UFASHON MAGAZINE FW2020-21

© GUO PE1I

© MAURIZIO GALANTE PH: LILI ROZE 2

3

4

© IRIS VAN HERPEN 5

6

© MAZZANTI PIUME7

© CHAUMETT 8

9

10

© GUO PEI 11

12

© MANGANI 1958 13

14

© PESTELLI CREAZIONI 15

16

© ANTICO SETIFICIO FIORENTINO 17

18

© VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Ph: MAS TASSINI STUDI1O9

20

© CASTORINA 21

22

© L’IPPOGRIFO STAMPE D’ARTE 23

24

© PESTELLI CREAZIONI 25

26

CONTENT INDEX AN EPOCH-MAKING TRANSFORMATION 29 AELIS COUTURE ART IS THE MOST INTERESTING FORM 32 27 OF HUMAN EXPRESSION 36 AGANOVICH - LE GRAND CIRQUE 42 ARGENTIERE PAGLIAI - ART AND TRADITION 46 50 ALEXIS MABILLE - ATTITUDE 56 ANTONIO GRIMALDI - ÆLEKTRA MAZZANTI PIUME - SMALL PRECIOUS 66 72 AND REFINED WORKS OF ART 80 AZZARO COUTURE - SEEDY TRICKS 86 94 PESTELLI CREAZIONI 104 ARNOLD & SON - ULTRATHIN TOURBILLON KOI 116 126 CHANEL 136 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS - PIERRES PRÉCIEUSES 144 156 ANTICO SETIFICIO FIORENTINO 162 ELIE SAAB - BEIRUT, THE SACRED SOURCE 166 176 PIAGET - WINGS OF LIGHT 180 MAISON FRANCK SORBIER - IL MEDICO DELLA PESTE 190 192 LE SIBILLE - WEARING PRECIOUS WORKS OF ART 196 GEORGES CHAKRA, TIMELESS ELEGANCE 200 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI - LA VILLE LUMIÈRE 204 GUO PEI - SAVANNAH 210 IRIS VAN HERPEN - TRANSMOTION 214 SAMATEX - FASHION FUTURE 222 230 JEAN PAUL GAULTIER - THE SHOW MUST GO ON 234 ANTICA FORNACE MARIANI M.I.T.A.L. - ANCIENT ART CRAFTS 240 246 MAISON RABIH KAYROU - THE STORY OF A DRESS 256 MAURIZIO GALANTE - A PROMISE 262 266 RAHUL MISHRA - BUTTERFLY PEOPLE 274 CASTORINA - A PASSION FOR WOOD 280 RALPH & RUSSO - A SPECIAL EXPERIENCE 286 290 PERSPECTIVES DE CHAUMET 294 PARIONE - TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES ANTICA OCCHIALERIA - EXCLUSIVE GLASSES 300 SCHIAPARELLI - COLLECTION IMAGINAIRE 306 STÉPHANE ROLLAND - A WOMAN AS A QUEEN PAOLO PENKO - TIMELESS JEWELRY WALTER DE SILVA FRATELLI PICCINI - A SUCCESS STORY ULYANA SERGEENKO - THE MAGNIFICENCE OF DETAILS XUAN - WINDOWS OF INFINITY APROSIO & CO - A SOPHISTICATED BEAUTY L’IPPOGRIFO STAMPE D’ARTE BRANDIMARTE - BEAUTY AND MERITS IN THE DAILY USE OF SILVER YANINA COUTURE - A TRIBUTE TO THE BEAUTY OF LIFE MANGANI 1958 - A PRESTIGIOUS HISTORY UFASHON.COM

©28IRIS VAN HERPEN Ph: Valentine Bouquet

AN EPOCH-MAKING TRANSFORMATION The Covid-19 epidemic marks an epoch-making transformation. We are entering a new phase of modern history. The celebrated individualistic hedonism of the new millennium emerged as part of a surreptitious social nominalism which denied the effective existence of shared experience; a vision which thwarted efforts to dominate the virus, and simultaneou- sly denied us the pleasure of mutuality. Today a new spirit of the times has rekindled interest in context, that inalienable di- mension of the human condition. To be sure, this emerging concern repels the archaic and rigid models of the past, favoring effervescent creativity based on the galvanizing effect of the imagination, even in human relations. The fashion world is well aware of this transition. The momentary hiatus in the collective novelty-celebrating ritual of the fashion show which has always been part of the fashion system, imposed substitution with extraordinary video material revealing stunning capacity to transmit a message and stir an enduring emotional response. But none of this splendor will ever be an adequate proxy for conventional fashion shows with the sacralization they make possible through human presence. This is one dimension of an emerging sensitivity, the compelling appeal of a time- less pleasure: the return to a congregation that is not only virtual. The other new dimension – novel yet archaic – is contact with the physical world. It is no longer sufficient to experience material things through artifice: there is a re- turn to the direct experience of the world which is also an emotion. This return to the ability to savor the world as it is, embraces pleasure gradually re- vealed through the mystery engendered by a profound understanding of materials and practices. It is a return to the object as an essence framing the human condition: the product of culture, ability, place. We are entering a new historical phase, a new opportunity for those who deploy deep knowledge and experience to create objects of absolute beauty, peerless quality. UFASHON MAGAZINE HAUTE COUTURE bears witness to the couturier’s extra- ordinary Haute Couture activities which make available to the public every season wonderfully exclusive high fashion creations. Our maisons involve extraordinary artisans who use their consummate skills to turn Haute Couture creations into works of art, supremely wrought objects of unique value. Gregory Overton Smith D.Phil. (Oxford) Professor of Anthropology and Sociology Temple University Rome 29

30

31

AELIS COUTURE ART IS THE MOST INTERESTING FORM OF HUMAN EXPRESSION 3322

33

©34AELIS COUTURE

A couture dress can thus become a message, expressing inner beauty to the world. Digital haute couture is a contemporary and interesting idea that inspired me to work with a new vision, and to involve in this process my friend and Artist Jacopo Godani. Jacopo’s work consists of live art performances. The moving bodies of the dancers help him share and shape his reflection on sustainability and on the impact of humankind on the planet. I invited him to meet AELIS and discuss our ecological and ethical vision. As friends, we have always shared our love and respect for nature and all kinds of beauty. His creativity has inspired me constantly and his graceful and moving creations have always had the power to generate strong emotional reactions. Dance as an Art form has always been present in my life and has certainly influenced my cre- ations. All our dresses are conceived by following the movement of the fabric when draped around the body. And the dress finally comes alive when a woman wears it. The idea to work with Jacopo came from a mutual desire that sprang from our common ae- sthetic and ethical vision. Our hope is to convey a message of beauty that will trigger a regene- rating process, involving a new consciousness of our place in this world. In this moment of deep reflection, with humanity locked down, the planet has begun to rege- nerate. Beauty and femininity have inspired this entire collection. When conceiving the dresses, I was driven by the rhythm of a silent movie, but also inspired by the beauty of Francesca Bertini and Theda Bara, Man Ray portraits, and nymphs from Greek and Roman mythology. The female essence of Echo, Egeria, Eurydice, and the powerful beauty of the Sistine Chapel are evoked in “Angelness”, the art performance film directed by Jacopo Godani. We believe that femininity is not related to human gender. The physiological aspect of being born male or female has nothing to do with femininity. What drives us to continue and present this new project is the hope that humanity will change one day and will act responsibly and live sustainably, to slow down consumeristic lifestyle and preserve the world. Inspiration comes from motion and emotion. It is the energy from which beauty originates. In our post-apocalyptic vision, Jacopo Godani’s dancers, who look like fallen angels or wondrous monsters, become the new Muses and share this energy, giving birth to new AELIS creations. WATCH THE VIDE3O5

AGANOVICH LE GRAND CIRQUE 36

37

38

39

“In the Autumn of 2019 Erik Ma studio in Paris ‘ready to play’ rupted day on his own in our animation there was loose o the material. The film never happened and ned upside down. When the FHCM announced w our our first post-Covid outing longtime friend and collabora After 3 months of intense em Le Grand Cirque is both an od our inspirations while giving u into the medium we love.” 4©0AGANOVICH

adigan Heck appeared at our ’. He just wanted an uninter- r studio. A fan of stop-motion objective to make a film with d very soon the world had tur- we would be going digital for g we naturally thought of our ator and the unfinished work. motions and self-questioning de to his heroes and a nod to us a much needed kick back WATCH THE VID41EO

4422

ARGENTIERE PAGLIAI ART AND TRADITION 43

Argentiere Pagliai is one of the last silver- ration of a Company, founded almost a smiths with its own workshop in Borgo century ago by Orlando Pagliai, which San Iacopo, the heart of medieval Flo- still today maintains the high reputation rence. Paolo Pagliai plies his craft here, of Florentine silversmiths. Argentiere Pa- assisted by a bright young team that he gliai, a reference point for antiquarians, has ‘cultivated and created’ and young collectors and long-standing clients trainees who are still learning. Alongside from all over Italy, is also recognized as a him are his wife Raffaella and daughter prestigious Florentine Historic Company. Stefania, who represents the third gene- 44

© ARGENTIERE PAGLIA4I 5

46

ALEXIS MABILLE ATTITUDE 47

Given the strange times we are going through, it was clear that I would have to work differently this season. Unlike previous collections, fabrics were the starting point of my creative process. With the global lockdown around the world, we couldn’t order new materials, so I decided to work only with the ones we already had in the atelier, in a sustainable spirit. From there emerged a fascinating exercise in associations of textu- res and colours, a very enriching experience. I also wanted to dedicate this collection to the joy that is part and parcel of my profession, to the pleasure of creating, to the desire to showcase the know-how of the hands in my atelier. “Attitude” embodies this spirit. Colours form a palette, each con- nected with a mood, with a sensation. Contrasts are free and happy, hues intense and vibrant. I let my pencil dance on paper, sketching silhouettes, pure without being minimal, that follow the body in its movement, enhancing it and hi- ghlighting materials through the needle’s artistry. Jersey kisses curves, fluid chiffon velvet drapes on them, crepe suggests them. Nods to the masculine play with delicate details of laces, embroideries, jewels, and furs. More than ever, elegance and sensuality are the red thread woven throughout this collection, along with my long-held respect and love for the female form. It’s my vision of an attitude, a call for optimism, an invitation to smile. WATCH THE VIDEO 48

© ALEXIS MABILLE 49

ANTONIO GRIMALDI ÆLEKTRA 50