FINAL

["101 Salangai - Dancers\u2019 anklets are called Salangai. This ornament is adorned with tiny bells that resemble raindrops. This design is typically seen on Kanchipuram sarees as a border of flower motifs arranged in rows. Vanki - Vanki is a term for an armlet with a distinctive inverted V-shaped pattern. The worship of snakes is supposedly tied to the creation of this theme. The saree\u2019s border features an intricate pattern made up of angular lines in the vanki motif. *posts by Sreemathy Mohan, V. all. (2018), \u201cMotifs in Kanjivaram Sarees\u201d, The Indian Saree Journal, indiansareejournal.blog*","102 PAT T E R N S Kanchipuram sarees feature elaborate patterns are used in the weaving of the classic \u201cpalum like checks and stripes to break the monotony of the pazhamum\u201d combination. single colour. \u2018Ganga-Jamuna\u2019 refers to a saree with two contrasting borders. The distinguishing \u2018Kasa \u2013 Kasa Kattam\u2019 (Poppy seed checks) - feature of Kanchipuram is the geometrical basis Tiny poppy seeds are what these checks look like. of the pattern and the mathematical precision in The checks are extremely thin and small. arranging the colours. \u2018Puliyam \u2013 Kottai Kattam\u2019 (Tamarind Seed By incorporating a variety of yarns and zari into Checks) - The tamarind seed\u2013sized checks that the sari\u2019s warp and weft, the \u201cKattam and Kodu\u201d, are patterned all over the body on the two-toned a handloom specialty, opens the door to infinite sari (in different colour combinations) have a design possibilities. The term \u201cKattam\u201d (Grid) timeless allure. refers to a bounded area that has come to be associated with religious significance. \u2018Muthu \u2013 Kattam\u2019 (Pearl Checks) - pearl-like The theatrical geometry of a Kanjivaram saree is white squares that provide a new dimension emphasised by the ways in which its body, borders, of texture to the design. Typically, the kattam and pallu are separated from one another; is worked in white silk thread, which stands out \u201cMuppagam\u201d (3 equal halfs) - Dividing the width attractively against the sari\u2019s body colour and of the sari into thirds, with the upper and lower adds to its overall aesthetic. sections forming contrast borders. \u201cArai pagam\u201d (2 equal halves) - breadth of a \u2018Koorai \u2013 Kattam\u2019 (Roof Checks) - An everlasting Kanjeevaram is cut in half to create two equal gem in the Kanjeevaram tradition, \u201cKoorai halves. \u2018Palum Pazhamum\u2019 (Milk and Fruit checks) - Pudavai\u201d features exquisite contrast kattams Colors of good fortune\u2014red, yellow, and green\u2014 within contrasting borders.","103 \u2018KASA \u2013 KASA KATTAM\u2019 \u2018VAAZHAI POO STRIPES\u2019 \u2018PULIYAM \u2013 KOTTAI KATTAM\u2019 \u2018VELDHARI STRIPS\u2019","104 \u2018VAIRA-OOSI\u2019 \u2018KOOTTADI - KATTAM\u2019 PAAI MADI (BASKET WEAVE) \u2018THANDAVAALAM STRIPES\u2019","105 \u2018Koottadi - Kattam\u2019 (Fine checks) - the single, little High court checks - The tiles of the Madras High checks woven into the silks and the delicate texture Court, which have black and white checks, served of the zari kattams weaved into the sari\u2019s body. as inspiration for this unique design. What sets apart this design is the subtle interplay \u2018Veldhari stripes\u2019 (Kolams) - The women of Tamil of colours, contrasts, and metallic undertones. Nadu often use geometric patterns for the kolams\u2019 borders, and this design is reminiscent of those. \u2018Paimadi checks\u2019 (weave from basketry) - In a The veldhari pattern, which consists of wavy lines Kanchipuram , the distinctive tabby weave from with dots in between, has been woven into the basketry is employed as a basic criss-cross design warp of saris and has been famous for centuries. within each check. \u2018Vaira-oosi\u2019 (Diamond needle) - The saree\u2019s \u2018Vaazhai poo Stripes\u2019 or \u2018Aathi Vaazhai\u2019 (plantain beautiful zari is woven into delicate, needle-thin flowers) - The body of the sari is covered in long lines that run parallel to the border wich makes linear lines of contrasting colours. this pattern.-- \u2018Thandavaalam stripes\u2019 (Railway Track) - *posts by Sreemathy Mohan, V. all. (2018), \u201cKanjivarams Thandavalam lines are thicker than Aathi Vazhai \u2013 Checks and Stripes\u201d, The Indian Saree Journal, because they are based on the idea of parallel indiansareejournal.blog* \u201crailway tracks.\u201d","106 DYES AND COLOURS SHADES OF RED Kempu - the ruby red of uncut gemstones Arakku - the colour of lac When it comes to weddings, the colour raktha Pattu Roja - colour of the fragrant pink garden is considered to be one of the most lucky roses because of the meanings it carries. The colour Paneer Roja - the baby pink of the scented was originally inspired by fire and blood, two rose used to make rose water elements with deep historical significance. The Milagaipazham - red of chillies crimson pigment extracted from the \u201cmanjista\u201d Vengayam - pastel pink of Indian onions (also known as Indian madder) roots gave the Kumkumam - the vermillion colour of the Coromandel Coast its renown. The sarees made powder used for religious markings for Kamakshi Goddess featured a lot of red Thamarai - Lotus pink because it was one of her favourite colours. Thakkali - colour of ripened tomatoes with a tinge of orange Rani Pink - referring to a shocking pink Sengal - earthen brownish red colour Meenakshi - Deep pink shot with blue Sembaruthi - reddish orange hibiscus flowers","KEMPU SENGAL 107 ARAKKU SEMBARUTHI MILAGAIPZHAM PATTU ROJA THAMARAI KUMKUMAM PANEER ROJA RANI PINK THAKKALI VENGAYAM MEENAKSHI","108 ELAKKAI PAHAI PASSI PACHAI ILLAI PACHAI PON VANDU KILI PACHAI ALL PACHAI MANTHULIR EMERALD GREEN MAYIL KAZHUTHU BOTTLE GREEN","109 SHADES OF GREEN Elakkai Pachai - light shade of green from cardamom pods Green, the colour of life, comes to vibrant life Paasi pachai - shade of moss green on the magnificent silks of the Kanchipuram Ilai Pachai - colour of chlorophyll in leaves saree, a colour that was integral to the ancient Pon Vandu - the golden beetle\u2019s glossy luster, skill long before the advent of synthetic designs. frozen in a green and yellow snapshot Green is a highly adaptable colour that can Kili Pachai - colour of parrots be found in a wide variety of jewel tones and Alli Pachai - white and green of water lilies pastels, all of which convey a sense of renewal Manthulir - The young mango leaves having a and optimism. Green, along with vermillion, green-red hue. kumkuma arakku, and yellow, is considered a Emerald green - one of the colours in very fortunate colour for bridal sarees in South Navarathnams India, where it is celebrated as a philosophy, Mayil Kazhuthu - blues and greens of a concept, and way of life. peacock\u2019s neck Bottle green - colour of the dark green glass of bottles","110 SHADES OF BLUE MS Blue - shade of \u201cmiddle sea blue\u201d synonyms with the legendary Carnatic vocalist and Bharat The spiritually significant colour blue has a long Ratna M. S. Subbulakshmi and storied past. Within the Christian faith, this Turquoise - shade of blue-green gemstone holy hue is reminiscent of the Virgin Mary, who Ananda Blue - shade of sky blue is often shown wearing a blue garment that Sapphire - shade of light-blue gemstone represents the heavens. Navy Blue - very dark shade of blue like the midnight sky Copper Sulphate - shade of blue, rich and vivid, draws its name from the chemical compound Nilambari - dark blue-black hue Ramar Blue - blue hue with hints of green Ink Blue - deep blue of ink Sky Blue - bright blue resembling the sky at noon. Krishna Meghavarnam - two toned shade of violet shot with arakku or red like colour of dark rain clouds Kathiri Poo - \u2018Kathiri\u2019, meaning eggplant, shades of purple of both the fruit and its flower Lavender - shade of light purple from the flower Vadamalli - shades of purple shot with pink Naval Pazham - crimson and purple hued berries of the \u201cJamun\u201d fruit in the Indian subcontinent December Poo - purple tone of the flower blooming during the winters","MS BLUE SKY BLUE 111 ANANDA BLUE NAVY BLUE KRISHNA RAMAR BLUE NILAMBARI MEGAHAVARNAM KATHIRIPOO INK BLUE LAVENDER TURQOUISE DECEMBER POO SAPPHIRE COPPER SULPHATE","112 SRICHYRANAM SANDHANAM ELUMICHAI KANAKAMARAM MAMBAZHAM VENDHAYAM KUMKUMAPOO PASU MANJAL","113 SHADES OF YELLOW Kunkumapoo - golden orange colour of saffron that appears on the Indian flag In Indian culture, the colour yellow, which Vendhayam - double hued brownish yellow represents the golden spice known as turmeric, seeds of fenugreek has significant symbolic meaning. Many Pasu Manjal - shade of turmeric powder depictions of Vishnu see him dressed in a robe of Srichuranam - orange-yellow colour of the golden silk. Turmeric combined with carbonate central line of tilakam of soda or lime juice produces a hue of yellow Elumichai - Lemon-yellow shade known as \u201cBasanti.\u201dIn addition to the practise Sandhanam- lightcolourof groundsandalwood of smearing the body with turmeric on the Mambazham - The shade of Mango fruit day of the wedding, wearing clothing that has Kanakambaram - light orange shades of the been dyed or marked with the bright yellow flower of turmeric is said to bring good fortune and Fanta Orange - the shade of the popular provide protection. beverage \u2018Fanta\u2019. Then colour - the colour of honey","114 SHADES OF BLACK AND WHITE Karuppu (Black) Eiyam (Tin) - shade of light grey and dark Women traditionally wear an all-black sari grey like on vessels at the \u201cValai Kappu\u201d and \u201cSeemantham\u201d Cement grey - smoky shade of grey derived ceremonies that honour a first pregnancy. A from cement powder black dot, known as a \u201cdrishti pottu,\u201d is typically Yanai - Elephant Grey put on each of a newborn\u2019s cheeks to ward Muthu - Pearl white off the \u201cevil eye.\u201d Additionally, black bangles Butter or \u201cVennai\u201d - the golden white shade are worn by infants to protect them from the of butter \u201cdrishti,\u201d or evil eye. Sambal - ash grey, the colour tone is halfway between white and black. Christian brides, on the other hand, traditionally Kumaran or Off- white - shades of cream, wear white since it is considered the purest ivory and vanilla colour, a colour touched by the divine. The Hindu goddess Saraswati is often shown as an *posts by Sreemathy Mohan, V. all. (2018), \u201cColours attractive white-robed figure atop a white lotus, of Kanjivaram \u2013 Red\u201d, The Indian Saree Journal, which stands for illumination, wisdom, and truth. indiansareejournal.blog*","115 KARUPPU KUMARAN EIYAM CEMENT GREY SAMBAL YANAI MUTHU","116","117 THE ARTISANS INTERVIEW WITH THE ARTISANS","118 ARTISAN I Once we climbed up the narrow stairway of a an experienced weaver and his parents which house in a small street, we stepped into one of the took him 5 years to learn the weaving process Anna society\u2019s workplace. There were four looms properly. His day starts at 6 a.m. as he wakes placed with very little space to walk in between up, and comes to his workplace walking from his and a variety of punching cards, left over silk, house at 7a.m. and ends at 5 p.m. Sunday and and unspun zari by the shelves. We even noticed during functions is a day off for him. He doesn\u2019t the parivattam placed one after the other on the want to force his son to do this job neither his son upper shelf. An old radio was playing Tamil songs is interested in taking up this job. from the 80\u2019s much like the melodious likes of Ilaiyaraja and a gentle breeze was coming through When asked about the difficult part of weaving, the small window. Only one person was doing the he said that pedalling with the foot to change weaving process on that day. He was enjoying the designs on the jacquard machine is quite painful work he was doing with no disturbances and he for the feet. Otherwise, he likes the job he does was humming to the tune of the song playing. As, and after working for so many years the work is I sat down for a conversation with him, questions getting easier for him. During the Covid time he poured in as he happily answered them. wasn\u2019t able to do his weaving job due to a halt in the Kanjeevaram saree industry. During that time, Summing up, Shekar is a 45-year-old full-time he did a fruit vendor job or other small jobs he weaver from Kancheepuram, with 20 years of gets to save his family. Generally weavers\u2019 wages experience in weaving. Currently, he is working differ from INR 3000 \u2013 INR 30,000 per saree under a cooperative society named Anna society in depending on the design. He gets around INR Kanchipuram. He is an expert in making simple to 3000 - INR 6000 per saree. He would finish 3-4 less complicated design sarees. He chose weaving sarees a month with each saree taking a week, as his job because he liked doing it. His interest 10 day or two weeks depending on the design in weaving grew from his childhood as he saw his and the amount of work he does in a day (doing parents and grandparents doing the same. Years it slow or fast). He feels the wages are less and after he finished his 3rd standard, he observed wants more recognition for weavers but still he is that weaving at those times was a prestigious work happy with his owner as he does the needful for to do in Kanchipuram. So, he learnt weaving from him.","119 Name - Shekar Age - 45 years Specialized in - Weaver, Anna Society Experience - 20 years","120 MR.SHEKAR WORKING ON HIS JACQUARD LOOM FOR NEXT SAREE","121 He is ready to teach for the next generation people he just completes the weaving and the saree is sold without getting fee for which no one comes for this for a lower price. If 3-5 weaves has gone wrong kind of job. The people nowadays prefer to work he takes out the thread (weft) which has been for big companies. He even worries that people weaved into the warp with the Nada (shuttle) and who were working as a weaver also have left the does the weave correctly. A chance of mistake job due to no more income and other good jobs. happens when the nylon twin thread connecting the jacquard and warps gets tangled. It is the He compared working for a private company weavers job to make sure the thread don\u2019t get to working for the society, saying that the latter tangled. has rigid restrictions about working hours. Higher incomes and festival bounces are the payoff He has been weaving for many years and has for a more difficult recruitment procedure within noticed that improvements in loom technology the society. The sarees he creates for private and dyeing methods have made the process companies come in a wide range of styles and more efficient. He claims that electronic versions measurements. When it comes to privately owned of conventional foot pedals, electronic jacquard, retail chains, the \u201cdesigns quotient\u201d has been and spot-color dyeing exist and may be used to depleted. Contrarily, artisans in a society typically save time. Even though new technologies have enjoy higher wages and other benefits. The sarees been incorporated into the weaving process, the worn in social occasions are also of higher quality. original Kanchivaram\u2019s integrity remains intact. If a major part of saree weaving has gone wrong,","122 ARTISAN 2 Mr. Jagadeesan, 45 years old, has an experience He mentions that, the major raw material \u2013 Silk is of 20 years in colour mixing. He works under the sourced from Bangalore and is purchased by their dying unit named Sri Swami silk dying work along owners which is around INR 5000\/- to 6200\/- with 5 other dyers \u2013 registered under pollution per kg. They are brought as white rolls and after board number 93. He has completed his Bachelor\u2019s the degumming process (removal of protein layer degree in Psychology (B.A.) and took up this field on the silk) is done, acidic dyes are mixed with because he felt he was talented in this and he rock salt and the rolls of silk fibre are dipped in liked the job. He learnt the art of colour mixing on them. 2 kilograms of the solution is needed to dip his own out of curiosity and he believes that self- silk strands for 3 sarees. learning will teach us many things than learning the art from somebody else. Making dye is not a simple procedure and poses a number of health risks to those who do it. Working \u201cSelf-learning makes you more independent\u201d during the heat of the summer, workers in the silk industry often suffer from back pain from His parents are weavers for years whereas he is the long hours they spend standing and bending the first person to come into the dying unit. He over boiling dye tubs to dip silk fibres. The acidic is quite satisfied and happy with this profession nature of the dyes also increases the risk of a but he doesn\u2019t want their children to take up this number of lung and skin diseases from prolonged profession since it doesn\u2019t give a good living until exposure. If any mistake happens while colouring, and unless his children are willing to pursue it. He the process will be reversed to decolour the yarn. wakes up at 6 a.m. in the morning and starts his If the colours don\u2019t sit on the yarn after dyeing work firstly on the warp silk as the warp has three the yarn is dyed again and washed. The dying different colours to be dyed. But he sees to that process needs good eye sight and concentration. his work ends by 6:30 p.m. and a maximum of 50 kgs of yarn is dyed per day. Then he explained in He charges around Rs. 250\/- per kg for chemical detail how the dyeing unit works in coordination to dying and around 1500\/- for natural dying, but bring out the perfectly dyed silk. His work involves he does not do much of natural dying nowadays mixing colours in correct proportions to bring out since he doesn\u2019t get the colour he desired for. the desired colour and then pass the powder bundle to the dyers. \u201cThe right mix of colours is the secret authenticity of a Kancheevaram Saree\u201d","123 Name - A.K.Jagadeesan Age - 45 years Specialized in - Colour Mixing, Sri Swami silk dying unit registered under polution board number 93 Experience - 20 years","124 Name - Padmanabhan Age - 38 years Specialized in - Spinning and Full-time Weaving Experience - 30 years","125 ARTISAN 3 Padmanabhan is an independent weaver who out will eventually become a wastage. If zari is weave sarees for a government based society wasted in this process, it can be made into money named Kanchipuram Kamatchi Amman Pattukottai but if silk is wasted nothing could be don. He says Sangamam and for temple goddesses. It was a he heard of people reusing the same as \u2018pattu traditionforallpeopleinhisfamilyinKancheepuram maalai\u2019 (silk garland) which he haven\u2019t seen to do only weaving as a profession. But now, only anyone making like that around. he and his older brother does the job of weaving in their family. Since most people in his relations He feels technology and designs have developed are weavers, they help each other learn the so much that any design can be done in hours. skill from which he learnt the skill from his elder What was special during his interview was a clear brother. While going on with the conversation, he explanation of how a jacquard machine works explained the whole process of pre-production with the holes on punch card which has been put before the silk comes for weaving as well as the in detail the process section. Covid - 19 was the the weaving process from start to end. Through worst phase of life for him. The making of saree the interview it was interesting to know from him reduced to 1 every two months because of the that years back the silk was dipped in rice starch lack of raw materials. In some cases, the made water after dyeing for almost 12 hours. Nowadays saree couldn\u2019t be released from the beam for the silk after the dyeing process is immediately days and kept simply and the next saree couldn\u2019t put in the rice starch water and is immediately be started. He feels even now the same situation taken out for warping. Depending on the design is continuing although Covid has decreased. He be it complicated or simple, he takes his own time was happy that the government society he was to finish a saree as he doesn\u2019t work under anyone. working under helped him with the situation. If a fault happens while weaving, the weaving is taken out or released out slowly, meaning the process is reversed and that particular weave is done again correctly. The weaved thread taken","126 ARTISAN 4 : NATIONAL AWARD WINNER (2013) Palanivelu, learned weaving as a fashion from his It was eye-pleasing to see a journal he shared, father Veerapan who is also a renowned weaver. made by his father Veerapan. Veerapan was a Currently his main occupation is a wholesale designer and the director of Weavers\u2019 Service manufacturing business of Kancheepuram Silk Centre, Kanchipuram. The journal consisted of Sarees named N.V.Silks. He manufactures his poster ads of the sarees Veerapan designed and sarees in a particular traditional style which aren\u2019t newspaper clippings about Veerapan himself. done very easily nowadays. V. Palanivelu is the Another striking part of the journal is a photo second member of his family to win a national of Indira Gandhi wearing a Kanchivaram saree prize, following in the footsteps of his father. Aadai designed by Veerapan which became one of and Petni are ancient techniques that are difficult Indira Gandhi\u2019s favourite saree. to master, but Palnivelu was awarded a national prize for his unique creations using them in a Palanivelu have a strong opposition to powerlooms Kanjeevaram Silk Saree. According to him, \u201cDesign, and technology improvementss and favours old texture, and colour are crucial\u201d when making silk traditional handlooms.\u201dIf powerlooms get more sarees. He has a unique style od showing more and more advanced the traditional techniques colours in one saree. The winning saree features specially made only with handlooms will be intricate embroidery and traditional patterns such forgotten. Powerlooms produce same type of as annam (swan). They were made with \u201cpure gold sarees as they are automated but each handloom zari\u201d and \u201ccoloured silk,\u201d he explained. With his sarees by weavers are different. These uneven creations, he\u2019s aiming to create a bridge between type of sarees with some mistakes make a the past, present, and future. During the whole handloom saree unique from the powerloom\u201d. interview and little interactions we made, he spoke more about the difference between Aadai and Shri V.Palanivelu was presented with a certificate, Jacquard technique which has been explained in angavastram, copper plaque, and \u20181 lakh in cash detail in the \u2018Techniques\u2019 section. as part of the national award. Since he recieved e a national merit certificate he was also rewarded 50,000 monetary incentive.","127 Name - Shri V. Palanivelu Age - 56 years Specialized in - Design, Weaving and Manufacturing of the Kanchipuram Silk Saree Experience - 33 years","128 MR.VEERAPAN JOURNEL SHOWING HIS DESIGNED SAREE WORN BY INDIRA GANDHI","129 Rarely do we come across a colouring book The book is divided into three parts; the first dedicated to the patterns and trimmings of the describes the shapes and forms used in the saree. In his office, we were able to view a unique ornamentation; the second describes the traditional book. colours typically used in Kanjivaram silks; and the third describes the structure of a Kanjivaram sari. About the book - The history of Kanchipuram and its textiles are celebrated in the unique book Sri N Veerappan, a late weaver, is revered as \u2018Vanam Singaram\u2019. Kanakavalli, a sari boutique, a brilliant freehand artist and designer in the released the book as part of its arts and research Kanjivaram tradition of his homeland. Veerapan programme, The Ekavalli Foundation. Designs are was recognised for his silk scarf, which features original works by Sri Veerappan, a master weaver 1,600 unique patterns. The scarf was inspired by who has won numerous awards for his work. His the silk and cotton saris worn by women in South son, Sri Palanivel, who is also an artist, modified India. He was awarded the National Award for some of those drawings and was appreciative Master Craftsmanship for his efforts to document of his father\u2019s generosity in sharing them . Classic and conserve the traditional repertory in a themes derived from nature portray various representative sample. species of flora and fauna in Vanam Singaram (Tamil meaning - forest adorned). Leaf and floral motifs, as well as those of yazhi, swans, peacocks, elephants, and lions, predominate in the artwork. Nearly half of the book is taken up with elaborate paisley and spade shaped motifs.","130 H E A LT H I S S U E S Weavers process - The weavers\u2019 working condi- Spinning process - Spinning requires patience, a tions and health were observed to better under- firm hold on the yarn, and the ability to work si- stand the concerns they face during the job. It was multaneously. And while spinning, the artist must observed that most places of work were quite grasp the yarn before it is wound onto the ma- small and lacked basic safety equipment. With- chine reel. Due to the increased speed of the ma- out sufficient ventilation, they are subjected to the chine and the yarn, there is a danger that an ar- intense heat of Kanchipuram while they work in tisan will have their finger cut by the yarn. those cramped confines. They are subjected to a number of distractions and limitations: loud noise, Dyeing Process - The dyeing process is a difficult inadequate illumination and ventilation. The han- procedure fraught with potential dangers to the dloom machinery appeared to be pretty old and worker\u2019s health. Being in the heat of the summer, shaky, but was in decent enough condition for use. workers in the silk industry often suffer from back There was no obvious first aid kit or medicine for pain from the long hours they spend standing and common ailments like head-aches, body-aches or bending over boiling dye tubs to dip silk fibres. fever in the space. Physical Pains particularly on The acidic nature of the dyes also increases the the muscles and joints due to long working hours risk of a number of lung and skin diseases from were discovered to be prevalent among the weav- prolonged exposure. ers. Given the labourers\u2019 long hours of work, lack of opportunities for physical activity, and precari- ous financial situations, it\u2019s reasonable to conclude that these problems are pervasive and enduring.","131 DYERS WORING AT THE FACTORY WITHOUT ANY PROECTION FROM AND GASES.","132","133 MARKET STUDY Survey and research","134 MARKET STUDY The notion of the unorganised sector and its However,thankstotheriseof socialmediaandother customary working conditions were analysed. online platforms, you may easily purchase a silk The UNORGANIZED part of the economy here saree from the official seller websites of numerous is synonymous with the small, household based shops. These include RMKV, Kancheepuram SM manufacturing, and small producers. Gains and Silks, Nalli, Kumaran Silks, Pothys, and many more. profits are unpredictable and fluctuating. Since its Because of this, the industry has spread across the production is restricted, it can be carried out with country and around the world. fewer resources (such as time and money) and in a smaller area. Currently, Kanchipuram Silk sarees cost around 5000\/- to 2 lakh according to the usage of pure It was initially merchants who bought sarees silk, pure zari and tested zari. This price range is from local weavers and sold them. However, set in Kumaran Silks Shop, T Nagar, Chennai. Most the weavers were harmed by this arrangement of the customers of Kumaran Silks prefer Red, because they were not fairly compensated for Maroon, Pink and Blue shades of Kanjeevaram their efforts. Kanchipuram sarees are in high Silk Sarees. Getting deep into their price ranges, demand for ceremonies and celebrations in the Pure silk and Pure zari costs 40,000\/- and above state, such as weddings, temple festivals, and while pure silk and tested zari costs between other rites. Kanchipuram sarees, both handwoven 5000\/- to 2 Lakhs and a pure silk saree without and powerloom, are popular, although new styles zari costs around 5000\/- to 8000\/- depending and patterns hit the shelves every festival. In the on the design and the amount of work that goes offline silk saree market, one can feel good about into making the saree. A border-less saree costs one\u2019s purchase by personally examining the saree 5000\/- and above. The men\u2019s silk veshti and sattai for flaws in coloration, quality control, or weight. costs between 4600\/- to 15,000\/- depending on the size of the border. The border of the men\u2019s traditional attire comes only in two colours which is green and red border.","135 CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETIES Anna Society was started in 1971 by Mr. K.S. Thiruvenkadam. This is the largest cooperative Co-ops are groups of people who have decided society after the Thiruvalluvar society with 11 to work together voluntarily for the sake of their branches all over Tamilnadu. The average sales common economic, social, and cultural interests. of the Anna society annually is from INR 46 \u2013 47 Cooperative societies and private traders make crores. During the covid period, the sales of sarees up the backbone of the silk industry as it stands were on halt. But, due to the online business the right now. 23 Weavers\u2019 Cooperative associations society were able to maintain their revenue. The with over 60,000 silk looms providing employment society saw a INR 8 \u2013 9 crore lesser sales during to more than 30,000 silk weavers can be found Covid-19. in the city now. This contributes to the city\u2019s over 200 crores in annual revenue. These cooperative As a design head, he goes through many designs societies provide raw materials to the weavers and approves them for card punching. When asked and also arrange for the sale of the sarees about the selection of designs from the designers, produced by them. The Weavers\u2019 Servic Centre at he choses designs which are well moving among Kancheepuram, established in 1956 monitors the the people. He feels that people buy saree mostly activities of these cooperative societies. seeing the colours and patterns more than the Pure zari and silk are used exclusively by the motif designs. Even though he has the intention to cooperatives. They check for conformity to go creative with the motifs and designs, he feels standardsof fineness,mass,andgold\/silvercontent. without the traditional motifs there is no meaning Because of this, their sarees are more expensive to the Kanjeevaram sarees. Kanjeevaram Sarees than imitations. Although larger cooperatives like are the best when it is maintained traditional. But the Rs.20-crore-a-year Anna Society have thrived still, he tries his best to retain the motifs and bring in the face of intense market competition, smaller up new patterns to attract customers. cooperatives have struggled. Mohanavel, the Design head of Anna Society took his precious time to explain about the the society and the designs produced in the society.","136 MARKET SURVEY Objective of the survey Analysis To determine how we as a community can help the \u2018Kanchipuram Silk Saree\u2019 traditional craft bring Insight into customer habits and attitudes about back it\u2019s glory and sustain it for future generations. Kanchipuram Silk sarees were gained from the To study the consumer behaviour for Kanchipuram market survey. Our findings indicate that the Silk Sarees. distinctiveness and significance of Kanchipuram Silk sarees are well-known and appreciated. Tools for Analysis Most people do buy Kanchipuram sarees, but The survey or understanding of the market is they only wear them for special events like studied using pie chart and the percentage weddings because they are so expensive. A analysis through google forms. genuine Kanchipuram saree can\u2019t be sold for anywhere between Rs.3,000 and Rs.10,000 but Sample size the majority people wanted this price range. It is The market survey was sent across to a large sad to know that people still have to grasp the variety of people belonging to different age true worth of a Kanchipuram Silk Saree and the groups and states. The survey was constrained to labour going behind it. In terms of quality and a market of 100 customers. weight, handlooms tend to be the most popular choice. Most survey takers opt for shades of red when purchasing a Kanjeevaram saree. Those who took part in the study reached a consensus that the struggling weavers deserve help in the form of marketing, branding, promotions, and live displays. They are also concerned that future generations will not continue weaving as a career.","137","138 SWOT A N A LYS I S Strengths Weakness \u2022\t Offices of significant religious organizations \u2022\t Poor pay is given to artisans. \u2022\t Utilize patterns and motifs from their history. \u2022\t No reference to contemporary trends \u2022\t Sincerity and expertise most artisans have more \u2022\t Not up to date on technological developments \u2022\t Dying craft than 15 years of professional expertise \u2022\t Customers do not feel the need to purchase the \u2022\t Production without electricity (sustainable goods frequently. production) \u2022\t Dependent on stores and middlemen \u2022\t Management of time \u2022\t Lower production \u2022\t Different and distinctive saree construction \u2022\t Time-consuming and Expensive \u2022\t Low returns on investment methods \u2022\t Lack of Marketing \u2022\t Retained ancient customs \u2022\t Lack of Marketing \u2022\t Equal numbers of men and women work \u2022\t Handlooms demand room and care. \u2022\t Minimal danger to health \u2022\t It is viewed as an unstable source of revenue \u2022\t All ages of artisans were employed \u2022\t GI Tag and craft awareness by artisans. \u2022\t Tag and craft awareness \u2022\t Associated with long-lasting customs and tradition \u2022\t Promotes and emphasizes the unique abilities of the Indian subcontinent via inherited craft and art. \u2022\t Yearly rises in the product\u2019s value \u2022\t Both small and large companies with locations in and outside of Kanchipuram profit from considerable profit margins.","139 SWOT A N A LYS I S Opportunities Threats \u2022\t Exports can help the craft prosper. \u2022\t Under the Kanjeevaram brand, other saris that \u2022\t Place of tourism are mass-produced using machines are sold. \u2022\t Place of tourism \u2022\t Collateral and television \u2022\t People\u2019s ignorance on how to distinguish between \u2022\t Customization for a large audience real and counterfeit saris from Kanjeevaram \u2022\t Strategic branding \u2022\t Craft-related exhibitions and organisation \u2022\t Cheaper Imposters \u2022\t The rise of the Power looms promotion \u2022\t Weavers leaving their jobs because of \u2022\t Teaching the next generation the craft \u2022\t Government assistance inadequate pay \u2022\t Wholesale vendors are quite profitable. \u2022\t Outbreak of Covid-19 \u2022\t Social media influencers of today concentrate \u2022\t The next generation is not yet prepared to primarily on promoting such crafts. learn the trade. \u2022\t High fashion and rapid fashion are expanding industries. \u2022\t Those societies that favour westernization and a rapid way of life at the expense of traditional arts and crafts are problematic. \u2022\t Promoting traditional or regional arts and crafts is looked down upon by those who don\u2019t appreciate their importance.","140","141 IMPACT OF COVID-19 The effects of the pandemic on the silk trade between districts and states, so that raw supplies have been devastating. Since the shutdown, from Bangalore (Silk), Surat (Zari), and Madurai nearly 30,000 expert weavers have been made were not delivered (Tools and Machinery). unemployed. K Krishnamurthy, who works in the handloom weaving industry, said that from the Power looms, which have just emerged on the first week of March after the outbreak, the silk market, have only made conditions worse for industry has been at a full standstill. Tourists were handlooms. From the outside looking in, it appears noticeably absent from the city. Festivals are a that this scenario makes perfect sense: power looms great time to make a purchase. The market for are more efficient, and the goods they produce Kanchipuram sarees has suffered greatly because are cheaper and in high demand, especially of the pandemic, with sales down even during given the fact that post-COVID consumers have South Indian festivities. but thanks to fewer low-key less disposable income to spend on consumer weddings and a general slowdown in consumer goods. However, thousands of weavers who rely spending. From approximately 50,000 people on handlooms for their livelihood are now facing who joined the Tamil Nadu Silk Cooperative an uncertain future as a result of this. Between Society, orders have dropped to a mere two or Rs 50,000 and Rs 60,000 is the going rate for a three each month. Four months of the lockdown hand-woven wedding saree. A saree woven on saw complete inactivity. a power loom costs around Rs 14,000, while the same saree done by hand costs only Rs 12,000. Due to the lack of demand for silk sarees, weavers have been forced to rely on personal loans and *@CNBCTV18Live. (2020), \u201cIn Kanchipuram, Covid-19 assistance from friends and family just to survive. Has Dealt A Death-Blow To Handloom Weavers\u201d, As of yet, the weavers have not fully recovered Cnbctv18.Com, www.cnbctv18.com, 29 October* from the pandemic hit on the industry. *(\u201cLockdown leaves 30,000 silk weavers jobless in Tamil Nadu | Chennai News - Times of India\u201d, n.d.)* Raw resources were scarce, and there was no interstate trade. Transportation services were interrupted as a result of the Covid-19 lockdown","142 ARTISAN DETAILS Dyeing Unit - Sri Swami Silk Dyeing Unit,122\/20, Thayaar Kulam Street, Pillaiyarpalayam, Kanchipuram, registered under pollution board number 93 Master Artisan Name - A.K.Jagadeesan Age - 45 years Specialized in - Colour Mixing Experience - 20 years Contact - 98944 14099 Dyers Dyers Dyers Name - Elumalai Name - Arumugam Name - Ganesh Age - 46 years Age - 60 years Age - 40 years Specialized in - Dyeing of Silk Specialized in - Dyeing of Silk Experience - 20 years Specialized in - Dyeing of Silk Experience - 15 years Experience - 30 years","143 ARTISAN DETAILS Weaving Unit - Kamatchi Amman Pattukottai Sangamam - Cooperative Society, 47B, Thiruvegamban street, Pillaiyarpalayam, kanchipuram Master Artisan Warping Anna Society Weaver Name - Padmanabhan Name - Sivakumar Name - Shekar Age - 38 years Age - 62 years Age - 45 years Specialized in - Weaver Specialized in - Spinning and Full-time Specialized in - Spinning and Full-time Experience - 20 years Weaving Weaving Experience - 30 years Experience - 35 years Contact - 9994970089 National Award Winner Name - Shri V. Palanivelu Age - 56 years Specialized in - Designer, Weaver and a Manufacturer of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees under the name of N.V.Silks. Experience - 33 years Contact - 97899 77777","144","145 CONCLUSION There is always something new to learn and the industry for handloom weaving is changing at a pretty fast rate. New methods of weaving, new techniques and better working conditions are improved upon. Our week in Kanchipuram was filled with exploration of various distinct neighbourhoods and the formation of countless fond memories.We travelled across the city mostly by share autos and by walk and could imbibe the greatness that was Kanchipuram. Every corner was filled with new experiences and new people. Communicating with the residents of Kanchipuram made us more aware and informed of their practices and beliefs. It was inspiring to see how the craftsmen treated visitors with the same enthusiasm, commitment, and warmth no matter what their financial situation was like. The trip was an eye-opener and a terrific learning experience for all of us, and we came away with a newfound respect and admiration for the trade and the craftsman who practise it. Kanchipuram sarees are known as \u201cthe weave of the gods\u201d because of the subtle sensitivity of the weavers who incorporate elements of design and colour inspired by religious fervour, ritual, and tradition. The amazing transformation of silk into a saree ended up being a tour through the mythological past, present, and future of the region\u2019s culture, lifestyle, and architecture.","146","147 OUR EXPERIENCE We were all smiles because this was our very first from each source was invaluable; it allowed us class trip outside of Chennai. We piled into the to get to know the weavers on a human level and bus, rubbing shoulders with each other\u2019s bags of gain insight into their daily lives and craft. The clothes, food, and enthusiasm, and set off on a generosity and kindness of every craftsperson 2-hour journey. Even after hours of conversing, we we met was heartwarming. Feelings of warmth arrived at the hotel with the same joy and energy. and acceptance were immediately apparent. All After a day of exploring the city and soaking up the while having a great time doing it, we were its experience and knowledge, we settled in for able to work, gather, and record everything with the night with our favourite comfort foods and ease. We really enjoyed learning about the city\u2019s entertainment. We were able to fuel our bodies with rich cultural history as we wandered its many the energising breakfast and lunch foods of South temples. The vacation was made more delightful India, as well as the sweet and savoury desserts by the group\u2019s enthusiastic participation and the of Tamil Nadu. Seeing Vikram in Kanchipuram strong bonds we formed with one another. There was a great way to unwind after a long day of were many obstacles in our way, but as adults we work and enjoy an exciting movie in the evening. learned to deal with them. As a group and a class, Underneath the Kanchipuram residents, the city\u2019s we became closer and more bonded. Our time in theatrical heritage is also worthy of mention. It Kanchipuram has been incredibly educational for used to be a task to get in the auto and go to us on many levels, from providing us with a view discover craftspeople every day. Yet we put it into the realities of the craft sector to assisting us to good use by holding morning meetings to plot in developing important life skills. out the day. Finding weavers was like going on a daily treasure hunt. The knowledge we gleaned","148","149 OUR LEARNINGS The data and research we gathered allowed us to better understand how fibre is transformed into fabric. We learned the ins and outs of sourcing the fibres, dyes, and threads needed to make the exquisite sarees. We were able to speak with the people who make these pieces, gaining insight into their lives and the challenges they face in pursuing their passion. The significance of the sarees\u2019 colours, themes, and patterns were explained to us. We were given a glimpse into the intricate ties between Kanchipuram\u2019s religious and cultural traditions and the intricate patterns on the sarees themselves. We experienced the neighborhood\u2019s cuisine, people, festivals, marriages, museums, theatres, and religious architecture. To our great pleasure, we were able to meet Mr. Krishna Moorthy, Mr.Palanivelu, and National Award Winner N.K. Mohana Chettiar, who showed us their beautiful works and explained the significance.","150 GLOSSARY \u2022\t Selai (se.lie) \/ Pudavai (pu.da.vai) \u2013 Tamil terms for Saree \u2022\t Paavu (Paa.vu) \u2013 Tamil term Warp \u2022\t Sapri (Sup.ri) \u2013 Tamil term for weft or woof \u2022\t Thondaimandalam.(thone.dye.mun.da.lum) - neck of a region. Named after Thondaiman llandriyan who ruled over the region before 2500 years and ruled over Kanchipuram as per the \u2018Pathupattu\u2019. \u2022\t Gopuram. (go.poo.rum) - the high towers erected at the entrance of the temples. \u2022\t Vimana.(V.maa.naa) - tower constructed over the central sanctum \u2022\t Garbha Griha . (gar.ba gree.haa) - the central sanctum of a temple. \u2022\t Ghatikastanam (lga.tea.kaa.stha.num) -centre of education and higher learning. \u2022\t Mundhani (mun.dha.ni) \u2013 Tamil word for Pallu of a saree \u2022\t Kanchi (Ka.n.chi) \u2013 The word is from Tamil literature. \u201cKa,\u201d refers to the Hindu god Brahma, and \u201canchi,\u201d refers to Brahma\u2019s worship of Lord Vishnu. \u2022\t Paavadai Dhavani (Paa.vaa.dye Dha.va.ni) \u2013 Tamil term for the Half-saree attire which consists of a full-length skirt, short blouse and shawl \u2022\t Angavastram (Un.ga.vus.thrum) \u2013 Sanskrit word referring to a piece of cloth that is worn over the shoulders. \u2022\t Devangas (day.vun.gauze) - Sanskrit term meaning \u201cBody of the god\u201d referring to a weaving community. \u2022\t Saligar (saw.lee.gur) -Sanskrit term where \u201cSali\u201d means spider referring to a weaving community. \u2022\t Elakkai Pachai (\u00e1. luck. kaay puch.ai) - Tamil term meaning the colour of cardamom pods. \u2022\t llai (E.lie) - Tamil term meaning a Leaf \u2022\t Kili (kill. E) - Tamil term for a parrot \u2022\t Manthulir. (mun.thoo.lir \/mah.yil) - Tamil term for young mango leaves \u2022\t Kazhuthu. (ka.lu.tthu) - Tamil term for Neck of a body \u2022\t Paasi. (paw.see) - Tamil word for Moss \u2022\t Ponvandu. (pone.vun.do) - Tamil term for golden beetle \u2022\t Alli. (ah.I.li) - water lily \u2022\t Kempu. (came.boo) -Tamil term fo ruby red colour. \u2022\t Arakku. (ara.koo) - Tamil term for red lac used as sealing agent. \u2022\t Milagai. (me.la.kaai) - Tamil term for red chilli \u2022\t Kumkumam. (koom.koo.mum) - Tamil term for the vermillion powder used for sacred marking on the forehead of a married lady. \u2022\t Thakkali. (thuk.kaali) - Tamil term for Tomato \u2022\t Sengal (sen.g(ah)I) - Tamil term for a brick \u2022\t Semman. (sem.mun) - Tamil term for red soil \u2022\t Sembaruthi (ch.em.paru.thee) - Tamil name for Hibiscus \u2022\t Pattu Roja (p(ah)t.too row.jaa) - Tamil name for pink garden roses. \u2022\t Vengayam (when.gaa.yum) - Tamil term for Onion \u2022\t Thamarai (thaa.ma.rye) - Tamil term for Lotus \u2022\t Moolaranga.(moo.lah.run.ga)- Tamil term for primary colour \u2022\t Nila. (nee.la) - Tamil term for blue \u2022\t Nilambari (nee.laam.bha.ree) - Tamil term referring to dark blue-black hue as seen in the Benarasi sarees \u2022\t Ramar (raa.mur) - the seventh avatar of Vishnu. Here used to refer to his dark blue colour. \u2022\t Kathiri (k(ah)th.eerie) - Tamil term for Brinjal"]