Adventures in Sailing

• Some other interesting races aboard Kewero were the “Lake Ontario International Race” one of which, sponsored by the National Yacht Club had its start in Toronto and went to a buoy off the Weiland Canal then onto Main Duck Island and finishing in Rochester. The second started and ended in Rochester, I honestly forgot the mark roundings we made, just know the distance was about 125 miles and it took us about 52 hours to do it.

Scotch Bonnet Race

• The Scotch Bonnet race, sponsored by the Genesee Yacht Club is still another race that I did aboard Kewero twice. • It was generally held on the Father’s Day weekend in June, and while a nice sail across the lake and back it was guaranteed that you would be in “freeze” mode at sunrise about 5 AM or so. • Now it’s being held in August

The Level Regatta

• Of course with each race was a souvenir t-shirt and at several times a Mount Gay Hat. The Mount Gay logo that is found on the hats and t-shirts is one that is reserved for race participants. • You can’t buy any with it on them. It is “earned” by participating in the races which are held all over the US and the Caribbean. .• I’ve gotten a few of them but several somehow just disappeared

The Unpaid Hand - George Culp 1941 The Unpaid Hand in a gale o’ wind Soaked to the bone – his knuckles skinned Settin’ the spinnaker – takin’ it in Hoistin’ the genoa – searing like sin Hikin’ to weather to trim the boat Bailing like hell to keep afloat Haulin’ the backstays – trimmin’ the main Over’n over’n over again. And when the races have been all run And the boat he crewed one’s the boat that won, And the lucky skipper is steppin’ up To get his flags and the Silver Cup Back in the corner – feelin’ grand With a grin on his face – sits the Unpaid Hand.

A certificate that was given to the crew of boats that sailed at RYC. reads The Unpaid Hand by George Culp -1941 I doff my hat to the unsung crew TWhehTothodailoitnhtghaetrhdtryho,innloggys–atlth,hefeayiU’trhenfuptolalbiddatnHodadnod;. The unpaid hand in his dungarees, ARopuSuglolihnthgae’ntdSheaRsseshayedSeytasalnawdnodani’cmtlefiinna’itsitnoh’ pleolmesat.fsaes,t The Unpaid Hand who bolts and burns OnAIarnewahiensldilzltzeolsinhsgadnsaduyln,ewoahnnedanhlitashlreedsbtsouloamykaetku.erns The Unpaid Hand in a gale o’ wind SoaHkeSodiesttttioinn’t’httheheebgosepnnienon–aah–kiessrek–anrutianckkgilneli’ksietsiksniinnned HBikainil’intog wlikeeathheelrl ttoo ktreimepthaeflobaotat Haulin’ thOevebra’nckosvteary’sno–vterirmamgainin’ .the main

1993 Kewero is Sold

As can be expected not all good things last forever. It costs a pretty penny to keep a boat, maintain a yacht club membership, dockage, storage, new sails, sail repairs, etc. Overall maintenance costs add up and after the Summer 1993 string of races which include day races, the Freeman Cup, and the Levels, a few of us found ourselves without a boat to sail on. During the Fall, I bounced was able to get aboard a C&C36 for a few races but hell, I was now 52 and I’m going to guess that the average age of the crew on board was about 35 so I was an ancient mariner. Time to rethink buying another boat. But then in February of ‘94 while having lunch with my friend, Henry who first introduced me to bigger boat racing on the Susan B. Anthony, I asked him what his plans were for the upcoming sailing season. He told me that his crew wanted to do another Newport to Bermuda race but he really wanted to go down the St. Lawrence. My response was that he should. He was 65 at the time and if now then when? He said he would if I joined him. Well “What would you say?”

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway July, 1994

I had many great sails on Kewero, but things change. Especially when the boat gets sold. I jumped aboard a few other boats during the remainder of ’93 and then in January or so of ‘94, at lunch with my friend Henry Williams, we got to talking about his plans for the upcoming sailing season. I asked him what he was planning to do. His response was the “His crew wanted him to do another Newport to Bermuda Race, but he really wanted to go down the St. Lawrence ro Nova Scotia and Newfundland”. I suggested that he do it. He said he would if I would go with him. What was I to say to that? Of course I said I would. So in July of ‘94 we set sail. Of course, as was normally the case when Henry made plans, his office manager arranged for dockage along the way and he asked others to join in the trip. As it turned out, I was scheduled to be on board from Rochester to Quebec, at which time there would be a crew change.

Days 1 – 10 (July 1 – July 10) Rochester to Quebec

So we left the morning of July 1st with the plan to stop, with the exception of the first few days, about every 40 or 50 miles along the way. On board were Henry Williams and his friend Janet, Bill and Kathy Mitchell, Rick, and me (Dave Schantz). The itinerary for the first 10 days that I was to be on board was: July 1- Rochester, NY (10:10) to Oswego NY (17:30) July 2 Oswego, NY(06:45) to Alexandria Bay,NY(19:15) (quick stop in Clayton for mechanical problem) July 3 Alexandria Bay, NY(13:00) to Prescott, ON(17:15) July 4 Prescott, ON(07:07) to Salaberry de Valleyfield, QC(19:05) July 5 Salaberry de Valleyfield(07:45), QC to Longieul, QC(18:20) July 6 Layover day in Montreal ( tour of old Montreal, Jazz Festival, shopping, maintenance) Lost one crew member July 7 Longueiul, QC (07:30) to Trois Rivieres, QC (16:10) July 8 Trois Rivieres,QC(06:30) to Quebec City, QC(16:00) Changed Crew July 9-10 Quebec City, QC Layover tour of city, boat maintenance, laundry, flushed water tanks, shopping for food

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Days 1 & 2 Rochester to Oswego to Alexandria Bay July 1- Rochester, NY (10:10) to Oswego NY (17:30) July 2 - Oswego, NY(06:45) to Alexandria Bay, NY(18:35) (quick stop in Clayton for mechanical problem).

On day one we sailed and motor sailed fro RYC Rochester NY to Oswego Harbor. Tied up at a dock on the river near the back entrance to the Days Inn. Went in for cocktails then had dinner aboard. Chicken oregano, rice peas and carrots, salad and wine. Noticed a small oil leak. Had a mechanic look at it who could not resolve the problem. On day two, departed Oswego at 06:45 for Alexandria Bay, NY with a planned stop in Clayton to get a mechanic there. Arrived in Clayton 15:00, where a mechanic was able to fix the oil leak. We bought 5 gallons of diesel fuel then proceeded to Alexandria Bay. We had reservations but the marina would not acknowledge them. Motored around a bit, hit a rock, one of our crew was injured. Took her ashore for medical attention. Kathy wound up spending the night in the hospital . A friend of Henry’s heard our discussions with the marina, came by and led us to a dock at his condo across the way on Wellesey Island, Ont. Had a good night there and enjoyed a nice swim in the morning in water about 69 degrees warm then took a short boat ride to Alexandria Bay for. Had the Farmers (Bill, Geraldine) for dinner and then the following morning had them with their two children and a friend who was visiting the for breakfast. Made pancakes. After breakfast went back to Alexandra Bay to pick up Kathy, get some RX and some provisions

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Days 3 & 4 July 3 Alexandria Bay, NY(13:00) to Prescott, ON(17:15) July 4 Prescott, ON(07:07) to Salaberry de Valleyfield, QC(19:05)

On day three, we started the day by taking a swim in 69 degree water, making breakfast for the Farmers, their children and a guest of theirs. Had pancakes. Bill Farmer then gave us a ride to Alexandria Bay where we got Kathy back on board and did some minor shopping for some food items. We left Wellesey Island at about 13:00 hrs en route to Prescott Ont. Had an uneventful trip. Arrived at 17:15. Took a walk into town. Nice town but not much going on. Back on board had a bit of a happy hour, then dinner and some quiet time. Day four – left Prescott at 07:07 hrs. Passed under the Ogdensburg–Prescott International Bridge about 20 minutes later and then passed through the Iroquois Lock. The first of the 7 locks on the river that we needed to go through. Not all were quick to let us through. While we were able to get through the Iroquois Lock in less than a half hour, the next one, the Eisenhower Lock took quite a bit longer. We waited for over an hour before being able to enter it. The third one, the Snell Lock was somewhat quicker

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 4 – Prescott to Valleyfield (continued) July 4 Prescott, ON(07:07) to Salaberry de Valleyfield, QC(19:05)

Day four – left Prescott at 07:07 hrs. Passed under the Ogdensburg–Prescott International Bridge about 20 minutes later and then passed through the Iroquois Lock. The first of about 7 locks on the river that we needed to go through. Not all were so quick to let us through. For the next one, the Eisenhower Lock, we for waited at the siding for over an hour before being able to enter it. Getting though the Snell Lock was somewhat quicker. Then it was on to Salaberry de Valleyfield, Quebec where the natives do not like to speak English. There was a narrow and questionably deep channel we needed to get through. We were warned of its possible shallowness by a fisherman and contacted the port office to get more details. The Marina Operator there welcomed us and guided us through the channel. Since the boat had an 8’ draft it was slow and cautious moving, but we made it. Finally getting to a dock at 19:05 hrs. To thank Natalie, the marine operator, we invited her to join us for breakfast the next morning where we served up, what else but French Toast. Never made it into town.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 5 Valleyfield to Montreal

Day five – Left Valleyfield at about 07:45, after having breakfast with Natalie. Cleared the channel an hour later then passed under two lift bridges, The Valleyfield and the St. Louis Bridges and then went through a few more locks- (The Upper and lower Beauharnois, the St. Catherine and the St Lambert ) and under another lift bridge. It took awhile to get through these getting through the first at about 09:00hrs and clearing the last one about 17:50. Much waiting in the interim. Arrived at Pont du Plaisaine-Longieul, Montreal Quebec at 18:20. Had a bit of a problem with channel marks that were not n the nautical charts. Some scraping bottom but no major damage. For a change, had dinner in a good restaurant. I didn’t have to cook. Henry, Janet, Bill and Kathy checked into a Holiday Inn for the night leaving Rick and I aboard to keep an eye on the boat.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 6 Lay Day in Montreal

Day 6 Layover day in Pont du Plaisaine-Longieul, Montreal. Turned out to be an interesting day. After and early breakfast, Rick and I washed the boat and got some diesel. I did a bit of shopping for food item to get us through the next few days, then called a “friend” I met while doing some work on a photofinishing study earlier in the year. Rick called his Son and said he had to leave the boat. He arranged for a flight out. My friend gave him a ride to the airport, and afterwards gave me a nice tour of the Old Montreal area and some insights about growing up there. We then went to the Jazz Festival and I got back to the boat about 10:30 or so. Henry, Janet, Bill and Kathy stayed at a hotel for another night.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 7 Montreal to Trois Rivieres

• Day 7 Longueil to Trois Rivieres. Got underway at 07:30. Somewhat uneventful day. Rainy and wet. Went through Lac St. Pierre, passed unter the Point Laviolette Bridge, the only bridge that spans the St Lawrence River between Montreal and Quebec. Arrived at the Trois Rivieres Marina at about 16:10. Got some diesel. Had Rigatoni and Meatballs for dinner.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 8 Trois Rivieres to Quebec

Day 8 Trois Rivieres to Quebec Departed 06:15 hrs. Cold rain, River rougher than what its been to this point in the trip. Needed foul weather gear on deck as waves were breaking over the bow. Arrived in Quebec at Basin Louise at 16:00 hrs. Went ashore, had dinner at a restaurant in the Old City. Jim and Heidi Egansberger came aboard. Bill and Kathy Left. Sean Spacher who was supposed to relieve me decided not to come. I was asked if I could continue on. I did. Total miles to Quebec from Rochester – 359.7

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 9 & 10 Quebec City

Day 9 (Saturday) Layover in Quebec. Henry and Janet, Bill and Kathy went to Le Chateau Frontenac. Bill and Kathy were to drive Jim and Heidi’s car back to Rochester the next day. Jim, Heidi and I used the time to flush and refill the fresh water tanks, refuel, changed the oil and did some work on the water pump which started acting up. I laid out a plan for food for the next 10 day and went shopping for the items, thinking too that as we continued on we would get frest meat and fish at the next ports we visited. About 16:00 hrs finally got to go into the old city. We had dinner out. Day 10 (Sunday) Used the laundry facilities in the AM then went touring more of the city new and old. Toured the Parliament Building, more of the Old City then wandered into the Jean Baptiste section of the city where some kind of art festival was in progress. A nice find.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Days 11-24 Quebec - Prince Edward Island

July 11 Quebec City, QC(06:50) to Isle aux Courdes, QC (15:15) July 12 Isle aux Courdes, QC(07:16) to Parc Saguenay, QC(18:00) July 13 Parc Saquenay, QC (07:00) to Tadoussac, QC((13:15) Took boat tour around the Fjiords on the Saguanay River. Bought Fresh Salmon from a stand near the river. Mileage at this point 515.8 July 14 Tadoussac, QC((07:12) to Rimouski,QC(15:45) Commercial Port [568mi] July 15 Rimouski,QC(07:50) to Matane(14:45) to Les Mechins, QC(16:15) July 16 Les Mechins, QC(06:30 to Grande Vallee,QC(17:30) [713 mi]) July 17 Grande Vallee,QC(07:30) to Gaspe,QC((1500) July 18,19 Layover Gaspe July 20 Gaspe,QC(11:00) to Summervile,PE(Overnight Sail. ~180 miles July 21(13:00) Arrived Summerville, PE

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Days 11 & 12 Quebec City to Isle-aux-Courdes to Parc Saguenay

Day 11 – Quebec to Isle-aux-Courdes. On leaving Quebec and for the rest of the trip we needed to deal with the tides and were now heading into Salt Water. We needed to leave Quebec before 07:00 hrs in order to take advantage of the high tide, Of course this helped to move us along too as then the tide started to ebb and we were with the tide on the way to Isle- aux-Courdes (~50 miles). Arrived at the marina at Isle-aux-Courdes at about 13:50. Needed to wait about an hour and a half before tides were favorable to enter the channel. Day 12 – Isle-aux-Courdes to Tadoussac and Parc Saguenay. Left at about 06:00 to get the favorable tides to get through the channel. Weather turned quite chilly. Water temp was about 44 degrees. Got to Tadoussac at about 12:40 so decided to stop there on the way back and continued up the Saguenay River to Parc Saguenay. Began to see wales at the entrance to the river where the cold waters and amble fish folowing into the St Lawrence attract them. Rained while going up the river but then turned pleasant by the time we arrived at the Parc Anchorage, (There was a guy there collecting a $5.00 charge. Not sure he was legit but paid it anyhow.)

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 13 Parc Saguenay to Tadoussac, QC

• Day 13 – Parc Saguenay to Tadoussac. Got up about 07:00. Had breakfast then motored around the area checking out the Fjords and waterfalls. Weather cleared and saw some sunshine. A nice relief after the rain the day before. Saw a number of whales and a few cargo ships in the river. • Got to Tadoussac at about 13:15 in 27 knot winds. Low tide but were able to get into a slip at the marina. Took a long walk around the area. • On the way back to the boat came across a person selling fresh salmon. Got some for dinner.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Days 14 & 15 Tadoussac to Rimouski to Matane to Les Mechin to Grande Vallee Rimouski, Matane, QC Les Mechin, QC QC Grande Vallée, QC Grande Vallée, QC

Day14 Tadoussac to Rimouski. Left at 07:12 in chilly but sunny weather. Winds were favorable for sailing. The fist time since entering the river that we were able to sail. Arrived in port at ~15:45. Docking was along side a high wall. It was a commercial port at the time and not designed for smaller craft. No shops in the area for buying food. Had hot dogs, sauerkraut and potato pancakes for dinner. Day 15 Rimouski to Matane to Les Mechin. Headed out at 7:50 hrs. Arrived at Matane at 14:45. It was a commercial port with no good dockage for a small (44’ boat) Henry had to go to town to pick up a SSB Radio that was left for repair in Quebec and shipped to Matane for pickup. Left for Les Machine at 16:15 arriving there at ~20:00 hrs. It too was a commercial port so decided to anchor instead. Rigged the anchor light but a ship in dry dock was scheduled to leave at 21:00 hrs. Finally left at 00:30 hrs. Skipper stayed up until it did.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Days 14 & 15 Tadoussac to Rimouski to Matane to Les Mechin to Grande Vallee Rimouski, Matane, QC Les Mechin, QC QC Grande Vallée, QC Grande Vallée, QC

Day 16 Les Mechin to Grande Vallee, QC. Awakened at about 06:30 by hearing the engine running and the anchor being hoisted. Got up, helped stow the anchor and we were underway by 06:45 in heavy fog and rain. Got to use the radar. First time we needed it. By afternoon, the fog lifted and we were able to sail on jib alone. Got to Grande Vallee at 17:30. Tied up at a public wharf, had dinner then walked into town. Very typical of what we were seeing along the cost. A church located on the shore was very prominent. Milelage to Grande Vallee – 713 mi.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 17 Grande Vallee to Gaspe, QC

• Day17 Grande Vallee, QC to Gaspe – • Early morning, about 04:30 awakened by noises on deck. Checked out the situation. Appeared to be slack lines. Adjusted them and returned to the rack only to be awakened again by Jim running the engine and getting things ready to leave. Rounded the Rosiers Point lighthouse around 14:00 and entered the inlet leading to the city port.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Days 18, 19 Layover days in Gaspe, QC Gaspé, QC Rocher-Percé, QC Rocher-Percé, QC

• Day 18, 19 Layover days in Gaspe. Rented a car and toured the area. Went to Perce Rock, and to areas west and north of Gaspe. Interesting area. • Big logging area. Good shops. Friendly people in the area. Seemed to be a Summer resort area.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 20 Gaspe, QC to Summerside PEI

• Day 20 Gaspe, QC to Summerside, PEI Left in early after noon for an overnight sail from Gaspe to Summerside. ~180 miles. • Passed Roche Perce on the way out. Even more impressive from the ocean side. Winds favorable for a beam reach. Had a full moon at night. Cooked up a large pot of Chili for the watch crew to eat during the night. • Got into Summerside about 13:00 hrs. Was met by a member of the Summerside Yacht Club who guided us into the dock. Once settled went to the yacht club for dinner and drinks.

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Days 21 thru24 Layover Days Summerside, PEI

Day 21 thru 24 (July 21-24) Lay Days in Summerside PEI Much going on in the area. Got to go to a small music show featuring local musicians, including Guitarist/Songwriter Gene MacLellan the writer of the Ann Murray hit song Snowbird. (He committed suicide the next year in 1995). PEI’s Confederation Center of the Arts had a show going on in an outdoor part of the theater, which we got to enjoy and there was some reenactments of early settlers going on in the port. One of the Yacht Club members gave us a tour of Charlottetown. (Was there in 1959 as part of a U.S. Naval Reserve cruise. At that time it was Moose Head Ale and other not so touristy things.)

A Trip Down the St. Lawrence Seaway Day 24 End of Trip (for me) Next Stop Baddeck, NS

Since Tim Owen and his infant daughter were to come aboard in a day or so, I decided to take a flight home. Booked one for the following day. A couple from the yacht club offered and gave me a ride to the airport. The next stop for the boat was Baddeck NS. In September Rick Shannon and I would drive up with the boat’s truck.

Cape Breton & Bras d’Or Lake Cape Breton, NS & Bras d’or Lakes The Cabot Trail