Winestate Magazine November December 2014

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 Friday 16 January, 2015 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Amazing Wines of Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque South Africa1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $3,200 Hyatt Regency Hotel, Perth WA1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 Tickets available to Winestate1993 $90 1991 $850  Subscribers late 20141994 $120 1992 $2701995 $110 1993 $240 Friday 23 January, 20151996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  Cathay Pacific Best of1998 $160  1996 $260 the West 20151999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $4502000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 Hyatt Regency Hotel, Perth WA2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 Tickets available to Winestate2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 Subscribers late 20142003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $5202004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 Sunday 8 March 20152005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $8502006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 Braai in the Barossa2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $6002009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 South African Wine comes to2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 South Australia!2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 The Louise Barossa Valley 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco Tickets only $75 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 Contact [email protected] 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Friday 10 April, 2015Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $2101878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 Cabernet & Bordeaux1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 Blends1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $3001881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  National Wine Center, Adelaide1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 Tickets available to Winestate1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  Subscribers late 20141893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250 1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 Friday 29 May, 20151901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released The World’s Greatest 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 Shiraz Challenge X 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Tickets available to Winestate Chateau Latour Subscribers early 20151908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia Winery Entry Forms1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  available at1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 www.winestate.com.au1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 or email Peter Jackson1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 [email protected] $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130 Ph +61 8 8357 9277  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 Subscribers enjoy these1944 $80  2000 $1,600 events FREE Register online 2001 $700 at www.winestate.com.au1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350 IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260 Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280 Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $2001982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $8001983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $5601990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $4201992 $240 1994 $5501993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $3601995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $4201996 $370  1999 $550 1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $4201999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190 2002 $2002003 $190 2003 $2942004 $170 November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 51

wine investment & collectingAuction Dates ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS demand, with good clearances reported (JULY 2014 PREMIUM AUCTION REPORT, for Henschke Hill of Grace from the 1980s LANGTON’S FINE WINE by GRAHAM WRIGHT) and ’90s - along with Keyneton and Mount AUCTIONS Edelstone from the 2000s. It appears that Weekly fine wine auctions closing The main news out of Oddbins’ Premium supply of these Henschke premiums has every Tuesday at 7pm Wine Auction in July is that demand for also become tight. November 4 Grange continues to grow as supply of November 11 Australia’s most traded wine softens. Noon Eclipse and Reserve Shiraz from November 18 What has also been noticeable over the current vintages cleared well, as did Peter November 25 last few months is the increase in demand Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz, Rockford December 2 for pre-1960s Grange. The keenest Basket Press and Wendouree Shiraz and December 9 bidding wars were fought, somewhat Shiraz-Malbec from the 1990s and 2000s. December 16 surprisingly, over an offering of 2000 Older Wynns John Riddoch, from the December 23 Saltram The Eighth Maker which went 1980s, also caught buyer interest this July. December 30 over 36 per cent above the top end of the guide - while a bottle of 1989 Penfolds Going back to Penfolds - demand has Visit www.langtons.com.au for full vintage port went 26 per cent above the definitely returned to this flagship wine. details of upcoming special event top of the published guides. The limited offerings of Bins 28, 389 and auctions to be held on Wednesdays 707 all cleared well - as did Grange from and Thursdays throughout November It wasn’t an all Penfolds’ night though the 1980s and ’90s and a couple of special and December. - as Balnaves The Tally cabernet from Grange lots from 1965. the 2000s, Bethany GR1 Shiraz from ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS the 1990s, Katnook Odyssey Cabernet One area that’s really surprised me has November 11 (closes October 24) Sauvignon and Prodigy Shiraz (also from been the drying up of supply of Australian December 2 (closes November 14) the 1990s) - along with Grant Burge fortifieds. Even the venerable Yalumba Filsell Shiraz, Jim Barry Armagh from the Horse Ports and Seppelt Para, both dated GRAYSONLINE 1980s and ’90s - all had good clearances. and numbered, seem to be in short supply. Daily wine auctions, starting from Mention should also be made of the return However from this auction, Hardy’s and $9 per case, with a 30-day money of buyer interest in wines of Greenock Chateau Reynella fortifieds, along with back guarantee. Fine wine auctions Creek - especially Apricot Block, Seven Penfolds Grandfathers all cleared well. end Monday-Wednesday-Thursday Acre and flagship Roennfeldt Road Shiraz each week. from the 2000s. Looking at Oddbins’ Top 10 Auction Port and spirit auctions end on Performers tables for July and the Top Tuesdays. Some of our more regular auction 10 Hammer Prices, Australian Wine list favourites continued to enjoy strong was dominated by Penfolds Grange. CRACKA WINES Heading up the table, with a hammer Live wine auctions every day at 8pm. price of $580, was a magnum of 1995 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz, followed STERLING WINE AUCTIONS by a 1998 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz Auctions run every two weeks, back- (original timber case) which fetched $500. to-back, finishing on Wednesday A modern superstar, the 2004 Penfolds evening. Bin 60A Coonawarra Barossa Valley Cabernet Shiraz (boxed), also featured (all dates subject to change without in this table achieving $400, alongside notice) an ancient classic, the 1966 Penfolds St Henri Auldana Cellars Claret Shiraz (HS, cellar stained and torn label) which rounded out the Top Ten at $370. Take out the big two and we saw a mixed bag of older Australian wines, Hardys and Jim Barry, along with more modern classics from Greenock Creek and Clonakilla. In number one spot in the Top 10 Non Penfolds/Henschke Hammer Prices was a double magnum of 1998 Lakes Folly Hunter Valley Cabernet Blend (original timber case) which achieved $311. Greenock Creek’s Roennfeldt Road Barossa Valley Shiraz, 2002 (boxed) and 1998, took out second and third spots with52 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

wine investment & collecting$260 and $252 respectively. A magnum of ’60s also seemed to be attracting some LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS1994 Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz (original attention with a bottle of 1965 Penfolds (INTERIM THIRD QUARTERtimber case, VVHS, cellar scuffed capsule) Bin 95 Grange Shiraz - Red Wine Clinic MARKET REPORT 2014,went for $140, while a bottle of 1998 Jim 1996 (VVHS, minor cellar scuffed and by ANDREA PRITZKER)BarryThe Armagh Clare Valley Shiraz (level stained label, raised and weeping cork)into neck) fetched $130. went for 19.6 per cent above the top end The third quarter got off to a brisk start of the guides. Of the Top Ten Imported at Langton’s, with a record 12 auctions On the imported front, a boxed bottle Wine Performers, Percent Above the held just in the month of July. This rapidof the grand 1996 Krug Champagne Brut Top End of Guides it was nice to see proliferation of auctions is largely due toVintage headed up the Top Ten Hammer champagne heading this list in the form of a welcome increase in volume of supply,Prices, Imported Wine list. In second a 2002 Claude Carre Et Fils Cuvee Passion as increasing numbers of vendors bringspot was a bottle of 2000 Chateau Cos Champagne Brut (minor cellar torn label) their wine in to sell.The increase in supplyd’Estournel 2me Cru St Estephe at $204, which went 10 per cent above the top end has meant the sheer variety and depthwith a magnum of 2009 Louis Jadot Le of guides. Finally, of the Fortified & Spirit of fine wine offered in our catalogues isMillesime Celebre Les 150 Ans 1er Cru offerings, it was the classic Australian unprecedented in the history of Langton’s.Beaune in third at $179. Achieving $200, fortified producers which shone through. Consequently, participation rates are alsoGrants Aged 25 Years Blended Whisky in A bottle of 1989 Penfolds The Australian up as more and more buyers discover thean ornate presentation case topped the Dozen Vintage Port headed up this table, thrill of the chase that is buying at auction.Top Ten Hammer Prices, Fortified Wine & fetching 26 per cent above the top endSpirits list. It was followed by a bottle of of the guides. Demand for blue chip Australian winePenfolds Great Grandfather Rare Tawny continues to grow, particularly for rareSeries 12 (wax capsule, original timber My parting comments from this auction large format bottles. Recent highlightscase) fetching $181. report are as follows: it’s time to clear out include an imperial of Wynns John those unwanted wines in the cellar as it Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon attaining Moving on to our tables which gauge is a good time to turn them into cash! $1398 and an imperial of an unusualhow keen our buyers were for certain You never know, there could be a holiday and rare blend of 1993 Henschke Cyrillots in July and top spot on the Top Ten or a new set of golf clubs stashed way Henschke and Grant Burge achievingAustralian Performers, Percent Above in the cellar. For more information visit $2563 (this would have to be one of theTop End of Guides list went to the www.oddbins.com.au (all prices quoted best options wines ever made). Classifiedaforementioned bottle of 2000 Saltram are exclusive of buyer’s premium). wines also performed well, including aThe Eighth Maker Barossa Valley Shiraz bottle of 1971 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz(minor cellar stained label) which sold for selling for $787.36.4 per cent above the top end of theprice guides. Scruffy Grange from the Grange continues to perform strongly at auction, particularly in the last six months.Oddbins Wine Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine Auctions www.oddbins.com.au Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Looking for Wine? Email: [email protected] Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how to buy wine in three easy steps… Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 53

wine investment & collectingHighlights so far this quarter include a October with renowned first growth dominating wine styles. In other words,bottle of 1955 Bin 95 Grange achieving estate Chateau Margaux. This will have there is more to life than sauvignon blanc$4427 and a bottle of 1959 Penfolds Bin been Chateau Margaux’s first official visit and shiraz. A perfect example of this is46 Grange Hermitage attaining $2358. to Australia. the quiet popularity of the Catena ZapataMore recent bottles of Grange are also Malbec’s, which remain popular even withperforming steadily, with the 2006 Finally, at the time of writing this Interim little promotion. Ditto the Lagrimas Riojavintage fetching $641 in July. By the time Third-Quarter Market Review, there is real Tempranillo, which is a great example ofthis report goes to print, the Penfolds momentum underpinning the secondary the possible appeal of well-priced Spanishclinics will have been held around the market and this looks set to continue, tempranillo.country in August and September, giving driven by the large number of fantasticcollectors the opportunity to have their auctions planned for the remainder of Closer to home we’ve seen thebottles of aged Penfolds (15 years and the year. For full details of our upcoming lesser known Jacob’s Creek Reevesolder) assessed. The biennial clinics events and special themed auctions visit Point Chardonnay and the Tamar Ridgegenerally have a flow-on effect on supply www.langtons.com.au. All prices include Research Series Chardonnay hit the highof top Penfolds and Grange in particular, buyer’s premium. notes in sales, mirroring a desire forwith many collectors choosing to sell premium Australian chardonnay (the $20+their bottles once they have passed clinic. CRACKA WINES category showing the greatest growth). (JUNE-JULY 2014 REPORT, Terra Felix Sagrantino also achieved a large Demand for imported wine continues to by ANDREW GRAHAM) number of bids, with hundreds dippinggrow strongly, dominated by first growth in for this delicious rustic wine.Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy. It’s been a very busy period at Cracka.Highlights include 1998 Chateau Lafite- July was officially Cracka’s biggest Despite such diversity there remainRothschild attaining $2411 and a bottle of sales month ever, with the volumes two wines in auctions that just can’t2009 Chateau Margaux reaching $2143. A towards the end of the month more be touched. One is the Binder Mitchellbottle of 2009 Domaine de la Romanee- typical of Christmas time than mid- Gunslinger Shiraz which was sadly caughtConti La Tache reached $4660. Top tier winter - Christmas in July perhaps? As up in the Heritage scandal of a few yearsItalian wine also fared well, with a bottle for sales trends, there are two styles ago, and is now drinking at its peak (andof 1985Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia selling that - mirroring national trends - have attracts hundreds of bids). The secondfor $2796. dominated Cracka sales over the June/ is the Maven Single Vineyard Sauvignon July period: rich shiraz and Kiwi sauvignon Blanc - a smart Kiwi sauvignon blanc Also by the time this report is published, blanc. from the banks of the Wairau that isLangton’s will have had the privilege of exceptionally popular.hosting three separate fine wine dinners While such mainstream styles remainin Perth, Sydney and Melbourne in early top sellers, what’s refreshing is the extra After this huge sales period we’re breadth seen in the level below these desperately in need of more wine,54 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

wine investment & collectingparticularly full-bodied reds, in the lead of temptations, including 2003, ’04 and these our long-standing offerings fromup to what is going to be the biggest ’05 Chateau Cheval Blanc each selling Bordeaux: the Lafite Barons de RothschildCracka Christmas yet! for under $500, and single bottles of (both the Saga rouge and blanc), plus the Hennessy Paradis Imperial Cognac at a Legende R. from Alsace rieslings and Cracka Wines conduct live unreserved relative bargain sub-$1500 price. With pinot gris and a cremant from Michelwine auctions every day with more than hundreds of cases straight from France, Fonne - and buyers can be assured of an4050 wines currently available for auction there were bargains aplenty to be found. expansive core of representative Frenchor to buy now. For more information, These included 2010 Blason d'Aussieres, wines for many months to come.visit www.crackawines.com.au or email 2012 Charles Audoin Bourgogne [email protected]. All quoted and 2012 Bourgogne Rouge, 2010 Chateau We were thrilled to have on offer anotherprices are per bottle with no buyer’s de Laubertrie, 2010 Chateau La Font du series of packages from an extremelypremium applicable. Loup Cotes-du-Rhone and - 2012 Chateau impressive private wine collection. This Promis - each starting at $9 and selling vendor’s wine cellar was a comprehensiveGRAYSONLINE for $20 or below. These classic wines collection containing a roll-call of virtually(JULY REVIEW, provided a wonderful introduction to the every iconic Australian wine of the last 25by GREG FITZSIMMONS) iconic regions of France, at a relatively years. In almost all cases the wines were small price. purchased directly from the producers Vive La France! To celebrate Bastille or distributors. Some of the wines inDay graysonline conducted its largest-by- Across the remainder of 2014, the collection had never been releasedvolume French wine sale to date. It was graysonline aims to further build on this domestically. I had the rare pleasure ofpacked with the iconic creations of the burgeoning interest in French wines and sampling wines from this cellar whichchateaus of Bordeaux and Champagne. provide our customers with a greater were up to 28 years old and they wereI was pleased with the number of new catalogue of choice. Through the winter all in perfect condition. This was, quitebidders who took advantage of the months we sourced some exceptional simply, one of the finest private winebargains and classics alike. Some of the and unusual wines direct from France, cellars we had ever seen - and the resultsresults were exceptional for vendors including some great quaffing wines speak for themselves. The 2001 Leeuwinsuch as 2004 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild from Rhone, Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Estate Art Series Chardonnay pack soldreaching over $600, 1988 Salon Le Mesnil Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Famille Quiot for a staggering $1140 and a magnum forBlanc de Blancs achieving $555, 1995 `Les Couversets` Chateauneuf-du-Pape, $500. Penfolds six packs, including 2001Chateau d'Yquem going for $509 and the Font du Loup Remy Ferbras Gigondas and RWT Shiraz, went for $700, and 1998 and1976, despite its oxidative development from Chablis Domaine du Chardonnay 1996 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz each sold foras evident by the colour, selling for over both a Chablis AC and premier cru along over $600 a pack. Other perfect drinking$450. For buyers there was also a bevy with some from Olivier Tricon. Add to wines, including 1996 Parker CoonawarraWINNER OF THE CANSTAR BLUEMOST SATISFIED CUSTOMERS AWARDFOR ONLINE LIQUOR STORESQuality wines at wholesale prices with all auctionssbtaacrktingugafrraonmtejeusatn$d9sppeeredcyasdee.liWveitrhy,aw3h0adt’asynmototnoeylove about wine at GraysOnline?Vcuissittowmwewrs.garraeygsoivninligneu.scofimve and find out why our stars!

wine investment & collectingEstate First Growth Cabernet Blend, 2001 Riesling - both of which you can pick up by bidding after you in the auction. However, it also means that if you wishYeringberg Cabernet Blend, 2000 Seppelt at around the $30 mark. to secure the item you are bidding on, against an equal bidder, you may needSt Peters Shiraz and 2001 Jasper Hill Bargains such as these are more to increase your bid increment. Be sure to download and save our newGeorgia’s Paddock Shiraz, went for under frequently available through graysonline mobile platform, to ensure you will never miss out on that desired wine wherever$100 per bottle. My personal favourites and provide the perfect opportunity to you are.included the 2002 St Hallett Faith Shiraz acquire a readymade Australian wine Graysonline continues to be the leader in themed and weekly sales.This promiseand 2003 Grosset Springvale Watervale collection. provides the foundation of our growth and has led to substantial market share. To further improve service Graysonline remains an independent and fiercely competitive player in the finestar ratings  to our customers, graysonline wine and liquor business, and we will has tweaked its auction times. continue to lead from the front. Be assured that as supply grows steadily Tastings start page 58 As a result, if you win on throughout the remainder ofThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of a Tu e s d ay n i g h t , yo u c a n 2014, you can confidently make graysonline your first preferenceexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. be assured you will be in the fine wine auction market. ForAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry drinking your acquisition by more information visit www.graysonline.professionals and are compared in peer Friday night (in most metro com.au. Prices listed don’t includeclasses by three judges. areas). So stay tuned for buyer’s premium.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, bigger, better Tuesday nighta major mail-order business. sales. In addition, we haveCD Cellar door price. removed the “earliest originalCDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out. bid precedence” from the$N/A Price not available at time of printing. rules governing our online Contact information pg 144. bidding process. This means a bidder is no longer able to RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). outbid you, at the same priceFor a complete list of what we tasted as you have bid, simplyplease refer to www.winestate.com.au GET YOUR TICKETS NOW! Tickets are now on sale for South Australia’s biggest celebration of local wine, regional produce and culinary expertise - join us at the Cellar Door Wine Festival held under one roof in the heart of the city! 20-22 FEBRUARY 2015 ADELAIDE CONVENTION CENTRE www.cellardoorfestival.com56 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

42 DEGREES SOUTH A. RETIEF A.T. RICHARDSON ALKOOMI ALTA AMBERLEY AMELIA PARK ANGASPLAINS ANGOVE ANGUS THE BULL ANNIE’S LANE ARAMIS ARMCHAIR CRITIC ARRIVO ARROWFIELDARTWINE ASCELLA PURE ASHBROOK ASHTON HILLS B3 BADGER’S BROOK BAILLIEU BALGOWNIEBALLAST STONE BANROCK STATION BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE BARWANG BARWICK BATHEBATTELY BATTLE OF BOSWORTH BAY OF FIRES BELGRAVIA BELLARMINE BEN POTTS BERESFORDBERTON BEST’S BIRD IN HAND BISCAY BLACKBILLY BLEASDALE BLUE PYRENEES BLUE TONGUEBOLD HEARTS BOTOBOLAR BOWEN ESTATE BRAND’S LAIRA BREAM CREEK BREATHING SPACEBRESS BRINDABELLA HILLS BROKENWOOD BROOKLAND VALLEY BROTHERS IN ARMS BROWNBROTHERS BROWNS OF PADTHAWAY BUNKERS BUTLER CREST BY FARR BYRNE CALEDONIAAUSTRALIS CAMPBELLS CANONBAH BRIDGE CAPE BARREN CAPE BERNIER CAPE JAFFA CAPEMENTELLE CAPE NATURALISTE CAPEL SOUND CAPEL VALE CAPERCAILLIE CASTELLI ESTATECASTLE ROCK ESTATE CATCH BILLY CATCHING THIEVES CHAIN OF PONDS CHALICE BRIDGE CHALKHILL CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD CHAPEL HILL CHARLES CIMICKY CHRISMONT CLARENDON HILLSCLAYMORE CLEMENS HILL CLOS CLARE CLOVER HILL COAL VALLEY COLDSTREAM HILLS COOBARACOOKS LOT CORAL SEA CORIOLE CORK CUTTERS CULLEN CUMULUS CURLEWIS CUTTAWAY HILLD’ARENBERG DAL ZOTTO DALWHINNIE DANDELION DAOSA DAVID HOOK DE BORTOLI DE IULIISDEAKIN DEEP WOODS DELATITE DERWENT DESTINATIONS DEVIATION ROAD DEVIL’S LAIRDEXTER DIAMOND VALLEY DOGRIDGE DOMAIN DAY DOMAINE A DOMAINE CHANDON DOMAINESTATIARRA DOWIE DOOLE DUNSBOROUGH HILLS DUTSCHKE EAGLE VALE EDENMAE EDWARDSELDERTON ELDRIDGE ESTATE ELMSLIE ENOOMAH BORE EPEROSA EVANS & TATE EYRE CREEKFABER VINEYARD FAIRBANK FARR RISING FEATHERTOP FERNGROVE FIFTH LEG FIRST DROPFIVE GEESE FLAMETREE FLINTS OF COONAWARRA FORESTER ESTATE FORMBY & ADAMS FOURSISTERS FOUR WINDS FRAMINGHAM FRASER GALLOP FREYCINET FROGMORE CREEK FUDDLINGCUP GALLI ESTATE GARDNERS GROUND GARFISH GEMTREE GEOFF HARDY GEOFF MERRILL GEOFFWEAVER GIPSIE JACK GLAETZER GLAETZER-DIXON FAMILY GLEN ELDON GLENGUIN ESTATEGOATY HILL GORDON HILLS GOUNDREY GRANT BURGE GROSSET GUMPARA HANDPICKED HAPPSSearchAND THREE HILLS HARDYS HAREWOOD ESTATE HARVEY RIVER BRIDGE ESTATE HEARTLANDHEATHCOTE ESTATE HEATHCOTE WINERY HEGGIES HENKELL HENLEY HILL HENRY’S DRIVEHENSCHKE HESKETH HEWITSON HIGHER PLANE HILL SMITH HITHER & YON HOLM OAKHOUGHTON HOUSE OF ARRAS HOWLING WOLVES HUGH HAMILTON HUGO INGOLDBY IRON POTBAY IRVINE J & J VINEYARDS JACK RUSSELL JAMES ESTATE JANSZ JASPER HILL JIM BARRY JOHNDUVAL JONES ROAD JOSEF CHROMY JUNIPER ESTATE KAESLER KAKABA KANGARILLA ROADAUSTRALIA’SKARRIBINDI KATNOOK KELLERMEISTER KILIKANOON KILLARA ESTATE KILLERBY KINGSTONESTATE KINLOCH KNAPPSTEIN KNEE DEEP KOONOWLA KOOYONG KREGLINGER KURTZ FAMILYLA LINEA LA PLEIADE LA VIE LACACHE LAKE BREEZE LAKE HOUSE LAMBLOCH LANGMEIL LARKHILL LARRY CHERUBINO LAST HORIZON LEASINGHAM LECONFIELD LEEUWIN LENGS & COOTERLEO BURING LERIDA ESTATE LIGHT’S VIEW LINDEMANS LOGAN LONELY VINEYARD LONGVIEWLOOSE LEAF MANDALAY ROAD MARCHAND & BURCH MARGAN MASSENA MASSONI MATISONLARGESTMAXIMUS MAXWELL MCWILLIAM’S MEEREA PARK MERUM ESTATE MESH MIHI CREEK MILESFROM NOWHERE MITCHELL MITCHELTON MITOLO MOJO MOLLYDOOKER MONTROSE MOONBARKESTATE MOONDAH BROOK MOOTHI ESTATE MOPPITY MORGAN PENDARI MOSS WOOD MOTORHEADMOUNT CAMEL RIDGE MOUNT HORROCKS MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN MOUNT PLEASANT MOUNTADAMMR MICK MT BUFF MUNARI NASHWAUK NIGHT HARVEST NINTH ISLAND NORFOLK RISE NUGANWINE SITE!O’LEARY WALKER OAKOVER OAKRIDGE OATLEY OCEAN EIGHT OCEAN GROVE ODDFELLOWSOLIVER’S TARANGA OMNI OXFORD LANDING PADTHAWAY ESTATE PANORAMA PARADIGM HILLPARINGA ESTATE PARKER COONAWARRA PARRI ESTATE PARTISAN PAUL CONTI PAXTON PEELESTATE PENFOLDS PENLEY PENNA LANE PENNY’S HILL PEPPER TREE PEPPERJACK PETALUMAPETER LEHMANN PEWSEY VALE PHILIP SHAW PICARDY PICARUS PIERRO PIG IN THE HOUSE PIKE& JOYCE PIKES PIMPERNEL PIPERS BROOK PIRIE PIRRAMIMMA PIZZINI PLANTAGENET PORTPHILLIP ESTATE PRANCING HORSE PREVELI PRIMO PRINTHIE PROTERO PROVENANCE PUNTROAD PUPPETEER PURE CLARE PURE VISION PURPLE HANDS PYRENEES RIDGE QUARISA QUATTROMANO RADFORD RALPH FOWLER RAVEN PARK RAVENSWORTH RED HILL ESTATE REDBANKREDGATE RESCHKE RINGBOLT RIPOSTE RISE VINEYARDS RIVERPINES ROCHFORD ROCKBAREROLF BINDER RUMBALL RYMILL SALINGER SALITAGE SALOMON SALTRAM SANDALFORD SCHILDESTATE SCHUBERT ESTATE SCHWARZ WINE CO SCORPO SEABROOK SEE SAW SEPPELT SETANTASEVENHILL SEVILLE ESTATE SHAW & SMITH SHEER DROP SHELMERDINE SHOWBLOCK SINGLESTEP SISTER’S RUN SIX FOOT SIX SKILLOGALEE SMITH & HOOPER SONS OF EDEN SOUL GROWERSSPRING VALE SQUITCHY LANE ST HALLETT ST HUBERTS ST JOHNS ROAD STANTON & KILLEENSTAR LANE STEELS GATE STEFANO LUBIANA STELLA BELLA STEP X STEP STICKS STOCKMANSRIDGE STONEFISH STONEY STONIER STRINGY BRAE OF SEVENHILL SUNNYCLIFF SUTTON GRANGESWINGS & ROUNDABOUTS T’GALLANT TAHBILK TALTARNI TAMAR RIDGE TAMBURLAINE TAR &ROSES TARRAWARRA TATACHILLA TAYLORS TEMPLE BRUER TERRA FELIX TERRAMORE TERRE ATERRE TEUSNER THE BLACK CHOOK THE HEDONIST THE LANE VINEYARD THE LITTLE WINE CO.THE OLD FAITHFUL THOMAS THOMPSON ESTATE THORN-CLARKE TILBROOK ESTATE TIM ADAMSTIM GRAMP TIM SMITH TIN SHED TORBRECK 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162 TASTED90 AWARDEDPINOT NOIRThe great “holy grail” of winemaking, pinot noir continues to both Pinot Noirfrustrate and delight. Contrary to last year when the $20-$30 $20 - $25category bombed out, this year it was the most dependable class,with a great nod to the 2013 vintage, which seemed ideally suited to 18 TASTEDthe variety. We hope that winemakers are getting the message thatthey don’t have to aim for the world’s best pinot noir by pushing the 6 AWARDEDenvelope (and thereby making a dry red) but work with the quality ofthe fruit and appropriate oak to produce genuine varietal character. Does an extra $5 offer more quality? \"NotPinot Noir Sileni Cellar this time,\" agreed theunder $20 Selection Hawke's judges. \"Too many of Bay Pinot Noir 2013 these wines had more17 TASTED HHH1/2 oak, but often a lack5 AWARDED A stalky herbal nose of balance. There is with hints of berries better value overall inSome good value and plums. Lightweight the previous flight,\" said\"jewels\" amongst the palate with interesting one judge.chaff, worthwhile for earthy complexitystocking as quaffers. The developing. $17.95 TudorYarra Valley Geoff Hardy GMHjudges found the 2013 Barwick White Label Pinot Noir 2013 HHH Adelaide Hills Pinotwines in this bracket Pinot Noir 2013 Fresh confectionery Noir 2013 HHHwere \"ripe but hollow\" HHH1/2 nose with an earthy lift A big wine with awith the 2012s having Smells of raspberries and a clean, crisp and perfumed aromaticbetter concentration and and cream. Good weight lively palate. $12.99 bouquet and ripe cherryoak balance and the rest of jubey sweet fruit on flavours with a savourybeing thin and oxidised. the vibrant palate with note. $20 fine drying tannins. $18 Shepherds Hut Kaiora Bay Reserve The Wine Society Porongurup Great Central Otago Pinot Premium Selection Southern Pinot Noir Noir 2012 HHHH King Valley Pinot 2013 HHH Pretty aromas Noir 2012 HHH1/2 An energetic lively reminiscent of summer A fuller style with pinot with great berries and a tight, powerful chocolaty crunchy fruit attack. delicate and elegant fruit showing appealing Currently dominated by palate with just the sweetness and an the oak. $21 right amount of earthy/savoury edge with \"pinosity\"! $14.99 a hint of oak. $16.99 star ratings  Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 144. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au58 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

varietal tastingGovernor Robe Pinot Noir Barwon Ridge WinesEstate Robe Pinot 2013 Geelong Pinot NoirNoir 2013 HHH $25 - $30 2013 HHHRipe dark fruit aromas Berries and cloveswith a spicy note. 18 TASTED on the nose and lotsSlightly savoury palate of good sweet fruitwith an interesting 6 AWARDED concentration on thedimension. $22Tussock Nelson The judges were a bit palate. 3-5 $28Pinot Noir 2013 HHH underwhelmed with thisSmells of mulberries group. \"Some of these D'Angelo Fugiastroand cedar with funky were a bit too young and Yarra Valley Pinotnotes. Loads of berry might be better in six Noir 2013 HHHflavours. Needs time to months. The oak is a bit An interesting wine -integrate. $22 'clunky' at the moment,\" has complexity, finesseYealands Estate said one judge. and elegance withLand Made Pinot lifted red fruits and fineNoir 2013 HHH tannins. $28Smells of jelly crystalsand has a plush palate Paringa Estate Silkwood Premium Nocton Vineyardwith lifted aromatics and Peninsula Pemberton Pinot Coal River Valleywarming finish. $22 Mornington Noir 2013 HHH Pinot Noir 2013 HHHBarwick Estates Five Peninsula Pinot Noir Oaky lift to the sappy Full of juicy, jubey plumTrees Pemberton 2013 HHH1/2 fruit nose and finely fruit characters withPinot Noir 2013 HHH Nose of jubey fruit balanced spicy/cedary nice use of oak in subtleDusty, oaky nose and and spicy oak. Richer palate with hints of rose support. $28a bright and attractive palate with masses of hips. $26.95palate with grippy confectionery sweet Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Noirmouthfilling tannins. $24 fruit flavours and 12,000 Miles 2012 & Older powerful oak. $28 Carterton NZ Pinot $25 - $30 Noir 2013 HHH Subtle fresh berry 14 TASTED aromas with smoky/ stalky notes and an 7 AWARDED elegant well-balanced palate. $27.50 Starting to get into the serious side of things with this group with some good quality examples of the style.SATHned Here is the question. iS THe Why does our vineyard regularly produce wines of greater finesse, elegance and balance?AnSWer We believe that the sand dunes we grow on, which were 10,000 years in evolving, are the most likely answer. They give us the viticultural influences of deep drainage, elevation and low levels of nutrients. From the 2012 vintage we made 132 cases of Sands of Time Shiraz. As the name suggests it is the best expression of what our dunes can do. To check out the influence of 10,000 years of sand send us an email and we will let you know where to find our nearest wine shop. [email protected] Wines made for eating November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 59

Wining and Dining at Hyatt Regency PerthFine cuisine is synonymous with the Hyatt Diner. Club at the Hyatt members are Diner serving up a fusion of South Eastbrand, with a strong focus on sourcing also invited to exclusive events and Asian flavours all prepared in the livelyfresh, seasonal produce and preparing it promotions. The restaurant is also a open kitchen where guests can watchin an innovative way for guests. keen supporter of Western Australian the chefs at work. With a choice ofAt Hyatt Regency Perth, this approach wines, hosting Wine of the Month and preparation styles such as stir-fried, soupis carried out, not only for the large featuring a variety of WA wines on the based, braised, and steamed, eachnumber of events and conferences held beverage menu. dish will be cooked to the preference ofat the hotel every week, but also in room In the hotel’s impressive atrium is individual guest.service and at the hotel’s five restaurants Conservatory, where guests can enjoy Also on the lower lobby is La Stradaand bars. a cocktail while taking in the surrounds. coffee shop with access to AdelaideAward winning restaurant, Cafe, During the weekend, Conservatory also Terrace, offering fresh pastries,offers guests an interactive dining offers a special Afternoon Tea, a popular sandwiches, cakes, tea and coffee;experience where they are able to choice for birthday celebrations, bridal and PSB (Plain Street Bar), the idealwatch the Chefs at work in the kitchen. showers and baby showers, where place for a refreshing beverage or aFor a yearly fee guests are able to guests can enjoy champagne, tea, tasty bite to eat. With fine crafted localjoin Club at the Hyatt which entitles coffee and a selection of sweet and and international beers, Australianthem to fantastic benefits and up to savoury treats. wines and Champagne cocktails,50 percent off when dining with one or The lower lobby of the hotel provides guests are able to enjoy dining in amore guests at Cafe or Joe’s Oriental more dining options with Joe’s Oriental relaxed environment.

experience the HYATT touchReacquaint Yourself with Celebrate Christmas atHyatt Regency Perth Hyatt Regency PerthGuests can reacquaint themselves with Cafe, relaxing with a drink and a bit Make your Christmas event forthe hotel which has recently completed to eat at PSB (Plain Street Bar), trying 2014 one to remember at Hyattthe most extensive refurbishments in the tasty South East Asian cuisine at Regency Perth. Call the dedicatedits 23 year history. The hotel’s guest Joe’s Oriental Diner, or even afternoon Event Planning team to find out howrooms and suites have received new tea in Conservatory where you can they can help. Call 08 9225 1221 orfurnishings with 42” high definition simply sink into a comfortable chair email [email protected] TVs and upgraded amenities. with views of the atrium and watch theThe refreshed rooftop poolside day pass by. For general infomration on Hyattsurrounds offer guests an ideal place Hyatt Regency Perth offers a variety of Regency Perth, visit perth.regency.to relax and is also an attractive venue tailor made weekend packages such hyatt.com or call 08 92251234.to host events. as Bonus 99* which gives guests $99 facebook.com/perth.regency.hyattUnique to the hotel is Artbank’s gallery worth of credit to use at any food andof contemporary Australian artwork. beverage outlet within the hotel.Presented on the level one mezzanine, For more information on the otherguests are able to view the artwork packages or to make a reservationat leisure. call 131234 or for best rates visitWith five food and beverage outlets to perth.regency.hyatt.com *Subject tochoose from, guests have the option availability. Terms and Conditionsof dining A la Carte or pan-to-plate at apply.Phone: 08 9225 1234 - Email: [email protected] - www.perth.regency.hyatt.com - facebook.com/perth.regency.hyatt

PINOT NOIR Waipara Wai Waipara Babich Winemakers First Foot Forward Sileni The Plateau Valley Pinot Noir Reserve The Patch Vineyard Hawke's Bay Pinot 2012 HHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 HHH1/2 Pleasant, nice looking Noir 2013 HHHHH Noir 2013 HHHH A clear clean dark cherry wine with sweet lifted Aromas of cherries, Brooding herbaceous and bramble nose with summer berry fruit plums, sweet spices nose with leathery/ savoury notes. Big characters, strong oak and herbs open up in bacon-like notes and a youthful palate with support and fine tannins. the glass. Very savoury long supple strawberry intense varietal flavours. palate with a herbal palate with a nice tang 3-5 $26.95 edge, great ‘pinosity’ and to it. Needs time. $30 5+ $32 sweet oak support. It has Red Hill Estate poise and length. $35 K1 by Geoff Hardy Foxey's Hangout Cellar Door Release Bass River Single Mornington Mornington Vineyard Gippsland Adelaide Hills Pinot Peninsula Pinot Noir Peninsula Pinot Noir Pinot Noir Noir 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 2012 HHH1/2 2013 HHHH A pretty wine - in a rich Good pinot definition on Savoury, earthy/spicy Great example. Bacon, way, that has plenty the nose and very fruity aromatics and biscuity brambles and dark of flavour. Has lots of palate with brooding complexity to the soft cherries mingle together spicy sweet fruit, a good complexity. Needs more herbal palate. \"Has on the nose and the tannic drive and great time. 3-5 $35 some charm,\" said one balanced palate is acidity. 3-5 $35 judge. $28 leathery and herbal.The Wine Society Tokar Estate Yarra 3-5 $35Director's Selection Valley Pinot NoirReserve Central 2012 HHH1/2 Saint Clair FamilyOtago Pinot Noir Ripe minty style with Estate Pioneer2012 HHHHH generous rich jubey Block 5 Bull BlockBig, bright, berry fruit and good oak Marlborough Pinotbouquet with hints of presence without Noir 2013 HHHHdried herbs. Dry and being overpowering. Tight, restrained, aromassavoury in the mouth of bacon and cherriesand tasting of plums 3-5 $28 with earthy notes.and bacon with a great Drying savoury palateacid drive and a very Joseph Faiveley has dark fruit profile andlong and lingering finish. Bourgogne good tannins. $31.90 Burgundy Pinot Noir 3-5 $29.99 2012 HHH A lively 'cola' style with stewed fruit, chalky tannin definition and bright acidity. 3-5 $29Yarrawood Tall Tales Reilly's Dry Land Saint Clair Family Oakdene Peta's Prancing HorseYarra Valley Pinot Adelaide Hills Pinot Estate Pioneer Single Vineyard Estate The PonyNoir 2012 HHHH Noir 2012 HHH Block 4 Sawcut Bellarine Peninsula MorningtonAn excellent example A mintiness to the Marlborough Pinot Pinot Noir Peninsula Pinot Noirof the variety with nose and full-bodied Noir 2013 HHHH 2013 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2raspberry fruit silky smooth palate A powerful wine with Oaky herbal bouquet Herbal dominant noseshowing slight herbal/ with quite a tart finish. loads of primary fruit with sweet vanillin with slight earthystalkiness. It is elegant, showing subtle spicy notes. Spicy varietal suggestion. Very intensebalanced and has some 3-5 $29 nuances and hints of oak palate is both sweet and and flavoursome palate'authority'. $26 with a long and warming savoury with the oak well with dark fruit profile. Pinot Noir finish. $31.90 matched by fruit. $35 2013 $30 - $40 Saint Clair Family 3-5 $35 Estate Pioneer Yealands Estate 19 TASTED Block 12 Lone Gum Single Vineyard 14 AWARDED Marlborough Pinot Awatere Valley Noir 2013 HHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot \"A nice group of Savoury meaty aromas Noir 2013 HHH approachable 2013s that with some red fruit Ripe lifted berry bouquet will be popular even nuances and a firm and a fresh and vibrant amongst the non-pinot tannic palate with palate with lively acidity. drinkers,\" said one great acid backbone. judge. \"Ripe, generous 3-5 $30 flavours offer nice 3-5 $31.90 drinking now.\" Those that didn’t make the grade had pushed the oak a little too far.62 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

BRA AI in the South Africa comes to the Barossa Experience some of the finest South African wines in South Australia’s beautiful Barossa Valley. 12pm-4pm Sunday 28 M0a1rc4h $75 per ticketPhone: (61 8) 8562 2722 | Email: [email protected] | Web: www.appellation.com.au

PINOT NOIRSileni Parkhill Staete Landt PaladinHawke's Bay Pinot Marlborough PinotNoir 2013 HHH Noir 2012 HHH1/2Very ripe style with lots The spicy red fruit noseof character. Dark fruit is lifted, vibrant andprofile and good tannin expressive. Palate hasstructure. 3-5 $32 great varietal drive, texture, intensity andAustin's Wines length. $35Geelong Pinot Noir Babich Winemakers2013 HHH ReserveBrooding dark fruit Marlborough Pinotcharacters with Nero 2011 HHH1/2barnyard touches in the Spicy cherry nose isbackground and good open and vibrant. Palateacidity. 3-5 $35 is lively and earthy and layered with jubey fruit.Pinot Noir Jackson Estate D'Angelo Il Scotchmans Hill Good tannic spine.2012 & Older Vintage Widow Berardino Reserve Bellarine Peninsula$30 - $40 Marlborough Pinot Officer Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 3-5 $35 Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH Bream Creek26 TASTED Dark brooding, savoury Very varietal fragrances Very herbal aromas Tasmania Pinot Noir16 AWARDED style with very intense of cherries, spices, with stalky note. Good 2011 HHH1/2 meaty, gamey, dark fruit leather and brambles. varietal definition to Still very young andThe judges commented core for a pinot. Nice The delightful palate the palate. Seamless fresh with earthythat, “The best wines tannic drive adds to the has good complexity of balance of acid, tannin bramble bouquet andare still holding their wine's complexity. It jubey fruit and oak. Has and fruit. 3-5 $32 tasting of Turkish Delightprimary freshness and has poise and length. the ability to age further. with good acid balance.varietal distinction\". Di Giorgio Family\"Lots of positive merits 3-5 $36 5+ $35 Wines Kongorong 3-5 $36here,\" agreed all. Some Woollaston Nelson Limestone Coast Derwent Estateof the older wines are Nepenthe Pinnacle Pinot Noir Pinot Noir WinesTasmania Pinotworth trying now. 2012 HHHH 2012 HHH1/2 Noir 2011 HHH1/2 A dry flavoursome Evidence of new oak A big wine with a The Good Doctor style with spicy earthy and bramble fruit on jammy brambly fruit Adelaide Hills Pinot aromas and a long, well- the nose. Palate has profile dominated by Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 balanced palate high in sweet lolly-like fruit the tannins and offering Earthy meaty bouquet acid with tannin balance intensity and good good cellaring potential. with cherry-like fruit and quality fruit. flavour length. $35 and spicy sweetness. 3-5 $37 Full rich palate with 3-5 $31 Yarra Vale Reserve plenty of flavour, Yarra Valley Pinot texture and complexity Bishop's Head Noir 2009 HHH1/2 and a great acid drive Waipara Valley Pinot K1 by Geoff Hardy Lifted brambly fruit nose; extending the wine's Noir 2012 HHHH Adelaide Hills Pinot hints of leather, spices length. 3-5 $32 Savoury cedary/earthy Noir 2012 HHH1/2 and some stalkiness. aromas. \"Smells like a Brooding barnyardy Very ripe cooked fruit pinot,\" said one judge. bouquet and a big but flavours. Drink now. $36 Raspberry palate is fresh classy and flavoursome Chanter's Ridge and pretty with oak herbal fruit palate with Macedon Ranges sitting on top. $35 NZ impressive length. Pinot Noir 2008 HHH1/2 3-5 $35 Developed secondary characters dominate the nose and palate adding complexity to this gentle wine. $30judges Robert Paul Victoria Sharples Rachel Gore Proprietor of Vintager Founder and MD the Wine Wine & Viticulture consultant Winemaking Services. Station distribution. Senior for Wine Network, a wine Formerly, senior consultant Judge at the International consulting group responsible for Wine Network Australia. Wine Challenge, the for 50 brands. Associate Was the chief winemaker International Cool Climate judge at Red Hill (Victoria) for Montrose/Craigmoor show and Cairns Wine and show judge in the USA Mudgee for 11 years and Show. Formerly PR and and New Zealand. Has also also worked for Wyndham Marketing Manager, been a winemaker in both Estate, Chapel Hill, Coriole Bibendum, London. countries. and Amberton.64 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

varietal tastingMount Stapylton Akarua Wines Red Hill EstateWines Sophia Yarra Bannockburn Merricks GroveValley Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot Mornington2012 HHH Noir 2013 HHH1/2 Peninsula Pinot NoirVery varietal spicy cherry Good cool climate 2012 HHHfruit dominating. Some varietal fruit expression Vital and lively wine withsavouriness. Good of leafy brambles freshness of varietal fruitdrinking now. $30 and cherries with and subtlety of spice. $40Rockburn Central tannins adding to theOtago Pinot Noir complexity. $42 Mt Maude Vineyard2012 HHH Maude ReserveEarthy briary aromas with D'Angelo Il Central Otago Pinotfunky barnyardy notes Berardino Reserve Noir 2012 HHHand a lean fruit profile on Officer Pinot Noir A dry savoury style withthe palate. $39.99 2012 HHH1/2 some floral notes on the Developing leathery, nose and good varietalPinot Noir mushroomy nose flavours. $49$40 - $50 and dense, savoury, brooding, varietal fruit Domaine Faiveley23 TASTED palate. Drink now or I'er Cru Le Cros cellar it. $40 Du Roy Mercurey16 AWARDED Burgundy Pinot Noir Nicholson River 2011 HHHSome crackers here, Santolin Wines D'Angelo Il Berardino Winery NR Eastern Lifted mentholaccording to the Individual Vineyard Reserve Officer Pinot Gippsland Pinot characters on the fruityjudges, but also some Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 HHHH Noir 2010 HHH1/2 nose and a flavoursomepretenders. What we Noir 2013 HHHHH An opulent varietal with Dry, firm and savoury palate with a lean fruitare seeing is the quality A fresh vibrant varietal a complexity of meaty, with a meaty fruit profile profile. $48of varietal fruit much with a youthful core. earthy, red berry and showing some bramblyimproved on that of Smells of berry fruits spicy characters. Bright notes and a moderate Pinot Noirthe past. Quality has with some oak subtlety. bouquet and lifted drying level of acidity. $39 $50 - $75definitely lifted in this Mouthfilling blue fruitprice bracket. flavours on the long palate. 3-5 $40 Cable Bay Central 18 TASTED lingering palate with Otago Pinot Noir 12 AWARDED a great tannic finish. Mahana Nelson Pinot 2013 HHH Noir 2012 HHHH Vibrant savoury aromas Now we are talking! 3-5 $45 A tightly wound red fruit and opulent Turkish \"Some excellent and sweet spicy nose. Delight-like flavours pinots here with thePipers Brook Akarua Wines Firm youthful palate with with supporting oak. winemakers not overVineyard Estate Bannockburn dry herbal characters working the fruit or theTasmania Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot and marzipan-like 3-5 $42 oak,\" noted one judge.2012 HHHHH \"The best wines hereA beautifully balanced Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 elements. 3-5 $41 Handpicked showed restraint andwine, bright in the A complex vibrant wine. Collection Tasmania classy structure; theglass with earthy A slightly restrained Deviation Road Pinot Noir 2013 HHH worst - excess oak oraromas showing subtle bouquet of dark cherries Adelaide Hills Pinot A firmer savoury style over extracted fruit.”undertones. Good and spices with a Noir 2012 HHHH with good fruit/oakcomplexity of fruit and oak long expressive palate Nose in the floral balance and brooding Red Hill Estateproducing lip smacking showing a complexity spectrum with gamey complexity. Cellaring M&N Morningtonflavours and a long, of fruit and secondary meaty undertones. potential. 5+ $45 Peninsula Pinot Noirlingering finish. $41.50 characters. 3-5 $42 Palate is savoury, 2012 HHHHH complex and very Saint Clair Earthy stewed fruit Buttermans Track varietal. A good style of Family Estate nose with umami-like Yarra Valley Pinot pinot. $45 Omaka Reserve savouriness. Silky Noir 2013 HHHH Marlborough Pinot smooth in the mouth Spices, leather and dried Noir 2013 HHH and brimming over with herbs on the nose and Varietal, fresh and approachable sweet intense, jubey flavours vibrant with earthy, spicy, fruit showing some with oak showing through. cherry characters and earthiness. Needs more Not a classic but very good acid length. $49 time to settle. $65 enjoyable. 3-5 $40 Sarah Andrew Steven Paul Owner and distributor, Manager for Oakdene Selador boutique Wines. Completed AWRI wines. Certified and WSET Advanced sommelier and WSET Wine Assessment certified educator. Certificates. Judge at Judge at Eltham/ Victorian wine show and Frankston/Daylesford associate at Geelong, wine show. Ballarat and Cairns. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 65

PINOT NOIRParinga Estate Pinot Noir Fromm Clayvin Pinot NoirEstate Mornington $75 - $100 Vineyard $100 +Peninsula Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot2013 HHHH1/2 7 TASTED Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 2 TASTEDAlmost beetroot-like 6 AWARDED Good length andhues with subtle A strong and consistent persistence of dark 2 AWARDEDperfumed aromas. group of wines with berry varietal fruitSimple and flavoursome a definite change in characters supported At the high end of theripe berry palate tannin structure. by lovely rich chocolaty spectrum there is noshowing both elegance oak and fine powdery such thing as a badand complexity with Prancing Horse tannins. Has elegance, wine and you get whatgood oak definition. $60 Estate The intensity and complexity. you pay for. ThoroughbredHandpicked Reserve Mornington 3-5 $80 Mongeard MugneretCollection Central Peninsula Pinot Noir Bass Phillip Vosne RomaneeOtago Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 Gippsland Pinot Burgundy Pinot Noir2012 HHHH1/2 A heady resinous nose Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHHHFresh cherry/raspberry smelling of cherries and Savoury style with some Oaky and earthy on thearomatics dominate the eucalypt with some stalkiness. Beginning nose with a minerallynose with its earthy/ leathery notes; similar to mature nicely. Quite element. Palate ismushroomy notes. The characters on the oaky on the nose smooth and linear withgenerous sweet fruit complex and layered and powerful oak on good fruit power andpalate is seamlessly palate showing a good the palate with some fine structured tannins.balanced with oak and Prancing Horse tannic grip. $80 delicate rose hip and It's spicy, textured andacid. $50 Estate Mornington Fromm Fromm strawberry fruit showing Peninsula Pinot Noir Vineyard through. $77Handpicked 2012 HHH Marlborough Pinot Handpicked elegant. 3-5 $100Collection Strawberry nose with Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 Capella VineyardMornington a minty note. Savoury Very interesting Mornington Prancing HorsePeninsula Pinot Noir palate has interesting European style of pinot. Peninsula Pinot Noir Clos Des Ormes2013 HHHH sweet/sour notes. Savoury and earthy 2013 HHH Morey Saint DenisA clean, stylish and on the nose and good A generous, warm and Burgundy Pinot Noirenticing spiced dark 3-5 $65 flavour definition on cooked fruit style with 2009 HHH1/2berry nose with sweet the very tight, yet soft, good flavour depth and Savoury and earthy withfruit generosity on the Soho McQueen palate. It has a certain intensity. $80 some floral persistencesimple and slightly Central Otago Pinot elegance and style. and good tanninsavoury palate. $50 Noir 2013 HHH Lerida Estate resolution. Ready for Oak-driven nose and 3-5 $80 Josephine Lake drinking now. $120 George Pinot NoirHandpicked very flavoursome 2010 HHHCollection Yarra palate loaded with Savoury nose developingValley Pinot Noir Turkish Delight-like earthy characters.2013 HHHH fruit. 3-5 $50 Warming sour cherryLovely spicy summer palate with greenberry aromas; some Yealands Estate touches. $75earthiness. Stalky Winemakers Reservecomplexity to the savoury Awatere Valleycedary palate with Marlborough Pinotbalancing berry fruit. $50 Noir 2013 HHH Slightly stewed stonefruitDomaine de La nose and jubey fruitVougeraie Terre de flavours layered withFamille Bourgogne chocolaty oak. $58France Pinot Noir2011 HHHH Austin's Wines AwaySmells of fresh Geelong Pinot Noirstrawberries with floral/ 2012 HHHspicy notes. Spicy, crisp Maturing aromas andpalate; everything in its Burgundian style ofplace with plenty of acidity palate developing somegiving life and length. $NA earthiness. $50Yealands Estate Pegasus BayWinemakers Reserve Waipara Valley PinotGibbston Central Noir 2012 HHHOtago Pinot Noir Powerful ripe fruit2013 HHH1/2 aromas with a hint ofLifted minty/floral menthol. Soft silky palatefragrances. Elegant tasting of eucalypt andsweet fruit palate plums. $56.99showing goodconcentration ofchocolaty raspberryflavours. 3-5 $5866 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

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196 TASTED92 AWARDEDC H A M P A GNE & S P A R KL I NGA most interesting tasting showing a big gap between the Australia & Blue Pyreneesprofessional performers and the pretenders. Sparkling wines NZ Pink/Rosé Methodedo require a high level of expertise and this shows in these Traditionelleresults. A great battle between the Aussies and Kiwis for New 15 TASTED Pyrenees Pinot NoirWorld dominance, however it is still hard to go past the 5 AWARDED Rosé Brut 2008 HHHvintage champagnes at the pointy end with their extra length Aged spicy fruit aromasand complexity. Slightly disappointing line- and complex tangy up from tank fermented peppery palate withAustralian Mistletoe Mozcato (charmant) to bottle mineral elements. $24& NZ Hunter Valley fermented examples.Moscato Moscato 2014 HHH There were a few nice Australian & A bright well-balanced drinks, whilst lacking NZ Sparkling6 TASTED wine with lovely light complexity, showed purity NV $10 - $20 fresh varietal fruit of fruit, good bubbles, no3 AWARDED characters. $22 overt sweetness and nice 18 TASTED balance of acid. 6 AWARDEDThe best wines here Australian &showed balanced sugar NZ Sparkling Arras Tasmania \"All over the place,\"and acid flavours with Under $10 Sparkling Rosé commented one judge.honeysuckle/lychee-like 2004 HHHH1/2 \"A number of fresh simplelift. Drink young and fresh! 5 TASTED A beautifully aged wines along with others 2 AWARDED wine. Nose is nutty with bottle aged charactersMorris Fairfield and layered with sweet that promised on the noseLady Rutherglen Anything that is oak elements. Quite a but didn’t deliver on theMoscato NV HHHH under $10 and is lifted zippy palate for its palate.\" However the bestFresh fruit aromas recommended is a good age with long lingering wines here are worthspiked with lovely floral buy agreed the judges. flavours with a slightly following up.notes and leading on At this price freshness tannic finish. $79.99to a very creamy palate without complexity isfull of pleasant upfront what is expected. South Point Estate Akarua Methode Te Hana Reservefruit flavours. $17.50 Sparkling South Traditionelle New Zealand Cuvée Queen Adelaide Eastern Australia Central Otago Brut NV HHHHBimbadgen Estate South Eastern Chardonnay Pinot Rosé NV HHH1/2 The nose is an ageingHunter Valley Australia Brut Noir NV HHH Pale pink wine with mix of toast and fruitSparkling Moscato NV HHH Lemony aromas; some fresh pome fruit with a long flavoursomeNV HHH1/2 Fresh tropical bouquet toasty development. aromas layered with palate showingBright pink wine and sweet peachy fruit Good core of fruit spicy yeasty notes. interesting cashew-likewith clean fresh fruit entry to the simple flavours with balancing Complex fruit palate complexity. $15.99bouquet and a zesty palate. $7.99 acidity. $5.99 has elegance. $35palate with sweet appleand Turkish Delight-like Yellowglen Pinkflavours. $18 Sparkling Rosé NV HHH Pure spicy strawberry bouquet and a clean, slightly sweet, but balanced, fruity palate. $14.99 Centennial Southern Highlands Brut Rosé NV HHH Lovely nose - clean and spicy. Palate is long, somewhat complex, with a tannic grip. $2868 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

varietal tastingTrentham Trentham Estate The Wine Society Australian & Wolf Blass YellowRiver Retreat Murray Darling Society Sparkling NZ Sparkling Label Pinot NoirMurray Darling Chardonnay Pinot Selection Reserve Vintage Chardonnay BrutChardonnay Pinot Noir NV HHHH Brut NV HHH $10 - $20 2012 HHHNoir Brut NV HHHH Lightly developed nose A lemon fresh bouquet Citrussy nose with someNicely developed nose with great secondary with a soft, sound, 7 TASTED honeyed development- smells of butterscotch characters evolving on simple, sweet fruit 2 AWARDED and a simple flavoursomeand yeast. Complex the palate. Has great palate. $10.99 palate. $17.99ageing citrus fruit palate balance, weight and Beresford Beacon A couple here showedwith secondary elements length. $16 Hill South Eastern some complexity but there Australiandeveloping. $12 Australia Cuvée were too many that were & NZ Brut NV HHH just too simple and lacked Sparkling Citrussy nose and a fruit or freshness and had NV $20 - $30 warm sweet palate unbalanced sweetness. starting to show some 15 TASTED development. $11.90 Yellowglen Pinot 2 AWARDED Jip Jip Rocks Noir Chardonnay Padthaway Sparkling 2012 HHH1/2 The judges were very Cuvée NV HHH A complex developed disappointed with this Slight marzipan bouquet and a nicely flight! They expected characters to the nose lifted palate with more for the price. and good primary fruit pleasant toasty nutty There were quite a few flavours on the toasty fruit flavours. $19.99 faulty wines showing palate. $19.95 oxidation, volatility or had sulphide issues. And others were developed without having fruit depth to carry them through. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 69

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGMojo Fizz Adelaide Lindemans Blue Pyrenees Myattsfield Jip Jip Rocks SouthHills Chardonnay Regional Series Methode Traditionelle Vineyards Methode Eastern AustraliaPinot Noir Brut Adelaide Hills Midnight Cuvée Champenoise Perth Sparkling ShirazCuvée NV HHHH Chardonnay Pinot Pyrenees Chardonnay Hills Pinot Noir NV HHHA pleasant flavoursome Noir 2011 HHHH 2010 HHHH Chardonnay A well-made balancedsparkling with nice Red fruit nose with Fruity bouquet with 2012 HHH style with spicy redfresh strawberry-like light yeasty autolysis some complexity Smells of mushrooms fruit characters andfruit characters on both characters and slightly developing. Long, and brioche and has a some developmentthe lifted nose and more complexity on the developed and well- clean fresh palate with evolving. $19.95fresh palate. $20 palate with good varietal balanced varietal fruit some nutty notes. $28 Morris Rutherglen fruit flavours. $22.99 palate with fine line of Sparkling ShirazBay Of FiresTasmania Wicks Methode lemony acid. $29 Australian & Durif NV HHHCuvée NV HHH Traditionelle Seppelt Salinger NZ Sparkling Vibrant blueberryEstery citrus aromas Adelaide Hills Vintage Cuvée Red NV bouquet and lively,with nice yeastiness. Chardonnay Pinot 2010 HHHH slightly drying tannicPalate is a complexity Noir 2011 HHHH Slight development 21 TASTED palate. A well-madeof toasty creamy A light nose with evolving on the nose 8 AWARDED wine. $20flavours. $29.99 slightly complex toasty with a tight bright fruit Beresford McLaren aromas leading to a palate that has a good Very mixed results here. Vale SparklingAustralian light but well-rounded acid structure and soft Generally a solid group Shiraz NV HHH& NZ palate that has a lovely mouthfeel. $29.99 showing Australia's Bright slightly complexSparkling creamy mouthfeel. $25 Wolf Blass Gold Label unique take on reds wine with a tangy gripVintage Adelaide Hills Pinot with bubbles. Overall and obvious oak. $21.90$20 - $30 Peter Lehmann Noir Chardonnay stylistically similar in Fox Creek Vixen Barossa Valley 2011 HHH1/2 character, these wines McLaren Vale21 TASTED Chardonnay Pinot Simple minerally style show fruit-driven Shiraz Cabernet9 AWARDED Noir Cuvée of sparkling with flavours with balanced Sauvignon Cabernet 2009 HHHH interesting texture and a tannins and sugar - the Franc NV HHHA very big step up here. Tight primary aromas very fine line and length hallmark of the style. A complexity of cedar,\"Greater line and length with good chardonnay of acidity. $24.99 cigar box and aged spicyoverall with some good characters evident on Yellowglen Perle Black Bubbles red fruit characters onyeast complexity creeping the long lingering palate Vintage Pinot by Shingleback nose and palate. $23in,\" said one judge. Others with lovely complexity Noir Chardonnay McLaren Vale Centennial Orangehad bottle complexity but starting to evolve. $26 Pinot Meunier Sparkling Shiraz NSW Sparklinglacked freshness or had a 2008 HHH1/2 NV HHHH Shiraz NV HHHhard character. Some yeasty Lovely sparkling smelling Smells of spicy jubey development on the nose of spices and plums fruits with a sweet, butSeppelt Fleur de Lys and showing a fine line with a zippy freshness balanced, palate withVintage Sparkling of acidity on the subtly on the palate balanced herbal notes. $252009 HHHH1/2 flavoured palate. $29.99 with lovely lifted blue Peregrine RidgeA long and very fruit and spices. $22.50 Heathcote Sparklingflavoursome straw Shiraz NV HHHcoloured sparkling with McGuigan Black Bright and spicy on thegood fruit intensity and Label Premium youthful nose with adeveloping attractive Release South young, fresh and elegantcomplexity that's Eastern Australia palate. $35underscored with a fine Sparkling Shirazline of acidity. $23.99 NV HHH1/2 A lovely spicy red berry bouquet and a balanced, slightly savoury, palate with spicy vibrancy and a touch of herbs. $10.99judges Trina Smith Tony Hooper Nic Bowen Senior sparkling Senior white winemaker for Winemaker for Starvedog winemaker Treasury Pernod Ricard Winemakers. Lane in the Adelaide Hills, part Wine Estates. Judge Bachelor of Applied Science of the Accolade Group and at the Rutherglen, in Oenology. Has worked in former sparkling winemaker small winemakers New Zealand, Yarra Valley also at Accolade wines. Judge and Riverina wine and the Riverland. Judged at at the Australian Sparkling shows and has the Melbourne wine show; Wine Show, Yarra Valley. Has completed the Len associate judge and judge at vintaged in Champagne, Evans Wine tutorial. the Brisbane wine show. Bordeaux and at Willow Bridge, WA.70 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

varietal tastingAustralian & Foxeys Hangout Andreola DirupoNZ Sparkling Mornington ValdobbiadeneRed Vintage Peninsula Sparkling Veneto Italy Shiraz 2012 HHHH Prosecco 2012 HHH13 TASTED Spicy and peppery on Toasty development to6 AWARDED the nose with slight the varietal fruit nose herbal notes. Lots of and retains good fruitA very mixed bag with pepper mingling with flavours. $32extremes in quality. The the lifted flavours andtraditional producers nutty complexity. $28 Europeanversus the producers Seppelt Original Sparklingwho are experimenting. Victoria Sparkling Vintage & NVThe better wines Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2showed true varietal Very attractive nutty 4 TASTEDcharacter and good caramel aromas 1 AWARDEDintegration of tannins and a rich and verywith aged complexity flavoursome palate Too many dry, simplerather than just being with an excellent tannin and phenolic wines here.reds with bubbles. structure. $24.99 Reillys Clare Valley Louis Bouillot Perle Sparkling Shiraz Peter Lehmann de Vigne France Akarua Methode 2012 HHH1/2 Black Queen Barossa Grande Reserve Traditionelle Young and fresh on the Valley Sparkling NV HHH Central Otago Brut nose and big soft, sweet Shiraz 2009 HHH Red fruit aromas with a NV HHHHH and spicy in the mouth An aged rustic character slight green edge and Unusual metallic-like supported by a fine line to the nose and jammy slightly caramalised pungency to the nose of acidity. $25 palate with slight nutty characters on the and a vibrant and tangy savoury notes. $42 palate. $18 palate with a lovely soft Gatt Wines Single complexity of flavours Vineyard High Eden Prosecco Australian supported by good acid Sparkling Shiraz & NZ length and structure. $32 2007 HHH 7 TASTED Vintage & Tempus Two Pewter Aged apple aromas 3 AWARDED NV $30 - $40 Series Adelaide Hills with rustic touches and Pinot Chardonnay soft, complex and well- \"The perfect brunch 28 TASTED 2011 HHHH1/2 balanced palate. $25 wine!\" said one judge. 13 AWARDED Smells toasty and \"They are for drinking yeasty with hintsGrampians Estate and not so much for Some really nice of burnt butter andRutherford Victoria thinking; nice dry Alka wines with good yeast hazelnuts. Big, lingeringSparkling Shiraz seltzer-like flavours.” balance, maintained and very flavoursome2010 HHHH fruit purity and plenty of palate with powerfulFloral fragrances with Riva dei Frati DOC complexity. The lesser yeasty autolysisviolet nuances and minty Treviso Prosecco wines showed artefact characters. $31.99touches. Vibrant well- NV HHH or development rather Heemskerkbalanced palate showing A light fresh apple than fruit characters and Wines Abel'sgood flavour line and bouquet with more some still show obvious Tempest Tasmanianice tannins. $35 apple characters on the faults which is a surprise Chardonnay Pinot palate with a touch of at this level. Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 Marc Van Haldern tropical fruit. $NA Creamy bouquet with Winemaker at Yalumba interesting ginger-like Wines. Formerly winemker Brown Brothers notes and leading to in South Africa for nine Limited Release quite a pretty palate with years plus French vintage King Valley Prosecco lots of pinot fruit notes experience. Judged at 2013 HHH with a good backbone of South African Veritas Alka Seltzer-like nose acid in support. $34.99 Show, Winemaker's and some nice fruit on Choice Awards, Wine the well-balanced, nicely Magazine & Michelangelo textured, palate. $20 Wine Awards. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 71

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGSwings & Saracen Estates Australian Grant Burge Helene Osawa Wines PrestigeRoundabouts Marée Margaret & NZ Grande Cuvée Collection MethodeBackyard Stories River Methode Vintage & Tasmania Pinot Traditionelle NewMargaret River Traditionnelle NV $40+ Noir Chardonnay Zealand ChardonnayChardonnay Pinot 2010 HHH 2004 HHHHH Pinot Noir BrutNoir 2012 HHHH Toasty lemon 15 TASTED A serious style. Great nose NV HHHH1/2Bright strawberry lift to sherbet aromas 11 AWARDED - all Marmite and yeast- Nice nutty nose withthe nose with toasty and well-developed Apart from a very few like from the autolysis. a spicy lift and slightdevelopment which flavoursome palate. pretenders this was a Excellent palate line and honeyed aged notes. Thefollows through to the Good structure. $38 very classy group of length with seamless finely chiselled palatelong, fresh and very Cradle Vintage enjoyable Aussie and balance between the fruit has some lovely flavoursflavoursome palate. $35 Brut South Eastern Kiwi sparklings. They and aged characters. $55 and good yeastiness.Bream Creek Australia Methode had complexity that Arras EJ Carr Late Excellent balance andTasmania Cuvée Traditionnelle came close in quality, Disgorged Methode length. $502008 HHHH 2010 HHH but uniquely different, Traditionelle Tasmania Chandon Yarra ValleyNose shows musty Subtle lemon sorbet to French champagnes. Brut 2002 HHHHH Blanc de Blancbruised apple-like bouquet with a nice The cool climate regions Excellent honeyed age 2010 HHHH1/2characters. Vibrant nuttiness. Fresh and come to the fore here. obvious on the nose with Developed citrussywell-structured palate, creamy sweet fruit a nice dash of cinnamon aromas and livelynice mineral line and as palate. $39 Brown Brothers and clove-like characters. flavoursome palate withone judge said, \"Very Gallagher Canberra Patricia King Big, rich and toasty in interesting \"‘Whiskytasty\". $39 District Blanc de Valley Pinot Noir the mouth with a lovely sour’-like characters,\"Coldstream Blanc 2008 HHH Chardonnay Brut flavour profile. $149.99 according to oneHills Pinot Noir Herbal tobacco-like 2008 HHHHH Arras Tasmania judge. Good length andChardonnay notes to the nose and A complex developed Blanc de Blanc structure. $40.992010 HHH1/2 fine simple palate with a nose with interesting 2004 HHHHH Arras Brut EliteA nutty nose with some nice tang to it. $35 hints reminiscent of the An elegant pale straw Tasmania Brutyeasty notes and a well- Hungerford seaside. The palate is soft, sparkling with subtle NV HHHHrounded mouthfilling Hill Dalliance fresh and flavoursome dusty elements to A light but complexpalate - quite simple but Tumbarumba and quite robust with the nose and a finely bouquet smelling ofwell structured. $32.99 Chardonnay Pinot plenty of length. $48 honed palate with zippy apples and cinnamon.Mistletoe Petillant Noir 2010 HHH complexity of flavours Soft, elegant and well-Hilltops Blanc de Good yeast autolysis and excellent acidity. Still structured palate withBlanc 2012 HHH aromas. Light savoury/ very fresh still. $79.99 good mousse. VeryA developed toasty mushroomy palate. Very Heemskerk moreish. $49.99oaky nose and sweet/ moreish! $35 Wines Traditional Bird in Hand Nestsour citrussy palate with Leura Park Vintage Method Tasmania Egg Joy Adelaidemarzipan notes. $35 Grande Cuvée Chardonnay Pinot Hills Pinot NoirCroser Piccadilly Bellarine Peninsula Noir 2009 HHHH1/2 2007 HHH1/2Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Chardonnay \"Makes you think of A beautifully agedChardonnay 2011 HHH warm sunshine,\" thought sparkling. Plenty of2010 HHH Nose is a nice mix of one judge. Biscuity toasty oak charactersCitrus, vanilla and some red fruit and toastiness. citrussy aromas and a on the nose and nicealmond characters on Slightly sweet palate, tight linear palate with creamy texture in thethe nose. Precisely some complexity and excellent frothy lemon mouth. $85chiselled palate. $36 texture. $30 persistence. $59.99 Akarua Methode Traditionelle star ratings  Bannockburn Central Otago Vintage BrutThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2010 HHHexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. \"A warm, open,All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry welcoming wine,\"professionals and are compared in peer according to one judge.classes by three judges. Pretty honeysuckleCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, notes. $48a major mail-order business. Grant Burge BlancCD Cellar door price. de Noirs AustraliaCDO Cellar door only. Pinot Noir NV HHHSO Sold out. Simple aromas of apples$N/A Price not available at time of printing. and pears with a tangy Contact information pg 144. well-balanced palate; some complexity. $40 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au72 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

varietal tastingChampagne Drappier BlancUnder $70 de Blancs France Champagne11 TASTED NV HHHH1/210 AWARDED Nice level of yeast autolysis on the noseVery consistent group of and a bright and creamylinear and concentrated toasty palate withminerally styles with excellent persistence ofwell-retained freshness flavour showing a slightamongst the best peppery element. $44examples. There were a Drappier Millesimefew that showed some Exception Francebottle development and Champagnecharacteristics which 2008 HHHH1/2detracted slightly from Ageing creamy yeastythe overall quality. aromas and tangy, slightly linear, palate.Piper Heidsieck Good flavour intensityFrance Brut supported by a nice acidChampagne structure across theNV HHHHH length of the palate. $47A delightfully complex Drappier D'Orbouquet of brioche and France Champagnelemons with an excellent NV HHHHlength of creamy Good level of melon andbready/citrus-like flavour grapefruit-like aromas.profile. Has lovely bright Palate is fresh, vibrantretained freshness. $50 and flavoursome with some peppery notes and good acid structure. $42 GH Mumm Cordon Rouge France Brut NV HHH1/2 A very complex style with bruised apple-like yeast autolysis and good palate structure with lovely subtle flavours. $39.90 Deutz Classic NV France Champagne NV HHH1/2 Nose is developed and yeasty with a herbal touch. Fresh, light palate with tight entry and plenty of length. $46Collard Picard Perrier JouetCuvée Selection France Grand BrutFrance Champagne ChampagneNV HHHH1/2 NV HHH1/2Smells of freshly baked A delightful drink - notbread with hints of overly complex - thatmushrooms and vanilla. smells of the seasideThe palate has buttered and tastes like a lemonbrioche-like flavour orchard. $59complexity with a goodtight acid structure. $70 November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 73

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING GH Mumm Le Rose Champagne France Rosé Over $100 NV HHH1/2 Complex toasty 5 TASTED bouquet underscored 5 AWARDED by some red fruits. Very flavoursome red fruit A wow group! palate showing excellent Beautifully focused fruit acidity. $79.99 characters here and showing another level of length and complexity with lovely nutty brioche, classic creamy notes balancing the seamless fresh acid flavours.Veuve Monsigny GH Mumm Le Moet & Chandon Charles Heidsieck Dom Pérignon BrutBrut Selection Millesime France Grand Vintage Brut Brut Reserve France France ChampagneFrance Champagne Vintage Brut France Champagne Champagne 2004 HHHHHNV HHH 2006 HHHH 2006 HHH NV HHHHH Some excellent ageGood aroma complexity A wine with Good yeast autolysis Beautifully toasted development obvious onand a soft flavoursome complexity, flavour with excellent flavour bouquet that's complex the nose and heaps ofpalate with an excellent and length. Cashew complexity and plenty of and developed. Good long intense flavours onstructure. $24.99 nut characters mingle acid length. $95.99 rich fruit obvious on the a beautifully structuredMoet & Chandon with some interesting Perrier Jouet Blason very flavoursome palate palate that shows a hintImpérial Brut France elements reminiscent France Rosé NV HHH with a slight meaty of sweet caramelizedChampagne NV HHH of the sea. $89.99 A well-made style. Good savouriness. Great acid characters. $249Yeasty complexity pinot fruit characters structure. $100 Amour de Deutzto the nose and nice with some development Collard Picard Cuvée Millesime Francenutty line to the slightly happening. $89.99 Dom Picard Grand Champagnesweet, flavoursome Deutz Blanc de Blancs Cru Blanc de Blanc 2003 HHHHHpalate. $65.99 France Champagne France Champagne Complex bouquet - 2007 HHH NV HHHHH smells of vanilla, yeastChampagne Light but complex nose The nose has vanilla and and nuts. Great palateVintage & NV smelling of lemons and nut-like aromas that mingle - has a lovely finesse and$70-$100 brioche with similar with bready/mushroomy is loaded with flavour and characters on the elements. Palate is with an interesting finish7 TASTED palate. $78 complex and yet fresh; that's almost custard layered with good flavours powder-like. $3056 AWARDED and tight lively acidity. $100 Deutz France ChampagneAnother consistent line- 2006 HHHHup of similar wines to A complex toasty nosethe previous group. smelling of roasted nuts and a palate that is clean and fresh and also complex with a long fine finish. $110 Collard Picard Cuvée Prestige France Champagne NV HHH1/2 Quite a spirituous note on both the nose and palate. Nice nutty toastiness to the nose with a good flavour profile. $8574 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

varietal tastingCOP144337 A helping hand in crafting fine wines In the modern, dynamic wine industry the hand crafting of great wines is often overlooked. Whilst only 2% of the world’s wines are made using new oak barrels, a high proportion of the ‘great wines’ of the world are handcrafted in them. For almost two centuries the cooperages of the Tonnellerie François Frères Group have been producing barrels for these wines. The TFF Group has evolved from humble beginnings to now having its brands internationally recognised throughout the wine world. Through its Demptos Research Centre at the University of Bordeaux, it has over the last 20 years quantified the science to explain why new oak barrels provide that added dimension to allow very good fruit to realise its full potential. Classic Oak, on behalf of the TFF Group, is proud to lend a helping hand to the premium programs of many Australian and New Zealand producers. Australia: (02) 9479 4700 New Zealand: 021 500 607 [email protected] 04 472 6050 www.classicoakproducts.com [email protected] November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 75

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINLIMESTONE COAST FAMILY AFFAIR THERE is a new kid on the block in Coonawarra - Jack Estate. Having taken over the Poplars premises and what is now the Coonawarra Jack winery, the Lees family and winemakers Shannon Sutherland and Jared Stringer process fruit from both the Limestone Coast and the Murray Darling regions under the Jack Estate and M-R Series labels. The cellar door is open seven days 10am-5pm but closed on public holidays. Jack Estate, 15025 Riddock Highway, Coonawarra; phone (08) 8736 3130. www.jackestate.com.au.STATION HANDS the ingredients together to bring to life BLEND YOUR OWN something unique.”IT OPENED as the Terra Rossa Wine Club, IT IS a dream for many wine lovers to bethen morphed into Penola Station but now The dinner menu features dishes able to blend their own wine using realthe Penola eatery has a new identity as like creamy tomato-based yabbie winery fruit parcels, but it is a dream thatCoonawarra Station and a new chef in bisque drizzled with Pendleton lemon- comes true on a daily basis at Wynn’sDavid Carrigan. infused olive oil, char-grilled lime and Coonawarra Estate, one of Australia’s most crusty house-made bread; pan-seared globally famous producers. Owners Steve Moignard and Qin Shu scallops, prawns and Moreton Bayhave opened another eatery in Mount bugs served on saffron infused risotto, Visitors to the cellar door and the interestingGambier, to be known as Spitroast, and milk-fed lamb cutlets wrapped interpretive centre can also enjoy the Wynn'sleaving Carrigan and his partner Andrea in prosciutto, served on crushed “Make Your Own Blend” experience.a free hand in operating Coonawarra kipfler potatoes, ratatouille and grilledStation in Penola. asparagus, drizzled with red wine jus. This fun and interactive experience allows anyone who has dreamed of working in a “My passion is to create original, There is also a degustation menu, while winery to become a winemaker for a day,beautifully crafted meals using local the wine list is dotted with local standouts, get their hands dirty in the laboratory andproduce,” says Carrigan, who took including Brands Laira, Zema Estate, create their own blend from cabernet, shirazover as chef before becoming manager/ Patrick and Raidis Estate, with a good and merlot fruit.lessee and began his career in Penola. selection by the glass and some imports to coax in local winemakers. The aim is to blend the various components “Our focus is freshness and quality; to end up with a wine that resembles thesome ingredients are hand picked from Open seven days a week, Coonawarra famous Wynn’s blend, although guests arethe hydroponic and organic vegetable Station serves bistro lunches 11.30am- encouraged to follow their own instinctsgarden and are grown specifically to 2.30pm and dinner from 6-8.30pm; phone during the blending process, with thecoincide with our menu. Food is an (08) 8737 3350. www.coonawarrastation. chance to get some advice from one of theart and I thoroughly enjoy combining com.au. Wynn’s team. All those taking part in the exercise get a personalised bottle of their own customised blend to take home. The MYOB tours run from 11am and 2pm daily, and last about an hour. The cost is $55 and bookings are essential. The Wynn's Coonawarra Estate cellar door is off Memorial Drive, Coonawarra and is open seven days from 10am-5pm expect Christmas Day and Good Friday; phone (08) 8736 2225. www.wynns.com.au.76 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

travelbriefsCHANGE OF PACE and I were lovers of wine and both jobs are BELL RINGS THE CHANGES science-based,” says Trotter. “We'd enjoyedLUKE TROTTER from Blok Estate, in the wines Blok produced - particularly the SUE BELL has almost completed her missionCoonawarra, is one of the more interesting cabernet. of turning an historic Coonawarra woolshedwinemakers in Australia. into an interactive winery and cellar door - “We know the challenges that face us and with a little bit of help from family and friends. Blessed with a degree in aeronautical the past few years have all been about slowand astronautical engineering, he studied consolidation and cutting costs, but now The former Stonehaven wine maker, whowinemaking after his parents Gary (a former we have plans to expand, maybe double now crafts wines under her own Bellwetherregional journalist) and Ann purchased production and get national distribution.” label, was awarded a $110,000 grant tothe vineyard just north of Penola in 2005 further develop the Glen Roy shearingwhen “the business was not failing but Blok Estate, Riddoch Highway; Penola; shed, built of local stone by illegal Chinesewas flailing”. phone (08) 8737 2734. www.blok.com.au. goldfield migrants, which had lain derelict for many years. The shed was built in 1868 Blok Estate is one of the quiet achievers COASTAL GEM and when Bell established her Bellwetherof the Coonawarra region, producing label she wanted to use it to establish afully mature cabernet sauvignon and ROBE is one of the gems of the Limestone winery with a difference. Now, with luxuriesshiraz released years later than many of Coast region, a small fishing port known for its like hot water and toilets in place, her visiontheir neighbours. historical buildings. It is also home to Karatta, is becoming a reality. a small family winery about 15 minutes out of If you are visiting Coonawarra, the Blok town that welcomes visitors at weekends and The former dux of the Len Evans tutorial hascellar door and gallery is located in a stone is open daily during school holidays. a small portfolio headed by a Coonawarrahomestead surrounded by a green canopy cabernet sauvignon and a Tamar Valleyof vines. The tasting room has a red gum- David and Peg Woods purchased the chardonnay, and a second label known ascarved serving area and an adjacent art and beautiful Karatta House in 1988, and chose the Ant Series.craft gallery, featuring works from regional the name to link the history and the fineartists. There is also a lounge area in which architecture of the house with Robe’s first A camping ground, communityto relax while sampling a local cheese platter winery. The homestead is a heritage-listed kitchen and vegetable garden will beor homemade scones. icon that dates to 1858. a focus of the cellar door, which will open in time for the summer holidays. The current Blok Estate production is They source fruit from their two local Bellwether Wines, Glen Roy Shearingaround 2500 cases but there are plans vineyards, 12 Mile and Venison, and both Shed, Coonawarra; phone 0417 080 945.to double that over the next few years. vineyardshaveTerraRossasoiloverlimestone. www.bellwetherwines.com.au.The wines are currently made at nearby They produce a full range of reds, whites andLadbroke Grove, with Trotter taking advice sparkling wines. Above: Blok Cellar Door Sign.from Sean Murphy. Below: Blok Coonawarra selection. The Karratta cellar door and winery, 292 Clay “Moving from aeronautical engineering to Wells Rd, Robe; phone (08) 8735 7255. www. Opposite page: Coonawarra Station's milk-fedwinemaking is a pretty big step, but both Bec karattawines.com.au. lamb cutlets. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 77

130 TASTED106 AWARDEDL I M E S T O NE C O A S TA region often described as the “Bordeaux of Australia”, Sauvignon Jip Jip Rocks PadthawayCoonawarra and the overall Limestone Coast region Blanc & BLENDS Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHHof Southern Australia has often been applauded for its Subtle citrus aromas with aelegant yet powerful cabernets, and this tasting continues 11 TASTED lean clean palate showingto showcase these wines at their best. Less noted are the 6 AWARDED good varietal flavours with acidgreat mid-weight shiraz wines, perhaps more in the French spine. $19.95syrah mould than the bigger styles up north. The region is A mixed bag. \"It was pleasinga red wine mecca (and don’t forget the straight merlots) to see the absence of wine Reschke Coonawarrabut also check out some quality rieslings and chardonnays faults here,\" said one judge. Fumé Sauvignon Blancthat are also on offer. Generally these tended 2013 HHH to nice non-varietal crisp Interesting complex nose drinking styles. dominated by oak and a very \"together\" varietal palate. $20 Pinot Gris 3 TASTED 1 AWARDEDSparkling One good example shows it can be done in this region!6 TASTED4 AWARDED Norfolk Rise Vineyard Koonara Lucy & Alice Mount Benson Sauvignon Mount Gambier Pinot GrisInterestingly the sparkling reds Blanc 2014 HHHH 2014 HHHHperformed better than the Pungent sauvignon blanc fruit Colour showing a trace ofwhites here. Aimed more at aromas and lightly floral crisp pink. Nose has lifted stonefruitthe easy drinking market. lively palate with good fruit fragrances and the palate flavour depth and long vibrant is soft and sweet but well-Majella Coonawarra Hoggies Estate Sparkling finish. $16 balanced by the acidity. $19.95Sparkling Shiraz Coonawarra Chardonnay Raidis Estate The Kelpie2008 HHHH Pinot Noir NV HHH1/2 Coonawarra Sauvignon RieslingDeveloped earthy chocolaty Toasty nose with a hint of Blanc 2013 HHH1/2bouquet with similar characters apples. Crisp clean palate Some nicely developing varietal 5 TASTEDechoed on the long, soft and with attractive flavours fruit laced with tight acidity and 4 AWARDEDcomplex palate with a good line with some age complexity a trace of attractive phenolicof acidity. $28 developing. $16.50 characters. $20 Small but solid class of tightSyn Rouge Sparkling Majella Minuet Cape Thomas Mount acid varietal styles varying fromShiraz NV HHH1/2 Coonawarra Sparkling Benson Limestone the green apple/lime wines toVibrant spicy cherry aromas Riesling NV HHH Coast Sauvignon Blanc the floral ones.with tarry touches. Ripe fruit Aperitif style with fresh floral 2014 HHHpalate with sweetness carrying fragrances and a crisp fruit- A crisp varietal in the grassy Majella Coonawarrathrough to the finish. $17.50 driven palate. $30 gooseberry spectrum with a Riesling 2013 HHHH high level of acidity. $16.99 Very good commercial style. It's an elegant wine with delicious citrussy fruit, a trace of development and fine crisp acidity. $17 Jamiesons Run Limestone Coast Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2013 HHH Attractive gooseberry-like nose with light gooseberry flavours starting to develop nicely. $1378 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

regional tasting Jamiesons Run Hand Crafted by Geoff Limestone Coast Hardy Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2013 HHHH Chardonnay 2012 HHH Oaky nose layered with Attractive fruit-driven style with grapefruit-like varietal a medium weight fruit palate characters. Good depth of lined with crisp acidity. $28 oak/fruit flavours with malo complexity. 3-5 $13 Rosé Morambro Creek 2 TASTED Herbert Mt Gambier Pinot Padthaway Chardonnay 2 AWARDED Noir 2012 HHH1/2 2013 HHHH A richness of cherries and Elegant chardonnay with good A couple of nice drinks plums on the nose with varietal fruit and hints of oak. showing good texture. eucalypt notes and rich spicy Good complexity to the nose flavours laced with velvety and lingering richness to the Reschke Pierre De tannins. $25 palate. $31.95 Ronsard Coonawarra Rosé 2013 HHH1/2Hoggies Estate Coonawarra Penley Estate Aradia Smells of strawberries and has Hand Crafted by GeoffRiesling 2012 HHHH Coonawarra Chardonnay a rich toffee sweet fruit palate Hardy Limestone CoastAn off-dry style with toasty 2012 HHH1/2 with a good acid balance and a Dolcetto 2012 HHH1/2development evolving on the Developed toasty aromas clean finish. $23 Light tight cherry aromas andnose and a soft rounded sweet showing leesy complexity and attractive elegant palate withpalate balanced by some tight an attractive tight fruit palate Herbert Mt Gambier Rosé lingering cherry flavours. Aacidity. $14.99 with seamless oak balance. 2013 HHH pleasant surprise. 3-5 $30 Fresh confectionery fruitLeconfield Old Vines 3-5 $19.99 fragrances and tight, drierCoonawarra Riesling style palate. \"Serve cold on a2013 HHH1/2 Governor Robe Wines Robe summer's day.\" $16 Reschke Mt GambierFloral/apple bouquet with a Chardonnay 2013 HHH Pinot Noir 2010 HHHcrisp racy acid palate tasting Floral notes on the citrus/melon Other Red Aged complex savoury aromasof fresh lemons. Offers good fruit nose with a warm and Varietals with hints of fruit. Meaty palatecellaring potential. slightly oily palate that has tight with the acid giving it life. Drink acidity. 3-5 $15 5 TASTED now. $70 3-5 $24.95 5 AWARDED DiGiorgio Family WinesRaidis EstateThe Kid Single Lucindale Chardonnay Consistent class with a coupleVineyard Coonawarra 2013 HHH of surprises. Worth trying! Merlot & BlendsRiesling 2013 HHH A well-made sweeterA crisp varietal with a green commercial style with nice Hand Crafted by Geoff 6 TASTEDapple nose and elegant tropical characters and Hardy Limestone Coastflavoursome fruit palate. $20 Lagrein 2012 HHHH1/2 4 AWARDED Dense inky dark cherry aromasChardonnay balancing oak. 3-5 $18 with iodine-like characters. \"Nicely ripe fruit here rather Big rich palate with very good than the green fruit of the past12 TASTED Landaire Hand Picked flavour intensity, firm fruit which is nice to see,\" said one8 AWARDED Single Vineyard intensity and great tannic judge. The 2012 vintage was a Padthaway Chardonnay finish. $30 good one from this region.\"A solid class of well-structured 2013 HHHwines, not trying to be A big rich style with good fruit, Governor Robe Estate Robemore than they could be,\" lots of oak and old fashioned Pinot Noir 2013 HHH1/2commented one judge. The best buttery characters. $28 An elegant crimson winehad fruit weight concentration in with spicy cherry fruit nicelybalance with appropriate use of Leconfield Coonawarra integrated with the oak andoak, in some cases less is more Chardonnay 2012 HHH mouthcoating tannins. $20in modern style structure. Subtle melon/oak bouquet and a fresh flavoursome palate showing some richness. $24.95 judgesBruce Redman Dave Matthews Paul GordonChief winemaker for Redman Regional Chief Senior winemaker for TheWines. Third-generation Winemaker for Hamilton Wine Group.family member, with Lindemans Wines In the industry for thewinemaking responsibilities in Karadoc (Victoria). past 23 years and hasfor the past 20 years. Previously winemaker previously worked atAssociate judge Limestone with Penfolds and Lindemans, Southcorp.Coast Wine Show. Winner of Rosemount. Judge at Judged at the AucklandWinestate’s best Australasian Cowra, Adelaide and wine show and hascabernet trophy in 2003 Canberra wine shows been an associate at thefor the Redman Cabernet and last year at the Los Melbourne, RutherglenSauvignon 2000. Angeles wine show. and Canberra wine shows. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 79

LIMESTONE COAST Redman Coonawarra Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Merlot Merlot 2009 HHHH1/2 2012 HHH A very varietal wine - it's all A medium weight cabernet violets, cassis and sweet cedar. with pleasant confectionery According to one judge it has fruit and some powerful the 'fist in a velvet glove' type tannins. 3-5 $24.95 of power. Long lingering finish. Penley Estate Chertsey 3-5 $38 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Merlot 2012 HHH A big rich style with tight blueberry fruits and drying tannins. Needs more time. 3-5 $50.50Quarisa Wines Treasures The Redman Coonawarra Quarisa Wines TreasuresCoonawarra Merlot Cabernet Merlot Shiraz Coonawarra Cabernet2012 HHHH 2003 HHH Sauvignon 2012 HHHHHLovely rich nose, smells of fruit Lovely earthy chocolaty Fragrant aromas of dark fruit,cake. Has a slightly aggressive drink that's reached its peak. violets and cedar oak. Excellentpalate but showing good fruit Obvious quality fruit here. Drink mid-weight palate withand mouthcoating tannins. now. $70 pleasant fruit/oak flavours that grow on the palate. Nice tannin 3-5 $14.99 Cabernet structure. $14.99 Sauvignon 2013Smith & Hooper Reserve & 2012Wrattonbully Merlot2012 HHHH 26 TASTED 23 AWARDEDAn elegant wine with a plumy/ An excellent class oflolly nose and silky smooth consistent cabernets. \"Lots ofpalate with lingering oak and tight youthful wines; othersfruit flavours with long velvety have been worked hard totannins. 3-5 $NA get further character - both are worthy,\" said the judges.Katnook Estate Cabernet is the hero of theCoonawarra Merlot region and some of these2012 HHH1/2 offer great value for the price!Smoky oak-driven nose and rich Majella The Malleeasmooth palate with some fruit Coonawarra Cabernetsweetness and balancing oak Sauvignon Shirazand tannins. 3-5 $40 2010 HHHH1/2 \"Will appeal to many,\"Majella Coonawarra suggested one judge. Lots of Wolf Blass Gold Label plump sweet black cherry-like Coonawarra CabernetMerlot 2012 HHH fruit with lashings of oak and all Sauvignon 2012 HHHHHMinty spicy fragrances with a carried by some lovely acidity.leaner spicy minty palate and soft Dark and fragrant berry nose 3-5 $80 edged with floral-like elements.tannin backbone. 3-5 $28 Majella The Musician Lovely flavours of sweet ripe Coonawarra CabernetCabernet Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2 fruit laced with young oak.Blends A leaner style with simple Needs more time in the cellar varietal fruits edged with to really shine. 5+ $297 TASTED herbal-like notes and wrapped in lovely ripe tannins. $18 Flint's of Coonawarra7 AWARDED Quarisa Wines Treasures Gammon's Crossing Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 Coonawarra Cabernet A soft and very approachable Sauvignon 2012 HHHHHAnother fine approachable wine with bright berry fruit A young pretty crimson winegroup. Although blends, the nicely integrated with the oak with a minty menthol red berrycabernet still shows through and velvety tannins. $14.99 nose and very flavoursomeas the major variety. \"There palate with intense fruit/oakseemed more sweet fruit and characters and a very firmrichness here,\" noted one judge. tannin structure. 5+ $2280 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

regional tastingMorambro Creek Mt Monster Limestone Majella CoonawarraPadthaway Cabernet Coast Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon 2012 HHHH1/2 2013 HHH 2012 HHHA riper style with lolly sweet A lovely fruit-driven style with a Blueberries and cedary oakfruit fragrances showing violet mineral edge and soft and rich on the lifted minty nose andnuances. Long lingering palate in the mouth. $15.95 warming palate. 3-5 $33rich with fruit flavours. Hasgreat structure and freshness. Penley Estate Phoenix Picarus WrattonbullyNeeds time. 5+ $31.95 Coonawarra Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2012 HHH 2013 HHHRandom Shot by Farmer's A.C. Byrne & Co Vital wine with restrained A bigger style with juicy olive/Leap Padthaway Cabernet Coonawarra Cabernet power. Bright cassis fruit, some cassis fruit and big firm mouth-Sauvignon 2013 HHHH Sauvignon 2012 HHH1/2 good oak and drying tannins. coating tannins. $24.99A lovely complexity of rich fruiton the nose with a background A lean style of dark fruit 3-5 $19.99of oak. Nicely structured palatewith ripe fruit and oak flavours. seamlessly integrated with cigar DiGiorgio Family Wines Cabernet box-like oak with a fine line of Lucindale Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 3-5 $16 grippy tannins. 3-5 $9.99 Sauvignon 2012 HHH & Older An oak-driven wine, quite cedary.Terramore For The Love Katnook Estate Founder's Some mintiness with slight edgy 13 TASTEDof Wine Coonawarra Block Coonawarra tannins. 3-5 $20Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 12 AWARDED 2012 HHH1/22012 HHHH Olives and licorice on the nose Taylor Ferguson Family A very strong class of nicelyNose has hints of bacon oak with a touch of violets. Soft, Reserve South Australia ageing wines. \"Great to seewith delicate violet nuances. rich, fruity palate nicely evolved Cabernet Sauvignon wines which are from theGood fruit sweetness on the and ready for drinking. $20 2012 HHH older outstanding vintages,\"palate with firm tannins. Needs An upfront drink-now cabernet said the judges. \"These aretime. 5+ $25 brimming over with savoury the wines consumers are fruit and spicy oak. $20 looking for.\" Mildara Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 HHH Lean and minty. Menthol Casella 1919 Limestone characters on the nose, sweet Coast Cabernet Sauvignon fruit intensity on a slightly hot 2006 HHHHH palate. 3-5 $30 Intense concentration of cassis, chocolate, tapenade Leconfield Coonawarra and cedar on the nose. Big Cabernet Sauvignon earthy oaky palate with 2012 HHH attractive sweet blue fruits still Good oak-driven commercial on show. Another 3-5 years left style that's high in acid with in it. $100 attractive berry fruits. Reschke Empyrean 3-5 $33.50 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHHH1/2Bowen Estate Aromas of tar and soy onCoonawarra Cabernet the nose and has a mediumSauvignon 2012 HHHH Kopparossa Estate bodied, well-structured, palateTight oaky nose edged with Coonawarra Cabernet showing elegant sweet varietalfloral/violet fragrances. Very Sauvignon 2012 HHH1/2 fruit and has a long crisp acidyouthful palate, good fruit A forward evolved cabernet. A finish. $150sweetness and intensity and touch minty on the nose with afine firm tannins. 5+ $32 sweet fruit palate and soft tannin structure. 3-5 $29.50 St Hugo CoonawarraRedman Coonawarra Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon Katnook Estate 2010 HHHH2012 HHHH Coonawarra Cabernet A stylish, well-focused, wineA leaner style of cabernet Sauvignon 2012 HHH1/2 with dark fruits, violets andshowing dark berry fruit, smoky The sweet black varietal fruit mint on the nose and a verycedary oak and slightly 'furry' characters are seamlessly attractive, well-structured fruit-tannins with quite a drying integrated with coconut-style oak driven palate. $49.99finish. 5+ $35 and firm tannins. 3-5 $40 Katnook Estate OdysseyJacob's Creek Reserve Penley Estate Reserve Coonawarra CabernetCoonawarra Cabernet Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHHHSauvignon 2012 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2012 HHH1/2 Kopparossa Estate Rich cedary oak overlays theLean and elegant with sweet A big powerful wine with black Vintage Reserve minty/menthol-like fruit with itsfloral fruit, smoky oak and olive and tar-like characters and Coonawarra Cabernet hint of meatiness and soft ripemouth puckering tannins. Good has a massive palate structure. Sauvignon 2012 HHH tannin structure. 3-5 $100drinking now or cellar it. $17.99 A soft approachable wine. Nice 5+ $50.50 concentration of cherry berry fruit, smoky oak and tannins. 3-5 $80 November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 81

LIMESTONE COASTOlivia Coonawarra The Roy Kidman Wine Co Kopparossa Estate VintageCabernet Sauvignon Bar Over Box Coonawarra Reserve Coonawarra2009 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2012 HHHHHA complexity of cigar box oak 2009 HHH A big overripe beefy wineand cassis fruit aromas. Soft Dark berry and chocolate that, according to one judge,palate entry, good sweet fruit on the nose. Soft and round \"Assaults the senses and needsflavours and long lingering in the mouth with drying time to calm down\". Massesfinish. $19 tannins. $16.50 of sweet vanillin oak sitting on top of the fruit. Good cellaringRoy The Cattleman Barristers Block option. 5+ $80Coonawarra Cabernet Wrattonbully CabernetSauvignon 2005 HHHH Sauvignon 2010 HHHSavoury meaty style Big, toasty and oaky withapproaching its peak. Complex rich raisined-like fruit and ripedark chocolaty bouquet and a tannins. $35lean, silky smooth palate withgood tannins. $27.50 Kopparossa Estate Vintage ReserveZema Estate Estate Grown Coonawarra Cabernet Wyndham EstateCoonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH Founders Reserve Landaire Single VineyardSauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Subdued chocolaty bouquet Limestone Coast Shiraz Estate Grown PadthawayA savoury olive and soy sauce- and sweet fruit flavours with Cabernet 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHHHlike nose and a lean and tight balancing oak and tannins. $80 An attractive peppery spicy Very attractive ripe plumhigh acid palate layered with nose with just a whiff of violet- fragrances with lovely spicyfirm tannins. $28.95 Shiraz Blends like nuances. The flavoursome and smoky elements threaded palate is full of rich sweet through. Long lingering sweetOrlando Jacaranda Ridge 3 TASTED fruit and has a nice balance of fruit flavours nicely supportedCoonawarra Cabernet 2 AWARDED tannins. 3-5 $21.99 by some huge tannins. NeedsSauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 time. 5+ $32A keeper with chocolaty oak A small group but a couple of Wolf Blass White Labeltending to dominate some very rippers! A nice combination of Robe Mount Benson Shirazgood varietal fruit with a long shiraz and cabernet. Cabernet 2012 HHHHtannic finish. 3-5 $69.99 Very approachable with lovely intense sweet concentrationZema Estate Family of fruit cake-like varietal fruit.Selection Coonawarra Some nice aged charactersCabernet Sauvignon developing. 3-5 $452008 HHH1/2Big and powerful cabernet with Shirazan excellent concentration ofcassis-like fruit, violet notes 31 TASTEDand well-handled oak. $45.95 28 AWARDED Excellent class! \"Terrific group Orlando Lawson's of mid-weight, tight and spicy Padthaway Shiraz red fruit wines - very Rhonish in style,\" said one judge. \"The tannins were beautifully fine and soft yet would also be worth putting away.\" 2005 HHHHH Very attractive, aged wine but still tight and in very good star ratings  condition with the varietal fruit still evident and nicelyThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of integrated with sweet earthyexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. and leathery characters. MoreAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry years left in it. 3-5 $64.99professionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 144. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au82 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

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LIMESTONE COAST GWD_Winestate_Nov_2014_90x270mm_The Colonial Estate In Exile Barossa Shiraz Cab 2011_HR.pdf 1 4/09/2014 8:02 am DiGiorgio Family Wines Flint's of Coonawarra Coonawarra Shiraz Rostrevor Coonawarra 2012 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHH Complex, slightly developed A youthful peppery nose and licorice and spicy oak aromas. a sweet young palate with Soft well-balanced shiraz intense fruit flavours. It's fruit palate with an oaky elegant but powerful with a background. Excellent structure soft spicy finish. $22 and texture. 3-5 $23 Morambro Creek Padthaway Shiraz 2012 HHHH A bigger style with plenty of upfront red/dark plum fruit. Oak sitting in the background. Savoury secondary characters developing. 3-5 $31.95 GMH by Geoff Hardy South Australia Shiraz 2012 HHHH Brooding tarry/black fruit bouquet and a monster of a palate, for the moment, with the sweet fruit seamlessly blended with the oak. 5+ $20 Majella Coonawarra Shiraz 2012 HHHH Soft approachable commercial Kopparossa Estate style with peppery plum nose Coonawarra Shiraz and good integration of spicy 2012 HHHH1/2 sweet fruit and vanillin oak \"A tight, long, keeper,\" said flavours. 3-5 $30 one judge. With its dark plum/ bitumen fruit characters, spicy vanillin oak and monumental smooth tannins with a satin finish. 5+ $29.50 Katnook Estate Prodigy Coonawarra Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Oak dominated aromas showing cedary/cigar box characters. Soft palate, rich with big intense multi-layered flavours and showing incredible length. 5+ $100 Random Shot by Farmer's Leap Padthaway Shiraz 2013 HHHH Bowen Estate Coonawarra Lean and elegant wine with Shiraz 2012 HHHH plenty of good sweet fruit and Big, warming style with some an abundance of oak sitting attractive spicy varietal fruit, tight on top and wrapped in firm oak and silky smooth mouth- tannins. 5+ $16 coating tannins. 3-5 $32 Roy The Cattleman Coonawarra Shiraz 2008 HHHH Very ripe and very sweet and brimming over with tar, fig and licorice-like characters. A huge wine, bordering on the porty. 3-5 $27.5084 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

regional tastingZema Estate FamilySelection CoonawarraShiraz 2008 HHHHA very smart shiraz with tightdark fruit showing hints ofplum pudding and minglingwith cedary oak and someinteresting earthiness. $45.95Jip Jip Rocks PadthawayShiraz 2013 HHH1/2A big rich wine showing anabundance of oak but also hasa good varietal fruit focus withsome alcohol warmth. $19.95Katnook EstateCoonawarra Shiraz Olivia Coonawarra2012 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2012 HHHIntense ripe plum varietal fruit Subtle spicy aromas and awith sweet and spicy oak and lovely rich earthy palate. Goodsome tannins that need time to commercial style. 3-5 $19calm down. 3-5 $40 Penley Estate HylandBarristers Block The Bully Coonawarra ShirazWrattonbully Shiraz 2012 HHH2010 HHH1/2 Intense spiciness on the nose,A leaner style that's ageing soft in the mouth with goodwell and has savoury olive-like varietal intensity and firmaromas with a peppery palate tannins. 3-5 $19.99and soft tannins. 3-5 $35 DiGiorgio Family WinesThe Roy Kidman Wine Co Lucindale Shiraz 2012 HHHBar Over Box Coonawarra Very commercial shiraz, simpleShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 sweet spicy red fruit, someAn intense rich integration and iodine characters and firmconcentration of dark caramelized tannins. 3-5 $20fruit and sweet spicy oak withleathery notes. $16.50 Farmer's Leap Padthaway Shiraz 2012 HHHMt Monster Limestone Some leafiness on the pepperyCoast Shiraz 2013 HHH nose and a big tannic palateRich brooding crimson shiraz with subtle sweet fruit flavours.with sweet fruit, savourylicorice characters and a dash 3-5 $23of pepper. $15.95 Terramore For The Love of Wine Coonawarra ShirazKatnook Estate Founder's 2012 HHHBlock Coonawarra Shiraz A powerful wine but needs2013 HHH time - tight and unforgivingA lean elegant commercial at this stage. Good fruitstyle with peppery varietal fruit, concentration. 3-5 $25ripe tannins and crisp acidity. Farmer's Leap The Brave 3-5 $20 Padthaway Shiraz 2012 HHHPicarus Wrattonbully Tight and bright with big berryShiraz 2013 HHH bouquet. Soft and chocolaty inYoung, bright and juicy style the mouth with firm tannins.with some drying tannins. Gooddrinking now. 3-5 $24.99 3-5 $40 Kopparossa Estate Vintage Reserve Coonawarra Shiraz 2008 HHH A mature wine with an earthy and slightly spirity nose and a big aged chocolaty palate. $80 November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 85

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHUNTER VALLEYNOTHING TO SNEEZE AT BACK-TO-BACK AWARDS BURGER MASTERSPEPPERS CONVENT Hunter Valley, CHATEAU ELAN at The Vintage Hunter ANYONE who loves gourmet hamburgerswhich offers some of the most luxurious Valley, won the prestigious “Best Luxury will have to add Tuk Tuk to their list ofaccommodation in the region, has opened a Accommodation” award for the second places to visit in the Hunter. Situated atsecond restaurant on its estate - Eighty Eight. consecutive year at the 2014 Hunter the Tempus Two complex, Tuk Tuk recentlyTogether with its sister restaurant, Roberts and Central Coast Tourism Awards. The celebrated its first birthday and hasCirca 1876, Eighty Eight is headed up by facility boasts a spa with 17 treatment become a firm favourite with locals, with itsexecutive chef George Francisco, who says rooms, a hair and beauty salon, 20 luxury innovative range of burgers, skewers andthe eatery’s focus is on sustainable, ethically spa suites as part of the spa complex, hot dogs, all cooked to order. Foundedsourced and grown produce. “All items on private lifestyle villas and six meeting by Peter Westfield, a well-travelled chef,this menu are ethically sourced,” American- and event spaces. The villas offer three and former builder Mark Clews, who hadborn Francisco says. “They are organically different room styles; 40 spa king rooms been putting together hamburger recipesgrown on the property, gathered or acquired with open-plan bedroom and living space for a number of years. The duo say theylocally or sustainably farmed. The ingredients plus en-suite bathroom; 40 one-bedroom aim to create burgers with a differencehave been nurtured by nature, prepared spa villas with separate bedroom, dining and their menu includes a Port Wine andwith respect and cooked with love.” There area and kitchen for all catering needs; Stilton Burger with tomato, baby cosis a strong focus on catering for diners, with and two-bedroom villas for groups of lettuce, Stilton cheese and cornichons,dietary requirements, including allergies and friends or family. All rooms have balconies topped with port wine glaze, as wellintolerances. “You can eat vegan, raw and or terraces overlooking the fairways of as a Chicken Caesar Salad Burger, adairy-free - gluten-free, no problem,” says the Greg Norman-designed 18-hole The Chilli Pork Burger, a Field Mushroomthe chef. The restaurant, which opened in Vintage championship golf course. “It is Burger and Falafel Burger. The hot dogJuly, is also being used for private functions, a great honour to receive these awards range includes the Straight up Dog, theincluding weddings and corporate events and and be recognised by your peers and American Chilli Dog, a Chicago Dog andEdwin Rosenkranz, formerly of the Golden professional industry colleagues,” said the Sauerkraut Dog. The restaurant isDoor health resort, will be in the kitchen. general manager Joe Spagnolo. “With small and simple with a post-industrialOwners Matt and Karlie Cowley say Eighty four years since opening, our team is now feel and seating for around 20 peopleEight offers “a relaxed setting and a nurturing, even stronger in setting our high standards inside and 40 on the terrace. Tuk Tuk is atcomfort-foods menu.” Peppers Convent was in customer service and recognition.” the Tempus Two Complex, corner Brokebuilt in 1909 as home to the Brigidine Order Chateau Elan at The Vintage, Vintage and McDonalds roads, Pokolbin; phoneof nuns, it was transported to Pokolbin in Drive, Rothbury; phone (02) 4998 2500. (02) 4998 6980. It is open seven days a1990, and extensively restored in 2014. The www.chateauelan.com.au. week from 10am-6pm.property earned a nomination in the 2014World Luxury Hotel Awards. Eighty Eight isat Peppers Convent, 88 Halls Rd, Pokolbinand is open daily for breakfast and lunch,and for dinner on Friday-Saturday, as wellas serving high teas; phone 1300 987 600.www.peppers.com.au/convent.86 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

travelbriefsCHECK THESE OUT DRAMATIC TASTING ROOMTHE HUNTER is one of those rare LEOGATE ESTATE is one of the mostwine regions where there is always impressive new facilities in the Huntersomewhere new to visit, eat and drink. Valley - a dramatically beautiful tastingAmong the relative newcomers worth room with its own high-end restaurantchecking out is the new cellar door at and conference facilities overlooking theThomas Allen Wines, which overlooks Brokenback Vineyard.the Moon Mountain Vineyard. Thereis a small range here and dramatic Leogate offers semillons, chardonnays,views. The relaxed and casual Two Fat verdelhos and shiraz made by former BriarBlokes’ Gourmet Kitchen and Euro Deli Ridge winemaker Mark Woods, alongsideCafe is the new eatery at the de Iuliis the Villa du Pays restaurant.cellar door, specialising in prosciuttoand salamis from Italian butchers and The classy cellar door, one of the fewa range of Kransky sausages from around with chandeliers, features firesideMentges’ butchery in Taree. The Deck tastings in winter and al fresco tastingsCafe, meanwhile, is a new addition at overlooking the ranges in summer.Gartelmann winery. Open seven days, itserves breakfast and lunch with a casual The lunch menu has choices like amenu complemented by Gartelmann charcuterie plate, steak and frites, anWines and Piazza D’Oro coffee. It is Australian Black Angus burger andsituated on the deck over the winery desserts, including a slow-baked lemondam in forest bushland. Adina Vineyard and lime tart.and Olive Grove at Lovedale has a newcellar door that is also home to a new Things move up a gear in the eveningincarnation of Emerson’s Restaurant, when two courses cost $69, threeoperated by popular local chef Emerson courses $85 and six- and nine-courseRodriguez. Dishes are served in small degustation menus are also available withand large portions here. Adina is also matching Leogate wines. Think startershome to four-star self-catering vineyard like Bangalow pork belly with scallops,accommodation and the Hunter Valley wasabi pea mousseline, nashi, cauliflowerReflections Day Spa. and white chocolate emulsion, or forest mushroom and snails with porcini soil and truffle foam. Mains may include Northern Highlands venison with wattleseed, nettles, purple conga, black garlic, turnips, ryeberries and liquorice jus, or a choice of dry-aged Black Angus beef cuts. Winery owners Bill and Vicki Widin supply the export quality Black Angus beef direct from their herd in northern New South Wales and have their own dry-ageing room on site. The cellar door is open 10am-5pm seven days. Villa du Pays is open for lunch Friday to Monday, noon-3pm, and dinner Thursday to Saturday and Monday from 6pm. Leogate Estate, 1693 Broke Rd, Pokolbin; phone (02) 4998 7499. www.leogate.com.au. Left: Selection of cuisines served at Leogate Estate. Opposite page Above: Chateau Elan spa and grounds. Below: New interior of Peppers Convent. November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 87

94 TASTED63 AWARDEDH UN T E R V A LLEYAn excellent tasting with some of the top Hunter Semillonwineries showing their mettle. Not surprisingly semillon 2014 & 2013shone from Australia’s most awarded semillon region,with great back up from elegant mid-weight finely 18 TASTEDstructured chardonnay and shiraz wines. For the future,tempranillo is one to watch out for! 13 AWARDEDSPARKLING Gartelmann Jessica A very strong class with Allandale Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Verdelho consistent quality, as to be Semillon 2013 HHHH1/21 TASTED 2014 HHH1/2 expected from this premium An excellent, very well made1 AWARDED A good powerful varietal with semillon region. \"These seem wine with the potential to a ripe nose that smells of fruit to show a move to more skin become a great wine. HasA good example of a drinkable salad with similar characters contact and lees complexity solid lemon fruit charactersmid-weight savoury sparkling red. echoed on the palate. $20 compared to the traditional with a fine minerally line and Bimbagen Hunter Valley leaner styles of the past and supported by crisp acid spine.Midnight's Promise Vermentino 2014 HHH will be even better with food.\"Guilty Pleasure Hunter Lifted quince-like aromas with 5+ $19Valley Sparkling Red an attractive stonefruit palate. Pokolbin Estate Phil Mistletoe Home Vineyard2009 HHH1/2 Good drink, true to style. $24 Swannell Hunter Valley Hunter Valley SemillonNice cassis/blackberry bouquet Two Rivers Hidden Hive Semillon 2014 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHHand ripe plum palate with Hunter Valley Verdelho Lovely nose reminiscent A minerally style sitting atfine tannins and a touch of 2013 HHH of lemon sherbet which is the green apple end of thesweetness. $28 A simple sweet, well-made followed by a long, fine, off spectrum. Has a very long life wine - light bodied with good dry palate with a slightly oily ahead of it indeed according toOther White varietal characteristics. $16 texture and good line of acidity. the judges. $22Varietals & Topper's Mountain New Has great future potential.Blends England Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH 5+ $2513 TASTED Attractive passionfruit6 AWARDED characters on the nose. Crisp Two Rivers Stones Throw Allandale Old Vines palate with upfront fruit. Good Hunter Valley Semillon Hunter Valley SemillonA mixed group of wines with acidity. $30 2013 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHHsome good results for traminer Topper's Mountain A crisp greener style - quiteand verdelho. \"Traminer from Bricolage Blanc New simple and needing more timethe Hunter, picked early, England White Blend to settle but has the potentialperforms well, if not better, 2013 HHH to become a great agedthan some fruit from the cooler An interesting complex semillon. $25regions,\" said one judge. combination of lychees and stonefruit with hints of A lovely crisp clean semillon;Cassegrain Edition ginger. $35 sound and well balanced withNoir Hastings River good varietal fruit and lovelyGewurztraminer acidity to balance. Drinking well2013 HHHH now or has excellent cellaringIntense sweet floral fragrances - potential. 5+ $16\"blatantly varietal,\" accordingto one judge. Nicely balanceddrier style palate. Good drinkingnow. $2588 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

regional tasting Mistletoe Silvereye Hunter Valley Semillon 2013 HHH A sweeter wine made more in a dessert style with an intense concentration of apple juice-like fruit characters. $20 Semillon 2012 & Spring Mountain Hunter Older Valley Semillon 2012 HHHH1/2 11 TASTED Lifted, fresh, grassy and 9 AWARDED herbaceous bouquet with a classy, mouth-watering palate An excellent class. \"A beautiful filled with generous youthful tight, linear, group of wines with lemon zest flavours showing a the best vintages here showing nice savoury touch. $18.95 the best wines,\" said one judge. Ernest Hill Cyril Hunter Pokolbin Estate Ken Bray Valley Semillon 2013 HHHH Hunter Valley Semillon Almost green pea-like 2011 HHHH1/2 characters on the nose with a A restrained youth that needs long strong and well-balanced lots more time in the cellar palate with slightly forward fruit - up to 10 years according to characters. $25 one judge. Honeyed nose and nicely concentrated flavours with a good acid spine. $25Gartelmann Benjamin James Estate The Estate Drayton's Family WinesHunter Valley Semillon Hunter Valley Semillon Susanne Hunter Valley2014 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 Semillon 2010 HHHH1/2A big bold semillon with plenty Good off-dry drinking style Lovely touches of fresh lemonof length. Tight green apple with bright sherbety nose tart aromas - nose still quitenose and similar characters on and slightly oily texture to the closed. Palate is young, lean,the palate with its fresh acid palate. Good drinking now. tight and crisp with good lengthbackbone. $25 of lemon pith-like varietal fruitMistletoe Reserve 3-5 $16 flavours. $45Hunter Valley Semillon2013 HHHH Midnight's Promise Pokolbin Estate PhilSmells of green apples with Unwooded Hunter Valley Swannell Hunter Valleya fuller style palate loaded Semillon 2011 HHHHwith powerful citrus/stonefruit Rich, spicy bouquet with slightlyflavours. Needs time to settle honeyed characters. Big and softbut has plenty of potential. $25 in the mouth with a powerful hit of varietal fruit flavours. $25 Semillon 2013 HHH1/2 Drayton's Family Wines A big youthful wine with Vineyard Reserve intense grassy/floral fragrances James Estate Reserve Pokolbin Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Semillon Semillon 2010 HHH1/2 and a warming, upfront fruit, 2009 HHHHH A mere baby - still very young palate. 3-5 $18 with, according to one judge, A fabulous classic ageing up to 15 years ahead of it yet. Hunter semillon that is still Lovely long finish. $45 Spring Mountain very young, crisp and lively Hunter Valley Semillon with lovely freshness of lemon 2013 HHH1/2 curd-like characters. Could go Elegant and grassy on the nose another 10 years according to RidgeView Generations with hints of melon and lovely Reserve Hunter Valley tangy freshness to the big rich one judge. 5+ $25 Semillon 2009 HHH1/2 palate. $18.95 Pokolbin Estate Phil Minerally aromatics with some Swannell Hunter Valley toasty honeyed age developing. RidgeView Generations Semillon 2009 HHHHH Nicely aged palate with lots Reserve Hunter Valley A very good, sound Hunter more life left. 3-5 $35 Semillon 2013 HHH1/2 semillon with delightful pale A sound leaner zesty style green hues. Still amazingly Allandale Winemaker's of semillon with flinty-like youthful for a five-year old with Reserve Hunter Valley fragrances and a long and green apple-like fruit characters Semillon 2010 HHH drying citrussy palate. $35 and lively acidity to balance it A richer fuller style with all. 5+ $28 lemon curd-like characters and age adding complexity. 3-5 $50 November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 89

HUNTER VALLEYChardonnay Drayton's Family Wines Two Rivers Reserve RidgeView Impressions Hunter Valley Chardonnay Hunter Valley Chardonnay Hunter Valley Chardonnay17 TASTED 2012 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH 2011 HHH1/212 AWARDED A youthful and quite savoury A complexity of smoky bacon- A rich classic with nice style of chardonnay with like savoury aromas with a ripe minerally line, toasty/nutty oak,The judges commented on the charred and smoky oak aromas floral fruit palate that tends to fresh varietal fruit and a longconsistency of these well-made and a leesy minerally palate be dominated by the vanillin warming finish. $30wines with their restrained, exhibiting a good refreshing oak. $24 Ernest Hill Over The Hillrefined oak and mid-weight line of acidity. $20 Hunter Valley Chardonnaystyles showing texture. 2014 HHH Upfront stonefruit aromas with nutty notes. Straightforward stonefruit/tropical palate. 5+ $20 Mistletoe Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2013 HHH A creamy fruit nose and a simple uncomplicated tropical fruit/oak palate. 5+ $22 Spring Mountain Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2012 HHH Big rich fruity style with nutty spicy nose and unusual mango/ nougat-like flavours. $18.95Ernest Hill Chicken Shed James Estate The Estate Gartelmann Sarah Drayton's Family WinesHunter Valley Chardonnay Hunter Valley Chardonnay Elizabeth Hunter Valley Vineyard Reserve2013 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH Chardonnay 2012 HHHH Pokolbin Hunter ValleyA tight uncomplicated A restrained, savoury and Well-made wine with lots of Chardonnay 2012 HHHchardonnay with a lovely youthful style - good food sweet vanillin oak characters Closed, tight and lean andcombination of oak and stonefruit wine. Has tight pithy fruit, on the nose which are echoed smelling of black olives with aaromas. Simple but seamlessly complimented by creamy lees on the balanced, youthful and very good savoury palate. $30balanced oak/fruit palate has a and some funky notes. $16 complex palate. $30long drying finish. $25 Spring Mountain Hunter Rosé Valley Chardonnayjudges 2013 HHHH 3 TASTED Starting to develop nicely. 2 AWARDED Lovely complexity of lifted creamy oak aromas and A small class but two very appealing peach/melon flavours good examples of what can with a tangy length. $18.95 be achieved. Mistletoe Reserve Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 Light stonefruit bouquet with upfront oak. Lean style of palate with subtle oak and good level of acidity. 3-5 $32Peter Hall Stephen Knight Mark RichardsonWinemaker for 20 years’ experience in the wine and Red winemakerMcGuigan Simeon hospitality industries ranging from for Tyrrell’s wines.Wines. 24 years’ hands-on involvement in wineries, Previously worked atwinemaking experience as a state sales manager, Allandale wines in theexperience with managing wine retail stores, and setting Hunter and Domainefour years as a up and running restaurants. He is at Chandon in the Yarra.Hunter Valley wine present a freelance wine consultant, Has also vintaged inshow judge. wine educator, writer and presenter Chianti, Tuscany. both in Australia and overseas.90 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

regional tasting Shiraz 12 TASTED 10 AWARDEDJames Estate The Estate James Estate The Estate An excellent class with the Midnight's PromiseHunter Valley Rosé Hunter Valley Cabernet 2011s the pick of the bunch, Hunter Valley Shiraz2013 HHHH Sauvignon 2011 HHHH contrary to southern Australian 2013 HHHH1/2A well-balanced drier style with Dense and inky on the nose; regions. A very consistent group Vibrant purple red colour.an abundance of strawberry traces of berries and black with strong mid-weight savoury, Lovely big lift of candied fruitfruit, bright spices and some olives. Not overly complex rather than sweet, red fruits fragrances underscored byherbal-like characters. Very palate; nice berry fruit and with oak underpinning it all. bacon-like oak nuances. Darkmoreish. $16 medium tannins. $16 chocolaty characters dominate Ridge View Impressions the big tannic palate. $22 Hunter Valley Shiraz 2013 HHHHH A savoury old fashioned style - be great with food. Tight closed aromas but loads of intense cherry-like flavours with savoury elements and good acid. \"Has another 10 years yet,\" said two judges. $30Gartelmann Veronica Topper's Mountain Wild James Estate The Estate James Estate ReserveHunter Valley Rosé Ferment Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz2014 HHH Tempranillo 2010 HHHH 2011 HHHHH 2011 HHHH1/2A sweeter style with boiled Savoury and spicy on the Dense inky purple wine with a A solid red with an inky cassislolly-like elements but has the nose with eucalypt nuances powerful charry oak nose and bouquet edged with savouryacid to balance it. $20 and a medium weight berry solid rich palate offering a huge characters. Big rich mouthfilling palate soft and balanced. Good mouthful of flavour. Still very tarry blackberry flavours areOther Red drinking. $32 young and needs plenty more seamlessly balanced by softVarietals & Ernest Hill Reserve time in the cellar to reach its acidity. $23Blends Andrew Watson Hunter potential. $16 Valley Tempranillo RidgeView Impressions16 TASTED 2013 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley Shiraz7 AWARDED Dense purple wine with Cherry 2010 HHHHH Ripe-like aromas and more of A real keeper made in aThe judges were generally a savoury palate. \"Give it 4-6 more savoury style with adisappointed with this flight. years,\" said one judge. $30 tight cassis nose showing aThe tempranillos were the stars James Estate The Estate slightly peppery touch. The bighere showing great potential for Hunter Valley Petit Verdot powerful palate has a hugethe region. There were a few 2012 HHH1/2 crunchy tannic structure.others that also performed well. Chocolaty nose; traces of berries and slight floral touches. 5+ $30Bimbagen Hunter Valley A tight solid red palate withShiraz Viognier 2013 HHHH firm, slightly green, tannins. $16Spicy berry fruit somewhat Drayton's Familydominated by apricot Vineyards Vineyardcharacters from the viognier. A Reserve Pokolbingood drink - well balanced with Hunter Valley Cabernetfirm acid backbone. $29 Sauvignon 2013 HHH Closed, tight and lean andBelebula Hunter Valley smelling of black olives withTempranillo 2010 HHHH a very good savoury style ofDark brooding aromas of palate. $30plums and berries leading to afull-bodied palate loaded withsolid fruit and finely integratedtannins. $28 November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 91

HUNTER VALLEY Sweet White & Fortified 3 TASTED 3 AWARDED A small group for the sweet toothed! Drayton's Family Wines Heritage Vines Hunter Valley Tawny 1978 HHHH A very good tawny with a great aged rancio nose - smells of figs and raisins. More of the fig characters on the chocolaty palate. $60 Mistletoe Petite Muscat Hunter Valley Fortified 2011 HHH1/2 A sound light fortified with a spicy spirit lift and a lovely mouthful of unctuous floral and raisin flavours. $18James Estate Reserve Ernest Hill Shareholders Ernest Hill Reserve James Estate Little SweetHunter Valley Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz William Henry Hunter One Hunter Valley Sweet2009 HHHH1/2 2013 HHHH Valley Shiraz 2013 HHHH White 2013 HHHA solid red purple shiraz with A traditional Hunter shiraz with Vibrant up-front mulberry A clean balanced wine withtarry cola-like aromas. Palate savoury/meaty fragrances and aromas with savoury elements. plenty of zip and lovely muscat-is youthful and tight with tons raspberry fruit peeking through Big youthful palate with like aromas and flavours. $16of good oak and soft tannins. and similar palate with tight mouthfilling jubey fruit flavours.Needs lots of time - probably tannins. $28 \"Needs 10 years.\" $50up to 10 years! $23 Allandale Matthew Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 HHH A savoury style - long, complex and youthful with plenty of simple berry fruit characters. 5+ $30 Drayton's Family Vineyards William Hunter Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH A lean chocolaty shiraz with eucalypt touches and a soft tannic spine. $45 star ratings Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 144. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au92 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

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travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNORTH EAST VICTORIAKILNHOUSE ESCAPES also offer the opportunity to participate in ALL SAINTS CELEBRATES Italian cooking classes with leading chefA FORMER tobacco farm near Porepunkah, Patrizia Simone, of local restaurant icon FOURTH-GENERATION wine industryat the base of Mount Buffalo, outside Simone’s of Bright. The Kilns, Cavedons figures Eliza, Angela and Nicholas BrownBright, is home to three unique properties Lane, Porepunkah; phone 0400 733 170. have spent 2014 commemorating 150 years- and The Kilns homesteads overlook www.kilnhouse.com.au. of All Saints Estate, releasing a new rangeseveral hectares of grape vines and are of Antique Label wines to celebrate thepart of a working cattle farm. In 2006, BUSH SETTING milestone. Established in 1864, All Saintsthe tobacco kilns were converted into Estate is one of Australia’s first wineries.Cavedon’s Kilnhouse, which offers self- LOOKING for somewhere comfortable Original Scottish owners George Sutherlandcontained accommodation featuring three and inexpensive from which to explore the Smith and John Banks settled in thebedrooms, including a master bedroom wineries of north-east Victoria? Mcananly Wahgunyah area on the banks of the Murraywith king-size bed, en suite and spa; that Homestead is an environmentally friendly River where they took up 40ha and begancan accommodate six people. Wood fires Beechworth homestead in a bush setting growing vines. The All Saints Estate castleand heated floors make this an attractive that might fit the bill. The house has been was soon built over the original buildingsproposition in winter. Three years later a two- built using timbers milled from the property that housed the maturing wine and in 1873bedroom lodge, Chinaman’s Kilnhouse, was combined with recycled materials and All Saints Estate won the first gold medalbuilt in a neighbouring paddock and that is billed as being ideal for groups or for Australian winemaking at the Londonwas followed by the Sorting Shed. All are couples. The property, formerly Lingarry International Exhibition. It is now undermodern looking, architect-designed homes. Homestead, uses only solar power, only the custodianship of the fourth-generationCompleted in 2012, The Sorting Shed is tank water and sources locally grown or Brown family, which has owned the winerydesigned for adults only. It provides three produced goods where possible for its since 1992. Current CEO Eliza Brown is thelarge bedrooms, two bathrooms, one en breakfast bags. eldest of the three children who inheritedsuite with shower and one with a shower and the winery from their father, Peter R. Brown,a spa bath. The main bedroom looks over Mcananly Homestead is located just one of the original Brown Brothers at Milawa,a grove of mature deciduous trees, planted a five-minute drive from the historic who passed away in 2005. All Saints Estate’smany years ago, when there was a previous township of Beechworth - home to the lovely vineyard setting makes it a magnet forfarmhouse in this location. There is a sauna acclaimed Provenance restaurant - has wine and food lovers, with one-hat restaurantdownstairs. The Sorting Shed also features four bedrooms and sleeps up to 10 people. Terrace run by head chef Simon Arkless, itslarge slim televisions and DVD players, Guests can decide which configuration own Indigo Cheese Company and the historicwireless internet, an iPod dock and SONOS suits them best. All rooms open out on to All Saints Estate cellars, where 100-year-oldsound system. The property is 65km from their own balcony and a central courtyard fortifieds are stored. The Terrace is openMount Hotham and 75km from Falls Creek is the location for an eight-person spa for lunch Wednesday-Sunday, noon-3pm- making it a possible base for ski lovers bath. The homestead is at 53 McAnanly and for degustation dinners on Saturdayas well as vinophiles - and the kilnhouses Rd, Beechworth; phone 0414 920 193. nights. All Saints, 315 All Saints Rd, www.mcananly.com.au. Wahgunyah; phone (02) 6035 2222. www.allsaintswine.com.au.94 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

travelbriefsCELEBRATE IN LUXURY play chess or cards, or sit by the open-fire of the family have been involved since with maybe a glass of Symphonia petit the Stanton family, originally from SuffolkCASA LUNA, one of Victoria’s most manseng or saperavi. in England, worked hard to establish asuccessful country getaways, is celebrating vineyard despite phylloxera, droughtits 10th birthday. The King Suites have private balconies and the Depression. Norman Killeen and facilities include large flat-screen married Jack Stanton’s daughter, Joan, With Milawa and the King Valley offering a TV/DVD combos and iPod docks. Casa and in 1954 she gave birth to sixth-treasure trove of gourmet discoveries, this Luna is a member of Slow Food, the generation winemaker Chris Killeen. Inlittle gem at Myrrhee is a perfect base for movement founded in Italy as an antidote 1968 the business name was changed toexploration. Deep in the country, it features to the universal proliferation of fast food, Stanton and Killeen Wines, which beganaffordable, stylish luxury in two queen and and showcases seasonal local produce a new phase in the history of the winery.two king suites. such as cheeses from Milawa Cheese Seventh-generation Simon Killeen has Factory, Milawa free-range chicken and studied for a Bachelor of Wine Science With views over the Symphonia vineyards, game birds, King Valley pork and goat, at Charles Sturt University in Waggathis mini guesthouse is close to several salt bush lamb, walnuts, hazelnuts and Wagga and Natasha Killeen is studyingcellar doors. Host Gwenda Canty serves chestnuts from Porepunkah, cherries and a Master of Wine Business through thesumptuous five-course dinners with an stone fruits from Glenrowan, and apples University of Adelaide. The cellar doorItalian accent, or a lighter two-course option, from Wandiligong. Casa Luna is ideal for is 3km west of Rutherglen township onand the breakfasts of free-range eggs, couples looking to wind down with a glass the Murray Valley Highway - look outsmoked bacon, vine-ripened tomatoes of prosecco in front of an open fire. Suites for an old grape-picking wagon on theand homemade preserves are legendary. begin at $225-275 per couple, including corner of Jacks Rd. There are picnic breakfasts. Casa Luna, 1569 Boggy Creek facilities and plenty of shaded areas Alternatively, guests can dine al fresco in Rd, Myrrhee; phone (03) 5729 7650. to enjoy a glass or two of the family’sLa Piazza, the outdoor wood-fired kitchen, www.casaluna.com.au. wines. Stanton and Killeen, Jacks Rd,at a communal table. Rutherglen; phone (02) 6032 9457. HISTORIC CELLAR DOOR www.stantonandkilleenwines.com.au. When it comes to accommodation, guestscan choose between the King Suites in THE Stanton and Killeen winery is one of Above: Casa Luna exterior and baked eggs on a beda separate building, or the Queen Suites the historic cellar doors that it is almost of Nicoise ratatouille.located in a wing off the main building. de rigueur to visit for anyone spending time in Rutherglen. Seven generations Opposite page A modern lounge separates the two King Left: Chinaman Kilnhouse exterior.Suites, ensuring privacy, while the Queen Right: All Saints Estate.Suites are adjacent to the lounge/diningroom, where guests can browse the library, November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 95

84 TASTED68 AWARDEDNORTH EAST VICTORIAA very high strike rate from this fascinating region that Other White Scion Vineyard Fleurcan produce the world’s finest fortifieds on the flats, and Varietals & Rutherglen Orangemeanwhile, up in “them thar (sic) hills” of the nearby Blends Muscat 2013 HHHHAlpine Valleys and King Valley below, we can find some A very pleasant musky/roseexcellent dry table wines and sparkling gems. 13 TASTED petal bouquet and a very well- balanced palate that delivers soft 11 AWARDED musky orange-like flavours. $19Sparkling Gapsted Wines Tobacco A solid class of mixed varietal Dal Zotto King Valley Road King Valley wines with pinot gris/grigio a Arneis 2013 HHHH9 TASTED Prosecco NV HHHH feature. Also a great example An interesting savoury style7 AWARDED Fresh and zesty on the nose of an Aussie Rhone blend - be great with food. SlightA very solid class. \"All in place and brimming over with lemons shows what can be achieved marzipan-like nuances toand in style,\" said one judge. and sherbet. Lovely green in the region when appropriate the nose and quite a tangy\"These sit well climatically apple palate that's very light varieties are put together. stonefruit palate. $27and particularly the prosecco and refreshing. $16 Scion Vineyard Rutherglenwines that will do well against Brown Brothers Limited Auldstone Murtagh Bros Viognier 2013 HHH1/2the Italians!\" Release King Valley King Valley Pinot Gris Very varietal nose - all apricotBrown Brothers King Prosecco 2013 HHHH 2014 HHHH1/2 and passionfruit with a glycerol-Valley Pinot Noir Zesty sweet aromas with Bronze coloured wine with pink like texture to the palate andChardonnay Pinot fragrances of apples and touches and a musky pear-like flavours of apricots. $25Meunier NV HHHH1/2 sherbet and leading on to a bouquet. Oily textured palate Indigo Vineyards SecretVery complex and quite mature palate with a creamy mouthfeel with spiced pear and lemon Village Beechworthstyle smelling of green apples, and stonefruit flavours. $19.90 characters filling the mouth Viognier 2013 HHH1/2strawberries and brioche Dal Zotto Pucino King with flavour. Good example of a Fresh apricot aromas with awith rich, clean strawberry Valley Prosecco NV HHH1/2 gris style. $19 floral edge and an intense hitshortbread-like flavour profile A fruit filled, frothy and Rutherglen Estates of vibrant orange/apricot fruiton the crisp palate. $25 frivolous crowd-pleaser with Renaissance Rutherglen flavours on the palate. $35 a sherbety nose and lovely Viognier Marsanne John Gehrig King ValleyDal Zotto Pucino King smooth creamy palate. $20 Rousanne 2012 HHHH1/2 Riesling 2012 HHH1/2Valley Prosecco Morris of Rutherglen A promising complexity of Lime nose with nice floral2013 HHHH1/2 Rutherglen Sparkling aromas; spices, tropical fruits notes and a clean, crisp zestyFresh green apple bouquet with Shiraz Durif NV HHH1/2 and orange preserve. Gorgeous lemon palate. Well-balancedan attractive floral touch. Appley Brooding chocolaty plum palate with layers of stonefruit and maturing nicely. $22palate is light and delicate with aromas and a mature complex and citrus flavours. Obviouswhat one judge described as, masculine style of palate. \"A oak. Great quality. $32\"perfect poise\". \"Bring on the very good sparkling red.\" $20 Indigo Vineyards Alpinespring racing.\" $23 Gapsted Wines Limited Valleys Beechworth Release King Valley Pinot Grigio 2014 HHHH Prosecco NV HHH Attractive nose - smells of Some bottle age mixed pear drops. Long, mid-weight with cut apple and pear-like and slightly oily palate with characters on both nose and nice pear-like flavours with a palate. $23 peppery note. $2496 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

regional tastingRinger Reef Alpine Valleys James & Co Beechworth Auldstone Estate Grown Morris of RutherglenSauvignon Blanc 2014 HHH Sangiovese 2012 HHHHH Glenrowan Merlot GSM RutherglenFresh and bright with lively A cherry berry nose bordering 2011 HHH Grenache Shirazintensity of green citrus fruit on savoury and long well- A touch earthy on the red Mourvedre 2012 HHHand loads of acidity. $18 structured cherry palate with a currant nose with a great Gamey berry bouquet and soft gamey core, herbal esters and impact of fleshy cherry savoury mulberry palate withDal Zotto King Valley firm dark tannins. \"A wine that flavours. $27 nice use of oak. $27.95Pinot Grigio 2013 HHH ticks all the boxes,\" accordingPear drops on the nose with to one judge. $30 Other Red Caberneta nicely textured palate that is James & Co Beechworth Blends Sauvignonrich and soft in the mouth. $19 Sangiovese Rosé 2014 HHHH 6 TASTED 3 TASTEDBoynton's Feathertop A pretty wine smelling of 4 AWARDED 2 AWARDEDAlpine Valleys Savagnin cherries and rhubarb with Some nice elegant food wines2013 HHH a crisp palate and some here with what the judges A couple of wines showingA clean lemon/green apple nose well-balanced residual sugar. described as \"logical cabernet very good varietal character.and long lingering persistence Savoury on the finish. $18 blends”. \"Great value quaffing,\"of lime flavours. $25 Gapsted Wines Alpine concluded one judge. Morris of Rutherglen Valley King Valley Rutherglen Estates Red CMH Rutherglen CabernetChardonnay Saperavi 2010 HHHH Rutherglen Shiraz Durif Sauvignon 2012 HHHHH Smells of blackcurrants and 2013 HHHH Dense brooding liqueur/cassis5 TASTED bootpolish! The firm, high acid, Fragrant nose showing great aromas supported by some3 AWARDED palate delivers full fruit flavours balance of spiced plum and cedary oak. Great palate weight with a firm tannic spine. Years blueberry aromas. Big and soft with loads of blackcurrantA small but solid group of ahead of it. $27 in the mouth with nice spicy flavours, massive tannins andvarying wines. Dal Zotto King Valley spine. $15 tremendous length. $60 Barbera 2013 HHHMorris of Rutherglen Herbal characters to the Dal Zotto King Valley Morris of RutherglenFive Generations blueberry nose and spicy/ Sangiovese Cabernet Basket Press RutherglenThe Percheron savoury palate with quite a 2012 HHHH Cabernet SauvignonVictoria Chardonnay chunky acid finish. $25 \"Love this wine,\" said one 2012 HHH2013 HHH1/2 Indigo Vineyards Secret judge. It's full and round with Lean, clean and slightlyA well-made, slightly old Village Beechworth Pinot great vibrancy of sour cherry leathery with nice black fruitsfashioned, style with melon/ Noir 2013 HHH fruit; some blackcurrants and tannins one step ahead ofapple characters nicely framed A classic sour cherry style of coming through. $22 the fruit. $20by some very smart oak. $27.95 pinot. Toasty herbal notes to James & Co Beechworth the nose and a lean simple Sangiovese Cabernet ShirazIndigo Vineyards Alpine palate. $32 2013 HHHValleys Beechworth Ringer Reef Alpine Valleys A firm lean style with Morello 6 TASTEDChardonnay 2013 HHH1/2 Sangiovese 2012 HHH cherry aromas and a chalky 5 AWARDEDA crisp easy drinker with Dusty earthy aromas with berry palate. $22tight green nose and intense cherry notes and savoury fruit A small but strong group ofstonefruit palate. Will repay on the firm well structured vibrant and well-integratedwith some cellaring. $30 palate. $24 reds here. Morris of RutherglenGapsted Valley Selection Rutherglen Blue Imperial Baileys of GlenrowanKing Valley Chardonnay 2012 HHH Glenrowan Shiraz2013 HHH A classic style. Very pretty 2012 HHHH1/2Nice peach bouquet with floral colour, herbal/lavender nose A big wine with toasty notestouches. The palate is simple, and subtle and rewarding to the peppery blackberrysweet and fruit-driven. $18 palate. $24.95 bouquet. Palate is full and soft in the mouth and layered withOther Red long spicy varietal fruit flavoursVarietals with quite an acid finish. $2713 TASTED Baileys of Glenrowan8 AWARDED 1920's Block Glenrowan Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2The judges agreed that Masses of very ripe berrysangiovese is a variety well fruit aromas and a firm well-worth persevering within this balanced palate that's soft inregion. Other Mediterranean the mouth and tasting of spicesvarieties can also do well here. and plums. \"Text book stuff,\" thought one judge. $45 November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 97

NORTH EAST VICTORIABaileys of Glenrowan Morris of Rutherglen Morris of Rutherglen Morris of RutherglenOrganic Glenrowan Shiraz CMH Rutherglen Durif Cellar Reserve Grand Old Premium Rutherglen2013 HHHH 2007 HHHHH Rutherglen Liqueur Liqueur Muscat NV HHHHHA full-bodied inky dark style Amazing colour! Has tar and Muscat NV HHHHH \"Just beautiful,\" enthused onewith chocolaty fragrances licorice aromas and a huge Very deep and tarry on the judge. Has an impenetrableseamlessly layered with black palate with an explosion nose and a little syrupy. Palate dark chocolate cake of acherry aromas and big and soft of blackberry fruit flavours, shows an incredible intensity nose and silky soft palatein the mouth. $27 massive amount of tannins and and sweetness, some good showing \"impossible\" length, balancing acidity. \"A tour de oak influence, huge rancio and lovely freshness and lift.Indigo Vineyards Secret force!\" 5+ $60 amazing flavour length. $50 \"Gorgeous.\" $75Village Beechworth Shiraz Scion Vineyard Rutherglen Morris of Rutherglen Black2012 HHH1/2 Baileys of Glenrowan Grand Muscat NV HHHHH Label Rutherglen LiqueurClean commercial style with Glenrowan Petite Sirah An absolutely fabulous nose Muscat NV HHHH1/2black wine gum jubeyness on 2012 HHHH1/2 that shows both age and Nose is a gorgeous cascade ofthe nose and great chocolaty A dark brooding suggestion of freshness. The palate is rose petals, candied peel andbalance to the palate. $45 blackberry compote aromas bright, lively and lifted with spices. Vibrant palate. Soft and and an assertive but well- layers of complexity and rich in the mouth with a hugeMorris of Rutherglen balanced tannic palate with freshness and wrapped in belt of pot-pourri and ginger-likeRutherglen Shiraz lovely length of subtle bramble warming alcohol. $59 flavours. $19.952010 HHH1/2 fruit flavours. $27 Baileys of Glenrowan RareSoft sweet bramble-like fruit with Old Rutherglen Liqueur Auldstone Classicclassic dried herb savouriness Morris of Rutherglen Muscat NV HHHHH Glenrowan Liqueurlayered with dusty tannins. $20 Rutherglen Durif A rich, delicious power of Muscat NV HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 chocolate and caramel on the \"Crystal in the glass,\" was oneDurif A classic text book nose that's nose which is echoed on the judge's description. Beautiful all blueberries, tar and herbs. palate that shows hints of vibrant colour and lovely6 TASTED Great concentration of flavours citrus rind and has tremendous candied peel and rose-like5 AWARDED reminiscent of liqueur plums weight with a lovely long characters with a raisined lift. with plenty of acidity to support lingering finish. $75 Needs more time. $30Long considered a stalwart of it all. $26 Baileys of Glenrowan Rare Morris of Rutherglenthe region, durif offers great Old Liqueur Rutherglen Cellar One Classicflavour and vibrancy. \"The Baileys of Glenrowan Topaque NV HHHHH Liqueur Rutherglenvintages of this variety speak Glenrowan Durif Very dark, brooding and super Topaque NV HHHH1/2so well but differently,\" noted 2012 HHH1/2 sweet with a touch of old A long, luscious and deliciousone judge. \"Durif makes a A powerful concentration of wood, some fig-like characters, balance of malty, tea leaf,real wine!\" blackcurrant and chocolate malt, caramel and a dash of buttery, toffee and muscatel- characters with quite an spices. Excellent rancio. A like character with someAnderson Basket Press assertive tannin structure. $27 gorgeous seamlessly balanced subtle rancio elements in theRutherglen Durif product. $75 background. $352009 HHHHH Sweet White & Morris of Rutherglen OldVery tight restrained sweet red Fortified Premium Rare Rutherglencurrant/plum nose. Incredible Liqueur Tokay NV HHHHHintensity of flavour with 23 TASTED Deep and dark and smellingtremendous length. Very good of cold tea and toffee withbalanced and huge tannic grip. 23 AWARDED sensational depth and power ofYears of life ahead of it. $29 complex luscious flavours with An extraordinary, world-class, tremendous rancio characters. line-up of sensational and Has loads of life. $75 consistent wines. \"Apart from the amazing concentration of flavours there is the secondary experience of lingering after taste,\" said one judge. \"It is great to see such freshness of spirit.\"judges Dan Crane David Darlow Geoff Alexander Winemaker at All Saints Head winemaker at Winemaker for Brown Estate and St Leonard’s Feathertop Wines, Alpine Brothers wines. wineries. Has completed Valleys. Previously chief Previously had one vintages in the Hunter winemaker for Bullers vintage at Brokenwood Valley and Yarra Valley. wines. Has vintaged wines in the Hunter Spent four years in the extensively in Australian Valley. Judged at the London wine trade with wine regions plus France Rutherglen, Swan Hill, Oddbins wine merchants. and the US. Judge at the and Cool Climate Show Inland wine show and Flying at Murrumbateman. Doctor wine show Dubbo.98 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014

regional tastingMorris of Rutherglen Morris of Rutherglen Some of the finest wines of the world,Cellar Reserve Grand Aged Amber RutherglenRutherglen Liqueur Tokay Apera NV HHHH only a phone call away ...NV HHHH1/2 Beautiful amber hues with aBeautiful green hues, subtle green rim. Smells of caramels • BLEASDALE VINEYARDS • EARTHWORKSmalty caramel bouquet and and has a very intense, dry, • FREYCINET • HAY SHED HILLhuge sweetness on the palate nutty palate showing greatthat has an amazing intensity flavour length. $50 • HEATHCOTE WINERY • JOHN DUVAL WINESand length with nice oak Morris of Rutherglen • KANTA • KOOYONG • LANGMEIL WINERYinfluence. $50 Classic Rutherglen • mesh • O’LEARY WALKER • PITCHFORKMorris of Rutherglen Liqueur Tokay NV HHHHMia Pale Flor Rutherglen Butterscotch aromas with • PRIMO ESTATE • REDBANKApera NV HHHH slight hints of tropical nuance • RYMILL COONAWARRAHas crystal clear green hues and more of the butterscotchwith super clean nutty/almond and some toffee on the fresh • SEPPELTSFIELD • SOUTHaromas and is lovely and fresh, youthful palate. $75 • TARRAWARRA ESTATE • thousand candlesdry, crisp and vibrant in the Baileys of Glenrowan VPmouth. $19.95 140 Glenrowan Vintage • TIN SHED WINES • WEST CAPE HOWEMorris of Rutherglen Port 2012 HHHH • WIRRA WIRRA VINEYARDSClassic Rutherglen A very attractive tight andLiqueur Muscat NV HHHH zesty style that is loaded with • AGRICOLA ALLEGRINI • ALASIA • ANTINORIVibrant, fresh, balanced and a firm purity of sweet fruit, • ARGIANO • ATA RANGI • AUGUSTE CLAPEvery good with nice rose and nice dusty spice and good • BODEGA CASTANO • BODEGAS CATENA ZAPATAtoffee characters, a touch of level of spirit. $30 • BODEGAS MAURO • BODEGAS VALDEMARwood and the beginnings of Brown Brothers Patriciasome rancio. $22 Late Harvest Milawa • CANTINE PRA • CHATEAU de FUISSÉBaileys of Glenrowan Noble Riesling 2009 • J. L. CHAVE • CIEN Y PICO • CORTE GIARAFounders Series Classic (375ml) HHHHRutherglen Topaque The noise has a lovely intensity • DOMAINE du COMTE LIGER-BELAIRNV HHHH of melon and apricot aromas. • DOMAINE de la ROMANÉE CONTIA classic balance of cold The luscious sweet apricot • DOMAINE COCHE-DURY • DOMAINE DUGAT-PUYtea and rancio characters palate is balanced by crisp • DOMAINE DUJAC • DOMAINE FAIVELEYsupported by some good wood acidity. $36.70and layered with a nice level of Morris of Rutherglen • DOMAINE RENÉ ROSTAINGspirit. $30 Rutherglen Vintage Port • DOMAINE RAMONET • DOMAINE ROULOTBaileys of Glenrowan 2005 HHHH • DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE • DRY RIVERFounders Series Classic Rich, chocolaty and very sweet • E. GUIGAL • EGON MÜLLER • EMILIO LUSTAURutherglen Liqueur with a seamless integration • FROMM • GAJA • GEORGES DUBŒUFMuscat NV HHHH of lifted spirit and developingA clean well-constructed style some excellent complexity. $25 • GREYWACKE • HUGEL et FILSof liqueur muscat with some Chambers Rosewood • LA RIVA DEI FRATI • LAURONA • LIS NERISvery attractive rose and raisin Vineyard Old Vinecharacters and nice level of Rutherglen Liqueur • LOUIS BOUILLOT • MARC BREDIFrancio elements. $30 Muscat NV HHH • MOUNT NELSON WINES • ORNELLAIA • PALAJohn Gehrig North East Luscious and complex withVictoria Grand Tawny some nice rose petal-like • PALLISER ESTATE • PASCAL JOLIVETNV HHHH characters with slight gingery • PIAN DELLE VIGNE • CHAMPAGNE POL ROGERThe nose is dark, chocolaty and notes. $20leathery with a dash of spice. Scion Vineyard After Dark • POLI • PRUNOTTOVery sweet dried fruit-like Fortified 2013 HHH • SAINT CLAIR FAMILY ESTATE • SASSICAIAflavours, some silky tannins Clean, pleasant and very sweetand good rancio. $32 floral blueberry fruit-driven style • SEGHESIO - SONOMAMorris of Rutherglen with no discernable spirit. $29 • THE ROYAL TOKAJI WINE COMPANYCellar One Classic • TIEFENBRUNNER • TORRES • TWO PADDOCKSRutherglen Liqueur • VALDESPINO • VALLI • VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHEMuscat NV HHHHA pretty and quite elegant • VIÑA VENTISQUEROstyle with lovely primary rose • VINOPTIMA • WEINGUT BERNHARD OTTpetal-like characters. Plumpand super sweet in the mouth. New South Wales/ACT – 02 8344 8288Needs more age. $35 South Australia/Northern Territory – 08 8112 4210 Victoria/Tasmania – 03 9268 1750 Queensland – 07 3373 5766 Western Australia – 08 9333 4244 www.negociantsaustralia.com November/December 2014 W I N E S TAT E 99

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHAWKES BAYREPUTATION FOR QUALITY and chef Leyton Ashley offers hearty, healthy suite includes free wireless or broadband dishes that focus on local produce; think internet, work stations, kitchen facilities,FOR A WINERY that has been in existence dishes like coq au vin or a rack of veal. At an en-suite bathroom, airconditioningfor fewer than 20 years, the Peabody family’s lunch, expect dishes ranging from wild rabbit and LCD flat-screen TVs with over 50Craggy Range has built a formidable and pork terrine with brioche and pickles to Sky TV channels. Guests receive areputation for both quality and hospitality. a roasted pork rack for two, beetroot walnut complimentary newspaper each morning salad and smoked potato. At dinner, maybe and can request airport pick-up and drop- A member of the Family of Twelve, a group venison black pudding, quince and pickled off by contacting the property. Tim andof wine producers linked by a common love of onion; sous-vide duck breast, artichoke, liver Vicky Stephens have owned the Ballinagrape growing and wine production, Craggy parfait and cabbage; or Merino lamb loin and Motel for eight years and said: “BestRange is one of the leading lights in Hawke’s belly with carrot, persimmon and ginger. For Western supports our passion to meetBay with its acclaimed Terroir restaurant and those who wish to stay on site and participate our guests’ expectations for quality andits on-site vineyard cottages. Established in in a range of food and wine packages on offer, service. If guests are looking for more1997, Craggy Range is situated in the shadow the on-site cottages cost from $370-$420 than just an average hotel stay withoutof the spectacular Te Mata Peak and is based per night depending on the season. The the excess expense, then they are inon the single vineyard philosophy of wine Honeymoon Cottage is for couples, while the the right place. We offer a number ofmaking, Craggy Range was the first winery Cellar Masters and Vineyard Cottages cater room options and friendly service for ourto make single vineyard wines from multiple for up to four guests. guests at the doorstep of Hawke’s BayNew Zealand regions with grape varieties and its beautiful surrounding regions.”matched to place by winemaker Steve Smith. Craggy Range is at 253 Waimarama Rd, For details see www.bestwestern.co.nz/ Havelock North; phone. +64 6873 7126. www. napier/hotels/best-western-ballina-motel. The winery’s portfolio includes the iconic craggyrange.com.Prestige and Family collections, as well as SERVICE RECOGNISEDlimited editions reflecting the place and ANOTHER LINK IN THE CHAIN DELICIOSA WINE and Tapas Room inthe people. Selected for their soils and Havelock North picked up two awards atclimates, Craggy Range has estate-owned THE FAST expanding Best Western chain the 2014 Hawke’s Bay Hospitality Awards,vineyards in Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough has added its 15th New Zealand hotel, the including one for outstanding wine andand Marlborough. The spectacular cellar four-star plus Qualmark-rated Best Western beverage list.door looks out towards Te Mata Peak and Ballina Motel in Napier to its portfolio.offers tastings across the range, looking at Open six days a week (closed onhow the winemaking philosophy is reflected Centrally located in the southern Napier Sundays), this food and wine hot spotin the end product. Terroir is an award-winning suburb of Taradale, midway between offers a massive range of small grazingrestaurant, while the Craggy Range Vineyard Napier and Hastings CBDs and 10 plates in the Spanish style, ranging fromCottages offer self-contained boutique minutes from Hawke’s Bay airport, the chorizo to pheasant parfait, confit duckaccommodation. Ballina Motel offers guests 16 rooms with burrito bites and larger treats like sizzling a range of accommodation options from prawns in a Basque sauce, balsamic roasted Terroir is styled on a classic French bistro studios to two-bedroom apartments. Each mushrooms, seafood chowder (rather harder to share) and a mezze plate. There is also a selection of cheeses from around the world and a choice of dessert plates. The wine list has a good range by the glass and features local names like Clearview, Te Mata, Sacred Hill and Elephant Hill, along with a number of sherries, ports and other fortifieds and a good number of bottles from other parts of New Zealand. Deliciosa is at 21 Napier Rd, Havelock North; phone +64 6877 6031. www.deliciosa.co.nz. Open Monday-Tuesday from 4pm and Wednesday-Saturday 11am-late.100 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2014