MU - Fall 2021

michigan Uncorked VOL. 3 NO. 3 FALL 2021 The Michigan Wine Collaborative has partnered with Lake Michigan College to produce the first ever Judgement of Michigan wine evaluation. Taking place Aug. 3, the event will bring together relevant, experienced and diverse wine professionals to taste and evaluate the very vest wines Michigan has to offer. • PROMOTING MICHIGAN WINES • MINERALS & MICROBES • PÉT-NAT • NICOLE TRIPLETT• PAIRING WITH PINOT HOW LOW CAN THEY GO?

CONTENTS www.michiganuncorked.com 4 PROMOTING MICHIGAN WINES From Grand Rapids to Detroit, wine industry professionals are doing more to draw attention to Michigan wines. 10 MINERALS & MICROBES Where does minerality as a flavor note come from? Directly from the soil? Or, as some experts now claim, do microbes play a role? 13 PÉT-NAT It’s a primitive and rustic way to make sparkling wine — pétillant naturel — usually referred to as pét-nat. It may be rustic, but it’s a funky new trend. 17 NICOLE TRIPLETT Believed to be Michigan’s first Black female winemaker, Nicole Triplett, a practicing psychologist, opened Twine Urban Winery in Kalamazoo in March as a showcase for her Roché Collection. 20 PAIRING WITH PINOT Pinot Noir is truly a terroir tuning fork, delivering what the French refer to as “the taste of a place” more than any other varietal. It’s a finicky grape, but pairs nicely with many foods. 23 HOW LOW CAN THEY GO? Low alcohol and no-alcohol wines are a trend that is on the rise throughout the country. Many consumers are choosing low alcohol wines (and other beverages) for a variety of reasons. 26 BETWEEN THE VINES Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines. 2 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Cover Art: Courtesy of Michigan Wine Collaborative

MESSAGE FROM THE EDITOR t the infamous Paris Wine Tasting of 1976, also known as the Judgment of Paris, the French judges carried out two blind tasting comparisons: one of top-quality Chardonnays and another of red wines (Bordeaux wines from France and Cabernet Sauvignon wines from California). A California wine won in each category, catapulting the U.S. into the global wine market. In Michigan, our winemakers enter statewide, national and international competitions to promote our wines. In this issue of Michigan Uncorked, Jessica Zimmer shows how wine industry professionals work hard to draw attention to Michigan wines. Madeleine Vedel digs in to her subject— minerals and microbes. Can grapevine roots absorb minute bits of granite directly or, as some experts propose, are some soils conducive to microorganisms which add mineralogy to the wine. Cortney Casey introduces us to the wonders of Pét-Nat, a primitive and rustic way to make sparkling wine — It may be rustic, but it’s a funky new trend. And Sharon Flesher makes an introduction to Michigan’s rst Black female winemaker: Nicole Triplett. A practicing psychologist, Triplett opened Twine Urban Winery in Kalamazoo in March as a showcase for her Roché Collection. How low can it go? Low-alcohol wines are the latest trend, along with sparkling wines, hard cider and seltzers. Michael Schafer, Esq. takes a look at what’s driving this trend. Michigan Uncorked welcomes new contributor Anna Maria Giambanco DiPietro, who provides some Pinot Noir background and food pairing ideas. As Anna explains: “Pinot is truly a terroir tuning fork, delivering what the French refer to as ‘the taste of a place’ more than any other varietal.” And last, but never least, our very own in-house sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines. Cheers, Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Cortney Casey, Anna Maria Giambanco DiPietro, Sharon Flesher, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Michael Schafer, Esq., Madeleine Vedel, Jessica Zimmer michiganUncorked Vol. 3 No. 3 Fall 2021 if

Charles Jackson Jr. MICHIGAN WINE Outreach and opportunities showcase the Great Lakes State F BY JESSICA ZIMMER From Grand Rapids to Detroit, wine industry professionals are doing more to draw attention to Michigan wines. They’re showcasing the range, quality, and histories behind di erent vintages. “The key is increasing outreach and opportunities for many more people, from wine critics and restaurant owners to students and community members. The challenge has been especially tough during the COVID-19 pandemic,” said Emily Dockery, executive director of the Michigan Wine Collaborative (MWC). The MWC is a statewide nonpro t that advocates for the sustainability and pro tability of Michigan’s wine industry. Dockery said as restrictions from the pandemic ease, MWC members are making in-person visits to restaurants, wine shops, and other types of businesses to explain how Michigan wines are made and the quality of the vintages. The members are also sharing how the wine industry is welcoming people of color and members of the LGBTQIA+ community as employees and customers. Kristy Cook, the manager of Central Kitchen + Bar in Detroit, said interactions with customers drive wine-related activity: “Many guests don’t like to be educated. They feel you’re talking down to them. We look to learn more about what guests like, such as peppery or sweet wines. Then we can recommend di erent producers and wines. We help them grow their knowledge.” 4 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ff ifif ff

Cook said it has been a challenge that there are fewer Michigan-made wines to put on the wine list due to the COVID-19 pandemic. “The interest in Black winemakers encouraged us to start carrying selections from the McBride Sisters Collection, the largest Black-owned wine company in the U.S. This is helping introduce customers to Black winemakers and Black-owned wineries,” said Cook. Cook added that Central Kitchen + Bar has a wine locker club, which is also an advantage. A wine locker allows guests to bring and store their own wines to enjoy with dinner. “The wine locker allows diners to educate us and one another about what wines they like. We see a particular interest in wines from the 45th parallel, which runs through Italy's Piedmont region, the Rhone Valley and Bordeaux in France, and the Leelanau Peninsula in Michigan. People did not always think of Michigan as wine country. That is changing,” said Cook. Organizing “The Judgement of Michigan” “The Judgement of Michigan,” a new event for the Michigan wine industry, is expected to draw attention to all of Michigan’s approximately 160 wineries. The classic wine evaluation is set to take place on August 3, 2021, at Lake Michigan College in Benton Harbor. MWC has been partnering with Lake Michigan College to organize the event since early 2021. The Judgement of Michigan will host 21 judges from di erent sectors, including restaurants, media, retail, and wholesale, said Professor Michael Moyer, director of wine and viticulture technology at Lake Michigan College. “We’ve reached out to quali ed judges from Chicago to Atlanta to share the best that Michigan wineries have to o er. The idea is to put Michigan wines in front of these folks, wine professionals who buy, sell, distribute, or in uence wine purchases in stores and restaurants,” said Moyer. Dockery said MWC and Lake Michigan College are encouraging judges to use social media channels to share their thoughts on di erent wines. “We expect larger producers will develop opportunities to secure partnerships with distributors, restaurants and retailers. Smaller producers will create relationships with writers and in uencers. All parties are bene ting from media exposure as they get closer to be able to accommodate on- and o -premise demand outside the tasting rooms,” said Dockery. The importance of two Detroit vineyards Wine judge Derrick Westbrook Pingree Farms is an urban agriculture education center at the southwest corner of I-75 and 7 Mile Road in Detroit. Juana Woodson, interim 5 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ffiflf ff lfffif ff

“Our presence shows Michiganders and visitors that wineries are accessible. They can ask us questions about Michigan wines and wine regions. We do a lot of education in the tasting rooms. We even recommend wines we don’t produce.” — Jessica Youngblood 6 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page

executive farm manager, said Pingree Farms seeks to revitalize the neighborhood and teach youth gardening and animal husbandry skills. “We have a partnership in place with Youngblood Vineyard and recently planted 37 new vines on the property. We’re currently coordinating with the Michigan State University Extension Master Gardener program to see if it’s possible to create a viticulture program,” said Woodson. Woodson said Pingree Farms wants to invite 10th graders to work with the vines for two years. Upon completing the program, the teens would earn certi cation in viticulture. This would set them up to have experience for entry- level jobs in Michigan vineyards. “We also hope to bring them to Youngblood Vineyard to see how wine is made. In addition, we have an assortment of volunteers at Pingree Farms from local restaurants in Detroit. When these volunteers interact with the viticulture students, they can share their knowledge about careers in ne dining,” said Woodson. Jessica Youngblood, co-owner and vineyard manager of Youngblood Vineyard, said she welcomes students of all ages to study viticulture on her property. “We’re located in Macomb County, the rst and only commercial winery in metro Detroit. I am a board member of the Michigan Wine Collaborative. Since Youngblood Vineyard is an essential business, we are open seasonally through the pandemic,” said Youngblood. Youngblood said the winery serves as a practicum site for students from Michigan State University, Wayne County Community College, Oakland University, which is based in Rochester, and the Viticulture and Enology Science and Technology Alliance (VESTA). VESTA is a partnership between 17 universities and two-year colleges in the U.S., funded by the National Science Foundation that o ers wine education. Youngblood said Youngblood Vineyard also introduces many out-of-area visitors and Detroit residents to Michigan’s wine industry. “We’re within an hour of 7 million people. This year, 2021, is only our third year in operation. We are family-friendly, with chickens, a farm animal petting area, and o er freshly-made pizza on site,” said Youngblood. She said the winery sees up to a thousand guests come for holiday celebrations like the Fourth of July. “Our presence shows Michiganders and visitors that wineries are accessible. They can ask us questions about Michigan wines and wine regions. We do a lot of education in the tasting rooms. We even recommend wines we don’t produce,” said Youngblood. Nightlife and culinary excellence play a part Shatawn and Nadia Brigham Entertainment can be another avenue to share information 7 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ff ffif if if

about wine. Shatawn Brigham is a level I sommelier and co-owner of GRNoir Wine & Jazz, a wine bar and jazz club in Grand Rapids. Brigham grew up in southwest Michigan one exit away from wineries. “I don’t remember learning anything about viticulture, wine, or grapes,” said Brigham. Brigham said that as a member of the Black community, there was a perception that wine was reserved for a certain class or people, one with sophistication. “It was almost as if you had to be rich and famous to even enjoy wine. That’s the \"why\" of GRNoir; we dispel that myth. You can come here no matter where you are on the wine knowledge spectrum. We will make you feel comfortable exploring wine you have little familiarity with,” said Brigham. GRNoir opened in February 2021. Before reopening to full capacity in late June 2021, the venue survived mainly on wine club memberships, curbside, and online orders. “We opened on February 1, 2021, the rst day of Black History Month. With the exception of a few slow days and a two-week hiatus, we've been steady, especially on jazz nights that have been booked since we opened. We’re in the Heartside District of Grand Rapids, historically (an arts district), which is perfect for us,” said Brigham. Brigham said Black-owned businesses have the di cult task of working structural and cultural inequities in the system. Charles Jackson, Jr. “This is particularly true for Black businesses, like GRNoir, that are entering industries that have little representation, like the wine industry,” said Brigham. Charles Jackson Jr. is the chair of the MWC’s Inclusion and Expansion Committee and co-founder of The Mahogany Tasters, a tasting group formed by members who were previously part of the African American Wine Tasting Society’s Detroit Chapter. Jackson is also a wine ambassador and the excursion ambassador at the House of Pure Vin, a ne wine shop in Detroit. Jackson said Detroit is currently experiencing a Renaissance in wine and culinary excellence. “This is going to drive wine sales. Even though the pandemic changed the situation somewhat, there are more opportunities to celebrate wine and Michigan wines than there were in previous decades,” said Jackson. Jackson said between 2015 and 2019, the number and quality of restaurants, boutique hotels, and ne wine stores elevated the standard for wine purchases. They also helped raise awareness of the di erent wine regions in Michigan. 8 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ffif if iff if

Businesses such as House of Pure Vin have an important role in sharing information about Michigan wines and attracting diverse customers. “Regina Gaines, co-owner and co-founder of House of Pure Vin, and colleagues who operate similar businesses are reaching beyond their doors. They are using social media e ectively, educating customers about Michigan’s AVAs over apps like Instagram Live and Zoom,” said Jackson. Jackson said in fall 2021, a mix of in-person, virtual, and hybrid events has the potential to keep wine sales high. “You could sell tickets for an in-person experience, like a talk, and ship bottles to people’s homes who are participating virtually. This creates an experience with multiple points of access. The event can be marketed to di erent types of audiences at di erent price points,” said Jackson. Jackson said including sommeliers and hospitality professionals of color and from the LGBTQIA+ community in wine events is also bene cial. The invitations and presence of a diverse group of members of the industry shows that Michigan’s wine industry is changing. “When the customers see professionals of color and people from the LGBTQIA+ community there, that changes how they see the industry. They feel like they can relax and they belong,” said Jackson. Dockery added the MWC is prioritizing actions to provide nancial support for new entrants to the wine industry. “MWC is working towards funding scholarships for individuals to study to become certi ed by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) quali cations. It is also looking to fund scholarships for individuals focused on the production side of wine so they can pursue classes o ered through VESTA,” said Dockery. The MWC has a few other ideas to support members. It is continuing to educate members on best practices on social media. It is inviting the world to Michigan wine country through social networking, and helping wineries develop online marketplaces and avenues for e-commerce. Dockery said the MWC supports wineries and restaurants’ creative use of outdoor space to o er wine. “Further, we’re working to build relationships with groups historically excluded from the wine industry. The message is that Michigan wine is for everyone. It takes all of us to build a sustainable future for the Michigan wine industry,” said Dockery. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a news reporter, attorney, and educator based in northern California. She has worked in journalism for over 20 years. She covers  a wide variety of industries, including alcoholic beverage production, transportation, law, and the arts. 9 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED ff ffifif if if ffff ff

MINERALs and Microbes BY MADELEINE VEDEL Where does minerality as a avor note come from? Can roots absorb minute bits of granite? Or limestone? Or, as some Michigan winegrowers propose, maybe some soils are particularly conducive to a certain family of microorganisms, which provide the elusive smell. Traditionally, those mineral notes of int, petrichor and gunpowder have been found in wines, both red and white, grown in cooler climates, in chalky elds and granite rich hillsides in such areas as Champagne, Campania, and the upper Rhône valley. And yet, the experts cannot agree on their true origins. It remains a mystery. In a blog post by Vinfolio in 2015, concerning earthiness and minerality in wine, the author writes of the opposing views between a small number of scientists who believe that root systems are capable of absorbing crushed minerals directly; and, what he de nes as a “vast majority” of scientists and geologists who rebut this theory with the belief that it is “the superior drainage that rocky soils o er that allows vines to grow more fruit, [producing] a brighter, more acidic character that takes on mineral-like avors.” In an online article published on Vivino.com concerning minerality in wine, Dr. Kevin Pogue of VinTerra Consulting in Walla Walla, Washington, shares that “what most people describe as minerality is the result of acidity interacting with phenolic components to provide avors that seem like part of the mineral, rather than biological world.\" Elaborating further, he says that \"to my knowledge, no one has isolated the speci c compounds that account for the 'minerality' sensation, but we do know that it does not derive from the translocation of minerals in the soil to our taste buds via grapes.\" Dr. Laura Catena, founder of the Catena Institute of Wine and also managing director of Argentina-based Bodega Catena Zapata, in the May 18, 2021 article in Wine Enthusiast is “convinced that soil has an impact, possibly related to microbes and yeasts that vary according to altitude and soil type. But [our researchers] are still in the process of studying this.” 10 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page iflf lfffififlf lf

Vintner and winery owner Nathaniel Rose and his vineyard amino acids and other complexities moving their way into the manager Tom Cariano are keeping abreast of recent research plants.” Plant biology class, says Cariano, teaches that “it’s more and applying what they’ve learned to their Leelanau County economical for the plant to take in the amino acids, than the vineyards. Nathaniel, having tasted Michigan wines grown in minerals themselves, saving the plant energy in their sandy soils with unexpected and unanticipated minerality, manufacture. So, how are these amino acids getting into the wonders about the role of the actual microbial populations in plant and how does that translate into the formation of the soil, as it applies to the speci c terroir of a vineyard, being avonoids, chemical composition for avors on grapes?” at least partly responsible for certain avor notes in a wine. Bio-research is underway under the forest oor in British A conversation with Tom Cariano sent me looking up the Columbia, in stands of Aspen in Colorado and in the Upper following de nitions, as shared in research paper abstracts on Peninsula of Michigan, making use of colored dyes and the National Library of Medicine: National Center for radioactive and stable cesium isotopes to map out the reach Biotechnology Information website. I share these here: and scope of root connectivity, provoking further research to more intrusive pests like powdery mildew. Rhyzophagy: The degradation of symbiotic microbes within root cells; Will the next evolution go beyond insecticides and fungicides rhizophagy symbiosis or rhizophagy cycle is a cyclic process to stimulate the plant’s roots to draw these micro-organisms to whereby plants obtain nutrients from symbiotic bacteria that alternate between a root intracellular endophytic phase and a free living soil phase. Endophytic Microbes: Mostly bacteria and fungi, present asymptomatically in plants. Endophytic microbes are often functional in that they may carry nutrients from the soil into plants, modulate plant development, increase stress tolerance of plants, suppress virulence in pathogens, increase disease resistance in plants, and suppress development of competitor plant species. And Trichoderma: and into it, and so enhance its inherent ability to do the work so Are fungi present in nearly all soils. In addition to colonizing many felt the farmer had to manage topically with chemical roots, they attack, parasitize and otherwise gain nutrition sprays? from other fungi, enhancing plant and root growth. Current experiments are looking to understand their role – potential SYMBIOSIS and actual – in aiding plants to compete for nutrients and space, tolerate stress, solubilize and sequester inorganic We’re discovering new relationships, symbiotic relationships in nutrients, resist and/or inactivate pathogens. the root zone, on an exponential level now.” Tom says, his voice bubbling with enthusiasm. “We’re discovering what these In his care for the vineyards — predominantly vinifera with relationships have, and it’s really an interesting basis to consider some plants going back multiple decades to the original how does it translate to the avor of the wine? Plants are plantings located on the southeastern shores of Leelanau actually not vegetarian. Peninsula – Tom has been asking himself where minerality comes from, how it gets past “the cell wall barriers, chains of 11 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page lf lf lflf iflfif

Plants actually consume bacteria. I go back to what I learned in biology in high school. How do avor compounds, minerality enters into the vine? A plant can consume a bacteria that has preformed amino acids that can be used in the formation of avor compounds.” As the curious go further and further down the rabbit hole, perusing scienti c articles on current research published through the nih.gov website : https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/nlmcatalog/journals, thoughts turn towards what it would take to bring back natural balance to the soil beneath our feet. A profound respect is born for the complexity of the soil universe, and the ignorance of even the most advanced biologist where it is concerned. “It’s all cutting edge. We’re still learning, and still trying to understand, primarily through observation. But we don’t yet understand the science behind it, how these relationships are coming about.” Tom continues, “Our goal in the vineyard is to increase plant health to allow the ultimate expression of a plant. A soil that is most natural does that. We’re trying to cultivate a soil that is self-sustainable. [But] how do you do that under a commercial production scale? A lot of what we thought were ways in the past, have been proved by recent science to actually, truly inhibit that from happening.” How far does a nutrient travel to get to its destination? How important is the immediate soil surrounding a vine? In the old vineyards of Southern France, vintners proudly describe how deep their roots have dug, how many meters – 10, 50 - , and the layers of soil/gravel/clay/sand they have penetrated. And if those deep roots are also communicating and sharing amongst themselves under and through those many layers? Do older vines nourish the young? Which of the fungi and bacteria inhabiting those soils are particular and inherent to the resulting fruit and wine? How have we harmed the natural balance of these micro- organisms over the years in using chemical insecticides, herbicides and fungicides? What if the vintner farmer could assist his vineyards by introducing bacteria blends that could enhance the plant’s own defense mechanisms, and create the conditions of balance and health that would improve the complexity of his wine over time? Nathaniel swears by a blend of 30 known bacteria, trichoderma conceived in the Northwestern United States that he applies through trenching to the top layer of his soil. Taking a break from receiving guests at his vineyard, Nathaniel shares, “One of the really big questions – for those who are winemakers and vineyard people, not scientists, not experts – is this: If this theory of the micro-biology of a place is more important than the mineral content of the soil, there are two ways that that could come about: 1) on the grape skins themselves there are all sorts of yeasts, fungal micro-organisms and bacteria; and there are yeasts living and active in the cellar. Both populations are particular to a certain spot. 2) There is also a unique population living in the soil a ecting not just the nutrient uptake but also producing hormones a ecting the plants to produce di erent compounds themselves.” And then he had to run. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Madeleine Vedel was introduced to the world of wine by her parents, who had a small, but prized wine cellar. While married to a French chef in Provence, she ran food and wine tours for nearly 20 years. She is currently based in Mancelona, honing her cheese, chocolate and pastry skills and happily consuming both local and international wines within her budget. 12 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED ffffff if lflf

Something Old, Something New W by Cortney Casey hat’s old is new again — at least in Josh Morgan’s cellar. For the last few years, the Petoskey Farms winemaker has been experimenting with pétillant naturel, a sparkling wine a ectionately known as “pét-nat” (pet-nah) across the industry. “This is an uncontrolled and hands-o approach to winemaking — I’m not intervening,” says Morgan. “It’s that ‘nothing added, nothing taken away’ mentality.” For many consumers, the product may appear new: It’s something they’ve never seen on the shelves before. But in reality, “it’s actually the most primitive and rustic way to make bubbly wine,” says Mitch Ermatinger, a fellow pét-nat fan and owner of Grand Rapids-based Speciation Artisan Ales and Native Species Winery. “I describe it as a rustic bubbly wine, and most of them are extremely accessible.” Grapes gone wild In French, pétillant naturel translates to “natural sparkling,” which concisely summarizes the philosophy behind these bubblies. The e ervescence in pét-nat relies on méthode ancestrale, or the ancestral method of sparkling wine production, in which no outside yeast is added — the fermentation relies on the natural yeast that exists on the grapes. And there’s only a single fermentation; the product is bottled prior to that fermentation’s completion, trapping the bubbles inside the beverage. The simple explanation, according to Ermatinger: “Step 1: Crush grapes. Step 2: Begin wild fermentation. Step 3: Package in bottles before fermentation is over. Step 4: Drink.” By contrast, during méthode traditional, or traditional method, the addition of yeast and sugar to a bottled still wine triggers the production of carbon dioxide via a secondary fermentation in the bottle to create a sparkling wine. In charmat method, or tank method, the same additions induce a bubble-generating secondary fermentation in a pressurized tank. 13 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ff ff ff















But back to our nicky, late-ripening, thin-skinned friend. Also in climates with extended cool growing seasons proximal to large known as Spatburgunder, Franc Pineau, and Pineau de bodies of water, oftentimes nestled in fertile valleys. Bourgoyne, its name translates to “black pine cone” due to its conical shape and deep, dark coloring. Notoriously one of the Pinot’s history goes way back to its rst written record in 1345, most di cult varietals, Pinot’s tight clusters are super sensitive where it was referred to as “Plant Fin.” One of the oldest vines, it’s to soil composition, climate, light, and even sound. Vintners in named for its pinecone-shaped fruit bunches. Legend has it that Burgundy have been known to install soundproo ng in their the Gallic Aedui tribe dwelling in modern Burgundy as far back as facilities, so as to limit noise and vibrations around their the Iron Age introduced the Roman Republic to Pinot Noir. Later precious resting juice. I like to refer to Pinot as the “princess on, monks and nuns in the region nurtured Pinot in vineyards and the pea” of wine varietals. throughout the region, striving for proximity to God via ardent “Pinot delivers what the French refer to as the ‘taste of a place’” I recently asked Vince Anter, founder and host of “V is for Vino,” perfecting of their vines. During the French revolution, church- America's #1 Wine Show, to weigh in on persnickety Pinot. He owned vineyards were seized and distributed to individuals under shared: “Pinot Noir is the end-all-be-all of wine grapes. It’s the Napoleonic Code. hedonistic while light and fresh. It’s such a good representation of the place it comes from. And it is the perfect food pairing Stateside, European grapevines were planted (rather wine; its acidity cuts through fatty dishes, matches acidic unsuccessfully, thanks to their susceptibility to phylloxera and dishes, and its light body doesn’t overwhelm food.” other diseases) as early as 1619. By 1767 Spanish missionaries brought European varietals to California, but the rst mention of As a big, bold, red wine lover, I only began to explore the Pinot Noir was when French immigrants imported it in 1850. charming realm of Pinot Noir in recent years. In bygone days, if Outside France, Northern Italy, Germany, and Switzerland, it now someone so much as o ered me a glass of a light-bodied red thrives in Washington, New York, and Michigan. —or even worse—white wine, I’d turn and run the other way. Living in New England, holed up with pepperoni pizza during Food Pairing & Pinot Noir many a blizzard, Cab Francs, Petit Verdot, super Tuscans, and Bordeaux blends became my go-to bottles. Later on, working Pinot is truly a terroir tuning fork, delivering what the French refer as a steward at one of the oldest wineries in the U.S. helped to as “the taste of a place” more than any other varietal. Keeping expand my palate and I acquired my oenophile sea legs. that in mind, when pairing Pinot with various dishes, consider the Needless to say, I’m now a icted with an expensive Pinot subtle nuances that di erent regions impart to their wines. For appreciation. example, fruit-forward styles with vibrant acidity come to life when paired with creamy risotto and pasta dishes, salmon, or About Pinot Noir halibut. Considered to be more than 2,000 years old, Pinot Noir is a More tannic versions pair nicely with bacon, grilled chicken, duck, great grandparent of other grapes such as Aligoté, Gamay, and turkey. (The tannins soften the mouthfeel by binding with Chardonnay, and Corvina. It’s one of the few red grapes that’s meat proteins.) These earthy bottles complement smoky, roasted used to make sparkling, rosé, white, and red wines. It thrives dishes, so pairing them with some down-home BBQ is a good way to go. 21 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ff if if lffff ififfif

Feeling adventurous? Try your hand at stir-fried vegetables with a liberal dousing of Chinese ve-spice and soy sauce. If you seek a more traditional pairing, root veggies, beef steaks, tru e and mushroom dishes, and beef Bourguignon make for excellent Pinot Noir companions. Prepping a happy hour cheese plate? Pinot’s versatility allows you to explore everything from herbal, earthy avors in aged Camembert, to Gruyère, Swiss, Provolone, Caciocavallo, Taleggio, and Brie. Umami-rich foods sing with vibrant Pinot Noir thanks to their tannins and astringency, so why not pour a glass with a good old-fashioned burger? Ready to explore pairing with Pinot Noir? Mark your calendars and set aside those recipes—August 18th is Pinot Noir Day—as if we need an excuse to pop a few bottles of this elegant red elixir. Anna Maria’s Michigan Pinot Pairings Black Star Farms 2017 A Capella Pinot Noir with grilled portobello mushrooms. Bell Lago Pinot Noir Reserve 2015 with a turkey sandwich. Venterra 2107 Pinot Noir with pan-seared scallops. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Anna Maria is a copywriter based in Santa Barbara County, California. She draws from her experience as a beauty and wellness professional, plant-based cook, and graphic artist to create approachable, educational content. Anna Maria is also a wine writer with a WSET Level 2 with distinction certification. 22 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED lflff if

How low can they go? By Michael Schafer, Esq. 23 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page

L ow alcohol and no-alcohol wines are a trend that is on the rise throughout the globe. Many consumers are choosing low alcohol wines for a variety of reasons, including health, stricter enforcement of drunk driving laws and simply a greater choice of beverage options. Competition with other adult beverages such as low alcohol beer and seltzers is signi cant. Tastes are constantly evolving; let’s review why and how low and no alcohol wines are gaining in popularity. Past It’s no secret that alcohol levels in wine have been rising steadily over the last couple of decades. The reasons for this development are many. First and foremost, the sugar levels in many wine grapes are much higher than they used to be in the past. Grape sugar is one of the most important factors in determining the level of alcohol in a wine. As a result of climate change, grapes are ripening faster with higher sugar levels that results in higher alcohol wine. Another reason is that winemakers have been making “bigger” wines with more oak and higher levels of alcohol. While this direction has recently slowed, it helped foster the movement to lower alcohol wines. Lastly, American wine drinkers are an increasingly greater share of the worldwide wine market and have, until recently, clamored for that lush, fruit-forward style of wine. Wineries have responded by producing the “American” style of wine. Way back in the early 1980s, low alcohol wine coolers were “all the rage.” In 1985, they comprised about 10 percent of wine consumption in the United States. One brand, Bartles & Jaymes (a made-up name) had a loyal following due to a folksy and funny TV commercial. (This brand just introduced new avors). A change in the tax law, quintupling the tax on wine-based drinks reduced that trend rather quickly. But, it’s back! Present At a very practical level, one can enjoy a larger amount of low alcohol wine than a higher alcohol wine. A bottle of German Riesling with a 9-percent level is much, much easier to drink than a bottle of Port at almost 20-percent alcohol! Even the di erence between a Cabernet Sauvignon with 15-percent alcohol and a rose’ with 10-percent alcohol is signi cant, especially if you’re enjoying a few bottles with friends over the course of a fun evening. Younger consumers, particularly Gen Z (born between 1997 and 2015), are intent on consuming lower alcohol wines. This group is extremely focused on a healthy lifestyle, including their beverage choices. Women who are pregnant and folks who are monitoring their caloric intake are fans of non- alcohol and low alcohol wines. Wellness is a tremendous factor in the trend for low alcohol wines. As a friend in the business stated: “Gen X drinks less alcohol than Boomers, Millennials consume less than Gen X and Gen Z drinks even less than Millennials!” People are seeking beverages to enjoy after a long day that has no repercussions, whether physical or social. As Joan, a member of Gen Z, puts it, “I want something I can drink a good quantity of that doesn’t have a big kick.” There are two primary methods for making no alcohol wine. Reverse osmosis pumps the wine through an extremely ne lter. The alcohol is separated from the water by distilling it. Then the water is added back to the wine concentrate left at the lter. It’s then re- ltered to remove all the alcohol. Vacuum distillation applies heat to wine containing alcohol evaporating the alcohol from the wine. This works because alcohol has a lower boiling temperature than the other parts of the wine. 24 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ifififif ifff lf if

Local Bryan Ulrich, founder and winemaker at Left Foot Charley in Traverse City, MI produces some outstanding low alcohol wines. His Le Caban Riesling from the Old Mission Peninsula is 10.7 percent and his Late Harvest Riesling is only 8.8 percent. “We’re focused on making delicious wines and some of them are low in alcohol. Many of the nest German wines are below 10 percent. Taste is what matters,” says Bryan. Mawby is a name known to most wine enthusiasts in the Midwest, if not the United States. While known for their award-winning sparkling wines, both fun and serious, they have a new line of bubblies at only 6 percent alcohol. The “Bubbs” are infused with organic teas and botanicals and real fruit juice. As Larry Mawby, the founder of Mawby, puts it: “These are our version of bubbly coolers for the discerning drinker.” Future The future looks extremely bright for both low and no alcohol wines. Market share is growing steadily, the variety and quality of both styles of wines and wine-based beverages is growing, and vintners are getting more and more imaginative with their creations. No alcohol wines are still a very small part of the United States wine landscape, approximately 5 percent of the market. Of that market, Ariel Vineyards and Fre’ are by far the two most popular brands. Fre’ uses “the spinning cone” technique. This technique spins the wine at high-speed using a cone to remove the alcohol. Alcohol not only accounts for an intoxicating e ect, it also contributes to the texture and body of wine. The challenges of producing low alcohol or non- alcohol wines will be overcome by the ever-rising demand for these wines. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Michael A. Schafer Esq. is a sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine and Certified Specialist of Spirits. He edutains consumers and trains hospitality teams about all wine and spirits. He may be reached at TheWineCounselor.com or [email protected].  25 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED ff if

Between the Vines Ellen Landis, CS, CSW Aurora Cellars | NV Brut Rosé | Leelanau Peninsula Boas ng an aroma as fresh as a summer ocean breeze, this vivacious bubbly is lively, pure, and expressive with lovely e ervescence and ne balance. Fruit focused and creamy in the mouth, think orange creamsicle, cranberry compote, and cherries jubilee in a glass, delicious all the way through the spirited nish. | SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Bibb le uce/dried cherry/chevre salad with Champagne vinaigre e | www.auroracellars.com Hawthorne Vineyards | 2018 Semi-dry Gewürztraminer | Old Mission Peninsula The perfumed aroma of a fresh bridal bouquet of white roses is heavenly. This gem invigorates at rst sip and sings with typicity on the palate, as the interlacing of lychee, mango, peach, and ginger creates a vibrant explosion of avors. Tingling acidity keeps the wine balanced and the nish is long and silky. | SRP: $16 | Food pairing: Turkey Monte Cristo | www.hawthornevineyards.com French Valley Vineyard | 2018 Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula Crisp acidity frames this s mula ng, brilliantly balanced wine. If you are a Riesling fan (and even if you are not), you should seek this extraordinary Riesling out. The wet stone, mineral notes accent a fresh, juicy white peach, citrusy core, and the wine is taut and refreshing from the come-hither aroma c, through the winning palate, to the memorable nish. SRP: $18 | Food pairing: Classic crab boil | www.fvvineyard.com Chateau Chantal | Proprietor’s Reserve 2018 Chardonnay | Old Mission Peninsula An engaging aroma of sautéed apples and spice wa s from the glass at rst swirl. The entry is rich yet well balanced and luminous, and the wine broadens with tasty avors of caramel apple, toasty oak, lemon curd, roasted nuts, and a pinch of nutmeg on the palate. Full bodied and gra fying through the lingering close. | SRP: $30 | Food pairing: Halibut cheeks beurre blanc | www.chateauchantal.com Good Harbor Vineyards | 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé | Leelanau Peninsula A delicate peachy-pink hue catches the eye, and a baske ul of fresh picked strawberries on the nose invites you into this snappy Rosé. It’s vitalizing on the palate with layers of Rainier cherries, juicy Black Beauty plums, Valencia oranges, and a pinch of herbs. Lively with crisp acidity carrying the wine to an upbeat, thirst quenching nish. | SRP: $19 | Food pairing: Watermelon gazpacho | www.goodharbor.com Chateau Chantal | 2019 Pinot Blanc | Old Mission Peninsula Fresh white fruits and lemon herbs on the nose are tantalizing and remain focused on the smoothly textured palate. Layers of nectarine, star fruit and crisp apple meld in harmony with blanched almonds and lemon verbena, pain ng a bright display of avors. The wine is well structured and boasts perfect balancing acidity as it heads to a luxurious last swallow. SRP: $18 | Food pairing: Fresh grilled sword sh | www.chateauchantal.com Aurora Cellars | 2020 Grüner Veltliner | Leelanau Peninsula This highly aroma c, nicely balanced Grüner Veltliner entrances the senses with its pleasing tropical fruit and citrus undertones on the nose and entry. Lively and full of personality as juicy layers of passion fruit, Kandy Lemondrop melon, peach, fresh crushed herbs, and lemon sorbet traverse brightly across the palate, and culminates in a vivid pop of lingering avors. SRP: $19 | Food pairing: Swiss cheese fondue | www.auroracellars.com 26 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page lfit iflfit ifft itlfiftf ifititit iflfif ttttififffit

Good Harbor Vineyards | Good Harbor Vineyards | 2018 Pinot Grigio, Leelanau Peninsula The mouthwatering citrus- nged aroma will turn you into a fast fan of Pinot Grigio, it soundly leaps from the glass. Flavors of lemon sherbet, crisp Bartle pears, subtle herbs, and feather-light meringue wrap around a brisk core of acidity. This wine is immaculately balanced and the lime-scented nish tops o the bright package with zes ness. SRP: $15 | Food pairing: Lemon thyme shrimp | www.goodharbor.com Bel Lago Vineyards and Winery | 2017 Auxerrois Moreno Reserve | Leelanau Peninsula This magni cent barrel fermented Auxerrois (a vi s vinifera grape more widely grown in the old world—France, Luxembourg and Germany) displays a tantalizing delicate oral aroma, and beau ful textural quali es. White fruits, Meyer lemon, sweet Mirabelle plum, and tropical melon avors interlink with lemon balm and minerality, enlivening the palate. It’s well balanced and invigora ng through the extended nale. | SRP: $16 | Food pairing: Bu ernut squash soup www.bellago.com Black Star Farms | 2019 Arcturos Pinot Gris | Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula Here is a sumptuous, richly textured Pinot Gris that simply shines. An expressive aroma of lemon-sprinkled pears wakes you right up and leads to a delectable entry. The swirling avors of Granny Smith apple, D’Anjou pear, citrusy elements, tropical fruit, minerality, and lemongrass are divine. Crisp acidity keeps the wine ideally balance beyond the nal lip- smacking drop. | SRP: $18 | Food pairing: Salmon carpaccio | www.blackstarfarms.com Chateau Fontaine | 2017 Grüner Veltliner | Leelanau Peninsula The alluring stone fruit aroma of this 100% stainless steel Grüner Veltliner immediately get the juices owing. The wine remains cap va ng and dynamic from the entry to the mid palate, through the prolonged nish. Pris nely balanced with mul -layers of star fruit, peach, apricot, tangerine, mineral notes, lime zest, crushed white peppercorns, and lemon verbena; dazzling. SRP: $20 | Food pairing: Ar choke leaves with crème fraiche/lemon/mustard dip www.chateaufontaine.com Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery | 2018 Reserve Merlot | Old Mission Peninsula It is o en said that Michigan white wines are the hot cket. Yes, they are indeed impressive, and this wine should convince you that red wines excel here, too. Take this brilliant Merlot, opening with an irresis ble aroma for example. Forrest berries and hints of cocoa on the nose stay well de ned and focused on entry. Blueberries, cassis, blackberries, hints of earth, tobacco, and underlying oak nuances coa ng the mouth are framed by rm tannins and ideal acidity, and the nish just keeps on delivering. | SRP: $40 | Food pairing: Roasted leg of lamb | www.brysestate.com Hawthorne Vineyards | 2016 Reserve Merlot | Old Mission Peninsula Here is another succulent, well-cra ed Michigan Merlot. This intensely fragranced wine struts forth with a concentrated black fruit, earthy aroma. Well integrated and layered with blueberries, warm olallieberry pie, shades of earth, sandalwood, and savory notes rolling gracefully across the palate. Smooth in texture and nicely structured with the fruit, approachable tannins, and acids in balance all the way through. | SRP: $35 | Food pairing: Savory crespelle www.hawthornevineyards.com ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at [email protected] 27 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED tf ififitifitittf itititifititlf iflf ttifitlfititlfitif itffifttit

The Grapes of Ralph A timeless classic collectible created by British illustrator Ralph Steadman. Best known for his friendship and collaboration with Hunter S. Thompson, Steadman was an avid oenophile. Paperback available at: amazon.com | MSRP: $17.99- $111. Silicone Glass Lids Protect Your Beverages - these drink covers for glasses keep undesirable outdoor and indoor elements out of your drinking glasses for worry-free drinking wherever you are. Available at amazon.com | MSRP: $16.95. Ski Bunny Wine Jacket With Winter just around the corner, keep your wine cozy in style. Whether you are giving a bottle away or keeping it for yourself, decorate it with this ski bunny bottle cover. It is the perfect addition to a delicious bottle of red that will keep you warm all winter long. Available at https://tinyurl.com/ 3erkxmnr | MSRP: $25.12. 28 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED ◀︎◀︎◀︎