Winestate Magazine Annual 2014

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annuallyANNUAL 2014 WINESTATE VOL 37 ISSUE 1 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE WINESTATE’S BEST WINES OF 2013 IN REVIEW ANNUALA CLARE Edition 2014 CLASSIC UP TO THE CHALLENGEPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 Annual 2014 Special Feature Vol 37 Issue 1 $11 AUS (inc GST) WINE OF THE YEAR NZ $12 SGD $16 US $14.99 GBP £8.95 WRAP-UP EUR 9.95 China RMB120 HKD $150 INR 1000 RUB 700 SPDEREADMEACDOONMOIMNAYT’ EGSATAHSETRHSES‘PTEWEOD- CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 ZAR 200 The pick of the crop from over 10,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2013

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NO.260 ANNUAL 2014 THE WOLF BLASS FOUNDATIONEditor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Established 1994NZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Michael Bates Proudly SupportingAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] •Australian Wine Education,Art Director Renate Gerard E-mail: [email protected] •Viticultural, OenologicalGraphic Designer Jasmine Holmes Research & Development,Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator E-mail: [email protected] •Wine & Health,Printing DAI Rubicon •Global WineWinestate Web Site E-mail: [email protected] Industry ProfileCONTRIBUTORS phone +61 8 8232 5322New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley [email protected] Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Australia, Victoria & Western AustraliaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] South WalesAngelica Naranjo - Pearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966 E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 570 4948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2014 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsANNUAL 2014R E G U L A R S FEATURES THE YEAR IN THE REAR-VIEW MIRROR 12 Briefs 26 2013 VINTAGE REPORT 18 European Report with Sally Easton Great expectations 113 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley There’s an air of anticipation in Some like it hot 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King the Australian wine industry after it The 2013 vintage will be remembered as a 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel experienced a “unique” 2012-13 growing real scorcher, writes Karyn Foster. While the 44 Grapevine season, writes Charles Gent. From east heat was up, yields were down by as much 50 Wine Investment & Collecting to west and north to south, Mother Nature as 30 per cent – great for making quality 56 What’s it Worth? “treated” grape growers to a series of concentrated red wines but not for growers 75 Subscription Form weather events rarely experienced. being paid by the tonne. Temperatures 172 Aftertaste soared near harvest time, speeding up fruit 30 Drama dominates as the ‘two-speed ripening, which made for a few frantic weeks.PLUS-THE BEST economy’ gathers speedOF THE BEST China is playing a lead role in the Australian 122 VICTORIA: wine industry, writes Dan Traucki. For those Back-to-back rarity lifts the gloomWe revisit the most outstanding wines - rated companies which have a “China plan” in Great book-end vintages and growing industryfour stars and above - that we tasted in 2013. place things are looking up, but for those investment have brightened the outlook for limiting themselves to traditional export producers, writes Jeni Port. The 2012 vintage 60 Best of Styles markets or the domestic market, “stagnation” set the standard and 2013 followed with 91 Best of New Releases is the key word. equally impressive results, while in the Yarra 102 The 2013 Best of Top 40 Best Buys Valley a multi-million-dollar vineyard investment 111 Best of South Australia 32 A Clare classic up to the challenge added to the growing industry optimism. 121 Best of Victoria Persistence has paid off for Clare’s Pike 127 Best of New South Wales brothers after they walked away with the 128 NEW SOUTH WALES: 133 Best of Western Australia Best Australian Riesling at the Canberra After tough times, it’s happy days 141 Best of Queensland International Riesling Challenge. Nigel There’s a big whiff of excitement in the air 145 Best of Tasmania Hopkins writes that the 29th release of that only a great vintage can generate, writes 149 Best of New Zealand the 2013 Traditionale Riesling is a classic Rick Allen. After a few poor years the 2013 157 Michael Cooper’s Best of 2013 Releases Clare riesling that is drinking well now, or vintage looks uniformly strong. Canberra’s will age for up to 10 years. International Wine Challenge chairman KenWinestate Magazine Helm is bullish about the latest vintage,Issue Number 260 38 Sweet success describing it as the “best in 40 years”.Annual 2014 Tucked away in a quiet corner of the Adelaide Hills another chapter in the Glen 133 WESTERN AUSTRALIA:Cover photograph Ewin story is unfolding. Joy Walterfang Stormy start gives way to optimism© picsfive. writes that the new owners of the 170-year- After a savage start to the season when old Adelaide icon have embarked on an extreme winds and hail decimated some ambitious program to restore the estate to grapes, with losses of up to 40 per cent its former glory days. reported in the Margaret River region, the weather settled before again turning wet in 34 WINE OAFwTaHrEdsYE2A0R13 time for the harvest. Mike Zekulich writes that SPECIAL WOYA FEATURE while quantity is down, quality is definitely up. It’s time to celebrate the wines and personalities which have dominated our 142 QUEENSLAND: industry over the last year. The winners of Pioneering spirit lives on Winestate’s annual Wine of the Year Awards The move to more Mediterranean varietals are the stars of our industry, and now you can continues to gain momentum in the northern view the presentation ceremony in our four- regions of the state, according to Peter page pictorial special. Scudamore-Smith. Describing it as a pioneering move, he says more growers are embracing the move. 150 NEW ZEALAND: Record vintage fuels a surge of optimism With export price moving higher and an outstanding 2013 vintage, Michael Cooper reports that growers are a “far happier bunch”. With the 2008 glut almost a thing of the past, growers are focusing on NZ’s growing export trade. It is now the world’s eighth largest exporter of wine by value and second to France in terms of average prices paid for wines.





editorialWHAT AN ENORMOUS YEAR for Winestate. In addition to producing themagazine, we have created a new offshoot business that is helping promote Australasianwines overseas. Over the past 12 months we have launched into wine road shows atVinitaly, twice in Hong Kong, following up previous representation at Top Wine China inBeijing and a Singapore Wine Exhibition. In each case we represent 10 or more smallwineries that are seeking promotion, sales or distributors in each marketplace. Our roleis not to sell wine but to act as a facilitator to achieve these aims. Next year Taiwan ison the radar. (And keep your eye out for our first international tasting of South Africanwines at the Perth Hyatt on February 2, plus our biggest judging of Italian and Spanishwines in our March/April issue). This year we also had a record 11,000 plus wines entered into our tastings both inAustralia and in New Zealand (judged by leading wine editor Michael Cooper and hispanel). This shows that while we may be the toughest wine competition in the wine media,the industry undoubtedly respects our system where we use peer winemakers to judgetheir wines blind. The great advantage of this is that the judges know a wine fault or twowhen they see one, and while opinions may differ on which are the best wines, it doesallow for more rigorous evaluation. For the wine industry as a whole, in both Australia and New Zealand, these remain astough times, with supply continuing to exceed demand. While increased interest fromAsia has helped to soak up some volume, it is likely that this situation will continue for the foreseeable future. During competitivetimes is when Winestate is most useful to the wine industry. It is where we can continue to act as a conduit between producer andtrade and consumer to keep wine exciting and desirable so that the best performers continue to thrive and survive. This role issomething we are quite proud of. For the consumer there are now great bargains to be had, but quality should be the key here, as some wineries have had tocut corners to survive and this is sometimes reflected in their wines. Other wineries have increased their prices to retain margins,and given current cost pressures this is to be expected. The good news is that in general wines from Australia and New Zealandcontinue to deliver at the highest level across all price points compared with their competition around the world. Our role at Winestate is to make sense of the plethora of wines out there and reduce the choices you need to make to choosewines that will suit your palate. We are not here to tell you what you like, merely to guide you towards a more manageable list ofchoices for you to try. Ultimately you are the best judge of your favourite wines. In this Annual issue of Winestate we recognise the broad brush best of the best wines judged four stars or higher over the past12 months. This involves tastings designated as new releases, regional or style (varietal, or varietal predominant wines). Over thisperiod it is possible that we might taste the same wine a couple of times in different tastings, sometimes with different results. Thisof course confirms that even with the best judges wine evaluation is an art rather than a science and context plays a major rolein this. Rather than this being a negative we believe that if a wine is recommended more than once by different panels it is worthseeking out. On that latter note, given that many small winemakers have very limited distribution, and if your local store or mail orderhouse has no supplies, the best answer is to contact the winery directly to find out where you can get the wine. It has been a great pleasure to bring you our numerous panel’s choices of their best wines recommended throughout the past12 months and trust that you have found some new favourites as well as confirming the quality of some of your existing favourites.Here’s cheers to finding some great wines in 2014 and may every glass you drink be a good one.Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherAnnual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs VISIONARY THINKING HISTORIAN and wine writer Dr David Dunstan has published A Vision For Wine, an illustrated history of the Viticultural Society of Victoria. The society is Australia’s oldest wine club, dating back to 1905, when it was founded by growers and merchants at a time the anti-alcohol lobby was extremely active. Wine was not widely consumed at the time and the industry was in decline. The Viticultural Society went on to become a luncheon club with a celebrated cellar and has been a vociferous defender of the wine industry. Dunstan’s book was officially launched in October.FLYING FOODIES SURVIVAL PLANQANTAS EpiQure has become of one of Australia’s most popular wine and food HOW does a family-owned winery survive the untimely death of a key memberclubs after just two years. With over 40,000 members, EpiQure was founded of its team? That was the challenge faced by mother and daughter, Lindato allow flyers access to wines they were served in business and first class, and Kim Tyrer, from Galafrey Wines in Mount Barker, Western Australia, whenbut has emerged into a social organisation with regular tastings and food and winery founder Ian Tyrer died of cancer in 2003. Aged 25, Kim’s part-time jobwine functions around the country. Many wines, including back vintages, are at Galafrey suddenly became full-time and she was thrust into the responsibleavailable exclusively for EpiQure members and can be purchased either with position of running a vineyard and winery that had previously been thecash or frequent flyer points. EpiQure events range from weekends at resorts responsibility of her father. Ian Tyrer was a pioneer and passionate promoterlike Emirates Wolgan Valley with guest chefs Neil Perry and Brett Graham to of the Mount Barker wine region and today the Galafrey team includes Kim’ssimple cheese and wine tastings. Champagne master classes and producer husband Nigel Rowe and their three-year-old son Jack. “When Dad died peoplelunches at wineries, including Shadowfax and Chapel Hill, are also on the kept asking us what we were going to do with Galafrey and were we going toitinerary, while wine and seafood tastings with John Susman of Fishtales sell,” Kim Tyrer recalls.“A lot of the questions centered on Ian’s dominance asfeature regularly. “Qantas frequent flyers love their food and wine, and we offer the winemaker and how we would move forward without him. “Over the pastthem experiences that are impossible to replicate,” says Jan Rundle, formerly five years we have redone our business plan and focused on what we want toof Hungerford Hill and now head of Qantas EpiQure. Chefs who have been do and how we want to do it,” Kim said. “We have realised what is importantinvolved include the likes of Heston Blumenthal, Rene Redzepi, Guillaume is the fact our grapes are dry grown, some of the oldest in the region and areBrahimi and Andrew McConnell. Membership costs $99 or 13,000 Qantas under family ownership. So we changed our label to reflect this which waspoints. For details of upcoming events visit www.qantasepiqure.com.au. something we hadn’t done with dad.”NEW DIRECTION WHAT CRISIS?GEELONG specialist pinot noir maker GLOBAL financial crisis? Australian wine exports in the doldrums? You wouldn’tBannockburn has released two new wines know it to look at Sirromet Wines at Mt Cotton which has just installed anand only one is a pinot. Bannockburn $800,000 Tuscan Terrace outdoor dining area. The installation comprises ade la terre pinot noir borders the stand-alone kitchen area to prepare Tuscan cuisine and outdoor dining for 300company’s 30-year-old flagship pinot people, including a 75M deck with views across to Stradbroke Island. “Thisblock, Serre, but winemaker Michael is a new style of casual, relaxed outdoor dining at Sirromet,” says executiveGlover promises a wine totally unlike chef, Andrew Mirosch. “Families and groups of all ages can enjoy wine andits neighbor with an inkier, more food in a picturesque setting with great views.”spicy expression. In keeping withGlover’s Burgundian ways, thevines are extremely close planted,10,000 vines to the hectare, andwinemaking is done in batcheswith one parcel 25 per cent wholebunches and the other 100 per cent whole bunches while the wine spendstime in both new barriques (12 months) followed by old (12 months). The2011 vintage is earthy, fine textured and firm in structure. De la terre’ssibling is the de la roche shiraz planted with cuttings taken from Best’sand Tahbilk, and is again closely spaced with 10,000 vines to the hectare.The wine was fermented wild and pressed into puncheons and maturedfor two years. The 2011 is vibrant cherry spice with chocolate and verymuch in reserve in its youth.12 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

briefsBANKING ON SUCCESS SUNNY DAYS AHEADSWINGING Bridge winemaker Tom Ward has partnered with Nick Bacon WINE industry commentators have looked on askance at the newfrom Vines to Venues to purchased one of Australia’s best-known wine bars, Lindeman’s Wines multi-million dollar marketing campaign based aroundthe Union Bank in Orange. The Union Bank was established in 2006 in the the phrase “It’s the sunshine that makes it”. Playing up Australia’s bountifulhistoric Union Bank building on the corner of Sale and Byng streets in the sunshine brought back memories of the “sunshine in a bottle” marketingheart of Orange. “We saw this as a fantastic opportunity,” said Ward. “When campaigns on the 1970s and ’80s. Along with koalas and girls on beachesthe business came up for sale we knew that there was so much that could the image is now seen as distinctly old fashioned. So why do it? “I thinkbe done with it to take it to a whole new level. The Union Bank Wine Bar the sunshine represents what we stand for at Lindeman’s, which is livingwill undergo minor upgrading, with most of the changes to the wine list and positively and embracing a life balance,” said Lindeman’s managingmenu. We are very supportive of the local regional wines and these will play director, Michelle Terry, in a recent daily newspaper interview about thea key role in the business. On top of this, we will showcase various other campaign. “When people reach for a glass of Lindeman’s then hopefullywines that support and complement the regional wines on offer.” The new the idea that Lindeman’s contains at least 1000 hours of sunshine in everymenu will comprise contemporary Australian fare, with a heavy focus on drop does translate.” The company plans to spend $1.6 million in Britainlocal, seasonal produce. The Union Bank building has been a major part of alone on the campaign.the history of Orange. Established in 1854, the building was the local branchof the Union Bank of Australia. From 1870 to 1883 it was home to the local CELEBRATING ST HUGOconstabulary before becoming a private school. Over subsequent years ithas been a boarding house, store, gallery and cafe. “The space is perfect THE St Hugo label has enjoyed something of a schizophrenic historyfor a wine bar,” said Ward. “With the intimate bar area, long communal table since being launched 30 years ago. Originally St Hugo was a stand-aloneand wood fire inside, and courtyard, it is a retreat for professionals and those label for the Orlando company, consisting of just one wine - a top-notchjust looking for something special in the way of a glass of wine and a meal.” Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon that has enjoyed a huge reputation.“Orange is where it’s happening in the way of cool-climate wines,” said co- The label changed to Jacobs Creek St Hugo and recently to simply Stowner Nick Bacon. “Having extensive experience in wine distribution, wine Hugo, with a small credit to original company founders G. Gramp andbuying and hospitality, I have seen the consistent improvement in the quality Sons. There are now four wines in the range rather than one – but theof Orange wines. The region is attracting new winemakers that will continue winemaking is in the hands of a direct descendant of the Gramp family,to build excitement. These are the regions that people are talking about, and the sixth generation to be involved, Sam Kurtz. Hugo Gramp, after whomthe wines consumers are looking to try.” The Union Bank is open seven days the St Hugo wines are named, became managing director of the familyfrom noon to 11pm. www.unionbank.com.au. business G. Gramp and Sons in 1920 when he was 25, and his visionary leadership saw the business progress to become a pillar of the AustralianUNDERSTANDING CLIMATE CHANGE wine industry. He was also responsible for the establishment of the main winery and cellar buildings that stand today. Kurtz, who has been makingA NEW research paper released in October on climate change and grape St Hugo wines for over 15 years, says he is inspired by history when hegrowing in Australia reveals what some wine makers are already experiencing, makes the wines. “When crafting each St Hugo wine, I am always mindfulthat higher temperatures are having the greatest effect on wine quality. to uphold the impeccable quality that Hugo Gramp would have expected,”A window into hotter and drier futures: phenological shifts and adaptive he says. The 30-year milestone for St Hugo was marked during the Savourpractices, the 297-page report is the result of a three-year study project funded at Bay of Fires), it has already attracted rave reviews. The range alsoby the Grape and Wine Research and Development Corporation (GWRDC), includes a 2013 riesling from the Clare Valley (made at Crabtree, with helpDepartment of Agriculture and state bodies. from Kerri Thompson), tempranillo, grenache and shiraz from McLarenCentral to the project and its results was the construction of open-top heating Vale, where winemaker Tim Geddes offers guidance and winemakingchambers that allowed scientists to manipulate temperatures under vineyard facilities. For details see www.ministryofclouds.com.au.conditions. Four grapes were used - chardonnay, semillon, shiraz and cabernetfranc - and field research was conducted in the Barossa Valley, Riverland andCoonawarra. The next part of the project will look at management practices inthe vineyard that may counter-balance the effects of climate change. Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsSALUTE TO THE PAST CELEBRATING 150 YEARSIT’S the new icon wine from Coonawarra winery family Rymill. “THE first cabernet vines came from (noted Victorian wine man) IanIt’s a cabernet sauvignon with a dash of cabernet franc and Hickinbotham,” explained Katharine de Pury of the grape that has comemerlot, and its name is The Surveyor. How it came to be called to be synonymous with the Yeringberg name. “We planted them in theThe Surveyor is a journey back into the family’s past and a rose garden.” So starts a long story about how the de Purys, Guill andtribute to one of Australia’s last great adventurers. Katharine, brought Yeringberg back to life as a major Yarra Valley wineThe wine is named after John Riddoch Rymill, grandson of producer of note in the 1960s after a long hiatus. Originally founded byJohn Riddoch, who founded Coonawarra in 1890. Rymill Guill de Pury’s grandfather, Guillaume, in 1863, the vineyard celebrateswas an Australian polar explorer, a surveyor and pilot. 150 years this year.In 1931 he was appointed to the British Arctic Air Route The cabernet sauvignon remained in the rose garden until some timeExpedition to Greenland and then set up his own team later when Hunter Valley wine man Max Lake visited Yeringberg andfor the British Graham Land Expedition (1934–37), which demanded – expletives deleted by Katharine de Pury – that they plant it.discovered a southern, permanently frozen channel, Cabernet’s blending mates that today contribute to the beautifully elegantlater named George VI Sound, in Antarctica. Rymill’s Yeringberg flagship came later. “I always thought blends were better thanteam sledded over 13,000km with a team of huskies and straight cabernets,” said Guill de Pury. “I used Haut Brion (a Bordeauxsailed more than 45,000km in the Penola, a research First Growth) as my model.” He was also influenced by another well-knownschooner. Generations on, and nearly 40 years since the French figure, the late Gerard Jaboulet, the Rhone Valley producer. “ ‘WhyRymill vineyards were established, the new wine pays aren’t you growing roussanne?’ ” de Pury said. “He told me ‘that’s thetribute to the grandfather of current Rymill wines boss quality part of the (Rhone Valley) appellation. Marsanne is just the filler’.”John Rymill. “It is a salute to our past that has excited us And so the Yeringberg white wine marsanne roussanne was born.for our future,” Rymill said after himself leading a familygroup to the Antarctic earlier this year. “The whole family is VALE BRUCE TOMLINSON - A MARGARET RIVER WINEdelighted and proud that we can release a wine that salutes the extraordinary PIONEERachievements of a boy from Penola who led the expedition that discoveredthe Antarctic Peninsula and so changed the map of the world.” While the new Bruce Tomlinson, one of Margaret River’s most colourful wine identitieswine is undoubtedly Coonawarra in style, made from vines that are 35 years or and early pioneers of the region passed away on Monday 2nd Decembermore old, it also has a French accent thanks to winemaker Sandrine Gimon, 2013 after a period of ill health. Originally an architect and town planningwho has made a huge impact since joining Rymill eight years ago. A wine consultant Bruce Tomlinson and his wife Jeannette sold their Perth homefrom an exceptional vintage that has spent 18 months in new and one-year-old in 1982 and made the transition to developing Lenton Brae, their vineyardFrench oak barriques, The Surveyor was officially released on December 1 property on Caves Road in the beautiful Wilyabrup Valley.and costs $80 a bottle. It can be ordered at www.rymill.com.au/thesurveyor. Bruce was a very active member in the Margaret River Wine Association from the mid 1980’s up until the mid 1990’s serving as President on twoSOLO EFFORT occasions. During his time in the Association Bruce was not only a key contributor but led the surrounding policy debate; such topics included:IN Australia, winemakers have tended to wine taxation; alcohol abuse in indigenous communities resulting fromview the malbec grape as primarily suited lowly taxed bulk wine; registering the geographic boundary for theto blending. Bordeaux-style blends, in Margaret River Wine region in 1996 becoming one of the first wineparticular, have benefited from the grape’s regions in Australia to do so; and development of an inaugural assuranceplumpness and rich colour but now certification scheme for all Western Australia wines assuring the qualitywinemakers like Kim Horton at Ferngrove to local wine consumers.in Western Australia’s Frankland River are In recognition of his tireless efforts on behalf of the Margaret River Wineready to take the grape solo, without the Association and its members Bruce was awarded Life Membership incompany of cabernet or cabernet franc. 2001 becoming only the second person at the time to be recognisedHosting a series of malbec masterclasses, with that honour.the young winemaker who has 3.6ha Association President Nigel Gallop said, “Bruce Tomlinson was a greatof malbec at the Ferngrove vineyard to believer in the potential of Margaret River and saw much of that beliefplay with has been urging drinkers to come true in his just over 30 years in the region particularly the marriageexperience the many sides of the grape. between semillon and sauvignon blanc which is now such an iconic“There is a leafy edge to the wine that is blend for the region.”more prominent in cooler vintages,” he After ‘retiring’ Bruce remained a keen participant in wine and associatedsays. Warm years bring out a bigger, regional issues still taking the time to occasionally call into the Associationricher side taking the grape into bolder territory: licorice, spice, dark plums. office and share his thoughts about many broad ranging topics includingThe emergence of small parcels of artisan Argentinian malbec as a staple on his beloved AFL team Hawthorn. Nigel Gallop said, “On behalf of therestaurant lists is also helping the Australian malbec cause. “We can all ride Association and all of its members our thoughts are with the Tomlinsonoff each other’s success,” says Horton. family at this difficult time.”14 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

EASY FIX briefsSTUART Knox, sommelier and owner of Sydney PERFECT PARTNERSwine industry favourite Fix St James, has switcheddirection with a new focus on wine at his city JACOB’S Creek has launched a new wine designed specifically to partnerestablishment. The new-look Fix will have a bar Japanese food – and unveiled Wah to its guests during Adelaide’s Savoursection with high tables in the lower section, where celebrations. The white blend was created in partnership with Mamoruguests can enjoy wines by the glass with small-plate Sugiyama, a Japanese sushi chef and owner of Michelin-starred Tokyo sushidishes. “I realised, after all these years of owning restaurant Ginza Sushi Kou. The new product has been blended using grapesand making Fix what it is, I really want it to be a wine from the Adelaide Hills to complement foods using dashi or soy sauce – abovebar,” Knox says. “Back in 2006 there wasn’t an option all sushi – says Jacob’s Creek winemaker Rebekah Richardson, who workedto be a wine bar. I’ve been restaurateuring all this with Sugiyama on the wine. “Sugiyama-san taught us that the sushi diningtime with a heavy wine focus but I’m keen to have experience is as much about taste – in terms of the balance of sweet, sourmore flexibility to do what I want to do.” Fix St James and salty – as it is all about the texture of the food,” she added. She said theclosed in early October for the changes to take place new wine was created with “the necessary texture and palate weight requiredand Knox now promises “more winey moments with to match the oily richness of tuna and salmon”. The wine is aimed, initially atsamples, winemakers, random tastings and frivolity least, at the Japanese market.based around the joys of fermented grape juice”.See www.fixstjames.com.au/AN AUSTRALIAN EXPERIENCE STAY OVERSYDNEY’S newest hotel, the vibrant 1888 in Pyrmont, has opened with a TWO-hatted Biota Dining in the New South Wales Southern Highlandspolicy of serving 100 per cent Australian wines, beers, ciders and spirits now offers wine and food lovers on-site accommodation. Biota Dining hasGeneral manager Roberto Russo and food and beverage supervisor Patrick opened 13 rooms on its beautiful grounds to celebrate winning Best RegionalRodgers have devised the list to ensure guests get an authentic Australian Restaurant and Regional Wine List of the Year at the 2014 Sydney Morningexperience. The list includes beers from artisan brewers such as Murray’s Herald Good Food Guide Awards. All 13 Scandinavian-style rooms have queenBrewery in Port Stephens and Two Metre Tall in Tasmania, with wines from or king beds, modern bathrooms and facilities, and outlooks over the Biotaboutique producers, including Narkoojee from Gippsland, Soumah in the Dining grounds and gardens. Chef and owner James Viles embraces locallyYarra Valley and Derwent Estate in Tasmania, while West Winds from Margaret sourced produce and technique-driven food, and uses produce from his largeRiver and Lark Distillery from Hobart feature heavily on the spirits list at the vegetable and herb garden and a yabby pond. “Since we started Biota Dining1888 Eatery and Bar. 1888 is the latest venture in the 8Hotels group. Built two years ago our vision was to make it the ultimate destination for diners whoin an old wool store constructed in 1888 that has undergone a $30 million want a truly regional, sustainable experience,” said Viles. “We can now offerdevelopment over the last two years, it is emerging as a luxury property that our diners a comfortable, stylish place to rest right next to the restaurant andoffers 90 rooms, including a rooftop penthouse overlooking the city. The they can enjoy the grounds, join us for lunch or dinner, come to our weekendaesthetic of the hotel is distinctly Australian, blending the natural elements of markets, and experience the Southern Highlands beauty and diversity.” Biotareclaimed iron bark beams, concrete, stone and bronze with exposed brick Dining and Rooms in Bowral has rates starting from $110 a night twin sharewalls and a five-storey, light-filled internal atrium. High ceilings and huge and there is a range of packages offered. See www.biotadining.com.period windows reflect the heritage history and overall feel of the building.The property is just footsteps away from the city, the Convention Centre,Darling Harbour, the Entertainment Centre and the business districts ofPyrmont and Ultimo, and rooms start from $139. Phone (02) 8586 1888 orvisit www.1888hotel.com.au. Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsBUSINESS SENSE PICK OF THE BUNCHFAMILY-owned Barossa Valley OENOLOGIST Gary Baldwin hasproducer Bethany received been named as the new chiefnational publicity recently when winemaker for Handpicked Wines,it was featured on Channel Nine’s an Australian-based wine producerand Imparja’s Business Agenda with a portfolio that features overSA. The five-part series provided 25 wines from five countries anda behind-the-scenes look into 12 globally recognised fine winesuccessful South Australian regions. Owned by the Dong family,businesses and their ties with Handpicked Wines owns vineyardsAsia. Bethany was among the in the Barossa and Yarra valleysbusinesses chosen to feature in and on the Mornington Peninsula.an episode of its own because Where it doesn’t own vineyards,of its success in selling its wines fruit is sourced through long-termin China, Japan, Hong Kong and partnerships with respected growersTaiwan. The 30-minute episode from Bordeaux to the Barossa, fromfollowed winery director Geoff Margaret River to Champagne.Schrapel on a recent promotional trip to Asia and explored his Managing director William Dong saidrelationships with the wine trade and his ambitions in this key market. Baldwin’s appointment followed aThe episode also took viewers on a journey into the history of Bethany spell as a consultant assisting withWines and featured footage of the historic cellar door, the winery as well Handpicked’s vineyard acquisitionsas views of the Schrapel family vineyards and the Barossa. in the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula and Barossa Valley. “Gary’s standing in the wine industry, his knowledge and experience, together with his networks will help us reach the quality we aspire to,” Dong said. Baldwin’s career as a winemaker, consultant and show judge spans more than 40 years and he will oversee winemaking for Handpicked Wines’ Australian and international portfolios as well as seeking out new regions. “It is exciting for me to be involved with a growing global company like Handpicked, where I can use all my experience and work on an international scale,” Baldwin said. Handpicked Wines is based in Sydney and has offices in Hong Kong, Thailand, Singapore, Italy and China.CHANGING OF THE GUARD AT MITCHELTON GOURMET DESTINATIONThere has been a changing of the guard at Mitchelton with the appointment of NORFOLK Island is emerging as an unlikely gourmet destination – producingTravis Clydesdale becoming the new General Manager of Mitchelton Wines. its own wines and liqueurs and now boasts its first five-star accommodation.He will also continue on as the chief winemaker a role he has undertaken The Tin Sheds is a collection of apartments so funky that each comes withsince 2009. its own colour-coded Fiat 500 convertible. The spacious and contemporaryTravis knows the region and its wines well. He and his three brothers worked apartments are surrounded by beautifully landscaped private courtyards andschool holidays on the bottling line and his father Mark was for more than 28 equipped with all mod cons. There is an on-site plunge pool, massage andyears the winery’s cellar manager. sauna facility, and gym - even a Nespresso machine in each villa. Just downThe winery, located on the banks of the Goulburn River in Nagambie, has the road, check out Minibar, Norfolk’s funkiest bar, based on an eclectic Berlinrecently undergone a restoration and refurbishment programme that included style-bar built and furnished from Norfolk found objects. It’s a great spot forupgrading the restaurant and cellar door, outdoor dining areas and its new a late-night cocktail. Discovered by Captain Cook in 1774 after first beingGoulburn Explorer river boat has just been launched. settled by Polynesians, Norfolk Island is a small, scenically beautiful islandFormer General Manager John Beresford has moved to the recently formed located in the Pacific Ocean between Australia and New Zealand. RodrickNagambie Development Company, formed by the Ryan family to oversee McAlpine, at Two Chimneys Winery, is about to release his first wines madethe development of a number of commercial properties they have acquired using local grapes; until his vines matured he had been using fruit from thein Nagambie. mainland. Two Chimneys offers tastings and serves excellent local platters.John had been at Mitchelton since 1996 as a viticulturist and in 2007 became Also check out the tasting rooms at Norfolk Island Liqueurs, where local fruitsthe site manager, a role that he has held until his new appointment. are used in products made in a German still, including macadamia nut, guavaMitchelton’s managing director Andrew Ryan is excited by the opportunity and banana liqueurs, all beautifully presented, and the island also has severalpresented to both John and Travis. “John is the right man to help bring a excellent restaurants.number of our new projects to life and Travis is on track to take Mitchelton to For details visit www.norfolkisland.com.au. Air New Zealand flies directonce again becoming a significant Victorian wine producer as well as a strong to Norfolk Island twice a week from Sydney and Brisbane. To book visitregional tourist destination.” he said. www.airnewzealand.com.au.16 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

WINE TOUR OF FRANCE 13 September - 1 October 2014 A wine lover’s dream! Two wonderful weeks with Winestate founder and Editor/Publisher, Peter Simic, exploring the greatwine regions of France, including Champagne, Burgundy, Rhone Valley, Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, and Bordeaux. Beginning in Paris and ending in Paris it will be a most memorable journey.

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW CRUNCH TIME FOR NEW CLASSIFICATIONCRU Bourgeois status of left bank, red Bordeaux hard and green flavours. Indeed, François to Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein. Thiswines is generally accepted as ranking just Nony, vice president of the Alliance des Crus can get a bit confusing because it’s the sugarbelow those of the 1855 classification, possibly Bourgeois du Médoc, and owner of left bank concentration in the grape juice that is ranked,even providing a sometimes surprisingly property Château Caronne Ste Gemme said “the not in the wine, so, a Spatlese trocken (dry),affordable glimpse of the lower and some wines are showing up to 30 per cent less tannin is drier with more alcohol than a Spatlesemiddle rungs of the ladder that is the Bordeaux than in the 2010 vintage.” This was certainly without the accompanying trocken on the label.quality hierarchy. evident at a large scale tasting announcing the Added to which, the German “dry” is typically release of the 2011 cru bourgeois award. a tad less dry than wines from warmer climes. The term cru bourgeois to describe a certain Dryness for labelling in the European Union islevel of wine had been around for a long time While expectations for the vintage were rightly linked to acidity, which is typically higher inbefore the 1855 classification was created. not as high as for the 2010 or 2009 vintages, such a cool climate, and thus a bit more sugarIt has existed in various formats, the current the wines appear to have been well-received, may accompany the acidity to better balanceincarnation being an independently assessed, both by the trade in Bordeaux and in destination the wine.awarded and audited standard. From the 2008 markets. The wines are typically fresh, withvintage, cru bourgeois has been an annual moderate tannins and new oak, mostly held Anyway the VDP folk have created a land-award of status for any of the eight left bank in check. These wines are clearly not for long based - terroir? - classification, rather thancommunes that care to apply for it. It is assessed ageing, with some ready to drink even at this the sugar-ripeness based one, directly linkingand granted two years after the vintage. stage, others needing a little short-term ageing. potential quality with specific vineyard site. Frédérique Dutheillet de Lamothe, director of Towards the end of 2013, the fourth annual the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc the There are four levels to this terroir pyramid:awarding of cru bourgeois status to left bank “crus bourgeois are the good surprise of the entry-level gutswein at the bottom, then ortsweinred Bordeaux wines was announced - for new term. I heard this several times (in London). (a bit like “villages” wine), erste lage (~ premierthe 2011 vintage. This was almost destined And in Bordeaux, we never had so many brokers cru) and finally grosse lage (~ grand cru) at theto be a crunch vintage for the new guise of very top. In addition to the quality hierarchy designation, wines may be dry - labelled trockenThe 2011s are clearly not for long ageing, with some ready to - or with sweetness, in which case they aredrink even at this stage, others needing a little short-term ageing. labelled according to Kabinett, Spatlese etc.cru bourgeois. When the new system was and merchants as we did this year. I heard If this isn’t already complicated, confusionannounced - in 2010 for the 2008 vintage - many times that the merchants are very happy for language-luddites such as myself is easilyexpectations were not excessive, either in terms with quality.” entered into with the similarity of the VDP topof vintage quality or of the new system, such quality “grosse lage” (two “s”s, two words)had been the period in the wilderness, as it In total, 256 wines from the 2011 vintage were with “grosslage” (two “s”s, one word). Thewere. The subsequent two years, and vintages awarded cru bourgeois status, compared to latter is the rather all-encompassing “large- 2009 and 2010 - were quite tasty, so the new 260 from the 2010 vintage. The production from site”, average size around 600ha, a collectivesystem was unlikely to have too many critics these properties accounts for about 30 per cent mass of lots of individual vineyard sites. Orfor such outstanding quality vintages. This of Medoc production, or some 28 million bottles effectively the opposite of what the VDP’smay have given the new cru bourgeois system of wine, compared to 32 million bottles from the “grosse lage” defines - the very pinnacle ofa fortuitous bedding-in period, where it could 2010 vintage. small scale site specificity.quietly work at establishing both internal andexternal credibility. GERMANY MOVES TO A NEW Confusion notwithstanding, the VDP are a SYSTEM great guide concentrating on product quality But the 2011 vintage is a different story. that links grapes to ground. Its heritage is long-Growing conditions were tricky and challenging. Sticking with classifications, but moving to standing, coming from Prussian maps of theUnlike 2009 and 2010, quality was invariably a Germany, the association of some 200 of 1800s which identified tax bands based on themixed picture. The 2011 vintage, surely, would the country’s “finest wine estates”, the VDP, quality of wine coming from different regions.put to the test the cru bourgeois awarding announced a new classification, effectiveassessment. Retaining freshness tends not to from the 2012 vintage. Germany’s traditional The simple bit for neophytes is probably to lookhave been too much of an issue, but gentle, wine category pyramid is based on sugar on the capsule for a stylised eagle with a settannin management was key, to avoid extracting ripeness levels, moving from Kabinett, up, snooker ball bunch of grapes on its chest. through Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese If the bottle has a stylised eagle, and it says “grosse lage”, the wine is top. An expensive price tag might be another clue that it’s not from a “grosslage”.18 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

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winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY ITALIAN ENIGMA MAKING INROADSNEBBIOLO is often as appealing as an abstract predicate earlier harvesting which gives different oak barrels called “botti” sometimes made out ofpainting. Probably the majority of wine drinkers fruit characters; earlier harvest also results in chestnut, or modern small French oak barriques.don’t get it. It’s definitely not a mainstream higher acidity and then different winemaking Italy went through the “Barolo Wars” where thegrape variety. In a glass it can look oxidised processes. And the reverse may apply in Barolo. barrique-driven modernists clashed with “botti”and decidedly pale. The fruit aromas can have It comes down to the winemaking as well. The traditionalists. Those days are now in the past.gone AWOL and it may be more about earth Serralunga winemaker endeavouring to make a “What I see happening now is a ‘coming into theand flavours that conjure up your local road long-living structured wine; the Barolo producer middle’ by both camps.” comments Trembath.works rather than a fruit basket. The tannins can may be attempting to produce a Barolo designed “The traditionalists are using more tech knowhow,be substantial but the body is light. In short it’s for younger consumption. It’s not as simple as just but selectively, making better, cleaner wine, ouran enigma. saying it’s the soil.” Marcarini Barolo would be a good example of this. The modernists are incorporating some of the However, we have over 100 producers in Back home you find pockets of nebbiolo older concepts as well, with Conterno Fantino nowAustralia and most hatted restaurants will dispersed around Australia with the King Valley using medium and larger sized botti, for example.”have a Barolo or two on their list. The origin of and Adelaide Hills two notable regions. But you Back in Australia, Henschke reckons “getting thecommercial vine plantings in Australia is shrouded also find winemakers celebrating their Italian flavour maturity, tannin and acid balance rightin a bit of mystery. Some claim it was Carlo heritage by planting it such as Joe Grilli at Primo is an issue when making the wine. We only useCorino who brought cuttings back from Italy in Estate in McLaren Vale. Daniel Zuzolo is Grilli’s older French oak hogsheads for 12 to 18 months1976 and planted them at Montrose Estate in winemaker and comments on the challenges of to allow the fruit to dominate and oak to play aMudgee. Around the same time, Dr Edgar Riek growing nebbiolo. “It’s extremely site specific. micro-oxygenation role. Skin contact is extendedat Lake George in the Canberra District planted If the site is too cold and lacks airflow it will not over 21-plus days.”cuttings from an imported University of California be able to ripen sufficiently and late winter/earlyDavis clone. But whoever it was, they were not spring frosts can cause severe damage to new Drinking nebbiolo can be a challenge. Comparedcommercially successful and the resulting fruit shoots. Too warm a climate and the resulting wine to say cabernet sauvignon it has only half thewas often blended away. It’s taken us over a loses its delicacy and tannin profile that makes deeply coloured anthocyanin malvidin, but is loaded up with the more orange spectrumThe consensus of opinion is that decanting is always necessary. peonidin, which explains the light and sometimes off-putting orange/garnet colour. It displaysquarter of a century to work out nebbiolo, but we nebbiolo so recognisable.” Due to its habit to somewhat lightness in body but with noticeableare finally making some serious wines. overcrop, thinning shoots or fruit is necessary. tannins and acidity. Classic aromas are floral, Picking has to be done by hand. violet, rose and sometimes the more traditionalist The ancestral home of nebbiolo is the Barolo earthy “tar”. “The contrast between its rose petal/region of Piedmont, in north western Italy. The In the vineyard, it requires a long growing season floral aromas and its tarry/chewy/tannic mouthfeelvines are planted in the Langhe Hills around the with moderate temperatures and is one of the first is why nebbiolo is such a magical variety,”town of Alba. They hug the hillsides that have to bud but last to ripen. Nebbiolo is possibly a comments Zuzolo. Tannin levels vary considerablya south-westerly aspect to expose the vines biennial cropping variety, in other words, it crops on Australian wines. For example, Brian Freeman’sto as much sunlight as possible. There are a heavy one year and light the other. With such a Altura Vineyard Nebbiolo is more supple andnumber of sub-regions. La Morra and Barolo fickle variety the choice of clones is important. softer compared with the nebbiolo from Primoare on crumbly limestone and clay Tortonian Clones 230 and 111 seem the most sought after. Estate. One of the most Barolo-like Australianmarls, and produce softer, aromatic and quicker Clone 230 was originally from Barbaresco, while nebbiolo is Protero, made in the Adelaide Hills,ageing wines. Whereas Serralunga d’Alba and 111 originates from La Morra. “230 is darker and it displays classic rose petal with a silk palateMonforte d’Alba are on Helvetian marl with a coloured and has more classic rosehip, savoury but a dry, tannic finish.higher proportion of compressed sandstone characters with assertive tannins. 111, called theand iron which displays more power, structure, ‘rose clone’ is lighter but quite fragrant, savoury One final note. The consensus of opinion istannins and longevity. Castiglione sits between with assertive tannins,” comments Eden Valley that decanting is always necessary. Proterothese two regions and exhibits more harmony. winemaker Stephen Henschke. A “blend of both owners Rosemary and Frank Baldasso recommendBut it’s a bit over simplistic to say the soil results characteristics works well” for his Henschke The three or so hours of breathing time before drinking.in the different styles. Leading Italian importer Rose Grower Nebbiolo. Double decanting wouldn’t go amiss. ThisMichael Trembath knows a bit about Barolo. applies to the wines of Piedmont as well as our“Poorer Helvetian soils hold less water and may Winemaking follows the usual guidelines with Australian drops. maturation in Italy either using traditional large20 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

42 DEGREES SOUTH A. RETIEF A.T. RICHARDSON ALKOOMI ALTA AMBERLEY AMELIA PARK ANGAS PLAINS ANGOVEANGUS THE BULL ANNIE’S LANE ARAMIS ARMCHAIR CRITIC ARRIVO ARROWFIELD ARTWINE ASCELLA PUREASHBROOK ASHTON HILLS B3 BADGER’S BROOK BAILLIEU BALGOWNIE BALLAST STONE BANROCK STATIONBAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE BARWANG BARWICK BATHE BATTELY BATTLE OF BOSWORTH BAY OF FIRES BELGRAVIABELLARMINE BEN POTTS BERESFORD BERTON BEST’S BIRD IN HAND BISCAY BLACKBILLY BLEASDALE BLUEPYRENEES BLUE TONGUE BOLD HEARTS BOTOBOLAR BOWEN ESTATE BRAND’S LAIRA BREAM CREEK BREATHINGSPACE BRESS BRINDABELLA HILLS BROKENWOOD BROOKLAND VALLEY BROTHERS IN ARMS BROWN BROTHERSBROWNS OF PADTHAWAY BUNKERS BUTLER CREST BY FARR BYRNE CALEDONIA AUSTRALIS CAMPBELLS CANONBAHBRIDGE CAPE BARREN CAPE BERNIER CAPE JAFFA CAPE MENTELLE CAPE NATURALISTE CAPEL SOUND CAPELVALE CAPERCAILLIE CASTELLI ESTATE CASTLE ROCK ESTATE CATCH BILLY CATCHING THIEVES CHAIN OF PONDSCHALICE BRIDGE CHALK HILL CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD CHAPEL HILL CHARLES CIMICKY CHRISMONT CLARENDONHILLS CLAYMORE CLEMENS HILL CLOS CLARE CLOVER HILL COAL VALLEY COLDSTREAM HILLS COOBARA COOKSLOT CORAL SEA CORIOLE CORK CUTTERS CULLEN CUMULUS CURLEWIS CUTTAWAY HILL D’ARENBERG DAL ZOTTODALWHINNIE DANDELION DAOSA DAVID HOOK DE BORTOLI DE IULIIS DEAKIN DEEP WOODS DELATITE DERWENTDESTINATIONS DEVIATION ROAD DEVIL’S LAIR DEXTER DIAMOND VALLEY DOGRIDGE DOMAIN DAY DOMAINE ADOMAINE CHANDON DOMAINES TATIARRA DOWIE DOOLE DUNSBOROUGH HILLS DUTSCHKE EAGLE VALE EDENMAEEDWARDS ELDERTON ELDRIDGE ESTATE ELMSLIE ENOOMAH BORE EPEROSA EVANS & TATE EYRE CREEK FABERVINEYARD FAIRBANK FARR RISING FEATHERTOP FERNGROVE FIFTH LEG FIRST DROP FIVE GEESE FLAMETREEFLINTS OF COONAWARRA FORESTER ESTATE FORMBY & ADAMS FOUR SISTERS FOUR WINDS FRAMINGHAM FRASERGALLOP FREYCINET FROGMORE CREEK FUDDLING CUP GALLI ESTATE GARDNERS GROUND GARFISH GEMTREEGEOFF HARDY GEOFF MERRILL GEOFF WEAVER GIPSIE JACK GLAETZER GLAETZER-DIXON FAMILY GLEN ELDONSearchGLENGUIN ESTATE GOATY HILL GORDON HILLS GOUNDREY GRANT BURGE GROSSET GUMPARA HANDPICKEDHAPPS AND THREE HILLS HARDYS HAREWOOD ESTATE HARVEY RIVER BRIDGE ESTATE HEARTLAND HEATHCOTEESTATE HEATHCOTE WINERY HEGGIES HENKELL HENLEY HILL HENRY’S DRIVE HENSCHKE HESKETH HEWITSONHIGHER PLANE HILL SMITH HITHER & YON HOLM OAK HOUGHTON HOUSE OF ARRAS HOWLING WOLVES HUGHHAMILTON HUGO INGOLDBY IRON POT BAY IRVINE J & J VINEYARDS JACK RUSSELL JAMES ESTATE JANSZ JASPERAUSTRALIA’SHILL JIM BARRY JOHN DUVAL JONES ROAD JOSEF CHROMY JUNIPER ESTATE KAESLER KAKABA KANGARILLA ROADKARRIBINDI KATNOOK KELLERMEISTER KILIKANOON KILLARA ESTATE KILLERBY KINGSTON ESTATE KINLOCHKNAPPSTEIN KNEE DEEP KOONOWLA KOOYONG KREGLINGER KURTZ FAMILY LA LINEA LA PLEIADE LA VIE LACACHELAKE BREEZE LAKE HOUSE LAMBLOCH LANGMEIL LARK HILL LARRY CHERUBINO LAST HORIZON LEASINGHAMLECONFIELD LEEUWIN LENGS & COOTER LEO BURING LERIDA ESTATE LIGHT’S VIEW LINDEMANS LOGAN LONELYLARGESTVINEYARD LONGVIEW LOOSE LEAF MANDALAY ROAD MARCHAND & BURCH MARGAN MASSENA MASSONI MATISONMAXIMUS MAXWELL MCWILLIAM’S MEEREA PARK MERUM ESTATE MESH MIHI CREEK MILES FROM NOWHEREMITCHELL MITCHELTON MITOLO MOJO MOLLYDOOKER MONTROSE MOONBARK ESTATE MOONDAH BROOKMOOTHI ESTATE MOPPITY MORGAN PENDARI MOSS WOOD MOTORHEAD MOUNT CAMEL RIDGE MOUNT HORROCKSWINE SITE!MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN MOUNT PLEASANT MOUNTADAM MR MICK MT BUFF MUNARI NASHWAUK NIGHT HARVESTNINTH ISLAND NORFOLK RISE NUGAN O’LEARY WALKER OAKOVER OAKRIDGE OATLEY OCEAN EIGHT OCEANGROVE ODDFELLOWS OLIVER’S TARANGA OMNI OXFORD LANDING PADTHAWAY ESTATE PANORAMA PARADIGMHILL PARINGA ESTATE PARKER COONAWARRA PARRI ESTATE PARTISAN PAUL CONTI PAXTON PEEL ESTATEPENFOLDS PENLEY PENNA LANE PENNY’S HILL PEPPER TREE PEPPERJACK PETALUMA PETER LEHMANN PEWSEYVALE PHILIP SHAW PICARDY PICARUS PIERRO PIG IN THE HOUSE PIKE & JOYCE PIKES PIMPERNEL PIPERS BROOKPIRIE PIRRAMIMMA PIZZINI PLANTAGENET PORT PHILLIP ESTATE PRANCING HORSE PREVELI PRIMO PRINTHIEPROTERO PROVENANCE PUNT ROAD PUPPETEER PURE CLARE PURE VISION PURPLE HANDS PYRENEES RIDGEQUARISA QUATTRO MANO RADFORD RALPH FOWLER RAVEN PARK RAVENSWORTH RED HILL ESTATE REDBANKREDGATE RESCHKE RINGBOLT RIPOSTE RISE VINEYARDS RIVERPINES ROCHFORD ROCKBARE ROLF BINDERRUMBALL RYMILL SALINGER SALITAGE SALOMON SALTRAM SANDALFORD SCHILD ESTATE SCHUBERT ESTATESCHWARZ WINE CO SCORPO SEABROOK SEE SAW SEPPELT SETANTA SEVENHILL SEVILLE ESTATE SHAW & SMITHSHEER DROP SHELMERDINE SHOWBLOCK SINGLE STEP SISTER’S RUN SIX FOOT SIX SKILLOGALEE SMITH & HOOPERSONS OF EDEN SOUL GROWERS SPRING VALE SQUITCHY LANE ST HALLETT ST HUBERTS ST JOHNS ROAD STANTON& KILLEEN STAR LANE STEELS GATE STEFANO LUBIANA STELLA BELLA STEP X STEP STICKS STOCKMANS RIDGESTONEFISH STONEY STONIER STRINGY BRAE OF SEVENHILL SUNNYCLIFF SUTTON GRANGE SWINGS & ROUNDABOUTST’GALLANT TAHBILK TALTARNI TAMAR RIDGE TAMBURLAINE TAR & ROSES TARRAWARRA TATACHILLA TAYLORSTEMPLE BRUER TERRA FELIX TERRAMORE TERRE A TERRE TEUSNER THE BLACK CHOOK THE HEDONIST THE LANEVINEYARD THE LITTLE WINE CO. THE OLD FAITHFUL THOMAS THOMPSON ESTATE THORN-CLARKE TILBROOKESTATE TIM ADAMS TIM GRAMP TIM SMITH TIN SHED TORBRECK TOWER ESTATE TRUST TSCHARKE TULLOCHTURKEY FLAT TURNERS CROSSING TWO EIGHTS TWO HANDS TWO ITALIAN BOYS TYRRELL’S UMAMU VASSE FELIXVINACEOUS WATER WHEEL WATERSHED WESTERN RANGE WHINSTONE WILD OATS WILLOW CREEK WILLUNGA 100WINDOWRIE WINE & TRUFFLE CO. WINTER CREEK WIRRA WIRRA WISE WITCHES FALLS WITCHMOUNT WOLF BLASSWOODLANDS WOODSIDE VALLEY WOODSTOCK XABREGAS XANADU YABBY LAKE YALUMBA YANGARRA YARRA BURNYARRALOCH YELLAND & PAPPS YERING STATION YERINGBERG ZEMA ZEPPELIN ZILZIE ZINFUL ZONTE’S FOOTSTEP Search over 85,000 wines...

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGEXPLORING THE SPIRIT WORLD A HAUNTING EXPERIENCEMAYBE interviewing Dan Aykroyd and the news that in the city to blot out the morbid thought with a stein of the so-called “Motel of Death”, where severalGhostbusters III might become a reality 30 years after or three. Go to munichwalks.com celebrities met untimely ends. If you can’t sleep, headthe last installment of the franchise was released was for the Downtown Cocktail Room, aka “the place thatan inspiration, or perhaps it’s just me. The first ghost The Endless Night Vampire Ball of Paris has become brought real cocktails back to downtown” for a Don’ttour I signed up for was in York which set off from a much-anticipated in the French capital. Mysteries Fig With Me cocktail (apple brandy, fig, oranges andThe Shambles, once renowned for the blood-stained of Paris (mysteriesofparis.com) is a tour company molasses) to soothe your nerves.shelves of its butcher shops, and I’ve been hooked that helps to organise the fake blood-drenchedever since. Almost every major city in the world now event and also conducts ghost tours year-round. Marie Laveau, the voodoo queen, Lestat, the centralboasts ghost tours that trawl through its grim and Owner Sebastiaan Hoyt founded the company a few figure in Anne Rice’s The Vampire Chronicles andgrisly past and I’ve sampled more than a few. years ago because there were no real ghost walks the ghosts of the beautiful quadroon mistresses who of Paris amid the dense scrum of Da Vinci Code and once lived in the fancy houses of the French Quarter Eastern European folk tales are full of hobgoblins Catacombs tours on offer. are just some of the spectral figures that go bump inand witches that date back to pre-Christian times, the night on the Ghost and Vampire Tour from Frenchso the spirit world has particular resonance in You won’t encounter a ghostly crowd of be-wigged Quarter Phantoms (frenchquarterphantoms.com).countries such as the Czech Republic. McGee’s aristos moaning about their one-off meeting with There’s also a Cemetery Tour where you can stand(mcgeesghosttours.com) is run by an American Madame La Guillotine, though. Instead, there are before the elaborate grave of Marie Laveau and theghost-buster and his Czech-born wife, and offers four plenty of potential sightings of more modern wraiths future resting place ear-marked for Oscar-winningghost tours of Prague year-round. The most popular such as the woman who had an affair with a German actor, Nicholas Cage.is Ghosts and Legends of Old Town but there’s plenty officer during World War II and the so-called Vampire of Paris, a serial killer who terrorised the city in the If that’s not enough to send chills down your spine, the True Crime Tour revisits the exploits of TheAnd the Ghostly Underground Tour weaves through the sort of Axeman, one of America’s early serial killers, and thecobweb-strewn chambers and gloomy passageways that are murder site of Kate Townsend, the famous Storyvillethe stuff of childhood nightmares. brothel owner who was killed in her own boudoir. Keep up the zombie apocalypse mood with a visitof takers for the Ghost Boat Tour, Prague Castle After 1990s. For those who want a tangible memento of to Snake and Jake’s Christmas Club Lounge, anDark and Underground Walk by Lamplight, where the experience, Hoyt is also a master fangsmith and ultimate dive visited by George Clooney and Anthonyyou can quaff beer in the traditional bars frequented makes custom fangs to order as a souvenir to take Bourdain. A shack that looks like it’s on the point ofby the city’s medieval executioners after a hard day’s home. Or, leave them in and head for Le Coq near collapse and illuminated year-round by Christmaswork at the chopping block. Republique, one of the hottest new bars in town, tree lights, the signature drink is the Possum Drop - a where the cocktails are made from “forgotten” French shot of Jagermeister in a pint of Schlitz beer. Germany and England were the main centres liqueurs and “secret lab ingredients”.of the witch-hunting epidemic that swept Europe Anyone with a Scottish grandmother knows thatfrom the Middle Ages to the 17th century. And the You would think that Salem in Massachusetts, the “second sight” is a widespread gift in Scotland.Munich Ghost Tour points out many of the sites where famous for its witch trials, would have a tour that And there’s plenty to catch your inner eye whenhundreds of poor women (and children and men, clinched the accolade of top ghost tour in America. you participate in one or all of the five ghost tourstoo) met their grisly ends. Voted the best ghost tour But that honour belongs to Haunted Vegas Tours run by Mercat Tours (mercattours.com) - the onlyin Germany, you follow a night watchman swinging (hauntedvegastours.com). It’s tempting to think that tour company in Edinburgh with a five-star scarea lantern through the narrow laneways and haunted Elvis fans swayed the vote but the amazing guides factor rating.squares of the Old Town to hear tales of gruesome are responsible for the number-one rating. Robert,murders, bloody executions and unsolved mysteries Jac and Levi are all seasoned entertainers, of course, Gary Goldthorpe, aka the Ghost Creeper, has beenthat “no other tour dare tell”. To punch home the and Jac is also the only ghost tour guide in the US leading groups of tourists through York for 17 yearsmessage that life is fleeting, the tour starts in the who is also a trained mortician and embalmer. and his tour is widely acknowledged as the bestMarienplatz under the Glockenspiel to witness the on offer. (insideyorks.co.uk/ghostdetective). Kittedfamous figures jerking along in the Schalffertanz The tour is pretty pricy but it’s worth it to visit a large out in Dickensian garb, Goldthorpe is also one of(cooper’s dance) - first choreographed to celebrate slice of the 21 places where paranormal activity has the few actors anywhere to hold a Master’s degreethe end of a devastating plague in the early 16th been officially documented in Las Vegas. Elvis is a in science, which lends a scholarly air of inquiry tocentury. Then pop downstairs to the Ratskeller am major pull but gangster Bugsy Siegel, Liberace and the proceedings. To be honest, I didn’t want theMarienplatz, one of the most authentic beer cellars comedian Red Foxx are among the famous names 75-minute tour to end because the suspense didn’t that have never left town, either. There’s a drive-by let up for a second. York at night is as spectacular as it is by day but as Goldthorpe points out - Many of its sites, even on the sunniest of days, will be forever in the shade.22 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

Sensitive cargo.We have a nose for this.Linking Australia and New Zealand with all coasts of North and South America; the Caribbean,Northern Europe and the Mediterranean; Asia; India; Pakistan; Australasia and the Pacific Islands.No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKEL ANDRE L SIMON BACK IN SYDNEYFRENCH-born octogenarian Andre Simon was (the other two “Musketeers”), and Douglas In between these two notable meals Simon wasback from his hectic trip to the Hunter Valley at Lamb. The meal was impressive, beginning with kept busy attending two dinners and a lunch. Onwhat he called his Sydney home, the Belvedere paté maison, followed by souffle de Homard December 30, Ray Kidd, Lindeman’s GeneralHotel, on the evening of December 23. He noted Plaza Athenee, then came truite d’Australie with Manager, invited Simon and McGregor to a coldwith much relief that he had Christmas Eve, sauce verte, followed by pigeonneaux rotis with lunch. This was preceded by a tasting of someChristmas Day, Boxing Day, and up to December sauce Perigourdine. Cheese, fruit and coffee young Lindeman’s wines. As usual, the tactful30 “without any taxing engagement”. The break rounded out the repast. The wines began with Simon was careful in his criticism. He tasted agave him the chance to make some progress with Seppelt’s Brut 1946 and 1945 before dinner, then Hunter Verdelho 1962, and a Ben Ean Bin 1530his writing. The word “taxing” was significant, Henschke Rhine Riesling 1957 and Rudesheimer of 1960, a blend of mainly ugni blanc with aas he did indeed dine with friends, notably 1959. Next came Lindeman’s Coolalta Burgundy little semillon, and considered the blend to beJim McGregor, with whom he shared meals 1957 and Meursault Genevrieres 1959. Seppelt’s “a distinctly better wine with a little more colouron Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Burgundy K91 1954 and Chateauneuf-du- and more body”. Two Ben Ean reds made fromDay. He gratefully recorded that for Christmas Pape 1959 were followed by Château Mouton- shiraz, one 1957, the other 1959, did not pleaselunch there was “no turkey and plum pudding Rothschild 1952, and finally Chateau Suduiraut him at all: they “were bottled too early and stillbut roast capon and mince pies, with a bottle of 1955, topped off with Cognac Brugerolle. Simon (had) a long way to go, sulking for the lack ofKrug 1955”. Simon must have appreciated the reported that the “truly memorable meal” had air”. Not surprisingly, he thought it was “ratherbreak from being perpetually under scrutiny, only one flaw - there were no ladies. So Baker a disappointing performance so far”. But reliefand having to make polite conversation with “promised there and then to give me satisfaction” was at hand, in the form of three older reds -winemakers and others. The quiet time in and invited Simon back three days later, when Bins 4225 of 1946, 4080 of 1945, and 2836 ofcongenial and undemanding company must the wives of all those present were to have lunch 1944. Simon had already enthused over the 1945have been refreshing to him. It was, he wrote, the with him, with no males. Simon must have been which, bottled in 1948 and described as a HunterSimon, with Rudy Komon and his wife, tucked into a simple meal - prawns, a well-cooked andmoist roast chicken, mangoes and Irroy Carte d’Or 1955.first time he had ever spent a Christmas evening pleased - he frequently commented on the lack River Burgundy, he had tasted at a dinner partyalone. He “did not feel any inclination for either of ladies as his dining companions. Baker was given by Lady Lloyd Jones 12 days earlier. Thefood or drink any more than reading or writing: again the chef. Among the ladies accompanying three wines came from the cellar of one AT Reid,sleep was all that I did wish for, and I put myself the delighted Simon were Mrs Neville Baker (we who had supplied the previous bottle. “Althoughto bed dinnerless”. Simon did indeed drop off are not told her first name), Joy Lake (Mrs Max all three were interesting,” considered Simon,to sleep, but he also dropped off the bed and Lake, and the only woman to be given a first “the 1945 stood out as the finest of them”. Thebruised his back. As he said, “it was better than name and not her husband’s), and the wives of lunch finished with fruit and a bottle of Lindemanbreaking a leg or an arm, and a few days’ expert some members of the Wine and Food Society. Reserve Madeira 1940, “a tawny wine made frommassaging put it right”. The meal and wines were no less memorable verdelho grapes and quite a pleasant dessert than the meal Baker served to the men. Canapes, wine”. I don’t know what else they ate, but back On Boxing Day Simon and McGregor were crepes delicieuses, sauce hollandaise (which at the Belvedere for dinner that night Simon, withjoined by Lady Lloyd Jones and her son Simon described as “a tasty confection of fish Rudy Komon and his wife, tucked into “a simpleCharles, and one Freda Nesbitt. They dined at wrapped up in a very fine pancake”), filet de meal - prawns, a well-cooked and moist roastthe Belvedere, in the Signatures Room, where boeuf roti, oignons monegasque, salades de chicken, mangoes and Irroy Carte d’Or 1955”.they tucked into smoked salmon, escalopes courgettes et tomates. This was finished off withde veau maison (“a really fine dish”), a cheese zabaglione. The women drank Seppelt’s Brut Simon celebrated New Year’s Eve at a “fullsouffle, and at least one bottle of Irroy 1955. The 1950 before the meal, then Seppelt’s Chablis dress affair” at Jim McGregor’s home at Darlingnext meal Simon noted was on December 28, L14 1955, then Mount Pleasant Hermitage 53/13 Point, with the chief guest being the wine-andat Cherry Hill, St Ives, where the host and chef 1953 (“made by Tyrrell, bottled by O’Shea”), then food-loving prime minister, Sir Robert Menzies.was Neville Baker, one of the “Four Musketeers” Chateau Haut-Brion 1950 and, to finish, Piper All Simon said about the dinner was that theyon the Hunter Valley excursion. Among the six Heidsieck 1955. drank Krug and Chateau Yquem, and more Krugother guests were Rudy Komon and Max Lake at midnight to see in the New Year.24 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014



Great EXPECTATIONS FROM NORTH TO SOUTH, EAST TO WEST, AUSTRALIAN WINE MAKERS ARE LOOKING BACK AT A SERIES OF VINTAGE RECORDS AND ONE-OFFS, AND AHEAD WITH ANTICIPATION.26 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

Virnetpao2g0er1t 3CHARLES GENT found it difficult to ripen, with many picked at lower than desirable baume. South Burnett experiencedDESPITE THE CLIMATIC DIVERSITY within the a similar fate, the whites eluding the rain and thearc of winegrowing regions that spans much of reds again not quite so fortunate.our continental fringe, three adjectives would beused again and again across Australia to describe South of the border, the Hunter Valley came verythe character of the 2012/2013 growing season close to playing a blinder. A dry and hot-but-not-– “warm”, “dry” and “compressed”. Queensland too-hot growing season saw whites picked earlyand parts of New South Wales, where tropical from mid-January, and in terms of the regionalcloudbursts dogged the ripening of the reds, flagship semillon, some truly memorable wines arecomprised a dissenting minority. Elsewhere, on the way. When the rains did come, they includedthough, the tone of the vintage was set by a marked a 150mm downpour in 18 hours on Australia Dayabsence of rainfall in the summer months (and and settled in for several weeks. Even so, thanksoften during spring as well). Regions as disparate to strategic picking and one well-placed bright andas Bendigo and the Adelaide Hills had its driest breezy week in March, many Hunter wineries arevintages ever, the Barossa Valley had its shortest touting a flavoursome vintage for shiraz, albeit invintage in memory and Western Australia counted reduced quantities.the summer as its hottest on record. In the Riverina, the dry weather proved to be A warm season in a cool-climate region is a boon for the broad-acre growers. On top of atraditionally greeted as a harbinger of high quality, record tonnage of red grapes, reports conveyedand certainly there are some very satisfied looking a picture of good quality and sound fruit in bothwinemakers tending barrels in locales such reds and whites.as the Pyrenees, the Yarra Valley, Hilltops andTumbarumba, and grins aplenty in Margaret River. There was little surprise that Tumbarumba andAnd while the long dry did require taps to be turned HiIltops both claimed very good seasons, sinceon hard in most of the warmer (and some cooler) their weather patterns mirrored each other. Bothareas, the bonus was an almost complete absence had close to ideal growing conditions, almostof disease. There were inevitable swings and erasing memories of the rain-sodden, mildew-roundabouts within states and individual regions, laden vineyards of the previous two vintages, andbut the overall verdict on 2013 is very positive, with top-notch semillon, riesling, shiraz and cabernetnumerous regions counting it among their best in sauvignon have been foreshadowed.several vintages and a few rating it as potentiallyoutstanding for some of their hallmark varieties. After a dry and placid start to the season in the Canberra district, jitters arrived in the form of Queensland was one state where rain was all too February storms. By vintage, however, the desiredmanifest. The Granite Belt’s early rains cleared in pattern of warm days and cool nights had reassertedtime for a good harvest of whites, but persistent rain itself. The upshot is high expectations for qualityand cloud later in the season meant that the reds across the board, especially from riesling. Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 27

Virnetpao2g0er1t 3 Spirits were up in the highlands of Orange: in contrast to 2012’s chilly spells, the warmth meant minimal interference for vignerons and full ripening for the grapes, although some faced flare-ups of mildew thanks to intervals of rain. Yields hovered around the average, and with talk of great natural acidity in many wines, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc are expected to shine, while others tip their shiraz. The effects of the warm weather were unequivocal in Mudgee, where the vintage is being rated among its best for many years. Yields were down as much as 30 per cent, but as a consequence there is strong varietal concentration in both reds and whites. After copping its customary spring frosts, the season began dry, if late, in Cowra, but the region then had to contend with heavy rains after veraison, which brought mildew in their wake. Flavour structures in the harvested grapes were good. Across inland Victoria, conditions were very much of a piece: the season began dry and warm and proceeded to get hotter and hotter, and most growers were obliged to fall back on their dams. Short vintages ensued in Rutherglen (which bounced back from searing heat in the New Year), Bendigo, the Grampians and also in Beechworth, where, we’re told, their chardonnay will be one to watch. The real winners, though, were the reds. Specifically there is talk of wonderfully concentrated shiraz in most regions, very tasty cabernet and nebbiolo from Beechworth, and good durif from Rutherglen. The fortified muscats also stand to profit. In the coastal strongholds, Geelong’s vintage was seamless and the watchword among winemakers is varietal intensity. Complexity is expected from pinots gris and noir, and forward flavours from shiraz and cabernet. Growing conditions in the Mornington Peninsula were dry and initially mild on the back of winter rains, and even though a crescendo of heat brought vintage on with a rush in March, the 28 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

quality of the chardonnay more than offset its lower THE BAROSSA treated to a hot, dry summer that morphed into ayields; pinot noir is showing depth in both colour cooler March, ideal for producing the intense varietaland flavour. HAD PLENTY OF flavours associated with the region’s specialty whites. If chardonnay was the best of the whites, semillon and The Macedon Ranges was very much a cool HEAT AND VIRTUALLY sauvignon blanc were close behind. And the steadyregion reveling in a warm season and is claiming ripening for cabernet sauvignon is anticipated to givethe vintage as its best in a decade. Fruit ripened with NO RAIN, RESULTING rise to wines of exceptional balance.unaccustomed ease, although at the expense ofyields. In Heathcote, the extreme heat stayed away, IN A VINTAGE OF November’s strong winds and hail also descendedand the warmth and dryness of the season made for on the southerly regions of Pemberton, Greata very good vintage, with reds in the ascendancy. BLINK-AND-YOU- Southern, Denmark, Mount Barker, Frankland andGoulburn Valley’s very dry summer still managed Porongurup, roughing up the vines and reducingto produce “crisp and delicate” flavours in the MISSED-IT yields. Warm dry weather through to March led towhites, and there was mitigation from showers late an early vintage for the whites. Extensive rain andin February, slowing down the ripening of the reds DURATION. cloud delayed the ripening of the reds, but cabernetwith pleasing results. showed its mettle and thrived. Although smaller yielding, with cabernet, shiraz and malbec faring well. quantities resulted, very good quality is anticipated, Murray Darling and Swan Hill saw the hot The Barossa had plenty of heat and virtually no especially from riesling and chardonnay.conditions as a traditional vintage, and celebratedwith a crop that was up by 15 per cent on 2012. rain, resulting in a vintage of blink-and-you-missed- Geographe had rains early in summer and againFruit quality across red and whites was judged very it duration. With conditions verging on drought, in a mild March, leading to a comparatively lengthy,good, but there was far more gordo than required. irrigation was very much the order of the day. It’s two-phase vintage. The whites were hustled intoDown in Henty, the dry growing season followed on no surprise that the varieties expected to perform ripeness by heat, while the reds, in contrast, lingereda wet winter, and the harvest was up by a fifth on best are Valley stalwarts grenache and shiraz. Eden on the vines. Some first-class cabernet and shiraz2012. The two-headed vintage phenomenon – one Valley also saw early ripening and picking (plus a are on the way.very early, one more or less conventional – was in nine-day heat wave in March), but the trade-off ofevidence, but the region expects great things from low yield for high quality fruit held good, and early In WA’s more northerly regions, growers andits main red and white varieties. harvested riesling and shiraz look exemplary. winemakers were happy with a hot but virtually ideal growing season that produced intensely flavoured Across the border, the Coonawarra’s season was Clare’s dry and hot start to the season was grapes for both red and white wines. Yields rangedtoo hot and too dry to be ideal, but is nevertheless punctuated by early December rain, and temperatures from low to average.expected to produce cabernet, shiraz and merlot had moderated by harvest. Riesling had yet anotherof good colour and tannin structure. The satellite good year, close to the standard of 2012. At the end of what appears to be an interminableregions fared well: Wrattonbully enjoyed a good if tale of low yields, it comes as something of aspeedy vintage, with cabernet the pick, and well- In the Riverland, the season was hot, leading to surprise to find that Australia’s total crop was upflavoured whites and stylish reds are expected pile-ups in the ripening of several varieties and by a hefty 10 per cent on 2012. The reasons lie infrom Mt Benson. causing logistical headaches. Thanks to irrigation the almost complete absence of losses to mildew and lack of disease the total crush weighed in only and mould and the ready availability of water for Up the road at Padthaway, the long dry was marginally below that of 2012. irrigation, thanks to good winter rains in mostmanaged with judicious watering, and the results for areas. Without them, the story might have had ashiraz and cabernet are predicted to be superior to For Tasmania, 2013 was – no surprises – warm rather different ending. The jump in the total cropthe previous good year. and dry, although the nights stayed cool. Increased is a statistic that will have a mixed reception in yields defied the mainland trend, as did a late finish different parts of the industry. The Winemakers Despite a bone-dry and compressed growing to vintage. Bushfires made for an anxious end to Federation of Australia, still determined to shedseason, the final return in terms of fruit structure the season in the south, but some excellent wines, structural oversupply, will undoubtedly feel afrom the low-yielding Adelaide Hills vintage is giving including pinot noir and sauvignon blanc, are in degree of frustration. For the growers, though, therecause for enthusiasm and there is also cause for the pipeline. was encouragement in the higher prices paid forsimilar optimism over the quality of the Adelaide pinot noir (up by 18 per cent), cabernet sauvignonPlains reds. Record heat didn’t entirely preclude rain in Western (16 per cent), shiraz (15 per cent), pinot gris Australia, but the state was again blessed with a (11 per cent) and chardonnay (6 per cent). McLaren Vale’s 2013 vintage outdid the short 2012 virtually disease-free vintage. Margaret River’s vinesin brevity, with frantic activity required to process the suffered an initial battering by storms, but were then In terms of the conditions that determine quality,often overlapping ripening of red and white varieties. 2013 will be remembered as a year in which theWhile heat and no rain again led to low yields and ladders comfortably outnumbered the snakes.occasional signs of stress, some fine quality wasevident, particularly among the reds. Langhorne Opposite top: Cloudy Vineyard Opposite bottom: GrapesCreek’s vintage was similarly early, rapid and low- Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 29

ESGDD‘ATCPROSAWEOTAMTOEHNMHI-NDEOSAEARPMTSEYEE’SD JUST AS WITH PEOPLE, IT TAKES NEW MIGRANT VARIETIES SOME TIME TO SETTLE DOWN AND FIND THEIR PLACE IN AUSTRALIA’S VINOUS SOCIETY.30 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

DAN TRAUCKI winemaker insists on making the wine in exactly petit verdot is finally being handled properly by the same way they make their typical chardonnay a few winemakers who are taming the tannins toWOW, A YEAR DOES ROLL BY QUICKLY these or shiraz. On the other hand there are some really produce some sensational wines.days, so it is time again to look back on 2013 and exciting new wines emerging.see what the “wine fairy” delivered unto the industry Lest we forget that Australia’s wine reputationand how this will impact our vinous near future. While there don’t seem to be any statistics out was originally built (as were certain winemaker’s there, it would not be far fetched to suggest that reputations) on blending skills. I often rabbit on As with most years we had the “major corporate” Australia today makes wine from a greater range about our most significant yet under-appreciateddramas/operas. The Pavarotti of 2013 being of different non-native grape varieties than any blend - that of shiraz and cabernet. We are theTreasury Estate wines writing off gazillions of other winemaking country on the planet - just like only country which makes such great balanceddollars worth of wine - more than the GDP of many we are one of the most multi-cultural societies. and well-rounded wines from this heavenlywhole wine growing areas and giving their boss You would not find the Iberian white variety combination, but to a large extent we ignore itman the flick. Almost a Verdi or Puccini Opera and savagnin in Italy or Greece, nor the Georgian red - why? The blend that is becoming much morea really hard act to follow, but I am sure that one variety saperavi in Spain or France, but you can successful and popular is that of shiraz grenacheof the other big guys will try to in 2014. However, find both of these along side countless of other and mataro (AKA monastrell or mouvedre); wein terms of what is popular (and what is not) with varieties, all making a new home for themselves have plenty of GSM blends as well. Some arethe punters it was more like listening to some of here in Australia. blended as SGM, but I have yet to see a winethe works of Vivaldi - a multitude of interesting and label with MSG on it!pleasant sounds but one is left with little idea of Just as with people, it takes new migrant varietieswhat it is all supposed to mean. Likewise with the some time to settle down and find their place in So what will the “wine fairy” bring us in 2014? Iwine industry, we were almost drowned in a sea of Australia’s vinous society, but when they do they believe that there will be a gradual, Asian export-positive propaganda from a plethora of wineries, make a valuable and enduring contribution to led improvement in profitability and viability butbut what did it all really mean? The reality is that this country’s fantastic multi-culturalism. After that in most other respects the waters will onlythe wine industry, like Australia, is in a “two-speed all, one must remember that there are no native get more cloudy, muddier and harder to predict.economy” with some companies doing really well Australian grape vines, so that all varieties are in The more adventurous winemakers will continuewhile others struggle to survive, and a few didn’t. fact migrants to this great nation of ours. The ones to experiment with “new” varieties, which areThe analogy doesn’t stop there, with China to a that are most likely to strut their stuff successfully better suited to our warm climate, and that if pastvery large extent being the saviour of the wine in the near future are, in the whites: fiano, gruner history is anything to go by, at least one big wineindustry, just as their hunger for minerals saved veltliner, savagnin and vermentino. Whereas in the company will make total gooses of themselvesour economy from the big “R” word - recession. reds, tempranillo is leading the charge as not only during the year.To further support this view, China is the market do more growers plant the variety, but also as anwith the fastest growing rise in terms of the dollars increasing number of winemakers start to handle So why not join the “wine fairy” and experiment byper litre value - and probably the only one as well. the variety appropriately as it deserves rather trying new wine varieties and styles so as to be part than handle it the same way as they make their of determining the future direction of the Australian Those companies with a clear and well- shiraz and cabernet. Other red varieties showing wine industry. Oh, and don’t forget the occasionalstructured “China plan” are doing well, whereas great promise at the moment are montepulciano, glass of shiraz cabernet or cabernet shiraz.those who are limiting themselves to the saperavi, zinfandel and there are even signs thattraditional export markets, or even worse Left: Wine pour in cellar. Above: Red wine grapes being pressed.still solely to the domestic market, aregenerally in some strife. Our traditional exportmarkets are still mainly stagnant, with the possibleexception of a few parts of the US, while on thedomestic scene the duopoly keeps on gettingbigger and are now making more wine themselves(under various guises) than some of the smallerwinegrowing regions make. Very few wineries trulyprosper from dealing with the Duopoly Demon. The opportunities for Australian wine in Asia asa whole are massive - it just requires significantlymore effort in getting started than what ourtraditional export markets did. I am talking not onlyabout China, but the rest of Asia as well, especiallycountries like Indonesia and Malaysia, which havemillions of ex-pats and non-Muslims living in themost moderate and tolerant Muslim countries inthe world. At the same time the Australian wineindustry is becoming much more “multi-cultural”with more wines from new alternative varietiessurfacing each year. Sure, some of them are ratherbland or boring because they come from ratherinsipid varieties, very young vines or because the Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 31

A CLARE NIGEL HOPKINS CLASSIC UP TO THE WINNING top honours at this year’s Canberra CHALLENGE International Riesling Challenge in Canberra was a triumph for the two brothers behind Pikes Wines32 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014 - winemaker Neil and viticulturist Andrew. It also is a triumph for the traditional style of riesling for which the Clare Valley in South Australia has become renowned - in this case Pikes 2013 Traditionale Riesling. “This is the 29th release of this much loved riesling,” said Neil Pike. “As always, it makes a lovely drink as a crisp, young wine, but will easily improve in the bottle for six-10 years for those who like riesling with a little age. I am yet to discover a better oyster wine than a young, dry Clare Valley riesling.” “It’s great to see this award come back to South Australia,” Pike added, saying that growing consumer interest in riesling was very much due to the strong support provided by events such as the CIRC. Riesling Challenge chairman Ken Helm said the regional focus of judging, which has been a feature of the CIRC in recent years, had gained support from the National Wine Show which, for the first time this year, had also adopted the approach in trying to identify regional characters in the wines. “This year’s winner of the Best Australian Riesling, Pikes Traditionale 2013, was a great demonstrator of a great vintage, and the typical Clare riesling characters and its terroir,” Helm said. “It was a classic Clare riesling from a very good vintage, which meant no stress on the vines, combined with smart winemaking to create a very nicely balanced wine.” He said this year’s event, the 14th to be held, had been the most successful due to the enormous support from the eight major riesling-producing countries. “The CIRC is all about promoting, awarding and recognising excellence in one of the oldest grape varieties and one of the first vines planted in Australia,” Helm said.

“The entries showed a wide range of great wines He hinted at class that included some of the great German,from some great vintages in both hemispheres. French and Australian rieslings, presentedFrance (Alsace) provided record entries and by leading experts from each country; and ahaving our first French judge this year widened the riesling-matching dinner, in which award-winningimportance of the Challenge to the internationalaudience. The Challenge is continuing to grow rieslings were matched with outstanding food.through fantastic support from our sponsors, inparticular our Foundation Sponsors, and we look a new initiative A highlight of the event was the presentationforward to their continuing support.” of a special ACT Government Centenary of Canberra Award to eminent Canberra District The top award at the 14th Challenge was won winemaker Dr Edgar Riek OAM for his outstandingby Weingut Georg Muller Stiftung, from theRheingau region of Germany, with its Schutzenhaus on promoting contribution to the Canberra District wine industryTrockenbeerenauslese 2011. over many years. Rieslings from eight countries - Australia, New With a distinguished scientific background,Zealand, US, Germany, France, South Africa, the Dr Riek brought a sharp analytical mind to theCzech Republic and Canada - were judged fortrophies of excellence at this year’s Challenge. district’s wine industry. He focused his energiesSeven judges - from Germany, Australia and France- and three associate judges tasted 487 wines over riesling to on developing the Canberra District as a winethree days to find the best wines across a number region, initiating the Canberra District Vigneronsof categories. Association and the National Wine Show of Australia. Dr Riek had initially gone to Canberra “The Riesling Challenge has always prided itselfon its ability to attract first-class judges,” Helm said. the world to work with the CSIRO as an entomologist, where“Having three international judges again this year he published notable papers and books, beforeis indicative of our success in positioning ourselves taking up a second career in grapes and wine.as leaders in the industry. The Europeans seeAustralia as an important part of the riesling world,” Helm recalled that in 1970 the Rieks hadadded Helm, who travels to Germany every twoyears to judge at a similar riesling competition to bought a block of land on the east-facingthe Canberra event. “The Germans are the biggestriesling producers, with about 22,000ha, Australia slope above Lake George where they hadcomes second with just under 4000ha, followed byAlsace and the US,” he said. started growing a multitude of fruit trees, Along with the Pikes Traditionale Riesling, vegetables and flowers from which they bredHelm said the other standout trophy-winningwine from the Southern Hemisphere in this year’s and developed new varieties. “Here he plantedChallenge was the Hunter’s Marlborough Riesling2012 from New Zealand. Helm emphasised his Lake George Vineyard in 1971, utilising histhat the CIRC is not just a wine show. As wellas putting on the biggest public riesling tasting extensive knowledge of wine and horticulturalin the Southern Hemisphere, it held a seminarhosted by leading riesling academics; a master matters,” Helm said. “Edgar encouraged and mentored many of the early vignerons and is recognised as one of the pioneers of the Canberra Wine District.” Helm thanked the continued support of the CIRC’s sponsors, “which allows this event to continue to grow and develop innovative ways to promote riesling as the great white wine of the world”, and he hinted at a new initiative on promoting riesling to the world: “It’s being developed now and we expect to be able to make an announcement about that initiative in the New Year.” Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 33

WINE OF THAEwYaErdAs R2013 1 2 34 5 1. Editor/Publisher Peter Simic takes the mic at the Wine of the Year Awards.34 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014 2. Alternative White Trophy winner Tahbilk representative and representative for sponsor Adelaide Convention Centre. 3. Australian Wine Company of the Year winner Peter Lehmann Wines represented by winemaker Andrew Wigan. 4. Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy winner Devils Lair representative with Mainfreight sponsor representative. 5. Get Wines Direct Alternative Dry Red Trophy Winner Palmer Margaret River Malbec 2011. 6. Fortified Trophy Winner Nick Blair, representative for Morris Wines with Sandy Donaldson, Donaldson Walsh Lawyers sponsor. 6

1 23WINE OF THE YEAR - Wolf Blass Platinum Label Barossa Shiraz 2010RUNNER-UP WINE OF THE YEAR - Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2009AUSTRALIAN WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR - Eric Semmler, 919 WinesAUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANY OF THE YEAR - Peter Lehmann WinesNEW ZEALAND WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR - Chris Scott, Church RoadNEW ZEALAND WINE COMPANY OF THE YEAR - Villa Maria 4 567 1. Italian Chamber of Commerce sponsor Luca Bottallo, Peter Simic and representative from Josef Chromy, Top 5 Placegetter. 2. Merlot Trophy Winner Richard Hamilton of Leconfield Wines with Amcor Sponsor. 3. Australian Winemaker of the Year, Eric Semmler and Peter Simic. 4. Richard Friend from Pokobin Estate receiving the Semillon Trophy from Champion Travel and Peter Simic. 5. Riesling Trophy Winner Richmond Grove and sponsor Pellenc. 6. Sparkling of the Year and Runner-Up Wine of the Year representing Treasury Wine Estates, Charles Hargrave and sponsor representative from Amcor with Peter Simic. 7. 919 Wines group with Australian Winemaker of the Year, Eric Semmler. Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 35

THE AWAR2D01S3 1 23 4Sparkling - AMORIM CORK TROPHY Semillon - CHAMPION TRAVEL TROPHY1st Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2009 1st Pokolbin Estate Semillon 2004 Yellowglen Perle Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV Allandale Semillon 2007 Blue Pyrenees Midnight Cuvee Pyrenees Sparkling 2009 Mount Pleasant Lovedale Hunter Valley Semillon 2007 Heemskerk Coal River River Valley Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2008 Pokolbin Estate Phil Swannell Semillon 2011 Courabyra 805 Tumbarumba Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier 2001 Coolangatta Estate Estate Grown Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2005Alternative Whites - ADELAIDE CONVENTION CENTRE TROPHY Chardonnay - CLASSIC OAK TROPHY1st Tahbilk 1927 Marsanne 2004 1st Fromm La Strada Marlborough Chardonnay 2010 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Omahu Gravels Viognier 2010 Matua Marlborough Chardonnay 2011 Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Fiano 2013 Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Marlborough Chardonnay 2010 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Viognier 2011 Holm Oak Vineyard Tasmania Chardonnay 2011 Tahbilk Central Victoria Marsanne 2012 Wolf Blass Gold Label Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2012Pinot Gris/Grigio - ITALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE MELBOURNE TROPHY Alternative Reds - GET WINES DIRECT TROPHY1st Hawkshead Gibbston Central Otago Pinot Gris 2012 1st Palmer Margaret River Malbec 2011 Yealands Estate Single Block R6 Awatere Valley Marlborough Pinot Gris 2012 The Old Faithful Northern Exposure McLaren Vale Grenache 2010 Josef Chromy Pinot Gris 2012 Whistling Kite Biodynamic Montepulciano 2012 Staete Landt Marlborough Pinot Gris 2011 Rosemount Nursery Project McLaren Vale Grenache 2010 Greystone Sand Dollar Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2012 Blackbilly McLaren Vale Tempranillo 2011Riesling - PELLENC TROPHY Pinot Noir - TRANSTHERM TROPHY1st Richmond Grove Watervale Riesling 2012 1st Lowburn Ferry Skeleton Creek Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011 Peter Lehmann Wigan Eden Valley Riesling 2008 Weaver Estate Wines Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011 Neagles Rock Clare Valley Riesling 2012 Coldstream Hills Esplanade Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2012 Patrick of Coonawarra Aged Coonawarra Riesling 2008 Yealands Estate Land Made Series Marlborough Pinot Noir 2012 Pauletts Polish Hill River Clare Valley Riesling 2013 Brennan Gibbston Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010Sauvignon Blanc - KENNARDS WINE STORAGE TROPHY Merlot - AMCOR GLASS TROPHY1st Selaks Winemakers Favourite Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 1st Leconfield Coonawarra Merlot 2012 Saint Clair Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 The Cabbage Tree Vineyard Martinborough Merlot 2009 Staete Landt Annabel Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Drylands Marlborough Merlot 2011 Bel Echo by Clos Henri Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Taylors Clare Valley Merlot 2012 Josef Chromy Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Raidis Estate Mama Goat Merlot 201036 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

Cabernet Sauvignon - MAINFREIGHT TROPHY 1st Devil’s Lair Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Mills Reef Elspeth Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Gralyn Estate Reserve Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Penley Estate Tolmer Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 20105 Shiraz/Syrah - BANG GROUP TROPHY 1st Wolf Blass Platinum Label Barossa Shiraz 2010 Lake Breeze Winemaker’s Selection Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2010 Jester Hill Wines Touchstone Granite Belt Shiraz 2010 Harcourt Valley Vineyards Barbara’s Bendigo Shiraz 2012 Sidewood Estate Mappinga Reserve Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2012 Sweet Whites - COTTER HOUSE TROPHY 1st Vidal Legacy Series Noble Semillon 2011 Villa Maria Reserve Botrytis Selection Marlborough Noble Riesling 2012 (375ml) Johanneshof Cellars Noble Late Harvest Riesling 2011 (375ml) Greystone Basket Star Waipara Valley Riesling 2011 (375ml) Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Noble Intent Botrytis 2010 (375ml) Fortifieds - DONALDSON WALSH LAWYERS TROPHY 1st Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rare Liqueur Tokay NV Morris of Rutherglen Cellar Reserve Grand Liqueur Muscat NV (500ml) Anvers 20 Years Old Kangarilla Rare Tawny NV Baileys of Glenrowan Winemakers Selection Rare Old Glenrowan Topaque NV Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rare Liqueur Muscat NV67 8 91. Wine of the Year Runner-Up Treasury Wine Estates Coldstream 10 11 Hills representative Charles Hargrave.2. Sweet White Top 5 Placegetter Shane Harris representing Handcrafted by Geoff Hardy Wines.3. Australian Winemaker of the Year, Eric Semmler.4. Winner of Wine of the Year, Matt O’Leary representing Wolf Blass Wines, Treasury Wine Estate.5. Chardonnay of the Year Winner, representative from Fromm La Strada and sponsor representative Classic Oak.6. Pinot Gris of the Year Winner representing Hawkeshead Wines.7. NZ Wine Company of the Year, Villa Maria with Ian Clark (left) and winemaker Nick Picone (right).8. Sauvignon Blanc of the Year Winner representing Selaks and awards sponsor, Kennards.9. Sweet White of the Year Winner representative for Vidal and Peter Jackson, Winestate Marketing Manager.10. Winestate New Zealand Editor, Michael Cooper and Peter Jackson present the NZ Winemaker of the Year Trophy to Chris Scott, Church Road.11. Pinot Noir of the Year Winner representing Lowburn Ferry and sponsor for Transtherm. Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 37

AFTER 170 YEARS THE GLEN EWIN STORY CONTINUES TO BE WRITTEN, WITH THE LATEST CHAPTER INVOLVING NEW CUSTODIANS AND A RESTORATION OF THE PROPERTY.38 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

JOY WALTERFANG Left: The Glen Ewin Estate Vineyards. Above: George McEwin. was up for sale, derelict and stripped of its former glory. Bill, a pilot, in his mid 50s, was operatingTUCKED away in the eucalypt scented bush of quantities, even exporting it. But the fruit orchards a crop dusting enterprise. “Time for a change, Ithe northern Adelaide Hills wine region near the were creating problems - they were producing thought,” said Bill. “Before I wrapped myself aroundtown of Houghton is one of the area’s most historic too much fruit. In 1862 McEwin purchased a large some power lines.”properties - Glen Ewin Estates. It seems a million copper vat and started turning that excess intomiles away from the maddening crowd yet, in jam; these were the humble beginnings of the They bought Glen Ewin without knowing what theyreality, is a mere 25 minutes from the Adelaide CBD. first large-scale jam factory in South Australia. wanted to do with it, except they knew it had to be Glen Ewin jams soon became a household name, something good. “We really seriously cared about Glen Ewin is many things to many people; it is employing over 100 people, receiving first prize the place”, said Bill “And we certainly weren’t goinga cellar door, a beautiful wedding venue, a wine at exhibitions in London, Paris and Philadelphia, to knock down all the old buildings as advised bystorage facility, a handy location for corporate and being a welcome inclusion in the tucker boxes some wise old friends. We were determined toconferences, has one of the largest fig orchards in of WWI soldiers. In 1867 the packaging of Glen work with what George McEwin had established.”Australia, is home to Willabrand fig products and Ewin jams had changed from glass jars to theiris a peaceful place to drop in for a coffee or stay famous tins. Jam production flourished under the And so Bill and Wendy Wauchope made Glenfor a long lazy lunch. Glen Ewin label and fruit had to be bought in from Ewin their home and undertook the daunting task local growers. of restoring not only the 170-year-old homestead, Back 170 years Glen Ewin was 80 or so but also the large array of factory and outbuildingsacres of untamed bush land newly acquired by It was a different story for the wine making side surrounding it.Scottish horticulturist and landscape gardener, of the business. Sometime around 1881 wineGeorge McEwin. production ceased and the vines removed. The Wauchope’s first venture was into bulk wine storage. “We were storing wine by the A few years before this acquisition McEwin had The story goes that McEwin and his son Robert barrel, the pallet and the bin. At one stage wewritten a book, popular among new settlers from came across one of their employees in such a would have had about 1000 bins in storage; itBritain, that bore the lofty title of South Australian woeful state of intoxication they decided it was was chockablock,” said Bill. They still offer localVigneron and Gardeners Manual; Containing Plain time to cease production of the demon drink, wineries and businesses bulk storage space butPractical Direction for the Cultivation of the Vine, released the bungs from their wine casks, have also expanded into climate-controlled cellarsthe Propagation of Fruit Trees with Catalogue and pulled out the vines and put all their efforts into for private collectors.Directions for Cultivation and the Management of making jam.the Kitchen Garden with Catalogue of Culinary In an old stone building, secreted under a hillVegetables etc. etc. Jam manufacture continued under the management and covered by a living green wall are 250 of of the McEwin family right up until 1988 but then these cellars. Some are small enough to hold 35 Needless to say the first thing McEwin did at things went pear shaped with the bank foreclosing cases others have a capacity to store over 150 withGlen Ewin was plant grape vines, fruit trees and on the 130-year-old business. shared areas for smaller quantities.vegetables. By 1991 Glen Ewin was a mere shadow of its With an average of 1000 bottles for each cellar Glen Ewin is listed as one of eight famous previous self, which was about the time Bill and Glen Ewin has the capacity to store around aAdelaide Hills vineyards pre-1900. By 1854 McEwin Wendy Wauchope happened upon the property. It quarter of a million bottles of wine. And they offerwas in full swing producing wine in commercial a nice little touch that similar facilities in the city can’t. Anytime anyone wants to call in and check on the progress of their maturing wine they are welcome to grab one of their bottles, sit out on the Bistro verandah and savour it with a platter of food. “In those early days we also looked into the wedding business. We started off with one or two a year; it was more a case of ‘bring your own knives and forks and portaloos’ back then,” said Bill. Nowadays Glen Ewin hosts around 150 weddings a year. With two totally separate venues - The Gatehouse and The Pulpshed - they are able to hold two weddings in one day. “And we haven’t married the wrong bride to the wrong groom – yet,” assured Bill with a laugh. Last year Adelaide’s wedding photographers voted Glen Ewin as their favourite place for wedding photographs. No wonder, it is rich with atmosphere. And where else would you have koalas and kangaroos gate-crashing the party while flocks of black cockatoos laughingly circle overhead. Bill recalls when they were building the Gatehouse a young couple came along looking for a venue Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 39

for their wedding. “It was just a building site at of Adelaide Hills’ wineries that don’t have their own The Bistro makes a pretty good cup of coffeethe time,” recalls Bill. “But they really wanted cellar doors. That’s good for the producer and if you happen to be passing and just need atheir wedding there. We said we should be able good for the consumer. caffeine fix.to have it ready in time. True to his word the lastnail was in place by the big day. “I thought they The Adelaide Hills wine region is a veritable maze In the early days of Glen Ewin’s restorationwere fantastic to have taken on the challenge and of valleys and hills offering every conceivable the Wauchopes gathered together as many ofat their wedding I presented them with a bravery micro-climate resulting in an eclectic range of the McEwin family members as they could tomedal.” A plaque on the wall of the Gatehouse wine styles. The Gatehouse tasting room gives show them what they were doing. “I think theacknowledges the occasion. wine lovers the opportunity to discover the hidden family is pleased with what we have done so far gems of the region. and have been extremely generous with family During the week these two venues double as the memorabilia some of which we plan to displayperfect location for corporate functions; far enough THE SHEER on The Gatehouse walls. I invited them to holdfrom the city to be undisturbed; close enough not ENTHUSIASM their next family reunion here,” said Bill.to waste time travelling. AND BOUNDLESS ENERGY OF GLEN There are two plaques at Glen Ewin - one was Then there are the figs; hectares of fig trees EWIN’S NEW unveiled by Sir Thomas Playford to mark 100growing in neat rows draped across the hills. It CUSTODIANS HAS years of jam making and, last year, Premierwasn’t always like that. When the Wauchopes RETURNED IT Jay Weatheral repeated the event, this time themoved into Glen Ewin in 1991, the fig orchard BACK TO A BUSY plaque was to celebrate 150 years of continuousthat had produced Glen Ewin’s most popular jam AND PRODUCTIVE jam making at Glen Ewin.was choking under brambles, some trees were PROPERTY.over 9m high - yet the fruit tasted good. Bill and The sheer enthusiasm and boundless energyWendy’s son Willa saw potential. He replanted the of Glen Ewin’s new custodians has returnedorchards and seven years later registered the name it back to a busy and productive property albeit,Willabrand. And so fig jam continues to be made according to Bill: “It’s a never ending workat Glen Ewin with the same recipe used 150 years in progress!”ago - except now it bears the Willabrand label. When I first met Bill he was busy digging a But it is no longer just jam that comes from the huge hole in his back lawn, repairing a leakingGlen Ewin orchards. There are Willabrand figs water pipe. I called him George - a slip of“enrobed” in dark Belgium chocolate, glace figs, the tongue? I don’t think so. I think he is thedried figs, frozen figs, fig chutney, fig and nut slices reincarnation of George McEwin and I thinkand of course fresh figs that you can pick yourself George would be well pleased having him atif you feel so inclined. the helm of Glen Ewin’s revitalisation. The Gatehouse Bistro and cellar door showcases Below: The 100 year-old Pulpshed sits adjacent to theGlen Ewin wines as well as wines from a number Glen Ewin Estate homestead, lake and garden all of which is framed by mature trees.40 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

Ralph Fowler Wines Please feel free to contact Ralph Fowler wines via any of the following methods:and Merlot and the latest viticultural technologies have been Phone: +61 8 8768 5000incorporated into the vineyard plantings. Fax: +61 8 8768 5008and allow the production of fruit driven wines with strong Email: [email protected] expression and superior mouthfeel. PRD irrigation www.ralphfowlerwines.com.aupractices ensures quality grapes are produced as well as taking a Location:major step toward environmentally sustainable agriculture. 101 Limestone Coast Road Mount Benson South Australia Postal Address: PO Box 423 Kingston SE South Australia 5275www.ralphfowlerwines.com.au



WINESTATE PUBLISHING ATTENDEDTHE ANNUAL HONG KONG INTERNATIONALWINE AND SPIRITS FAIR AT THE HONG KONGINTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION CENTRE IN NOVEMBER.The display was the largest private display from Australia and New Zealand,with nine Australian and one New Zealand winery in attendance. THE WINERIES PRESENT WERE The Western Australian contingent consisted of Fermoy Estate and Brygon Reserve Wines (Margaret River) as well as Barwick Wines from Pemberton. Flying the flag for McLaren Vale was The III Associates and Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy. The Barossa was represented by Grant Burge and Atze's Corner Wines. Simon Gilbert (Gilbert Family Wine Company) represented NSW and Simon Clayfield travelled from Central Victoria. Winestate Magazine's NZ Winemaker of the Year (2012) Dom Maxwell held the torch for New Zealand with Greystone Wines.This year’s Hong Kong International Wine The fair also welcomed 75 buying missions to see smaller non-commercial styles. Manyand Spirits Fair featured more than 1,000 with more than 3,000 buyers from 25 expressed interest in the aromatic winesexhibitors from 40 countries and regions. countries and regions. Among them were from Greystone - overall there was very 360buy.com from the Chinese mainland, little from NZ (Winestate was the largest The exhibition had over 20,000 buyers in Mövenpick Wein from Germany, Takamura representative for NZ wines at the Fair).attendance. The increase in Asian buyers Co. from Japan, Anantara Hotels fromwas most significant, in particular, the Thailand and a number of Hong Kong’s A growing interest in \"luxury\" wines withChinese mainland, Macau, Korea, Japan, companies such as 759 Store, King Parrot price tags of over $200 was also evident.Malaysia, the Philippines and Indonesia Group, Lan Kwai Fong Entertainments and Curiously Hong Kong is the cheapest placerecorded double-digit growth. Other Miramar Group. in the world to buy 2008 Grange - at onlyoverseas buyers came mostly from Italy, AUD $499.France, Australia, USA and Canada. To The number of Asian buyers showed afurther promote wine culture, the fair was significant increase of 15%. The Hong Kong International Wine and Spiritopen to public visitors aged 18 or above Fair is on again from 6-8 November, 2014.on 9 November and attracted nearly 24,000 The public open day saw many more localwine lovers, increased by 18% compared trade buyers as well as hospitality buyers The event is organised by the Hong Kongto the previous year. from Hong Kong. It was also pleasing to see Trade Development Council www.hktdc.com many expatriate/business guests very keen Contact Ms. Toni Wade in Sydney [email protected] for further information.

adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSDining at Magill Estate was never going to be been described as the “instrument used by the Opinion will be divided about the new interioran inexpensive business. It never was, and for a virtuosi of great cooking” and it’s a fitting tool of design from restaurant designer du jour Pascalerestaurant that now clearly aspires to take a place trade for this kitchen. Huggins is currently offering Gomes-McNab, which has taken a more theatricalin the world’s Top 100 restaurants what matters five and eight (effectively 10) course degustations, approach with hand-blown glass sphere lightingis what you get and whether or not it’s value for with the option of matching wines. The five-course - plus a vivid red neon strip, blackwood tablesmoney. It certainly got off to a bumpy start with the degustation is priced at $135 ($265 with matched with brass inlays and 60’s style chairs - all a bitreplacement of its executive chef, Jock Zonfrillo, wine), the eight-course $185 ($435), with a four- retro and drawing attention to the inside of thebarely two months before its reopening in August. course Sunday lunch ($215 with wine). Initially restaurant rather than the grand view over AdelaideFor the previous 18 months Zonfrillo had managed at least, it’s been the $435 option that’s attracted from this classic 19-year-old glass pavilion.all aspects of the restaurant’s refurbishment and most customers, which must be encouraging for While there will be critics over how Penfolds hasvisited several of the world’s best restaurants, other restaurateurs who claim there’s no money handled the lengthy closure and refurbishment ofincluding Noma, in Denmark, and D.O.M. in Brazil. “out there”. You’ll start with superb house-made Magill Estate, the company deserves enormous sourdough and house-churned Jersey butter credit for hanging in and delivering a restaurant However it seems there was a falling out over the before moving on to dishes such as a single, ultra- that already has regained its place as the jewelfinal direction of the restaurant and the balance in fresh oyster sitting in a pool of cucumber juice and in the crown of Adelaide’s restaurants. Openemphasis between food and wine, with Penfolds’ topped with crumbled frozen apple juice (which lunch Sunday, dinner Wednesday-Saturday.preference clearly focused on having a major includes a slug of Hendricks gin); freshly-killed Magill Estate, 78 Penfold Rd, Magill;showcase for its wine. The appointment of Scott Kangaroo Island marron, grilled and served with phone (08) 8301 5551.Huggins as executive chef was welcomed by those Jerusalem artichoke (pickled, fried and pureed),in the trade who knew his cooking. In a 15-year with crisply-fried skin; and cubed Port Lincoln Nu Suandokmai was the golden boy of Gougercareer, he had worked at a number of international blue fin tuna tossed with diced baby asparagus, St a decade ago when he had Nu’s Thai restaurant.fine-dining and Michelin-star restaurants, and an egg yolk topped with crumbed dehydrated Now, after long stints first at the Bali Ritz Carlton,most recently Nihonryori Ryugin in Tokyo. He black olive. There’s a masterly approach to both then his own top-rated restaurant in Blues Pointassembled a team of 11 chefs, including head chef texture and flavour that defines all of Huggins Road, Sydney, Nu is back in Adelaide and plans toShannon Fleming and pastry chef Emma Shearer stay. His Golden Boy restaurant, in partnership withwho were part of the previous Magill regime. But an dishes. The waygu beef course (with roast garlic the owners of the Botanic Hotel, has opened witheven bigger bump awaited him. Two weeks after and a sesame dressing) comes with a glass of a menu that includes some of the gutsy, authenticopening, five of his key staff - including Fleming, the the 2008 Grange which, at current retail prices, dishes that made his name at Nu’s - basically hisrestaurant manager and head sommelier - defected accounts for nearly a quarter of the total bill per mother’s cooking from central Thailand, but nowto join Zonfrillo in a new venture. Huggins, to his head. That, and the opening glass of Krug, add has broadened to include street-style dishes fromenormous credit, was unperturbed. “It sometimes considerable value to the matching wine selection around the country. A feature this time will be ahappens like this in our business,” he said, as he which starts with the 2010 Cellar Reserve Pinot charcoal grill for dishes such as “crying tiger” –settled down with his new head chef (and fiance) Gris and ends with a glass of Great Grandfather chargrilled beef with roasted chilli, tamarind andEmma McCaskill to rebuild the team. One media port to go with the toasted hay-infused icecream. lime. Located in a restaurant space once famous forreport at the time said that Zonfrillo’s departure Thai cooking by acclaimed chef Michael Voumard,had “shattered” Magill Estate’s plans to transform styling is industrial chic with high marble-toppeditself into a world-class restaurant. Goodness tables supported on scaffolding, combined withknows what the verdict might have been after the low leather banquette seating and a kitchen table for the full kitchen theatre. The plan is tosubsequent departures, but in any case that verdict stay open late to match the adjoining hotel barwas wrong. With his first set of menus Huggins has hours. Open lunch Friday and Sunday, dinnershown himself to be a world-class chef with the Wednesday-Sunday. 309 North Tce, Adelaide;makings of a very significant restaurant. It’s not phone (08) 8227 0799.something a customer would ever see, but outthe back there’s a custom-built Molteni stove, said Left: Magill Estate interior. Above: Golden Boy interior.to cost the best part of $500,000 - a vast squareof ovens, cooktops, hotplates, even a charcoalgrill - of which there are only four in Australia. It’s44 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNThe development of Brookfield Place in St a couple of dollops of piquant lemon yoghurt. TheGeorges Tce, Perth, 12 months ago has been the trout is subtle, moist and the dish is beautifullybiggest thing to happen to WA’s hospitality industry balanced and deserves high praise. Next, smallin the last decade. Half a dozen new restaurants portions of roast duck breast are presented withand as many bars have opened at the one location confit of duck cromesqui (croquettes), spinach andon the main thoroughfare in the CBD. Perth city a garnish of nasturtium leaf. This dish is brilliant, it’scentre now has a depth of sophistication and a cooked sensitively, the duck breast is pink vergingwide choice of eating and drinking venues. Print on red, absolutely perfectly done and the smallHall is the largest of them at Brookfield Place, a croquettes are flavour bombs and balanced bymassive bar and restaurant now occupies a space the spinach and nasturtium leaves and a smearwhich was the epi-centre of The West Australian of spinach puree. This is outstanding food. Printnewspaper built in 1932 and it retains the classical Hall is definitely a special-occasion dining venue,Art Deco detailing of the period. The bar was once make sure the credit card is healthy and enjoy it.the foyer and classified ad section of the “West” 125 St Georges Tce, Perth; phone (08) 6282 0000.and the main dining room alongside is elegantand enhanced by smart leather banquettes, retro There are up to a dozen flights a day from Perthtables and chairs, a European-inspired menu to Bali and you’d think there would be manyand an extraordinary award-winning wine list. We more Indonesian restaurants in Perth, given theare lunching in an intimate room on the first floor, Sandgropers’ love of the island and its food, buthowever, and this is more conservatively furnished there’s only a handful. Arguably the best is Monggoand decorated. We begin our meal in style with (meaning “greetings” in Javanese) in Mount Lawley.a few of Jerry Fraser’s freshly-shucked oysters David Wijaya opened his restaurant 18 monthswith a gentle squeeze of fresh lime and a glass of ago offering contemporary Indonesian ArchipelagoRoederer, and then enjoy two dishes which are an dishes. He serves his food in a bright, colourful andindelible part of the Print Hall menu. A thick fillet clean dining room and on modern white crockeryof Tasmanian ocean trout is cold smoked and then in many shapes and sizes, and the glassware ispoached (sous vide) and served with deep-fried acceptable for an eating house of this ilk. My winecrispy trout skin, pumpernickel, a fresh oyster and pal and I start lunch with Kwo Tie ($8.90), six small steamed dumplings filled with pumpkin, mushroom, coriander and ginger. They are silky, subtle parcels Solomon’s is a new place with a difference until they are dipped into the accompanying chilli in the trendy Highgate/ Mount Lawley strip. oil, which is atomic powered, and a hazard light It caters for those with food intolerances and flashes for what else may be hiding in the kitchen. serves quality all-organic food. It’s gluten-free, We are not at all intimidated by spicy food, we both processed-sugar free and there is no dairy love it and the Jakarta Nasi Goreng ($13.90), the produce to be seen. Owner Paul Ridge suffers famous fried rice dish of Indonesia is hot, but not food allergies and set up this healthy haven for hot enough for us to reach for the chilled water. those with a similar misfortune. The place is We savour the fat juicy prawns in this, along with big, popular and as you’d expect, not at budget fresh squid pieces, chicken, chilli, crunchy snow prices, but it is attracting wide custom - there peas and the liberal use of kecap manis in the are obviously plenty of sensitive stomachs out rice. Chilli-heat options are available with this dish. there. You don’t need to be a raw food addict, Three fillets of Jimbaran fish and potato pieces a vegan or vegetarian to eat at Solomon’s, ($16.90) are next. This dish is as Balinese as a carnivores are just as welcome and are catered Bintang T-shirt. The fillets are glazed with a sticky for. Look for beetroot chips, quinoa sushi, sweet spicy paste and grilled to a nicety, and the use of potato gnocchi, pumpkin pancakes, grass- chilli is tempered so as not to be an overpowering fed lamb cutlets and some exciting desserts. influence. Well done! We finish with Ayam Bakar Desserts without dairy products and processed Madu ($9.90) four chicken drumsticks marinated in sugar? You betcha! Open for breakfast, honey and chilli, cooked to a ridiculously-crunchy lunch and dinner. 487 Beaufort St, Highgate; crispness and served with pickled veg. Great phone (08) 9328 7995. stuff! The service here mid-week by Indonesian lass Tiara couldn’t be friendlier or more obliging. Above : Print Hall’s Ayam Bakar Madu (top), interior and Jakarta Bring your own alcohol to Monggo and because Nasi Goreng (bottom) Left: Print Hall bar staff. of the spices here, you would be wise to leave the champagne and other elegant wines at home and tuck a bold and flavoursome wine under your arm when visiting. 683 Beaufort St, Mount Lawley; phone (08) 9471 8988. Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E 45

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KING Parking is at a premium near The Riverview Hotel starters that ranked as strong temptations were But the meat dishes are something else from in Balmain. When the “Riv”, as the heritage-listed crispy duck, red cabbage, lentils and pinenuts the six-hour braised suffolk lamb shoulder pub is popularly known, opened in 1880, only and seared scallops with beef cheeks, pumpkin to dry-aged Oakleigh ranch wagyu rump crazy optimists envisioned the day when nearly and radish. Sloane restricts the mains lineup to with Madeira foam. Public Dining Room, everyone would own their own private transport. five or six dishes but it’s still difficult to choose 2a, The Esplanade, Balmoral Beach, Mosman; In the late ’70s and early ’80s, the Riverview was between them. I hesitated for a long time between phone (02) 9968 4880. owned by the legendary swimmer Dawn Fraser, the beetroot gnocchi and Cone Bay barramundi If your knowledge of Japanese beer begins with but the gentrification of Balmain has washed away with prawns and quinoa in a coconut curry sauce. Asahi and ends with Kirin, it’s time to try a Japanese nearly all traces of its larrikin past and the era The Berkshire pork neck and lamb shoulder with craft beer such as Isakadoya Imperial Red Ale. when hundreds of pubs earned the area the title spring vegetables that took its inspiration from the The place? Ippudo, part of the Japanese ramen of Sydney’s “most social suburb”. The Riverview classic French dish - Epaule d’Agneau Printaniere noodle chain that has cut a swathe through New underwent a total renovation in 2008, turning into - also rolled out to many of the surrounding tables. York, Tokyo, Seoul and Hong Kong. Located in one of the best gastro pubs in town. Head chef There’s a Trust the Chef deal for $75 per person, Sydney’s most upmarket food court - Westfield Brad Sloane was voted 2012 NSW Australian accompanied by recommended wines for $55pp. Sydney Shopping Centre - long queues have Hotels Association Chef of the Year and has A smart move if the satisfied faces of three formed from day one for signature dishes such worked with Marco Pierre White at the Belevdere groups near us were proof positive. Servings are as tonkatsu ramen - a fragrant pork and noodle in London and Matthew Kemp, formerly of Banc, generous so there are only three dessert offerings soup. The pork belly and Japanese mayonnaise Balzac and The Devonshire, one of Sydney’s most as a general rule, although my fellow diner was buns and Samurai pork ribs go particularly well respected chefs. A card-carrying fan of nose-to- disappointed that the lemon curd with blueberry with the draught Asahi on tap. Ippudo is also a tail cooking, Sloane has put together a great bar granita and shortbread was “having a rest”. The prime venue to share fried chicken wings and menu and a tightly edited seasonal one in the spiffy selection of artisan cheeses, including Pyengana hot tofu soup with pork and noodles, with two upstairs restaurant. One of the best things about cheddar, is a favourite with regulars but we went or six others. If possible come early for lunch The Riverview is that it has retained its soul while for the warm marmalade pudding with almond ice and dinner to avoid the almost-permanent lines. journeying upmarket. Craft beer is a major focus in cream and berries, and wished we hadn’t gone Ippudo, Level 5, Westfield CBD, 188 Pitt St; the downstairs bar where people of all ages from for the ladies’ option of one slice and two spoons. phone (02) 8078 7020. young female singletons to local characters whose Prices are reasonable - from $17 to $19 for entrees No one bats an eyelid at Nepalese restaurants families have lived in Balmain for generations mix and high $20s and low $30s for mains. A smart in Newtown or African cafes in Chippendale easily. When the alcohol needs to be soaked up, strategy that keeps locals coming back regularly but a colonial Portuguese/Goan restaurant in patrons can order a wagyu burger with shoestring and visitors wanting to make the trip again. Even Darlinghurst still has the surprise factor. Owned fries, crispy duck salad with kipfler and cabbage though The Riverview thinks of itself as part of by the Fernandes brothers, whose grandfather or a gourmet pizza ($3 extra for a gluten-free a great Australian tradition, you are reminded hailed from India, Aquaviva has four eating and base) such as Prawnmundi, topped with prawns, of the French bistro ideal where people of all drinking spaces spilling through a two-storey barramundi, cherry tomatoes and chilli. Like the generations dine very well and enjoy themselves Victorian terrace, including a sun deck, a burnished publicans of yore, Dawn Fraser lived above the with refinement but without pretence. In summer, wood bar and an upstairs dining room kitted out pub but she wouldn’t recognise the space today. be sure to make a table on the outdoor terrace. like an old-style parlour. The dishes have cutesy- The slick interior of dark olive walls, colonial The Riverview Hotel, 29 Birchgrove Rd, Balmain; pie names such as Underwater Weapons and shutters and white tablecloths is centred by a phone (02) 9810 1151. Cross-Cultural Kangaroo but this is fusion cuisine bar dishing out Cosmopolitans, Caipirinhas and Speaking of the outdoors, views don’t come much done very well indeed from Goan ricotta with lychee martinis. An international wine list cruises better that the panorama stretching from Middle fennel to Portuguese chicken in a sweet/spice through several continents from Bernhard Ott Head to Manly. A natural vision served up for sauce. Aquaviva, 77 Stanley St, Darlinghurst; Gruner Veltliner to Chateaux Labegorce Margaux free with the modern Australian menu at Public phone (02) 9380 7637. and Geoff Merrill “Pimpala Rd” Shiraz. The entree Dining Room at Balmoral Beach. The decor is special of the night was zucchini flowers stuffed pseudo-Scandinavian with plenty of American Left: Private dining room at The Riverview Hotel. Top: Canapés. with three cheeses and fried in tempura batter, oak, marble, Belgian linen and Eames chairs but so my choice was almost made for me. Other the glare of Aussie sunshine takes away any hint of subdued moodiness. The Watermark restaurant46 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014 filled this prized site for years but its replacement is more sophisticated and just as relaxing. Fish rates highly throughout the menu, beginning with starters such as cured salmon tartare rolled in sorrel leaves, burrata, fresh peas and wasabi, Hendricks gin-cured trout, sweet cucumber and fennel vinaigrette and wild kingfish carpaccio with chilli and capers. Keep up the aquatic theme with beer-battered Victorian flathead and hand-cut chips or “melting” Huon Valley Tasmanian salmon with snow peas, shimeji puree and beurre blanc.

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELA recent trip to the Gold Coast revealed some Beginning with little plates of olives and dips - smoked fish and crustacean, a lemony fish soup,smart new venues dotted down the coast from taramasalata and red pepper and feta served with crisp, fried school prawns and Moreton Bay bugsBroadbeach to Burleigh Heads. soft white bread - just like you do in Greece, and tossed through spaghettini as starters as well asIn the heart of Broadbeach, wedged between moving on to more substantial dishes like char- a couple of varieties of oysters served natural.two towering Pepper’s Oracle Resorts is Social grilled calamari, dolmades filled with veal and There are six different types of fish served as filletsEating House, a casual eatery that is proving to rice and wrapped in silverbeet, pan fried chicken - coral trout from Cairns is steamed and servedbe very popular with tourists and locals alike. Entry livers, char-grilled Mooloolaba prawns and giant with a white wine and tarragon sauce, King Georgeis via the open kitchen and past the charcuterie octopus, there’s also hearty courses like pasticcio, whiting from Port Lincoln in South Australia is bakedcabinet where hefty legs of jamon Iberico de Cebo stifado, a six-hour braised beef stew and eggplant or crumbed and served with zucchini, lemon andand prosciutto di San Danielle hang alongside moussaka. Sides and salads are also popular olive oil and char-grilled Port Philip Bay snappera selection of truffled, fennel and chilli salumi, especially the potatoes cooked in lamb stock, comes with tomatoes, olives and capers. Wholewagyu bresaola and a couple of hearty terrines village salad and baby beets, and beet leaf salad. fish changes daily and fish and chips is rudderfishare on display. from Bermagui in NSW. The decor shares features The service is extremely polished and very with Hellenika - both have dark brick exterior and Served with soft baguette and EVOO you can mix friendly - you feel very “taken care of” and want for interiors mixed with richly painted walls sportingand match or share a selection of all on offer, or you nothing. Water and wine are constantly topped up modern artworks, both have bare wooden tablescan chose some shareable items from under the and the greetings are open and sincere. 2235 Gold and nicely starched napkins and both have large“things on toast”, the raw plates headings or the Coast Hwy, Nobby’s Beach; phone (07) 5572 8009. tables suitable for groups.small and large plates. Egg in a jar has a hen’s eggcrumbled over confit leg of duck and a pommes Hellenika’s sister restaurant is the much awarded Probably the big stand-out of both venues,puree with a truffled mushroom ragout. It’s certainly Fish House, at Burleigh Heads, just a couple of however, is the desire to “not do too much witha very rich dish as is the new season mushrooms beaches further south. As the name suggests, it’s the main ingredients”. Heavily influenced bywith garlic, white wine and porcini cream. a seafood restaurant specialising in sustainably southern Europe, dishes at the Fish House caught fish and shellfish all from the eastern (and Hellenika) use olive oil and lemon juice Larger plates need to be shared - unless you seaboard. There’s a daily selection of raw and instead of cream and butter. 50 Goodwin Tce,think you can handle a 1kg boneless saltbush lamb Burleigh Heads; phone (07) 5535 7725.shoulder, slow roasted in sheep’s milk yoghurt,mastic and lamb stock all served with a crisp slaw. Also at Burleigh is the stalwart with the serious views - Oscars perched quite literally over the surf Whole free range Barossa Valley chicken is break of the headland.scented with lemon, garlic, herbs and served withpan juices, and there’s also slow cooked pork belly The wide reach looks over the rolling waveswith cauliflower puree and sherry soaked prunes and down the winding white beach all the wayand crackling, and market fish that changes daily. through the ocean mist to the skyscrapers of Surfer’s Paradise. It’s a world class yet Deconstructed lemon meringue pie is a definite quintessentially Queensland outlook, alwayswinner and the perfect note of which to end a sporting cool sea breezes and always beautiful,meal - soft and tangy, crumbly brown butter base even in inclement weather.with a not-too-sweet coconut ice cream. S137,Oracle South, 3 Oracle Boulevard, Broadbeach; There’s a huge balcony with glass panelling sophone (07) 5504 5210. the view is unimpeded as well as two large spaces inside, again with glass walls that bring the ocean Heading south is Hellenika, a modern tavern- inside. Tables are crisp white clothed with modernstyle venue at Nobby’s Beach. Set within a strip seating and a large reception area that leads tomall with ample parking at the front, Hellenika is the separate bar.all about service and the delivery of fresh, healthyMediterranean-style dining. Oscars also specialises in seafood - think Spring Bay mussels, local flame snapper, yellow fin tuna sashimi - but there’s also an interesting selection of non-seafood dishes like grilled Rannoch quail with a red onion jam tart and crisp duck confit with warm kipfler salad and buttered asparagus. Oscars is 15 years old but has not lost any of its charm, keeping up with the changing styles and fashions of food and decor. Its proximity to the beach makes it the perfect spot for weddings, with brides and grooms exchanging vows and posing for the all-important pics in the sand below. 43 Goodwin Tce, Burleigh Heads; phone (07) 5576 3722. Above: Fish House exterior. Below: Simon Gloftis enjoys a bite. 47 Annual 2014 W I N E S TAT E

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVIN The choices offered to Melbournians is continually The wine list is varied, with wines from throughout phos, of which there are three. Small, shareable evolving as smart urban interpretations of good Asian Australia and New Zealand as well as Europe. Staff options include Ha Noi fish banh mi - a baguette restaurants pop up around the city. Restaurants will guide you through what drops go best with all with market fish - dressed with turmeric, dill and and eateries are taking classic Chinese and the nuanced flavours. 92 Smith St, Collingwood; mayonnaise, or the messy and old-school chicken Vietnamese food and giving both cuisines phone (03) 9077 6261. wings with chilli, lime and Maggi sauce (yes, contemporary twists; just like Longrain gave us you’re reading correctly). It’s this tongue-in-cheek modern Thai food and Tonka has shaken up how October also saw the opening of Vietnamese nod to Australian versions of Vietnamese food we see Indian cuisine, there are some new venues restaurant, Uncle, in St Kilda. The vibrant space with the foundation of authenticity that is seeing that are slick and urban but very approachable opened on Carlisle St, adding some much Uncle take off faster than a Vietnamese cyclone with menus of dishes containing varying layers of needed energy and colour to the strip. Owned could ever carry you. 188 Carlisle St, St Kilda; spices and textures to appeal to the ever-evolving by front-of-house manager Rene Spence, who phone (03) 9041 2668. Melbourne palate. Lee Ho Fook is one such place. was most recently at The Smith, in Prahran, The restaurant opened on Smith St, Collingwood, and Vietnamese chef Dai Duong, who was last Famish’d is the name of a well-established salad in early October and is the latest addition to the cooking at Dandelion, in Elwood. The pair have bar on Little Collins St in the heart of Melbourne now buzzing Smith St vibe. For ’70s music fans, created a colourful interior, thanks to city-based CBD and owner, former corporate lawyer Georgia the name Lee Ho Fook is taken from the rock studio Foolscap Design and managed to eschew Samuel, has just opened her second shop in the classic Werewolves of London, by Warren Zevon, clichè for more of a homage to Vietnamese new St James Development at 555 Bourke St at the and is located where the wine bistro Boire formerly culture through the clever use of oranges, reds, other end of our business district. Samuel opened operated. When Boire closed, the business was yellows and bamboo furnishings. There’s a large the first shop three years ago after feeling frustrated bought by restaurateurs Peter Bartholomew space upstairs and a shmick roof terrace that at the “limited healthy lunch options in the city”. and David Mackintosh who co-own the MoVida is amping up summer afternoons in south-east Her second store is the first food venue to open restaurants and Pei Modern in the city. They bought Melbourne. Spence’s wife, Ruth Laird Spence, in the development on the corner of Bourke and chef Victor Liong down from Sydney, who has of Fork Ceramics, has created all the crockery William streets. The menu has remained the same, strong credentials after good stints at Marque for the menu which blends traditional Vietnamese filled with salads like the Olive Grove, a mix of restaurant with Mark Best and at Mr Wong’s. It with the flexibility of the inner-city. Order a Pho Bo, pesto pasta, olives, spinach and mayonnaise and was through Liong’s connection with Best - who a Vietnamese beef noodle soup in a small or large dijon mustard dressing, or the Mexican Fiesta, a is involved in Pei Modern - that Liong is now size as an entree or meal; this applies to all the jumble of tomato, corn, jalapenos, beans and corn heading up the small 40-seater with an additional chips. Famish’d is particular about their coffee, bar area that is designed to be an approachable using South Melbourne’s St Ali blend, and there environment where diners can drop in for a quick are a vast array of good sandwiches in a section meal or settle in for a few courses. Liong’s menu titled, “Cure my Hangover”, it’s here you’ll find is broad, not specifically based on regionality good ham, tomato and cheese toasties or a Mushy but certainly based on elegant flavoursome Madness filled with mushrooms, pecorino cheese compositions, with starters like crispy eggplant and pesto. If you find yourself in the city, short on and spiced red vinegar caramel, or beef tartar, time but yearning for goodness, this could be the toasted seaweed and puffed buckwheat. There’s a stop you’re looking for. 555 Bourke St, Melbourne; sang choi bao filled with dry fried wagyu beef and phone (03) 9614 4905. carrot, and the red-braised lamb belly with shiitake mushroom yuba, bamboo and chrysanthemum Award-winning bar owner and accomplished has elements of earthy complexity and textures. bartender Michael Madrusan, of The Everleigh in Fitzroy, has opened a new room behind his48 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014 much-lauded business for the crowds looking for a seat at his beautiful broody venue. Called The Elk Room, it is also intended as a private function space for parties and events. The room carries on the narrative thread of The Everleigh but is the masculine ying to The Everleigh’s feminine yang. There are burly chesterfields, sweeping rugs, moody lighting, deer heads on the walls and a bar that is stocked visually and professionally - it is a striking room. Madrusan can organise catering if needed and opens the space to the public on Friday and Saturday evenings from 8pm if it’s not booked for an event. It’s comfortable for about 65 people and the martinis in there are just as good as they are next door. 1/150-156 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; phone (03) 9416 2229. Above: Uncle interior - Martina Gemmola. Right: Famish’d fare.

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wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES 1988 Chateau d’Yquem achieving $793. Burgundy is also gaining momentum with a LANGTON’S WINE Aruecptioonrts AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE significant number of bottles of Domaine de la Weekly internet auctions held centrally LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS Romanee-Conti (DRC) going under the hammer. December 17-January 7 (INTERIM FOURTH-QUARTER MARKET REPORT, Recent highlights include 1980 DRC Romanee- January 7-14 by ANDREA PRITZKER) Conti achieving $5750 and a bottle of 1994 DRC La January 14-21 Tache achieving $1610. Bottles of white burgundy January 21-28 The final and busiest quarter of the year is well have also performed well, evidenced by a magnum January 28-February 4 underway at Langton’s. Our weekly auctions are of 2008 Domaine Leflaive Les Pucelles 1er cru February 4-11 now centralised, drawing stock from across the Puligny-Montrachet achieving $460 and a magnum February 11-18 country which has increased both the breadth of 2009 Francois Raveneau Valmur Grand Cru February 18-25 and depth of wines for sale each week. During Chablis fetching $357. February 25-March 4 the first month of the quarter, in addition to our Visit www.langtons.com.au for regular weekly auctions, we have also held a trio Outside of burgundy, old and rare vintages of information about special themed of special themed auctions, including ‘Fabulous champagne are proving popular with a recent auctions. France’, ‘Celebrating the ’90s’ and S’eriously Italian’ highlight, a bottle of 1976 Moet & Chandon Dom - giving buyers the opportunity to browse a number Perignon Oenotheque Brut Champagne achieving STERLING WINE AUCTIONS of themed catalogues. $1270. Top Rhone has also fared well so far this Auctions run every two weeks, back-to- quarter with 2009 Chateau De Beaucastel Cuvee back, finishing on Wednesday evening. Demand for imported wine continues to grow, Hommage Jacques Perrin Chateauneuf-du-Pape particularly at the top end. Stock flows in this sector realising $575, 1995 Chateau Rayas Reserve ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS are increasing, buoyed by strong price realisations Chateauneuf-du-Pape achieving $592 and a bottle of January 14 (closes December 13) for many blue-chip wines. France is dominating the 2005 Guigal La Mouline Cote-Rotie attaining $713. February 11 (closes January 17) sales, with wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy March 11 (closes February 14) providing the majority of both sales volume and While it is still early days in the context of Italian sale value. Top growth Bordeaux is selling well, wines on the Australian secondary market, our GRAYSONLINE confirmed by recent hammer results, including special ‘Seriously Italian’ auction saw several top Daily wine auctions, starting from $9 2009 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild realising $1581 wines from both Piedmont and Tuscany attract per case, with a 30-day money back and 1986 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild achieving significant attention. Highlights included 2000 guarantee. Fine wine auctions end $2185. Some very old and rare vintages also Bruno Giacosa Falletto Riserva Barolo achieving Monday-Wednesday-Thursday each went under the hammer recently, including an $736 and 2009 Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia Masseto week. imperial of 1934 Chateau Gruaud-Larose attaining Bolgheri attaining $463. With a substantial Port and spirit auctions end on $3174 and 1955 Chateau Gilette Creme de Tete increase in the number of top quality Italian wines Tuesdays. Sauternes fetching $565. Bottles of top sauternes now on the primary market, we expect to see a also performed well, with a bottle of 2001 Chateau bigger presence of premium Italian wines on the CRACKA WINES d’Yquem Sauternes attaining $1035 and a bottle of secondary market in years to come. Live wine auctions every day at 8pm There was a flurry of sales of super-premium (All dates subject to change, American wines early in the fourth quarter. Rarely without notice) seen on the Australian secondary market in any volume, highlights included a magnum of 199550 W I N E S TAT E Annual 2014 Harlan Estate Red Wine, Napa Valley achieving $1610 and a bottle of 1996 Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley fetching $661. On the domestic front, the market barometer Penfolds Grange has performed solidly so far this quarter. Recent highlights include a bottle of 1961 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz achieving $1707, 1998 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz attaining $639 and a bottle of 1971 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz fetching $805. Magnums also continue to track solidly as evidenced by the sale of a 2002 vintage Penfolds Grange Magnum for $1266 and a magnum of 1979 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange realising $1366. Australian blue-chip fine wine is also performing well, particularly from classified producers. Recent highlights include an anniversary year bottle of 1973 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz achieving $635 and a bottle of 2010 Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot