Vale grape growing and wine-making, and the Angel Gully vineyard will contribute to The Yarra Valley couple believe they’ve cracked driving the next phase of our fine wine-making.” The vineyard will the holy grail with their new pale, dry La Boheme NV be re-named Angels Rise. Visit www.angove.com.au. Cuvee Rosé. Inspired by Australia’s growing love affair with all things pink, La Boheme Cuvee Rosé TEMPTED BY TRUFFLES is a new addition to De Bortoli Wines’ popular La Boheme range. GOURMETS should put June 21-23 into This very approachable rosé bubbly is their diaries for a long kept pale and relatively dry (8g/litre of weekend in Manjimup residual sugar) and is blended in batches in Western Australia’s or cuvees using vintage and reserve wines. south west. Chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, the three classic champagne grapes, are Truffle Kerfuffle is all part of the blend. This blend is made up a weekend-long of 45 per cent 2016, 2017 and 2018 vintage celebration of truffle wines to which 55 percent reserve wine season at the heart of Australian truffle country. Join truffle hunters dating back to 2010 was added. Its varietal and their clever canines to search out prized truffles, visit the composition is 80 per cent chardonnay, 15 marketplace for a taste of the region or get your truffle fix at special per cent pinot noir and 5 per cent pinot dining events. There will be free demonstrations and entertainment meunier. It costs $22 a bottle. on the festival grounds at Fonty’s Pool. The Southern Forests are a scenic 3.5-hour drive from Perth or 90 minutes from Margaret May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs CALABRIAS MAKE THEIR MOVE LEGACY TO A VISIONARY THE Calabria family has been making wines in the Riverina region IT is 50 years since Sydney hotelier and publican Bill Taylor Sr for 74 years but has celebrated the launch of a new base in the decided to establish a family wine estate in the Clare Valley. Barossa Valley. It was a time when fortified wines still ruled the roost in Australia, Bill Calabria AM, patriarch of Calabria Family Wines, visited the but Taylor was determined to replicate some of the great wines iconic Barossa Valley a decade ago and made the decision that of Bordeaux. On July 20, 1969, Taylor first set foot on a site by the family should spread its wings to South Australia. Bill, wife the Wakefield River. It was the same day that Neil Armstrong took Lena and their four children attended the opening of their Barossa man’s first steps on the moon. Plantings of cabernet sauvignon Valley cellar door in the former Artisans of Barossa facility. The vines - gifted by the famous Wynn family of Coonawarra - were picturesque Barossa landmark is on the outskirts of Tanunda and the start of the estate, which is known as Wakefield Estate outside comprises a modern cellar door, tasting bar, restaurant and 10ha Australia. While the Taylors, now led by third-generation Mitchell of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon vines. Taylor, already have premium wines, The Visionary and The Pioneer, they will launch a new ultra-premium red blend to mark the 50th Managing director Michael Calabria said: “We wish Artisans of birthday of the business and the family legacy. the Barossa all the best on their new venture, as they open the doors to their new wine room and bar in Tanunda. They have been The details were kept under wraps before The Legacy was instrumental in bringing a new era of wine and food to the cellar revealed at a special function at the Art Gallery of New South Wales door in the Barossa Valley.” in Sydney on April 16. The 2014 The Legacy will be priced at $1000 a bottle with a very limited release. It is 92 per cent cabernet with a Third-generation siblings Frank, Michael, Andrew and Elizabeth dash of merlot and cabernet franc and all the fruit is estate grown. Calabria will work alongside the team from Harvest Kitchen, who The Taylor family vineyards are at Auburn and have an elevation of will remain in residence. up to 350m, ensuring “We are looking forward to partnering with the Harvest Kitchen team warm days and cool to continue to bring honest and flavoursome food and wine of the nights. Today, the Barossa Valley,” said Michael Calabria. Taylor family is the biggest producer Established in 1945 Calabria will remain based in the Riverina, where of wine from the their award-winning wines include the Three Bridges label and Italian Clare Valley, with a varietal range: Calabria Private Bin. reputation for fine cabernet, shiraz and Michael Calabria said: “As a family, we saw the Barossa as Australia’s riesling. Taylors is a equivalent to the Napa or Bordeaux regions which supports our vision member of Australia's of pursuing a more diverse and premium wine portfolio. This is such First Families of Wine an exciting time for us and we have to thank our Dad, Bill, for pouring group, and a regular hours into the care of the vineyard and refurbishment of the cellar winner of show door. He has an affinity with the Barossa and the whole community awards around the has been exceptionally generous and supportive.” globe. Visit www. taylorswines.com. The Calabria family owns three premium Barossa Valley vineyards, including the 2012 purchase of The Sophie Vineyard and the 2010 purchase of The William Vineyard, originally planted by the Hahn family in 1914 and the source of their new vintage release, Calabria The Iconic Reserve Shiraz 2014. Calabria Family Wines Barossa Valley is on the corner of Magnolia and Light Pass roads, Vine Vale, and is open daily from 11am-6pm. Harvest Kitchen is open seven days for lunch from 11:30am and late on Friday and Saturday evenings. 16 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

briefs FLAVOURS TO ‘FLOAT YOUR BOAT’ 36-day bike tour from Paris to St Petersburg. The “Napoleon Epic Adventure” will cross seven countries following in the footsteps of OCEANIA Cruises has unveiled an exclusive Dom Perignon Napoleon’s Grande Armee and cover over 3700km. Experience in La Reserve, its floating high-end restaurants on board the Marina and Riviera. It begins in Paris with a spin down the Champs-Elysees, followed by aperitifs under the shadow of the Arc de Triomphe before This unique dining experience afloat pairs six courses of fine departing for Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, and food with four different expressions and vintages of Dom Perignon Russia. The scenery will include rolling vineyards, forests, medieval Champagne. “This is a totally new concept that is exclusive to villages and historic cities. The tour is slated for July 6-August 10, Oceania Cruises,” said Bob Binder, president and CEO of Oceania and prices start from $15,850. Cruises. “We worked with the team at Dom Perignon to pair the perfect champagnes with the perfect flavours and the outcome is spectacular. There is an option to ride eight-day or 15-day stages of the tour Marina and Riviera restaurants will be the only places in the world for starting at $3560. travellers to enjoy this exclusive Dom Perignon experience.” “Our guests will experience total immersion into the landscape, Created by the culinary team at La Maison Dom Perignon in history and culture as we ride this inspirational trail on the roads conjunction with Oceania Cruises’ culinary team, the dinner is less travelled,” said Ride & Seek Founder Dylan Reynolds. “We will offered to a maximum of 24 guests a night. sample the culinary delights and embrace the abundant cultural and historical elements as we meander our way across Europe.” “We created this dinner to be sophisticated, memorable, a little bit decadent, but also a lot of fun. After all, champagne is all about Guests will ride across the Champagne region of France into celebration,” said Binder. The menu features scallops “Rossini”, mole southern Germany. The route then heads through UNESCO- negro and roasted pineapple with Dom Perignon 2009; Brittany blue protected medieval villages in Poland to the North Sea. From here, lobster in yellow curry broth and coco foam, and black truffle risotto with it moves east via the great lakes of Poland and the Baltics. Guests aged parmesan with Dom Perignon 2006; seared wagyu beef sashimi- will eventually arrive in St Petersburg, a city Napoleon never took, style, sauteed arugula, blood orange-soya jus and caviar perlita and but a “must see” on a Russian odyssey. a French AOC cheese plate, blackcurrant pepper paste and thyme flower with Dom Perignon Rosé 2004, followed by Sakura tea “Geisha “We will visit expert champagne makers, eat wonderful regional flower” ice cream and lemon caviar paired with Dom Perignon 2009. cuisine, explore UNESCO recognised sites, and ride through beautiful forests, remote territory and bustling cities, all in the “We’ve gone to exceptional lengths to pair the flavours of the footsteps of Napoleon,” said Reynolds. Visit www.rideandseek. dishes and the accompanying vintages to bring out the best in com/tour/napoleon-paris-to-saint-petersburg. each other, and even surprise the palates of our dinner guests,\" said Bernhard Klotz, vice-president of culinary operations for Oceania Cruises. Reservations are required, and the cost is $295 per guest not including gratuities. Reservations may be made via travel agents, directly with Oceania Cruises, or on board at the specialty dining desk located on deck five of both ships. SADDLE UP YOU'LL need to be a very fit and accomplished cyclist to want to attempt the new Paris to St Petersburg “Napoleon” Cycling Tour - but the trip offers plenty of rewards for gourmets. Ride & Seek Adventures, the adventure travel company known for its Hannibal Expedition cycling tour from Barcelona to Rome, has announced an even more audacious excursion taking riders on a May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefs HONOURING A SPIRIT OF INDEPENDENCE cellars available for those keen to capture a unique new way to store their favourite drops. YALUMBA has unveiled a new regional wine range in tribute to company founder Samuel Smith. Located within the bluestone walls of the historic prison precinct in Coburg - former residence to such infamous criminals as Yalumba launched Samuel’s Collection; described as “the Squizzy Taylor, Mark “Chopper” Read and Christopher Flannery gateway to Yalumba’s premium wine portfolio” in March. It is - the private wine cellars are equipped with racking, temperature 170 years since Smith planted his first vines in the Barossa, and control, ambient lighting and security, including CCTV. Yalumba is releasing Samuel’s Collection “in honour of his spirit of independence”. The collection of fine wine, with an RRP of $28, will The owners say custom finishes and features can be celebrate Yalumba’s heartland and its heritage, with seven wines incorporated into each cellar to create a truly personal space. showcasing varieties and blends iconic to both the Barossa and “These spaces in D Division were used to hold prisoners right Yalumba. Samuel’s Collection includes Barossa shiraz, Barossa up until the closure of Pentridge Prison in 1997,” says Tardivel. shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, Barossa bush vine grenache, “Now we’re giving wine connoisseurs the opportunity to own a little Barossa grenache shiraz mataro, Eden Valley viognier, Eden Valley piece of history and a wonderful space to house their collection.” chardonnay and Eden Valley roussanne. Each cellar is able to house up to 2000 bottles, dependent on “Samuel’s Collection celebrates the legacy established by Samuel the type of racking and storage selected, and it’s anticipated some Smith 170 years ago when he planted some of Australia’s first people will purchase concurrent cellars for commercial collections. grape vines here in Barossa,” said Yalumba executive director of marketing Nicky Gameau. “The wines in this collection showcase “The cellars are made of about 500mm-thick bluestone walls, Yalumba’s Barossa style, a favourite across the world, and are which in itself keeps the wine at a cool and stable temperature,” wonderful complements to different foods and occasions.” Yalumba Tardivel says. “We have added a state-of-the-art climate-control head of winemaking Louisa Rose said: “Understanding that wine unit to ensure an absolute year-round stable temperature and drinkers are seeking more youthful, generous and fresher wines, we humidity, which are the key elements required for perfect cellaring have crafted Samuel’s Collection to fit this style, while still showing conditions. The unique history of the building itself aside, you the hallmarks expressed in the Yalumba wine-making philosophy.” would think that it had been purpose-built for its second life as a wine storage site.” Samuel’s Collection will be the first wines to feature the new Yalumba Clocktower iconography which will now be present across Cellar owners will have access to their space at all times using all brand material. All Samuel’s Collection wines will be sustainably a swipe card and can bring guests to the cellar to showcase their grown and vegan friendly. collections. Prices start at $115,000, with each DOING TIME of the wine cellars sold with its own strata title. CELLS in D-Division of the notorious former Pentridge Prison are being given a new lease of life - as cellars for discerning lovers Pentridge Cellars is of fine wine. located at 4 Wardens Walk, Coburg. Visit Pentridge Cellars, owned by self-confessed wine enthusiasts www.pentridgecellars. Paul Tardivel and Michael Woodworth, has a limited number of com. 18 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

briefs SMITH STEPS UP WOMEN ROAR TIM Smith, of Tim Smith Wines, was named the 2019 Barossa LOOK out for Hear Me Roar, the world’s first wine produced by Winemaker of the Year at the traditional Declaration of Vintage women to raise funds for women in wine. held in Tanunda. The Australian Women in Wine Awards has announced that the “I’m humbled to be chosen to be part of this lineage of truly new release will see 100 per cent of profits go to assist women to great winemakers,” said Smith. “I’m not a fourth or fifth-generation flourish and succeed in their chosen profession in the wine industry. Barossa winemaker. In fact, I’m only here because I fortuitously landed a vintage job at Yalumba 33 years ago, leading me on a Hear Me Roar is a 2018 shiraz sourced and blended by four of completely unexpected and exciting path.” Australia’s top female winemakers from parcels in the Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Eden Valley and McLaren Vale regions of Having earned his Barossa pedigree over years of working South Australia. Those involved come from the highest echelons alongside some of the region’s finest winemakers, Smith of winemaking - Sue Hodder, Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate; Emma acknowledges their influence on his approach to winemaking Norbiato, Calabria Family Wines; Rebekah Richardson, Irvine Wines - accessing great vineyards, timely picking, a light hand in the and Corrina Wright, Oliver’s Taranga. winery and a sensibility for tradition. The wine was released on February 21 with quantities strictly “I’ve had the privilege of working with some of the greatest limited. A minimum order of six bottles is required, with free Australia- winemakers in the world here, all of whom have been generous wide delivery. Irvine Wines has funded the project and is assisting with their time and their knowledge,” he said. with the sales process. Ben Zander, the Viticulturist of the Year, is a fourth-generation The brand name Hear Me Roar is a deliberate reference to the Eden Valley grape grower managing the family mixed vineyard iconic Helen Reddy song released in 1971 and taken up more widely and grazing property as well as a contracting enterprise. as a rallying cry for female empowerment. All proceeds from the sale of the wine will go towards scholarships, mentoring programs His father, Ian Zander, received the same award in 1992, an and professional development for women in the acknowledgement of the generational change occurring in this region. Australian wine industry. Information on how to apply and the selection criteria will be made SPREAD YOUR WINGS available in June. THERE is a new way to discover the beauty of Tasmania from above. “This is an exciting next stage in the way we Above and Beyond, part-owned by Meadowbank Wines are able to support Australian women in wine,” said Jane Thomson, founder and chair of the owner Gerald Ellis, now operates scenic seaplane flights and AWIWA. “While the awards continue to provide charters from Kings Pier Marina, Franklin Wharf, on Hobart’s an important platform to champion the success waterfront. The eight-seat (including the pilot) de Havilland of women, we also recognise that more action Beaver is an amphibious aircraft, which means it can land both is needed to retain women in all roles of the on water or land - so travelling just about anywhere is possible. industry at greater levels. Releasing this wine Tasmania is world famous for its natural beauty and spectacular is a means of generating the funding we landscapes. Now, Above and Beyond, is providing the rare need to make that happen.” opportunity to experience the island from the air and touch down in some spectacular locations, including wineries. From a quick The amount of support received 25-minute city scenic flight to the remote south-west wilderness has been fantastic,” said Rebekah or sunny east coast, Above and Beyond says it aims to provide Richardson. “And it’s a great reminder customers with an experience they will never forget. Visit www. of what we as an Australian wine aboveandbeyond.flights. community can do when we come together.” The Australian Women in Wine Awards (AWIWA) was founded in 2015 to acknowledge and reward the work of women in the Australian wine industry, and industry leaders who champion equality and fairness for all sexes in the workplace. Order the wine at www.womeninwineawards. com.au/hear-me-roar. May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 19

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW INVIVO IN THE CITY? Bannockburn’s Felton Road. Designed by award-winning Dunedin architects, Mason and Wales, the multi-million-dollar cellar door, THE dynamic team at Invivo Wines tasting room and entertaining spaces are spectacularly cantilevered is clearly not content just to sit back out over the company’s Eliza vineyard towards the Kawerau River. and enjoy its recent record-setting Te Kano own 42ha of vineyards, including the 5ha Felton Road site crowdfunding capital investment and a further 32ha at Northburn, focused on pinot noir, chardonnay offer (which raised over $NZ4 and pinot-based blanc de noir. Owner Rhonda Lloyd says: “The million, $A3.8 million, from 687 tasting room is a place where we can share the Te Kano story. It will investors in just over a fortnight) be the heartbeat of our business. In the longer term, we are planning not to mention its wildly popular accommodation and restaurant development to further enhance the collaboration with Graham Norton visitor experience. We hope it will be a special place where we not (think sauvignon blanc, rosé, only welcome visitors to experience Te Kano, but to also celebrate prosecco and Irish gin). Instead, the the history of Central Otago.” Te Kano also further committed to the team will soon launch a project with region with a restoration project for the native kowhai tree underway. actor Sarah Jessica Parker, of Sex Winemaker Dave Sutton says: “Through the vineyards and the in the City fame. With a sauvignon building of this tasting room we are committing to breathing new life blanc and rosé expected mid-year, into Northburn and Bannockburn. There’s more to come - watch this Parker will not just be putting her space.” The tasting room will be open for visitors from September. name to a wine, but as with Graham Norton, she’ll be involved in all aspects of its production, from label VILLA MARIA EMBRACES ITS WORLD design to winemaking decisions, including the say over the final STANDING blend. Parker is also a shareholder in the company, founded by Rob Cameron and Tim Lightbourne. Winemaker Cameron, says, “We want NO stranger to award ceremonies, Villa Maria has been recently this wine range to be 100 per cent Sarah Jessica Parker. So other than named by Drinks International as third in the Most Admired Wine selecting the base wines for a sauvignon blanc and rosé, I’ll be taking Brands in the World, the fifth consecutive year it has made the a back seat and letting her create the blends.” Parker is enthusiastic list and the first time ever a NZ wine brand has been awarded in about the collaboration, commenting: “I’m a true wine lover and love the Top Three. Run by Drinks International magazine and global including wine in family dinners and occasions with friends, so this research firm Wine Intelligence, over 130 wine experts are polled, is a very exciting and fun project for me. I’m looking forward to every who consider more than 100,000 wineries globally. Villa Maria stage of the creation process. I intend to be very hands-on throughout, founder and president, Sir George Fistonich, says: “This award is a as I am with all my endeavours, and could not be partnering with a testament to the unrelenting passion, enthusiasm and intelligence better brand than Invivo.” Cameron clearly agrees: “It comes down of our winemaking and viticulture teams. The quality of our wines to SJP’s palate and preferences. We want to create wines that she consistently deliver and show we exceed in all the award criteria. It’s loves and wants to drink and share with friends.” fantastic recognition for Villa Maria and I’m incredibly proud that we are punching well above our weight on this prestigious global list.” MORE QUALITY THAN QUANTITY NEW BOOSTER FOR MAHANA AT the time of press, NZ’s wineries are in the thick of harvest, buoyed by an extended run of warm, sunny weather the length of the country NELSON winery Mahana Estates was subject to a receivership sale after a cool, fairly damp spring. Yields are expected to be down, after an extremely acrimonious and litigious fallout between its three but unlike 2017 and 2018, there have been no tropical cyclones owners, two of whom were based in Las Vegas and one of whom to contend with and viticulturists and winemakers alike are smiling at one point threatened to bury another in the desert, along with his at the quality of the grapes coming into the presses. The industry three dogs (very unusual and exotic goings on for sleepy Nelson). has recorded its 23rd consecutive year of export growth, with The estate has now been sold to NZ investment company Booster, exports now valued at $NZ1.7 billion ($A1.6 billion). The smaller- which purchased the stylish winery, tasting room, restaurant, function than-usual harvest expected (419,000 tonnes were harvested in venue and 21ha of vineyards. Nelson winery Seifried Estate separately 2018) could potentially cause a slight hiccup for the $NZ2 billion purchased Mahana’s 9ha sauvignon blanc vineyard in the nearby Hope ($A1.9 billion) exports by 2020 goal set by NZ Winegrowers. The area. Booster has made a series of winery purchases in the past few US in currently NZ’s largest export market at $NZ500 million ($A480 years, including fellow Nelson winery, Waimea Estates, Awatere River million) followed by the UK, which faces Brexit-induced uncertainty. of Marlborough, Bannock Brae in Central Otago and Sileni Estates However with a positive industry outlook, new vineyards continuing in Hawke’s Bay. Booster runs a scheme in NZ’s state retirement fund to be planted and a stellar 2019 harvest under its belt, the good Kiwisaver, allowing members to invest in its growing wine holdings. ship New Zealand Wine seems to be sailing in clear waters. NEW CHAPTER IN THE TE KANO STORY NEW kid on the block Te Kano Estate continues its ongoing investment in Central Otago, with its impressive new building in 20 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

New Zealand’s Most Trusted & Admired Wine Brand George, Founder, Owner

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW WHITE GEMS IN THE RED ENGINE ROOM LANGUEDOC-Roussillon is the engine room All of those nine million bottles of sparkling amount of nutrients for the yeast to do their of French viticulture. This southerly region, appellation wine come from Limoux. bit before they become starved. Left like along much of France’s Mediterranean Indeed, Limoux argues to be the source of this - undisgorged - the wine can be a bit coast, produces roughly a third of all French the first sparkling wine, before the claims cloudy as the yeasts are still in the bottle. wines - around 14 million hectolitres -about of both England and Champagne. The Disgorging is safer: yeast are removed that 1mhl more than all of Australia. story has it that the Benedictine monks at might otherwise be able to keep fermenting Saint-Hilaire Abbey developed the second and possibly cause bottle explosion if Given Languedoc-Roussillon’s fermentation in bottle nearly a century enough pressure were to build up. With Mediterranean location, you’d think it’s before Champagne, though this remains disgorgement there’s also the option to pretty much red wine territory, and it is. disputed. top up with protective sulphur dioxide. Along with some rich, fortified wines. The result is a gently bubbly, low alcohol, But there are also a few gems of white The whites, mainly around 7 per cent abv, medium sweet to wines to be found in three appellations sweet, refreshing, fresh, floral and appley, at the west, east and south boundaries from chardonnay, along skin and flesh, sparkler. of the region. In absolute numbers, all the white appellation wines make about with chenin blanc and If this style of wine begins to look familiar, 15 million litres, so just over 1 per cent of it is because the ancestral method is the total Languedoc-Roussillon production. mauzac, can show real original “pet nat”, a style that has been This figure doesn’t include the sparkling gaining some niche traction in Australia. Languedoc-Roussillon appellation wines class, especially from - so add on another roughly nine million Limoux also has separate categories for bottles, and that’s still way less than 2 per cooler, higher vineyards. still red and white for the 10 per cent of cent of total region production. the appellation that is not made sparkling. Sparkling Limoux is made in three styles: The whites, mainly from chardonnay, along But a really interesting per cent or two. rules are complicated but essentially, two with chenin blanc and mauzac, can show The cooler climate necessary for sparkling of the styles are traditional method and the real class, especially from cooler, higher wine production is found in Limoux, which is third style is different. This style, Blanquette vineyards. located at the western end of Languedoc, de Limoux ancestral method, is the really south of Carcassonne, in the heart of Cathar fun one. It is a single, partial, fermentation Over at the eastern edge of Languedoc- castle country, and up, into the foothills of pure mauzac. The fermentation is started Roussillon are found a couple of very of the Pyrenees. You have to be in the and when it reaches 5-6 per cent abv, the different appellations for white wine. right spot in climatically diverse Limoux fermenting must is bottled, where another Picpoul is right on the Mediterranean coast, vineyards. The higher altitude Haute- 1 per cent alcohol is typically achieved, between Pezenas and Sete, overlooking Vallee - the upstream, more elevated, at which point the process stops, or is the Thau lagoon. The appellation’s 1400ha parts of the river Aude, among Pyrenean stopped. make it the biggest white wine producing foothills, are cool with more moisture, and area in the Languedoc, making more some moderating climate influence from Skilfully filtering the fermenting must than 60 per cent of the region’s still white the Atlantic. This is where the white and before bottling can leave just the right wines. The wine is made from the picpoul, sparklings thrive. Vineyards reach up to also spelt piquepoul, grape variety, which about 500m elevation. is almost unencountered outside of the region. It ripens late, which means ripening 22 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

Perfectly avoids the peak heat of the summer and appellation for red, pink and white wine. balanced. gains from early autumn overnight sea Ancient, steep, terraced schist is the mists. Proximity to the Mediterranean backdrop for these wines, the vineyards for DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, also offers cooling sea breezes which which (all colours), cover just 600ha, and yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. ameliorate the heat of the day. Picpoul has rise up to 450m elevation. Our bold service offering is built on naturally high acidity, too, which helps to a full-bodied foundation of vast ensure freshness. Roussillon is one of the sunniest places general commercial experience, yet in France, with more than 300 days of overlaid with distinctive specialist The grape has a long history in this sunshine per year. Basking in the heat expertise in a number of key spot. It has clawed its way out of being an of that Mediterranean sun, you don’t industries and niche market ingredient of late 19th and 20th century automatically think of refined, refreshing sectors. vermouth production, emerging slowly as white wine, but it works here, mainly with It’s a winning combination that a still wine in its own right after World War grenache blanc and grenache gris. These allows every client who opens a II. The introduction of machine harvesting are mutations of the more familiar grenache “case” to get exactly what they in the 1980s was a turning point, as was (noir), and they must comprise at least need. So whatever your business associating the wine with the local Thau 70 per cent of a white blend, sometimes or legal objectives, don’t hesitate lagoon oysters among tourists. Night complemented by the likes of vermentino, to contact us. harvesting has helped more. Such is the macabeu (viura of white Rioja fame), At DW Fox Tucker, every success of picpoul, that in 2013 the region marsanne or roussanne (more common in client matters. was elevated to its own appellation. Before the southern Rhone). this it had been a sub-region of the large L14, 100 King William Street Languedoc appellation. Only around 20 per cent of Collioure Adelaide SA 5000 production is white, and the promise p: +61 8 8124 1811 Picpoul is light and refreshing, floral is good. Grenache blanc’s affinity with blossom, lemony, lively, subtle and oak means barrel fermentation can add e: [email protected] sometimes a bit herbal, and is best drunk texture, weight and a honeyed toasty dwfoxtucker.com.au young. Some producers are trialling note to Mediterranean stone fruit flavours. various winemaking processes to see if And grenache gris is a grape variety that COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES any are suited to the picpoul grape variety, keeps its acidity well even in such a warm ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY without losing the essence of the wine. location. Together they are traditionally Cyril Payon, a director at the Ormarine used in Roussillon’s vins doux naturels, and INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY co-operative, explained they are trialling they are increasingly finding a niche home RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES wines for keeping longer, with fuller body, in still, dry styles, both with and without SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS but they don’t yet know if these things are oak influence. Very early morning harvest COMPENSATION possible. Recent tasting trials suggested brings the fruit in cooler, though here lees contact may work, while skin contact harvest must be done by hand because of might be less successful. the steep, narrow schist terraces. Still on the Mediterranean coast, but in neighbouring Roussillon, abutting the border with Spain, lies Collioure, an May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 23 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES CAMDEN Estate was my first introduction Companion to Wine even mentions bacon do four or five styles starting with a sparkling to an Australian gewurztraminer in 1989, fat, which I admit I’ve never found. All these wine and finishing up with a dessert wine,” some 30 years ago. I still recall the intensity spices explains the Germanic reference Ritchie comments. He also mentions the on the nose, its incredible perfume and to spice (gewurz) in its name. The name latest venture in supplying the fruit for a the lusciousness on the palate. The 2ha gewurztraminer can carry an umlaut (ü) in gewurztraminer schnapps! of vines were planted by Norman Hanckel the German spelling but not the French. in 1974. I know the vines haven’t survived His Hell’s Window, a pinot gris, as the vineyard was grafted over to Gewurztraminer is the aromatic version gewurztraminer, riesling blend is a natural chardonnay. What a shame, but financially of sauvignon rose and while it was first wine that is growing in popularity each it was always doomed; you can sell 10 recorded in Germany the varietal’s home is year. Ritchie explains how it is made: “we bottles of chardonnay to every one bottle in Alsace. In days gone by, the majority of co-ferment the grapes together so the of gewurztraminer. Australian wines were labelled as traminer. different skin colours looks amazing in the The name traminer has a longer history open top fermenters. Riesling adds the It is a strange varietal. The name is difficult than gewurztraminer as it originates from acidity, pinot gris brings colour and texture to pronounce and the aromas polarise the village of Tramin in Italy’s Tyrol region to the palate, and gewurztraminer adds people to either love it or hate it. The vine aromatics. It spends time on skins and is produces grapes that are pigmented a It’s our most consistent bottled with some residual sugar which pink colour and it ripens with high sugar allows it to continue to ferment so the wine levels, with high extract but low acidity. So variety, blessing us has a slight sparkle, is a touch cloudy and when made into wine it can be a bit tricky is dry to taste when you open it.” and needs a deft touch. You run the risk of with rich aromatic and it being too high in alcohol or you resign Topper’s Mountain in the New England yourself to make an off dry style. Some textured wines. region of New South Wales has pushed dry examples can top 14 per cent alcohol the boundaries of what can be achieved which is a rarity for a white wine. The wine and was first mentioned in the 13th century. with this variety. Its Gewurz skinC is similar can lack acidity and appear flabby. A group trip to Domaine Weinbach in to Hell’s Window. “In 2018 we decided to add a textural skin contact gewurz to our Should a classic gewurztraminer be dry? Alsace in 2014 gave me more insight into the line-up,” comments owner Mark Kirkby. It depends on what you like. The trend is varietal, especially when we tasted through “The first version was fermented in barrel fairly dry at the moment, but when you smell 10 different styles ranging from 19g/litre of and on skins for 90 days, and it’s the added those sweet floral and lychee notes then go residual sugar up to 200. I found the spice dimension of seeds and skin tannins that on to taste a dry wine, it seems a letdown. aromas came out in the warmer vintages makes this an excellent food match with However, think about the number of white such as 2015. We tried some older vintages dishes that need some tannin such as duck varieties that can taste the same? When and learnt from owner Catherine Faller that and pork or fatty salmon.” He also makes all you can come up with to describe the aged gewurztraminer goes well with lobster a dry barrel fermented style using 100 per nose is “citrus,” then gewurztraminer can as well as with aged Comte cheese, while cent new oak. “We thought this could work offer something distinctive and different. I the richer Selection de Grains Nobles can because of all the power and fruit intensity get disappointed when my students don’t be matched with blue cheese. gewurz has, and it would blend well with and recognise it. How can you miss the aromas not be overpowered by the oak.” Topper’s of garden roses, rosewater and lychee! As Australian gewurztraminer has become Mountain puts the variety at the top of its list the wine increases in alcohol you might inventive. David Ritchie, managing director of wines. “It’s our most consistent variety, smell ginger, Turkish delight, cardamom, at Delatite Wines in Victoria’s High Country, blessing us with rich aromatic and textured allspice or sandalwood. The Oxford knows a bit about the variety as his family wines,” reflects Kirkby. has been growing it for some 50 years. “We 24 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

Sydney’s best location, minutes from anywhere. Back in Victoria, Deadman’s Hill is The York by Swiss-Belhotel Delatite’s benchmark gewurztraminer 5 York Street, Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia and is made from a mix of young vines Tel: +61 2 9210 5000 and the original planting which are now E-mail: [email protected] 50 years old. Delatite strives for textures swiss-belhotel.com and structure in its wines which comes at the expense of aromatics, but when you have got such pungent aromas in gewurztraminer then that might not be a bad thing. “Aromas vary from year to year” Ritchie said. “Rather than lychee we get closer to musk and rose water. Our wines are not as intense as they use to be as in 2009 when we moved to 100 per cent wild yeasts ferments. What we now achieve are wines with better palate weight and structure.” Most of the white wines see skin contact, lees contact and time fermenting in old puncheon oak barrels. Delatite Reserve Catherine’s Block is its sweet wine which can have a touch of botrytis, however, since changing over to being biodynamic there has been less occurrence. It normally has around 70 to 80g of residual sugar and it is not as intensely aromatic as the other wines, but has the ability to age. Gewurztraminer vine produces small bunches and is low yielding and prone to spring frost. At Delatite they have noticed that the old vines can be susceptible to eutypa dieback/dead arm disease. It is more prone to uneven ripeness known as millerandage (hens and chickens) and downy mildew. But Ritchie says one of his worst fears is global warming as this threatens to decrease the already low levels of acidity the grape possesses. However, with wineries like Delatite and Topper’s Mountain pushing the boundaries on wine styles gewurztraminer has a bright future. May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 25

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING BEER’S BACK IN BREW CITY ONE of the great pleasures of YouTube is American System-Built Houses. Early the local sweet treat. Dense, super-rich comparing performances from different pre-fabricated homes that could be and barely able to sustain its own weight, eras from singers to racehorses. I was made in advance and assembled on site, the big cone was worth the wait. reminded of this recently following a six of these small but perfectly-formed trip to Milwaukee when I called up two dwellings can be found on West Burnham There's nothing olde worlde about versions of the old standard - What Made St in Milwaukee. During summer, one of the Milwaukee Public Market, but it’s Milwaukee Famous, by Rod Stewart and them is open to visitors on Friday and one of the best public markets in the Jerry Lee Lewis. The Killer, as Lewis Saturday nights. US for dedicated foodies. Launched was dubbed in his heyday, nailed it. in 2005, the steel, glass and bricks The pathos, the phrasing and the C&W Egg yolks have been added to ice of the spiffy-looking hall honour the feel. The “culprit” of the song is beer, cream since the 17th century, but the industrial history of Milwaukee’s Third of course, and a lot has changed in 1933 World’s Fair in Chicago introduced Ward. Easily reached by The Hop, a new Brew City since Schlitz, the brand that frozen custard to a much wider audience. streetcar line that was inaugurated last coined the tagline - the Beer That Made Milwaukee took the idea and ran with it November, the clientele is far removed Milwaukee Famous - ruled the roost. from the blue collar workers who once Following a decline in the lived nearby. You can buy a T-shirt Milwaukee is only a 90-minute drive from Brew City Apparel with the slogan from Chicago and it's compact enough pre-eminence of its suds Call Me Old-Fashioned - a reference to for a three-day trip. Pabst, another the official state cocktail of Wisconsin founding beer brand, may have moved reputation, Milwaukee - artisan cheeses, sausages, German- its brewing operations out of town, inspired bread and cakes and kitchen but there are plenty of reminders of its has undergone a craft accessories. There’s a great spread of enormous influence, from the ostentation restaurants for all-day dining. We chose of the Pabst Mansion, where founder beer revival over the past St Paul Fish Company with its fang-fresh Frederick and his family lived, to the seafood and creamy-as oysters. historic Pabst Brewery. Real pilgrims will three years and there stay at The Brewhouse Inn and Suites, The Third Ward, packed with boutiques, an upmarket boutique hotel housed in are now more than 30 bars, art galleries and more, is also the an old Pabst plant. best place to stay, preferably at The breweries in the city and Journeyman Hotel, a Kimpton property Like Chicago, Milwaukee is a hotspot opened two years ago. The nine storey for architecture buffs. The Milwaukee surrounding areas. former warehouse stands on the corner of Art Museum, an interactive work itself, Chicago and Broadway, and the feeling is was designed by Spanish star architect, to become “the unofficial frozen custard “warm industrial”, thanks to the extensive Santiago Calatrava, who designed capital of the world” and still has the use of granite, wood and leather. There’s the Athens Olympics complex and highest number of frozen custard shops a hosted wine/beer get-together every the Museum of Tomorrow in Rio de on the planet. The three names to know night in the Living Room and the chests Janeiro. Frank Lloyd Wright was born in are Kopp’s Frozen Custard, Gilles Frozen in the guest rooms sport numbers Wisconsin and was a great believer in Custard and Leon’s Frozen Custard. The from Milwaukee’s vintage locomotives. the right of people of all income levels queue was long at Leon’s, which dates The Outsider, a smart rooftop bar, is to live in attractive houses. In the early back to 1942, when we arrived to sample the It place for after-work drinks and 1900s, he debuted a concept called the signature restaurant, Tre Rivali, 26 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. specialises in top-notch Mediterranean Reserve Series at The Fermentorium Winestate Magazine dishes from wood-grilled artichokes to showcase Kris Volkman’s borderline @WinestateEd handmade pasta. genius take on beer from Whispering Scythe, a malty rye ale, to Manoomin, Milwaukee’s beer heritage stretches a blonde beer based on cherrywood- back 175 years and the city's baseball smoked malts and wild rice. Saisons, team is called the Brewers. In the old stouts and pilseners are the draw cards TV show, Laverne and Shirley, the title at Stock House Brewery, where the characters worked at the fictional Schotz atmosphere is contemporary cosy rather Brewery, an acronym of the city's original than gleaming upscale steel. beer companies - Pabst, Schlitz, Miller and Blatz. Following a decline in the No matter how trendy downtown and pre-eminence of its suds reputation, former working class areas like the Third Milwaukee has undergone a craft beer Ward and Bay View have become, the revival over the past three years and past keeps drawing you back. Pabst there are now more than 30 breweries in picked up sticks in 1996, but the Pabst the city and surrounding areas. Milwaukee Brewery and Taproom keeps the name alive and glowing. Opened You can’t get away from Milwaukee’s in 2017, the brewpub is located in a German roots and you shouldn’t try. Why gorgeously restored Gothic Revival go to Munich when you can come to church where the former management Glendale, queried our lederhosen-clad offered their workers more spiritual waiter at the Bavarian Bierhaus. Apart sustenance. Tastings include current from brews like Anvil Polka Pils and Pabst beers and old-style brews such Ornery Brewer IPA, the massive beer hall, as Andeker Helles and Old Tankard Ale. tap room and beer garden could have been air-freighted direct from the old The best time to visit Milwaukee is in country. Tim and Toni Eichinger, of Black summer, of course, for the music, art Husky Brewing, started the company and food festivals and panoramic views in a log cabin in 2010 and there’s still of Lake Michigan. You can’t leave without plenty of wood at the gleaming bar, and chowing on a bratwurst and two of the a chainsaw carving of a husky on hand best options are the Milwaukee Brat to make top brews like Sproose IPA, with House or The Vanguard, which puts a real spruce tips, taste even more piney. contemporary twist on traditional German wurst. But Braise Local Food, helmed Housed in the historic Milwaukee Gas by chef Dave Swanson, showcases the Light Company, City Lights Brewing paddock-to-plate produce of Wisconsin satisfies cultural and beer tourists. The in globally-influenced dishes such as taproom is a standout with wooden tables steamed pork buns with chives and and exposed beams and the coconut chickpea pancake with summer squash. porter - darkly decadent and sipped from Be sure to enjoy a craft cocktail before a Belgian goblet - takes some beating. being shown to your table. The one-off brews from the Brewers May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 27

HIS OWN MAN MIKE ZEKULICH IGNORING THE ADVICE OF OTHERS, TONY DEVITT CARVED OUT AN UNMATCHED CAREER IN THE WINE INDUSTRY. “DON’T go down that path son,” the senior Curiously, it all began with cricket, and the production of fine wines because of its WA Agriculture Department bureaucrat at in particular the ovals around Perth and outstanding environment and climate. the time told scientist Tony Devitt, “or else Adelaide where his wiry frame aided his you will end up in an agricultural backwater.” fast bowling action resulting in the taking The climax to Devitt’s studies at South of many wickets. Australia’s Roseworthy Agricultural He was referring to a position as College, where he graduated as Dux of winemaking and viticultural adviser to the After matches, Devitt and other players his course with First Class Honours in WA industry Devitt was about to apply for from university would often move on to Oenology, was to be awarded the Leo in 1972. Houghton in the Swan Valley for a post Buring Gold Medal presented by eminent match barbecue. That meant many hours scientist Sir Mark Oliphant. Fortunately for those in the industry, Devitt talking to WA’s winemaking doyen Jack ignored the advice and got the job he so Mann and listening to his robust words of Quite a result for a young man with no family badly wanted - as oenology and viticulturist wisdom on wine and life. wine history carrying the warning about his adviser for winemakers around the State - career going backwards with horticultural and beyond if need be. On agricultural matters, Devitt turned to studies if he continued down that path. his WA university degree supervisor, noted Nicknamed Roo by his cricketing mates, scientist Dr John Gladstones, the first man Now he recalls the moment with great the lean, lofty 74-year-old still passionate to formally identify Margaret River as an satisfaction for skills he achieved gave wine industry man of today, has proved ideal place to grow the grapes needed for him the knowledge to help others while himself a valuable industry asset on all fronts. rubbing shoulders with the world and 28 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

DEVITT KNEW HE WAS ON THE RIGHT PATH DURING HIS ROSEWORTHY STUDIES WHEN INVOLVED IN WORKING OVER THREE VINTAGES WITH SOME OF AUSTRALIA’S MOST SKILFUL AND KNOWLEDGEABLE PRODUCERS. Australian leaders in important industry representing the industry on the board October, 2013. affairs. of the Grape and Wine Research and International promotions and judging Development Corporation for several terms; Above all, Devitt wanted to produce quality being appointed by the WA government commitments in many regional and capital wines under the family label Ashbrook Estate. as interim chairman of the Wine Industry city competitions included 40 years at the Association of WA (now Wines of WA); Perth Royal Wine Show and three years in So the purchase of a prime 100ha block establishing the WA Vine Research South Africa. in Margaret River’s feted Willyabrup wine Improvement Association Inc; lecturing at area in 1975 led to the first plantings the Curtin University in Wine Science; being “I have enjoyed what I have done, following year and the inaugural vintage awarded a Centenary Medal in 2001 for especially helping with the improvement in 1979, along with enough property left to services to Primary Industry and being of wine quality from new southern WA graze commercial beef cattle. elected president of the Wine Press Club areas and seeing so many young people of WA for three years. becoming involved,” he said. As the vineyard flourished and impressive wines produced, Devitt knew he was His wide ranging activities also led to the But when Ashbrook came on stream on the right path during his Roseworthy awarding in 2008 of the prized Jack Mann in 1979, there was no fanfare, no ritzy studies when involved in working over Memorial Medal for his industry services. celebrations. Instead, the wines quietly three vintages with some of Australia’s appeared in the market place, Devitt not most skilful and knowledgeable producers, Devitt retired from the Agriculture wanting other producers to think he was including d’Arry Osborn, from d’Arenberg, Department’s top job in horticulture as getting any advantage from his strong Gerry Sissingh, Rothbury Estate and Tim Principal Officer Viticulture in 2004 and industry contributions over the years or Knappstein, Leasingham. sold his interest in Ashbrook Estate in in his role with the government, in fact the opposite was true. “I was lucky to be given the chance at Roseworthy so I vowed to give back as much as I could,” Devitt said. “My target was to work as hard as possible and visit every vineyard and winery in the country during the study period, which was a lot easier in those days.” Back in WA, he recalled it was exciting working with both traditional and new Swan Valley winemakers who were introducing new technologies. While wife Marnie worked in Perth liquor stores, he looked further afield such as getting the Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference staged in WA in 1983 for the first and only time; being instrumental in staging the Australian Wine Educators’ Conference in Margaret River; May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 29

A H E A DY B L E N D O F EQUINE CHAMPIONS AND FINE WINES SETS MUDGEE’S GOOREE PA R K A PA RT. 30 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

THOROUGHBREDS ON THE RIGHT TRACK HUGO McNEILL NESTLED in the Central Ranges on the are warm with plenty of sunshine and, western slopes of the Great Dividing importantly, its cold nights are conducive Range is the spectacular Mudgee wine to its grapes having a long, cool ripening region, about three-and-a-half-hours period - up to four weeks later than the northwest of Sydney. Hunter Valley. The brownish coloured soils are typical of those found through many With a viticultural history dating back of the wine regions of eastern Australia - to 1858, Mudgee is noted for producing well-drained sandy loam on top of clay robust and deeply coloured red wines, subsoils. especially shiraz. In addition it’s reputedly home to a particularly good clone of Home to over 50 vineyards and some chardonnay, thought to have been a 35 cellar doors, including the likes of descendant of the chardonnay introduced Robert Oatley Wines, Di Lusso Estate, to Australia by James Busby in 1832. David Lowe’s famed organic Lowe Wines and Botobolar Vineyard, Australia’s oldest The name “Mudgee” comes from the certified organic vineyard, there’s more to Aboriginal word “moothi” meaning “nest in Mudgee than first meets the eye. the hills”. Its vineyards range from between 450m-1100m above sea level, the days May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 31

Gooree Park Wines are every bit as well-bred as its champion horses, there are no sweaty-saddle reds, just succulent, black pepper, rich, spicy shiraz, classic, multi-layered cabernets and mellow, medium-bodied merlots.

WINE, WAGYU AND THOROUGHBREDS - AN IRRESISTIBLE COMBINATION Aside from its crystalline chardonnay and sauvignon and supplemented by whites there’s now like events planned for Derby traditional red varietals like shiraz, merlot such as chardonnay, semillon, sauvignon Day and Oaks Day, featuring a thoroughbred and cabernet sauvignon, Mudgee is home blanc and verdelho. horse parade of past and present Gooree to an equestrian and vinous paradise called champions and future hopefuls from the Gooree Park, one of Australia’s premier Cojuangco’s distinctive red and black stud’s stunning stables. horse studs and home to some equally fine striped racing colours have been famous thoroughbred wines. throughout Australia for over four decades, Just visit apps like Trip Advisor and you will having been carried by Group 1 winners see what I mean, it’s chock full of unrestrained The sprawling, bucolic property was such as Desert War, Hallowed Crown, praise - Gooree Park has added a whole new established in 1978 by noted Filipino Smart Missile, Prized Icon and Northern dimension to Mudgee tourism and is now businessman Eduardo Cojuangco, a long- Meteor. In tribute to his former thoroughbred a must-visit and fun-filled experience cum time and leading owner/breeder and patron champions, Cojuangco’s premium Gooree destination pretty much all year round. of racing in Australia. Park wines are invariably named after notable Gooree champions such as his Desert Regular stud tours rounded off by a wagyu Cojuangco’s links with Australian racing War Shiraz, Don Eduardo Shiraz Cabernet beef lunch and fine wine tasting are now date back to 1959 when he purchased Sauvignon, and Crowned Glory Shiraz and a feature of life at Gooree Park as are the his first horse and eventually acquired Crowned Glory Chardonnay. unique cellar door experiences to be had at his Australian base, Gooree Park Stud on the original cellar door on the stud property Castlereagh Highway west of Mudgee. Today And, much to my surprise, thoroughbred and at the newly opened second Gooree some 300 horses reside at Gooree, including horses and fine wine blend beautifully and Park cellar door Gooree + Pantry at 48 Market mares, foals, yearlings and thoroughbreds. are a compelling attraction to the many who St in the heart of Mudgee town. attend the annual Melbourne Cup at Gooree He has since developed and expanded Park extravaganza, now in its 7th year and Previous page: Melbourne Cup at Gooree thoroughbred it to over 6,500 breathtakingly beautiful hosted by the likes of TV personality and horse parade in action. hectares incorporating a magnificent Mudgee local, Ken Sutcliffe. Above: Gooree Park Wines current wine line-up, horse stud, a wagyu cattle breeding available for tasting daily at both Cellar Door locations. farm and 445ha of vines planted to red This key gala is often sold-out well in Page 36 bottom left: Guests sit back and relax in our varietals, including shiraz, merlot, cabernet advance and has proven so popular that Gooree bean bags during Flavours of Mudgee. Page 36 bottom right: Gooree Park Wines Manager – Jackie Conroy at the Opening of the Gooree Cellar + Pantry. May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 33

IT’S ALL ABOUT FINE THOROUGHBRED WINES AND EQUINES And Gooree Park wines are every bit as What makes Gooree Park so alluring is a at Gooree Park. There is something magic, well-bred as its champion horses, there heady combination of the property’s rustic, are no sweaty-saddle reds, just succulent, idyllic beauty, the warmth and hospitality of ethereal and compelling about the place black pepper, rich, spicy shiraz, classic, its staff and the sheer buzz one gets from multi-layered cabernets and mellow, being around horses, in part exhilarating, and the people that compel you to keep medium-bodied merlots. There’s even an or conversely calming, among lovers of all alluring 2015 Sparking Shiraz which pairs that’s equestrian and vinous. coming back. You know you are on a short- beautifully with the wagyu beef burgers. As Gooree Park’s Jackie Conroy says: odds winner with Gooree Park, so saddle It’s often said in equestrian circles that “making a fine horse is like making fine “horses are not our whole lives, but they wine; it takes time, knowledge, experience up, head for Mudgee’s hills and make make our lives whole” - the same could be and an absolute dedication to your craft.” said of fine wine. sure you treat yourself to an unforgettable And if anyone should know, it’s the folks experience. Above: Guests enjoying prelude to Melbourne Cup festivities. Top left: Ken Sutcliffe and Sylvia Jefferies enjoy a Gooree Bubbles at Opening night of Gooree Cellar + Pantry. Bottom right: Future Champions of the track, enjoying time with mum at Gooree’s picturesque Stud property. 34 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

A young wine is like a horse, it is extremely vibrant. It needs taming. It has lots of life, the edges need bevelling and we need to reduce the tannins. - Georg Riedel. May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 35

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS NO sooner than Brit chef Simon British offerings - salad with truffle and get their fix with chargrilled chicken Rogan opened his much anticipated Westcombe cheese, for example - and and lamb, and carb lovers will tuck into Aulis restaurant, he followed up with nice nods to Hong Kong-inspired dishes the homemade bread served warm with Roganic, next door. While Aulis has that such as sea urchin custard topped with fresh butter. Mr Brown, G/F, 9 Ship St, experimental, wacky tasting menu vibe fresh uni and fritter of confit chicken and Wan Chai, Hong Kong; phone +852 to it - and only seats 12 guests - Roganic squid ink crumbs. Choose between the 3101 1081. prides itself on ingredients sourced from 10-course Roganic Long Taster menu local farms, which is quite something in ($HK980, $A180) or the eight-course After a brief hiatus, chef Que Vinh urban Hong Kong. With fellow British Short Taster menu ($HK680, $A125), Dang is back on the scene with a new chef Oli Marlow overseeing the kitchen, both with optional wine pairings, while Vietnamese fusion joint, Nhau. More the menu is a fun combination of deeply a three-course set lunch menu is also casual than high end, Que’s food is available for $HK280 ($A50). Diners essentially sharing-style snacks meant to with a sweet tooth (and high tolerance be consumed with plentiful booze. Think for sugar) can also opt for the dessert quirky dishes such as banh mi rice tacos tasting menu ($HK480, $A90) where an to fried chicken with homemade sriracha array of elaborate creations will arrive or beef tartare with crispy tendon. For such as yellow beetroot sorbet and the dessert, don’t miss the Southeast Asian- unmissable stout, molasses and burnt style sundae, with DIY ingredients from milk dessert. Roganic, UG/F 08, Sino sticky honeycomb to pandan ice cream. Plaza, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Situated in still-very-cool Sheung Wan, Bay, Hong Kong; phone +852 2817 8383. Nhau brings a slice of much-needed Anyone with a penchant for hummus funky Vietnam to Hong Kong. Nhau, 12 and harissa (which is to say most Hong Circular Pathway, Central, Hong Kong; Kong people) must have beaten a path to phone +852 3612 4568. Middle Eastern eatery Francis sometime in the last year and now the team have Top: The team from Mr Brown restaurant. done it again with Mr Brown, located Left, above & below: Delicious dishes from Roganic restaurant. just round the corner. Below right: Food from Nhau restaurant. Head chef Israeli Asher Goldstein again doesn’t disappoint, with a mouthwatering barbecue-driven menu with all dishes complemented with an exciting array of dips and sides. There’s also a few surprises, too, such as unexpected raw delights of hamachi, leek ash and grilled avocado, but unapologetic meat eaters will certainly 36 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

DRAGON GOWN is a new brand under Dragon King Group. Compared with Dragon King Restaurant, Dragon Gown attaches greater importance to food appearance and dining environment. Like emperor’s gown, it must have splendid appearance and emphasizes comfort and health. To be sure, it is our foremost mission to assure food quality and quantity. Dragon Gown aims to receive local and overseas business guests. In internal design, Dragon Gown offers a diversity of dining table matching, simple and fashionable to meet diversified needs of reception and banquet. In dish design, we choose freshest food materials in combination with our conception of innovation and special style to present new generation Cantonese food. Take Poached Rice with Lobster Soup for example. We make Lobster Soup and serve it with Steamed Rice and Deep-fried Rice to create an irresistible flavor. Deep-fried Rice is crisp and refreshing and gives out a rustling sound when meeting hot Soup. Address: Shop Nos. 2C and 2D, 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Telephone no.: 852 – 2180 6533 Working hours: Monday to Saturday 11:00am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm Sunday and Public Holidays 10:00am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm DRAGON SEAL is located on F101 of International Commerce Centre (ICC) in West Kowloon. As the third highest building in the world. For any type of activities or banquets, we can provide most suitable venue for you. Enjoying the charming seaview of Victoria Harbor, the dining hall serves as the best place for holding various types of ceremonies and celebrating unforgettable days. In addition, Dragon Seal is a preferred choice for enterprise cocktail party, anniversary celebration and private parties. In addition to pursuit for delicious diet taste, Dragon Seal is also particular in promoting diet culture of sound, color and art. Our group CEO Mr. Wong Wing Chee was born in a chef family. In his childhood, he was influenced by what he constantly saw and heard. Constant research of cuisine nurtured his unique and innovative thinking. In his opinion, food quality is very important and dining environment is also most important. He attaches great importance to man-to-man interaction and restaurant decoration. He pays special attention to comfortable seats, lighting and distribution as well as the interaction of tableware and tabletop, including the fresh flower on the dining table. Therefore, you will never feel disappointed when dining in Dragon Seal. Address: Shop C, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Telephone no.: 852 – 2568 9886 Working hours: Monday to Sunday 11:30am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING THERE'S been a spate of restaurants that of The Butcher’s Block and are identified with T-bone morphs into bistecca. The buzzy started in the burbs opening spin-offs in their regional names from Riverina angus eye the CBD. The latest entrant to try its luck in fillet to a 350g chunk of grain fed rib steak atmosphere and the fact that a large part the Big Smoke is The Butcher’s Block, a from Margaret River. Keeping things simply Wahroonga stalwart that started life in an good, accompaniments range from a choice of the restaurant is ear-marked for walk-ins old butcher’s shop. Located in the former of house-made sauces, including green premises of Ete in Barangaroo, there’s little peppercorn and bearnaise, to hand-cut chips gives Alberto’s a truly European feel. A great to remind diners of the former occupant or and green salad. The same sides also go with the original rustic-style cafe. Following a the signature rib dishes cooked for 12 hours, choice of Tuscan and Sicilian wines, and multi-million-dollar reno, old style butcher’s barbecued and glazed. You can choose from posts contrast with exposed brick, gleaming half or full racks of juicy options such as lamb second-to-none cannoli guarantee a return wood and metal, carefully choreographed ribs with soy and ginger glaze harissa and greenery and soft mood lighting. pork ribs with smoked maple glaze. visit. Alberto’s Lounge. 17-19, Alberta St, The kitchen is helmed by executive chef The wine and drinks list is extensive and Sydney; visit www.albertoslounge.com. Dan Rudolph, a veteran of local hotspots caters for every taste, from casual drinkers Quay and Est and Guy Savoy’s Michelin to wine lovers, weaving through Australia with Tayim is yet another revamp. This time of three-star establishment in Paris. Like many the odd addition of French, Italian and even downtown restaurants, all day dining is on a Lebanese bottling from the Bekaa Valley. the old Scarlett Restaurant of the gorgeously offer seven days a week. We arrived on a Desserts are hearty if you have the room. We blisteringly hot day and many of the outside did and shared a warm brioche pudding with renovated Harbour Rocks Hotel, now a tables were filled with office workers from the brandy anglaise and a really rich tiramisu of nearby tower blocks sipping on cocktails mascarpone vanilla mousse and coffee ripple luxurious MGallery boutique property such as French martinis and The Butcher’s ice cream. Warm, relaxing yet refined. The Mistress, a blend of Tanqueray gin, lychee, Butcher’s Block, Shop 2/100 Barangaroo Ave, by Sofitel. Sydney architects, Welsh + lime, sugar syrup and basil. Barangaroo; phone (020) 9043 1369. Major, have designed a heritage space Given his impressive resume, Rudolph Throw out any prejudices about the word adopts a seasonal approach to the menus. lounge - airport or singer - when approaching of scrubbed sandstone and plush wall Because of the round-the-clock opening Alberto’s Lounge. I was sad when Berta, the hours, burgers are a feature for those after former restaurant on the site, closed because hangings. Head chef Ran Kimelfeld, a sophisticated yet filling meal. Two men at it was like a little hideaway in the heart of the another table were hoeing into the wagyu beef city, tucked away in Alberta St just off the formerly of Nour, presides over the moreish burger, a sumptuous feast of jack cheese, bustle of Elizabeth St. double beef, rocket, oxheart tomato, red onion Middle Eastern menu. and bacon aioli, and the pork katsu burger of The Swillhouse Group is in charge - Baxter crumbed loin, pulled pork, red oak lettuce, Inn, Frankie’s Pizza and Restaurant Hubert - There’s a stong emphasis on share tonkatsu aioli and furikake. and the mood and menu is Italian to the core, with a slight Aussie overlay. The retro enoteca plates - naturally. Think grilled sardine The manager is Italian and most of the decor is anchored by a copious number of serving staff are European who unfailingly wine bottles, banquets and classic Italian shakshuk, mushroom borekas and sumac- call everyone - guys. Liver parfait is still movie posters on the walls, but looks very having a moment and I started my textbook contemporary. Dan Pepperell, ex-10 William cured kingfish. GM Reuvin Lim, whose CV three-course meal with a silky duck parfait Street, leads the kitchen brigade and his accompanied by pancetta jam, house talent is as finely honed as ever. includes Tequila Mockingbird and Cho Cho pickles and grilled sourdough. For anyone in a hurry, The Butcher’s Block plate for two Dishes look small but they are filling, San has selected wines from Turkey, France, - charcuterie, olives, pickles, duck parfait, especially rarely seen delights like trippa goat’s feta and pancetta jam - represents alla romana. Pasta fans can take a deep Italy and Australia to match the hearty fast food at its finest. dive with bucatini all’amatriciana and spaghetti alla sarde with its deeply flavoured Middle Eastern flavours such as Yamba Seafood is a strong focus given the mix of sardines, fennel, currants and pine proximity of the harbour, from entrees such nuts. A 600g chunk of Rangers Valley prawns in harissa and kangaroo kebabs as seared hiramasa kingfish, charred witlof, pomelo lime and jalapeno dressing, to main with mint, oregano and paprika. acts such as Moreton Bay bug and pipis spaghettini “swimming” in seafood bisque We had a small share plate because and blue swimmer crab with red chilli, green shallot and fried buns. we were very tempted by the mains and Prime cuts of meat push home the heritage plumped for lamb shoulder with white bean musabbana. A spoonful of the semolina rose pudding was a reminder that in the Arabic world a woman with a smooth, pale complexion is complimented by saying that her skin looks like a milk pudding. Open all day, the Middle Eastern deli breakfast has attracted a strong following. Tayim, 34 Harrington St, The Rocks; phone (02) 8220 9952. Top left & right: Food from The Butcher’s Block. Below: Interior of The Butcher’s Block, Barangaroo. 38 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN MELBOURNE has always had a sense looking for flexibility and fresh, well-cooked discovered and fell in love with the Gippsland of sophistication about it and despite produce. 1 Melrose St, Sandringham; region; from the wild coast abundant with its rapid growth as a city, none of that is baiadivino.com.au. seafood to the rich farmland and award- waning, quite the opposite. It’s growing winning wines. In championing Gippsland at such a rate that beautiful restaurants, Chef Alejandro Saravia - co-owner of produce at his restaurant, he was given developments and events spaces are CBD restaurant, Pastuso, has long been an the title of “official food and beverage opening up or being planned all over the Ambassador for Victoria’s Gippsland region ambassador” for the region. His connection city to accommodate a growing population in the state’s east and he recently announced to and admiration for the Gippsland region and a hungry dining audience. that he is opening a new farm-to-table is manifested in the creation of Farmer’s restaurant concept, Farmer’s Daughters Daughters. 80 Collins St, Melbourne. Bayside suburb Sandringham will in the QICGRE’s highly anticipated circa welcome Mediterranean restaurant, bar $800 million mixed-use development in An unusually warm autumn night saw the and wine store Baia Di Vino. Melbourne’s CBD. Saravia will join Martin launch of the new events space about Asian Benn, Vicky Wild and Chris Lucas at favourite Chin Chin on Flinders Lane. Literally translating to “wine bay,” Baia Di 80 Collins, scheduled for completion in Vino is set to be a contemporary expression 2020. The development at 80 Collins is Simply named Chin Chin events, the of the simple European coastal life, and a transformative project for Melbourne, enormous room is a private event space Sandringham proves to be the perfect providing a new precinct that connects to the that can accommodate up to 100 people setting with its proximity to the beach. identity and energy of the city. Saravia’s focus for a seated event and 160 for a stand-up of Farmer’s Daughters extends beyond the cocktail affair. This is the second venue from the team city and into greater Victoria, with all produce behind Malvern East’s, Riserva and being sourced from the region of Gippsland. Owner Chris Lucas is tapping into his owners, Frank Ciorciari (Riserva, Sette strong kitchen team, led by executive chef Bello, Cafe Di Stasio, Mercedes McLaren QICGRE’s mission is to shine a global light Benjamin Cooper who fed the crowd a Formula 1), Anthony Silvestre (Kettle on local excellence, Farmer’s Daughters large selection of canapes, including an Black) and Gian Chiaravalle’s (Riserva, intends to celebrate the diversity and oyster station, corn fritters and kingfish Arco) vision has been brought to life by quality of produce found in Gippsland. sashimi with lime, chilli, coconut and Thai interior architect, Samantha Eades Design. Farmer’s Daughters will span three floors basil, all dishes available on the events of the 80 Collins development, including menus. The space has two adjacent dining Banquette seating lines the ocean-facing prominent street frontage on Exhibition St rooms that can be booked individually window, accented by a tiled floor, vaulted and will feature a rooftop restaurant and or combined to accommodate larger ceiling with timber beams, signature marble urban food farm. Each level of Farmer’s exclusive events. Level 1, 125 Flinders Lane, bar top and a French-wash paint finish on Daughters will have its own identity. There’s Melbourne; phone (03) 8663 2000. the walls. Head chef and co-owner Dino a more formal main restaurant open for Mohsin (Riserva, Rockpool Bar & Grill) lunch and dinner (complete with private Top right: Stuffed calamari, cous cous, tomato has crafted a menu with a strong nod to dining rooms). The ground floor deli will and black olive salsa, oregano from Baia Di Vino European dining with contemporary twists. offer a casual farm-to-table experience, restaurant, photo credit Jake Roden. Think tuna tartar, pickled daikon and betel highlighting seasonal Gippsland produce Top left: Fried sardine, fennel cream, orange emulsion leaf, Burrata, wood-fire roasted capsicum, with dishes to share, including homemade from Baia Di Vino restaurant. cherry tomato, caper berries and basil charcuterie, cured fish, cheese plates and Below: Dish selection from Baia Di Vino restaurant, Brodetto Di Pesce - scampi, king prawn, seasonally-driven salads and sandwiches photo credit Jake Roden. Cloudy Bay clams, Port Arlington mussels, alongside a full retail/take-home offer. scallop, squid, prawn broth, and the classic Maltagliati braised lamb, Sicilian On the roof, guests can sit among herb green olives and pangrattato. gardens and greenhouses, enjoying open- air dining with views Accompanying the food offering will be across the CBD. an extensive, European-led wine menu The rooftop menu crafted by sommelier and co-owner will concentrate Vivian Man (formerly of Rockpool Bar & on preserved and Grill) which will see a dedicated wine-by- fermented vegetable- the-glass offering and premium selection led snacks with a low- available via a Coravin system. It’s proving waste approach. to be a favourite with the Bayside crowd Saravia arrived in Melbourne in 2014 and opened his successful Peruvian restaurant Pastuso. Not long after he May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 39

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS ORSO has been Adelaide’s most exciting Bushing King some four decades ago, wine. Serafino, Kangarilla Rd, McLaren Vale. restaurant opening for the year so far, having an honour he’s repeated three times in his Open for lunch Thursday-Sunday, dinner been two years in the making by chef- extraordinary career, Steve (Serafino) daily; phone (08) 8323 8911. restaurateur Andre Ursini. Maglieri has been one the region’s most respected winemakers. Coccobello also represents an expansion Ursini’s previous, and ongoing restaurant, by one of Adelaide’s most successful Andre’s Cucina & Polenta Bar, has long been So when he took over the former restaurateurs, this time Lauro Siliquini, co- a city favourite. Solidly Italian in style, it quickly McLarens on the Lake and renamed its owner of perennial crowd-pleasing favourites moved beyond polenta to include a hugely restaurant Serafino, as well as making it Ruby Red Flamingo and Tony Tomatoes, plus popular menu of mostly traditional dishes. the headquarters for his Serafino Wines, it the ever-changing single dish diner currently was no surprise that he made sure the food trading as Spaghetti Meatballs. Orso (which means “bear” in Italian), while matched his reputation for wine. still having an Italian flavour, has a menu Before venturing into restaurant ownership, that swings through a much wider arc of That was achieved very early on, but Siliquini was one of Adelaide’s most Mediterranean influences. Head chef Will successive chefs have continued to raise recognised Italian waiters, so he really does Doak oversees a spectacular open kitchen, the bar, with new chef Daniel Armon more know what works and what doesn’t. Here at with a wood grill and Josper oven providing than meeting that challenge. Lifting what was Coccobello, he’s put everything he knows much culinary fire. already a very competent menu, Amon now to work in creating a very solid and reliable presides over what is now one of the best in neighbourhood restaurant. The dishes are grouped as snacks - the a region already endowed with a string of crunchy croquette filled with creamy potato very high calibre winery restaurants. Serafino He’s given it a very distinct personality plus and taleggio cheese, with a Calabrese is not to be outdone in its location, either, a menu of all-time favourite Italian dishes chilli sauce is the go here; smaller - look for with windows covering a sweeping view of cooked just like mamma used to make them. a new take on beef tartare with chopped manicured lawns, a vast dam and its many Sprawling through several rooms, despite waygu rump cap, roasted hazelnuts, feathered inhabitants. Although you could its contemporary styling, Coccobello feels preserved lemons and capers; and pasta - lunch here quickly, it really is a place where very Italian from its amiable and competent try the braised rabbit ragu on broad strips you can relax and linger a while. floor staff to classic dishes such as tortellini of pappardelle with fried sage. Then it’s time in brodo, handmade by the chef’s wife, for the larger dishes, when you can see Armon draws on his extensive regional whose simple appearance disguises its what they do with the wood grill - that could experience, as well as his large kitchen fabulous flavours. be a 9+ waygu rump with spiced beetroot; garden, in taking familiar Italian dishes into and the Josper oven, where the standout new territory. These include dishes such as Another don’t-miss dish is the pan-seared dish has to be the stunning whole flounder a charred zucchini flower filled with smoked wild barramundi stacked high with really dressed with a powerfully flavoured Italian- eggplant puree and a smear of smoked good roasted tomatoes, red onions and style XO sauce. tahini on the side, topped with toasted croutons - and of course there’s a long list buckwheat and chopped tomato. of pizzas from a monster-sized oven that Orso is a gorgeously designed space, can contain up to 18 pizzas at a time, and with terrific noise control despite its size There are perfect rounds of house-made all the pasta is house-made. Terrific value, and space, whose style extends into the goat’s cheese panna cotta with smoked lots of fun. Coccobello, 209 Glen Osmond adjoining Wilmott’s Gastronomia, a bar and almonds, vanilla oil and baby cos, while Rd, Frewville. Open for lunch Friday, dinner enoteca named after the family butcher’s main courses include pan-seared smoked Tuesday-Saturday; phone (08) 7225 9599. shop that once occupied this former duck breast with a Davidson plum jus and corner shop. It makes a pleasant spot pumpkin puree. Top left: Flounder with XO sauce from Orso restaurant. for a pre (or post) dinner drink. Orso, 36 Top right: Wagyu beef from Orso restaurant. Kensington Rd, Rose Park. Open for lunch Perhaps the most sensational dish comes Below left: Goats cheese panna cotta from Serafino and dinner Tuesday-Saturday, brunch right at the end, a dessert of smoked chocolate restaurant. Sunday; phone (08) 8364 1008. mousse with blueberry sorbet, sour cherry Below right: Smoky dessert from Serafino restaurant. foam and shards of cocoa nib glass served Since he was first named McLaren Vale’s in a smoke-filled Terremoto (“earthquake”) wine box, celebrating Serafino’s signature 40 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL THE Sunshine State is known for a few Bouchon, a sassy little French bistro between the large wine shop and the fresh things - sunshine being one of them, and and neighbouring cafe, Three Girls fruit and veggie displays of the shopping abundant fish and crustaceans being Skipping, helped bring smart dining emporium, in the centre of which is a giant another. The north of the state yields ocean and great coffee to the locale but it was circular counter divided into two - seafood icons like red emperor, coral trout and the Trish Walker’s Hunter & Scout that set the at the front and charcuterie and cheeses at mighty barramundi, while the South East “brunch alot” crowd singing the praises the rear. A sushi chef deftly carves the daily and surrounds offer a plethora of shellfish of this delightful garden oasis. catch into magnificent morsels for nigiri, such as Moreton Bay bugs, Mooloolaba king sashimi and the like, which can be eaten prawns and deliciously delicate little oysters Now daughter Maddison, who also runs in-house or as a takeaway. also from Moreton Bay and from the pristine the events at Hunter & Scout, has taken the rivers of northern New South Wales. space nearby for her new project - Botellon, Both sections produce items for the menu a Spanish-inspired wine bar. Botellon means in the more casual dining area, complete with It is this local bounty, supplemented by “big bottle” and according cold-climate offerings from up and down the to Maddy, this is inspiration wood-fired pizza oven, open kitchen and bar. eastern seaboard that made up the menu at enough for good times to be From the seafood counter comes everything The Fish House, overlooking the famous surf had at the casual, heritage- from squid ink spaghetti with WA scampi break at Burleigh Heads. listed corner tenancy. and garlic crumbs, cold seafood platters, seafood laksa, fish and chips and tataki of Chef Daniel Miletic perfected his seafood Due to open mid-year, the Mooloolaba tuna. game at this Gold Coast favourite restaurant menu will feature dishes like before city-changing to Brisbane to open his whole baked fish and lots It’s the same breadth of offering from the first venue with wife Amelia. of small plates designed to butchery and charcuterie sections - steaks, share. The neighbourhood is roast lamb, spatchcocks with sides of One Fish, Two Fish opened recently in family-oriented, so Walker is vegetables cooked with mainly Euro-inspired Kangaroo Point and the menu reads like a keen to ensure early dining flavours, and if that isn’t enough choice then hearty “Yes, Please!” to about every holiday options and quality, kid-friendly there’s a menu of semolina-crusted pizzas of seafood dish your heart could desire. Among items are also front and centre bianca and rossa. 3/30 King St, Bowen Hills; the “hook, line & starters” is an enticing mix of along with a carefully selected phone (07) 3112 7168. Australian classics - think local tiger prawns list of both local, national and on a toasted bun with lime aioli and cajun old world wines. 327 Honour Top left: Burgers from One Fish, Two Fish. fish tacos with mango and avocado sliders, Ave, Graceville. Right, above & below: Seafood from One Fish, Two or the delectable sounding soft shell crab Fish restaurant. slider with slaw and sriracha mayo. King Street is an ever expanding foodie mecca There’s a posh section and a traditional anchored by Montrachet, section of mains - the former listing pot au feu one of Brisbane’s most loved of shellfish in a saffron broth, salt baked fish French brasseries. There’s with potato bake and a knock out seafood plenty of dining diversity with risotto finished with basil and dry vermouth. The Lamb Shop, a super Old-school offerings of local whiting and popular family-style option, the fries, and crumbed calamari vie for a place colourful El Camino Cantino next to healthy options like grilled salmon from the Rockpool Group with quinoa and tomato salad, and a poke and spicy Vietnamese flavours from Banoi, bowl of rice noodles, edamame, daikon and all neighbours along the same strip. Now seaweed, to which you can add raw kingfish. comes Mercado, a vast, mosaic-clad And no self-respecting fish joint would be emporium where you can buy your groceries complete without paying homage to the in style, grab a coffee, eat pizza straight from humble spud - five varieties of potato dishes the wood-fired oven, or have a multi-course are on offer - fat and thin fries, potato scallops duck degustation in the specially designed and a potato bake with spicy nduja. 708 Main dine-in Duck Room, complete with hanging St, Kangaroo Point; phone (07) 3391 7680. displays, carving stations and a sommelier who will talk you through wine choices that Residents of the leafy enclave of Chelmer, will marry with dishes like smoked duck Graceville and Corinda, across the famous nigiri, dry-aged duck with broccolini and Indooroopilly Bridge in Brisbane’s west, have duck four ways, including Peking duck long lamented the lack of good places to eat. pancakes, duck and miso soups, roasted duck with pickled cucumber and duck frame with chilli jam. The Duck Room sits May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 41

winewords J O M A R S H W I N E M A K E R - B I L LY B U T T O N W I N E S SKYE MURTAGH 2019 marks 20 years since Jo Marsh job with Southcorp (now TWE) straight out Alternative varietals are definitely walked into her first lecture at the University of university. The experience I gained there resonating with wine consumers right of Adelaide’s Waite Campus to kick off an was a great introduction to the industry. now. Why do you think that is? ag science (oenology) degree - a path I think people enjoy diversity. We have such chosen not because of an all-consuming How do you think possibilities a wide range of cuisines and options for passion for wine itself (she admits she for women just embarking in the dining out and takeaway, I think it follows didn’t even drink wine when she started winemaking field are different today? on that people are looking for variety with her tertiary studies), but more that she I think the possibilities have always been their beverages as well. thought it could quite simply “be an there if you were prepared to push hard interesting job”. It was a hunch that has enough, but there has been a lot more As a winemaker investing time, money more than paid off, taking her to some of focus and raising of awareness recently and energy into producing alternative the world’s most renowned wine regions to which has made the path easier. or emerging varietals, where do you expand her craft before seeing her set up think the challenges lie in ensuring shop in the burgeoning Alpine Valleys wine Tell us about Billy Button. What’s the their longevity in the market? region of Victoria. Here she’s producing story behind the name? I think alternative variety wines rely heavily a diverse range of wines, including a I started Billy Button in 2014 because I felt on the on-premise and direct-to-customer number of alternative varieties, under her it was time to do my own thing, but also channels, further education is required to own brand, Billy Button. because at that time many growers in the build the retail channel. region were struggling to sell their grapes Looking back, what are your thoughts and good fruit was being picked into the Tell us about the grape sourcing for all about the timing of when you launched ground. I wanted to do something to help, Billy Button Wines. into the winemaking world? and I thought that starting my own label I source my grapes from about 10 vineyards I think I’ve been very lucky with my timing to promote the region was the best way I across the Alpine Valleys. I have a great as I finished my degree a couple of years could. Billy Button is named after the native relationship with my growers and I think before a big increase in graduates and daisies that colour the mountain tops of the that’s key to the quality of the wines. I managed to land a graduate winemaker region over summer. started Billy Button to promote the Alpine Valleys so it will always remain an Alpine Why choose the Alpine Valleys as the Valleys brand (except for my riesling from region to make your own wines? the Croucher vineyard in the King Valley, It’s just such an amazing region. I had only it’s a special case because it’s an amazing been here for six weeks when I knew this vineyard and I love riesling so much). I have was the region I wanted to sink my roots everything I could want for in this region, so into, so I bought a block of land and started there’s no need to look further afield. building a house. It’s a spectacularly gorgeous region with friendly, collaborative Working with individual vineyards to people with innovative attitudes and most source fruit, what kind of relationship importantly produces fantastic fruit from a is required with the grape growers to diverse range of varieties. ensure both camps can operate with confidence? What is it about what you’re producing I have a very close relationship with my with Billy Button that’s making people growers that I’ve been building for five come back for more? years. They’re the reason the brand is such I think the range of varieties is very a success, providing me with amazing appealing to people, they can discover quality fruit year in, year out. It’s also something new. I’m also very conscious of important to be flexible in a more marginal making my wines in a friendly, approachable region like this, so I’ll always work with them style without compromising on quality and to achieve the best result for both parties. hopefully longevity. It’s a symbiotic relationship. 42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

Even with all your experience in How do you think the Alpine Valleys What products in the Billy Button the game before going out on your region is placed in the collective stable are you most excited about own, what were the most unexpected Australian wine consumer’s mind? right now? challenges you faced working on your I think most of the Australian wine industry That’s a very hard one - they all excite me own brand? have not heard of the Alpine Valleys, let or I wouldn’t be making them! I’m about to It was a very quick decision to start alone the wine consumer, so the growth release my first reserve wines which are Billy Button, without much research or opportunities are huge. At the moment, basically my favourite or most interesting preparation (ie none) so I guess everything the majority of fruit grown in the region is parcel of white and red each vintage: the was unexpected! Cash flow has been the purchased by wineries outside the region first releases are a 2017 extended skin biggest challenge, it’s been great to grow so it would be great to see more producers ferment friulano and a 2017 tempranillo. I’m so quickly, but it costs money to make within the region. really looking forward to seeing how they’ll more wine. be received. The tempranillo has already What keeps your passion for the wine won two gold medals from two shows, so What’s been one of your biggest “wins” industry alive? I’m quite excited about it. at Billy Button so far? The people; the diversity. There’s nothing My biggest wins have been the cellar door else I’d rather be doing. What was the most recent top drop you and winery. Since opening the dedicated had and why was it a stand out? Cellar Door in Bright two years ago, it’s Who’s new in the winemaking game? Unfortunately I can’t afford to buy much completely changed my business and Who’s exciting you about the industry’s wine at the moment, so I do wine swaps has become a major source of income, future? at any opportunity. I swapped a dozen I’m not sure I’d still be here without it, or I’m just generally excited by the number with Justin Purser from Bests and have my amazing cellar door manager Grant of winemakers starting their own labels, really enjoyed the selection, some really Williams. Two years ago I also managed making wines they want to make and doing interesting blends along with some single to secure a long-term lease on an old hop it for the love of it. A wave of producers vineyard shiraz that I didn’t know they processing factory, a large double brick driven by passion, not by profit. produced. Very innovative wines for such building that is just perfect for a winery. To a traditional, established winery. have my own space has just been amazing. Where do you hope to be as a business in another five years? Profitable! Sustainable. Maybe with a few more employees so I can have some time off now and then. May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 43

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 44 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 MEMBER 2003 Not Released EVENTS 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque MAY 2019 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 Mainfreight International Worlds Greatest 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 Shiraz Challenge XIV 1993 $90 1991 $850  National Wine Centre, Adelaide 1994 $120 1992 $270 Friday 24 May, 2019 (6 - 8.30pm) 1995 $110 1993 $240 Tickets: [email protected] 1996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  AUGUST 2019 1998 $160  1996 $260 1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 Emerging & Alternative Varietals 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 National Wine Centre, Adelaide 2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 Friday 2 August, 2019 (6 - 8.30pm) 2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 Tickets: [email protected] 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 SEPTEMBER 2019 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 Winestate Wine of the Year 2019 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 Subscriber Tasting 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 National Wine Centre, Adelaide 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 Friday 27 September 2019 (6 - 8.30pm) 2011 $110 2002 $500 Tickets: [email protected] Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco NOVEMBER 2019 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 HONG KONG - Winestate Wines of Australia 1993 $550  1992 Not Released HK Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 1994 $340 7-9 November 2019 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 Details at: www.hktdc.com 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 HONG KONG - Winestate Corporate 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 Tasting Event 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  November 7-9 2019 1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 More details mid-2019 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  Email: [email protected] 1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 Winestate Wine of the Year 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released Awards Lunch (Australia) 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released Adelaide Convention Centre 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 Date to be advised 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released By Invitation only 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 (Trade Only and VIP Guests) Chateau Latour Invitations sent September 2019 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia Winestate Wine of the Year 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  Awards Lunch (New Zealand) 1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia Date and venue to be advised 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 By Invitation only 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 (Trade Only & VIP Guests) 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 Invitations sent September 2019 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 JOIN US TODAY! 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 By becoming a Winestate Member 2000 $190  you will receive complimentary 2002 $200 tickets to our events! 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 45

wine investment & collecting AUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts wine being sold. These strong results were a direct correlation to the quality MW WINES MW WINES of wine being brought in by our vendors. (JANUARY AND FEBRUARY 2019 Iconic Australian wines such as Grange, May 15 - 22 AU C T I O N R E P O R T, b y A N T H O N Y Bin 707, Rockford Basket Press, Birks (submissions close May 11) CAPUTI) Wendouree Shiraz and Mount Mary June 12 - 19 June (submissions THE start of the new year saw the Quintet, among others, achieved final close June 8) strength of the secondary market hammer prices significantly higher than persist, with MW Wines continuing their reserves, and the buyer excitement STERLING WINE to provide auction buyers with some flowed through to other regions such stunning buying opportunities and as Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne Live on-line auctions run every subsequently, maintaining strong results and Barolo. two weeks, back-to-back, finishing for vendors. Following on from the most While Penfolds wines are the most heavily on Wednesday evening. Visit successful year in our history in 2018, traded in the secondary market, there are sterlingwine.com.au for latest January and February continued the a number of other iconic Australian wines catalogue information. trend with over $800,000 in sales spread that we saw perform exceedingly well over the two auctions. in our January and February auctions. (All dates are subject to change We began 2019 with a bang! What is First, to Birks Wendouree, where there without notice). traditionally a quiet time of year due to appears no end in sight to the demand vendors and buyers being on holidays, for the wines from this producer. While turned into our best ever January sale, the shiraz is heavily sought after, we’re with more than $485,000 worth of wine pleased to report the strength of the so- changing hands at a healthy clearance called second tier wines. A number of rate of just over 66 per cent. The bottles of cabernet malbec were on offer, February catalogue was a little smaller, with some solid prices achieved - $97 for however a clearance rate of 65 per cent both the 2013 and 2014 vintages and $92 led to in excess of $345,000 in value of for the 2016 vintage. Several vintages of shiraz malbec performed very well, with the 1997 easily exceeding expectations with a final hammer price of $109, while the 2012, 2015 and 2016 sold for $115, $87 and $97 respectively. Finally, on to the shiraz and there were some pleasing results, with the 2004 peaking at $172 and the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 all selling for $166. The quintessential bordeaux blend that is Mount Mary Quintet has long been admired by wine lovers and some of the results achieved in January and February are testament to this. The 1992 vintage sold for $109, the 1994 reached $126, the 1995 and 1996 both peaked at a remarkable $184, while the 1997 sold for $120 and the stunning 1998 reached $161. The 2000 vintage achieved an impressive $166, the 2004 a final hammer price of $149 with the 2006 and 2010 vintages peaking at $143. 46 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

wine investment & collecting The wines from Domaine de la Romanee reporting on the results of these auctions For me, wine is love, art and passion Conti are revered across the globe and in Winestate’s next edition. If you are (with a little smidge of science) at its we were fortunate to put up a number interested in either buying or selling with best - genius in a bottle. Over the years, of bottles across January and February. us, contact any of our team on (03) 9419 we’ve seen art and craft push the wine The highlight was an outstanding bottle 6990. Please note that all prices above package into a space that can rival the of 1999 Romanee Conti vineyard, which include 15 per cent buyer’s premium. wine itself. Mouton Rothschild started the lucky buyer purchased for $27,600. There was also plenty of activity in the its art series bottle labels in the 1940s Other notable results were $3850 paid fine wine retail division, and as this and wooden craft shipping cases became for a bottle of 1985 Richebourg, $3100 goes to press, the 2019 version of our a signature collectable. The 1990s saw for a 2000 Romanee St-Vivant and $2350 Burgundy Education Sessions provided the champagne and cognac houses for a bottle of 2001 Echezeaux. There was our first group with an informative push fashion and fabulous design into also plenty of interest in the rare 1er Cru and entertaining insight into this the packaging and marketing of their top Cuvee Duvault Blochet from the 2002 complex region. We also resumed our premiums. Totally understandable, really, vintage, which peaked at $1890. monthly tastings in late February at our with the mega style conglomerates like A number of other outstanding results Collingwood premises, featuring Bass Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH) were achieved in our Burgundy section, Phillip and Yarra Yering among others and being all about fashion and selling most noticeably the wine from Domaine some fantastic offerings of old and rare dreams and aspirations (LVMH own the Rene Engel and Domaine Fourrier. Bottles gems from Burgundy, Barolo and Rhone likes of Dior, Givenchy and Fendi, on top of 1999 and 2002 Grands Echezeaux from via retail cellar offers. If you would like of d’Yquem, Chevel Blanc, Krug, Dom Rene Engel had plenty of admirers, to receive these offers, sign up at www. Perignon and Veuve Clicquot). The art/ pushing the final hammer price well mwwines.com.au/shop or phone (03) craft/fashion that goes into packaging for above the estimate at $1495 and $1552 9419 6990. top champagne is breathtaking. respectively, while the often admired Australian premium wine packaging is Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques V.V STERLING WINE AUCTIONS pretty smart and Penfolds leads the way from Domaine Fourrier attracted plenty of (by LYNTON BARBER) with some amazing projects that have interest, bottles of 2000 and 2002 selling STERLING has seen every Penfolds attracted world attention. The stand-out for $391 and $598 respectively. Finally, Grange made, with the 1953 Grange was the ampoule, the $100,000 package a bottle of 2001 Griotte-Chambertin V.V Cabernet likely the rarest we have that contained the 2004 Penfolds Block sold for $874 - well above the estimate. sold. Overall, the Grange story is 42 Cabernet Sauvignon. Penfolds has February saw an influx of great Barolo, amazing and so is the opportunity to commissioned some of the world’s most notably from Giacomo Conterno own the 2010 Penfolds Grange Magnum most renowned designers and artisans and Luciano Sandrone. The vintages of commemorative presentation case. to produce breathtaking beautiful and Cascina Francia from Giacomo Conterno, While Sterling has sold over 15,000 functional homes for their special bottles 2006 through to 2012, excited buyers as bottles of Grange, we’ve never seen to live in. evidenced by the final hammer prices anything like this custom case of which At the time of writing this report, exceeding estimates; $506 for the 2006 only a handful were made for the world. Sterling had catalogued a highlight of the and 2008, $414 for the 2007 and 2009, Celebrating four perfect 100pt scores Penfolds package art - the 2010 Penfolds an astonishing $644 for the 2010 and from three international critics and Grange magnum limited edition collector $391 for the 2011. A number of vintages released to coincide with the 100th case at under $5000 - an investment from Luciano Sandrone performed well, birthday of Grange creator, Max Schubert, that may well outlive the contents of too, with the highlight being the 2013 Le the design and artisan crafting of this case the bottle. Of course, if the Grange bug Vigne attracting plenty of interest before embodies extravagance beyond budget. has bitten hard and you need something finally settling for $218. Bottles of 2006, The result is breathtaking. Remarkable as more suitable for your next occasion, 2007 and 2008 Cannubi Boschis peaked it is beautiful, this case combines time there’s always a range of vint ages at $207, $184 and $172 respectively. honoured, expert hand-finishing with the available in Sterling’s auction catalogue. As we move further into 2019, we expect latest tech. A built in video screen has Visit sterlingwine.com.au for latest our auctions to continue to offer up some immortalised Peter Gago who delivers catalogue information. exceptional catalogues that will entice commentary on the wine and a virtual and excite our buyers. We look forward to personal tutored tasting. May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 47

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN WESTERN AUSTRALIA ON THE QT FIRST VENTURE Bangkok, Beijing, Hong Kong, Perth, San Francisco, Singapore and Yangon. Visit PERTH has a new five-star hotel address with INTERNATIONAL hotel group GCP www.hostelgperth.com. the opening of QT Perth last August. The new Hospitality has opened its first Australian hotel is QT's first property on Australia’s west property, Hostel G, in Perth. Also new in Northbridge is DoubleTree by coast, merging post-industrial glamour with Hilton Perth Northbridge. a contemporary, urban-cool vibe. The new hostel concept puts an industry- first emphasis on community living and The first new-build DoubleTree by Hilton Showcasing QT's signature service and home comforts, including en suites in every in Australia is within close walking distance design, the hotel boasts 184 guest rooms, room, linens and 24-hour security. to dining, shopping and cultural attractions, signature bar and grill restaurant, rooftop bar, including Yagan Square, Elizabeth Quay and cafe and seven conference rooms. GCP Hospitality chief marketing officer RAC Arena. The hotel features 206 guest Marc Bichet said Hostel G was designed to rooms, events spaces, a gym and an outdoor QT Perth is located on the doorstep of the be the first in a new generation of hostels, pool and bar. Adding to Perth’s hotel and Murray Street Mall, with less than a minute’s dubbed “hostel 2.0,” providing a hotel hospitality boom, the hotel brand will open walk to Perth's shopping hub. QT Hotels and experience at an affordable price. a second property in 2019 - DoubleTree Resorts first put its stamp on the Australian by Hilton Perth Waterfront - located near tourism sector with the launch of QT Gold “Designed for the modern traveller seeking Elizabeth Quay overlooking the Swan River. Coast in 2011. Now one of Australia and to explore cities like a local, Hostel G is set New Zealand’s most dynamic independent to be a new concept in lifestyle property, CITY HOTSPOT hotel brands, the QT family of properties with a focus on conscious design, comfort includes QT Melbourne and QT Sydney in and social connectivity,” he said. Hostel G is YAGAN Square in Perth is one of the city’s addition to QT Gold Coast, QT Port Douglas, located in the Perth arts quarter of Northbridge newest dining hotspots. QT Falls Creek, QT Canberra, QT Bondi, QT and is the official accommodation partner of Wellington and QT Queenstown. Visit www. Perth’s 2019 Fringe World Festival. The Ficus has just opened on the upper level qthotelsandresorts.com/perth. 296 guest rooms are shared across two of the public precinct. The farm-to-plate room types - shared and private, with glam philosophy means fresh seasonal produce CELEBRATING A VICTORY shared rooms offering four bunk-style rooms sourced from the South West comes exclusively for female travellers. The rooms together in an a la carte and sharing-style ON the 20th anniversary of its Margaret River feature complimentary extras such as hair menu, complemented by an exciting vineyard in Cowaramup, Victory Point Wines dryers and bathroom amenities. Groups cocktail list, as well as an extensive range has opened its cellar door. of travellers seeking privacy can book out of local beer, wine and spirits. private guest rooms with double, twin, four The cellar door is made from local materials, or six-bed configurations available. Each Perth comedy institution, The Laugh Resort, and in particular marri and jarrah wood that room features an en suite and offers free reopened at Yagan Square late last year. comes from fallen trees that were milled wifi, air conditioning, reading lights and USB many years ago by Garry Murtagh. The wine charging stations. producer, which has Keith Mugford from Moss Wood as consultant, has previously Bichet said a major focus of the hostel was sold its wines through high-end restaurants its communal spaces, including a games and bottle shops throughout Australia, and room, screening room and co-working direct to its mailing list customers, said space. “Our aim is to rival the service owners Gary and Judith Berson. standards and amenity offerings found in most hotels,” he said. Victory Point has never been irrigated and is a low-intervention, minimal-chemical GCP Hospitality runs 39 properties vineyard that produces premium chardonnay worldwide and has regional offices in and cabernets as well as a dry rosé. The new tasting facility is open from Thursdays to Mondays from 10am-4pm and on Tuesdays and Wednesdays by appointment at 92 Holben Rd, Cowaramup. 48 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019

Located at the Shoe Bar and Cafe, The Laugh rooms, and cafe. Visitors can also enjoy Visitors can drop in for a beer or wine Resort has been running in Northbridge since meeting some of the local bottlenose dolphins tasting, a lunch by the fire or on the deck in 1991, but recently took a two-year hiatus. of Koombana Bay on a Wild Dolphin Swim summer, enjoy late-afternoon bar snacks, a The new 100-seat venue will host The Laugh Tour or Dolphin Eco Cruise. sampling of gin from Dune Distilling, a few Resort monthly, as well as other shows. Black Brewing Co beers with mates in the The discovery centre has been designed beer garden, a game of pool, or a takeaway. Located in the heart of Perth’s CBD - within with an eco-friendly focus and incorporates Visit cavesroadcollective.com.au. the arms of the Horseshoe Bridge - Yagan Aboriginal dreamtime artwork with interactive Square is one of the city’s most popular lighting displays. The coastal city of Bunbury TICKETS, PLEASE community, meeting and celebration places. can be reached in a two-hour drive south of It is home to cafes, restaurants, pop-ups and Perth and is less than a 45-minute drive to VISITORS to Perth can now experience the shopping. The square has a spectacular the Margaret River region. Swan Valley, Western Australia’s oldest wine lighting display on the underside of the region, using a hop-on, hop-off bus service. canopies and the iconic Digital Tower. PROPERTY TRANSFORMATION Operated by Adams Charters, the Swan REFRESHER COURSE Valley Explorer runs seven days a week, THE former New Esplanade Hotel at Elizabeth departing from Guildford Train Station - a FREMANTLE’S iconic National Hotel, built in Quay in Perth has been re-branded as a new 20-minute train journey from Perth CBD. The 1903, has refreshed its offering with a new 80-room boutique hotel - Quay Perth. circle route runs along West Swan Rd, Great rooftop bar and 12 luxurious hotel rooms. Northern Highway and Reid Highway, and The multi-million-dollar redevelopment allows guests to hop on and off at various The rooftop space offers 360-degree views completely transformed the property, with wineries, distilleries, breweries, cideries, over the port city and is open to the public new guest rooms and public areas, an all- eateries, gourmet food providores and nature- on Sundays from noon-8pm as well as being day lobby cafe, rooftop bar and restaurant, based attractions. The new service started in available for private parties. Located on the and innovative co-working spaces. November with $20 adult tickets available for upper two floors of the hotel, each of the 12 purchase on-board the bus or online. individually-styled heritage rooms showcases CAVE DWELLERS locally designed and made Marri-wood Meanwhile, Captain Cook Cruises’ Swan bathroom vanities and wardrobes, and half CRAFT Beers? Wines? Spirits? Food? Valley Gourmet Wine Cruise has been feature private verandas. Guests also enjoy The home of Black Brewing in Wilyabrup, recognised in Trip Advisor's 2018 Traveller's complimentary wifi and digital smart TVs. Choice Awards as one of Australia’s Top Margaret River, has a new name in Caves 10 Experiences. The cruise, which departs Also in Fremantle, a 500-person capacity Road Collective and is a one-stop tasting from Perth city, travels down the iconic Swan entertainment hall, co-working space and shop. The facility is home to Black Brewing River to the Swan Valley wine region for a micro-brewery will open later this year. Co, Dune Distilling and Ground to Cloud two-course lunch, premium wine tasting and Taking up residence at the former artillery Wines. While Black Brewing Co beer will an exclusive behind-the-scenes wine tour at drill hall, Freo.Social is working in co- continue to be brewed on site by the same Sandalford Estate. Guests also enjoy morning operation with the National Trust to refurbish team under the same brand name, the tea and coffee, dessert and live entertainment the space while preserving and enhancing change of the overall site name to Caves while taking in views of the city skyline and the building's heritage. Road Collective represents the broader picturesque landscape. appeal of the destination. West Australian Constructed in 1895-96, the building was owners Stewart Sampson, Kristin Kestell, Rob Top: Dolphin Discovery Centre. the first purpose-built military hall. More Johnston and James Paterson took over what Above: Swan Valley Explorer. recently, it was remembered as entertainment was Duckstein Brewery in late 2015 and have Opposite page top: QT Rooftop, Perth. venue Fly by Night Musicians Club. steadily grown the product offering. “We’re a Opposite page bottom: Yagan Square, Perth. passionate bunch of locals, driven to deliver PLAY WITH THE DOLPHINS uncompromising quality, and believe the new venue brand better reflects this,” said BUNBURY is now home to a multi-million managing director Sampson. “Since taking dollar revitalised Dolphin Discovery Centre. over the amazing location on Caves Road we’ve steadily improved the venue and Dedicated to dolphin research, conservation product offering with the intention of creating and education, the discovery centre incredible memories.” comprises state of the art interpretative displays, turtle hospital, function and meeting May/June 2019 W I N E S TAT E 49

BEST OF THE WEST 201 TASTED OF THE WEST 139 AWARDED BEST Lots of excellent examples on show here from this wide brown Byron & Harold SAUVIGNON land from the warmer Swan Valley, Perth Hills, Margaret and Wandering Lane BLANC Frankland Rivers further south to the downright cool climate Great Southern regions of the Great Southern region. WA has it all! Riesling 13 TASTED 2017 HHHH 9 AWARDED SPARKLING Swings & Plantagenet Slightly closed nose Roundabouts Three Lions Great with citrussy aromas Overall a nice group 5 TASTED Margaret River Southern Riesling and subtle toasty notes. of well balanced, crisp 4 AWARDED Sparkling NV HHH 2018 HHHH Palate shows purity of acid, wines. A floral bubblegum- Warm tropical feel fresh citrus juice flavours A small diverse group of like nose with slight to the nose; hints of with subtle phenolics. Fermoy Estate sparklings ranging from tropical notes and crisp orange blossom and Margaret River the young and fresh green apple/citrus a full flavoured palate 3-5 $28 Sauvignon Blanc to the aged complex flavours. $26 that exhibits a ripe fruit Zarephath Wines 2018 HHHHH styles. \"Some great profile. Great example of Single Vineyard A \"serious\" nose with colours overall,\" noted Umamu Estate style. 5+ $23 Great Southern great funky characters one judge. Margaret River Porongurup Riesling mixing with nettle-like Sparkling 2017 HHHH aromas. A beautifully Singlefile Denmark Chardonnay Nice development balanced palate that has Pinot Chardonnay 2012 HHH evolving on the zesty lovely drive and intensity 2011 HHHH Fantastic for a 7-year- citrus nose with of varietal flavours. $25 A beautifully aged old; great colour, fine mouthfilling juicy wine with a very toasty bead and lovely toasty flavours and some Plantagenet toffee-like bouquet complexity. $64 attractive steely phenolic Three Lions showing lovely citrus characters. $30 Great Southern purity underneath and a RIESLING Oranje Tractor Sauvignon Blanc delicious flavour profile Wine Great 2018 HHHH with great length of 9 TASTED Southern Riesling A pretty combination acidity. $100 8 AWARDED 2018 HHH1/2 of lychee/tropical fruit A pretty nose with aromas lift off the nose Swings & An excellent class of subtle lemon zest with the lively tropical Roundabouts bright fresh rieslings aromas. Soft in the fruits carrying through to Backyard Stories with lovely musky mouth with gentle the long palate. $23 Margaret River Pinot characters, nice talc-like floral fruit flavours Noir Chardonnay notes and crisp acidity. and good line of acid. Forester Estate NV HHH1/2 Margaret River A fine bead with pure Galafrey Wines 5+ $34 Sauvignon Blanc citrus aromas, subtle Reserve Great Talisman Geographe 2018 HHHH toasty complexity Riesling 2018 HHH Nice nose! Quite and nice line of citrus A fresh lime juice of funky with green bean flavours on the creamy a nose with tropical crunchiness. Palate palate. $39 touches and a full, but is rich, complex and elegant, flavour profile. textured. Good flavour intensity with a sweet 3-5 $25 finish. $29.99 Byron & Harold Southern Riesling Chalkboard Great Partners Great 2018 HHHHH Southern Riesling Southern Riesling Beautiful pure crisp 2017 HHHH 2018 HHH citrus bouquet with Tropical fruit aromas Good appley nose subtle florals and some with aged marmalade- with solid and intense complexity evolving. like characters citrus-like flavours and Palate has lovely developing and more of a zesty bright finish. balance of fruit, acid and those characters evident sweetness with a steely on the light fruit palate. 3-5 $40 minerality line running 3-5 $14 through. 3-5 $25 50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2019