GQ

["SHIRT (PRICE UPON REQUEST) BY MANS. TIE, \u00a3400, BY GUCCI. WATCH, \u00a345,400, BY CARTIER. RINGS (ON LEFT HAND AND RIGHT INDEX FINGER), HIS OWN. RINGS, \u00a3155 (ON RIGHT MIDDLE FINGER), GQ \u00a3225 (ON RIGHT RING FINGER), AND \u00a3275 (ON RIGHT PINKIE), BY THE GREAT FROG. LAPEL PINS, \u00a3525 (TOP) AND \u00a3975 (BOT TOM), BY CHROME HEARTS. LAPEL PIN (MIDDLE), \u00a32,625, World FROM KENTSHIRE. SHREDMASTER KEITH: GROOMING, MELISSA DEZ ARATE USING KEVIN MURPHY. TAILORING, ALBERTO RIVERA AT L ARS NORD STUDIO. Drops PHOTOGRAPH BY CIAN MOORE SSTTARRIPSES FOR Starring STYLED BY BRANDON TAN ybtpoLhrstieuiprtahnagmxer\u2019hewarnshuIoeaaenrentdtenmrdhvrahonatgiecesapnpheuo-renptssiselairmlnhissothedfdppgaiwmnboaeeoeuwtatounridss\u2019redtialpslstt.lswetdet-hueshouriWeh-ohimsegiwltretenieFlmmnbShibrg,.HteeleaAet,oeaeeatrttman,ioettrgnndieieetbnsrtun,egydt\u2013oeiu,t Shredmaster Keith. VbSb\u00a3atyJao1craiAo,cocn1tnaukt0strse0,hLeet,oalr\u00a3,nlaus9\u00a3yon,r72.ed5,,n2tb20y, B y YANG -YI G OH, BOBtNKshohoOpnrtckpeYsehooopfeethRraabiauCihtanonmrvututnwrilsthNnuieohhsssoxooeiretssyaaysta,-oa,bso.dlsbttntTtsvbteaa.prtrn\u201cuagkoakoiOeaiesoInHIcs1aiianrypni\u2019acdvse1nrdmwkdsgalsiSh-ere,nostsen,atr.surideeHtaknon,itoooad\u201cctaKshp\u2019ntrnatlsitRylurInttcdmoanesrtdohtdsulydndroEkyaenuiiteiketaaatnaidtinmDaiyohkshIdranntphlg,onor,elssoawitncgepyuyHinnItwdir\u2013itnh\u2019\u2019tnnmhroobistmtcao.nhnpsatuioggueubomloraaaSoean,erihu,ldsi\u201dgoynktccdhfmsdsndaalicncyroeleadashssrhng.awrhec\u201daguaenarlaiidydobcoirb.lnSrndtneydvfomaafnrns\u201cliasaadmtoiioeoanbzrYnAnhZsbsttrSniawydKaehoagihndewhilstuvmfvn-eisiuApnMenogieunusehtneoitctay,rrthpigebfetdnofnesKotsthbihUwairnostwatt,tt,tr,uieuevshyatsyhchtawnte,iMErrlrrstroesinenonihodnht\u2019hnmgesdusLueooiA,s\u2019tgw\u201dshHO IUNI E OCTOBER 2022 GQ 47","T WO - FAC E D PATCHWORK VEST FASTENERS Nobody said your three- Keep the shell pearls piece hadto match. on these cuff links Acne Studios\u2019 freaky, from British jeweller textural, pattern-happy Completedworks waistcoat will transform right side up on more your standby charcoal suit formal occasions, into asuperchargedparty then flip them to the fit(price uponrequest). jade-toned resin blobs ORNATE when you\u2019re feeling SHOW-OFF SHIRT COORDINATES funkier (\u00a3130). This autumn marks Needles broke through Miu Miu\u2019s first stateside on the strength FUCHSIA FROCK menswear offering in of its A$AP Rocky- The choice is yours: 14 years \u2013 which means approved tracksuits, you can drown your designer Miuccia Prada\u2019s but it\u2019s the Japanese fine tailoring under a internet-breaking label\u2019s suit suits \u2013 decked sombre grey topcoat like cropped button-downs out in eccentric prints everyone else, or you can are finally available in with mile-wide lapels swathe yourself in blazing your size (\u00a3720). and flowy trousers \u2013 pink cashmere courtesy that now deserve your of Valentino (\u00a32,450). COOL-GUY full and undivided COLLAR attention (blazer, \u00a3695, The best way to pair and trousers, \u00a3440). a camp shirt \u2013 like, say, Bode\u2019s delicately embroidered silk version \u2013 with a suit jacket? Collar out, \u201970s style (\u00a3435). SLICK SHADES VALENTINO, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: COURTESY OF BRANDS. PROP STYLIST, SHARON RYAN AT HALLEY RESOURCES. As Jack Nicholson has proved for the better part of a century, the right sunglasses can dial your suit up from perfectly respectable to unimpeachably cool. These rimless gold-arm frames from Chrome Hearts are, without question, the right sunglasses (\u00a31,575). BOXY SHOES Square-toe footwear has long been written off in menswear circles as clunky and unsightly, but Milanese shoemaker Mars\u00e8ll\u2019s chic take is proof it\u2019s time for a critical reevaluation (\u00a3665). SHARP SHORTS TONED-DOWN TIE DOUBLE-TAKE Dress shorts are a This tonal herringbone TROUSERS power move \u2013 especially Herm\u00e8s tie, The navy-blue tones when they\u2019re as good embroidered with an and flattering straight- as these deep-pleated, artful nod to the Parisian leg cut make these Mans houndstooth-check, long stalwart\u2019s equestrian trousers as versatile and loose stunners from roots, is a touch more as can be; the subtle Fendi Men\u2019s (\u00a3680). understated \u2013 but sheen and wood-grain no less arresting \u2013 than weave, meanwhile, the house\u2019s famed bright ensure they\u2019ll turn plenty silk neckwear (\u00a3280). of heads (\u00a3220). BRILLIANT AIRBRUSHED BOUTONNIERE BLAZER Beautifully appointed A nod to Alexander in yellow gold and onyx McQueen\u2019s legendary \u2013 and splashed with a spring-summer 1999 sextet of diamonds for runway collection, this good measure \u2013 Van spray-paint-blasted Cleef & Arpels\u2019 iconic double-breasted Rose de No\u00ebl brooch is sports coat reads more a surefire way to level downtown art opening up your lapels (\u00a314,800). than Midtown power lunch (\u00a32,990). 48 GQ OCTOBER 2022 ALEX HODOR-LEE","WATERSHED BUNCHED-UP COLOUR- WATCH BLAZER BLOCKED COAT To mark the Royal Oak\u2019s Most tailoring seeks Nigo\u2019sPop artsensibilities 50th anniversary, to sidestep fabric come through loud and Audemars Piguet scrunches and wrinkles clear on this woolly slimmed down its at every turn. For Dior Kenzo suit jacket, which landmark octagonal Men designer Kim Jones, balances a thick slice of timepiece ever so slightly, though, the scrunching is pastel pink atop a mossy added a brand-new all part of the fun \u2013 hence green base (\u00a3870). self-winding movement, the artful, surprisingly and then dressed it up elegant tie closure on this HIRSUTE SLIP-ONS with stainless steel icy-blue suit (\u00a32,350). Some loafers mean and 18-carat pink gold business. And some, (\u00a325,000). like these furred-out Santoni pennies, HIGHFALUTIN are just here for a good HANKIES time (\u00a31,260). Brunello Cucinelli\u2019s unbeatable pocket OLD-SCHOOL squares pair the patterns KNOTS and palette of your As Ralph Lauren favourite bandana with the has proved over and luxe silk and hand-rolled over again for decades, edges of your grandpa\u2019s sometimes the coolest hankie (\u00a3170 each). thing you can do is lean into the classics \u2013 these STAGE-READY CRISP CLOAK foulard twill ties are as SUIT Lapels? Where we\u2019re classic as it gets (\u00a395 Alessandro Michele\u2019s going, we don\u2019t each, Polo Ralph Lauren). Gucci has established need lapels. Let itself as the gold standard Dolce & Gabbana\u2019s for rock star tailoring, exceptionally sleek with everyone from dinner jacket show you Iggy Pop to Harry Styles the way (\u00a31,800). donning the house\u2019s raucous suits onstage. This modish pea-green assemblage, with its high-neck cut and offbeat four-button closure, is plucked straight out of Swinging London\u2019s trippy late-\u201960s heyday (jacket, \u00a32,350, shirt, \u00a3500, trousers, \u00a3900, and tie, \u00a3400). KENZO: COURTESY OF BRAND. FLOWERY SOCKS FORMAL CHAIN PECULIAR PANTS Tabio\u2019s discreet floral Not a tie guy? Take Nobody makes the fusty hosiery packs an outsized a heavy gold chain \u2013 and traditional feel punch without ever the A-list\u2019s red-carpet playful and new quite veering toward novelty- neckwear of choice \u2013 out like Thom Browne. statement-sock territory for a spin instead. David Case in point: these (price upon request). Yurman\u2019s is finished enormously cuffed with an onyx scarab, the trousers, made from a trio ancient Egyptian symbol of clashing heavyweight of rebirth (\u00a322,600). tweeds (\u00a32,830). OCTOBER 2022 GQ 49","GQ World JAZZY TIE CLASSY CUFFLINKS Drops Wide, skinny or patterned, Burberry\u2019s palladium-plated ties are back, and this TB cufflinks make for an wavy Missoni piece will extremely smart investment. add some serious Golden We\u2019re cuffed (\u00a3290). Age zhuzh to your office rotation (\u00a385). DATE NIGHT JUMPSUIT GET NAILED Trust Vivienne At-home manis are raging Westwood, the on TikTok, and Aspinal provocative British of London\u2019s nifty designer with a penchant grooming kit is packed for sexy garb, to drop with all you need to keep a slinky, silky jumpsuit your fingernails (and destined for a big night toes) pristine (\u00a395). out (\u00a31,130). SAVILE ROW WILD THE ETERNAL WORK SHIRT SCENT WAISTCOAST The go-to watch for Numbered are the days of Inspired by the inner From the brilliant mind Reg\u00e9-Jean Page and Pierce a simple white workday workings of Savile of SS Daley comes this Brosnan, Cartier\u2019s show- shirt. Instead, it\u2019s all Row\u2019s Norton & Sons, standout leather vest. stopping Santos de Cartier about bolder statements, Penhaligon\u2019s Sartorial Breathe new life into is a timeless piece that will like this one from Budd. EDT has notes of sweet a three-piece suit or just give any fit some old-money It\u2019ll make you the talk of lavender and masculine rock it on its own (\u00a3550). glamour (\u00a39,600). the office for all the right patchouli that are reasons (\u00a3225). begging to be paired with your favourite suit (\u00a3152). ALL-DAY LOAFERS These Geox leather slip-ons come with an ultra-breathable sole, meaning you can wear them from the office, to dinner and back to work again. Breezy (\u00a3110). SEXED-UP SPECS Tom Ford is best known for his approach to sexy suiting, but isn\u2019t afraid to apply his signature bravado to these tortoiseshell frames (\u00a3280). PERFECT POCKET CROSSBODY Parisian brand Lanvin\u2019s SLING polka-dot pochette is the Cut from heavy-duty French flex your suit jacket supple leather, is calling out for (\u00a365). Montblanc\u2019s industrialised carry-all is making a clear case to be your new daily (\u00a3875). PHOTOGRAPHS BY MITCH PAYNE STYLED BY ANGELO MITAKOS AND ITUNU OKE 50 GQ OCTOBER 2022","","Autumn \/ Winter 2022 Explore MIKE boots at vagabond.com","WINTER GQ World WRAPPER Drops Just when you thought you had KILLER DB your outerwear down, Luke and Lucie Meier, the mastermind duo Tiger of Sweden\u2019s louche and loose wool behind Jil Sander, drop a drool- DB nails the relaxed tailoring mood sweeping worthy winter throw-on (\u00a31,895). the menswear universe (\u00a3848). WAIST CINCHER Is it us, or is there something of the handcuff in this new belt from Salvatore Ferragamo? Either way, the Italian luxury house is a safe word, style wise (\u00a3360).","GQ World COOL MULES Drops Wildly freeing, ankle-airing and easy to slip into, GH Bass\u2019s mule loafers are as chic as they are cushy (\u00a3170). DAYTIME PYJAMAS Outdoorsy PJs are trending and we\u2019re waking up to it. This Daniel w. Fletcher silk button-up looks fresh at all hours (\u00a3320). DOPAMINE DOSE Double down on Barbie-core with this punchy pink suit from Alexandre Mattiussi\u2019s AMI (price upon request). 54 GQ OCTOBER 2022","www.altea.com @alteamilano","","","Globally, 25% of the purchase price from the sale of each item in the Pink Pony collection is directed to an international network of cancer charities; within the UK, proceeds benefit The Royal Marsden Cancer Charity (Registered Charity No. 1095197).","The Wildness of GQ World Barry Keoghan Culture He\u2019s the character actor beloved by arthouse directors, whose brooding intensity has landed him coveted roles in cinema\u2019s biggest franchises.But to really know Barry Keoghan \u2013 the year\u2019s most compelling breakoutstar \u2013 you need to go off grid. B y D O U G L AS G REENWO O D PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRENDAN FREEMAN STYLED BY ANGELO MITAKOS","GQ World Culture ARRY KEOGHAN HAS opening page Zhao, who directed Keoghan in care of Keoghan\u2019s \u201cnanny\u201d \u2013 his moth- Eternals, calls Keoghan a \u201cwild wolf. er\u2019s mother \u2013 by the time he turned 10. B a Czech Shepherd dog Suit, \u00a32,450, After a while, especially for the sea- It was there, much to the bewilder- named Koda. He\u2019s obedi- by Canali. soned and celebrated filmmakers, ment of his nanny, that he started to ent and beautiful, and so Belt, \u00a3290, by there is a desire and thirst to return watch the work of 20th-century icons: big that when he runs up Alexander to the wilderness, to a time when they Marlon Brando, James Dean, Paul to me and jumps up on his hind legs, McQueen. Vest, were more rebellious and carefree,\u201d Newman. \u201cI was expressing,\u201d he says. his paws touch my chest. \u201cYou\u2019re not stylist\u2019s own. Zhao says. \u201cHe can\u2019t be tamed and you \u201cDoing impressions, putting on accents scared of dogs, are you?\u201d Keoghan says, Necklace, \u00a3295, wouldn\u2019t want to, because he will be for prank calls, going to the shops and by way of greeting. The dog has spent by 886 The a constant reminder of the wilderness.\u201d becoming different characters each much of his young life in obedience Royal Mint. time,\u201d he says. Still, the environment school. \u201cIn any unfortunate event, he Watch, \u00a324,400, In a literal sense, the wilderness is didn\u2019t exactly foster ambitions like his. knows how to bite,\u201d Keoghan says. by Cartier. where I find him on a late July Sunday The local lads were more interested in Keoghan (his surname, which often afternoon in an English village so iso- boxing than the arts. \u201cTo say you wanna incites confusion, is pronounced how opposite page lated that reaching it by public trans- be an actor in that environment, you\u2019re it\u2019s spelled: ke-yow-gen) loves animals. port is practically impossible. Keoghan not looked down upon but it\u2019s like, Get As a teenager, he\u2019d sit down in front Jacket, \u00a33,400, is living in an 18th-century watermill with the script. It\u2019s not gonna happen.\u201d of the television at his grandmother\u2019s jeans, \u00a32,820, here while filming Saltburn, the new But he had an ambitious mindset, cata- house and watch nature documenta- by Louis film from Promising Young Woman lysed by the death of his mother. \u201cWhat ries, fascinated, he says, by \u201chow ani- Vuitton. Shoes, director Emerald Fennell. Cows graze more can I lose?\u201d he told himself. \u201cThe mals can say so much without saying \u00a3155, by Ugg. along the mill\u2019s perimeter; pension- only way is forward.\u201d anything.\u201d He claims to have learned Necklace, ers on pushbikes in summer garb everything he knows about acting from \u00a36,850, by pedal past the front gate. The acre of It was an open casting call in studying them; even now, each charac- Cartier. land around it is colonised by insects a shop window that changed things ter he plays is based on a specific one. and birds, creaking and cooing. They for Keoghan, aged 16. \u201cI slyly took the He once attended a wolf rescue centre skate across the surface of a near-still number so no one would see me and in LA, where animals and humans river that cuts through the landscape called it up when I got home,\u201d Keoghan bond in a kind of mutual therapy ses- like a ribbon. says. \u201cThey said they were waiting for sion. It\u2019s there he met a wolf named funding, but I didn\u2019t know what that Koda, which is where he got the name. Keoghan has craved this kind of meant. All I saw was, Time off school, \u201cThere\u2019s so much of the wolf I feel con- quiet, familial, provincial life. It\u2019s get paid. Fuck, I\u2019m gonna go to that.\u201d nected to, being in the pack, and being a welcome change for him, having a lone wolf as well,\u201d he says. The ety- spent much of his adolescence \u201cin and The movie, a 2011 crime drama mology of Keoghan is embedded in out of school, [making] trouble\u201d before called Between the Canals, took three Celtic legend, derived from the ancient being kicked out at 16. Keoghan was years to get off the ground, and was Gaelic word \u201ccano\u201d. It means wolf cub. raised in Summerhill, a densely packed Keoghan\u2019s first film role. Its direc- \u201cMy spirit animal,\u201d he says. and deprived area on the north side of tor, Mark O\u2019Connor, says Keoghan There\u2019s something wolf-like about Dublin\u2019s inner city. Keoghan\u2019s mother, called him \u201cevery few weeks until Keoghan, who stands at 5ft 8in who had battled with heroin addiction, I eventually cast him\u201d. That film led tall with a lean, muscular frame like died when he was 12. \u201cIt wasn\u2019t a \u2018sud- to small parts in Irish dramas and a cage fighter. He boxes to stay in shape den death\u2019 kind of shock,\u201d he recalls. independent films, until he landed and as a form of therapy, which com- She was in and out of hospital; they a part in Christopher Nolan\u2019s 2017 film bined with his unnervingly curving knew what was coming. Dunkirk, in which he has a minor turn smile and frosty gaze, can make him as a boathand determined to be a war seem more intimidating than he really His father had been absent for years, hero. For Keoghan, Dunkirk felt like is. That menacing quality doesn\u2019t and so when Keoghan\u2019s mother died, being a kid at an airshow. Tom Hardy, manifest in real life \u2013 he\u2019s friendly and both he and his older brother went into Mark Rylance and Cillian Murphy welcoming \u2013 but is something that foster care. They moved between 13 were his co-stars. Nolan still remem- Keoghan channels into the roles he\u2019s different homes throughout his child- bers Keoghan\u2019s audition: \u201c[He] had typically enlisted to play: menaces, hood, before winding up back in the villains and tortured souls. This pri- mal, unorthodox energy has earned \u201cTo say you wanna be an Keoghan parts working with some actor in that environment, of cinema\u2019s most respected direc- you\u2019re not looked down tors: Christopher Nolan, Chlo\u00e9 Zhao, upon but it\u2019s like, Martin McDonagh. Get with the script. As Yorgos Lanthimos, who directed It\u2019s not gonna happen.\u201d Keoghan in 2017\u2019s The Killing of a Sacred Deer, says, he\u2019s \u201cthe sweetest man, but can seem sinister and danger- ous in a split second.\u201d 60 GQ OCTOBER 2022","GQ World Culture OCTOBER 2022 GQ 61","GQ World Culture innocence, but with stunning sophisti- this page through England\u2019s Southeast. But it\u2019s him back down to Earth. Sandro cated truth and maturity.\u201d Nolan calls almost perfectly still here: water lilies often conjures this noise from him. him \u201ca dazzling talent\u201d. Jumper, \u00a31,400, and reeds run down either edge, and He showed her photos from the set of shirt, \u00a32,800, cygnets mill about the water, watched his superhero ventures, selfies with It\u2019s hard to pinpoint the role that tracksuit over by a heron. Angelina Jolie, to convince her he changed the course of Keoghan\u2019s career bottoms, wasn\u2019t lying. But also, you can imagine, because there are several, and they \u00a31,150, shoes, Soon the fishing boat, fit for two to assure himself that what he\u2019d experi- have a habit of arriving in staggered \u00a3840, by Dior. but precariously carrying four (or enced there was real. pairs. Was it Dunkirk? Or was it The Socks, \u00a320, by technically five: Keoghan, Art, Alyson, Killing of a Sacred Deer, the Lanthimos Falke. her unborn child and I) is ploughing Eternals was a lesson in a scale of movie in which he plays a boy who Necklace, through the water, carrying us like filmmaking Keoghan hadn\u2019t encoun- manipulates his way into a family\u2019s \u00a3650, by Bleue sightseers in a foreign land. Keoghan tered before, but one he\u2019d always idyllic domestic set-up and wreaks Burnham. and I take the back, Art rows in the craved. In 2013, while shooting the havoc upon it? The former made bank middle, while Sandro lounges like popular Irish TV series Love\/Hate, at the box office, sure, but it was the lat- following page a gestating figurehead in her red dress he had tweeted at Stan Lee: \u201cPlease ter that made him an arthouse darling, at the front. Make me a SuperHero :).\u201d In August name-checked by critics, The Weeknd Jumper, \u00a3448, 2019, he finally got his wish, joining and Timoth\u00e9e Chalamet as an actor by Stefan Keoghan met Sandro in February the cast of Eternals, a galaxy-spanning they admire. Cooke. last year in a pub in London, and sidled Marvel superhero film about a legion Trousers, \u00a3860, up to her on the charm offensive. He of aliens responsible for protecting Keoghan is halfway through wax- by Gucci. told her he was an actor. \u201cShe didn\u2019t planets from deadly creatures called ing lyrical about his current proj- care,\u201d he says. Deviants. Keoghan plays Druig, an ect, Fennell\u2019s Saltburn \u2013 a film about Eternal with the power to influence English aristocracy and an \u201cobsessive\u201d Sandro concurs: \u201cHe was saying men\u2019s minds. He was among the last to Scouser, played by him in his first lead he plays a superhero in a film. I went, be cast, two months after filming had role \u2013 when his girlfriend, a Scottish \u2018Who, Spider-Man?\u2019\u201d already begun. \u201cThey wanted someone orthodontist named Alyson Sandro, steps into the blaring sunlight of Keoghan lets out a laugh, soft and the garden. She\u2019s radiant, effusively breathy, like a helium exhale bringing nice and nine months pregnant with Keoghan\u2019s first child. Sandro saunters off to the far end of the garden, past a koi pond and a conservatory tacked on to the house. Koda follows suit. There\u2019s a silence as Keoghan watches her, in awe. Then he turns back and picks up the conversation again, in slight disbelief: \u201cSo yeah, I\u2019m having a baby boy now.\u201d B E F O R E I \u2019 D A R R I V E D , Keoghan and I had exchanged messages, figuring out how and where we could spend our time together. Searches on both ends had proven fruitless; the near- est shop to the house was a 30-minute walk away. \u201cWas thinking of chilling in the garden with Koda,\u201d he\u2019d writ- ten, before adding nonchalantly: \u201cAlso have a boat.\u201d \u201cRight, let\u2019s do it!\u201d Keoghan says now, grinning. \u201cLet\u2019s get in the boat!\u201d The boat is a white, slightly dilap- idated fishing vessel, like something from a Nicholas Sparks novel, moored on the river by the house. Sandro\u2019s friend from London, Art \u2013 a Polish orthodontist who is in town for the weekend \u2013 has past experience as a skipper and agrees to commandeer the ship. The river stretches for hun- dreds of miles in each direction, slicing 62 GQ OCTOBER 2022","ALGONQUIN russellandbromley.co.uk","gq.co.uk Fashion, culture, and the great stylish beyond. In other words: the best of GQ, in one place. READ WELL. READ GQ.CO.UK.","GQ World Culture older,\u201d Keoghan remembers, but the Keoghan\u2019s Joker is a man made to screen. \u201cThere were seven and I was film\u2019s director, Chlo\u00e9 Zhao, chose him from his own experiences, both \u201ca bit number four,\u201d he says, grinning. \u201cLads, instead. \u201cHe searched and wandered at charming and a bit hurt\u201d. Beneath with four minutes of screen time, not first,\u201d Zhao recalls, \u201cbut when he found heavy prosthetics that make him look bad eh!?\u201d Druig in him, the character burst into like a maniac run through a meat life in an instant.\u201d grinder, Keoghan insisted his blue eyes Keoghan has not yet been invited stayed the same. \u201cI wanted some sort of back for a sequel but the character, Zhao\u2019s film \u2013 shot with the striking human in there behind the makeup,\u201d kept under wraps and revealed only intimacy of her Oscar-winning work, he says. \u201cI want people to relate to when audiences finally saw it in the- but more cerebral and of a slower pace him\u2026 [to know] this is a fa\u00e7ade he atres, feels like the set-up of something than genre fans were used to \u2013 fell flat puts on.\u201d The character is, to Keoghan, bigger. \u201cAs soon as that call comes,\u201d he among some fans, who prefer super- \u201ca broken-down boy\u201d. insists, \u201cI\u2019m there man, I\u2019m there.\u201d In hero fare to be a bombastic spectacle. the meantime, he\u2019s hellbent on secur- The reviews, paired with a lukewarm Keoghan only appears in The ing a part in Taika Waititi\u2019s Star Wars domestic box office performance, Batman\u2019s final moments, guarded movie. \u201cI\u2019m tryna meet him,\u201d he quips, has thrown the film\u2019s franchise fate by corrugated bars of a jail cell. But \u201cI\u2019ve been askin\u2019 everyone.\u201d into question. Keoghan wants to play a deleted scene featuring Keoghan Druig again, but the day before we released online has been viewed more A shuffle from Sandro up front meet, Marvel teased its forthcoming than 10 million times. sends the boat off balance. \u201cWait, wait, slate at San Diego Comic-Con. \u201c[They] Alyson, there\u2019s two of you up there!\u201d didn\u2019t really mention Eternals 2, so\u2026\u201d Recently, Keoghan texted Reeves Keoghan shouts. \u201cNo sudden move- Keoghan scratches his head and looks a listicle that rated the best Jokers put ments!\u201d He tries to take over to guide downriver. He seems bruised by it. \u201cWith women directors, you Thankfully, Keoghan has a sec- allow yourself to be vulnerable ond shot at a superhero franchise. In and there\u2019s more access to the the summer of 2020, he joined the character. There\u2019s a maternal cast of Matt Reeves\u2019 darker neo-noir thing going on there.\u201d take on The Batman. \u201cI wanted to be Riddler,\u201d Keoghan says. A clip of Keoghan\u2019s audition for The Batman has existed publicly on the internet for three years, but barely anyone has seen it. In the clip, an elevator opens to Saint-Sa\u00ebns\u2019 \u201cDanse Macabre\u201d and out steps Keoghan dressed in a black shirt and shoes, trousers held up by green suspenders. His Riddler wears a bowler hat, carries a cane and wears dark Alex DeLarge eyeliner. He slowly struts down the corridor, eyeballing doors like prey lies behind each one, before turning a corner and re-emerging, grinning, a bloody hand- print struck across his cheek, when the clip cuts to black. Keoghan\u2019s unsolicited audition \u2013 created simply because he heard the film was happening and he wanted to be a part of it \u2013 initially proved fruit- less. When he met the film\u2019s producer, Dylan Clark, the role of Riddler had been filled, at that point by Jonah Hill and later by Paul Dano. He asked Clark to watch it anyway. For four months, he heard nothing. Then a call came in from his agent while he was having dinner with a friend in New York. They\u2019d seen the tape, his agent said. \u201cThe Batman wants you to play the Joker \u2013 but you cannot tell anyone.\u201d OCTOBER 2022 GQ 65","GQ World CRuulbturirce \u201cYou go to the pub and drink grief down. But that only gets you so far, honest to god, because you have to go home and sit with yourself. It\u2019s us that ruins us.\u201d 66 GQ OCTOBER 2022","us back to the house, but his roots as a city boy show, the oars jutting and slipping out of place. He has a 30-name-long list of directors he\u2019d like to work with. The names he summons in the moment \u2013 Andrea Arnold, Lynne Ramsay, C\u00e9line Sciamma\u2013 are all women. \u201cWith a man directing, I can get a bit guarded,\u201d he says. \u201c[But with women] you allow yourself to be a lot more open and vul- nerable, and with being a bit more vul- nerable there\u2019s a bit more access to you and to the character.\u201d He thinks about it for a second. \u201cThere\u2019s a maternal thing going on there.\u201d Y O U C A N T R A C E back much of opposite page about male sadness, friendship and I\u2019d hear Colin Farrell go, \u2018Did you eat Keoghan\u2019s ambition and skill to the the legacies we leave behind, out this my Crunchy Nut last night?\u2019\u201d he says, loss of his mother. She was 6ft tall Waistcoat, autumn. \u201cBarry\u2019s one of the best actors laughing. \u201cAnd one feckin\u2019 shop man! and had dark hair like his. When she \u00a3350, trousers, of his generation in the world today, let I don\u2019t know how I coped. It was beau- died and Keoghan was cared for by his \u00a3500, by alone in Ireland, and it\u2019s always a better tiful and that, but I knew every feckin\u2019 nanny, aunt and sister, women were his Armani. Shoes, move to cast the best rather than cast cow and donkey, it was so barren.\u201d saviours. \u201cI\u2019m not gonna sit here and stylist\u2019s own. to type,\u201d McDonagh tells me. say I\u2019m very independent,\u201d he admits. His relationship with Farrell, who \u201cI rely on Alyson to do a lot for me, you this page The film was shot on the island he\u2019s shared screentime with twice now, know, but you build this thing in you of Inishmore last summer. The cast has blossomed into something more without your mother or your father\u2026\u201d Top, \u00a3260, by includes Colin Farrell and Brendan significant. Farrell, as well as Joel A toughness, he calls it. \u201cYou have to Bianca Gleeson. Keoghan plays Dominic, Edgerton, whom he starred with in figure it out yourself.\u201d Saunders. a simple-seeming lad who also acts The Green Knight, are now giving him as the conscience of Farrell\u2019s con- guidance on what it takes to be a dad. Growing up in Ireland, getting help following page fused character. Keoghan thinks he\u2019s \u201cThere are so many people out there with your grief was \u201ca sign of weak- \u201cthe cleverest person on the island.\u201d who\u2019ve given me advice,\u201d Keoghan says. ness\u201d. He and his brother were offered Shirt, \u00a3355, by Keoghan and Farrell shared a house He spends downtime with Timoth\u00e9e therapy but turned it down. \u201cYou go to Etro. Shorts, during filming. It was a surreal expe- \u201cTimmy\u201d Chalamet, and considers the pub and you drink it down,\u201d he says, \u00a360, by Emma rience for Keoghan, who wasn\u2019t used Dwayne Johnson \u2013 who he had looked \u201cbut that only gets you so far, honest Willis. Shoes, to such an isolated setting, nor living up to when he was young \u2013 a friend. to god, because you have to go home \u00a3225, by with a man who was once an acting Recently, \u201cI reached out to him [about] and sit with yourself then. It\u2019s still with Russell & idol. \u201cTell you what, I never thought a part I was having trouble trying to us. It\u2019s us that ruins us.\u201d So he prayed Bromley. Socks, in his own way, formed his own view \u00a344, by of faith. When he grew up and moved Pantherella. to London, he began that undoing, starting therapy. \u201cOffloading and get- ting some closure on some things that may creep up on you as you get older is important,\u201d he says. \u201cWe can\u2019t figure all this out ourselves. We don\u2019t have that person there to answer the questions because they\u2019re not with us anymore.\u201d Back at the house, the midday heat has dulled somewhat, but still Keoghan sits shirtless in the fading sun, Koda by his side. Where before he seemed dom- ineering, like a fighter, as he opens up, he seems vulnerable and boyish. Director and playwright Martin McDonagh saw that softness and naivety when casting Keoghan for his new film, The Banshees of Inisherin, a parable-like period piece, aptly, OCTOBER 2022 GQ 67","GQ World GROOMING BY LIZ TAW. Culture find,\u201d Keoghan recalls. \u201cHe sent me a 10-minute voice note. I could hear pages flicking. He\u2019d written it all down.\u201d The conversations that matter most to Keoghan are the ones that remind him of the friendships he formed before he was an actor. He has an uneasy relationship with fame, or as he calls it, a \u201cworld built on artificial things and fake promises and bullshit\u201d. \u201cYou hate the parties,\u201d Sandro says. \u201cI\u2019m not a big fan, yeah,\u201d he says. Keoghan didn\u2019t show up to the Eternals premiere at all. He thought that was cool, and fitting of the character. \u201cI\u2019m trying to find that balance of putting the phone away. I\u2019ve seen The Rock do it. You\u2019ve got to separate that. You\u2019ve got work mode and family time.\u201d Any day now, Keoghan\u2019s focus will shift from the shooting of Saltburn to the birth of his son. He\u2019ll have one day off for the baby\u2019s caesarean birth, so Alyson will have to fare without him when he goes back to set. She\u2019s not wor- ried: \u201cBarry\u2019s lucky that I\u2019m a Scottish, independent woman.\u201d Two weeks later, Keoghan sends me a picture of him cradling a dark-haired newborn in hospital. They called the boy Brando (as in Marlon). I ask him how it feels. \u201cIt\u2019s indescribable,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s a love I\u2019ve not felt before.\u201d It\u2019s a rebuilding of sorts: a loving, present partner; a child of his own, and a faithful dog to keep them safe. A way of reforming a life he once lost in a new and more perfect image. The lone wolf finding his pack. \u201cYou can learn from how you were raised,\u201d says Keoghan. Now, he says, \u201cI have the chance to do the things that weren\u2019t done for me.\u201d Once filming here is done, their plan is to move north to Scotland \u2013 some- where on the country\u2019s beach-lined and blowy east coast \u2013 to be closer to Sandro\u2019s family. Koda, of course, will come too. Whenever Keoghan moves, which is often, a stuffed dalmatian toy that belonged to his mother comes with him. It currently sits in his bed- room here in the mill, a reminder of her presence. \u201cWhen I\u2019m happiest, I feel like she\u2019s with us,\u201d he says. \u201cWherever that teddy is, or wherever Alyson or my boy is\u2026 That\u2019s home for me now.\u201d douglas greenwood is a writer and editor based in London. 68 GQ OCTOBER 2022","RENAULT ARKANA E-TECH HYBRID hybrid by nature 5 year warranty1 the official combined fuel consumption figures in mpg (l\/100km) for the Arkana e-tech 145 hybrid R.S. line are: 58.9 (4.8) and CO2 emissions are 109 g\/km. wltp figures shown are for comparability purposes. actual real world driving results may vary depending on factors including the starting charge of the battery, accessories fitted after registration, weather conditions, driving styles and vehicle load. 1first of 100,000 miles or 5 years. for conditions visit renault.co.uk\/warranty. uk spec may vary. Renault recommends renault.co.uk","JAMIE WINDUST Author, host and LGBTQIA+ trailblazer. BASMA KHALIFA Filmmaker, director and writer. GABRIELLA WILDE Mother, model, actress and activist. VAS J MORGAN Writer, editor, founder and activist. JEANNIE JAY PARK Model, activist and community organiser.","JOIN OUR CONVERSATION clarks.co.uk","GQ World From top: Richard COURTESY OF BRANDS. Mille\u2019s RM UP-01; Watches Bulgari\u2019s Octo Survival Finissimo Ultra; of the Piaget\u2019s Altiplano Slimmest Ultimate Concept. The current mania for It, too, saved space with the caseback ultra-slim watches doubling as a baseplate while, inter- is driving a race among estingly, displaying hours, minutes, watchmakers to and seconds on separate dials \u2013 the capture the title of logic being that more wheels made world\u2019s thinnest. for fewer overlaps, ergo less height. For winding and setting, instead By NICK FOULKES of a crown there are two toothed wheels mounted on the caseback. It\u2019s ATCHMAKERS LOVE A entirely in keeping with the aesthetic of the Octo Finissimo, one of the few W good arms race. The genuinely iconic watch designs of the first and perhaps most 21st century. With this record, the enduring one was to Italian jeweller added to its reputation equip a timepiece with in high watchmaking. the maximum number of functions, or complications \u2013 a distinction currently Bulgari\u2019s stint at the top ended in held by Vacheron Constantin\u2019s break- about three months. In July, Richard through Reference 57260, released in Mille and Ferrari joined forces to 2015, which has 57 of them. Then, of unveil an even thinner watch. The RM course, there\u2019s the matter of depth. UP-01 is just 1.75 mm, looks like a credit Among diving watches, Omega trumps card, and is an amazing feat. But statis- all with its 6,000m Seamaster Planet tics alone do not tell the full story of the Ocean Ultra Deep, as covered in this RM UP-01. column earlier this year. Now attention has shifted to thin- It is a conceptually radical watch. ness. The title of world\u2019s thinnest The components are unstacked and mechanical watch has been held by arranged in a planar fashion across Piaget\u2019s Altiplano Ultimate Concept. a large surface area, and the hands, The entire watch is just 2 mm thick, normally discrete components, are achieved with a mixture of new tech- applied directly onto the wheels. niques and micron-level-precision Incredibly, and unlike Piaget\u2019s and component manufacturing, most Bulgari\u2019s thin creations, Richard Mille notably doing away with a baseplate respects the traditional concept of and building the movement straight a movement with a baseplate housed on the caseback. within a case. But tiny measurements can create huge problems. Presented in 2018, the Given the Ferrari partnership \u2013 Altiplano went only into production \u201cmost visibly expressed in the choice of in 2020 (with no more than 10 pieces materials and execution of the watch,\u201d being made a year) and required according to the brand \u2013 it\u2019s helpful to extreme feats of engineering, includ- think of the RM UP-01 as comparable ing adjustments to allow for minute to a Formula 1 car. Just as those vehi- distortions created by the pressure in cles bear only a partial resemblance an aircraft cabin so that the crystal to a standard road car, the RM UP-01 would not come into contact with the looks unusual for a watch. The design hands and interrupt the functioning of is a departure from the familiar high- the movement. tech tonneau with which the brand is Then in late March of this year, associated, but there are some familiar Bulgari\u2019s 1.8 mm Octo Finissimo Ultra Mille touches, like the spline screws nabbed the world\u2019s thinnest title. studding the bezel. 72 GQ OCTOBER 2022 The RM UP-01 is extreme watch- making at its most daring, challenging the accepted notion of what a watch looks like and pushing the technology and ingenuity required to create it. But record-breaking doesn\u2019t come cheap. At around \u00a31.6 million, you are paying approximately \u00a3800 per micron.","Subscribe to British GQ on YouTube for video drops worthy of your feed. Search for British GQ","dunelondon.com @dune_london #startwiththeshoes","Art of Sou GQ World Culture Devon Turnbull\u2019s custom-built speakers The can be heard in Supreme stores, at New nd York\u2019s hottest new hotel, and in Mark Ronson\u2019s house. But Turnbull\u2019s not chasing clout or decibels with his hi-fi audio gear \u2013 he\u2019s offering an entirely different approach to the listening experience. By NOAH JOHNSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY ISA SAALABI OCTOBER 2022 GQ 75","GQ World Culture N E D A Y I N March 2020, At Turnbull\u2019s open was often your living room. most rarefied audio equipment in the installation at \u201cI had no idea that it would reso- world, it\u2019s his eye as much as his ear O just as New York City was New York\u2019s Lisson that sets him apart, a duality that per- sliding into lockdown, Gallery, visitors nate the way it did,\u201d Turnbull says. haps made him especially appealing to Devon Turnbull got a shared the \u201cIt\u2019s the first thing I ever posted on my a polymath like Abloh. cryptic text message from experience of Instagram that was viral. It was the only his friend Virgil Abloh. \u201cI didn\u2019t even intentional time I\u2019d ever had hundreds of comments That versatility was immediately get it at first,\u201d Turnbull tells me over listening. on a post. And then it was just off to the apparent to Turnbull\u2019s Nom de Guerre lunch this summer. \u201cHe\u2019s like, \u2018Your races.\u201d Abloh offered to make Canary cofounder, Isa Saalabi, who recalls vis- time is now. You\u2019re about to blow up.\u2019 Yellow, his multiuse e-commerce site, the iting Turnbull one day in 2007 when I was just like, Really? \u201d commercial home for the Ojas Artbook Turnbull told him in lucid detail about For Turnbull, 43, who had been and DIY speaker kits, and the next gen- the home-audio system he had just working for several years in rela- eration of Ojas converts was born. Since built, his first of its kind. \u201cIt was a very tive obscurity building high-fidelity then, Turnbull\u2019s client list has grown to clear conversation,\u201d recalls Saalabi, home-audio equipment under the include the new Nine Orchard hotel on who photographed Turnbull for creative pseudonym Ojas, the impe- Canal Street and celebrity music pro- this story. \u201cHe talked about a vision tus for Abloh\u2019s prophecy remains a ducers like Mark Ronson. The fashion for a sound system with this brutal- mystery. \u201cI don\u2019t know if that was just retailer Ssense started selling his speak- ist design, and he specifically said, based purely on his insane level of ers. This summer, an Ojas sound system \u2018I see it as a sculpture in a Chelsea gallery.\u2019 foresight and his ability as a visionary,\u201d was installed as an actual work of art in The vision was there from the beginning. says Turnbull. After all, Abloh reimag- a downtown New York gallery. And that\u2019s what makes the whole thing ined the future of streetwear with his so special and beautiful. This wasn\u2019t brand Off-White and reinvented Louis What makes this success all the more something that happened overnight.\u201d Vuitton as the brand\u2019s men\u2019s artistic remarkable is that it\u2019s Turnbull\u2019s second director, but Turnbull couldn\u2019t be sure. act. Almost two decades earlier, in 2003, W H A T D E V O N T U R N B U L L does with \u201cIt could have just as easily been that he he cofounded the menswear label Nom sound is so specific, so rare and far-out, was on some fucking LVMH company de Guerre. The brand\u2019s Bleecker Street that even within the world of high-end trend-forecaster marketing thing and shop closed in 2010, but it remains home audio he\u2019s an outlier in his devo- people were like, \u2018Home audio is about influential among certain fashion cults. tion to utter sonic purity. \u201cIt\u2019s coun- to become huge.\u2019 \u201d Either way, Abloh\u2019s Turnbull might now be thriving in a tercultural,\u201d he says of his role in the message was clear: Your moment is totally different kind of career, but his audiophile community. \u201cI partake in about to come. It\u2019s about to happen. sensibilities \u2013 minimalism, utilitarian- a global underground culture within At the time Abloh texted him, plenty ism, an obsession with quality \u2013 remain audio that prescribes a certain formula was already happening for Turnbull, the same. And as he makes some of the who had fashioned an intriguing niche as the maker of custom audio systems for some of New York\u2019s most influential creatives. Ojas had gone from an alias to an actual company, and its distinctively brutalist and often exceptionally large home-audio systems regularly sold for five figures. Turnbull\u2019s speakers were installed in Supreme stores around the world, and he had designed an audiophile-grade system for the buzzy Brooklyn club Public Records, known for having the best sound in the city. Meanwhile, Abloh himself had asked Turnbull to create custom speakers for his travelling \u201cFigures of Speech\u201d exhi- bition, which debuted at the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago in 2019. By April 2020, Ojas had also released its first Artbook Shelf Speaker, a smaller version of his more extravagantly priced custom units that now sell for $6,000 (\u00a35,150). And Turnbull was developing a DIY model with all the components needed for audiophiles to assemble one at home. His plan was to sell the kits, then host Zoom sessions for people to hang out and build them together \u2013 an idea that found instant success during the pandemic, when the only nightclub 76 GQ OCTOBER 2022","Happy hour. On the rocks. #ThatIslandFeeling In under an hour, jump into our group activities. A different kind of tonic. Book your autumn getaway at visitguernsey.com Image \u00a9 Go Guernsey","GQ World the brand did much of its sourcing and Culture production. There he began to discover the roots of the audiophile culture that \u201cHe specifically said,\u2018I see a sound system he would eventually dedicate his life to. as a sculpture in a Chelsea gallery.\u2019\u2009\u201d But it was at a store in Paris \u2013 home to a flourishing hi-fi audio scene of its own \u2013 ISA SAALABI \u2013 where he first heard a sound system that he has described as \u201cpsychedelic,\u201d for sound production equipment.\u201d used as his tag as a graffiti writer. He Turnbull\u2019s sharp as compared to the stereo he had been When it comes to analogue music, peddled his wares downtown and got aesthetic sense listening to. \u201cAnd then,\u201d he says, \u201cI was some traction in the nascent scene is evident in the sure that that was my path.\u201d sound, of course, begins when a needle that was budding at proto\u2013streetwear design of his passes over the grooves of a record. A shops like Alife and Union. A couple speakers. These Over the next decade, while focusing small electrical signal is generated that of years later, in 2003, he cofounded boxes were on streetwear, Turnbull began making must be amplified to create a vibration Nom de Guerre with Saalabi, who had screen-printed his own hi-fi systems \u2013 avant-garde strong enough to move air through the worked for Marc Jacobs; Wil Whitney, with grey wood works he called \u201csound sculptures\u201d \u2013 tubes of a speaker to make a sound. \u201cI previously the manager of the New York grain over matt and he eventually glimpsed a chance want to do as little as possible so as to St\u00fcssy store; and Holly Harnsongkram, grey paint. to turn the sideline into a new career. not disturb the purity of that signal,\u201d a former fashion editor at W Magazine. Using his old graffiti tag, Ojas, he began he says. Turnbull\u2019s unique designs thus Mixing their various backgrounds in to produce large-scale brutalist sound contain a surprising paradox. \u201cYou art, graphic design, streetwear, and high systems distinguished by their nat- could call it a minimalist approach fashion, they tore down the walls that uralistic audio quality. As Ojas grew, to audio reproduction,\u201d he says. \u201cBut stood between their various worlds and Turnbull increasingly felt like there was if you look at the stuff, it doesn\u2019t look created a subterranean shop in down- more to be done with the equipment minimalist at all. It\u2019s extremely heavy, town Manhattan where all kinds of he was building. In 2020 he hired two extremely large.\u201d Here\u2019s an import- ideas about high design intermingled. full-time employees and moved his busi- ant fact when it comes to hi-fi audio: ness operation from the top floor of his Larger speakers do not have to use With Nom de Guerre, Turnbull Brooklyn townhouse to an industrial more power. Ojas systems, counterin- made frequent trips to Japan, where workshop in the Brooklyn Navy Yard. tuitively, use massive horns, boxes the Now, Ojas is capable of building about size of refrigerators, and subwoofers as 15 custom speaker setups per year. It\u2019s big as dumpsters, because Turnbull is an increasingly more robust operation using super-low-wattage amplifiers to but one that\u2019s still relatively small-scale power them. Larger speakers allow for compared to the burgeoning interest in less distortion and high dynamics. this unique form of hi-fi audio. The result is a sound system with a Last year, one of Turnbull\u2019s friends, visual impact that is nearly as great as the artist Hugh Hayden, introduced him its aural impact. Turnbull \u2013 who most to an avowed audiophile named Alex days wears baggy cargo trousers and graphic T-shirts with a baseball cap, and has the cool, streetwise vibe of an aging skater \u2013 says that he is \u201c100 percent acoustically motivated.\u201d It just so happens that he has a highly devel- oped aesthetic sensibility to go with his audio-engineering expertise. Born in New York, Turnbull relocated to Iowa with his family when he was 11. After dropping out of high school, he dropped out of high school, then moved to Washington State at 17 to study \u201cthe science and business of sound,\u201d as he calls it, at the Art Institute of Seattle. There, he learned to read a schematic of audio electronics \u2013 the drawing that explains how a piece of equipment is made \u2013 and took a class in graphic design, which he found came natu- rally to him. In 1999, Turnbull moved back to New York and started making stickers and T-shirts and hats printed with Ojas \u2013 a Sanskrit term that loosely translates to \u201clife vitality\u201d and that he 78 GQ OCTOBER 2022","Devon Turnbull builds speakers, amps, and turntables by hand to create unique hi-fi sound systems. OCTOBER 2022 GQ 79","GQ Hype is the big story of right now: your gateway to the artists, voices and ideas shaping culture. Watch for the cover drop on Mondays at GQ.co.uk and @BritishGQ","Many of Turnbull\u2019s Logsdail, the CEO of Lisson Gallery, and listen to the Ojas system for as long GQ World speakers and where Hayden shows his work. Logsdail as they pleased. The musical offerings components are invited Turnbull to place an Ojas system included sessions with the legendary Culture developed in the inside his Chelsea gallery as part of a jazz imprint Blue Note Records, a selec- listening room on show called \u201cThe Odds Are Good, the tion of ambient music by Brian Eno, and Iowa, to be closer to the Transcendental the top floor of Goods Are Odd,\u201d which included works live performances recorded directly to Meditation community there. Turnbull his Brooklyn by Hayden and other artists with a focus tape and played back over the sound and his sister were educated at a private townhouse. on handmade sculpture. In a private system. Each day the room filled with a academy affiliated with the movement, 390-square-foot room located at the mix of hi-fi fanatics, Ojas acolytes, and the Maharishi School, and Turnbull back of the gallery, Turnbull installed unsuspecting gallery-goers of all sorts. recalls spending a few hours a day med- his HiFi Dream Listening Room No. 1 Turnbull rolled around the room on a itating as part of their curriculum. It \u2013 not a sculpture but a complete hand- wheeled stool, dropping records on the was \u201clike a little cult, remote, middle of built sound system. At one end of the Ojas turntable and simply listening, as nowhere,\u201d says Turnbull, who has since Listening Room, which was on dis- everyone else did, facing the speakers. stopped practising Transcendental play through August, stood a wall of Meditation and distanced himself from brutalist speakers. In the middle were One visitor, Chance Chamblin, a the community, though the experi- the turntable and the amplifiers that 21-year-old film student from New ence continues to inform his designs. power them. And at the other end were York, was familiar with Turnbull\u2019s \u201cThere\u2019s a lot that I draw from that expe- seats where visitors could sit and listen. work through social media but had rience,\u201d Turnbull tells me. \u201cThe sense All of the components were hand-built, never had the opportunity to experi- of communal consciousness tapping, angular, and matt or slightly glossy grey, ence an Ojas system for himself until and mind melding, and people getting as though carved from stone or cast it landed in the gallery. \u201cSerenity\u201d is together for a shared experience.\u201d in concrete. The feeling in the room how he describes what he found in was similarly heavy, thanks in part to that room. \u201cPeace of mind.\u201d He esti- Through his years of meditation, careful customisations of the space to mates that he spent around 30 hours Turnbull came to realise that a cer- maximise the acoustics \u2013 this is a place listening to Turnbull\u2019s system at the tain kind of patience, devotion, and where something important is going to gallery. On his first day, he sat for mind-over-matter calm can yield great happen. \u201cI really try to create an envi- seven hours. \u201cI come here to surrender rewards. He mastered the schematics ronment that feels like a temple or a myself to this gorgeous and incredi- and formulas required to build hi-fi shrine,\u201d Turnbull says, \u201cor a wellness ble-sounding system,\u201d he tells me. audio \u2013 Ojas equipment is imposing, space of some sort.\u201d with a lush and visceral sound \u2013 but he W H E N T U R N B U L L W A S 11, his parents, The listening room ran for around former Transcendental Meditation two months, free and open to the teachers, moved the family from the public (as most galleries are) to come in New York metropolitan area to Fairfield, OCTOBER 2022 GQ 81","GQ World also learned how focus and intention Just days before Hopkins. Turnbull has recently been Culture can be transformative when paired the opening of helping his parents incorporate music with exceptionally good sound. So that his Lisson Gallery into their studies as an audio consul- \u201cI try to create an people properly appreciate its quality, installation, tant, primarily by improving their environment that the HiFi Dream Listening Room No. 1 Turnbull was equipment. \u201cI told my parents that they feels like a temple encourages stillness, silence, and a still fine-tuning were only getting half of the potential or a shrine.\u201d clearing of the mind. Turnbull notes his seminal experience by overlooking the playback that visitors never had to be explicitly hi-fi project. equipment,\u201d he says. \u201cThey agreed, and \u2013 DEVON TURNBULL told to be quiet; the implicit request their joke now is that I\u2019m missing 90 was miraculously obeyed by virtually per cent of the potential of my listening all who entered the room. sessions by overlooking psychedelics.\u201d In recent years, Turnbull\u2019s par- Helping bring hi-fi audio to his ents have also moved on from parents\u2019 lives was the start of some- Transcendental Meditation. His father thing new. Turnbull is now hoping to is now the chair of the advisory board repeat that process on a grand scale, for the NYU Center for Psychedelic in a way that democratises this incred- Medicine; his mother, a guide for ibly rarefied listening experience. psilocybin studies at NYU and Johns \u201cI want to create a hi-fi for the people,\u201d he says. The first step toward that goal will be to create more free, public lis- tening rooms. Turnbull sees museums and galleries as the best opportunity to make that happen. \u201cMusic deserves these spaces,\u201d he says. \u201cI don\u2019t think there should be just one, I think there should be a lot of them. I think it\u2019s so unfortunately rare these days for peo- ple to have even a good stereo system to listen to stuff on. When the gallery approached me I realised, oh, my God, this is my dream. My ultimate hope is that this works, that there will be more of these, and you can one day go to the museum where you can sit down and enjoy sound.\u201d For Turnbull, the gallery show recontextualised his work in a radical way. \u201cWhen people ask me what I do, I have a really hard time answering that. If I say, \u2018I own an audio-component manufacturing business,\u2019 that sounds nothing like what I do,\u201d he says. Now, after his HiFi Dream Listening Room No. 1, he can simply say, \u201cI\u2019m an artist.\u201d Streaming platforms, Bluetooth speakers, and wireless earphones have made music more prevalent in our lives than ever. We never stop listening. But we primarily do it passively, streaming while we drive, work out, do chores, make dinner. Most of us don\u2019t know what it\u2019s like to listen with intention. Turnbull is now on a mission to bring his very specific vision for world-class audio beyond the micro-niche hi-fi com- munity. \u201cSound is just ripples in the air,\u201d he says. \u201cMusicians are like shamans; they learn how to manipulate people\u2019s brain functioning through those ripples in the air. I have an important respon- sibility to capture those vibrations and transmit them; to spread those vibra- tions around the world.\u201d noah johnson is gq\u2019s global style director. 82 GQ OCTOBER 2022","EXQUISITE. ELEGA NT. unforgettabl e. +44 (0) 20 7930 8181 | WHITEHALL PL ACE, LONDON SW1A 2BD CORINTHIA.COM\/LONDON","","16 NOVEMBER 2022 OFFICIAL BEER PARTNER","Pay in 3. Shop and spread the cost, interest-free. Klarna's Pay in 3 instalments credit agreements are not regulated by the FCA. Use of these and any missed payments may affect your ability to obtain credit from Klarna and other lenders. 18+, UK residents only. Subject to status. T&Cs apply. klarna.com\/uk\/terms-and-conditions.","","SWISS MODERN DAMAST LE WITH UNIQUE DAMASTEEL\u00ae BLADE Strong, precise and perfectly designed. This limited edition features a walnut wood handle and Damasteel\u00ae blade in a unique pattern. FROM THE MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE\u2122 ESTABLISHED 1884","GQ World Lifestyle Is Into Old VW Kombis and Indigenous Art The God of thunder PHOTOGRAPH, BOSS. discusses what brings him the greatest joy in life \u2013 when he\u2019s not busy being one of the most bankable actors on planet Earth. By ZAK MAOUI OCTOBER 2022 GQ 89","GQ World Lifestyle H U N D E R G O D , gym god, Clockwise from from a surf trip, my hair looks THE NOT-SO-SMART NOKIA top: Hemsworth\u2019s unintentionally rugged and I try to \u201cI\u2019ve recently purchased a really T beach parenting icon favourite holiday replicate it, but it never quite works.\u201d old shitty Nokia in an attempt to \u2013 if there\u2019s a way spot in Mallacoota; not be as accessible. Sometimes to describe Chris the Audemars VOLKSWAGEN it\u2019s annoying when you can\u2019t just Hemsworth\u2019s life Piguet watch, a gift \u201cMy dad had this old red-and-white use Google Maps, but fortunately right now, it\u2019s goals. But when he from his wife; the Volkswagen Kombi when we were my children don\u2019t keep grabbing my isn\u2019t hammering the box office as \u201cno trickery\u201d Contax growing up and it will forever be my phone and instead, [they] embrace Thor or freaking us out in Netflix\u2019s T2 camera; a favourite car. I can\u2019t even count the the real world.\u201d Spiderhead, the 39-year-old Boss classic VW Kombi number of summers I spent in that Bottled ambassador likes to extract like his dad\u2019s. thing. I don\u2019t know where it is now, AUDEMARS PIGUET himself from the Hollywood hustle, but my memory of it is as fresh as \u201cI have an Audemars Piguet watch preferring a low-key lifestyle in the day it was created.\u201d that my wife gave me a few years PHOTOGRAPHS, GET T Y, AUDEMARS PIGUET, BOSS. Australia with his family, in close ago. She\u2019s from Europe and the people proximity to the beach. It\u2019s no surprise, OTIS CAREY tend to be a little classier than us then, that when you ask the actor for \u201cI love the Indigenous artist Otis folks down in Australia, with our Rip his essential items, he veers towards Carey. I have a 20m-long wall in Curl watches and Quiksilver shorts.\u201d the sentimental, a few local favourites my house that he spent three and of course, a certain scent. LIVING UNTETHERED BY weeks painting by hand. It MICHAEL ALAN SINGER CAMPING TRIPS comprises symbols that piece \u201cI love Michael Alan Singer\u2019s \u201cWhen I was younger, my parents, who together as a prayer to the ocean.\u201d books. I\u2019m currently reading Living didn\u2019t earn very much money, would Untethered: Beyond the Human save up to take us on a two-week CONTAX T2 CAMERA Predicament, which is about letting camping trip to Mallacoota in Victoria. \u201cI love my Contax go of the voices in your head and The experiences we had are the T2 film camera. You realising, this is who I am and this best gifts I\u2019ll ever receive; they\u2019re can\u2019t buy them anymore, is where I\u2019m at.\u201d the foundations for who I am today.\u201d you\u2019ve got to find them online or discover HARVEST STEAKS BOSS BOTTLED \u201cWe\u2019re spoilt with the produce \u201cI went to the Northern Territory them somewhere where we live in Byron Bay \u2013 there last year for the first time secondhand. It has are many organic farms. Bangalow in 30 years and instantly, certainly taken the is an area just up from us and there\u2019s the scents ignited the best photos for me. a restaurant called Harvest that does childhood experiences It\u2019s old-school film, incredible steak.\u201d that I had as a young kid point and shoot, there. Scent is important there\u2019s no trickery.\u201d to me. It\u2019s also the finishing touch to any outfit. The first cologne I ever had was Boss Bottled, which my mum gave me many years ago. I always put on far too much of it.\u201d SEA SALT \u201cNatural sea salt does incredible things to my hair. When I get back 90 GQ OCTOBER 2022","","A whole new worldofinteriors.com coming soon","Why GQ World Everyone Modern Love Started Sleeping with Other People* *Consensually Since the pandemic, it seems like more and more couples are sleeping with other people. GQ steps inside the liberating, ILLUSTRATIONS BY KIKA KLAT sexually adventurous (and sometimes messy) world of consensual non-monogamy. B y R AC H E L T H O M P S O N OCTOBER 2022 GQ 93","GQ World katie and tom hadn\u2019t always wanted to sleep with other people. There was no big drama, Modern Love no outside crush that made their eyes start to wander. As two thirty-somethings who had been together eight years, they still had an active \u2013 if at times perfunctory \u2013 sex life. But they also shared reservations about the conventional route they\u2019d taken. \u201cI was a little sceptical of the traditional path of relationships where you date for a certain amount of time, then you move in together, then you get married,\u201d Katie, who works in social services, says. \u201cThat felt a bit prescribed.\u201d T W O Y E A R S A G O , a sudden slew of There were other complicating by planning to attend sex parties. \u201cA lot pandemic breakups in their friendship factors, too. \u201cWe have a three-year- of people were forced to do some per- circle triggered a conversation between old child,\u201d Katie explains. \u201cSo if, for sonal introspection and contemplate Katie and Tom about their relation- example, Tom goes for a date and has whether they were making the best ship. Having both lived through their an overnight then that means that choices for their lives and for their hap- own parents\u2019 divorces, they wanted I am taking care of her by myself.\u201d (One piness,\u201d says Yau, \u201cwhich is why we saw to understand why they were still of their rules: they could stay over at a boom in terms of people signing up to together, beyond the simple commit- a new date\u2019s place.) non-monogamous dating apps.\u201d ment to do so. After a year sitting next to each other during lockdowns, they They both agreed childcare should On Feeld, users can be upfront about both knew that neither were making be egalitarian, to avoid a situation exactly what they\u2019re into \u2013 be it BDSM, the same effort in bed that you would where one person is landed with a dis- kink, group sex, threeways, foreplay, during that honeymoon period with proportionate amount of labour while texting, or couples. Open relationships a new partner. At some point the idea the other is off having adult fun. involve a couple agreeing that they came up: what if they\u2026 slept with other can both have sex with other people people? There was something thrilling Katie and Tom are not on their own outside their relationship, but falling about the idea of finding someone new in opening up their relationship in in love with someone else wouldn\u2019t be who is into exactly the same kinks this way. Consensual non-monogamy acceptable. Polyamory differs in that you are, Katie explains. \u201cWe felt like \u2013 which isn\u2019t cheating, because all part- it\u2019s okay to love multiple people as well we were in a pretty good place and we ners involved consent and are open as being sexually intimate with them. were like, why not try it?\u201d and honest about their actions \u2013 isn\u2019t Then there\u2019s hierarchical polyamory, new, but there are signs it is having egalitarian polyamory, monogamish, Researching what their newly lib- a moment. Dating app Feeld, one of solo polyamory, relationship anarchy eral union could look like, they delved several new(ish) apps that cater to and polyfidelity \u2013 all can fit under the into the world of consensual non-mo- a wider range of relationship broad umbrella of CNM. Whatever nogamy (CNM), in which both part- styles than the strictly single-swip- your relationship status, there are ners consent to be together while also ing-for-single, has seen a 250 percent online communities where you\u2019ll find having other partners. Intrigued, they rise in monthly active users in the like-minded people open to sharing found online communities where fel- UK between January 2021 to 2022. their experience, or simply up for fun. low non-monogamous couples shared Research by the charity Brook sug- their own experiences, and ground gests that approximately 5 percent of G I D E O N , A 2 7 - Y E A R - O L D bookseller, rules. They discovered that rules like relationships are now consensually had been with his partner Alana for \u201cdon\u2019t ask don\u2019t tell\u201d \u2013 where partners non-monogamous. four years when she broached the sub- don\u2019t share any details of their sexual ject of an open relationship. Alana, or romantic exploits \u2013 are frowned \u201cDuring the pandemic, a lot of also 27, is asexual (or Ace for short), upon in the CNM community. Instead, people and couples that were stuck meaning she is someone who experi- at home started to question their ences little or no sexual desire. \u201cAlana relationship structures as a result of hadn\u2019t always known she was Ace,\u201d Gideon explains. \u201cIt was more a slow \u201cThere\u2019s something thrilling about the idea of realisation that she was going through finding someone new who is into exactly the the motions and not really interested same kinks you are. We were in a pretty good in the sexual side of relationships at place and we were like, why not try it?\u201d\u2014KATIE all. She was the one who first suggested polyamory as a possibility for us.\u201d they decided to focus on open commu- spending that time closed in together,\u201d nication, checking in regularly, and says Lyubov Sachkova, communication While Alana was not interested in being mindful of the other person\u2019s manager at Feeld. The app\u2019s lockdown sex at all, Gideon was \u201cvery much the schedule. They dropped any strict features, like virtual cores \u2013 online opposite,\u201d he says. They also knew they rules about levels of intimacy or falling spaces where people can have remote did not want this new information to in love because that seemed impossible play parties \u2013 engendered a spirit of be a relationship deal breaker. \u201cWe love to control. \u201cHow is someone supposed exploration from the safety of a sofa. each other a great deal and knew we to honour that rule once they\u2019ve fallen \u201cNow that the pandemic is not keep- didn\u2019t want to split up,\u201d says Gideon, for someone else?\u201d says Katie. ing us inside, some of those carefully \u201cbut we also knew this difference of explored desires can now be turned needs put a strain on our relationship.\u201d Strictly off-limits: no exes, no friends into reality,\u201d Sachkova says. of friends, no one they\u2019re directly con- Polyamory appealed to Gideon, he nected with, so as to avoid the possi- Leanne Yau, founder of Poly Philia \u2013 says, because it unlocked a new realm bility of drama should anything go which provides education on non-mo- of options in which Alana \u2013 whom he sour. Sexual protection was also very nogamy on social media \u2013 agrees that describes as his \u201crock and best friend\u201d important to them. (If Tom were to get the pandemic was the moment that \u2013 could still be in his life, while he also someone else pregnant \u201cit would be many partners started to become enjoyed sex. But it\u2019s not just about that a whole mess\u201d, says Katie.) more sexually liberated, for example for him. \u201cI wouldn\u2019t be able to have sex with someone I wasn\u2019t emotionally intimate with as well,\u201d he says. 94 GQ OCTOBER 2022","Alana says there are certain things feel ashamed of my own needs because with my needs and accepting of the fact she cannot provide for Gideon. \u201cWhile I have this outlet that doesn\u2019t make that one person cannot possibly meet we work extremely well together, we Alana uncomfortable.\u201d all of them; coming to terms with that aren\u2019t a perfect fit,\u201d she says. Gideon is being okay was a whole different jour- more outgoing, for example, while she One side effect? Gideon and Alana ney of self-discovery.\u201d struggles with spontaneity and large both put in more effort with each other, crowds. \u201cOpening up our relationship too. \u201cI think it\u2019s easy to become com- To people who\u2019ve never considered provides another avenue for those placent when you\u2019ve been together non-monogamy, the idea of having interests to be nurtured and encour- for many years,\u201d she says,\u201cin a way multiple emotional and sexual part- aged and I often find myself grateful where you\u2019re not actively trying to ners might seem greedy. But one of that someone else can step in and fill woo the other person as much as you the pillars of non-monogamy is that those gaps.\u201d At the same time, she wor- were in the beginning.\u201d That compla- the idea of possessing your significant ries that they\u2019ll end up breaking up cency, when held up against \u201cnew rela- other \u2013 of being the be-all and end-all because of something she cannot give tionship energy\u201d is jarring, she says. to each other \u2013 isn\u2019t sustainable. It\u2019s not him. (Alana doesn\u2019t have relationships Opening up their relationship has about wanting more, but rather, own- with other people, but could if she made them step back and figure out ing less. Samy Zerrouki, the co-founder wanted to.) \u201cIt becomes much more how they can continuously reaffirm of non-monogamy app Campfire, calls real when there actually is someone how they feel for one another. \u201cIt took this the \u201cend of the cultural hegemony else who can do those things that you several difficult, emotional conver- of \u2018exclusivity\u2019\u201d. In layman\u2019s terms, can\u2019t,\u201d she says. sations to get here, but I feel like our we\u2019re over being someone\u2019s \u201cother relationship is stronger now,\u201d she adds. half \u201d and more interested in being Gideon and Alana\u2019s relationship whole selves to multiple fully formed has changed for the better. \u201cAlana For Gideon, he likes how he can be partners. \u201cInterestingly, non-monog- no longer feels pressured to have sex vulnerable with more than one person. amy being more mainstream seems which was a big stressor for her,\u201d he \u201cIt became apparent to me that I had to go hand in hand with the boom explains. \u201cAt the same time, I no longer always been poly, but never acted on it,\u201d of the sharing economy, with the likes he says. \u201cI\u2019m poly because I am in tune OCTOBER 2022 GQ 95","GQ World Modern Love \u201cIt always felt wrong to me \u2018saves\u2019 myself,\u201d Quinn says. He\u2019s been relationships fail. \u201cIt can be very con- that I dump all of my needs with his girlfriend for three years and fronting and scary to be sexually and\/ on one individual.\u201d\u2014GIDEON during that time he\u2019s had casual play or romantically open,\u201d says Yau. \u201cWe\u2019re partners and a few \u201cone-time fucks\u201d. conditioned to believe that this is a sign of Airbnb, Uber, Zipcar,\u201d says Zerrouki, Quinn\u2019s girlfriend \u2013 with whom he\u2019s in that we\u2019re not good enough.\u201d \u201cPeople seem to have abandoned the a long-distance relationship \u2013 has three concept of owning things.\u201d other partners, one of whom they are In fact, jealousy can be a good thing. due to wed. \u201cI\u2019m going to be the best \u201cJealousy can be a really useful tool to Q U I N N , A 2 4 - Y E A R - O L D trans man, man in my girlfriend\u2019s wedding to their help you ask for the attention and love describes his relationship style as solo fianc\u00e9e,\u201d he says. you need to feel affirmed by your part- polyamory. Solo poly has a lot of the ner or partners,\u201d explains sex educator hallmarks of being single \u2013 sleeping Quinn is on Tinder and a couple of Gigi Engle. Jealousy, Engle explains, is with lots of different people, having other apps to seek partners for casual usually a symptom of a need not being independence, living alone \u2013 but with sex. He\u2019s not looking for any other met or an insecurity in the relation- one major difference. Being solo poly serious relationships, but does want ship. \u201cIt\u2019s important to understand that involves having multiple deep, mean- more frequent sex, especially since he jealousy doesn\u2019t just go away because ingful relationships with several peo- began taking testosterone as part of his you\u2019re polyamorous, and it doesn\u2019t ple without having one \u201cmain\u201d partner. transition. It might sound complicated mean you aren\u2019t \u2018doing CNM right\u2019 A solo polyamorist sees themselves as \u2013 but for Quinn, being poly is an exer- because you get jealous. You just have their main partner and typically rejects cise in simplification. Quinn is neuro- to be willing to confront it and be hon- the conventional rites of passage that divergent, so the communication style est with your partners so they can help come with monogamous relation- fostered in non-monogamous relation- you get through it.\u201d ships, like moving in together, getting ships is hugely beneficial. \u201cAs someone hitched, or having kids. who\u2019s autistic, the conversations that All the Googling in the world doesn\u2019t non-monogamy forces you to have necessarily help us unlearn some of the \u201cMy \u2018primary relationship\u2019 is always \u2013 about boundaries, other relation- deep-seated ideas we have about rela- going to be with myself \u2013 something ships, what you\u2019re looking for \u2013 work tionships that opening them up may that\u2019s especially important to me as well with my need to have everything surface. \u201cPolyam directly subverts the someone who has struggled with explicitly on the table,\u201d Quinn adds. socially prescribed narrative of how severe mental illness. While I can get people are supposed to act in relation- support from the people around me, Even with completely open dia- ships,\u201d says Engle. In real life, that plays ultimately I have to be the one who logue and strict boundaries, jealousy out in the rules and boundaries at play and insecurity are an inevitable part in some CNM relationships. Rules like of any CNM relationship \u2013 in fact, it\u2019s the \u2018one penis policy\u2019, where the man the most common reason that CNM stipulates his girlfriend or wife only 96 GQ OCTOBER 2022"]