Raw Material Preparation Spinning the yarn: • The selection and preparation of raw materials serve as • After being processed, the wool is spun into yarn. To the process's foundation. Wool is the main component of speed up the procedure, modern artists may employ spin- weaving and is frequently obtained locally from sheep ning wheels instead of the drop spindle that was used and other livestock. Often stores in the Kullu local mar- traditionally. To prepare it for weaving, the spun yarn is ket are used to purchase ready-made yarn. The wool is threaded into bobbins or spools.` carefully washed and processed to remove any impurities and guarantee consistency in quality and texture. Department of Fashion Technology 51
Warping Designing and Pattern Setting • Setting up the vertical threads on the loom during the es- • The master weaver chooses the fabric's pattern and de- sential process of warping. The warp, or length of yarn, is sign before beginning the weaving process. Depending stretched and organized in parallel. Precision is necessary on the complexity of the design, this can be accomplished at this stage since the warp's breadth and tension influ- by memorization and experience. ence the final fabric's size and quality. 52 Craft Research Document 2023
Weaving: Beating and Tension Adjustment: • The weaver starts the actual weaving process after setting • A beater, which resembles a comb, is used by the weav- up the loom and visualizing the design. A shuttle or other er to press each weft thread firmly against the cloth that similar equipment is used to weave the warp threads and has already been woven once it has been introduced. A the horizontal weft yarn together. The weaver carefully compact and even texture is therefore guaranteed. To en- follows the selected pattern, making sure that each thread sure uniformity throughout the fabric, the weaver also is positioned properly to produce the intended design. frequently modifies the warp's tension. Department of Fashion Technology 53
Chasami • The geometric motifs are made of geometric patterns that are known to be originated from Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Also the colors that are being used deliver a quite obvious resemblance to Tibetan Buddhist motifs. Bulbul Chasm / Katu Chasam • Bulbul Chasm / Katu Chasam - Inspired from a Nightan- gle's Eye made in such a manner that a bright colored dot is surrounded by dark colors. 54 Craft Research Document 2023
Guddi Lehri • It is a geometric motif it's structure is basically is origi- nated from waves and represent a continuous wave gen- erally used on kulluvi shawls Swastik • It is a geometric motif it's structure is basically is origi- nated from waves and represent a continuous wave gen- erally used on kulluvi shawls Department of Fashion Technology 55
MARKET • Kullu textile sector thrives in national and international markets, offering traditional handwoven textiles popular among diverse customer groups. • Kullu textiles are cherished in indigenous communities' cultural heritage, woven with meticulous craftsmanship for traditional attire. • Local residents embrace these textiles as symbols of their identity and heritage, while tour- ists visiting the region eagerly seek them as authentic souvenirs and tokens of remembrance. • Kullu textiles, renowned for their exquisite designs and high-quality wool, have gained popularity in India. Accessible through retail outlets, handicraft stores, and ex- hibitions, these timeless textiles are popular for winter wear and home decor. • Kullu textiles, a sustainable and handcrafted trend, have gained popularity among con- scientious consumers worldwide. Exporters and online marketplaces have introduced these unique, authentic textiles to international markets, attracting discerning audiences. • The Indian government promotes and safeguards traditional crafts like Kullu textiles through fairs, exhi- bitions, and financial support, enhancing visibility and facilitating integration into domestic and interna- tional markets.` 56 Craft Research Document 2023
GOVERNMENT SCHEMES India's handicraft and handloom industries are essential to the nation's economic and cultural legacy. The handicrafts indus- try alone, according to the Ministry of Textiles, employs close to 70 lakh people. Millions of artisans are employed in the sec- tor, which produces textiles and has a long tradition of handcraft stretching back thousands of years, especially in rural areas. National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) • A central sector plan scheme called the National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP) has been created for the fiscal years 2021–2022– 2025–2026. • The strategy would use a need-based approach to provide weavers with raw materials, design inputs, technology upgrades, marketing help through exhibits, and permanent infrastructure in order to promote the holistic growth of handlooms and the welfare of handloom weavers. • The cluster growth strategy places a strong emphasis on the emergence of each group as a distinct, visible entity. • This handloom-focused cluster will be established at the Block level, and depending on the number of handlooms in a block, more than one cluster may be taken up in that block. • Building and promoting marketing channels in both the domestic and export markets, as well as forging a comprehensive and integrated connection between them, are the objectives of the handloom marketing assistance. • India is renowned for its superb craftsmanship, unique designs, and wide variety of handicrafts, which include wooden sculptures, textiles, pottery, and more. Handloom Weaver's Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS) • The programme aims to provide an affordable, universal Social Security to handloom workers and weavers across the country. • Protection from natural death, accidental death, and total and partial disability is provided by insurance. • Children of handloom weavers and workers are given financial aid in the form of scholarships of up to Rs. 2 lakhs each year so that they can attend textile institutes. • The Handloom Weavers Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS) provides life, accident, and disability insurance coverage through the Pradhan Mantri Jeevan Jyoti Bima Yojana (PMJJBY), Pradhan Mantri Suraksha Bima Yojana (PMSBY), and Converged Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana (MGBBY) programmes. Department of Fashion Technology 57
Weavers Mudra Scheme • The program's goal is to give banks the ability to quickly and effectively meet the nation's handloom industry's credit needs for term loans and working capital. • Under the Weaver MUDRA Scheme, credit is made available to handloom weavers at a preferential 6% interest rate. Weavers are additionally given a 3-year credit guarantee and a maximum of Rs. 10,000 in margin money support. • MUDRA Portal has been built in partnership with Punjab National Bank to minimise delays in the disbursement of cash for margin money and interest subvention. • The margin money support is sent directly to the weaver's loan account, and the portal is used to transfer the interest subsidies to the banks. Yarn Supply Scheme • The Yarn Supply Scheme (YSS) is being implemented across the country by the National Handloom Development Corporation to make all types of yarn available at Mill Gate Price. Under the Scheme, all types of yarn are eligible for freight cost reimbursement. • Hank yarn made of cotton, domestic silk, wool and linen is also qualified for a 10% price discount with quantity restrictions. • To promote a consistent supply of necessary raw materials to the handloom sector and help the sector realise its full employment potential, the goal is to make all types of yarn available to competent handloom weavers at Mill Gate Prices. • The program maintains weavers' participation in the handloom sector by providing superior quality yarn at lower prices than the open market through depots. 58 Craft Research Document 2023
METHODOLOGY The unique artistic expressions and cultural relevance of the crafts are understood through a methodical and multidisci- plinary approach in this documentation. We stayed in Kullu for 7-8 days to observe the locals' way of life and everyday routine. To comprehend the process and authenticity of the trade, we collaborated with a handicraft business called Apple Village Shawls, which sells and makes goods using a handloom. We as a team conducted fieldwork in Kullu and neighboring areas to gather primary data. Engaging with local artisans, craftsmen, and crafts- women to understand their experiences, techniques, and cultural practices related to the crafts. We observed the craft production processes, visit workshops, and document the materials, tools, and methods used. This methodology involves the systematic examination and documentation of the crafts, weaving &knitting, that have been passed down through generations. Artisans and experts carefully observe the techniques, materials, and tools used in the creation of these crafts, aiming to preserve and promote the rich cultural heritage of the region. The craft study of Kullu also entails in-depth research into the historical significance and social context of these crafts, providing valuable insights into the unique artistic expressions of the local communities. By understanding and appreciating the craftsmanship of Kullu, this methodology seeks to create awareness about the importance of sustaining these age-old traditions and fostering a sense of pride and identity among the artisans and the wider community. Department of Fashion Technology 59
OBJECTIVE The objective of a craft study on Kullu textiles is to explore and document the rich tradition and craftsmanship connected to the ar- ea's textile sector. The Himachal Pradesh city of Kullu is well known for its traditional handwoven textiles, especially woolen fabrics. Craft study explores Kullu textiles' origins and development, examining methods, abilities, and aesthetic sensitivities used by regional craftspeople. This involves looking into every step of the procedure, from the source of basic materials like sheep wool to the methods used for dying, spinning, and weaving. we aim to promote Kullu textile preservation and appreciation, raising awareness about conventional techniques, financial implications, and sustain- able development. The study serves as a resource for academics, designers, and amateurs interested in Kullu textiles. 60 Craft Research Document 2023
ABOUT SWOT Strategic planning often starts with or continues with the use of SWOT analysis. The framework is regarded as a decision-making tool since it aids a business in locating previously overlooked clients who can help it succeed. The study may also help a business identify a market area where it has a competitive advantage. In addition, it can alert people to potential risks and direct them into a vocation that best utilises their talents. When this type of research is used to actually discover and take into consideration artisan issues or company and concerns, the best results may be possible. As a result, a multidisciplinary, cross-functional team that is willing to share ideas commonly participates in SWOT analysis. The analysis should be used to aid an entity in gaining understanding of its present and potential future positions in the market in many worldwide aspects. Department of Fashion Technology 61
S: O: • Kullu Artisans have a strong local network for • Growing their item to meet the more scope of raw material sources. client needs. • Kullu artisans have practical knowledge about • Utilization of advancements to reduce expenses tasks. decisively. • They have solid monetary conditions. • Possibility to gain market share from rival. • They cater broadly perceived client base mar- • Securing opponent firms with appealing inno- ket. vative skills. • They have product variation abilities. T: W: • Passage of the new advanced contenders. • Kullu Craft business has no spotless strategies • Loss of deals to substitute items. and directions. • Industry opponents might cause a crush on • The outdated method of working. overall revenues. • They have Higher general unit costs. • Antagonistic changes in unfamiliar trade rates • They have very low productivity and no ex- and exchange approaches of unfamiliar legisla- pense control measure. tures. • Falling behind rivals in putting e-commerce. • Expensive new administrative necessities. • Not drawing in new clients as quickly as ri- • Developing the dealing force of clients/provid- ers. vals.. 62 Craft Research Document 2023
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