MU - Winter 2021

michigan Uncorked VOL. 3 NO. 4 WINTER 2021 • LMC ALUMNI • THE REDS OF MICHIGAN • COLLABORATION AIDS RECOVERY • STELLAR TERROIR • GREAT LAKES GRÜNER • HARD (TO FIND) LABOR

CONTENTS www.michiganuncorked.com 4 LMC ALUMNI Lake Michigan College (LMC) in Benton Harbor offers a year-long program to earn a wine and viticulture associate degree and its alumni can be found throughout the U.S. 8 THE REDS OF MICHIGAN If you are looking for an award-winning Michigan red to serve over the holidays or simply to enjoy during the winter, see our list, with descriptions, links and pricing. 11 COLLABORATION AIDS RECOVERY As Michigan wineries return to serving guests in-person, teamwork and collaboration have become a critical part of reestablishing a customer base. 16 STELLAR TERROIR As more winegrowers practice biodynamics, what are we to make of the ancient beliefs about celestial influences in vineyards and wine cellars? 21 GREAT LAKES GRÜNER What if there was a wine with the acidity of Sauvignon Blanc, the creaminess of Pinot Gris, and the ageability, quality, and depth of a White Burgundy? Welcome to Grüner Veltliner. 23 HARD (TO FIND) LABOR “Help wanted” signs were ubiquitous at service and hospitality businesses this past summer. Even wineries, which typically don’t have as much trouble attracting employees (fringe benefits: wine), felt the crunch. 25 BETWEEN THE VINES Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines. Cover: 2016 Lake Michigan College graduate Tana Cole stands beside an ancient vine of Carignan planted in 1900 at Jessie’s Grove Winery in Lodi, California. Cole is currently production enologist at Vintage Wine Estates in Hopland, California. Photo credit: Jessie’s Grove Vineyard. 2 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED

MESSAGE FROM THE EDITOR t Lake Michigan College (LMC) in Benton Harbor students can earn a wine and viticulture technology associate in applied science degree in as little as one year. In this issue of Michigan Uncorked, courtesy of Jessica Zimmer, we follow the progress of some of these students who have gone on to bigger and better things. Jim Rink, yes that’s me, took a look at this year’s winners in the rst ever Judgement of Michigan wine evaluation and presents a list of award-winning red wines for your holiday/winter enjoyment. The list includes wine tasting notes, web links and pricing. Jessica Zimmer does double duty and has written an article on how teamwork and collaboration have proven helpful for Michigan wineries in recovering from the Covid19 pandemic. And Sharon Flesher has written a companion piece on how the labor shortage has a ected Michigan wineries. In this issue, we welcome a new contributor: Jack Costa, who is a big fan of Grüner Veltliner, a less-known Austrian grape, but an important import to Michigan’s wheelhouse. Roger Morris returns after a brief hiatus to talk about terroir in the stars. Are there celestial in uences that a ect grapes and, ultimately, wine? Some winemakers swear that the biodynamics of space do have an e ect. And last, but never least, our very own in-house sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines. Cheers, Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Jack Costa, Anna Maria Giambanco DiPietro, Sharon Flesher, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Jim Rink, Jessica Zimmer michiganUncorked Vol. 3 No. 4 Winter 2021 fffflf ffif

LMC ALUMNI By Jessica Zimmer L ake Michigan College (LMC) in Benton Harbor o ers a year-long program to earn a wine and viticulture technology associate degree, but its alumni can be found throughout the U.S. Graduates say the main attraction of the program, established in 2014, is that it gives students a holistic education in everything from terroir to marketing. The chance to meet other soon-to-be professionals in the wine industry is an invaluable experience. “I found the program was full of people who were changing careers, like me. Originally I wanted to learn more about wine as a hobby. As Bryanna Cramer, assistant winemaker at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in Dundee, NY. Photo courtesy of Herman J. Wiemer Vineyard 4 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ff

the chance to do what I loved,” said Bryanna Cramer, a 2018 graduate. Cramer is now an assistant winemaker at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in Dundee, New York. Tony Zawierucha, also a 2018 LMC graduate, said the coursework was a good balance of practical and theoretical knowledge. “The program prepared me for crush as well as how to properly treat wine. I am glad the program taught me traits to value when planting in a warm, humid climate, which we have here, at my new winery,” said Zawierucha. Zawierucha, who is currently winemaker and vineyard manager at Herrera Vineyards in Dobson, North Carolina, said Herrera is currently putting in Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng, Albariño, Merlot, Marselan, and Mencia wine grapes. “All of (these) either have nice, thick skins, loose clusters, or a combination of the two, making them better suited for humidity,” said Zawierucha. Small classes, big connections One of the attractions of LMC’s program is that there are 12 to 16 students in every class. Tana Cole, a 2016 graduate, said this helped her get to know other students well. “It was interesting to see where people came Tony Zawierucha from. In my class, there was a real estate developer, and in the class behind me, there was a physician. Yet everyone was there to learn about wine,” said Cole, the production enologist at Vintage Wine Estates in Hopland, California. Cole said she worked as a ight attendant for United Airlines and as an auctioneer of industrial equipment before joining the wine industry. “When you start a program like LMC’s, you should make sure you can get as much experience in the industry as possible. Come out to California and help with harvest for a big winery. Go out of the country to visit wineries abroad. LMC will teach you so much of what else you need, including how to write a business plan and perform necessary lab tests,” said Cole. Analisa Leppanen, owner of Golden Muse Winery in Baroda, Michigan, said she came to the wine industry after years of working as a professor and art historian. “I took nine classes at LMC between 2017 and 2019. They o ered me a new direction in life. I passed the Level 1 Introductory Sommelier Examination and am now studying for the Level 2 Certi ed Sommelier Exam,” said Leppanen. 5 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page ifff lf

Leppanen added the community college classes are not basic. “They are practical and interesting, even for a professional who has earned a doctorate in another eld,” said Leppanen. Lessons in managing a winery One of the unique aspects of learning at LMC is that the school is home to The Great Lakes Wine Institute, the only commercial teaching winery in the Midwest. The Welch Center for Wine & Viticulture contains a wine tasting room and a facility to learn about all the steps of the winemaking process. “… make sure you can get as much experience in the industry as possible.” Cole said watching and being part of LMC’s winemaking process was a good rst step to learning how to work with some of the oldest zinfandels in California. “Since I rst watched the process at LMC, I have been picking up samples to blend. The wines are high quality, so I’ve made sales on the open market. When I joined Jessie’s Grove Winery, where I was formerly a winemaker, I realized many of the wines there were from estate ancient vines,” said Cole. Cole said Jessie’s Grove de ned ancient vines as vines over 100 years old. Wines made from such grapes usually have deep, complex avors. Tony Zawierucha Cole said one of her favorite wine blends from Jessie’s Grove Winery was the 2018 Jessie’s Grove Ancient Vine Zinfandel from the Royal Tee Vineyard. This blend contains wines made from zinfandel, Carignan, Flame Tokay, Black Prince, and Mission grapes. This blend is a eld blend, which means all of the grapes have grown in the same vineyard together. The grapes have grown together for approximately 130 years. Cramer said LMC also taught her how to blend wines well, “particularly red blends.” “I enjoy the creativity and guring out what’s going to be reserve for the year,” said Cramer. The term “reserve” means wine that is of a higher quality than usual or wine that is aged before being sold. 6 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED if if lfif if if if

“Every step at LMC was bene cial,” said Cramer. “I got to know the Lake Michigan Shore AVA, which is full of farmers and winemakers. I learned how to deal with wet and humid summers and massive ooding. We had a very wet summer the rst year I was out here (in New York). Coming straight from class, I recognized the signs. I was prepared to identify and sort out (grapes a ected by) sour rot (a disorder that breaks down ripening berries and requires that they not be used for wine),” said Cramer. Leppanen advised that students who come to LMC’s program should be patient with themselves and the material. “The rst step is saying you want a new direction and getting to know other people interested in wine. After the program, your next step may be more advanced. I found that after taking classes and coming to be around sommeliers, I wanted to open my own winery. I’m currently determining what types of wine I want to make. That’ll probably be dry reds and whites made from fruit from the Lake Michigan Shore AVA (American Viticultural Area),” said Leppanen. Zawierucha said he believes LMC’s program ensured that he would not be “pigeonholed as a barrel ller.” “What I learned at LMC, from dealing with crush to yeast inonculations (adding active yeast cultures to the juice to begin fermentation), got me used to not doing the same thing every day. I aimed to understand why wineries do what they do, to be mindful and present during the chaos of harvest. (I also learned to) taste, taste, taste,” said Zawierucha. Zawierucha added applying this understanding to Herrera Vineyards’ current marketing strategy has aided him in continuing a relationship with guests through the pandemic. Tana Cole and Professor Mike Moyer “Last year, Herrera Vineyards made the decision to renovate the tasting room and restaurant and the property overall. Learning how to reach out to customers is something I began to understand while working at a specialty butcher's market, and further re ned during my time at Dablon Winery & Vineyards as a tasting room consultant while enrolled at LMC. LMC's proximity wineries allowed me to learn about the industry while working in the industry,” said Zawierucha. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a news reporter, attorney, and educator based in northern California. She has worked in journalism for over 20 years. She covers  a wide variety of industries, including alcoholic beverage production, transportation, law, and the arts. 7 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED if if if ffiflfif

The reds of Winter by Jim Rink BY MADELEINE VEDEL I n the midst of a stark Michigan winter, nothing quite soothes the soul like a good re and a robust, Michigan red wine. If you are one of the few holdouts who still maintains that there are no good red Michigan wines, I can only refer you to the results of the rst annual Judgement of Michigan wine evaluation, conducted in Benton Harbor on Aug. 3. A collaboration between the Michigan Wine Collaborative and Lake Michigan College, the Judgement of Michigan brought together 21 judges from around the state and country to evaluate over 350 Michigan wines. From these 350 wines, two reds earned double gold and 19 earned gold (don’t hold me to the math). And, actually, of the 33 gold recipients, 17 were red and 16 were white or rosé. That is, if you count cherry wine as red. At any rate, if you are looking for an award-winning Michigan red to serve over the holidays or simply to enjoy during the winter, I will share these medal winners and, when possible, tasting notes provided by the winery: DOUBLE GOLD Cherry Creek Cellars | Cabernet Sauvignon | NV | 100% Cabernet Sauvignon | https://cherrycreekwine.com St. Julian Winery | Solera Cream Sherry | NV | Forti ed Butterscotch & pecan aromas; A sweet entry leads to a rounded, lush taste of hazelnut & almond. Our Solera Cream Sherry has garnered more awards than any other wine in our winery’s history. | $13.99 | https://www.stjulian.com/store/solera-cream-sherry 8 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page if ifif

GOLD Bel Lago | Cherry | NV | 65% Balaton 35% Montmorency A avorful blend of Balaton and Montmorency cherries that captures the essence of Northern Michigan. | $12 | https://bellago.com/wines/cherry-wine/ Black Star Farms | Isidor’s Choice Terrace Red | 2017 | 34% Teroldego 26% Cab Franc 22% Lagrein 18% Merlot Think unique avors like wild blueberries dusted with white pepper. If enjoyed young, this wine will o er broad and complex dark fruit avors, plenty of spice and girth that craves big food avors. | $46 | https://store.blackstarfarms.com/2017-isidors-choice-terrace-red-p80.aspx Brys Estate | Brys Estate Cabernet Franc | 2017 | 100% Cabernet Franc https://www.brysestate.com/blog/Cabernet-Franc-Wins-Je erson-Cup Chateau Chantal | Cerise Noir | NV | 80% Pinot Noir 20 % Montmorency Cherry Cerise Noir begins with partially fermented Pinot Noir grapes and is then infused with cherry brandy for an exceptionally silky, rich taste sensation. Enjoy with fresh fruits, chocolate tru es, or all on its own! | $35 | https://shop.chateauchantal.com/prod-381103/Cerise-Noir-Port.html Cherry Creek Cellars | Ruby Rabelo | NV | 100% Frontenac An estate-grown Port. Named for the Rabelo boats that traditionally ferried the large casks of Port down the Douro River in Portugal, this Ruby-style Port has some bright fruity character, but with a bold richness that lingers. | $28 | https://cherrycreekwine.com Cherry Creek Cellars | Montage | NV | 75% Cabernet Sauvignon 25% Chancellor A pleasant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chancellor Noir. Great legs and tannin, with notes of cherry on the nose. Round mouth feel with a lasting nish. | $21 | https://cherrycreekwine.com Detroit Vineyards | Frais | 2020 | 100% Cabernet Franc Sourced from a hillside vineyard just east of Traverse City right on the shores of Grand Traverse Bay. Fermented carbonically and 100% whole cluster. Pressed to neutral French Oak barrels. Raspberry Tart. Tobacco.| $32 | www.detroitvineyards.com Detroit Vineyards | EMCEE | 2018 | 60% Merlot 40% Cabernet Franc Aged in French oak barrels. Lake Michigan Shore AVA. | $32 | www.detroitvineyards.com Detroit Vineyards | Blau | NV | 100% Blaufränkisch Domaine Berrien Vineyard. Lake Michigan Shore. 100% carbonically fermented and whole cluster. Foot treaded twice daily during fermentation. Pressed to neutral French Oak barrels and aged 7 months before bottling. Plums. Bramble. Pop rocks. Cigar box. | $32 | www.detroitvineyards.com 9 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page if lff ff lflffflf lf

Fenn Valley Vineyards | Classic Port | NV | 48% Chancellor 48% Chambourcin 4% Frontenac Classic Port is a light port made in the traditional port method. This “northern grown port” exhibits strong fruit character and a lighter body that makes it perfect with sweet dessert foods such as chocolate or raspberry based confections and tortes, or with soft cheeses such as a ne brie. | $18 | https://www.fennvalley.com/product/classic-port/ Karma Vista Vineyards | Reserve Syrah | 2017 | 100% Syrah Lots of black pepper. Best vintage of the decade. Just the right amount of hot and dry. | $24 | https://www.karmavista.com/new- page Lemon Creek | Shiraz | 2017 | 100% Shiraz A distinctly Michigan Shiraz. Spicy aromas and avors of predominately dark cherry are sustained through the mid-palate and nish. This Shiraz nishes balanced and long, leaving you wanting more. | $34 | https://lemoncreekwinery.vinespring.site/purchase Sandhill Crane | Abrazo | NV | 51% Chancellor 49% Cabernet Sauvignon A silky, soft, o -dry red blend with avors of spicy black cherry, cocoa, and black raspberry. Abrazo was developed to help thank the Cascades Humane Society for rescuing Rusty. (pictured on the label). | $25 | https://tinyurl.com/3994tpw3 Sandhill Crane | Blackcat | NV | 85% Cabernet Sauvignon 15% Merlot Fuller in body, this wine is lush on the palate with velvety tannins and dark fruit tones. It has a long nish with avors of black pepper and dried fruits. Balanced with cleansing acidity, this wine will age well. | $25 | https://tinyurl.com/3994tpw3 Shady Lane | Merlot | 2017 | 100% Merlot A long, warm season brought perfect conditions for Merlot to see optimal ripening. Harvested in mid November, this fruit developed bright aromatics and soft, supple tannins. Finished in French Oak for approximately 10 months the 2017 Merlot has a velvety texture and notes of vanilla, ripe cherry and cocoa. | $26 | https://www.shadylanecellars.com/shop/catalog/ Tabone Vineyards | Estate Reserve Red Wine | 2018 | 40% Baco Noir 40% Marechal Foch 10% Leon Millot 10% Chancellor A dry red wine blend of Baco Noir, Maréchal Foch, Leon Millot and Chancellor grapes aged for 18 months prior to bottling. Fruit- forward, medium-bodied and smooth. | $28 | https://tabonevineyards.com/order White Pine Winery | Mirage Reserve | 2018 | 100% Chambourcin Chambourcin is a deep colored and aromatic red wine grape that is also a “teinturier” grape. Many producers utilize oak in the winemaking process to soften acidity, which can be quite high in cooler regions. Chambourcin produces a wine that is typically high in acidity with modest tannins and strong avors that can be complemented with the addition of oak aging. In the glass, you can expect avors of black cherry, red fruit, herbaceous notes, black pepper, and even chocolate. https://www.whitepinewinery.com/index.php/wines 10 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED lflf lfif lfff ififlf if

Collaboration Aids Recovery A by Jessica Zimmer s Michigan wineries return to serving guests in-person, teamwork has become a critical part of reestablishing a customer base. Wineries and other alcoholic beverage producers are working together to create new products. In addition, wineries are sharing more of their beverages with boutique wine shops and grocery stores. This has built brand awareness and allowed customers to become familiar with their products. “Other changes include the restaurant industry continuing to provide smaller, more distanced dining experiences. Wineries are assisting them by doing outreach and sharing exclusive wines. This gives restaurants a chance to better inform their guests about Michigan wines,” said Emily Dockery, director of the Michigan Wine Collaborative (MWC). Another concern during the pandemic is the labor shortage. Dockery said wineries are working together on this issue. “There is competition between wineries. Yet MWC members are encouraging recruitment and broadening awareness of the wine industry. Encouraging recent graduates and people making career changes to consider Michigan wine will help us keep up with production and demand for years to come,” said Dockery. Jenelle Jagmin, director of Michigan Craft Beverage Council, said during the pandemic, producers have lifted one another up by 11 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page



















GREAT LAKES GRÜNER by Jack Costa W hat if there was a wine with the acidity of Sauvignon Blanc, the creaminess of Pinot Gris, and the ageability, quality, and depth of a White Burgundy? And what if this wine could also pair well with almost any food? Well, you’re in luck. There is such a wine. It’s name: Grüner Veltliner, and it’s being grown in Michigan. My introduction to this premium white wine started long before my legal drinking age arrived. While other seventeen-year-olds were numbing their pallets on Budweiser and Coors Light, I happened to stumble upon my rst real job at a Burgundian style vineyard tucked deep within the rolling hills of Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley; Reustle Prayer Rock Stephen Reustle, in 2005 had been the rst Vineyards. Unknown to me at the time, my new boss, wine in the United States. His estate-grown Grüner winemaker to commercially produce Grüner Veltliner devoted followers to the Austrian grape. Needless Veltliner soon began to accrue countless awards and not be avoided. to say, my personal love a air with the grape could \"From the very rst vintage, I was immediately impressed with the fruit and crisp acidity of the Austrian wine, and have been overwhelmed by the positive response of our Wine Club members and wine competition results. We won a Chairman's Unanimous Gold at Riverside International, as well as a Double Platinum in the Wine Press NW \"Best of the Best\" competition. This con rmed to me the appeal.” — Stephen Reustle versatility of Grüner and its unmistakable Since its debut in the U.S., Grüner plantings have continued to increase, with the grape now being grown in Washington, California, New York, and Michigan. Though still relatively small in total acreage when compared to other popular white grapes such as Riesling and Chardonnay, Grüner’s footprint in the world of premium white wines continues to grow and captivate professional and novice wine drinkers alike. It was winemaker Sean O’Keefe who became one of the notable Grüner Veltliner pioneers in Michigan, and though it remains overshadowed by the mighty Riesling, other dedicated Michigan winemakers have begun discovering the Austrian grape's unique potential. Gruner, much like Tom Hanks, can adapt to almost any role, which makes it well suited for growing in the temperamental Great Lakes region. This exibility allows it to be grown well 21 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page lf ifif ffifif

in both intermediate and cool climates, which is a box Grüner Veltliner. A bit sneaky it may have been, but later, when the Michigan’s upper peninsula can easily check. Given that judging panel had completed their overall ranking of the wines Michigan grows Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Gamay, submitted to the entire competition, six of the top eight wines all of which are cool-climate varieties, it seemed reasonable to were Grüner Veltliners. The competition clearly shows us the suggest that Michigan would be capable of producing unique potential of Grüner Veltliner, potential that should not be styles of Grüners which re ect its cooler climate and lower heat underestimated. units. Such cool climate Grüner can be created with higher acidity, lighter body, and generally more delicate avors. So if you like Sauvignon Blanc, adore Riesling, or love Chardonnay Sometimes winemakers will even craft the grape into sparkling what are you waiting for? The Golden Age of Grüner Veltliner is and sweet dessert wines. here. Grüner’s avor pro le often exhibits citrus fruit, white pepper, ABOUT THE AUTHOR (yes white pepper) grapefruit, and even green tea, while older vintages tend to display richer fruits such as ripe pineapple, Often asked if he’s even old enough to drink, apricot, and occasionally even petrol! Jack is a writer, educator, and professional wine judge. The Oregon native studied winemaking Grüner’s depth, elegance, and spicy nish, can resemble a under mentor Stephen Reustle and premium White Burgundy/Chardonnay. And as mentioned, occasionally contributes to the award winning Grüner is fully capable of aging like any great Riesling, blog Wine Folly. sometimes aging gracefully in the bottle for 30 to 40 years. Additionally, Grüner’s signature thread of acidity, reminiscent of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, helps to enhance the various avors of a wide variety of foods; Pad Thai, curry, oysters, spicy chicken, asparagus, salads, cured meats...the list is endless. What can’t Grüner pair with? Possibly Spam...No, it actually would. But don't take my word for it. Sometimes it's best to let the wine speak for itself. It was in 2002, during the VieVinun Wine Exhibition in Vienna, Austria, that Grüner Veltliner had its Bottle Shock moment. During the exhibition, an international judging panel was assembled to blind taste premium wines from the world's top wine regions. Jan Paulson, a dentist turned wine professional, was charged with nding the best Grüners to compete in this international competition. It was during the Chardonnay tasting that, unbeknownst to the judges, four Grüner Veltliners had been introduced into the ight. As one could imagine, there was a bit of an uproar when it was revealed that the rst place Chardonnay was in fact a 22 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED iflf if lfif iflf lflf

Hard (to find) labor By Sharon Flesher Type to enter text M elissa and Wendy Middaugh are new to wine-making, Black Star Farms Continued on next page but they came to it with an advantage: their own labor force. The couple purchased Northern Sun Winery near Escanaba in December 2020, when snow covered the vineyards and the tasting room was relatively quiet. They were fortunate to retain the winery’s existing crew, but when summer tourist tra c hit, things got tight. 23 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED iff

“We’ve made it through by asking our family and friends to jump in at our wine tasting room,” said Melissa Middaugh. The couple purchased the winery as a “generational project to pass on to our children,” so getting help from the kids came naturally. “Help wanted” signs were ubiquitous at service and hospitality businesses this past summer. Even wineries, which typically don’t have as much trouble attracting employees (fringe bene ts: wine), felt the crunch, and not all have a big family to ll in the gaps. But wine making is all about exibility and adaptation, from dealing with the unpredictability of weather in the vineyard to responding to changing consumer tastes in the market. So it should be no surprise that Michigan wineries converted the latest challenge of the pandemic into an opportunity. At wineries large and small throughout the state, the tight labor market prompted a more-with-less approach and investments in experienced, core sta . “The service is at an all-time high,” said Nick Hartmann, marketing director for the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail. “We’re all used to that in this industry, taking some punches and nding a way to get up.” Leelanau wineries already were experiencing sta ng challenges due to the area’s high cost of housing and large retiree demographic. Maintaining a positive customer experience in the Covid Era required new procedures to accommodate social distancing with limited sta . “It’s handling customers who want a certain level of attention and now may nd their experience to be more rushed, or more on hold, or maybe they’ve had to wait in line,” said Gabe Marzoni, marketing director at Leelanau Cellars in Omena. “We try to kill them with kindness.” Leelanau Cellars has enhanced its training procedures for customer service. To attract and retain sta , the winery increased pay and o ered retention and referral bonuses. And, like many wineries in the state, it has introduced a reservation system so that customers will arrive when sta are available. The move to reservations at tasting rooms will likely outlast the pandemic as wineries everywhere are reporting a preference for it. Not only do guests receive a more personal experience than when they could ‘belly-up-to-the-bar,” the tasting rooms are able to function more e ciently. “We know who is coming in and how big of a sta we need, which is much better than it used to be when we had to have more people so we could err on the high side,” said Bill Schopf, owner of Dablon Vineyards & Winery near Baroda, noting that table reservations also bring higher tips for tasting room sta . Providing guests with an incredible tasting experience is crucial for wineries seeking to elevate the perception of Michigan wine. Dablon, which produces about 10,000 cases a year from 17 estate-grown varietals, including some rarely grown in Michigan, invested heavily in its tasting experience to enhance the pleasure in the glass. “We want to show the world that southwest Michigan is one of the places in the world where you can grow world-class wines, and our tasting room is critical to that,” said Schopf. While the retail, or tasting room, end of the operation may be bearing the brunt of sta ng shortages this year, the impact has also been felt in the vineyards, especially in a season with great weather and high fruit productivity. Again, wineries have adjusted. At Dablon, for example, Schopf said his experienced vineyard workers took the lead and worked longer hours to compress the harvest schedule, taking advantage of daylight and good weather and making up for a lack of extra seasonal workers. “We were impacted, but you might say we made some lemonade out of a lemon situation,” said Schopf. ____________________ Previously a journalist for United Press International (UPI), the News and Observer (Raleigh NC) and Congressional Quarterly, Sharon Flesher now writes independently from Traverse City, Mich. She is an enthusiastic student of wine and she reads too much. Find her on the web at http://twofemmes.com/ 24 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED iff ffff iffffffff if ffiff if ff lf ifif

Between the Vines Ellen Landis, CS, CSW T his year’s pres gious American Fine Wine Compe on held at The Chaplin School of Hospitality & Tourism Management at Florida Interna onal University in North Miami was once again lled with sparkling medals for wines produced by Michigan wineries. Highlights of wines securing Gold and higher awards include: French Valley Vineyard | 2018 French Valley Dry Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula It was Double Gold and Best of Class honors (95 pts) for this spirited and pure Dry Riesling. Wet stone, white peaches, nectarines, an edge of minerality, and a twist of lime peel framed by brilliant acidity invigorate the palate, and the zesty nish lingers on and on. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Crab claws w/lemon bu er sauce | www.fvvineyard.com Bel Lago Vineyards & Winery | 2017 Auxerrois | Leelanau Peninsula This brilliantly balanced stainless steel aged Auxerrois earned a Double Gold (94 pts). Aromas of white blossoms and citrus fruits lead to a burst of fresh squeezed lemons, crisp apples, minerality, mandarin oranges, and hints of lemongrass melding harmoniously through the bright close. SRP: $16 | Food pairing: Minced clam dip | www.bellago.com Bel Lago Vineyards & Winery | 2016 Cabernet Franc | Leelanau Peninsula A Double Gold (94 pts) was bestowed upon this expressive, complex, oral-scented Cab Franc. Mul layered with well- de ned avors of Montmorency cherries, graphite, mocha-dusted blackberries, savory spice, a touch of earth, blood orange, and subtle oak nuances. It reveals a smooth texture, re ned tannins, and a long-las ng nish; cellar worthy. SRP: $48 | Food pairing: Braised lamb chops | www.bellago.com Brengman Brothers | 2020 Timberlee Vineyard Chenin Blanc | Leelanau Peninsula This lively Chenin Blanc, which gained a Gold medal (90 pts), kicks o with a pleasurable jasmine scented aroma c. On the palate it is mouth lling and creamy with notes of passion fruit, Comice pears, a hint of ginger, and chamomile, and the nish is persistent. SRP: $30 | Food pairing: Classic swiss cheese fondue | www.brengmanbrothers.com Brengman Brothers | 2019 Le Bank | Leelanau Peninsula A Gold medal (90 pts) was awarded to this complex Bordeaux style blend. Aromas of dark berries and leather rise from the glass (decant if imbibing now). Concentrated with cassis, blackberries and purple plums marrying earthiness, tobacco, olive tapenade, and savory notes. Tightly wound now, yet its rm backbone of tannins, deep core of fruit, and nice level of acidity promise age-worthiness. SRP: $50 | Food pairing: Braised sirloin ps | www.brengmanbrothers.com Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery | 2019 Cab/Merlot | Old Mission Peninsula This stylish, Gold medal (90 pts) winning 50%/50% blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot displays a lovely oral aroma. Interlacing on the velvety palate are blueberries, wild raspberries, black currants, hints of earth, graphite, well-managed oak, and crushed herbs. The wine showcases supple tannins and elegance through the nal drop. SRP: $26 | Food pairing: Spice encrusted pork tenderloin | www.brysestate.com 25 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED Continued on next page iflf itif tf ififitff ifitiflfifitlf ttif ifitititit

Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery | 2020 Riesling Reserve | Old Mission Peninsula Summer stone fruits and river rock elements on the nose are awakening and shout out Riesling. This Double Gold winner (94 pts) is equally compelling on the palate, with succulent peaches, citrusy accents, nectarines, a pinch of herbs, and mineral notes wrapped around a brisk spine of acidity. Impeccably balanced through the invigora ng, lengthy nish. SRP: $20 | Food pairing: Crab thermidor | www.brysestate.com Winery at Black Star Farms | 2019 Arcturos Dry Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula/Old Mission Peninsula This dry, streamlined Riesling earning a Double Gold (94 pts) medal shows o an invi ng perfumed aroma of Japanese honeysuckle. Silky in texture with ne balance, it decorates the palate with energizing avors of Honeycrisp apple, Asian pear, a sugges on of lemon verbena, seashell minerality, and lime zest lingering beyond the last sip. SRP: $15 | Food pairing: Mild blue cheese cream pu s | www.blackstarfarms.com The quality of wines across Michigan continues to reach higher levels Winery at Black Star Farms | 2019 Pinot Gris | Old Mission Peninsula/Leelanau Peninsula A delicate spring oral bouquet greets the nose with this regal Pinot Gris, which merited a Double Gold (94 pts) award. Tropical guava, Meyer lemon, nectarine, lime sorbet, and a trace of minerality grace the palate. It has a rich mouth feel while maintaining lively balancing acidity, and the nish is magical. SRP: $15 | Food pairing: Lemon chicken piccata | www.blackstarfarms.com St. Julian Wine Company | 2020 La Crescent | Lake Michigan Shore Fragrant orals on the nose are invi ng at rst whi of this Double Gold winning (94 pts) La Crescent. It is a ne example of wine cra ed of this cold-hardy hybrid grape. Flavors of honeysuckle, fresh pineapple, citrus blossom and tropical melon entwine, and lemon-lime accents peek through on the vivid nish. SRP: $16 | Food pairing: Bu ernut squash riso o | www.stjulian.com St. Julian Wine Company 2020 Braganini Reserve O Dry Riesling | Lake Michigan Shore Capturing a Gold medal (90 pts) is this mouth watering Riesling boas ng a warm peach pie aroma. Juicy peaches, lemon drops, apricot jam, honeycomb and Crispin apples paint a colorful blast of avors on the palate, and the nish is bright and li ed. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Garlic bu er shrimp scampi | www.stjulian.com And that’s not all. This highly respected compe on resulted in addi onal Gold and Silver medals for wines made in Michigan. The quality of wines across Michigan con nues to reach higher levels and gain increased visibility and accolades from wine professionals and savvy wine a cionados near and far. Check out all the results at www.american newinecompe on.org to discover other worthy gems from “The Great Lakes State.” Congrats to each and every winning vintner, winemaker and grape grower. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com 26 | MICHIGAN UNCORKED ititififitititit tttfiflfit ff ttttiftfifffifitlf iflf ffitlfifitff ifit

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