BBC Good Food

weekend Oxtail soup 2 garlic cloves, bashed marinade and simmer for 1 min. Nestle the oxtail in the SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins plus 1 tbsp plain lour mix and pour in the stock. Bring overnight marinating and chilling to the boil, skim any froth from the COOK 4 hrs MORE EFFORT 1 tbsp ketchup surface, cover and cook in the oven for 3 hrs 30 mins, stirring now and 1 kg oxtail, cut into 4 pieces 2 litres beef stock, plus extra then until the meat is very tender. small handful of thyme sprigs 3 Remove from the oven and leave 2 bay leaves if needed to cool slightly, then lift the oxtail small bunch of parsley, leaves and from the broth and shred using 1 Up to two days before serving, tip two forks. Discard the bones, and stalks separated the oxtail into a bowl and season transfer the meat to a bowl. Sieve tsp black peppercorns, with a little salt. Tie the thyme the liquid into another bowl, then roughly crushed sprigs, bay leaves and parsley stalks cover and chill overnight. 1 small star anise together, and drop in along with the 4 Remove and discard any fat that bottle red wine peppercorns and star anise. Pour in has solidified on top of the soup. 4 tbsp sun lower oil the wine. Cover and chill overnight, Tip the broth into a saucepan and 1 onion, roughly chopped or for up to 48 hrs. simmer until silky, adding a little 2 carrots, roughly chopped 2 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/ more stock or water if the broth is 2 celery sticks, roughly chopped gas 4. Lift the oxtail out of the too thick. Stir in the shredded meat marinade, reserving the mixture. until warmed through. Season, then Heat half the oil in a large casserole ladle into bowls and scatter over pan and brown the oxtail all over some parsley leaves, if you like. (you may need to do this in batches). Transfer to a plate and set aside. PER SERVING 303 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 1g • Cook the onions, carrots, celery and garlic in the remaining oil until just carbs 8g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 22g • salt 1.7g starting to brown. Stir in the flour and ketchup, and cook to a thick paste. Pour in the reserved JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 101

weekend Curried squash, lentil tip Chicken noodle 4 soft-boiled eggs, peeled & coconut soup & sweetcorn soup Lower the eggs and halved (see tip) Nothing makes a soup silkier than into a pan of This is a main meal in a bowl, and using a squash (or pumpkin) and boiling water exactly the sort of thing I make to 1 sheet dried nori, finely shredded carrot purée for the base. This soup and cook for use up leftover roast chicken. Not is given even more body with filling about 6-7 mins. a bit of the leftovers go to waste – spring onions or shallots, sliced red lentils. I love the fact that it’s a Immediately I pick every last scrap of meat off seasonal vegetable soup combined scoop out with the carcass and use the bones to sesame seeds with my favourite comfort food a slotted spoon make the stock that forms the base in the world, dhal. It’s rich and and transfer of the soup (find a stock recipe on 1 Combine the stock, garlic, soy creamy, while still being totally to a bowl of bbcgoodfood.com). What you put sauce, Worcestershire sauce, ginger, vegan and dairy-free. To take it cold water until in the soup is totally up to you, but five-spice, chilli powder and further, I sometimes also toast they’re cool I love thick, slurpy ramen noodles. 300ml water in a stockpot or large cumin and pumpkin seeds to enough saucepan. Bring to the boil, reduce scatter over the top. to handle. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins the heat and simmer for 5 mins. COOK 20 mins EASY 2 Check for seasoning, and add the SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins sugar or some extra soy sauce to 700ml chicken stock make it sweeter or saltier to your COOK 25 mins EASY V G 3 garlic cloves, halved liking. Cook the noodles following 4 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra to taste pack instructions. Drain. 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 3 Fry the chicken in the sesame oil 1 butternut squash, peeled, thumb-sized piece of ginger, until just starting to brown. Divide the noodles between four bowls. deseeded and finely chopped peeled and sliced Top each with a quarter of the meat, 200g carrot, finely chopped ½ tsp Chinese five-spice powder 25g spinach, 1 tbsp sweetcorn and 1 tbsp curry powder with turmeric pinch of chilli powder two egg halves. Strain the stock into 100g red lentils 1 tsp sugar (optional) a clean pan and return to the boil. 700ml vegetable stock 375g ramen noodles Ladle the stock into the bowls, 400ml can reduced-fat 400g cooked chicken breast, sliced then sprinkle with the nori, spring 2 tsp sesame oil onions or shallots and pinch of coconut milk For the garnish sesame seeds. Allow the spinach small handful of coriander, 100g baby spinach to wilt slightly, then serve. 4 tbsp sweetcorn roughly chopped, to serve PER SERVING 628 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 3g • naan breads, to serve carbs 68g • sugars 6g • fibre 2g • protein 51g • salt 4g 1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan and sizzle the squash and carrots for 1 min. Stir in the curry powder and cook for 1 min more. Tip in the lentils, stock and coconut milk and stir well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15-18 mins until all the veg is tender. 2 Pour the soup into a food processor and blitz until it’s the consistency you prefer (you can also use a hand blender). Season, scatter with some coriander and serve with naan breads. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 185 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 5g • carbs 21g • sugars 4g • fibre 3g • protein 6g • salt 0.4g 102 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

update reader Timeless cookware offer An exclusive saving on a durable Le Creuset soup pot Le Creuset offers quality products that make ultimate kitchen companions. From their signature cast iron and stoneware that add a pop of colour to your home, to their stylishly designed, toughened, non-stick and 3-ply stainless steel, their pots and pans are the workhorses of the kitchen. Marrying everyday functionality with elevated style, the Le Creuset cast iron soup pot is extremely versatile, and ideal for anything from quick 30-minute meals, to slow-cooked aromatic stews, soups or delicious stir-fries. Its sloped sides make stirring more efficient, by promoting continuous movement even after the lid is on. The handles provide a steady grip, so you can easily transport a full pot from the hob, or oven, to the table. Whether you’re making simple suppers for one, or a feast for the family, this soup pot is perfectly suited to the job. It comes in flint grey, a modern neutral shade to add a stylish touch to your kitchen. Such timeless design will prompt you to slow down and fully enjoy the experience of cooking. Le Creuset also offers a lifetime guarantee across all their cookware ranges, so you have reassurance that their products will provide superior cooking results every time. SAVE OVER 25% Exclusive offer for readers of BBC Good Food Buy the Le Creuset cast iron soup pot in flint for just £172.95 (RRP £240), including delivery TO ORDER visit lecreuset.co.uk/goodfood-jan21 Terms and conditions: This offer is valid from the 24 December 2020-27 January 2021 only, and entitles the customer to a saving of £67.05 from the RRP of £240 on the advertised cast iron 26cm soup pot in flint, only while stocks last. Price includes delivery to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. No alternative will be offered. Promotional code only valid for use on lecreuset.co.uk by entering the promotional code provided at checkout. This promotional code may only be redeemed once and must not be passed on to any other person but the recipient. This promotional code cannot be used in conjunction with any other discount, voucher or promotional offer. The discount will not apply to delivery charges for purchases online. There can be no cash alternative. Le Creuset reserves the right to reject any promotional code presented which it deems in its sole discretion to have been duplicated, forged, defaced or misused. Employees of Le Creuset and members of their families are not eligible. Orders will be despatched no later than 10 working days from date of order. Your contract for supply of goods is with Le Creuset (the Promoter). Promoter: Le Creuset Ltd. Registered office: Le Creuset House, 83-84 Livingstone Road, Andover, Hampshire, SP10 5QZ. JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 103

WEEKEND BAKE ZESTY SHOWSTOPPER Citrus zing o sets the rich and creamy soft cheese icing in this cake, while natural yogurt is the secret to its light sponge layers recipe LIBERTY MENDEZ photograph MIKE ENGLISH Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY Food stylist KATY GILHOOLY Stylist LAUREN MILLER Lemon layer cake golden and a skewer inserted into be neat) and smooth with the back with soft cheese icing the middles comes out clean. of a spoon. Chill for 45 mins-1 hr 2 Meanwhile, make the drizzle. until set. Top with the second SERVES 8 10 PREP 50 mins Tip the sugar, lemon juice and sponge, then pipe eight blobs of plus cooling and 1 hr setting 100ml water into a small pan set icing around the edge at regular COOK 35 mins EASY V over a medium heat and stir until intervals, leaving a gap between dissolved. Add the pared lemon zest, each. Spoon the candied lemon 225g unsalted butter, softened bring to the boil and simmer for zest into each gap, then serve. 225g caster sugar 2-3 mins until the zest has softened 4 large eggs and the liquid is syrupy. Remove PER SERVING (10) 690 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 25g • 225g self-raising lour the zest using a slotted spoon and carbs 72g • sugars 55g • ibre 1g • protein 8g • salt 0.6g 1 tsp baking powder transfer it to a sheet of baking 75g natural yogurt parchment, and remove tip 1 tsp vanilla bean paste or extract the syrup from the heat. 3 lemons, zested 3 Leave the sponges to cool Chilling your sponges during For the drizzle for 10 mins in the tins, then the decorating process will 150g granulated sugar pour over the warm drizzle. give you a neater inish. 3 lemons, zest of 2 pared into strips, Leave to cool completely. 4 For the icing, beat the juiced (you’ll need 60ml) butter and icing sugar For the icing together using an electric 150g unsalted butter, softened whisk for 4-5 mins until 150g icing sugar, sieved smooth, scraping down the 1 tsp vanilla bean paste or extract sides of the bowl as you go. 300g full-fat soft cheese Add the vanilla and soft cheese and beat for 4 mins more until 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ thick and creamy. Don’t worry gas 4 and line the base of two if it doesn’t look thick at first – 20cm sandwich tins with baking it will loosen, then thicken again parchment. Beat the butter and as you beat it. sugar together for 3 mins using an 5 Remove the cooled sponges from electric whisk until smooth and the tins. Spoon the icing into a flu y. Add the eggs, one at a time, piping bag fitted with a star nozzle. beating well between each addition Put one sponge on a cake stand or and scraping down the sides of the serving plate, and pipe just under bowl. Fold in the flour and baking half the icing around the edge using powder until well incorporated, a circular motion for a wavy e ect. then fold in the yogurt, vanilla Pipe a little more icing over the and lemon zest. Divide between the empty middle (this doesn’t need to tins and bake for 30-35 mins until 104 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

weekend This impressive lemon layer cake is ideal for a birthday, or simply a fun weekend project JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 105

January sale Exclusive wine case Looking for quality wines that o er good value? Save on this specially selected six-bottle case from the BBC Good Food Wine Club Wine expert Henry Je reys, Pirineos along with the BBC Good Food Selección team, selects all of the wines Tinto on o er to BBC Good Food readers. Henry writes about Somontano DO wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, Wine type worldo booze.wordpress.com. Cabernet He’s also a judge in the Best Characteristics Drinks Producer category for the A smooth red with bright BBC Food and Farming Awards. fruit and layers of spice His book, The Home Bar (£25, Try it with Jacqui Small), is out now. Tom Kerridge’s lamb bhuna, p82 Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for other Domaine wines can be found at: La Lirande bbcgoodfood.com/ wine-club Pays d’Oc IGP Wine type Syrah Characteristics Dark and smoky with black fruit and spice Try it with Chicken arrabbiata stew with parmesan dumplings, p28 A wine for every dish Ever wondered which white wine to match with your pasta? Or curious as to the best reds for steak night? Get clued-up with our handy guide to food and wine pairings and impress your friends at the next dinner party. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/wine-club. 106 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

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BOOST YOUR cooking skills Get confident in the kitchen with tips and advice from the Good Food team Watch our skills videos THIS at bbcgoodfood.com/video MONTH We love to see what you’re making, Make perfect too: share your recipes on our roast chicken, BBC Good Food Together p111 Facebook page and on Instagram #wearebbcgoodfood Seville orange marmalade, p112 The food of Montserrat, p117 MYOYRTKHSBHUI RS TE EPRU D SWe dispel the smoking-hot oil theory on page 113 The lowdown on brandy, p119 & Expert butchery tips from Jessica Wragg on p117 JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 109

PODCAST EXTRA Sabrina Ghayour’s Persian basmati The Rookie Chef rice chelo In our new series Nadiya Ziafat explores the dishes she loves This method is one of the few in the and enlists cookery writers and chefs in getting them just right world that does not cook rice by water absorption. Instead, the rice is parboiled then steamed to achieve elegant, separated grains. SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins COOK 1 hr - 1 hr 45 mins EASY V 500g basmati rice sea salt lakes, crushed 60g butter light olive oil This episode rice you can. Aged basmati is & 1 Heat a large saucepan of water Photograph NONGMIN IMAZINS GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCK GETTY IMAGES PLUS sees Persian even better. over a medium-high heat. Bring to chef and z Use a combination of oil and Tune in to the the boil, then add the rice along with author Sabrina butter for best results (either a light Rookie Chef a generous pinch of sea salt. Boil for Ghayour share a olive, vegetable or sunflower oil). podcast where 6-8 mins or until the rice is parboiled classic Persian rice z Use a sturdy non-stick pan. Cast you can hear – the grains should turn from dullish recipe and reveals iron pans conduct too much heat Sabrina chatting white to a more brilliant white and how to create the and can burn the crust. to Nadiya become slightly elongated. perfect tahdig crust. Her latest z Draining and rinsing the rice about how to 2 Drain the rice and rinse under cold cookbook, Simply, is out now after parboiling is key. Rinse the perfect Persian running water to wash o the excess (£26, Mitchell Beazley). rice thoroughly under cold water rice – available starch. Line the base of the saucepan then leave to drain completely to download with baking parchment. SABRINA’S TOP TIPS before moving on to the next stage. from Acast, 3 Return the saucepan to the hob z Read the recipe before you start! Spotify, iTunes over the lowest heat possible. Add z Choose the best quality basmati and podcast the butter and enough oil to coat the streaming bottom of the pan, and season the services. base of the pan with more sea salt. Scatter the rice into the pan. Don’t pack it as you want the lightness of the falling rice to allow steam to rise. Wrap the pan lid in a tea towel (to make a seal to lock in the steam), cover the pan and cook for around 45 mins on gas, or up to 11/2 hrs on an electric hob. The grains of rice should be pu ed up when cooked. 4 Put a plate or board over the saucepan and invert the rice onto it, making sure to scrape out any crusty bits from the bottom of the pan. Serve the rice with the crust, known as tahdig, face up. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 375 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 6g • carbs 60g • sugars 0g • ibre 1g • protein 7g • salt 1g tip When lining the pan with baking parchment, scrunch up the paper before smoothing it out again. This will make it easier to line the pan. 110 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

skills: beginners STEPS TO SUCCESS PERFECT ROAST CHICKEN WHAT DOES Blanching Roasting a chicken with juicy meat z Check it’s cooked through retains and crisp golden skin is a great skill Pierce the thickest part of the bird BLANCH MEAN? colourand to crack – here’s how to do it (between the leg and the breast) nutrients, and check that the juices run clear Blanching is partially cooking fruit and it’s a Salt the skin before cooking. This – there should be no blood or pink and vegetables to ensure they retain good way helps extract moisture and dry out tinge – if there is, then return to the bite, prepare them for further to prepare the skin so it gets lovely and crisp. oven for another 15 minutes before cooking (such as roasting), or make veg for the You can season your skin 1 12 hrs testing again. Alternatively, use removing the skin easier. To blanch, freezer prior to cooking, and remember to a meat thermometer. It should drop the fruit or vegetables into season inside the cavity as well. read 75C when the meat is boiling water. After 20 30 seconds, cooked through. lift out with a slotted spoon and z Pack in the lavour drop straight into ice-cold water. Try chopping some thyme, lemon zGive it a rest Blanching helps retain colour and or sage, mixing it into softened Once cooked cover the chicken nutrients, and at home it’s a good butter with crushed garlic then loosely with foil and leave the meat way to prepare veggies for the stu ing under the breast skin. to rest for at least 15 20 minutes. freezer. Almost all vegetables can Stu any remaining fresh herbs This allows the juices to settle back be blanched, then lat-frozen on into the cavity with half a lemon in to the meat and gives you a little a tray before being tipped into a or onion (this creates steam that time to prepare anything else you’re container or bag for storage. Try helps to keep the chicken moist). serving alongside your roast. storing root veg, beans and potatoes in this way, then they can be roasted z Choose the right tin & or boiled straight from the freezer. Choose one deep enough to collect (For more tips on cooking from the all the delicious cooking juices and Check out our ‘how to’ video freezer, turn to page 53.) make sure there’s enough space so and roasting method at: bbcgoodfood. the heat can circulate freely around com/videos/techniques/how-roast- the bird while roasting. chicken-video KITCHEN STARTER KIT Box grater FbYsapcosooindalhoxuidcreed’mgeleal(drfssneoa,iesiertrnpeeaesceecnrldhirrtcifaosesoeenreeancrdCcsetomeoazfnw,onuesctirsdssthaitthce-isernhhrulsoagseararitv.fedygsaeIsseecale:ii,eknnh“foeAdooiansrolnpgeutnnyooossiectokaeoaieswdfnttutcoti.slot”hhehtfneiuoscae)nrrk,d. y JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 111

WEEKEND PROJECT Ultimate Seville orange marmalade Marmalade You’ll need around 8-10 sterilised jars for this recipe. Seville oranges have a very short season so need to be gathered and preserved in January. MAKES about 4.5kg There’s something exciting about a glut of them sitting on a kitchen worktop, ready to be turned into gleaming sunshiny jars of marmalade. Dollop on toast or crumpets, swirl into PREP 1 hr 15 mins - 1 hr 30 mins cake batter or churn in ice cream. Here’s how to make it, plus some delicious added lavourings. COOK 2 hrs 30 mins WHAT FLAVOURS CAN I ADD TO MY MARMALADE? HOW TO USE MY MARMALADE? z In decadent desserts MORE EFFORT V z HERBS z GINGER z SPICES Add to a chocolate-based steamed Bay and Peel 100g ginger Aromatic spices sponge pudding for an intense 1.3kg Seville oranges rosemary and slice thinly. like cardamom cocoa-citrus hit. Try our chocolate both pair Tie in 2 muslin work well with & marmalade steamed pudding 2 lemons, juiced well with bags and bruise Seville oranges. with marmalade cream at: marmalade, with a rolling pin. Add 20 cracked bbcgoodfood.com 2.6kg preserving or giving it a Add 1 bag to the pods in step 1 to slightly savoury pan at step 3, infuse. Remove z Drink it granulated sugar edge. Just add once sugar has them before A dollop of marmalade adds sweet 3 large sprigs dissolved. Repeat transferring the fruitiness to a simple cocktail or 1 Put the whole oranges and lemon of rosemary with bag 2 for marmalade to mocktail, taking it to another level. juice in a large preserving pan and or 5 fresh bay the second jars, or leave Search ‘sidecar mocktail’ on our cover with 2 litres water – if it does leaves in step 1. batch. Remove them in for a website. It uses marmalade, honey not cover the fruit, use a smaller the ginger just stronger lavour. and lapsang souchong tea. pan. If necessary, weigh down the before potting. oranges with a heatproof plate to z Make it savoury keep them submerged. Bring to the The sweetness in marmalade works boil, cover and simmer very gently well with salty meats like gammon or for around 2 hrs, or until the peel rich fatty meats like duck and pork can be easily pierced with a fork. chops. Find our marmalade, ginger 2 Warm half the sugar in a very low & star anise baked ham on the site. oven. Pour o the cooking water from the oranges into a jug and tip the oranges into a bowl. Return the liquid Photographs SALLY WILLIAMS PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCK GETTY IMAGES PLUS to the pan. Leave the oranges to cool until easy to handle, then cut in half. Scoop out all the pips and pith, discard, then add back to the reserved orange liquid in the pan. Boil for 6 mins, then strain the liquid through a sieve into a bowl. Reserve the peel and press the pulp through the sieve with a wooden spoon – it is high in pectin so helps the marmalade set. 3 Pour half the liquid into a preserving pan. Cut the peel with a sharp knife into fine shreds. Add half the peel to the liquid in the preserving pan along with the warm sugar. Stir over a low heat until all the sugar has dissolved, for about 10 mins, then bring to the boil and bubble rapidly for 15-25 mins or until setting point is reached. 4 Take the pan o the heat and skim o any scum from the surface (to dissolve any excess, drop a small knob of butter onto the surface and gently stir). Leave the marmalade in the pan for 20 mins to cool a little and allow the peel to settle, then pot in sterilised jars, seal and label. Repeat from step 3 for the second batch, first warming the other half of the sugar. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • gluten free PER TBSP 39 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • ibre none • protein none • salt none 112 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

skills: con ident cook SURPRISING FLAVOUR COMBINATIONS Blue cheese YES IT WORKS! + thyme honey + The bold, tangy lavour of blue cheese pairs perfectly MYTH BUSTER with mellow sweet honey. Add a pinch of chopped fresh thyme to bring out the honey’s loral notes. Yorkshire puddings THE MYTH OIL YOU MA K E THE PAN AND UDDINGS IN WHY I LOVE . . . YORKSHIRE P SMOKING NEEDS TO BE YOU POUR my power blender HOT BEFORE Food writer Shivi Ramoutar IN THE BATTER on her kitchen hero My Nutribullet, now 50 shades BARNEY SAYS I’m as guilty of this to heat fat until it’s smoking hot. As of fading grey, is a vital organ in my as anyone else. The most popular long as you use a thin metal pan, or kitchen. As someone who heavily relies recipe I’ve ever written is for tray, from cold, with cold oil but still on marinades, pastes and spice mixes Yorkshire puddings and, yes, it states going into a hot oven, you will get – from jerk and Scotch bonnet pepper sauces to that the oil in the pan should be perfect puddings. Why does every almond broccoli pesto – these little blades blitz so smoking hot. First o , there isn’t recipe call for smoking hot fat? many heady lavours in seconds, making light work anything wrong with doing this, it Traditionally much heavier tins were of heavy ingredients. Given the amount of Scotch gets good results but can also be used that would have taken a good bonnets those containers have dangerous. We’ve all been there, 20 mins to heat up, and done from it’s the last part of the roast, you’re cold would have left you with a seen, though, I’m shocked already spinning roasting trays, soggy pancake. Modern tins are that my Nutribullet piña boiling veg and jugs of gravy, and much thinner and take a matter of coladas don’t leave now you’ve got to heat oil in a mu in minutes to heat up, so essentially a chilli tingle on tray! Well I’m here to tell you, it ain’t after a few minutes, the oil and the my tongue… so. You can get brilliant individual batter in the cold pan comes up Yorkshire puddings without having to the required temperature. JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 113

NEXT LEVEL Bangers ’n’ mash with onion gravy recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph MIKE ENGLISH SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT WHY STOP If there’s a better way to eat sausages, we have THE SLOP yet to come across it, but this dish often falls short of its full comfort food potential. With To make the best mash, undercooked, one-note gravy, lumpy mash don’t overcook your potatoes. and dubious sausages, you’ve got bad canteen They should be just cooked all food. Made with love, however, you have the way through when pierced yourself a real national treasure of a dish. We’ve ironed out all the mistakes that can with a knife. Beyond that, spoil it, plus made it easier to cook as well. they start to get soggy and your mash will be WHAT TO BUY waterlogged. Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist FAYE WEARS 1 tbsp sun lower oil SFtdnootMohoraeatOcctseoh’OsssniesewTseveihHsenmtateElituaanRymlc.boyUMpui,ts-whcfAerhaeeSaveeueHmsm.yea,asbashuhreit.crIiettif’rs 8 pork sausages (the best quality you can ind) small knob of butter FLUFF IT UP MILK 3 small onions, inely sliced 1 thyme sprig Rather than melting the OR CREAM? 1 bay leaf butter with the milk, you pinch of sugar get a lu ier mash if you You’re in charge of 1 heaped tsp plain lour beat the butter into the how rich you want 1 tbsp red wine vinegar your mash, so we’ve given 1 glass red wine hot potatoes. you the option of just 1 tsp soy sauce milk, or a combo of 400ml beef stock made with 1 stock shot or cube For the mash milk and cream. 1kg King Edward potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks 100ml whole milk or 50ml milk and 50ml cream grating of nutmeg 50g cold butter, diced 114 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

skills: next level ROASTED ONIONS LOCKED IN HOW TO MAKE IT Rather than sweating FLAVOUR the onions slowly, 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ we’ve roasted them. Normally, sausages and gas 6. Heat the oil in an ovenproof This singes them gravy are cooked separately frying pan and gently sizzle the slightly to create a and brought together on the sausages over a medium-high heat deep caramelised plate, but we’ve cooked them for 8-10 mins, turning them, until lavour. together, so the onions cook in the browned on all sides. Transfer to lavoursome juices released a plate, then put the butter in the pan from the sausages. This also and heat until sizzling. Scatter in the onions, stirring them into the butter, makes a meaty base for then add the thyme sprig, bay and the gravy. sugar. Give everything a final stir, then put the sausages on top and SWEET drizzle over any juices from the plate. AND SOUR Roast everything for 20 mins, turning To bring the gravy to life the sausages halfway through. and to help the onions 2 Meanwhile, make the mash. Tip go sticky like an onion jam the potatoes into a pan of cold salted or marmalade, we’ve water and bring to the boil, then turn added some sugar down and simmer for 10-12 mins or and vinegar. until just cooked all the way through (the tip of a knife should slide in NEXT MONTH easily). Drain in a colander and leave for a minute. Tip the milk into the The secret to making pan and bring to a simmer, season super-crisp fish ’n’ chips and add the nutmeg. Pass the potatoes through a ricer into the hot SUBSCRIBE TO NEVER MISS AN ISSUE milk and mash thoroughly, or mash using a masher. Beat with a wooden Receive six issues for just £21.50. spoon or spatula over a very low heat, Turn to page 48 for details then beat in the butter a few bits at a time. Keep it warm. *For full terms and conditions, see page 48 3 When the sausages are cooked, remove from the oven, turn the oven o and lift the sausages onto a tray. Return them to the oven to keep warm. Put the pan back on the heat and give the roasted onions a stir, they should be sticky and slightly burnt around the edges. Sizzle for a minute or two more to caramelise, then stir in the flour and cook for another minute. Splash in the vinegar, simmer for a minute, then pour over the red wine and soy, and bubble down to a gloopy paste. Pour over the stock and boil for 3-4 mins, or until you have a rich gravy. If you prefer, scoop out the thyme and bay, or just leave it in. Tip into a bowl or gravy jug with a serving spoon for the onions. Bring everything to the table and scoop a big mound of mash onto the middle of each plate, then top with the sausages and gravy. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • vit c PER SERVING 719 kcals • fat 44g • saturates 18g • carbs 54g • sugars 10g • ibre 6g • protein 17g • salt 3.5g JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 115

COOKBOOK CHALLENGE The Whole Chicken by Carl Clarke Editor Keith Kendrick makes the most of Britain’s favourite bird thanks to the new book from the co-founder of Chick ’n’ Sours Ilearned to joint a chicken a long TRY IT YOURSELF then in the wet batter, then back time ago. As a dad of three on a into the noodle powder, using your budget, making food go further Ramen-fried chicken hands to work it in. was a mission, so I bought a big 5 Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer knife and poultry scissors and set SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins plus at least or a large, deep saucepan, ensuring to work, severing the legs from the 12 hrs chilling COOK 30 mins EASY it is no more than two-thirds full. carcass, breaking them down into The oil is ready for deep-frying thighs and drumsticks, easing the 2 chicken legs, cut into drumsticks, when the temperature reaches breasts from the ribcage, before and 2 chicken thighs, skin on, 140C, or when a cube of bread boiling up the carcass for stock. bone-in dropped in sizzles in 40 seconds. I thought I had it nailed, until Deep-fry the chicken for 7-8 mins Carl Clarke’s book came along. 2 litres vegetable oil, for deep-frying until it starts to turn golden brown, For the buttermilk brine then remove and set aside. Increase Within its pages, Carl, the 500ml buttermilk the temperature of the oil to 160C, co-founder of the ‘next-level fried For the noodle dredge or check it’s ready by dropping in chicken’ restaurant Chick ’n’ Sours 4 nests of Shin Cup instant ramen a cube of bread – it should sizzle in in London, uses all of the bird – 30 seconds. Deep-fry the chicken feet, skin, fat, o al – to ensure the noodles again for 4-5 mins until cooked chicken is respected. ‘Always buy For the spicy shake through. Remove and season the the best you can a ord’, Carl says. 1 tbsp cayenne pepper chicken liberally all over with the 2 tsp Korean gochugaru chilli lakes spicy shake mix. Serve with a spicy But whatever price you pay soup (Carl suggests ramen broth, (free-range at least, please – it (available online) I used miso soup from a packet). clucked its last cluck for us, never 1 tsp granulated sugar forget), what you can do with it is 1 tsp ine salt GOOD TO KNOW calcium really down to your imagination – 1 tsp crumbled nori seaweed or Carl’s. In the book, he o ers this 1 tsp onion powder PER SERVING 1,071 kcals • fat 61g • saturates 18g • disclaimer: ‘None of these recipes 1 tsp garlic powder are authentic, but they were carbs 72g • sugars 14g • ibre 2g • protein 58g • salt 7.9g created by me, through my lens, tsp smoked paprika & with respect for their origin.’ tsp citric acid For the wet batter Recipe adapted It’s great to see a chef be upfront 1 large egg from The Whole about that at a time when cultural 120ml milk Chicken by Carl appropriation is a serious issue in Clarke (£22, food. And it also helped me decide 1 To make the buttermilk brine, Hardie Grant) which recipe to tackle: ramen-fried whisk the buttermilk with 1 tsp salt Photographs © chicken, a spin on the classic in a shallow bowl. Add the chicken, Robert Billington inspired by David Chang from cover and chill for 12-24 hrs. Momofuku, New York. The idea 2 For the noodle dredge, blitz the is to blitz down instant noodles dry noodle nests in a food processor into a powder and then coat the until you have a powder. Transfer chicken. Carl recommends spicy to a bowl and set aside. Mix the Shin Cup ramen, plus other ingredients for the spicy shake new-to-me ingredients, which together in a bowl and set aside. I had to order online, but it was 3 To make the wet batter, whisk the worth it: super-crunchy and, egg and milk together in a bowl until accompanied by the soup that combined. Set aside. comes with the noodles, very fiery. 4 Remove the chicken from the As Carl says, ‘If you need a chilli buttermilk brine and shake o hit, then this is your baby.’ the excess buttermilk. Dredge the chicken in the noodle powder mix, 116 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

skills: extras THE WORLD IN YOUR KITCHEN Get toknow…Montserratian food In our World In Your Kitchen video series, food writer Keshia Sakarah (@sakarah_) transports us to the Caribbean via the food she grew up with Montserrat is an everyday dish – you could buy it colonised them, or what population & one of the small on the roadside, or people make it in of Africa inhabited them during the islands that their houses. 15th and 16th centuries. Keshia is the arcs down from owner of Caribe’ the bottom of My grandparents came to Britain One of my favourite ingredients restaurant in Pop mainland North in the 1950s during the Windrush is green seasoning – a combination Brixton. Find her America before era, so I’m second-generation, but of sweet peppers, celery, spring video interview you reach South fortunately for me, I spent a lot onion, white onion, garlic and Scotch with Yee Wen America, just o the coast of Antigua. of time with them so I got a lot of bonnet chillies. (@tinygirl When my granddad lived there in the culture through them. That’s eatsworld) on the 1920s, he used to travel back why I know how to cook things My restaurant is called Caribe’ bbcgoodfood. and forth between Montserrat and like this, just through watching my – it’s all about authentic Caribbean com/the-world- Antigua selling fruit and vegetables grandparents go to the market, eating. I really try and mix up the in-your-kitchen, – that’s very normal, if you can’t get doing the whole thing, because they menu and do di erent foods from and her recipe what you need on one island, you brought those experiences with them di erent islands. for goat water can go to the next one. and recreated them here. at bbcgoodfood. Goat water is a stew with com/goat-water in luences from Africa and the My mum took me to Montserrat Irish population that also lived on when I was 14. That was the irst time the island. I made it with my aunty I’d had goat water there – there was when I was little, but, growing up in a man on the island that just sold it in England, it wasn’t a thing we’d have the boot of his truck. We just waited often. It was always associated with where he parks up, and we had it in occasions – weddings, funerals, that a little polystyrene cup and a napkin sort of thing, because there’s certain with some bread. food you don’t have access to all the time. But in Montserrat, it’s more of So many Caribbean islands cook almost exactly the same things, but they just give them di erent names. That’s usually re lective of who BUTCHER’S BLOCK KNOW YOUR CUTS Butcher Jessica Wragg on the best little-known cuts of meat This month, we’re concentrating Ox heart Lamb breast Pork shank & on cuts that have fallen out of Get past the look of this Lamb fat is one of Cut from the hind leg favour. Scarcely utilised and cut and you have one of nature’s delights, and of the pig, the shank Jessica’s book under-appreciated, these three the strongest, bee iest it’s the star of the show has a bone running Girl on the Block (see right) represent meals of times lavours on the entire in the lamb breast or through the middle, (£20, Dey Street, gone by. Nowadays, they usually carcass – and it won’t belly. Around £10 each, giving meaning to the Harper Collins) end up in burgers and sausages cost you more than a lamb bellies need low phrase ‘the nearer the is out now. thanks to their decline in popularity, iver. Ask your butcher and slow cooking. Ask bone, the sweeter the but ask your butcher for them and to slice it thinly, then your butcher to roll the meat’. Try it in Ken you’ll be well rewarded with lavour. griddle it hot and fast. belly, then braise Hom’s Shanghai-style Serve alongside pickled it for a beautifully pork recipe (see right). walnuts and rocket, or rich Sunday lunch Visit bbcgoodfood.com with a salsa verde. centrepiece. for the recipe. JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 117

At Filippo Berio good simply isn’t good enough. Every year, our tasters sample over 6,000 oils from all over the Mediterranean, yet only the very best 6% make it into our bottles. Only if it meets the exceptionally high standards of our founder, Filippo Berio, is it worthy of bearing his name. Find us at your local supermarket today. His signature. Our promise.

skills: drinks DRINKS CABINET Brandy new start Our cocktail expert Miriam Nice shares her favourite brandy recipe, and drinks maestro Salvatore Calabrese reveals the best ways to serve this spirit Brandy sour 1 Tip the lemon juice, cherry syrup, bitters, egg white and brandy into a SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins cocktail shaker with a large handful EASY V of ice. Shake until the outside of the shaker feels very cold. Double strain 25ml lemon juice, plus into a tumbler filled with ice. 1 lemon slice to serve 2 Thread the lemon slice and cherry onto a cocktail stick, rest across the 1 maraschino cherry, plus rim of the tumbler and serve. 15ml syrup from the jar GOOD TO KNOW gluten free few drops of Angostura bitters ½ egg white PER SERVING 170 kcals • fat none • saturates none • 50ml brandy or cognac ice carbs 13g • sugars 13g • fibre none • protein 2g • salt 0.08g Photographer MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist FAYE WEARS EXPERT ADVICE BRANDY, BRANDY KNOW-HOW COGNAC & ARMAGNAC Award-winning bartender, drinks consultant and author EXPLAINED Salvatore Calabrese explains the basics of brandy Brandy is a generic 1 WHAT’S THE BEST WAY we all know what food we like. So, if you term for a grape-wine- TO SERVE BRANDY? tend to enjoy spicy food, don’t try to go for based spirit. Cognac is a brandy that’s delicate in fragrance. Try a protected name for When I drink, I always try to choose the to figure out what gives you an incredible brandies made in and right vessel for the spirit. For refined spirits, experience when you taste it. Sometimes, around the town of I always try to choose a glass with the finest it’s like the ugly duckling – you look at a Cognac, in the west rim possible. The vessel is one of the most bottle and you say, ‘Oh, that’s not appealing.’ of France. It’s known important things there is – it gives a value But, maybe the brandy inside is incredible. as the most refined to a cognac, for example. At home, I love to What I always say is experiment. When you brandy in the world. use a balloon glass. When I watch television are in a supermarket, make a note of what Armagnac, like and it’s cold, and I’ve got the fireplace on, you buy, then draw up a simple table or keep cognac, is named after there is nothing more beautiful than a diary of the ones you like, and the flavours its place of origin, in caressing a nice, large balloon glass filled and aromas you pick up that you prefer. south-west France. It’s with a refined cognac. single distilled (unlike cognac, which is 2 HOW SHOULD YOU GO ABOUT 3 WHICH COCKTAILS WORK double-distilled) and CHOOSING A GOOD BRANDY? BEST WITH BRANDY? tends to be more robust than cognac. Just go for what’s natural to you – after all, I tend to go for drinks with ice before a meal, but after dinner, try something like a brandy Salvatore Calabrese has been a and port without ice. Other classic drinks to bartender for over 40 years, and is try include a stinger – I make it with my an author and cognac expert. He Acqua Bianca liqueur instead of crème de also created the cocktail menu for menthe (acqua-bianca.com) – or a sidecar, The Donovan Bar at Brown’s Hotel which is made with cognac, orange liqueur in London. salvatore-calabrese. and lemon juice. co.uk @cocktailmaestro JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 119

skills buying FISH 5 FFAISRHMED Currently more than SUSTAINABLE 50% of the seafood we consume is farmed. To enjoy seafood into the future, aquaculture has an important role to play. Many concerns about farmed practices have been addressed in some areas including the use of antibiotics, feeds and stocking density. There are over 30 different certification standards promoted by retailers, including Fairtrade, Ethical Trading Initiative and RSPCA Assured. 6 GLOSSARY wCneaortbrtuoensxthftoahouatspttwrininhgtat,thfi’sesohpnilnatngheeqtufi?osKthaecseo,pfuiannrgtmeurepid-stfisosa-hfdea–ttoheoeiswatkcaeaynnd Global G.A.P. is an Photograph MINT IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES PLUS | All the information in this article was correct at the time of going to press while Brexit negotiations were ongoing words CJ JACKSON organisation that certifies standards in aquaculture as well as crops and livestock and can be seen in some of the major retailers. 1 3zBuy locally sourced if possible. ‘GO AHEAD’ & 7 FFOISRHLIINTGTER CHOICES Many fishermen are CJ Jackson is concerned about European hake (landed in principal of the waste, litter, improving their Cornwall and Scotland) is Seafood School fishing gear and other important an excellent alternative to at Billingsgate in environmental issues. New initiatives cod and haddock. Coley London (seafood include recycling fishing equipment training.org). and sending it to third world countries for re-use. ‘Fishing for zChoose different fish, not just is related to cod, but less Litter’ is a scheme where fishermen are given large bags to gather your usual favourites. expensive. Mackerel (look for debris collected in nets during fishing (fishingforlitter.org). They are zTrust your fishmonger – they hand-line caught from the South also improving gear efficiency to lessen by-catch (unwanted species) should have all the knowledge about West). Good-to-eat shellfish include and minimise damage to the seabed. Trials are on-going. their product and be able to give mussels and cold water prawns. information about the seafood they are selling. GLOSSARY 4 2 STAY INFORMED The Marine GLOSSARY The Marine Conservation Stewardship Society uses scientific research Council (MSC) will 8The authority advising across to gather information. Their certify seafood the industry from sea to plate. excellent yearly Good Fish Guide stocks considered They cover everything from traffic light system helps the to be fished at promoting the consumption consumer make sustainable sustainable levels. of seafood, to improving the seasonal choices. The website is These are updated regularly. health of the consumer and much more detailed and one to Many species have the ensuring fishermen are safe keep an eye on each time you shop. familiar blue tick logo. If you at sea. seafish.org To check current updates, visit can’t see these, ask the mcsuk.org/goodfishguide fishmonger – small fisheries can’t necessarily afford the certification but do fish in a responsible way. 120 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

op nioN Photograph STOCKFOOD/JOHNÉR Wof hoautr’s tkhietcfuhteunres? The way we cook and prepare ingredients has evolved since the invention of the pestle and mortar 35,000 years ago. We explore how our cooking habits have changed, and what our kitchens could look like in the future words CLARE FINNEY Also in the opinion section Seek out unfamiliar My favourite 10 ways to make a ingredients dish difference Melissa Thompson’s top 10 Mayur Patel’s Joanna Blythman’s to cook with this year, p126 Gujarati dhokra, p134 suggestions for 2021 , p132 JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 121

Our kitchens re lect who we are and who we want to be G ood Food readers will agree that the Sales of ‘feeling frazzled and missing friends.’ kitchen is at the centre of the home clothing The casserole and the roasting tin are, – and never more so than now. dropped, if you like, low-fi approaches to all-in-one A Home Report conducted by Lloyd’s in while sales of cooking, but the last decade has seen a 2019 found that a third of us spend more kitchenware high-fi version slowly come into its own time in the kitchen than anywhere else in rocketed. in Britain, in the form of the Thermomix, the house. As lockdowns forced us out of Our kitchens Magimix, KitchenAid, Instant Pot and cafés and restaurants, our kitchens became are sites Ninja Foodi, among others. ‘In Spain, the one of our only sources of sustenance, as of self Thermomix is in one in 10 households; in well as entertainment and solace. Sales expression Portugal it’s completely normalised,’ says of clothing dropped, while kitchenware Janie Turner, author of four Thermomix rocketed. In the hours we had previously cookbooks. ‘It’s evolved from being a blender spent commuting, we cooked. Our kitchens, that cooks, to being capable of slow cooking, more than ever before, are sites of self- preserving, making ice cream, cooking rice expression, reflecting both who we are, how and making dough.’ One of its chief draws, we live and who we want to be. Clare Finney Janie believes, lies in its ability to replace talks to designers, historians and writers almost all other surface appliances in your about our love a air with the kitchen. kitchen at a single stroke. For kitchens with limited storage space, which most city- Ultimate convenience dwellers live in now, this is ideal. ‘If I have ‘Closing the oven door and swinging a tea towel over my shoulder is one of the most satisfying movements I make in the kitchen,’ writes Good Food contributor Diana Henry, in her book From the Oven to the Table. Comprising recipes that require little more than a roasting tin, it’s one of a growing number of bung-it-in-the-oven books to be published recently. One of the first writers to really popularise this approach is Rukmini Iyer, whose four-book-strong The Roasting Tin series has sold over half a million copies. ‘Of course, the one-pot idea has been around a while – but the appeal of the tin format is that it’s hands-free and easy,’ she explains. Though there is little in the way of e ort or skill involved, Rukmini’s recipes promise maximum flavour. It’s proved popular because it provides a choice: ‘I can spend an afternoon making pierogi; but I know I can throw something delicious together in 10 minutes,’ she says. ‘You can enjoy entertaining,’ she points out, instead of being squirreled away in the kitchen, 122 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

opinion Rukmini Iyer’s kitchen is designed for entertaining It’s one of a growing number of bung-it-in- the-oven cookbooks to be published recently Diana Henry’s two hours on a Saturday before friends in a space, if you have lots of sharp cookbook is all come over, I can now make four or five corners, you’re pushing people around about all-in-one dishes instead of three.’ and triggering a lot of your fight or flight cooking • You can read Good Food’s appliance response mechanisms.’ Creating a and product reviews at bbcgoodfood. kitchen island in place of counters that Multifunctional appliances, such as com/product-reviews are built into the wall ‘allows people Ninja Foodi, take up limited space to circulate easily, increases your Cook, chat and worktop space and enables you to make eat together eye-contact and chat with others.’ Rukmini is in the middle of installing Open-plan kitchens and the death her dream kitchen, with a peninsula that of the dining room are developments dinner guests can perch at so she can chat Johnny thinks should be celebrated. while cooking. ‘I wanted an entertaining ‘What I love is that people are becoming space,’ she says. ‘I’m hopeful that we’ll more European in their mentality, have people round again.’ recognising the role of food as an organising event even during the day.’ In its design and philosophy, Rukmini’s Johnny has been involved in researching new kitchen encapsulates much of what a multigenerational – described as 4G – kitchen designer Johnny Grey hopes will kitchen with The National Innovation soon become commonplace. For years he Centre for Ageing (NICA) and Newcastle has been lamenting the absence of proper University. The aim is to design kitchens design in kitchens. ‘I don’t mean design that ‘enable people of all ages and in design terms,’ he explains. ‘I mean the abilities to stay in their homes’. Joining scope to put things in to personalise your him on the project is Professor Peter kitchen and make cooking and design Gore, an expert on population and easier.’ At Johnny Grey Studios, he ageing, who pointed out that ‘so much applies neuroscience and, ‘this concept of ageing designing is emotionally called soft geometry. If you think about defective. His idea is to combine the way people circulate and find a route technology and design to make the JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 123

Connected fridge appliances could be the next big thing The majority of people who go into care homes do so because of issues around cooking Open-plan kitchens are more commonplace experience of being in a kitchen safe. The majority is, ‘does it make my life Rotimatic makes of people who go into care homes do so because of easier?’ After all, it took fresh latbreads issues around cooking. He and Johnny want to ‘enable a global pandemic to in minutes people to stay in their homes through creating a really normalise internet kitchen they love and that works for them’. shopping, he points out. An easier life with The next trend that he anticipates taking o is food technology connected appliances, such as ‘fridges with cameras built in, so you can be in the shop and see what’s in Sci-fi is full of soup-stirring robots, but in focusing your refrigerator and what you need to buy’. He on these we risk missing the advantages digital explains that designers are looking at putting sensors technology can bring. Siri, Google Home and Alexa in fridges ‘that act as a digital nose, which detects the are increasingly commonplace, says Michael Wolf, gas food puts out when it’s beginning to expire.’ who runs the Smart Kitchen Summit and food tech website, The Spoon (thespoon.tech). ‘We’re using For now, most technology tends to concentrate on them for meal planning, grocery lists and recipes.’ restaurants – and cleaning. ‘Let’s not forget that,’ says Besides, for all the hype around kitchen robots, ‘from Michael. ‘A good use of robotics would be to automate a cooking behaviour standpoint, consumers change that process more.’ really slowly’. The common thread running through the technologies we do eventually adopt permanently As for the fully robotic kitchens? ‘In 15 years people might be selling them, but there are practical applications: people who, through age or injury, are losing the ability to cook for themselves. People like you and I, who love cooking, won’t change.’ 124 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

opinion inventions that changed the course of cooking 1 THE PESTLE AND MORTAR, 35,000 BC One of the oldest tools known to man, the pestle and mortar, has barely changed in millenia. Evidence of the irst breads were discovered in Amazon Alexa pestle and mortars, and it can be used to plan grocery continues to be – despite lists and recipes The world kitchen electric blenders – used to Making pasta or patatas bravas Countries around the world have prepare everything from grain by hand is a fun taken di erent technologies and experience every adapted them for their own use. for bread and gruel, to so often, but if you’re ‘In India, in the south, a lot of the doing it every dishes involve crushing grains into guacamole, gado-gado and, of day, the idea of a paste,’ says Rukmini. A standard automation appeals Magimix would struggle – ‘so in course, a panoply of spice blends. India they have a sort of electric pestle and mortar attachment, 2 THE CASSEROLE, 1710 Though it’s best called a stone grinder, which known here for slow cooking, the casserole grinds to a fine paste.’ In Nigeria, (or Dutch oven in the States) can be used the Kitchen Aid is iconic. ‘It’s a to fry, roast, bake and create all manner of serious wedding present,’ says dishes, and iterations can be found all over the Professor Deborah Sugg Ryan, world. In 19th-century America, Dutch ovens were a British design historian whose considered so valuable that the inheritor would current area of research is in the be spelled out in the will; something that is not past, present and future of the uncommon among proud Le Creuset owners today! kitchen. Meanwhile, in Italy, the Thermomix is ‘a must-have’, to 3 THE ICEBOX, 1802 This was the forerunner the point that some refer to it as to the fridge, which re ined and electri ied ‘Bimby’, meaning child. In Spain, what the icebox had been doing for more households boast a deep-fat centuries – allowing perishable foods to fryer than a kettle. Again, it goes be stored for longer, without the need for lengthy back to Michael Wolf’s point about preservation processes such as smoking, drying, making life easier. Making pasta or canning. This in turn made fresh food cheaper, or patatas bravas by hand is a fun more nutritious (because it was better preserved) experience every so often, but, and more readily available. ‘if you’re doing it every day, the Photographs CHRIS TERRY, KOHEI_HARA GETTY IMAGES, SOLSTOCK, PICTORIAL idea of automation appeals.’ 4 THE MICROWAVE OVEN, 1946 PARADE, YOGI STUDIO GETTY IMAGES, MARYEVANS INTERFOTO, BENEDICT GREY He cites as a recent example the Like or loathe them, there’s no denying the Rotimatic, invented in north impact microwaves have had on kitchens, America by an Indian-born couple. ushering in ready meals and frozen food, ‘A lot of Indian families make and enabling the quick and easy revival of leftovers. flatbread every day, so many buy The trend for doing everything in the microwave it.’ Yet one of the biggest shifts for disappeared as quickly as it came, however. kitchens of the world has been Microwaves only heat water molecules, largely invisible: social media, so cannot create the delicious, crusty, which has enabled communities umaminess of baking something in the oven. to form around certain appliances and cuisines. ‘Food connects 5 THE ELECTRIC RICE COOKER, 1950 you with place,’ Deborah says. Without an electric rice cooker, the washing, ‘It’s been interesting to see soaking and steaming sticky white rice is an communities come together intensely laborious task. Their introduction online, and connect with each to kitchens in Japan and then across Asia had other through recipes.’ a revolutionary impact on the lives of women, paving the way to them venturing out of the kitchen and into work. JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 125

Melissa Thompson Exciting ingredients to Our columnist hopes to see more people trying unfamiliar foods this year N o New Year’s resolutions here. I live in a city and realise that not Shiso Not anymore. I’m old enough everywhere has access to global to know that I never, ever stick foods. But, the internet is essentially This green leafy herb to them, so I save the e ort and inevitable a massive larder, and most things is most commonly disappointment of failure, and instead are available there. If not, there are associated with Japanese channel that energy into positive things. shops serving diverse communities. cooking. Its strong fragrance is reminiscent I see each year as an opportunity to Here are some of the ingredients of a mixture of di erent fill the following 12 months with new that bring me joy, and I would love herbs, but totally unique. delights – adventures, education and, to see them enjoyed by more people, I used it during my restaurant of course, food. The pursuit of foods whether it’s through experimenting pop-up days, most notably in a unfamiliar to me has enriched my with di erent cuisines and dishes, dish with hake and clams over mindset and diet. Some are completely or just incorporating them into udon noodles. It’s great sliced in new, while others re-imagine familiar familiar dishes to introduce a new salads, or added to brown butter ingredients in completely di erent ways. dimension of flavour. or béarnaise sauce. Even better, it grows brilliantly in most Tamarind UK climates – one plant kept me Native to Africa, tamarind grows well supplied on trees in brown pods. Split throughout open, the seeds are covered in the summer. a brown, sticky pulp, which is the good stu . You can buy the pods Allspice and snack on them as they are, or it also comes in a block or a Allspice is not unknown jar, which will last for ages. It’s a here, but is often reserved great ingredient for introducing for sweet dishes. The a bit of a tang to food. spice is a cornerstone of Caribbean cuisine, and It’s enjoyed across Africa, fundamental in jerk dishes, where Asia, the Middle East and the it’s better known as pimento and Caribbean. It’s even in HP Sauce even Jamaica pepper. but its potential for incorporating into everyday cooking is huge. I love it in savoury dishes – as part During Veganuary a couple of of a crust for white ish and in stews. years back I used it to make Just a touch adds a beautiful fragrance a vegan ish sauce and it was and gives dishes body. perfect. A spoonful in stews adds a brilliant depth. Melissa runs the food and recipe project Fowl Mouths (fowlmouths.co.uk). In 2014, she started a supper club, serving Japanese comfort food that grew into a successful pop-up, which only ended after the birth of her daughter in 2018. She’s been a vocal advocate for the promotion of black and minority ethnic people in food, and now provides advice on all aspects of the industry. @fowlmouthsfood 126 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

opinion seek out in 2021 Plantain Breadfruit It’s hard to walk past a shop Roasted then fried, breadfruit is that’s fronted with boxes of something else – robust, crispy plantain without buying a in bits, yet yielding in others, couple. Well, three – it would with a solid, earthy lavour that be foolish to resist the bargain takes on a slight sweetness. As three-for-a-pound. a carbohydrate, it’s up there with the best. The irst time I had it at my grandparents’ house in My favourite way to cook it is Darlington, it was done in the to roast it whole, close to lames classic Jamaican way that is so the rough green skin blackens seen across the Caribbean. while the white lesh cooks, and Black-spotted fruits sliced at an angle and fried until golden then to fry it. If a ire in caramelised sugars, then isn’t possible, it can served with ackee, salt ish and be fried from raw or dumplings. As I’ve travelled and roasted in the oven eaten at di erent places, I’ve before frying. been amazed at the variety of plantain’s preparation, such as Serve it as a side the green, unripe fruit sliced for brunch or thinly and fried until crisp. Or, with jerk meat. cut into thick slices, fried, squashed and then fried again Ackee salt ish with my mum’s in the way of Latin America. cornmeal dumplings is Now, a host of brilliant chefs, Holding a fresh ackee in my the best start to the day. bakers and cooks are further hand for the irst time was pushing the boundaries of this so strange. Up until that It just needs a warm- wonderful fruit’s possibilities, point, in my early 30s, through – the tinned fruit and I sincerely believe that I’d only ever seen the pale is very delicate and breaks 2021 could be plantain’s year yellow fruit in a tin. They’re up easily – but one of my to hit the mainstream. quite expensive – a 500g favourite ways to eat them can will set you back at least is in a fritter. a iver – but in Jamaica, they litter the ground as casually as windfall apples do in the UK during autumn. I wanted to pick them all up and bring them home with me. Ackee is a fruit that grows on a tree, with a mellow, creamy lavour that’s quite unique. It’s most famously known for its association with salt ish, and a morning feasting on dad’s ackee and JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 127

opinion Grains of paradise where they are still most commonly used, as well I first came across this spice as North Africa where it a few years ago and was is used in tagines. smitten. The small dark seeds have a mild heat and It’s a great addition are often likened to black to curries, stews and pepper with notes of citrus. sauces, and as part of a dry rub for meats They’re native to West before grilling. Africa, a part of the world Hibiscus (roselle Gram flour Cassava or sorrel) Chickpea flour is a South-Asian Whether you know it as cassava, Hibiscus, also known as staple ingredient used for pakoras yuca, manioc or tapioca, this is roselle or sorrel (not to (see Tom Kerridge’s recipe on page a delicious, versatile root. be confused with the 82) and bhajis. It crisps beautifully wild green herb sorrel) There is the small matter of it is a glorious red bloom. and is naturally gluten-free. It also being toxic in its raw state. It Dried and made into a has all of the health benefits contains cyanogenic glycosides, drink, it’s even better. of chickpeas, too – fibre, a form of cyanide, which can be iron and other vitamins. poisonous if eaten at certain levels. Used throughout In the last year, a whole But don’t let that put you off, as Africa, South-East Asia world of possibilities peeling and cooking removes the and the Caribbean, it’s opened up. Thanks to toxins. It can be mashed, grated, enjoyed hot, or as iced Burmese food heroes served as fries or fritters, and tea. It has a tartness to it, MiMi Aye and The turned into flour. like redcurrants, and it’s Rangoon Sisters, we were packed with antioxidants, made aware of shan tofu. My favourite is cassava fritters. so it’s raved about for its Made from chickpeas, in I can make good ones, but no one apparent health benefits. a relatively quick process does them better than Adejoké compared to its soy Bakare at the West African 128 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021 namesake, shan tofu can be restaurant Chishuru (chishuru.com) in Brixton, London. Outstanding. eaten sliced, cold or fried, then topped with ingredients of your To read more from Melissa, go to choice. It can also be toasted or bbcgoodfood.com/writer/melissa-thompson used as a thickener, adding a delicate nutty note to dishes.

28 Joanunpusdaaaterlye CLEVER BATCH COOKING 9Freeze 9Defrost 9Reheat 9Save time • Chicken, spinach & bacon alfredo pasta bake • Chorizo, rocket & preserved lemon calzones • Beef & Boston baked beans • Herby falafels PLUS +C BBC SENSATION OMARI MCQUEEN’S VEGAN SUPPERS +SWEET & SAVOURY PANCAKES +TOM KERRIDGE’S SHARING MENU + NEXT LEVEL FISH & CHIPS Don’t forget You can download every issue on your iPad and mobile

Miriam Nice and Richard Davie’s Best booze-free buys Adecade ago, low- quality. We’ve highlighted LOW AND ALCOHOL FREE BEERS alcohol drinks were a few more of our favourites little more than in that category (see right). LAGER PALE ALE a punchline, but every year, this category gets more So, what is ‘alcohol-free’? Lucky Saint, £1.80 (330ml Adnams Southwold Ghost exciting. New entrants come Some of the entries here are up with clever innovations, labelled ‘low-alcohol’ at bottle), Sainsbury’s Ship, £3.50 (four 330ml and the standard goes up 0.5% ABV, rather than across the board. ‘alcohol-free’. In the UK, From a UK company comes bottles), Tesco anything below 0.5% ABV is a beer brewed in Bavaria, We’re also thinking more no longer restricted under redolent of the Helles style. This is Adnam’s flagship pale about drinking less, and are licensing laws. At less than It’s all soft malt ale, without the alcohol. It perhaps more open to the 0.5% ABV, the drink is and gentle retains a lot of idea that a drink can be unable to render you drunk, bitterness, for the mouthfeel, special even if it isn’t and some breads and ripe a crisp, easy, keeping that alcoholic. Low-alcohol fruits may contain as much satisfying pleasing, beers and spirit substitutes or even more alcohol. lager. It has citrussy hop are finding new ways to a limited note, and goes show o the intensity, We’re now draught down a treat. complexity and satiety perhaps more presence you’d associate with a cold open to the in pubs, too. lager or gin and tonic. idea that a drink can WINE ALTERNATIVES Alcohol-free spirits first be special came onto our radar in 2014 even if it isn’t RED ROSE with Seedlip, which proudly alcoholic stood up for a product that Jukes 6, £35 (nine 30ml Damascene Rose Bubbly, cost £35 and required a trek to Selfridges. Since then, it bottles), jukescordialities.com £20.28 (12 x 27cl bottles), and similar o erings have become available in Not only is this a great luscombe.co.uk supermarkets at rather less substitute for red wine, it’s luxurious prices. In addition really neatly packaged, too. A delightful combination to gin, producers have The mini bottles can be of subtle rose, reimagined alcohol-free diluted to taste, and it’s grape juice equivalents to vermouth, highly portable. and citrussy amaro, amaretto and co ee freshness. Poured liqueur, to name a few. into flutes or coupes, this is Non-alcoholic beer has a very special also improved greatly in the drink indeed last few years, with higher – ring the visibility and greater changes from an elderflower O Miriam Nice is a published author and illustrator. pressé! She has written over 350 recipes for BBC Good Food @miriamjsnice O Richard Davie is a brewer, writer and consultant, with roots in home-brewing. When he’s not making his own beer and cocktails, he works at award-winning micro-pub The Beer Shop (thebeershoplondon.co.uk). @richarddaviebrews O Miriam and Richard’s book, The Art of Drinking Sober (£12.99, Orion), is out now. 130 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

opinion Drinks experts Miriam for 2021 NiceandRichardDavie recommend their favourite low- and zero-alcohol beverages OTHERS TRADITIONAL STYLE HOPPY IPA STOUT APÉRITIF Harvey’s Brewery Old Ale Low Lervig No Worries, Big Drop Brewing Co Golden Hour, £12 (six 330ml Alcohol, £28.40 (24 x 275ml £1.95 (330ml can), Galactic Milk Stout Alcohol- cans), punchydrinks.com bottles), shop.harveys.org.uk beermerchants.com Free, £1.50 (330ml can), If you’re a fan of campari or Aperol, this is a great A classic, just with less Very much made in the image Waitrose & Partners substitute, and an excellent alcohol. It has rich fruitcake of the current vogue for grown-up drink in its own notes and a touch hazy IPAs, this has a full Milk stouts are more visible right. It has a wonderful of chocolate body, opaque glow, negligible than they have been in balance of blood orange, sweetness, bitterness, and lovely, decades, and that lactose bitterness without fruity aromas. works perfectly here, adding and a becoming body and sweetness to natural- unbalanced. It counter the rich, roasty tasting also has light notes of a satisfying stout. sweetness. carbonation, making it a solid option for cask ale fans. SPIRIT ALTERNATIVES KOMBUCHA SPARKLING LIQUEUR GIN Royal Flush, £30 (12 x 275ml La Gioiosa Italian Alcohol- Amaretti, £23.50 (700ml), Sea Buckthorn, £18.99 bottles), realkombucha.co.uk Free Sparkling, £5.99 (75cl), lyres.co.uk (500ml), baxbotanics.com Done right, kombucha gives you the complexity and Ocado This innovative brand has This has a really complex interest of a fermented done a great job of recreating flavour profile – it’s rich in product, without the booze. This light and sweet amaretto without booze. ginger, rosemary and Pair it with food as you would sparkling wine It’s sweet, almondy, rich and chamomile, but a sparkling white alternative has special. Well-chilled, this softened wine or lighter hints of apple, would be a by the sea lambic-style beer. white grape and lovely way to buckthorn. It elderflower. end a meal, or pairs brilliantly It’s a great transition into with tonic. substitute cocktails. for prosecco, and good value, too. JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 131

Joanna Blythman My charter for a brighter food future 2020 was a challenging year, but you have the power to improve your life – here’s how @JoannaBlythman employment for kitchen and front-of-house sta , but also provide W hat a year 2020 was! a crucial outlet for our farmers, Last January we had fishermen, cheesemakers, bakers, no idea that the tectonic and other food suppliers. But this plates of our lives were about to sector – hospitality – has had shift and a ect us all so profoundly. a horrible stop-start 2020. As For the first time since World War many as three-quarters of these Two, we worried for a time about businesses are struggling to remain finding enough food to eat. Weak viable. If you don’t want to see their points were exposed when our shutters go down for the last time, modern food supply system give them your business whenever was put to the test. Anyone you possibly can. And treat them want to revisit that unsettling with tender consideration: no experience? Not me. last-minute cancellations, please. That could be the final blow. Our shopping and eating habits had to change abruptly. We cooked 1Fight o anxiety and Cooking 3Shop small Photographs GETTY IMAGES and baked more at home. We ate depression by cooking takes Local shops came up trumps out less. Now, my heartfelt wish Many people with mental your mind in 2020. Convenience shops for this year is that we’ll move health problems, even those off any we’d never looked at twice sold forward, having learnt from our who just have a tendency to negative collective experience how to build feel down in winter, find that script that’s more lines than many realised. more food resilience into our cooking helps lift their playing in Independent grocers, daily lives, fuelled by a plucky mood and give them a your head fishmongers, butchers, and determination to retain the good stabilising sense of bakers up and down the land features of our 2020 food control. Cooking is experience just as surely as creative, rewarding, and fed their local communities, we ditch the bad ones. mindful. It engages your nimbly adapting their stock thoughts and takes your mind o to meet our changing needs. So here are a few ideas for any negative script that’s playing They acted as anchors for making 2021 brighter and better. on a loop in your head. It gives you Might my charter work for you? a project to fill your day, a sense local communities who Inevitably, you’ll feel more of purpose. Getting hands-on in appreciated the less frantic persuaded by some suggestions the kitchen lets you enjoy the shopping experience. than others. But the liberating physicality of doing something ‘How are you today?’ Little thought here is that we need not with a delicious end point. micro-conversations like this with feel flattened in the face of retailers made all the di erence. In uncertainty. Let’s realise that, 2Cherish restaurants, 2021, improve your food shopping even as individuals, we still have cafés and pubs trips while strengthening your considerable scope for shaping, Local pubs, cafés and community by making small shops and improving our daily lives. restaurants animate our hamlets, your first port of call. villages, towns and city centres, Of course, we can’t control the where they not only create 4 Seek common ground big picture. We aren’t in a position 2020 was a frustrating year to dictate world events, but each of of extreme, polarised us nevertheless retains the ability debates where opposing factions to shape our food futures, albeit shouted at each other from a on a small-scale, personal level. distance. The omnivore versus We just need to remember that vegan debate was a case in point. when we put our minds to it, we’re This year, if we want to be part of more resourceful and powerful than we might think. 132 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

opinion any progressive movement for satisfaction from simple ways real sourdough bread. Work your change, it’s time to be less binary of reinventing your ‘waste’. way up the chocolate cocoa solids and focus our e orts on the things Collect and freeze your vegetable ladder, start with chocolate that that most of us agree on, such as a trimmings as you go – cauliflower has around 45% cocoa solids, then move away from intensive factory stems, broccoli stalks, droopy build up from there: 60%, 70% farming to more animal welfare- carrots, potato peelings – then then 80%. Who knows, you might friendly, and ecologically benign, when you have enough, use grow to like 100%! regenerative agriculture. Change them to make stock. won’t happen overnight, but Pencil in 10 Grow some incrementally. Let’s concentrate 8Conviviality around some diary food, plant for on what unites us, not divides us. the table dates with The restrictions of 2020 the people biodiversity 5Fewer ’poor me’ reminded us just how hard it is to you’ve Even if it’s only a couple of pots on unhealthy treats be separated from other people. missed your windowsill or balcony filled When things get tough our Sharing food with friends and with salad leaves, herbs, tomatoes, first instinct is to treat ourselves, family is a tonic; it lifts the spirits or chillies, use this ‘dead’ time to usually with sweet food that’s bad and acts as a soothing balm plan your late spring and summer for us. This urge is only natural. when life gets tough. So in 2021, food growing. Figure out what you But so many of us have put on share a meal with others whenever could feasibly grow, then stock up weight during lockdown that we you can. Don’t put it o . Seize on seeds, compost, propagator don’t want to keep forever. In 2021 the day. Light the candles. Set trays and pots, so that you’re o let’s move on from the knee-jerk a welcoming table. Make long, to a flying start come spring. One ‘comfort’ food phase and make languorous meals a top priority. winter project is to save and then joyous, pleasurable, health- Pencil in some diary dates with dry out some tomato seeds that sustaining food the new big treat. the people you’ve missed. you can sow indoors from late Choose foods that are nutritious March to early April. By actively and special: dressed crab, a steak, 9Experiment to open up choosing the least ubiquitous plant butter that’s costlier than you’d your taste horizons varieties, you’ll be doing your bit normally buy, fragrant fresh Shake up your ingrained to preserve precious biodiversity. quince, imported lychees, or habits and explore new food chestnuts for roasting. frontiers. If, for instance, you’ve Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning only ever drunk teabag tea, try journalist who has written about food for 25 years. She is 6Go with the seasons loose leaf and learn about di erent also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4. Do you feel that you’ve types: darjeeling, assam, sencha, got into a rut with your genmaicha, and more. If you can Are you changing your food or shopping habits this cooking? Change that mindset a ord to, try superior versions year? We’d love to hear your thoughts. Email us at overnight by embracing seasonal of your regular food. Buy some [email protected] or join our eating. We’ve been brainwashed by handmade local cheese instead of Facebook Together Group at facebook.com/groups/ large supermarkets into thinking your big-brand staple, or sample bbcgoodfoodtogether that choice is having every food on the planet available 365 days a year, but familiarity breeds contempt. Less choice is more choice when the natural flux of seasonal produce constantly refreshes your ideas and triggers your appetite. Seasonal food shopping even makes winter interesting! If you shop and cook to reflect the changing seasons, you won’t run out of cooking ideas. 7Conduct your household food waste audit One really rewarding new year’s project is to note the food and drink you’ve been wasting, and then make a plan to reduce it. Top candidates are chilled foods with unnervingly short use-by dates – salad leaves, tubs of dips, ready meals. If you’re throwing them out uneaten, stop buying them. Get JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 133

MY FAVOURITE DISH Mayur Patel is the co-founder of Bundobust MAYUR PATEL’S GUJARATI DHOKRA Bradford restaurateur Mayur Patel snacky menu of bhaji butties, okra fries and classics shares a fermented batter recipe, like tarka dhal, channels the spirit of his parents’ dhokra – his ideal comfort food side-street deli. ‘It’s going back to bring it forwards.’ words TONY NAYLOR ‘Mum and dad came to Bradford in 1968. Dad’s a mechanic and had a garage, but he always felt we Mum and dad’s plan for me was definitely get Nobody needed to tap into mum’s skills. She was a local a good education and get out of the food makes food matriarch, always cooking amazing food business,’ laughs restaurateur Mayur Patel. samosas for celebrations or Diwali feasts. ‘But we had to take their legacy to the next level.’ regularly – and my ‘Eventually the land my dad’s garage was on was In the early 90s, Kaushy and Mohan Patel opened mum’s are sold, so he was like, “This is a great opportunity, let’s Bradford’s Prashad (prashad.co.uk), a deli, later banging! go all in Mrs P.” They bought a deli and we moved in deli-café, which, after appearing on Channel 4’s above the shop. That’s how Prashad started (the name Ramsay’s Best Restaurant in 2010, was recognised means ‘blessed food’, usually the food Hindus share as one of the UK’s best Gujarati vegetarian venues. at temple). I was about six then, the youngest of three. Demand was such that, in 2012, Mayur’s brother, Bobby, with his wife and chef, Minal, relaunched ‘As a family, we never gathered for dinner because Prashad as a dedicated restaurant in Drighlington. that’s when we were busy. Even now, our family meals are at Prashad. The shop was full-on. I remember dad Meanwhile, Mayur has been busy as co-owner wired a doorbell through every room upstairs so if of Bundobust (bundobust.com), a hip craft beer and customers were waiting he could ring it fiercely, to Gujarati street-food canteen with sites in Leeds, make sure one of us ran down and served. Manchester and Liverpool. ‘I don’t think dad fully understands it,’ concedes Mayur. ‘For them, ‘We did a lot of dried goods like biscuits and developing Prashad towards fine dining was their Bombay mix, and Indian sweets. As well as that, goal, so it’s, “Why have you got chipboard on the we had a paan – betel leaf, chewed to aid digestion walls?”.’ But, for Mayur, Bundobust’s DIY décor and – counter and a counter for samosas, dhokra, kachori and things to reheat at home. We also did very popular chaat. Essentially, Bundo’s is the same recipe. 134 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

Mayur’s parents opinion opened Prashad in Mayur’s parents, Kaushy the early 90s and Mohan, on their Brother Bobby and sister wedding day in Bradford Hina celebrate Raksha Bandhan, a Hindu rite tying the sibling bond with a bracelet – and food! Dhokra is made from a batter that ferments overnight FIVE KEY GUJARATI INGREDIENTS ‘A lot of the food was labour intensive, things that Dhana-jeera potato curry, dhal in so much stuff: are special treats in Indian households. For instance, ‘A 50:50 blend of and farsan.’ bhajis, dhokra, nobody makes samosas regularly – and my mum’s ground coriander all Bombay mix are banging! I don’t know how they made any money. and cumin used Alphonso elements, except The pricing – 10p a samosa – was hilarious. It was to finish dishes. mangoes the peanuts.’ never financially orientated. Mum’s ethos is: the Literally, two ‘What we proclaim feeling you put into creating food makes people happy. teaspoons stirred- to be the best Jaggery through, off the mangoes. In season, ‘This is boiled and ‘Mum did a lot of recipe building and dad, the bulk heat. Mum taught people go mad for set sugar cane juice. cooking, which mum would finesse. Because of his me to brown whole them. They are Mum always told background, dad was good at multiplying on a big spices first but not £15-20-a-box here me to use the dark scale and building equipment to cook in volume. powdered spice. It but every Asian version. It’s like burns instantly.’ family stocks up. a cross between ‘Personally, I’m not into curry, chapattis and rice. The skin is as black treacle and I like Gujarati farsan (savoury snacks) and bits you Aubergines intensely perfumed sugar, and gives have around a curry, like my recipe, dhokra (see ‘This is the king as kids’ sweets.’ things a malty, overleaf). Dhokra is a brunch dish but also eaten as of Gujarati veg. fudgy sweetness. part of a thali, like a starter. It’s served with crunchy Almost like a Gram lour In Gujarat, you sev (chickpea flour noodles) and fried green chillies.’ Sunday roast, ‘Chickpea flour would even add a I also love khandvi, a chickpea flour batter, spread, every week Gujarati is massive. It’s so nugget to curry to cooled and rolled like pasta, and gari rotli, chapattis families will have versatile for frying give it a smooth, filled with condensed lentil paste, sweetened with aubergine and and steaming, and rounded flavour.’ jaggery. Because it’s our main crop, Gujaratis lob sugar into everything. Or we’ll serve mango with a spicy main. We love playing with sweet and savoury.’ JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 135

opinion Dhokra SERVES 8 PREP 30 mins plus overnight fermenting COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT V For the batter 175g chickpea flour 25g semolina 115g plain live set yogurt 1/2 tsp turmeric 60ml sunflower oil 1 tsp Eno’s Fruit Salt (available online or in specialist shops) or baking powder For the masala paste 2 green chillies 2cm piece ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 20g sugar For the tarka 150ml sunflower oil 4 tsp mustard seeds For the apple & pea chutney 100g frozen peas 1/2 large cooking apple 1 bunch of coriander 1 tbsp cumin 2 green chillies 3 garlic cloves handful of sev (chickpea noodles) 1/2 lemon, juiced To serve chopped coriander sev 1 For the batter, blitz the chickpea 4 Quickly whisk the fruit salt or 1 tsp each salt and sugar, the chillies, Photographs MAYUR PATEL flour, semolina, yogurt, turmeric baking powder into the batter. garlic, sev and lemon juice. Blitz and sunflower oil together using There should be some bubbles in until smooth. If it is too thick, add a food processor or hand blender the batter as you pour it into the a splash of water or a little more until smooth. Set aside in a warm oiled baking tray, getting it as close lemon juice. If too thin, more sev. place, covered except for a small to the top as possible. This gives the 7 When the dhokra is cooked, gap to allows gases to escape, and dhokra a sponge-like rise. Put the lid carefully lift the tray from the leave to ferment overnight. The on the saucepan and turn the heat saucepan. Slide a palette knife mixture should increase by about down to medium. (Wrapping the around the edges of the tray to a third and have a sour aroma. lid in a tea towel first helps create loosen the dhokra, then cut into 2 Stand an upturned heat-proof a tighter seal.) Steam for 30 mins. 3-4cm squares and lift the pieces bowl inside a large deep saucepan 5 Meanwhile, make the tarka. Heat out of the tray. Put in a large bowl, for a makeshift steamer. Oil a the sunflower oil in a pan over a then spoon over the hot tarka oil, 5cm-deep baking tray, ensuring you medium heat, then scatter in the making sure every piece is coated. go up the sides, and rest that on top mustard seeds. When they begin Serve warm, sprinkled with some of the bowl. Fill the saucepan with to pop and sizzle, remove from the chopped coriander, a handful of water to 2cm below the height of the heat. Allow to cool for 5 mins, then sev, and the chutney on the side. upturned bowl, and bring to the boil. add 2 tbsp water to the oil, put back 3 Meanwhile, make the masala on the heat and bring to boil. PER SERVING 395 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 4g • paste. Tip the green chillies, along 6 For the chutney, rinse the frozen with the seeds, ginger and 11/2 tsp peas in warm water, then drain. carbs 22g • sugars 6g • fibre 4g • protein 8g • salt 2.3g salt into a pestle and mortar and Core the apple and roughly chop it, grind to a fine paste. Add to the then roughly tear the coriander and fermented batter, along with the tip into a food processor along with sugar and mix thoroughly. the prepared peas, apple, cumin, 136 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

HOME COOKING SERIES A feel-good new year 125 nutrient-packed recipes to help you eat well and be at your best Brunches & lunches Simple everyday meals Outsihnospes?leOcrtdeedr ysotourrseastnmoawgs.dCiraenc’tt.gcoe.tutko the Healthier fruity bakes Collect our other great titles Visit the Apple app store to download digital issues in the Home Cooking Series, including Good Food’s One-Pots, Vegan and Vegetarian magazine. HOME COOKING Triple-tested recipes SERIES from BBC Good Food

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Managing director, Group Commercial Commercial Group advertising Customer food   editor-in-chief director, digital director, print director engagement director Christine Hayes Gareth Mugford Simon Carrington Alex White Jason Elson Sabine Bullmore CONTACT US [email protected] Get the best from our recipes CONTENT LIVE EVENTS Our recipes are triple-tested Group magazines editor Keith Kendrick Group digital editor River Street Events Group managing to ensure they work for you director Laura Biggs Group managing editor Lulu Grimes Lily Barclay Managing director, food & festivals z Read the recipe before starting. Some Sophie Walker ingredients, like salt, aren’t included in the Deputy magazines editor Editor, bbcgoodfood.com Commercial director Rachael Clarke ingredients list. [email protected] z Use standard measuring spoons for accuracy, Janine Ratcliffe Natalie Hardwick especially for things like spices, yeast and salt. ADVERTISING z Where possible, we use humanely reared and Food director Cassie Best Editor, olivemagazine.com produced British meats, poultry and eggs and Head of sales Liz Reid sustainably sourced seafood. Food editor, video Anna Glover Alex Crossley Head of clients Catherine Crosby z To help avoid waste, we suggest how to use Business development managers any leftovers you may have from our recipes. Skills & shows editor Health editor Tracey Raye Rachel Dalton, James Adams z Eggs carrying the British Lion mark guarantee Senior sales, brand that all hens are vaccinated against salmonella. Barney Desmazery Digital food editor Margaret McGonnell z We try to avoid using plastic. You’ll find Sales executive Ellen Cook instructions to wrap or cover, but we won’t specify Projects editor Miriam Nice Georgina Kiely Group head, partnerships Roxane Rix what to use unless it’s vital to the recipe. Senior sales, partnerships Deputy food editors Esther Clark, Audience development Elorie Palmer Helping you to eat well Business development manager, inserts Our BANT-registered nutritionist analyses our Adam Bush executive Alice Johnston Steve Cobb recipes on a per-serving basis, not including Classified sales executive optional serving suggestions. You can compare Food & reviews writer Anna Lawson Digital assistant Emily Lambe Alex McCarthy these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the Regional business development manager official recommended amount an adult should Recipe developer Liberty Mendez Nicola Rearden consume daily. Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar SUBS DESIGN 90g, Salt 6g (please note RIs for total fat, saturates, sugar and salt are the maximum daily amounts). Group content & production Group creative director Healthy recipes are checked to ensure they have manager Stella Papamichael Ben Curtis a low amount of saturated fat, sugar and salt per Deputy content & production Art directors Rachel Bayly, 100g, equivalent to green on a traffic-light label. manager Fiona Forman Gillian McNeill On a per serving basis, Good Food require the Chief sub & production editor Design hub manager saturated fat to be 5g or less, salt 1.5g or less Dominic Martin Gabby Harrington and sugar, 15g or less per serving. Senior sub-editor Senior multimedia designer Low-fat recipes in Good Food are low per 100g, Marianne Voyle Jack Huntley or 12g or less per serving. Sub-editors Video producer Hetty Ashiagbor Low-calorie recipes have 500 calories or less Sarah Nittinger, Hannah Guinness Video editor Andre Moore per main course, or 150 calories or less for a dessert. We also include the number of portions COMMERCIAL INTERNATIONAL MARKETING & of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and highlight SUBSCRIPTIONS recipes that supply a third of the daily requirements Digital publisher Director of international of calcium, iron, folate and vitamin C, and a good Anna Priest licensing & syndication Group marketing manager source of fibre and omega-3. Head of partnerships Tim Hudson Tom Townsend-Smith Balanced recipes contribute to your five-a-day, Marc Humby Syndication manager Senior marketing executive include starchy carbohydrate, a lean source of Richard Bentley Amy Donovan protein and dairy or plant-based alternatives. These CONTRIBUTING International partners manager Insights & optimisations manager recipes also use unsaturated oils in small amounts, EDITORS Molly Hope-Seton Seren Thomas and all components of the main meal are included Digital marketing manager Laura Jenkins in the analysis – only seasonings are exluded as ‘to Rosie Birkett AD SERVICES Social media executive Nadiya Ziafat serve’. Saturated fats, sugar and salt are medium Joanna Blythman Digital marketing executive Rob Payne per 100g, or amber on a traffic-light label. Marverine Cole Ad services director Senior PR manager Kathryn Custance (TV) Sharon Thompson Ridhi Radia 020 7150 5016 How we label our recipes Emma Freud Display ad services manager Reader offer manager Liza Evans Vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly Diana Henry John Szilady Subscriptions director Helen Ward labelled, but be sure to check pack ingredients. Henry Jeffreys Ad services manager Subscriptions marketing manager Freezing (G) Can be frozen for up to three months Tom Kerridge Eleanor Parkman-Eason Sally Longstaff unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and Victoria Moore Senior ad services co-ordinator, Direct marketing executive heat until piping hot. Tony Naylor display Sarah Barker Alex Havell z Recipes for advertisement features are checked Melissa Thompson Ad services co-ordinator, Head of newstrade marketing by our cookery team but not tested by us. Kerry Torrens (nutrition) classified Hugo Wheatley Martin Hoskins z Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, Ad services co-ordinator, inserts Newstrade marketing manager but this may exclude serving suggestions. Agata Wszeborowska Alex Drummond For more info, visit coeliac.org.uk. z We are unable to answer individual medical I N N O VAT I O N PRODUCTION or nutritional queries. Director of digital strategy and Production & repro director Koli Pickersgill implementation Hannah Williams Production manager Lee Spencer Lead content strategist Senior repro technician Darren McCubbin Roxanne Fisher Repro technician Jonathan Shaw Senior product manager Mariana Bettio Group managing director Chris Kerwin Finance director Stephen Lavin CEO Tom Bureau BBC STUDIOS, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL BBC GOOD FOOD BOOKS UK PUBLISHING REVIEW BOARD Editorial director Chair, Editorial Review Boards Executive producer, features, Lizzy Gray Nicholas Brett formats & events Editor Managing director of consumer Catherine Catton Charlotte Macdonald products & licensing Stephen Davies Head of audio & music cmacdonald@penguin Head of publishing Mandy Thwaites production, Bristol randomhouse.co.uk Compliance manager Clare McGinn Cameron McEwan Sue Robinson UK publishing co-ordinator Glynn Pegler Eva Abramik [email protected] This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Limited under licence from BBC Studios © Immediate Media Company Limited, 2020. Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT JANUARY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 145

last bite Tonight’s InspiredbyThaiflavours, recipe ESTHER CLARK special thisfakeawayismadeeasy photograph CLAIRE WINFIELD with an all-in-one method – and it works with cod, too Fragrant coconut, salmon Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist WEI TANG & prawn traybake SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY 1 tbsp sunflower oil 5 tbsp Thai red curry paste 2 garlic cloves, grated thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated 2 x 400ml cans coconut milk 1 red chilli, halved 1 tbsp fish sauce 3 lime leaves (optional) 4 thick salmon fillets, skin left on 4 baby pak choi, cut into quarters 150g mangetout 150g raw king prawns ½ small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped 2-3 limes, cut into wedges, to serve cooked jasmine rice, to serve 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Heat the oil in a deep frying pan or wok, and fry the curry paste, garlic and ginger for 1 min. Stir in the coconut milk and chilli, and bring to a simmer. Add the fish sauce and lime leaves, if using. 2 Pour the mixture into a medium roasting tin, and nestle in the salmon, pak choi and mangetout. Cover and cook in the oven for 15 mins. Scatter in the prawns and cook for a further 10 mins. Garnish with the coriander and serve with the lime wedges and rice. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 801 kcals • fat 61g • saturates 33g • carbs 13g • sugars 8g • fibre 6g • protein 46g • salt 2.4g INNEXTMONTH’SISSUE Get set for Pancake Day with our sweet and savoury ideas, plus foolproof one-pots for busy weekdays. 146 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2021

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