SPECIAL-EDITION-CLICK-and-MORTAR-

1 Dress: Gianni Calignano Ph: Silvio Bursomanno

CONTENT INDEX CLICK and MORTAR 6 HOLIDAY SEASON, PIAGET 8 FLEURS EN SOIE, ROMEO GIGLI 16 NATURAL SHAPES, BOTTEGA 23 24 A NEW DIMENSION, LE SIBILLE 32 40 EMOTIONAL, TATRAS 48 PERPETUAL MOON OBSIDIAN, ARNOLD & SON 54 64 HYMNE A LA VIE, ELIE SAAB 68 WEARING LUXURY, LEDURAN 76 78 MES DEMOISELLES PARIS 84 THEODORA 90 94 HOROSCOPE, MISSONI HOME 98 LEGEND OF THE WHITE SNAKE, JUDY ZHANG 102 110 ELMIRA MEDINS 116 HOME, OCTAVIO PIZARRO 120 126 MATE CASHMERE 132 SAY IT WITH YOUR EYES, LUISSTYLE 140 144 ART ON SILK, ALIDA LIBERALE 150 COUNTRY CHIC, VERAROAD 154 162 MINIATURES BETWEEN SENSITIVITY & CRAFTSMANSHIP, BONA CALVI 167 BEAUTY & SEDUCTION, ELISABETTA DELOGU 178 182 MAGNIFICENT HANDMADE OBJECT, ACH COLLECTION 188 BAIADERA 196 200 REBIRTH ITALY, ECOFASHION JEWELRY 204 PAST PRESENT, SARAH MOON A NONCHALANT ELEGANCE, STÉPHANE ROLLAND THE TEXTURAL BEAUTY OF CERAMICS, MALENE KNUDSEN AMALGA, LEANDRO CANO FISH COLLECTION SHOES, CARLA FOCA GIOA FASHION DESIGNER MADE IN ITALY YANINA DEMI-COUTURE THE NATURAL SHAPES OF BRIAR FOR LUXURY BAGS, DA&LO SOFIA ALEMANI, FASHION CREATIVE ART DE LA TABLE, KASANOVA 2

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CLICK and MORTAR Click and mortar is wonderfully euphonic, a wordplay on the expression brick and mortar. The latter phrase conveys an idea of solidity and per- manence, while the term click introduces the notion of online marketing and sales. The expression dates to the 1990s, and has been adop- ted by major retailers who are noted especially for com- peting on price. In the luxury sector competition on price is not feasible, since luxury products partake in a complex value chain all based on the supreme quality of raw materials and artisan skills. In this sector every product is unique, diffe- rent from any other. It is correspondingly senseless to talk about compa- rative shopping. In this sector the client or prospective customer must be seduced by the product in a circum- stance where price is a secondary factor. Internet is a useful way to communicate product know- ledge to a broader public, revealing the multiple factors which are critical to maintaining absolute quality and ori- ginality. Through the click and mortar operations provided by UFASHON, authentic luxury producers can illustrate their quality standards. This facilitates the emotional response elicited by any encounter with the incommensurate. Gregory Overton Smith, D.Phil. (Oxford.) Temple University Rome Dress: Gianni Calignano Ph Silvio Bursomanno Model: Margherita Cardinalini Hairstyle: Gianni Lerario Tonio & Gina Parrucchieri Make Up Artist: Roberta Apos Officina Paar Embroidery: Terry Ricami Embroidery: Decores Embrodery 6 Shoes Claudio Merazzi

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PIAGET HOLIDAY SEASON 8

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As the snow starts to fall over the Swiss village of La Côte-aux-Fées, Piaget’s manufacture will soon be covered in a thick white blanket. From the work- shop’s windows overlooking this winter wonderland, Piaget’s watchmakers and jewellers marvel at the beauty of the snowflakes as they fall, each one uni- que, like the diamonds that adorn the Maison’s timepieces and jewellery. Piaget’s artisans are busy preparing for the holiday season with an array of ex- traordinary creations imbued with spar- kle, joy, and happiness. 11

Possession has always been a compa- nion that inspires its owners to take con- trol of their lives and make their dreams come true. With every spin, twist or turn, this beautiful talisman releases its ma- gic to bring luck and happiness to its owner. Joining the Possession timepie- ces, the Maison is unveiling a selection of Possession jewellery creations that all playfully “Turn for Extraordinary”. From rings to bangles and sliding pen- dants, they are all unique like snowflakes 12

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ROMEO GIGLI FLEURS EN SOIE 17

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“A flower is a gift. A message of hope, joy, and beauty, which lights the darkest of moments and lifts the spirits. The wo- man who wears these dresses, wears a flower, a gift of eter- nal beauty.” The SS_2021 Romeo Gigli collection stems from a real sense of awareness, from a need to offer something different, com- pared to the more traditional collection, and create a more affirmative, concrete idea of a positive change, starting with a return to great Italian craftsmanship and the ethics of du- rability. Fifteen exclusive, hand-made dresses, the most precious examples of Made in Italy. These garments are created in the most exclusive sartorial workshops in the Milanese area, with silks from Como - conceived with a non-seasonal vision, for a long-lasting and timeless wardrobe. The soul of the collection has its roots in the current histori- cal moment and blossoms into a special project with, at its heart, an alchemy of idealism and poetry: Ale s sa n d r o De Be n e d e t t i creates each dress with the intent of adorning every woman with an ode to femininity, drawing on intense corolla-reminiscent colors to paint a message of positivity and formulate, with hand-made excellence, an invitation to rediscover the importance of high-craftsmanship. To accom- plish this, he has immersed himself in the fascinating world of flowers, imagining in them spontaneous iconographic re- ferences and recreating the unforgettable aesthetic heritage of Romeo Gigli: embracing his passion for the styles of the Nineteenth century, evolving them, transporting them to the 1940s, where, thanks to Charles James’ experimental coutu- re, he rediscovers a taste for elegant craftsmanship, presen- ting a new, modern elegance. Each dress is a creation, made from six to fifteen meters of silk, transformed, as if by magic, into contemporary sculp- tures: lightweight, perfect. High fashion masterpieces which find their final form in Alessandro De Benedetti’s love of the bias cut, the way the fabric comes to life on the mannequin, flowing with sinuous refinement on the body, molding it to create delicate drapes and glimpses of sensuality. Like a coup-de-théâtre, each silhouette is a work of har- mony, sophistication, and seduction, where apparent auste- rity gives way to touches of stylistic mastery, revealing naked skin as an elegant, erotic surprise. 21

Precious masterpieces, each one different, made unique by the floral colors, animated by a cinema-inspired vision. Each dress has a specific name and its own backstory, hi- ghlighted by another passion that connects De Benedetti to Romeo Gigli: the sublime art of knots. A perfect example of this is The B l a c k D a hl i a . It takes its named from both the flower and the titular character of the famous novel, while washed rouge noir satin, one of Romeo Gigli’s most beloved colors, and black chiffon, form its sculpted drapes and pleats. These fascinating, hand-worked details are present in every dress: the knots become macro, and marvelous pink petals bloom on the shoulders of what could be the dress of an artist. In the Pr i m ul a dress, petals become subtle slits, re- vealing glimpses of naked flesh, but the real gem here is the crocheted fretwork on silk, hinting at drop-shaped flashes of skin. On the other hand, the petals of the Sab i ne dress are entwined, tied by a sensual sash that opens to reveal a breathtaking split on the lower back, the Bl a c k G a r de n i a dress embodies a bouquet of tiny knots at the base of the low-cut lower back, in a symphony of lavender and burgun- dy shades, reflected in the pleats of the skirt, cut to create the illusion of spikes of lavender, peeking out from the knots as the dress moves. The astonishing effect of skillful bias-cuts does the rest. From a macro-triangle, we see the creation of a kimono-inspired sleeve which, in turn, with the addition of a strategic ruffle, forms an asymmetrical collar. Super-light habutai silk takes flight to become a soft, puff-sleeve, the support of an organ- za lining brings a canes satin sleeve to life, and two simple pleats create a lean, dramatic sleeve. Sleeves becomes huge abstract bows, pleated, and structured to create a kimono in homage to the character of Valentina. What may seem an affectation of creativity are intuitions of an improved fun- ctionality: the dresses have honeycombed elastic smocking, targeting a greater wearability, whereas the gloves, ruffs and the pleated chiffon cuffs have tiny buttons for easy removal. Chiffon is the essence of lightness and the perfect fabric for the beguiling figures of De Benedetti’s cinematic vision: The V ert i g o dress, with the distinctive icy finesse of Hitchcock’s iconic women and the perfection of the micro-plissé. Jean Rollin was inspired by the sophistication of Hitchcock’s vam- pire women and The B r i de W or e B l a c k dress is a vision of a woman enveloped by a mysterious cloud of smoke, the same shade as the chiffon of her dress. 22 ROMEOGIGLI.IT

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Passion, culture and art are the key words of BOTTEGA 23, a brand of luxury footwear for women, rigorously Made in Italy, which over the years has been able to conquer a national and international market, thanks to its extraordinary abili- ty to study shapes and lines and using, for the production of its collections, only and exclusively raw materials of excel- lent quality. 26

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The jewelry made by Le Sibille is of en- chanting beauty and absolute savoir faire, authentic artworks of high Made in Italy craftsmanship. Le Sibille operates in a beautiful labora- tory-showroom in the heart of Rome com- bining myth, art, history and design. Here they create jewelry of extraordinary beau- ty and elegance using a technique which combines modern design with the highest stylistic standards. 39

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TATRAS “EMOTIONAL” SS2021 COLLECTION 4141

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TATRAS S/S 2021, which is announced digitally, car- ries a strong message of encouragement to pursue light and hope that we will never lose sight of. The “emotional” element has been expressed from the use of eyes and body language throughout the film. Set in a desert (or Mars) with only few vegetation, the video reminds us of a new foreign world that has not been explored yet. In the vast, beautiful, and harsh nature, we will find ourselves in loneliness while feeling the need of hu- man interaction. TATRAS Spring/Summer collection showcases the beauty of molding, materials, and graphics created and built by the power and energy of human con- nection, respecting all the individuals and their iden- tities. The jacquard knitting pattern and the drape design are inspired by traditional folk costumes, represen- ting their evolution. Styles and materials have been designed to allow the garments to be used in any climatic condition, such as sandstorms or very strong winds. The garments printed on linen, with a light but re- sistant texture, represent the designs of an oasis, a symbol of hope and life, to move strongly towards a new future 43

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ARNOLD & SON PERPETUAL MOON OBSIDIAN 4488

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