Wine & Spirit Insider May June 2018

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDMay/June 2018 Issue 158 THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411In this issue...New Releases &Best Value Buys Under $20

248 TASTED203 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESAlways a pleasure! We are seeing very strong results from the Byrne Single X By Xabregas Figexcellent 2015 and 2016 vintages for the reds and crisp whites Vineyard South Tree Great Southernfrom the 2017 vintage. Everyone wins a prize! Best examples Australia Riesling Riesling 2017 HHHHcame from the grenache, riesling and $30+ shiraz class. 2016 HHHHH Nose is fresh, lifted, Light citrussy bouquet zesty and floral and has with Hessian hints a sweet rounded lime developing. Lightweight palate with hints of palate has delicate fruit rosehips and wrapped in flavours and is smooth crisp acidity. $40 and rounded in the mouth showing a lovely lemon sherbet finish. $18SPARKLING Barristers Block Poetic Justice3 TASTED Legally Blonde Adelaide Hills3 AWARDED Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2017 HHH1/2Small class but with Very obvious sauvignonsome excellent blanc aromas; allexamples. “Good fresh gooseberry andand vibrant styles passionfruit which arefrom the Adelaide Hills echoed on a nicelyoffering great value balanced palate. $25for money,” noted onejudge. RIESLINGChateau Yaldara 7 TASTEDAdelaide Hills 7 AWARDEDSparkling Pinot NoirChardonnay Barristers Block “This shows the Hemera Estate Greenock EstateNV HHHH1/2 Poetic Justice strength of the South Single Vineyard Wines Skyline EdenSweet and toasty on Adelaide Hills Australian rieslings Barossa Valley Valley Rieslingthe nose with nutty Sparkling Blush from premium regions,” Riesling 2017 HHHnuances. Lean and Pinot Noir enthused one judge. 2017 HHHH1/2 A lighter leaner stylesimple in the mouth 2017 HHHH1/2 “Great rose petal, floral, Musky lime nose with lime/lemon-likewith vibrant citrus Delicate aromas of lemon and lime varietal with interesting funky characters and crispflavours nicely balanced Turkish Delight and characters showing characters. Big hit of acid to balance theby the bready/yeasty strawberries with slight here.” musky sweet fruit sweetness. $25characters. $25 smokiness and a dry, flavours on the powerful Tomich Wines subtley complex, red Barristers Block and lengthy palate that Woodside Vineyard fruit palate with creamy Adelaide Hills is underscored by tangy Adelaide Hills mousse and a citric acid Riesling acidity. $25 Riesling 2017 HHH finish. $25 2017 HHHHH Reillys Barking Mad Subdued nose and a lean Excellent freshness of Clare Valley Riesling austere bergamot/lime lifted floral/rose bud 2017 HHHH palate with tight line of aromas with a hint of A subtle floral/rose petal greenish acidity. $25 toastiness. The crisp bouquet leads onto a tightly structured palate fresh and flowery lemon/ has an elegance of lime flavour profile and lemon/lime flavours with has a lovely crisp line of pretty floral touches. acidity. $20 5+ $28120 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingPINOT GRIS/ Tomich Wines Tomich Wines Delta Hatter’s Tomich WinesGRIGIO Tomich Hill Adelaide Gallery Collection Hill Marlborough Cloudbreak Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio Rhyme & Reason Sauvignon Blanc Hills Sauvignon12 TASTED 2017 HHHH Adelaide Hills Pinot 2016 HHHH Blanc 2017 HHH10 AWARDED Good varietal Grigio 2017 HHH Nice pungency to the Nettley green melonThere were few aromas with hints of Light and delicate minty/snow pea nose. bouquet and a tight, welldistinctions between the marmalade and lovely fragrances with some Attractive lemon/lime presented, green fruittwo styles. “The wines pear/apple flavour lees complexity and flavours laced with palate. $22reflect the cooler 2017 combination with some an elegant varietal fruit tropical fruits. Crisp onvintage producing bright residual sweetness. palate. 3-5 $18 the finish. 3-5 Tomich Winesaromatics and flavours,” $26.99 Woodside Parksaid one judge. “Some 3-5 $22 Matahiwi Estate Adelaide Hillsbordered on green fruit Sauvignon Blancor were lean in flavour Haselgrove Bella Wairarapa Pinot Gris Reschke Coonawarra 2017 HHHbut at least avoided over Vigna Adelaide Hills 2017 HHH Fumé Blanc Grassy tropicalsoft flat versions.” Pinot Gris Good varietal fruit on the 2015 HHHH fragrances. Attractive 2017 HHHH nose with broad tropical Nutty oak complexity complexity of capsicum/Greenock Estate Attractive floral/citrus flavours on the richer to the nose but the oak stonefruit flavours.Wines Skyline Eden aromatics with bright style of palate. 3-5 is subservient to the Drying finish. $22Valley Pinot Gris light varietal flavours on $19.99 fruit on the flavoursome2017 HHHH the youthful palate. Nice palate. A real crowdSoft and drinkable with level of acidity. Plenty of Eldredge Vineyards pleaser. 3-5 $25 Haselgrove Bellalight flowery fragrances interest here. $25 Clare Valley Pinot Vigna Adelaide Hillsand hints of quince. A Gris 2017 HHH Delta Marlborough Sauvignon Blancsoft fruit driven palate Blackbilly Adelaide A savoury style with Sauvignon Blanc 2017 HHHtasting of pears and Hills Pinot Gris nutty nuances to the 2017 HHH1/2 A flavoursome, easy topeaches. $25 2017 HHH1/2 citrus and pear bouquet Complex and lifted with drink, minerally style in Lifted creamy and lean green fruit a funky passionfruit the nettle/gooseberry- butterscotch bouquet and flavours. $20 bouquet and powerful like spectrum. $25 rich flavoursome golden varietal flavours laced honey palate with buttery Tomich Wines with lingering crisp Salena Estate Wines notes and a lingering Woodside Vineyard acidity. 3-5 Silhouette Adelaide finish. 3-5 $24 Adelaide Hills Pinot $18.99 Hills Sauvignon Grigio 2017 HHH Blanc 2017 HHH Angas & Bremer Slight funkiness to this Tomich Wines A funky, complex and Langhorne Creek savoury style showing Tomich Hill Adelaide well worked style. Some Pinot Grigio good varietal fruit Hills Sauvignon citrus fruit and light 2017 HHH characters and crisp Blanc 2017 HHH1/2 residual sugar. $25 A nose of apples and acidity. $25 Smells of lemons pears with a nutty note and rock melons with Signature Wines and bright pear flavours SAUVIGNON light grassiness. Has Coordinates Single with a citrus edge. $15 BLANC & attractive varietal flavour Vineyard Adelaide BLENDS profile balanced by the Hills Sauvignon Chain Of Ponds acidity. $22 Blanc 2017 HHH Novello Adelaide 15 TASTED Slightly pungent Hills Pinot Grigio Loveblock Organic passionfruit bouquet 2017 HHH 11 AWARDED & Vegan Friendly with those passionfruit A funky style with some Marlborough characters obvious on earthy complexity to the Sauvignon Blanc the palate. $30 nose and a drying, pear 2017 HHH driven, palate. 3-5 A solid group of easy An easy drinker with a Saint Oaks $16 drinkers with the cool simple nettle green nose Estate Adelaide VBBAEULSYUTSE 2017 vintage offering and a lean green acid freshness and lean driven palate. $21.99 NZ Hills Sauvignon flavours, missing Blanc 2016 HHH out on full flavoured Attractive aromas of complexities. passionfruit and lychees which is echoed on the soft, sweet balanced palate. $14.99JUDGES - DAY 1 Nick Haselgrove Rob Ruediger Winestate’s 2010 Australian Wine consultant. Adam Clay Winemaker of the Year. Formerly senior Penfolds winemaker in Owner/Winemaker of production the Barossa Valley. Has Nick Haselgrove Wines. winemaker at completed vintages at Former chief winemaker at Accolade Wines Marchesi de Frescobaldi Haselgrove Wines. A ‘flying (Hardy Wine in Chianti and Pellegrin winemaker’ from 1993-95. Company) involving in California. Judge Judge at Hobart for 3 years all varieties and at the Alternative and associate judge at styles. Wine judge at Varieties show Cairns, Adelaide in 1996-97. Extensive Brisbane wine show. Queensland Wine International export activities. Awards and Clare Valley The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 121 wine show.

NEW RELEASESOTHER WHITE Berton Vineyards Main & Cherry Barristers Block Eldredge VineyardsVARIETALS & Winemakers Reserve Adelaide Hills Fiano Adelaide Hills Mollie Clare ValleyBLENDS Riverina Fiano 2017 HHHH Gewurztraminer Semillon Sauvignon 2017 HHHH1/2 A closed nose with a 2015 HHH1/2 Blanc 2017 HHH1/210 TASTED Slightly oily citrus light citrus edge. Good Floral peachy fragrances Passionfruit nose has a8 AWARDED characters to the nose pear/apple flavours on with fresh spicy rose slight grassy edge. TheMixed varietals with with hints of pears. The the soft, nicely balanced, petal-like flavours nicely crisp tropical palate ismixed results! Gruners full flavoured palate has palate. Interesting balanced by the tangy balanced by a good lineand fianos were the a lovely soft creamy pebble-like notes. $25 acidity. $28 of acid. $18pick of the bunch. texture and powerful Scion BlondeGreat to see a better grapefruit-like varietal Dry Rutherglen La Bise Italian Kiss CHARDONNAYunderstanding of these characters with tight White Muscat Adelaide Hills White & BLENDSvarietals. acidity. $14 2017 HHH1/2 Blend 2017 HHH Eccentric Wines Smelling of fresh Nice lift of tropical fruit 26 TASTEDTomich Wines Great Little Grooner rose petals with a aromas with more 19 AWARDEDWoodside Vineyard Adelaide Hills very flavoursome, tropical characters on theAdelaide Hills Gruner Veltliner lightweight palate that tight crisp palate. $25 The judges found thisGruner Veltliner 2017 HHHH1/2 has good acid/phenolic group to be all over the2017 HHHH1/2 A fresh, crisp and zesty balance. $24 SEMILLON & place. “Many similarA clean and lifted spicy wine with hints of BLENDS styles offering goodbouquet showing citrus and spices on the Salena Estate Wines drinking but withoutgravely notes with hints nose and has flavours Ink Series Riverland 4 TASTED great complexity,” saidof lychees. Slight oily reminiscent of Earl Grey Vermentino 3 AWARDED one judge. “The betteron the palate with spicy tea according to one 2016 HHH1/2 wines showed niceflavour profile and good judge. Has some melon Bright floral/sweet fruit Small top class offering stone fruit characterslength of zesty crisp notes. $27 bouquet with fresh good length of bright with good winemakingacidity. $25 honeysuckle-like flavour flavours. that lifted them above profile and a zesty citrus the pack.” crunch to the finish. $25 Rosenvale Vineyards Reserve Barossa Semillon 2017 HHHH A riper style smelling like dried peaches with a full flavoured palate that shows a good level of acidity ensuring a long life. $39 Nillahcootie Estate Upper Goulburn Region Semillon 2016 HHHH A big semillon style with bruised fruit-like characters on the nose. It is soft and round in the mouth with fresh citrus flavours and a zesty end. $28JUDGES - DAY 2 Peter Kennedy Rob Ruediger Winemaker for Ekhidna Wine consultant. Jeremy Maxwell Wines. Formerly Formerly senior Winery manager with Foggo Wines production winemaker at Maxwell Wines. and Brothers in Arms at Accolade Wines Previously vintaged wineries; following ten (Hardy Wine Company) in Sonoma Valley, years in liquor retail.Has involving all varieties Stellenbosch, Campagnia vintaged in St. Emilion and styles. Wine judge and Rhone Valley. Locally and judged in Perth and at Brisbane wine show. vintages at Wirra Wirra regional wine shows. and d’Arenberg. Has completed the AWEC and WSET course with distinctions.122 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Criminal Minds Below & Above St Anne’s Pericoota Tomich Wines South Australia Single Vineyard Chardonnay Gallery Collection Chardonnay Pemberton 2016 HHH Up, Up & Away 2017 HHHH Chardonnay An old-fashioned style Adelaide Hills Rosé A zesty fruit lollypop of a 2014 HHH1/2 with a developed oily 2017 HHHH nose with simple, slightly A nicely aged style that’s nose and lots of soft Cordial-like fruit bouquet sweet, white peach and all nutty, buttery and toasty/lemon flavours. with a simple raspberry melon flavours and a toasty on the nose and $16 confectionery palate long lingering acid finish. has some great toasty that is laced with some $18 nutty flavours. $35 Chateau Yaldara lovely, very crisp, acidity. Tamburlaine Organic Red Knot By Estate South $18 Wines On The Shingleback Australia VBBAEULSYUTSE Grapevine Orange McLaren Vale Chardonnay Saint Clair Family Chardonnay Chardonnay 2016 HHH Estate Premium 2017 HHHH 2017 HHH Simple subtle tropical Marlborough Pinot Subtle tropical aromas Light tropical fragrances fruit fragrances and Gris Rosé with a slight flinty edge and a fresh, simple and delicate fruit flavours 2017 HHHH and a rich palate with creamy palate with a with “thirst quenching” Quite savoury on fresh crisp pineapple-like lingering crisp finish. acidity. $17 the nose with a light flavours offering easy $14.95 smattering of fruit andBeresford Classic drinking. $20 Chain Of Ponds Tomich Wines a lovely fresh raspberryMcLaren Vale Haselgrove Staff Millers Creek Woodside Park palate with pretty floralsChardonnay Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills and a crisp finish. $21.502017 HHHHH Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay Chain Of PondsPowerful buttery 2017 HHHH 2017 HHH 2016 HHH Novello Adelaidebouquet with toasty oak Ripe stonefruit fragrances Toasty/oaky bouquet and A clean simple and Hills Rosécomplexity and some with a floral lift and a a soft peachy palate with well-balanced style with 2017 HHH1/2grilled nut elements. creamy lemon curd of a a light acid backbone. peach, melon and citrus A long, fresh and crispSoft and smooth in the palate with good zesty $20 fruit characters. $22 pale pink wine. Nicemouth and tasting of apple crispness on the La Bise The Kiss intensity of red berrypeaches and melons finish. $30 Mt Lofty Ranges Cape Bernier fruits on the nose andwith oak dominating the K1 by Geoff Hardy Chardonnay Tasmania across the entire palate.finish. $25 Adelaide Hills 2017 HHH Chardonnay $16Bowen Estate Chardonnay Lifted tropical fruit nose 2016 HHHCoonawarra 2017 HHHH with subtle buttery Honeyed ripe fruitChardonnay Slightly developed oily edge and a bright fresh bouquet and warm2017 HHHH1/2 character to the nose melon/peach palate. $25 oily palate that’s full ofAttractive tropical fruit with a flinty citrussy Blue Belle Adelaide flavour and developingfragrances with great element which is echoed Hills Chardonnay nicely. $42oak usage. Lean and on the long bright white 2017 HHHtight on the palate and peach palate. $35 Buttery nose with ROSÉbright with stonefruit Miles From Nowhere honeyed notes andflavours with quite bold Best Blocks soft and creamy in the 8 TASTEDoak characters and a Margaret River mouth with tight line ofcreamy end. $24 Chardonnay acid. $28 5 AWARDEDTomich Wines 2017 HHH1/2 Saddler’s CreekCloudbreak Adelaide Simple apple and Wines Alessandro “Good to see the trendHills Chardonnay quince-like aromas with Reserve Hunter to drier styles but we2016 HHHH1/2 a toasty palate that Tumbarumba could still go lighterFresh tropical aromas comes together nicely Chardonnay and drier,” suggestedwith just a hint of oak and has a crisp acid 2017 HHH one judge. “Generallyand a crisp, high acid, finish. $32 Leesy aromas with pleasant easy to drinkpalate with melon/ Tomich Wines underlying citrus wines.”peach fruit flavours Woodside Vineyard characters. Fresh leannicely supported in the Adelaide Hills palate with toasty/fruitybackground by the oak Chardonnay flavours. $36and lees. $22 2016 HHH1/2 Big toasty oak nose and full flavoured butterscotch-like palate with overt toasty oak characters and citric crispness. $25 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 123

NEW RELEASES Tenafeate Creek One Signature Wines La Bise French Kiss Tree Hill Petit Verdot Coordinates Single Adelaide Hills Red 2016 HHHH1/2 Vineyard Adelaide Blend 2017 HHH Inky/spicy aromas Hills Tempranillo The nose is lifted and with powerful violet 2017 HHHH spicy with youthful, elements. Interesting Youthful floral aromatics slightly tart, blue fruit well-balanced palate with with a big hit of oak. A flavours with soft lovely flavours in the light bodied, oak driven, tannins. $25 riper fruit spectrum and palate with an attractive long soft but assertive red berry/cherry flavour Singlefile tannins. 3-5 $30 profile. $35 Wines Run Free Paulmara Estates Western AustraliaGreenock Estate Artwine Leave Your The Melee Barossa Tempranillo Chateau YaldaraWines Skyline Eden Hat On Clare Valley Valley Sangiovese 2017 HHH Retro Barossa ValleyValley Rosé Montepulciano Shiraz Malbec Subtle spicy red fruit Merlot 2017 HHHHH2017 HHH 2016 HHHH1/2 2016 HHHH fragrances and cherry Sweet aromas; a fragrantRaspberries and Interesting aromatics Easy drinking style with fruit palate with fine combination of plumsstrawberries on the nose of ripe and fleshy fig, plenty of personality. Has tannins and soft acidity. and oak. More of theand a simple cranberry- blueberry and nutmeg lifted aromatic savoury sweet plum characterslike palate. $25 characters. A rich fruit fruit characters, long soft 3-5 $25 follow through to the pudding of a palate tannins, some oak and nicely rounded palateBarristers Block with long lean tannins good acidity. $21 GMH Family with good balancePoetic Justice and a crisp acid finish. Leabrook Estate Selection South between tannins, oakCharlize Adelaide Barossa Valley Australia Red Blend and acid. $35Hills Rosé 2017 HHH 3-5 $35 Cabernet Franc 2016 HHH Below & AboveLean and simple style 2017 HHH1/2 Rich ripe fruit nose with Single Vineyardwith green fruit and Berton Vineyards Cassis and spearmint hints of licorice and Pemberton Merlotsherbet-like characters Metal Label Riverina on the nose with a hint tarry notes. Rich meaty 2013 HHHH1/2and tight crisp acid Durif 2017 HHHH of licorice. A clean tight palate with firm tannins. Ageing beautifully andbackbone. $25 Inky mulberry aromas varietal palate with a $20 smelling of raspberries, with a spicy lift. Very fine line of tannins. blackberries andOTHER RED spicy palate with Zonte’s Footstep tobacco-like oak. A well-VARIETALS & a powerful tannin 3-5 $32 Canto Di Lago structured, dry, savouryBLENDS structure and tart acidity. 1847 Wines Home Fleurieu Peninsula palate with powerful Too young needs time. Block Barossa Valley Sangiovese Barbera plum/oak flavours. $3023 TASTED Petit Verdot Lagrein 2016 HHH Lake Chalice The15 AWARDED 3-5 $12 2015 HHH1/2 Powerful dark fruit Nest Marlborough Inky varietal fruit aromas and lovely Merlot 2017 HHH1/2“An interesting range of Hemera Estate characters with obvious presentation of ripe Peppery/mulberrywines,” said one judge. Single Vineyard violet-like floral notes, sweet flavours. Firm aromas and a simple“Great to see many of Barossa Valley strong chewy tannins tannins and an acid palate with good varietalthese varieties being Tempranillo and a drying finish. finish. $25 fruit characters, softwell made and showing 2017 HHHH tannins and greenisha good balance of fruit, Attractive ripe berry 3-5 $40 Paulmara Estates De acid. $14.99tannins and acid with bouquet with a hint of Cockfighter’s Ghost Nero Barossa Valley Nillahcootie Estateappropriate use of oak.” mint and a palate that Single Vineyard Nero D’Avola Upper Goulburn has a lovely balance McLaren Vale 2015 HHH Region Merlot between savoury and Nebbiolo 2017 HHH An ethereal red fruit 2012 HHH1/2 sweet and a lingering Attractive spicy herbal bouquet with a sweet, Candied fruit nose with finish. $35 varietal nose and a simple, fleshy and nicely aged notes developing red berry palate with maturing palate. $22 and pleasantly soft aged mouth puckering finish. flavours with a gentle MERLOT tannin structure. $35 3-5 $25 Cockfighter’s Ghost 4 TASTED Single Vineyard 4 AWARDED McLaren Vale Barbera 2017 HHH A small flight of nice Young lifted mulberry solid merlots. “We have bouquet and a fruity found our own ground palate with hints of with merlot showing beetroot and strong nice commercial styles tannins. $25 with candied fruit and structure but without trying to emulate Bordeaux!” said one judge.124 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingGRENACHE &BLENDS12 TASTED12 AWARDEDVery strong class. “Lotsof competition in makingthis variety and lots of‘sharing’ by winemakerswhich has lifted thequality of the style,” saidone judge. “However,grenache is lost in aGSM but shiraz adds‘flesh’ and mourvedre -structure and length.”Reillys Barking Ekhidna Wines Beresford Classic McLaren Vale III Red Knot ByMad Clare Valley McLaren Vale Barrel Select Associates Four ShinglebackGrenache Shiraz Grenache McLaren Vale G.S.M. Score McLaren Vale McLaren Vale G.S.M.2016 HHHH1/2 2016 HHHH1/2 2016 HHHH1/2 Grenache 2017 HHHHA nose of ripe fruit and Ripe jammy fruit bouquet Toasty oak dominates 2016 HHHH1/2 Some very good varietalchocolate with tobacco- with a nice spicy lift. Quite the nose with good A lovely wine smelling fruit characters here withlike notes. The palate a savoury palate with varietal fruit underneath. and tasting like a a soft tannin structure,is soft and “giving” a soft tannin structure Oak also prominent on Christmas cake with nice subtle use of oakand full of sweet plum and good varietal fruit the long, tight palate some rich meaty and a bright crisp acidfruit flavours laced with characters well supported with raspberry fruit characters evident and a finish. $14.95tannins and strong oak. by the oak. $27 flavours and a dash of nice peppery lift. It has$20 pepper. $28 drying tannins, savoury oak and a long finish. $43· 2017 MARJICO CAB FRANC ROSÉ· 2014 MARJICO CABERNET FRANC· 2015 MARJICO CABERNET FRANCCABERNET FRANC – WITH PASSIONMARJICO WINES2B The Crescent, Nuriootpa SA 5355Contact Kerry Ward for ordersPhone: 0418 819 507Email: [email protected] No 51408099www.marjicowines.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 125

NEW RELEASESEkhidna Wines Ekhidna Wines Delta Marlborough Below & Above CABERNETMcLaren Vale McLaren Vale Pinot Noir Single Vineyard BLENDSG.S.M. 2016 HHHH Grenache Shiraz 2016 HHHHH Pemberton PinotAromas of plums and 2014 HHH Some very good Noir 2013 HHHH1/2 5 TASTEDraspberries with a dash Big ripe jammy style. strawberry-like fruit Aged nose showing 4 AWARDEDof herbs. A simple but Powerful fruit cake characters perfectly hints of soy sauce and A very small classpleasant peppery plum characters on the simple supported by well-handled spices. Age softening showing some nicepalate with a prickly acid nose and the more savoury/smoky oak with the palate with great cabernet blends.finish. $23 complex palate. $25 chocolaty/earthy touches, tertiary and bottle age Tamburlaine OrganicZ Wine Rustica good tannin/acid balance flavours but still showing Wines Wine LoversBarossa Valley PINOT NOIR and lingering finish. some varietal fruit. $35 Full House OrangeGrenache $19.99 Singlefile Wines Cabernet Sauvignon2017 HHH1/2 11 TASTED Cape Bernier Run Free Western Merlot Malbec PetitThe nose is fresh, 8 AWARDED Haphazard Tasmania Australia Pinot Noir Verdot Cabernetsimple and fruity - Very strong class Pinot Noir 2017 HHHH Franc 2017 HHHHthe palate long and with excellent varietal 2016 HHHH1/2 Pungent and slightly Attractive leafy cabernetelegant with flavours of characters. Some had Powerful earthy leathery developed red fruit nose with some dustyraspberries and green added stalkiness which nose underscored by aromas with good pinot oak and a smoothpeppers. $20 worked well with some Maraschino cherry-like flavours, soft tannins and blackcurrant palate withBeresford Estate but not with others. characters. The silky a savoury oak backbone. soft tannin and goodMcLaren Vale Overall it was great to smooth, length palate Good drinking. $25 level of acidity. $24Grenache see the combination of is full of flavour well GMH Adelaide Hills2015 HHH1/2 elegance and power. supported by subtle oak Pinot Noir Greenock EstateA full-bodied style with elements. $29 2017 HHH1/2 Wines Stone Drysubtle spicy dark plum Tomich Wines Delta Hatter’s Hill An attractive strawberry- Land Barossa Valleyaromas and similar Woodside Vineyard Marlborough Pinot like varietal nose with Cabernet Shirazcharacters reflected on Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 HHHH1/2 some stalky notes. Soft 2015 HHHHthe soft sweet palate. $40 Noir 2017 HHHHH An excellent elegant and round in the mouth Green leafy fruit bouquetd’Arenberg The A great pinot nose! It’s pinot. Beautiful and tasting of berries. with capsicum notesIronstone Pressings all strawberries, cherries, strawberry and $20 and similar characters onMcLaren Vale leather and spice with rhubarb-like varietal Cape Bernier the palate with cedaryGrenache Shiraz a good transfer of fruit characters, some Tasmania Pinot Noir oak and slightly dryingMourvedre pinot character to the well-handled oak, good 2016 HHH1/2 tannins. $352015 HHH1/2 excellent palate with tannins, balancing acid Smells of strawberry Zonte’s FootstepAn oaky nose with flavour richness and and drying oak finish. jam with leathery notes. Blackberryleathery notes and a complexity and fine $34.99 Loads of dark, fruits of the Patch Fleurieuheavy tannic palate tannins. $30 forest, flavours and good Peninsula Cabernetsupported by red berry oak/tannin support. $42 Tempranillofruits and some pleasant 2016 HHH1/2oak. $70 Simple dark fruit aromasTamburlaine Organic with some pungencyWines Wine Lovers and a warming palateOrange G.S.M. with pleasant plum2017 HHH flavours and softSimple sweet plum tannins. $25bouquet with candiedfruit flavours and a goodbackground of acid. $24Vale Cru Full BodiedMcLaren Vale G.S.M.2016 HHHSmells of peppers,plums and licorice andhas a big, rich, sweetflavoured palate withchewy tannins. $18126 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting CABERNET Tenafeate Creek One SAUVIGNON Tree Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 28 TASTED 2016 HHHH1/2 24 AWARDED Delightful leafy green blackcurrant bouquet. Strong consistent class. A great palate - simple “Almost every wine and balanced with a here had good cabernet rich intensity of cassis varietal characters at flavours, hints of olives various weight levels,” and good use of oak. $28 said one judge. “Well Pertaringa Rifle & managed fruit and Hunt McLaren Vale good winemaking here Cabernet Sauvignon offers some great buys 2016 HHHH1/2 across all vintages,” said The nose is lifted, leafy another. and minty. Good palate structure showingGreenock Estate Koonara Wanderlust Beresford Estate plenty of length andWines Angas King Coonawarra McLaren Vale depth of ripe cabernetBarossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon varietal flavours withShiraz Cabernet 2015 HHHHH 2015 HHHHH drying dusty tannins in2015 HHH1/2 Slightly porty notes to A very interesting style support. $40Sweet/savoury cabernet the intense sweet cassis that’s complex, earthy Pertaringadominant aromas with fruit nose and lovely and quite savoury. The Tipsy Hillgreenish fruit flavours blackcurrant juiciness nose has a minty lift and McLaren Valeand drying tannin on the warming palate the elegant palate is Cabernet Sauvignonstructure. Sweet/sour with its fine tannins and filled with flavours that 2016 HHHH1/2finish. $28 as one judge described - linger on well after the A big intense deep red “salivating acidity”. $25 wine has gone. $40 wine with powerful spicy cake aromas and lots of powerful oak on the palate but the ripe cabernet fruit can hold its own. Drying tannins. $250lteot’bsugseintedsosw...n INTERESTEDyour way. IN A BUSINESS TRAVEL PARTNER THAT UNDERSTANDS YOU? LET’S TALK phone 1800 220 029 9 Australia’s No.1 Travel Agency 9 24/7 Assistance 9 Competitive corporate discount airfares and hotel programs The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 127

NEW RELEASESRyder Clare Valley 1847 Wines Pappy’s K1 by Geoff Hardy GMH SouthCabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Adelaide Hills Australia Cabernet2016 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon SauvignonCigar box-like aromas 2015 HHHH 2016 HHH1/2 2016 HHHwith hints of dark Lovely aromatic Big upfront Powerful oak on the noseberries. A flavoursome complexity of plums, confectionery fruit but in check with the fruitand creamy palate blackcurrants and aromas with a menthol and has sweet fresh fruitwith lingering leafy chocolate and a well- lift and lovely lingering flavours. $20complexity and savoury balanced palate full of ripe fruit flavours. Oak Chateau Yaldaratannins. $15 flavour with an oaky tends to dominate. $45 Estate South finish. $40 Australia CabernetPertaringa Lakeside Reillys RCV The Greenock Estate SauvignonSouth Australia Dancer Clare Valley Wines Sun Old Vine 2015 HHHCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Back to Nature An attractive commercial2016 HHHH 2014 HHHH Barossa Valley style of cabernet withA simple ageing fruit A big juicy oak Cabernet good varietal fruitnose with a fresh, lighter dominated style but has 2015 HHH1/2 characters and strongflavoured palate tasting of lovely dark sweet and Leafy cabernet nose tannins. $17blackcurrants and juniper savoury fruits peeking nicely balanced by the Thomson Estateberries with subtle use of through with some nice cedary/toasty oak. Long W&J Clare Valleyoak. $20 soft tannins. $65 lingering spicy fruit cake Cabernet Sauvignon flavours with strong 2015 HHHBowen Estate Vintners Ridge tannins. $55 Minty and leafy aromasCoonawarra Estate Margaret d’Arenberg The with olive nuances.Cabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet Coppermine Road Simple palate with2016 HHHH Sauvignon McLaren Vale powerful varietalA big wine with an 2015 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon flavours. $30aromatic mix of red Briary bouquet with 2015 HHH1/2currants and cedary oak attractive leafy and Quite a confectionery Twinwoods Estateon the nose and lovely leathery notes. Soft and style with good Margaret Riverdark fruit flavours with rounded in the mouth spearmint cabernet Cabernet Sauvignonstrong drying tannins. $34 with lingering sweet characters. Very drying 2014 HHHd’Arenberg The High cassis flavours, strong tannin structure. Good An oak dominated noseTrellis McLaren Vale tannins, balancing acidity. $70 and a soft, elegant andCabernet Sauvignon acidity. $24.99 Capel Vale Regional savoury palate with a2015 HHHH Series Margaret firm tannic finish. $31Nose of cassis and River Cabernetcapsicum aromas Sauvignonwith the cassis fruit 2017 HHHcharacters carrying A lean and greenthrough to the drying youthful cabernet withtannin palate. Should powerful cassis varietalage well. $18 characters. $26.95 Twinwoods Estate Optivus Reserve Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 HHHH One judge compared the nose to grilled capsicum and sautéed blackcurrants! The savoury/tannic palate is stylish and flavoursome. $50 Z Wine Audrey Parson’s Paddock Barossa Valley Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 HHHH 2017 HHH1/2 Developing savoury style Leafy minty blackcurrant with a dark red fruit nose bouquet with lovely showing nightshade- cassis flavours filling the like leafiness which is simple and somewhat echoed on the long well- tight palate. $NA balanced palate. $35128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingNillahcootie Estate Brothers In Arms K1 by Geoff McLaren Vale III Tomich WinesUpper Goulburn No.6 Langhorne Hardy Tzimmukin Associates The Gallery CollectionRegion Cabernet Creek Shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz Descendant of Squid Grace & GlorySauvignon Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Ink McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz2012 HHH 2014 HHHHH 2016 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2017 HHHH 2017 HHHA good aged cabernet An elegance of sweet Lovely colour, bordering Very dark spicy fruit A big flavoursomewith long, dense and toasty oak and peppery on purple. Dense black aromas verging on chocolaty shiraz thatspirituous black fruits plum aromas. It’s earthy fruit aromas and licorice licorice. A bright fresh exhibits nice mulberry-with soft acidity and a and meaty on the palate notes. Silky and smooth palate rich with dark fruit like varietal characters.dry finish. $35 with flavours in the in the mouth with flavours and some silky- $18 savoury spectrum. Full sweet fruit flavours, smooth tannins. $43SHIRAZ tannin structure and soft tannins and an acid GMH SouthBLENDS softening acidity. $22 finish. $295 Australia Shiraz 2017 HHH7 TASTED Scotts Creek Retreat Fleshy cherry bouquet5 AWARDED South Australia with a dash of licorice. Shiraz Grenache Full-bodied blue fruitA great class of blends 2017 HHH1/2 palate with subtle oak.that shows how well A toasty savouryshiraz combines with bouquet with hints of 3-5 $20other red varietals fruit. A simple palate,across both warm and soft in the mouth, with Heathcote Winerycool regions. some lovely fresh fruit Cravens Place flavours. $18 Heathcote Shiraz Parson’s Paddock 2017 HHH SHIRAZ 2017 Langhorne Creek A fresh simple style of Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 light oak, spicy fruit and 10 TASTED A fresh youthful wine. nice tannin and acid 8 AWARDED Sweet floral fruit softness. $22 fragrances with a hint of Youthful wines perhaps mint. Very flavoursome Flavabom Vine Dried some a little ‘rushed’ aromatic palate. Soft South Australia thought the judges. “A tannins. 3-5 $NA Shiraz 2017 HHH number of these are still Malty oak mingles in diapers and need lots with some nice sweet more time,” said one blue fruits and there judge. “However, there are some slightly porty is weight and depth notes. $25 here and remarkable brightness.” SHIRAZ 2016 UNDER $30 18 TASTED 14 AWARDEDZonte’s Footstep Z Byrne Double Pass Some great buys hereForce McLaren Vale South Australia with so many winesShiraz Petite Syrah Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 achieving very high2015 HHHHH A big shiraz that is a scores. “Good strongPowerful aromas of ripe lovely melange of ripe flavours with balanceddark red fruits layered berry fruits, spices, oak and good structure,”with vanillin oak. Great malty notes, strong said one judge. “Thesepalate; soft and round tannins and toasty oak. wines show fantasticand full bodied with a colour and the best onesstrong tannin structure 5+ $20 offer excellent cellaringand mouthfilling potential.”blackcurrant and plum Pertaringa Lakesideflavours. $55 South Australia Shiraz 2017 HHH1/2 Berry fruit nose with a hint of chocolate and d’Arenberg The some nutty notes. Laughing Magpie Attractive, elegant, McLaren Vale Shiraz cranberry palate with Viognier crisp acidity. 5+ 2013 HHHHH $20 A big powerful style that has a dense complexity of varietal fruits showing savoury/leathery elements and some great use of oak. The acidity is soft and the tannins linger on. $29 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129

NEW RELEASES Tomich Wines Bird’s Eye View Tomich Hill Valley McLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Shiraz 2016 HHH 2016 HHHH1/2 An elegant spicy wine The bouquet is floral, with a hint of blueberries fragrant and perfumed and some mocha-like with dark brooding oak characters. Crisp briary flavours. Nice oak finish. 3-5 $NA complexity, soft tannin structure and good level Saint Oaks of acidity for a long life. Estate Adelaide Hills Shiraz VBBAEULSYUTSE 3-5 $28 2016 HHH Berton Vineyards Lifted perfumed spice Reserve Limited box of a nose with Gundagai Shiraz nicely balanced flavours 2016 HHHH and somewhat heavy Nice mix of sweet fruit tannins. $14.99 and toasty oak aromas with a dash of licorice. Ekhidna Wines Unusual smoked meat/ McLaren Vale Shiraz black olive characters 2016 HHH on the palate. 5+ Rich spicy blue fruit style $17 with some nice florals,Ryder Clare Valley Shingleback Zonte’s Footstep drying tannins and zingyShiraz 2016 HHHHH Davey Estate Lake Doctor acidity. $25Very attractive bouquet McLaren Vale Shiraz Langhorne Creekof blueberry-like 2016 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2016 HHHHvarietal fruit with Attractive oak lift to the A rich, silky smooth, well SHIRAZ 2016some light cedary pungent fruit aromas balanced, shiraz with $30+characters. The full with long ripe fruit an attractive elegancefleshy chocolaty palate flavours verging on of red currant fruits and 21 TASTEDexhibits plum flavours blackberry with smoky mocha-like oak with aand silky-smooth meat-like complexity mellow finish. $25 21 AWARDED with quite a dryingtannins. 3-5 tannic finish. $24.95 Tenafeate Creek$15 Beresford Classic McLaren Vale Shiraz Basket Press One A fantastic class! “A 2016 HHHH1/2 Tree Hill Shiraz strong vintage with A big hit of toasty/bacon- 2016 HHHH great results showing like oak characters on the Lovely nose; smells like a ripe grape tannins, blue fruit nose. Lovely spice box with plenty of flavour intensity, alcohol, palate texture, plenty of blue fruit characters and acid - the works!” length and an appealing has big rich dark chocolaty enthused one judge. The “personality!” Tastes of flavours with warming very high scores here plums and blueberries. finish. 5+ $28 reflect the quality of the wines. These are worth 3-5 $28 Reillys Barking VBBAEULSYUTSE cellaring or drink them Mad Clare now! La Bise The Kiss Valley Shiraz Barossa Valley 2016 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2016 HHHH Big, rich, full bodied shiraz Powerful pungent spicy with lots of sweet fruits, dark fruit mocha oak. some spices, hints of Heathcote Winery Obvious oak influence Mail Coach on the palate but rhubarb and slightly drying Heathcote Shiraz marries well with the oak tannins. 5+ juicy varietal fruit. $25 $20 2016 HHHHH A beautiful elegant shiraz with an abundance of Franklin Tate long, intense and slightly Estates Alexander’s Vineyards Margaret green, slightly lean, blue fruit varietal characters.Arakoon Sellicks River Shiraz Good oak and tanninBeach McLaren Vale 2016 HHH1/2Shiraz 2016 HHHHH A ripe rhubarb compote complexity. 3-5 $35Rich powerful darkchocolaty/black olive of a nose and a big, Pertaringa Over Thenose with savoury full flavoured, palate Top McLaren Valecomplexity and peppery with a powerful tannin Shiraz 2016 HHHHHnotes. A dense sweet structure. 3-5 $24 A “polished” wine withfruit palate shows very complexity of briarygood oak integration and fruit and malty mochastrong tannin structure. characters on the nose and very well balanced 5+ $20 and stylish palate showing great flavour persistence. 3-5 $40130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting K1 by Geoff Hardy Morgan Simpson Adelaide Hills Shiraz Reprieve McLaren 2016 HHHH1/2 Vale Shiraz Lifted cranberry bouquet 2016 HHHH with slightly tarry aged Full bodied style of characters starting to shiraz with lifted dark develop. Full bodied ripe fruit aromas and palate, great length and an unusual palate that depth of musky floral is packed with varietal flavours. 5+ $45 flavour. 3-5 $45 Maygars Hill Strathbogie Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2 Spicy mocha aromas lift off the dark fruit nose. Soft and fleshy in the mouth with exotic blue fruit flavours. 3-5 $30 Haselgrove The Lear McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 HHH1/2Paulmara Estates Bowen Estate Savoury meaty aromas Greenock EstateSyna Barossa Valley Coonawarra Shiraz Wines SkylineShiraz 2016 HHHHH 2016 HHHH1/2 with rhubarb-like lift and Barossa Valley a simple ‘roast meat’-like Shiraz 2016 HHHDark mocha characters Mulberry/oak bouquet savoury palate with firm Lifted plum characterson the nose with hints edged with olive on the nose and smoothof boot polish-like notes. Bright, youthful, tannins. 5+ $90 plum palate with cedary oak and nice acidity.elements which carries flavoursome palate withthrough to the rich the oak, varietal fruit, 3-5 $22flavoursome palate with acid and tannins all inits soft tannins and harmony. 3-5 $34acidity. 3-5 $60 Miles From Nowhere 2 Mates Z Wine Julius Best Blocks Barossa Valley Margaret RiverHaselgrove Col The Perfect Ten Shiraz Shiraz 2016 HHHCross McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz A youthful, full bodiedShiraz 2016 HHHHH 2016 HHHH1/2 2016 HHHH1/2 shiraz with a spicy Oak dominated shiraz slightly nutty bouquetA lovely ethereal Licoricey varietal aromas with varnishy/boot and dark fruit flavours.chocolaty bouquet with with well-handled oak.lifted dark varietal fruits. Slippery and silky in the polish characters, 3-5 $32 briary black fruits, niceA solid, weighty, palate mouth and full of sweet mix of spices and softwith dark jubey fruits, fruit/oak flavours withsavoury oak and plenty strong tannin structure - toasty oak but assertive Zonte’s Footstep tannins. 3-5 $60of, slightly angular, soft acid. 3-5 $35 Hills Are Alivetannins. 5+ $90 Adelaide Hills Shiraz Main & Cherry Haselgrove The 2016 HHHPertaringa Yeoman Single Vineyard Ambassador Firm flavoursome styleMcLaren Vale Shiraz Adelaide Hills Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz with spicy leafy aromas2016 HHHHH 2016 HHHH1/2 2016 HHHH1/2 and a bright rich dark fruitA big but elegant shiraz An elegant, fully Spices, cedar and blue palate. 3-5 $35that is youthful and flavoured, shiraz with fruit elements to theinteresting. Smells of a toasty/spicy bouquet nose with a full bodied, McLaren Vale IIIdark plums spiked with and upfront tannins on well balanced palate Greenock Estate Associates Squid that has attractive plum Wines Angas Kingpencilly oak and tastes the palate with good flavours with supporting Australia Shiraz Ink Estate Grownof dark sweet fruits with fruit underneath. Needs oak. 5+ $85 Single Vineyardlovely structure and time. 3-5 $35 2016 HHH Reserve McLaren Nose is rich, spicy andlength. 5+ $250 Hand Crafted chocolaty with a very Vale Shiraz Pertaringa by Geoff Hardy 2016 HHH Regional Series McLaren Vale Shiraz spicy peppery sweet Meaty savoury aromas 2016 HHHH fruit palate. 5+ McLaren Vale Shiraz Dark brooding briary $18 and flavours with a spicy 2016 HHHH1/2 bouquet and a bright lift and great tannin A complexity of aromatic, full bodied, structure. 5+ $65 briary fragrances with palate tasting of red rhubarb-like notes and berries and has nice hints of fruit cake. piquant acidity. $30 Nicely textured palate with spicy dark fruit flavours and silky tannins. 3-5 $35 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 131

NEW RELEASESSHIRAZ2015 & OLDER21 TASTED19 AWARDEDA very strong class.“Maturing quickly butstill show excellenttannin structures for theweight of fruit involved,”said one judge. “Theseare rich and dark withoutthe fruit aromatics of themore youthful previousflights but still powerfulenough.” Koonara Angel’s Reillys Dry Land 1847 Wines Pappy’s Beresford Estate Peak Coonawarra Clare Valley Shiraz Barossa Valley McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2015 HHHHH 2015 HHHHH Shiraz 2015 HHHHH 2015 HHHHH A complexity of sweet Rich, generous and Excellent aromas of Tarry licorice nose with briary fruit and spicy oak full flavoured style blackcurrants, plums and just a hint of violets aromas; hints of pencil developing dark charry licorice with toasty oak. and a beautiful, full shavings. Attractive complexity to the blue Full bodied, smooth, flavoured, fleshy palate maturation characters fruit/forest floor-like chocolaty palate with brimming over with on the palate mingling varietal fruit characters. rich dark fruits, strong dark licoricey fruits and generous plum fruit and Excellent oak and strong tannins and persistent chewy tannins. Needs crisp acid. 3-5 $25 tannins. $32 acidity. 5+ $40 time. 5+ $40 ...where we live with our four daughters, dogs, cat, donkeys and chooks, growing and making natural wine and cider from our fruit. www.mccarthysorchard.com.au 207 Sand Road, McLaren Vale132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingTotino Estate Wines Reillys RockridgeFrancesco Reserve Cellar SelectionAdelaide Hills Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz2014 HHHHH 2015 HHHExcellent meaty/toasty Mature chocolaty plumsavoury bouquet with aromas and an elegant,the meaty characters but full flavoured, palatecarrying through to the with savoury notes.full bodied ripe fruit/oak palate with slightly 3-5 $19angular tannins. $25 Springton HillsMain & Cherry Wines Koop CreekAdelaide Hills Shiraz Reserve Eden Valley2015 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2015 HHHLifted red plum Rhubarb-like aromasaromatics with nice blue mingle with plum fruitfruits and a touch of oak. and has nice weightSilky smooth palate with of sweet fruit flavours.great sweet berry flavourpersistence with good 3-5 $36tannin structure. $35 SWEETThomson Estate Z Wine Hedley Greenock Estate Greenock Estate WHITES &W&J Clare Valley Barossa Valley Wines Origin Wines Sun Old FORTIFIEDSShiraz Shiraz 2015 HHHH Barossa Valley Vine Barossa Valley2014 HHHH1/2 Spicy blueberry fruit/ Shiraz 2014 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2015 HHH 3 TASTEDAn elegant red/blue fruit toasty oak aromas and The leathery chocolaty Powerful ripe berry 3 AWARDED slight green streak. nose has rhubarb notes fruit characters on bothshiraz nose and lovely Mature blue fruit palate and oak tending to nose and palate withpersistence of fresh with fine soft tannins dominate the slightly some savoury interest.berry and dark cherry and gentle acid finish. minty fruit palate. St Anne’s Pericootaflavours with slightly 3-5 $55 Liqueur Shiraz 2017drying tannin structure 5+ $35 5+ $120 (375ml) HHH1/2and finish. 3-5 $30 Sweet liqueur style with powerful spiritNillahcootie Estate d’Arenberg The Dead Carmine’s McLaren characters and porty-likeUpper Goulburn Arm McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz fruit with firm tanninsRegion Shiraz Shiraz 2015 HHHH 2015 HHH1/2 and a hot finish. $30 A big wine with A rich, oak dominated,2012 HHHH1/2 medicinal varnishy style with good GreenockA nicely aged, smooth characters lifting off the intensity of dark sweetand mellow, shiraz with ripe fruit nose. Powerful fruits sitting underneath. Estate Wines VBBAEULSYUTSEan attractive complexity tannin palate. “Has Good strong tannins. Sweet Harmony good potential,” said one Australia Moscatoof sweet, lifted, dark judge. $70 3-5 $25 NV HHHvarietal fruit characters,toasty oak and gentle Citrussy notes to the Carmine’s The nose and a grapeyacidity. 3-5 $35 Chain Of Ponds Tribute C8 Old Vine sweet palate with a Grave’s Gate Adelaide Foothills drying finish. $18Chateau Yaldara Adelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz NV HHHEstate SouthAustralia 2015 HHH1/2 Mature, leathery, Scion RutherglenShiraz VBBAEULSYUTSE Full flavoured fleshy chocolaty style Muscat Nouveau shiraz with attractive underscored by 2017 HHH2015 HHHH floral/blue fruit powerful sweet berry Very sweet - “NeedsA lovely complex, another 50 years,”velvety textured, wine fragrances and flavours fruits. 3-5 $50 said one judge! Nice with quite a drying characters of driedwith mouth-watering tannic finish. 3-5 apricots and sultanas. $29spicy plum varietal fruitcharacters and a strong $20 Greenock Estatetannin structure. Wines Stone Dry3-5 $17 Land Eden Valley Shiraz 2015 HHH Dark malty nose and full bodied dark fruit palate with mature notes and fine tannins. 3-5 $35 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 133

134 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

AFbAoNuAtTFI CizA Lz AUSTRALIA’S LOVE AFFAIR WITH FRENCH CHAMPAGNE CONTINUES TO GROW WITH THE LATEST TRIO OF BUBBLES IN A BOTTLE TO ARRIVE MAKING AN IMMEDIATE IMPACT.MICHAEL HINCE France accounting for about half of all champagne sales valued at 4.7 billion euros ($A7.45b) in 2016.RESTAURANT Entrecote in Melbourne’s salubrious SouthYarra was the venue for the recent Champagne Charles de The House’s fourth-generation winemaker ChristopheCazanove launch in Australia. Rapeneau was the 2017 International Wine Challenge’s sparkling winemaker of the year. The family now owns 200ha of vines in Over lunch in the company of Champagne Dames, 64 villages in the Champagne region. This gives them control ofChampagne Jayne (Jayne Powell) and Champagne Dame(Kyla Kirkpatrick) Coles Liquor introduced the 19th century a very large percentage of the fruit that goes into their cuvees.Reims-based Champagne House to the local audience. Given the quality of the wines tasted at the lunch, Rapeneau, a graduate in oenology from the University of Reims in 1983, Three Charles de Cazanove cuvees will initially be ranged obviously knows his craft. The wines displayed the structureat Vintage Cellars, First Choice Liquor and Liquorland - the that pinot noir brings, the finesse of chardonnay and theBrut Tradition Tete de Cuvee NV (RRP $55), a Brut Rosé lively assertiveness pinot meunier adds to a blend.(RRP $65) and, in a distinctively-shaped bottle, a Brut France’s 300 Champagne Houses are judged by theMillesime 2007 (RRP $75). quality and consistency of their non-vintage wines; it’s pivotal to their acceptance and global success. The exchange between the two effervescent Dames Relative to the other wines, the Brut Tradition Tete dewas, unlike the bubbly, restrained, thankfully sabres Cuvee NV (20 per cent chardonnay/40 per cent pinotremained in their scabbards and there was no noir/40 per cent pinot meunier), drank more like anceremonial sabrage. The atmosphere was cordial aperitif blanc de blanc. Maybe it was the influence ofand both the conversation and the wine flowed with the pinot meunier or perhaps it was my bias for theconsummate ease as is the norm for such occasions. style coming through. I was impressed by the Brut Rosé’s freshness and Charles de Cazanove was founded in Avize in 1811 bold middle palate, spicy red fruit and trace of quinceby Charles Gabriel de Cazanove and was once one of on the lingering back palate, complemented by a hintthe favourite tipples of Edward VII. Since 2004 it has of menthol on the finish.been part of the Rapeneau family’s G.H.Martell & CoGroup, currently the largest family-owned producer in The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 135Champagne, and the sixth largest overall. It is presentlythe fifth most popular champagne brand in France, with

The wines displayed the structure that pinot noir brings, the finesse of chardonnay and the lively assertiveness pinot meunier adds to a blend. Hopefully the surge in the rosé category generally will boost roséchampagne sales. My local merchant’s still rosé wine offering hasgone from two products four years ago to 46. Encouragingly, initialsales of the Charles de Cazanove Brut Rosé, already on the market, have been better than expected and additional supplies are on the way. A happy result considering Rapeneau has a weakness for rosé champagne. 2014 was the dominant vintage in both Brut Tradition Tete de Cuvee NV and the Brut Rosé Tete de Cuvee. The Millesime 2007 was rich and opulent, with a creamy, lactic mouthful leading to a gentle chardonnay-dominant finish. It was served at optimum temperature, thus its tertiary characteristics were immediately apparent and continued to evolve from first sip to last. Underneath the creaminess were robust flavours, with the pinot noir’s peacock’s tail evident. A sort of iron fist of a wine in a velvet glove! Having been on lees for nine years, the Millesime 2007’s nutty, toffee and autolysis overtones shine through. I would expect to pay in excess of $100 a bottle for wine of this finesse, thus at RRP $75 it represents extremely good value. When tasted double blind by Vintage Cellars tasting panel, which included Bob Paulinski MW, it came out top of the category. It should fly off the shelves, so expect to see a 1990s vintage cuvee on sale come Christmas this year. Paulinski first encountered Charles de Cazanove in the US in 2016 and was136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

immediately impressed with the House’s classic, elegant, rich small, independent growers as outlined in the recent Bursting Bubblesstyle and the high proportion of reserve wines that go into their book, by Bibendum’s Robert Walters, though this is more apparent invintages. Also the G. H. Martell connection, both from a quality the on- premise market than in the retail one. However these small-and business perspective, gave Paulinski the confidence to bring grower champagne supplies are limited and constitute but a short-termCharles de Cazanove to Australia. irritant to the dominant, big-brand houses with their huge marketing budgets. While I’m wary of extolling the virtues of any wine on a singletasting, especially in the presence of its makers and marketers, I And, in the long-term, these bespoke, small growershare Paulinski’s enthusiasm for the three Charles de Cazanove champagnes may well be beneficial in that they arecuvees we tasted. likely to encourage consumers to trade up to rarer and aged vintages from the big houses - thus less is more Launching a newcomer on the Aussie market is no easy task. and everybody wins!From afar Australia appears to be an attractive, lucrative market forchampagne. Our infatuation with champagne has blossomed over the Also, small growers invariably disclose thelast decade or so. In 1999 we consumed 1.69 million bottles, rising to disgorgement date on their back labels, a welcome and2.03 million bottles by 2009, and swelling to 6 million-plus bottles in long overdue initiative many a traditional Champagne2013. By 2015 corks were popping aplenty when consumption peaked House would do well to invoke, especially for theat a staggering 8.11 million bottles. non-vintage cuvees. Last year Australia was the seventh largest champagne market I’m not sure what the modern-day Champagneworldwide and fifth largest in terms of bottles drunk per person. Yet Dames thought of Charles de Cazanove, thoughdespite this buoyancy it’s not all roses. I noticed Champagne Jayne in animated conversation, in fluent French, with de According to Tyson Stelzer “the per-bottle spend in Australia is Cazanove’s export director Jean-Remyalready one of the lowest in the world, the vast majority of which Rapeneau, so can only assume the bubblesis non-vintage entry level wines of the big houses”. In addition the were to her liking.dominant retailers directly import large quantities which retail foras little as $25 a bottle. Time will tell, however I think the softly spoken, adroit Paulinski and all at Charles Then there’s the problem of parallel importing which takes place de Cazanove, especially the winemakerwhen, for example, a retailer sources wine internationally from a Christophe Rapeneau, will be well pleasedsupplier other than the usual distributor and imports it without using come Christmas 2018. middlemen. Often the wine may have been surplus stock from aregular importer who over ordered, an obvious win for consumers Page 30: Cazanove advert from 1960. Exterior of thebut not for the distributors or the reputation of the brands involved, Charles de Cazanove building. Harvest vineyard ofespecially if handling has been compromised. Cazanove. Page 32: Harvest and vineyard of Cazanove. Also there’s a challenge evident from the emerging popularity of the Above: Christophe Rapeneau chief winemaker of Cazanove, 4th generation. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20Saint Oaks Estate Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc Scarpantoni Estate School Molly’s Cradle HunterAdelaide Hills Sauvignon 2017 Block White McLaren Vale Valley Verdelho 2017Blanc 2016 Hints of fresh cut grass Sauvignon Blanc SemillonAttractive aromas of and snow pea sit alongside Chenin Blanc 2017 Great varietal definition herepassionfruit and lychees citrus. A crisp crunchy style Passionfruit aromas with with the nose and palatewhich is echoed on the soft, of sauvignon - plenty of fresh a hint of green mangoes. showing lots of tropical fruitsweet balanced palate. $14.99 lime and lemon. The acidity is Generous flavours and characters laced with fresh vivid and juicy and the finish a refreshing finish. $14 citrus and enticing hints ofSaint Oaks Estate dry and complete. $18.95 bananas all wrapped up inPhone: 0487 886 888 Scarpantoni Estate Wines bright acidity. 3-5 $18Email: wineadelaidehills@ Te Pa Family Vineyards Phone: 08 8383 0186saintoaksestate.com Web: www.tepawines.com Email: [email protected] Molly’s Cradle WinesWeb: www.saintoaksestate.com Web: www.scarpantoniwines.com Phone: 02 9979 1212 Email: [email protected] Web: www.mollyscradle.com.auBEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY (NZ $25 & UNDER) Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable.138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Chateau Yaldara Greenock Estate Wines Boulder Bay Rosé 2017 Saint Oaks EstateEstate South Australia Sweet Harmony Australia Creamy and bright with some Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2016Chardonnay 2016 Moscato NV red apple, strawberry and Lifted perfumed spice box ofSimple subtle tropical fruit Citrussy notes to the nose citrus notes sitting alongside a nose with nicely balancedfragrances and delicate and a grapey sweet palate soft summer red fruits. A flavours and somewhatfruit flavours with “thirst with a drying finish. $18 bright and juicy dry rosé. $25 heavy tannins. $14.99quenching” acidity. $17 Greenock Estate Wines Moturoa Island Wine Co - Saint Oaks Estate1847 Winery (SA) Pty Ltd Phone: 08 8563 2898 Boulder Bay Phone: 0487 886 888Phone: +61 8 8524 0207 Email: [email protected] Phone: 021843758 Email: wineadelaidehills@Email: [email protected] Web: www.gewines.com Email: [email protected] saintoaksestate.comWeb: www.1847wines.com Web: www.boulderbaywines.co.nz Web: www.saintoaksestate.com PUBLIC TASTING Friday 25 May 2018 6 - 8.30pm, at the National Wine Centre, AdelaideCome and join us for this fabulous event. Over 700 bottles available to taste. Winestate subscribers are entitled to one free ticket & must call to claim your ticket. Additional guests are welcome at a cost of only $50 per person! Contact Winestate on 08 8357 9277 or [email protected] to claim or order your ticket. - Strictly limited number of tickets available. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 139

BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20Gooree Park Mudgee Berton Vineyards Metal Reillys Barking Mad Gooree Park MudgeePinot Noir 2016 Label Riverina Durif 2017 Clare Valley Shiraz 2016 Grenache Shiraz 2016Appealing concentration and Deep purple wine with lifted A nose of ripe fruit and An intense aromatic harmonycombination of strawberry, fruit cake-like aromatics chocolate with tobacco-like of dark cherries and vanillablueberry, meaty and slightly and pleasant minty/herbal notes. The palate is soft and with sweet spice complexity.jammy characters on the elements. Loads of blackberry- “giving” and full of sweet Lovely leathery, nutty, licoricenose with chocolaty/fruit like flavours supported by plum fruit flavours laced with palate with plenty of varietalflavours, subtle tannins and elements of licorice and tannins and strong oak. $20 fruit support and warminggood acidity. 3-5 $20 sweet spices. 5+ $12 alcohol. 5+ $20Gooree Park Wines Berton Vineyards Reillys Wines Gooree Park WinesPhone: 02 6378 1800 Phone: +61 02 6968 1600 Phone: 08 8358 0480 Phone: 02 6378 1800Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: www.gooreepark.com Web: www.bertonvineyards.com.au Web: www.reillyswines.com.au Web: www.gooreepark.comthe wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 158 | May/June 2018Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without E-mail: [email protected] the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Website: www.distalliance.com arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Designer WINESTATE is published six times a year by Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd.Naomi Fry E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Telephone (08) 8357 9277Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2018 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, Website www.winestate.com.auTasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Chateau Yaldara Estate Oakover Wines White Shingleback Red Knot Shingleback Vin ValeSouth Australia Label Western Australia Classified McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016Shiraz 2015 Shiraz 2017 Shiraz 2016 A youthful nose with an An attractive wine with intense berry bouquet and lightA lovely complex, velvety A baby that’s all licorice brooding black fruit fragrances intensity of boysenberry-liketextured, wine with mouth and blackberries with with generous and opulent varietal flavours. “A real crowdwatering spicy plum varietal a dash of spice. Very varietal fruit flavours. $19 pleaser”, said one judge. $15fruit characters and a strong drinkable. 3-5 $12.99tannin structure. 3-5 $171847 Winery (SA) Pty Ltd Oakover Wines Shingleback Wine Shingleback WinePhone: +61 8 8524 0207 Phone: +61 8 9374 8000 Phone: 08 8323 9199 Phone: 08 8323 9199Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected]: www.1847wines.com Web: www.oakoverwines.com.au Web: www.shingleback.com.au Web: www.shingleback.com.au Come and taste the best wines from Australia and New Zealand. All wines having achieved HHHH½ or HHHHH throughout 2018. Singapore Airlines Winestate Wine of the Year 2018 Subscriber Tasting National Wine Centre, Adelaide Thursday 20th SEPTEMBER 2018 6.00pm – 8.30pm Tickets available mid-2018SUBSCRIBERS TASTING 2018 Winestate subscribers are entitled to one free ticket & must call to claim your ticket. Additional guests are welcome at a cost of only $50 per person! Phone: 08 8357 9277 or email [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 141

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