[Lonely Planet] Korea

Tr a nsp o rt H i t ch i n g400 even in the countryside, to way of getting around these traffic jams, looking for a make hitching unnecessary. major cities, and since signs parking space or taking eva- and station names are in sive action. Impatient and Local Transport English as well as Korean, it careless drivers are a major is foreigner-friendly and easy hazard and traffic rules are Bus to use. frequently ignored. Driving in rural areas or Local city buses provide a Taxi on islands such as Jeju-do frequent and inexpensive or Ganghwado can be much service (from ₩1150 a trip, Taxis are numerous almost smoother but public trans- irrespective of how far you everywhere and fares are port is so good that there’s travel), and although rural inexpensive. Every taxi has little incentive to sit behind a buses provide a less frequent a meter that works on a steering wheel. service, many run on an distance basis but switches hourly or half-hourly basis. to a time basis when the Road Rules Put the fare in the glass box vehicle is stuck in a traffic next to the driver – make jam. Tipping is not a local ¨¨Vehicles drive on the right sure you have plenty of custom and is not expected side of the road. ₩1000 notes because the or necessary. ¨¨The driver and front- machines only give coins in seat passenger must wear change. Ilban (regular taxis) cost seatbelts. around ₩2400 for the first ¨¨Drunk drivers receive The main problem with 2km with a 20% surcharge heavy fines, and victims of local buses is finding and from midnight to 4am, while road accidents are often paid getting on the right bus – the pricier mobeom (deluxe a big sum by drivers wanting bus timetables, bus-stop taxis; black with a yellow top) to avoid a court case. names and destination signs that exist in some cities cost on buses are rarely in Eng- around ₩4500 for the first Hitching lish, and bus drivers don’t 3km but with no late-night speak English. Writing your surcharge. Accepting a lift anywhere destination in big hangeul has an element of risk so we (Korean phonetic alphabet) Any expressway tolls are don’t recommend it. letters on a piece of paper added to the fare. In the will be helpful. Local tourist countryside check the fare Hitching is not a local information centres usually first as there are local quirks, custom and there is no par- have ­English-speaking staff; such as surcharges or a fixed ticular signal for it. However, these are the best places rate to out-of-the-way places Korea is relatively crime- to find out which local bus with little prospect of a re- free, so if you get stuck in goes where, and where to turn fare. a rural area, stick out your pick it up. thumb and the chances are Since few taxi drivers that some kind person will Subway speak English, plan how to give you a lift. Drivers often communicate with the driver; go out of their way to help Six cities have a subway if you have a mobile phone f­ oreigners. system: Seoul, Busan, Dae- you can also use the %1330 jeon, Daegu, Gwangju and tourist advice line to help Normally bus services are Incheon. The subway (also with interpretation. Ask to frequent and cheap enough, referred to as the metro) be dropped off at a nearby is a cheap and convenient landmark if the driver doesn’t understand what you’re say- T-MONEY CARDS ing or doesn’t know where it is. It can be useful to write Bus, subway, taxi and train fares can all be paid using down your destination or a the rechargeable, touch-and-go T-Money Card (http:// nearby landmark in hangeul eng.t-money.co.kr); the card provides a ₩100 discount on a piece of paper. per trip. The basic card can be bought for a nonrefunda- ble ₩3000 at any subway-station booth, bus kiosks and Train convenience stores displaying the T-Money logo across the country. Reload it with credit at any of the aforemen- South Korea has an excellent tioned places and get money refunded that hasn’t been but not comprehensive train used (up to ₩20,000 minus a processing fee of ₩500) network operated by KoRail at subway machines and participating convenience (www.letskorail.com, %1544 stores before you leave. 7788). Trains are clean, com- fortable and punctual, and just about every station has a sign in Korean and English. Trains are the best option for long-distance travel.

401 If you plan to travel by than saemaul trains (and Play), at train stations and train a lot over a short period KTX 1st class is another many travel agencies. Seat consider buying a ‘KR pass’ – 40%). Saemaul 1st class is reservations are sensible and see the website for details. 22% more than the stand- necessary on weekends, holi- ard saemaul fare. Saemaul days and other busy times. Classes standard fares are 50% more than mugunghwa class. KTX Train Passes Transport Train The fastest train is the Korea tickets are discounted 7% to Train Express (KTX). A grade 20% if you buy them seven Foreigners can buy a KoRail down are saemaeul services, to 30 days before departure. Pass (www.letskorail.com) at which also only stop in major Tickets are discounted 15% overseas travel agencies or towns. Mugunghwa trains from Monday to Friday, and online; it offers unlimited rail are comfortable and fast but ipseokpyo (standing tickets) travel (including KTX servic- stop more often. are discounted 15% to 30% es) for one (₩66,900), three depending on the length of (₩93,100), five (₩139,700) Many trains have a train the journey; with a standing or seven (₩168,400) con- cafe where you not only buy ticket, you are allowed to secutive days. Children (four drinks and snack foods but sit on any unoccupied seat. to 12 years) receive a 50% also surf the internet, play Children travel for half price discount, and youths (13 to computer games, even sing any time; over 65-year-olds 25 years old) receive a 20% karaoke. If a train is stand- receive a 30% discount Mon- discount. ing-room only, hanging out in day to Friday. the train cafe for the journey However, distances in Ko- is the best way to go. Reservations rea are not great, and trains don’t go everywhere, so the Costs The railway ticketing system pass is unlikely to save you is computerised and you can much, if any, money unless The full range of discounts is buy tickets up to a month in you plan to shuttle more fre- complicated and confusing. advance online, on the Korail quently than a Lonely Planet For fares and schedules see app (Korean only; from the researcher back and forth the Korail website (www. Apple App Store or Google across the country. letskorail.com). KTX trains are 40% more expensive

402 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Language Korean belongs to the Ural-Altaic language How are you? an·nyŏng ha·se·yo family and is spoken by around 80 million 안녕하세요? people. The standard language of South Ko- rea is based on the dialect of Seoul. Fine, thanks. And you? 네. 안녕하세요? ne an·nyŏng ha·se·yo Korean script, hangeul, is simple and accessible, as each character represents a What is your name? sŏng·ha·mŭl yŏ·tchŏ·bwa· sound of its own. There are a number of com- 성함을 여쭤봐도 do peting Romanisation systems in use today doélk·ka·yo for hangeul. Since 2000, the government has 될까요? been changing road signs to reflect the most recent Romanisation system, so you may My name is … encounter signs, maps and tourist literature 제 이름은 ...입니다. che i·rŭ·mŭn …·im·ni·da with at least two different Romanisation systems. Do you speak English? yŏng·ŏ ha·shil·jul 영어 하실 줄 Korean pronunciation is pretty straightfor- 아시나요? a·shi·na·yo ward for English speakers, as most sounds are also found in English or have a close ap- I don’t understand. proximation. If you follow our coloured pro- 못 알아 들었어요. mot a·ra·dŭ·rŏss·ŏ·yo nunciation guides, you should be understood just fine. Korean distinguishes between aspi- ACCOMMODATION rated consonants (formed by making a puff of air as they’re pronounced) and unaspirat- Do you have ... 룸 … rum ed ones (pronounced without a puff of air). a … room? 있나요? in·na·yo In our pronunciation guides, aspirated con- single 싱글 shing·gŭl sonants (except for s and h) are followed by double 더블 tŏ·bŭl an apostrophe ( ’ ). Syllables are pronounced twin 트윈 t’ŭ·win with fairly even emphasis in Korean. BASICS How much ...에 …·é per …? 얼마예요? ŏl·ma·ye·yo Hello. 안녕하세요. an·nyŏng night 하룻밤 ha·rup·pam ha·se·yo person 한 명 han·myŏng week 일주일 il·chu·il Goodbye. 안녕히 an·nyŏng·hi air-con 냉방 naeng·bang (if leaving/ 계세요/ kye·se·yo/ bathroom 욕실 yok·shil staying) 가세요. ka·se·yo in·t’ŏ·net internet 인터넷 hwa·jang·shil Yes. 네. né toilet 화장실 ch’ang·mun window 창문 No. 아니요. a·ni·yo Excuse me. 실례합니다. shil·lé ham·ni·da Sorry. 죄송합니다. choé·song ham·ni·da Thank you. 고맙습니다./ ko·map·sŭm·ni·da/ 감사합니다. kam·sa·ham·ni·da You’re 천만에요. ch’ŏn·ma·ne·yo Is breakfast included? welcome. 아침 포함인가요? a·ch’im p’o·ha·min·ga·yo

403 DIRECTIONS KEY PATTERNS Where’s a/the …? … ŏ·di in·na·yo To get by in Korean, mix and match ... 어디 있나요? these simple patterns with words of your choice: What’s the address? chu·so·ga mwŏ·ye·yo 주소가 뭐예요? When’s (the next bus)? Language Directions Could you please write it down? (다음 버스) 언제 (ta·ŭm bŏ·sŭ) ŏn·jé 적어 주시겠어요? chŏ·gŏ ju·shi·gess·ŏ·yo 있나요? in·na·yo Please show me (on the map). Where’s (the train/subway station)? (지도에서) 어디인지 (chi·do·e·sŏ) ŏ·di·in·ji (역) 어디예요? (yŏk) ŏ·di·ye·yo 가르쳐 주세요. ka·rŭ·ch’ŏ ju·se·yo I’m looking for (a hotel). Turn left/right. (호텔) 찾고 (ho·t’el) ch’ak·ko 좌회전/ chwa·hoé·jŏn/ 있어요. iss·ŏ·yo 우회전 하세요. u·hoé·jŏn ha·se·yo Do you have (a map)? (지도) 가지고 (chi·do) ka·ji·go Turn at the … ...에서 도세요. …·e·sŏ to·se·yo 계신가요? kye·shin·ga·yo corner 모퉁이 mo·t’ung·i Is there (a toilet)? (화장실) 있나요? (hwa·jang·shil) in·na·yo pedestrian 횡단 hoéng·dan· crossing 보도 bo·do I’d like (the menu). ... 있어요. … iss·ŏ·yo (메뉴) 주세요. (me·nyu) ju·se·yo It’s … I’d like to (hire a car). behind … ... 뒤에 … dwi·é (차 빌리고) (ch’a pil·li·go) 싶어요. shi·p’ŏ·yo in front of … ... 앞에 … a·p’é near … ... 가까이에 … kak·ka·i·é Could you please (help me)? (저를 도와) (chŏ·rŭl to·wa) next to … ... 옆에 … yŏ·p’é 주시겠어요? ju·shi·gess·ŏ·yo on the corner 모퉁이에 mo·t’ung·i·é How much is (a room)? (방) 얼마예요? (pang) ŏl·ma·ye·yo opposite … ... 반대 … pan·dae· 편에 p’yŏ·né Do I need (a visa)? straight ahead 정면에 chŏng·myŏ·né (비자) 필요한가요? (pi·ja) p’i·ryo·han·ga·yo EATING & DRINKING (eight) o’clock (여덟) 시 (yŏ·dŏl)·shi (two) people (두) 명 (tu)·myŏng Can we see the menu? 메뉴 볼 수 있나요? me·nyu bol·su in·na·yo What would you recommend? Key Words 추천 ch’u·ch’ŏn 해 주시겠어요? hae·ju·shi·gess·ŏ·yo bar 술집 sul·chip Do you have any vegetarian dishes? pyŏng 채식주의 음식 ch’ae·shik·chu·i ŭm·shik bottle 병 sa·bal a·ch’im 있나요? in·na·yo bowl 사발 chŏk·ka·rak ch’a·ga·un I’d like …, please. breakfast 아침 chŏ·nyŏk ... 주세요. p’o·k’ŭ … ju·se·yo chopsticks 젓가락 chan ddŭ·gŏ·un Cheers! kŏn·bae cold 차가운 k’al 건배! chŏm·shim dinner 저녁 shi·jang chŏp·shi That was delicious! ma·shiss·ŏss·ŏ·yo fork 포크 shik·tang 맛있었어요! glass 잔 Please bring the bill. 계산서 가져다 kye·san·sŏ ka·jŏ·da hot (warm) 뜨거운 주세요. ju·se·yo knife 칼 lunch 점심 I’d like to ... 테이블 … t’e·i·bŭl market 시장 reserve a 예약해 ye·ya·k’ae table for … 주세요. ju·se·yo plate 접시 restaurant 식당

404 Language Eating & Drinking Signs Open mushroom 버섯 pŏ·sŏt 영업 중 Closed nut 견과류 kyŏn·gwa·ryu 휴무 Entrance onion 양파 yang·p’a 입구 Exit orange 오렌지 o·ren·ji 출구 … Prohibited pea 완두콩 wan·du·k’ong ... 금지 No Smoking Area peach 복숭아 pok·sung·a 금연 구역 Toilets pear 배 pae 화장실 Men plum 자두 cha·du 신사용 Women potato 감자 kam·ja 숙녀용 pumpkin 늙은 호박 nŭl·gŭn ho·bak spinach 시금치 shi·gŭm·ch’i snack 간식 kan·shik strawberry 딸기 ddal·gi spicy (hot) 매운 mae·un tomato 토마토 t’o·ma·t’o spoon 숟가락 suk·ka·rak vegetable 야채 ya·ch’ae watermelon 수박 su·bak Meat & Fish Other beef 쇠고기 soé·go·gi bread tak·ko·gi cheese chicken 닭고기 o·ri egg 빵 bbang saeng·sŏn honey 치즈 ch’i·jŭ duck 오리 ch’ŏng·ŏ noodles 계란 kye·ran yang·go·gi rice (cooked) 꿀 ggul fish 생선 ko·gi salt 국수 kuk·su hong·hap soup 밥 pap herring 청어 kul sugar 소금 so·gŭm twae·ji·go·gi 수프 su·p’ŭ lamb 양고기 tae·ha 설탕 sŏl·t’ang yŏ·nŏ meat 고기 hae·mul ch’am·ch’i mussel 홍합 ch’il·myŏn·jo song·a·ji go·gi oyster 굴 pork 돼지고기 prawn 대하 salmon 연어 Drinks seafood 해물 tuna 참치 beer 맥주 maek·chu k’ŏ·p’i turkey 칠면조 coffee 커피 jus·sŭ u·yu veal 송아지 고기 juice 주스 saeng·su re·dŭ wa·in milk 우유 Fruit & Vegetables mineral water 생수 사과 sa·gwa red wine 레드 와인 apple apricot 살구 sal·gu bean 콩 k’ong Question Words capsicum 고추 ko·ch’u how 어떻게 ŏt·tŏ·k’é mu·ŏ·sŭl carrot 당근 tang·gŭn what (object) 무엇을 mwŏ·ga ŏn·jé corn 옥수수 ok·su·su what (subject) 뭐가 ŏ·di ŏ·nŭ cucumber 오이 o·i when 언제 nu·gu·rŭl nu·ga eggplant 가지 ka·ji where 어디 wae fruit 과일 kwa·il which 어느 legume 콩류 k’ong·nyu who (object) 누구를 lentil 렌즈콩 ren·jŭ·k’ong who (subject) 누가 lettuce 양상추 yang·sang·ch’u why 왜

405 soft drink 탄산 t’an·san ATM 현금인출기 hyŏn·gŭ·min· 음료 ŭm·nyo ch’ul·gi tea 차 ch’a p’i·shi·bang water 물 mul internet cafe PC방 u·ch’e·guk white wine 화이트 hwa·i·t’ŭ kwan·gwang 와인 wa·in post office 우체국 an·nae·so tourist office 관광안내소 L a n g uag e Em e r g e n c i e s EMERGENCIES TIME & DATES Help! 도와주세요! to·wa·ju·se·yo What time is it? myŏs·shi·ye·yo Go away! 저리 가세요! chŏ·ri ka·se·yo 몇 시예요? ... 불러주세요! … pul·lŏ·ju·se·yo It’s (two) o’clock. (tu)·shi·yo (두) 시요. Call …! Half past (two). (두) 시 삼십 분이요. (tu)·shi sam·ship·pu·ni·yo a doctor 의사 ŭi·sa the police 경찰 kyŏng·ch’al At what time …? myŏs·shi·é … 몇 시에 ...? I’m lost. ki·rŭl i·rŏss·ŏ·yo At (five) o’clock. (ta·sŏs)·shi·é 길을 잃었어요. hwa·jang·shi·ri (다섯) 시에. ŏ·di·ye·yo Where’s the toilet? chŏn a·p’a·yo Numbers 화장실이 yŏ·gi·ga a·p’a·yo Use pure Korean numbers for hours 어디예요? chŏn …·é when telling the time, for counting I’m sick. al·le·rŭ·gi·ga iss·ŏ·yo objects and people, and for expressing 전 아파요. your age. It hurts here. 1 하나 ha·na 여기가 아파요. 2 둘 tul 3 셋 set I’m allergic to … 4 넷 net 전 ...에 5 다섯 ta·sŏt 알레르기가 있어요. 6 여섯 yŏ·sŏt 7 일곱 il·gop SHOPPING & SERVICES 8 여덟 yŏ·dŏl 9 아홉 a·hop I’m just looking. kŭ·nyang 10 열 yŏl 그냥 ku·gyŏng halk·ke·yo 구경할게요. Do you have (tissues)? (hyu·ji) in·na·yo (휴지) 있나요? How much is it? ŏl·ma·ye·yo Use Sino-Korean numbers for minutes 얼마예요? when telling the time, for dates and months, and for addresses, phone num- Can you write down the price? bers, money and floors of a building. 가격을 써 ka·gyŏ·gŭl ssŏ 주시겠어요? ju·shi·gess·ŏ·yo Can I look at it? 1 일 il 보여 주시겠어요? po·yŏ ju·shi·gess·ŏ·yo 2 이 i 3 삼 sam Do you have any others? 4 사 sa 다른 건 없나요? ta·rŭn·gŏn ŏm·na·yo 5 오 o 6 육 yuk That’s too expensive. nŏ·mu piss·a·yo 7 칠 ch’il 너무 비싸요. 8 팔 p’al 9 구 ku Please give me a discount. 10 십 ship 깎아 주세요. ggak·ka·ju·se·yo There’s a mistake in the bill. 계산서가 kye·san·sŏ 이상해요. i·sang·hae·yo

406 아침 a·ch’im (Myeongdong)? 가나요? ka·na·yo 오후 o·hu morning 저녁 chŏ·nyŏk boat 배 pae afternoon 어제 ŏ·jé evening 오늘 o·nŭl bus 버스 bŏ·sŭ yesterday 내일 nae·il today metro line 지하철 chi·ha·ch’ŏl tomorrow wŏ·ryo·il 노선 no·sŏn hwa·yo·il L a n g uag e T r anspo r t su·yo·il train 기차 ki·ch’a mo·gyo·il Monday 월요일 kŭ·myo·il platform 타는 곳 t’a·nŭn·got Tuesday 화요일 t’o·yo·il p’yo cha·pan·gi Wednesday 수요일 i·ryo·il ticket machine 표 자판기 shi·gan·p’yo Thursday 목요일 Friday 금요일 i·rwŏl timetable 시간표 kyo·t’ong k’a·dŭ Saturday 토요일 i·wŏl display Sunday 일요일 sa·mwŏl sa·wŏl transportation 교통카드 o·wŏl card yu·wŏl ch’i·rwŏl At what time does it get to (Busan)? p’a·rwŏl (부산)에 언제 (pu·san)·é ŏn·jé ku·wŏl 도착하나요? to·ch’a·k’a·na·yo January 일월 shi·wŏl February 이월 shi·bi·rwŏl Does it stop at (Gyeongju)? March 삼월 shi·bi·wŏl (경주) 가나요? (kyŏng·ju) ka·na·yo April 사월 May 오월 Please tell me when we get to (Daejeon). June 유월 (대전)에 도착하면 (tae·jŏn)·é to·ch’a·k’a·myŏn July 칠월 좀 알려주세요. chom al·lyŏ·ju·se·yo August 팔월 September 구월 Please take me to (Insa-dong). October 시월 (인사동)으로 (in·sa·dong)·ŭ·ro November 십일월 가 주세요. ka·ju·se·yo December 십이월 Driving & Cycling I’d like to ... 빌리고 … pil·li·go hire a … 싶어요. shi·p’ŏ·yo 4WD 사륜구동 sa·ryun·gu·dong TRANSPORT car 차 ch’a Public Transport I’d like to hire a bicycle. 자전거 빌리려고요. cha·jŏn·gŏ pil·li·ryŏ·go·yo A … ticket (대구 가는) (tae·gu ka·nŭn) Do I need a helmet? (to Daegu), ... 표 … p’yo 헬멧 써야 하나요? hel·met ssŏ·ya ha·na·yo please. 주세요. chu·se·yo il·dŭng·sŏk Is this the road to (Donghae)? p’yŏn·do 이게 (동해) 가는 i·gé (tong·hae) ka·nŭn 1st-class 일등석 wang·bok 길인가요? ki·rin·ga·yo il·ban·sŏk one-way 편도 (How long) Can I park here? ip·sŏk (얼마 동안) 여기 (ŏl·ma·dong·an) yŏ·gi return 왕복 주차해도 되나요? chu·ch’a·hae·do doé·na·yo standard 일반석 Where’s a petrol station? class standing 입석 주유소가 chu·yu·so·ga room 어디있나요? ŏ·di in·na·yo When’s the … ... (버스) 언제 … (bŏ·sŭ) ŏn·jé I need a mechanic. cha·dong·ch’a chŏng·bi·sa·ga (bus)? 있나요? in·na·yo 자동차정비사가 p’i·ryo·hae·yo 필요해요. first 첫 ch’ŏt I’d like my bicycle repaired. last 자전거 cha·jŏn·gŏ 마지막 ma·ji·mak 고치려고요. ko·ch’i·ryŏ·go·yo Which … goes to 어느 ...이/가 ŏ·nŭ …·i/·ga (명동)에 (myŏng·dong)·é

GLOSSARY For more food and drink hae – sea pansori – traditional Korean terms, see the Food haenyeo – traditional female solo opera Glossary (p373). divers of Jeju-do PC-bang – internet cafe hagwon – private school where pension – upmarket accommo- ajumma – a married or older students study after school or dation in the countryside or near woman work beaches ~am – hermitage hallyu – (Korean Wave) increas- pocketball – pool anju – snacks eaten when ing global interest in Korean pop pokpo – waterfall drinking alcohol culture pyeong – real-estate measure- hanbok – traditional Korean ment equal to 3.3 sq m bang – room clothing bawi – large rock hang – harbour ~reung – tomb ~bong – peak hangul – Korean phonetic -ri – village buk~ – north alphabet ~ro – street buncheong – Joseon-era pottery hanja – Chinese characters ROK – Republic of Korea (South with simple designs – traditional Korean hand- Korea) mhaandjei paper ~ryeong – mountain pass celadon – green-tinged pottery hanok – traditional Korean from early 12th century one-storey wooden house with a -sa – temple cha – tea tiled or thatched Saemaul – luxury express train ~cheon – small stream roof samulnori – drum-and-gong Chuseok – Thanksgiving Day harubang – lava-rock statues dance found only on Jeju-do ~san – mountain dae~ – great, large ~ho – lake sanjang – mountain hut dancheong – ornate, multi-­ hof – local pub sanseong – mountain fortress coloured eaves that adorn seo~ – west Buddhist temples and other insam – ginseng Seon – Korean version of Zen buildings Buddhism Dangun – mythical founder of jaebeol – huge family-run ~seong – fortress Korea corporate conglomerate seowon – Confucian DEP – Democratic Party ~jeon – hall of a temple academy DMZ – the Demilitarized Zone ~jeong – pavilion shamanism – set of traditional that runs along the 38th parallel jjimjil-bang – upmarket spa beliefs; communication with spir- of the Korean peninsula, separat- and sauna its is done through a mudang ing North and South Juche – North Korean ~si – city -do – province, also island ideology of economic sijang – market -dong – neighbourhood or self-reliance sijo – short poems about nature village and life; popular in the Joseon dong~ – east KTO – Korea Tourism period donggul – cave O­ rganization soju – the local firewater; often DPRK – Democratic People’s KTX – Korea Train Express; fast likened to vodka Republic of Korea (North Korea) 300km/h train service ssireum – Korean-style wrestling DVD-bang – room for watching DVDs minbak – private homes with taekwondo – Korean martial art rooms for rent tap – pagoda -eup – town mudang – female tonggeun – commuter-class shaman train -ga – section of a long street Mugunghwa – semi-express train ~gang – river ~mun – gate yangban – aristocrat geobukseon – ‘turtle ships’; -myeon – township yeogwan – motel with small iron-clad warships of the late ~myo – shrine en suite 16th century yeoinsuk – small, family-run gil – small street nam~ – south budget accommodation with -gu – urban district ~neung – tomb shared bathroom gugak – traditional Korean ~no – street yo – padded quilt that serves as music norae-bang – karaoke a mattress or futon for sleeping ~gul – cave room on the floor -gun – county ~nyeong – mountain pass ~gung – palace oncheon – hot-spring bath gwageo – Joseon government ondol – underfloor heating service exam system

408 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS David Carroll and Nóirín Hegarty for letting me go skiing for a living. And massive gratitude to Many thanks to the travellers who used the my husband, Bill, who unfailingly supports me last edition and wrote to us with helpful when the need for a solo adventure strikes. hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Trent Holden Kim Aeran, Rod Bennett, Martina Bieri, Larry Cannon, DongKwon Choi, Abilio Gomez, Molly Thanks first up to Megan Eaves for giving me Harder, Kim Ha-ye-ram, Kenneth Holmes, the opportunity to work on Korea – a wonder- Maria Kamsäter, David Kerkhoff, Dan Krech- ful gig –­ as well as to my co-authors, especially mer, Maureen Liston, Melanie Luangsay, Simon for all the help and tips along the way. Marcos Mendonca, Serhat Narsap, Triin Saag, A shout out to all the good folk I met on the Nico Scherer, Susanne Stigsson, Hal Swindall, road and shared a beer with. But as always my Charlotte Toolan, Jennifer Ward, Wim West- biggest thanks goes to my beautiful girlfriend ervoorde, Julie Woods Kate, and my family and friends who I miss back home in Melbourne. AUTHOR THANKS Rebecca Milner Simon Richmond A huge thank you to my husband Chikara, Many thanks to my fellow authors, as well as as always, for your company and support. To Maureen O’Crowley and Kim Daegeun at Seoul Ashley and Pedro for your invaluable help and Tourism, Seunghyo Lee, Daniel Durrance, friendship. To Hyo Yun Kim, the best TIC lady in Charles Usher, Alistair Gale, Joshua Hall, the country. And thank you to Seunghyo, Peter, Joshua Davies, Joshua Park, David and Jade David, Robert, Luis, Su Bae Yang, Cho Seung-ki, Kilburn, Robert Koehler, Monica Cha, Becca Kim Keun Su, Choi, Mori, Rachel, Calen, Jae Baldwin, Daniel Lenaghan and Julia Mellor. Hyeon, Ted, Morgan, Jonathan, Moon Yumi, Will, another Ashley, my inspiring co-authors Megan Eaves and my ever-patient editor Megan. Many thanks are due to the outstanding Phillip Tang authors on this project who let me into their chapters and were flexible in working with me Thanks to the travellers and locals who shared to make the winter activities great. Thanks to their experiences, the very helpful ladies at Cheongju tourist information centre, and Megan Eaves for having me on board. Thanks

to Jack Kennerley for Tour Le Jours taste 409BEHIND THE SCENES testing, the abandoned theme park and insights. And, my understanding friends in Bone Henge. Big thanks to Daniel Belfield Busan, Tae-ho, Kim, Levi and Richard. Thanks. for four seasons on one train, oh they have popcorn, and jjimdak sharing. Cheers to ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Pukyong National University and Do Be for lending a hand. Muchas gracias to Ernesto A. Cover photograph: Young woman in tradition- Alanis Cataño, Vek Lewis, Da Sel Lee and Lisa al attire, Seoul; Jim Zuckerman/Alamy N’Paisan. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Rob Whyte Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Many thanks to many good folk. In Seogwipo, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Mrs Lee at the tourism office and Mr Kim at Sciences, 11, 1633–44. the ferry terminal went way out of their way to help me understand schedules and routes. Mrs Kim inside the Tongyeong passenger ferry terminal for her patience. Ian for his THIS BOOK Destination Editor Book Designer Megan Eaves Michael Buick This 10th edition of Lonely Product Editor Planet’s Korea guidebook Sarah Billington Cover Researcher was researched and written Assisting Editors Campbell McKenzie by Simon Richmond, Megan Andrew Bain, Bridget Blair, Thanks to David Carroll, Eaves, Trent Holden, Rebecca Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Simon Cockerell, Jo Cooke, Milner, Phillip Tang and Rob Susan Paterson, Erin Richards, Nóirín Hegarty, Andi Jones, Whyte. The previous two Adela Shin, Jeanette Wall Katherine Marsh, Claire Mur- editions were also written Senior Cartographer phy, Catherine Naghten, Karyn by Simon, with Shawn Low, Corey Hutchison Noble, Monique Perrin, Martine Timothy N Hornyak, Yu-Mei Cartographer Power, Samantha Russell-Tulip, Balasingamchow and César G Alison Lyall Dianne Schallmeiner, Jaeyoon Soriano. This guidebook was Shin, Ellie Simpson, Vicky produced by the following: Smith, Angela Tinson, Lauren Wellicome

4 10 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A palaces 43, 45, 380-1 Myeongsasim-ni 223 Busan International Phoenix Island 245 Samcheok 145 Film Festival 24, 189 accommodation 18, Seoul City Hall 45 Sangju 204 388-90, see also  temples & palaces 43, Songdowon 322 bushwalking, see hiking individual locations Woljeong Beach 243 business hours 17, 393 costs 389 45, 380-1 bears 206, 382, 384 Buyeo 286-9, 288 internet resources 390 area codes beer 77 Byeolsingut Talnori 178 language 402 bicycle travel, see cycling Byeonsan-bando North Korea 336-7 birds 383 activities 23-4, 29-33, 128, South Korea 394 birdwatching 33 National Park 273-4, see also individual art galleries, see galleries & Biyangdo 262 activities museums blogs 342 274 arts boat tours 173, 199 air travel North Korea 333-4 boat travel 397, 398 C language 406 South Korea 377-80 Bongeun-sa 54 North Korea 337-8 ATMs 393 books cable cars to/from Korea 397 architecture 380 Geumgang Park 186 within Korea 398 B culture 366 Hallyeosudo 200 food 370 N Seoul Tower & alcohol 371-2, see also Baengnyeongdo 115-6 history 340, 351, 352, Namsan 44-5 beer, rice wine, wine barbecue 367-8 Palgong-san Skyline bargaining 19 354 155-6 amusement parks baseball 365 nature 385, 386 Aquaworld 303 basketball 365 North Korea 342 camping 388 Caribbean Bay 107 bath houses Boryeong 289-90 canoeing 33 Everland 107 Boryeong Mud car travel 399-400 Jeju Glass Castle 261 Greenvill 149 Festival 24, 289 Legoland 124 Life Spa 149 Boseong 221-2 language 406 Lotte World 54 Tongyeong Sea Land 201 Buddhism 363 cathedrals, see churches & Munsu Waterpark Yulpo Haesu budget (North Korea) 315 accommodation 389 cathedrals Nokchatang 222 food 392 caves Andong 176-8, 177 bathrooms North Korea 307 Andong Folk Village 176 South Korea 17 Gosu Donggul 303 Andong Mask Dance North Korea 337 Bukaksan 52 Hwanseongul 144 South Korea 394 Bukchon Hanok Village 43 Manjang-gul 242 Festival 176, 178 beaches bungee jumping 128 Ryongmun Big Cave animals 382-3, see also Bamseom Beach 290 bus travel 399, 400 Daecheon Beach 289 language 406 (North Korea) 322 individual species Geomeolneomeo cell phones Anyang Art Park 104 Busan 35, 182-97, 184-5, aquariums 54 Beach 290 188, 191, 192, 196 North Korea 336 Arario Museum Gimnyeong Beach 241 accommodation 189-90 South Korea 16, 393-4 Gugyedeung 223-4 climate 182 Changdeokgung 43 in SPACE 43-4 Gwangan 187 food 182, 190-2 Changgyeonggung 48 architecture 20, 380-1, see Gyeongpo Beach 137 highlights 183 changing money 393 Haeundae 187 history 183-4, 185 Cheomseongdae 159 also historic buildings Hakdong Mongdol travel seasons 182 Cheong-gye-cheon 10, 43, books 380 11, 66 contemporary and Beach 198 Cheongju 294, 296-7 Iho Tewoo Beach 234 Chiaksan National Park postwar 381 Ilchul-bong Beach 245 145-6, 145 Gangnam 62 Jungmun Beach 255 Chilbosan 325-6 hanoks 381, 2 Kkotji Beach 291 children, travel with North Korea 335 Map Pages 000 South Korea 84, 390 Photo Pages 000 Chongjin 326

411 Christianity 363-4 D Ewha Womans glossary 373-6 I N D E X C - G University 47 jeongsik 369 Chuncheon 121-4, 123 Dadohae Haesang kimchi 212, 368 Chungcheongbuk-do 36, National Park 229-30 exchange rates language 403-4 North Korea 307 Namdo 213 293-305, 294 Daegu 148-58, 150-1, 153 South Korea 17 seafood 127, 190, 368-9 accommodation 293 Daein-sijang 214 street food 371 climate 293 Daejeon 277-81, 278 F vegan & vegetarian food food 293 Damyang 215-6 highlights 294 dangers, see safety fashion 18 372-3 travel seasons 293 Danyang 302-4, 303 ferries, see boat travel foreign exchange 307, 393 Chungcheongnam-do 36, Dawon 379 festivals & events 23-4 fortresses 276-92, 277 Demilitarized Zone accommodation 276 Andong Mask Dance Busosan-seong 286 climate 276 Cheorwan 129 Festival 176, 178 Geumjeong 186-7 food 276 Gyeonggi-do 95, 98, 385 Gongsan-seong 283 highlights 277 North Korea 320-1 Baekje Cultural Hwaseong 101 history 277 Deokjeokdo 115 Festival 284 Jinju 202 travel seasons 276 Deoksugung 45 Moyang 272-3 Chungju 299-305 disabilities, travellers with Boryeong Mud Naganeup-seong Folk churches & cathedrals North Korea 337 Festival 289 Jeondong Catholic South Korea 395 Village 217 diving 33, 245 Busan International Namhansanseong 104 Church 265 DMZ, see Demilitarized Zone Film Festival 189 Sangdang San-seong Myeong-dong Catholic Dodong-ri 172, 174 Doegyusan National Busan International 295 Cathedral 45 Park 270, 271 Fireworks Festival 189 Seongsan-ri 244 cinema 340, 379 dogs 382-3 Dokdo 152 Chuncheon G Busan International Dolharubang 233 International Mime Film Festival 189 Dongdaemun Design Plaza Festival 121 Gajisan Provincial & Park 51-2, 67 Park 197-8 Jeonju International Donggureung 104 Dano Festival 135 Film Festival 267 Dongnakdang 168 Festival Bo:m 60 galleries & museums drinking, see individual Gwangju Kimchi Andong Folklore Pyongyang Film Festival locations Museum 176 (North Korea) 318 drinks 370-2, see also Festival 212 Arario Museum individual drinks Jeonju International in SPACE 43-4, 233 Citizens Hall 45 language 403-4 Artside 89 climate 23-4, see also  driving, see car travel Film Festival 267 Artsonje Center 88 driving licences 399 Jeonju Sori Festival 267 Busan Modern History individual locations DVDs 394 Jikji Festival 295 Museum 188 clothing 18, 366 Jindo Miracle Busan Museum COEX Aquarium 54 E of Art 188 comfort women 354 Sea Road Festival 229 Buyeo National conflict 341-2 economy 307 Jongmyo Daeje 61-2 Museum 286 Confucianism 363 electricity 391 Korea International Chamsori Gramophone consulates, see embassies embassies & Edison Museum credit cards 393 Art Fair 61 135, 136 culture North Korea 335 Lotus Lantern Daegu National South Korea 391 Museum 149 books 366 emergencies 391 Festival 61 Daegu Yangnyeongsi etiquette 19 language 405 Sajik Daeje 61 Museum of Oriental North Korea 327, 331-5 environment Seoul Drum Festival 61 Medicine 149 South Korea 18, 340-2, climate change 397 Seoul Fringe Festival 61 DMZ Museum 127-8 North Korea 334 Seoul International Early Printing Museum 366 South Korea 382-6 295 currency 16 sustainable travel 398 Cartoon & Animation Expo 2012 Yeosu customs regulations etiquette Festival 61 Korea Memorial North Korea 313 Seoul International Hall 219 North Korea 335 South Korea 19, 373 Fireworks Festival 61 Folklore & Natural South Korea 390-1 eunuchs 349-50 Taebaeksan Snow History Museum 234 cycling 30, 398 events, see festivals & Festival 144 Gallery Hyundai 88 Gyeongju 168 events World Martial Arts Ganghwa History Jeju-do 233, 241, 250, Festival 299 Museum 117 Yeongdeungpo Yeouido Gangjin Celadon 254 Spring Flower Museum 222 language 406 Festival 60 Seoul 57 film, see cinema Songdo International folk villages, 12, 102, 168, 176, 179, 217, 247-9, City 114 12, 236 Uiam-ho 121 food 22, 367-76, see also individual locations budgeting 392 ginseng 287

412 I N D E X G - H galleries & museums Modern Architecture Gangjin 222 H continued Museum 108 Gangneung 134-9, 134 Hado-ri 243-4 Gongju National Mokpo Modern History Gangwon-do 34, 119-46, Haein-sa 156 Museum 283 Museum 225 Haenam 222-3 120 Gunsan Modern History Mr Toilet House 102 accommodation 119 Haeundae 187, 188 Museum 274 Museum of Sex climate 119 Hahoe Folk food 119 Gwangju Folk Museum & Health 238 highlights 120 Village 179-80, 236 210-1 Nam June Paik Art history 120-1 Hallasan National travel seasons 119 Gwangju Museum of Center 102 Gapado 260 Park 257-60, 258 Art 210 National Folk Museum gardens, see parks & Hallim 262 gardens, provincial Hamhung 322 Gwangju National of Korea 44 parks Hampyeong Seawater Museum 209-10 National Maritime Gatbawi Culture District 225 Sauna 230 Gyeongju National Museum 225 gate pole messages 261 hangeul 347 Museum 159 National Museum of gay travellers 75, 391-2 hanoks 43, 45, 381 Geojedo 198-200 health 392 Haegang Ceramics Korea 50-1 Heuksando 230 Museum 105 National Museum of Geumjeong-san 186, 191 Gilsang-sa 48 Heyri 98-101, 236 Haenyeo Museum 243 Korean Contemporary ginseng 287 hiking 29-30 Hakgojae 88 History 44 Gochang 272-3 Hamel Memorial 257 O’Sulloc Tea Gochang dolmen site 273 Bukhansan Historic Park of Geoje Museum 261 Gohan 141-2 National Park 110 Revolutionary Museum golf 33, 260 POW Camp 198 (North Korea) 326 Chiaksan National Hoam Art Museum 107 Sansawon Brewery & Gongju 283-5, 284 Park 145, 145 House of Sharing 354 Museum 105 gunhap 366 Hwabong Gallery 89 Seodaemun Prison Gunsan 274 Deogyusan National Incheon Metropolitan History Hall 50 Gurye 216-7 Park 270-2, 271 Seoul City Wall Gwanghwamun 43-4 City Museum 109 Museum 52 Gajisan 197 Incheon Open Port Seoul Museum of Gwangju 209-15, 210 Haebyeongil 291 Art 45 Gwangju Biennale 24, 212 Hallasan National Park Museum 107 Seoul Museum of International Friendship History 44 Gyeongbokgung 43, 66-7 257-60, 258 Soju Museum 176 Gyeonggi-do 94-106, 96-7 Jeju Olle Trail 259 Exhibition (North Songgyungwan Jirisan 206 Korea) 321-2 Neo-Confucian climate 94 Mani-san 117 Jean Art Gallery 89 College (North Korea) highlights 96-7 Nammang-san 200 Jeju April 3 Peace 320 sights 94 Namsan 166 Park 254 Sun Art Center 89 travel seasons 94 Odaesan Jeju Loveland 238 Suwon Hwaseong Jeju Museum of Art 234 Museum 102 Gyeongju 158-68, 160-1 National Park 142 Jeju Museum of Teddy Bear Gyeongsangbuk-do 35, Saryeoni Forest 234 Contemporary Art 261 Museum 255 Seoraksan National Jeju Peace Museum 254 Three Revolutions 147-81, 148 Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Exhibition (North accommodation 147 Park 129, 132, 130-1 Shrine 47-8 Korea) 314 climate 147 Ulleungo 174 Jeonju Hanji Traditional Wine food 147 Woraksan National Museum 265-7 Museum 265 highlights 148 Kim Young Gap Gallery Uijae Museum history 148 Park 302, 302 Dumoak 254 of Korean Art 211 travel seasons 147 historic buildings Korea Tea Museum 222 Victorious Fatherland Gyeongsangnam-do 35, Korea Furniture Liberation War 182-207, 183 Cheongnamdae 297 Museum 48 Museum (North accommodation 182 Cheongpung Korean Revolution Korea) 313 climate 182 Museum War Memorial of food 182 Cultural Heritage (North Korea) 314 Korea 51 highlights 183 Complex 300 Kukje 88 War & Women’s Human history 183-4 Gangneung Lee Jung-Seop Art Rights Museum 48 travel seasons 182 Seongyojang 136-7 Gallery & Park 249 Wooyong Museum of Gyeryongsan National Goseong Unification Leeum Samsung Contemporary Art 162 Park 282-3, 282 Observatory Museum of Art 51 World Eros Museum 238 Building 127 Lock Museum 48 Gamcheon Culture Gyeonggijeon 265 MMCA Seoul 44 Village 187 Gyeongpo-ho & Ganghwado 116-8 Gyeongpodae Map Pages 000 Pavilion 137 Photo Pages 000 Jeongnimsaji 287 Jeonju Hyanggyo 265 Jinnamgwan 219

413 Ojukheon 135-6 Jindo 229 K martial arts 299, see also I N D E X H - N Omok-dae 265 Marado 261 taekwondo history 341-2, 343-62 Kaesong 319-20 Dokdo 152 Namiseom 121, 21 kayaking 33, 128 Mask Dance Festival Donghak Rebellion 351 Odongdo 219 K-Drama 378 24, 178 first Koreans 343 Oedo Botania 198-9 Kim Il-sung Square 313 Goryeo dynasty 345 Seonyudo 275 kimchi 368 mausoleums, see tombs & hangeul 347 West Sea islands 115-18 Kim Jong-il 329-30 mausoleums hanoks 381 itineraries Kim Jong-un 330-1 Japanese Rule 350-4 North Korea 307 King Sejong statue 44 measures 394 Jikji printing Seoul 39, 42, 55, 57 Korea House 85 media South Korea 25-8 Korean Folk Village 102 press 301 Korean language 402-7 North Korea 332 Joseon dynasty 347-50 J Korean War 328-9, 355-6 medical services Korean War 355-6 K-Pop 378 North Korea 309, 327-31 Jeju-do 35, 231-62, 232, Kumgangsan 323 Busan 194 postwar recovery 357 242 Gyeongsangnam-do 194 Seoul 81 accommodation 231 L Seoul 90 Three Kingdoms 343-5 climate 231 medical tourism 392 hitching 400 food 231 Lake Bomun 162, 165 MMCA Seoul 44 holidays highlights 232 language, Korean 16, 19, mobile phones North Korea 336 history 232 North Korea 336 South Korea 393 travel seasons 231 402-7 South Korea 16, 393-4 Hongdo 229 Leeum Samsung House of Sharing 354 Jeju Loveland 238 Mokpo 225-9, 226 Hwaseong 101 Jeju Olle Trail 259 Museum of Art 51 money Hwaseong legal matters Haenggung 101-2 Jeju-si 233-41, 235 bargaining 19 Jeoldusan Martyrs’ North Korea 336 changing money 393 I South Korea 392-3 North Korea 336 Shrine 47-8 lesbian travellers 75, tipping 19 ice skating 31, 33 Jeollabuk-do 36, 263-75, 391-2 transport passes 401 Icheon 105-6 literature 340, 342, moon bears 384 Ihwa Maeul 48 264 379-80, see also books Moseulpo 260-1 immigration climate 263 Lotte World 31, 33, 54 mosques 54 food 263 Lotus Lantern Festival motorcycle travel North Korea 337 highlights 264 23, 361 399-400 South Korea 397 hiking 263 lunar new year 23 language 406 road rules 400 Incheon 107-13, 108 travel seasons 263 M Muju 270 Incheon-gwangyeok-si 94, Jeollanam-do 35, multiculturalism 366 magazines 394 mural villages 102 106-18, 96-7 208-30, 209 Magok-sa 285-6 museums, see galleries & art & culture 94 accommodation 208 makgeolli 268 museums climate 94 climate 208 Manjang-gul 242-3 music 378-9 highlights 96-7 food 208 Marado 261 sights 94 highlights 209 markets Muuido 112, 113 travel seasons 94 history 209 Myohyangsan 321-2 insurance 392 travel seasons 208 Daegu’s Herbal Mysterious internet access jeongsik 369 Medicine Market 149 North Korea 335-6I Sea Road 229 South Korea 392 Jeonju 264-9, 266 Daein-sijang 214 internet resources Jeonju Hanok Maeul 265 Gwangjang Market 73 N North Korea 307 Jikji 301 Incheon Grand Fishery South Korea 390 Jikji-sa 158 N Seoul Tower 44 Inwangsan Guksadang 50 Jindo 229 Market 107 Naejangsan National islands 22 Jagalchi Fish Baengnyeongdo 115-16 Jinju 201-3, 202 Park 269-70, 269 Biyangdo 262 Jirisan National Market 190 Naganeup-seong Deokjeokdo 115 Jeongnamjin Saturday Gapado 260 Park 206-7, 205, 253 Folk Village 217 Heuksando 230 Jogye-sa 43 Market 227 Namhaedo 204 Hongdo 229 Joint Security Area (JSA) Jungang Live Fish Namhansanseong 104 Nampo 323-4 95, 98 Market 200 Jongmyo 43 Namdaemun Market 86 Nampo-dong 196 Jongmyo Daeje 23 Noryang Fish Market 73 Namsan 163-8, 164 Jungmun Resort 254-6 Seomun-sijang 154 Namsangol Hanok Juwangsan National Yangdong-sijang 214 Yasigolmok 154 Village 45 Park 180-1, 180-1 Nanta 80 National Folk Museum of Korea 44

414 I N D E X N - P National Museum disabilities, travellers palaces costs 392 of Korea 50-1 with 337 Changdeokgung 43 etiquette 19, 373 Changgyeonggung 48 first-time visitors 18-19 National Museum of embassies 335 Deoksugung 45 internet resources 17, Korean Contemporary environment 334 Goryeogungji Palace History 44 etiquette 313 117-18 307, 390 food 306, 334-5 Gyeongbokgung 43 itineraries 25-8 national parks 383-4, see highlights 308, 314 Hwaseong Korea basics 16-17 also provincial parks history 309, 327-31 Haenggung 101-2 Korea’s regions 34-6 immigration 337 outdoor activities 29-33 Bukhansan National internet access 335-6 Palgongsan Provincial packing 18 Park 110 itineraries 307 Park 155-6, 155 travel seasons 16, 23-4, legal matters 336 Byeonsan-bando media 332 Panmunjeom (JSA) 95 306 National Park 273-4, mobile phones 336 Panmunjom plants 383 money 336 273 passports 337 (North Korea) 320-1 Pohang 169-72, 170 Chiaksan National photography & video parks & gardens, see politics Park 145-6, 145 336 also national parks, North Korea 327 Dadohae Haesang politics 327 provincial parks South Korea 340-2 population 332-3 Anapji Pond 160 population National Park 229-30 postal services 336 Anyang Art Park 104 South Korea 341 public holidays 336 Cheollipo Arboretum 292 North Korea 332-3 Doegyusan National religion 333 Children’s Grand postal services Park 270, 271 sport 333 Park 52 North Korea 336 telephone services 336, Daehan Dawon South Korea 393 Gyeryongsan National Tea Plantation 221-2 provincial parks 383-4, Park 282-3, 282 336-7 Ganghwa Dolmen see also national parks time 337 Park 117 Cheongnyangsan Haegeumgang 198 toilets 337 Gimnyeong Maze tours 307, 338 Park 243 Provincial Park 180 Hallasan National travel seasons 306 Haesindang Park 144-5 Daedunsan Park 257-60, 258 travel to/from Hallim Park 262 Igidae 187 Provincial Park 270 Jirisan National North Korea 337-8 Jayu Park 107 Duryunsan Park 206-7, 205 travel within Jeju Stone Park 234 Juknokwon 215-16 Provincial Park 222 Juwangsan National North Korea 338 Mineral Spring Park 172 Gajisan Park 180-1, 180 visas 337 Moran Hill 314 women travellers 337 Olympic Park 52 Provincial Park 197-8 Mudeungsan Noryangjin Fish Market 73 Seolbong Park 105 Jogyesan National Park 211 nuclear power 385 Seoul Forest 52 Skygarden 47 Provincial Park 218 Naejangsan O Spirited Garden 261 Maisan National Park 269-70 Taejongdae Park 187 observatories 95, 98, 109, Unification Park 138-9 Provincial Park 269 Odaesan 116, 117, 127, 129, 159 Yeomiji Botanical Moaksan National Park 142 Garden 255 Odaesan National Yongdu-san Park 188 Provincial Park 268-9 Seoraksan Park 142-3, 140 Yudalsan Park 225 Naksan National Park 129 passports Odongdo 219 North Korea 337 Provincial Park 128 Sobaeksan National Oedo Botania 198-9 South Korea 397 Palgongsan Provincial Park 304-5, 305 Oksan Seowon 168-9 performing arts 378, 379 Olympic Park 52 Phoenix Island 245 Park 155-6, 156 Songnisan National oncheon 279 photography Seonunsan Park 298-9, 298 opening hours 17, 393 North Korea 336 outdoor activities 20, South Korea 393 Provincial Park 273 Taean-haean National planning Taebaeksan Marine Park 291-2 29-33, 128, see also budgeting 17, 389, 392 individual activities calendar of events 23-4 Provincial Park 144 Woraksan National children, travel with public holidays Park 302 P 335, 390 North Korea 336 newspapers 394 Paekdusan 324-5 South Korea 393 pagodas, see temples & Pyeongchang 139-41 nightlife, see individual Pyongyang Film Studios neighbourhoods pagodas (North Korea) 314 Paju 99 North Korea 36, 306-38, Pyongyang 308-19, 310-1 accommodation 315-16 308 activities 315 accommodation 306, 335 drinking & nightlife 317 entertainment 318 area codes 336-7 food 316-17 highlights 310-11 arts 333-4 bathrooms 337 budget 307 children, travel with 335 climate 306 culture 313, 327, 331-5 customs regulations 335 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

415 history 309 cycling tours 57, 57 spas 188 Unju-sa 216 I N D E X P - U shopping 318-19 drinking & nightlife sports 365 Woljeong-sa 142 sights 309, 312-15 Yakcheon-sa 255 74-8, 80 baseball 194, 214 theme parks, see  R entertainment 80-5 football 194 amusement parks festivals & events 60-1 horse racing 239 Third Infiltration Tunnel 95 radio 394 food 38, 68-74 North Korea 333 time rafting 33, 128 highlights 40-1 South Korea 365 North Korea 337 Rajin-Sonbong 326 shopping 85-9 street food 371 South Korea 16, 394 religion sights 39, 43-5, 47-8, subways, see train travel tipping 19 Suncheon 217-8, 217 T-Money card 400 Confucianism 363 50-2, 54 Sungnyemun 45 toilets Buddhism 363 tourist information 90-2 surfing 33 North Korea 337 Christianity 363-4 tours 60 Suwon 101-4, 100 South Korea 394 North Korea 333 travel seasons 38 tombs & mausoleums Shamanism 364 travel to/from 91-2 T Baekje Royal Tombs Tripitaka Koreana 157 travel within 92-3 rice wine 105, 268 Taebaeksan Snow 286-7 rock climbing 29-30, 110 walking tours 42, 55, Festival 23, 144 Bullo-dong 42, 55 S taekwondo 272, 365 Tumuli-gongwon 149 Seoul Central Mosque 54 Tap-sa 269, 252 Noseo-dong safety 391 Seoul City Hall 45 taxes 393 hitching 400 Seoul City Wall taxis 400 Tombs 159 tea 222 Samneung 163-4 Sagye-ri 256-7 Museum 52 telephone services Seonjeongneung 54 saju 366 Seoul Museum of Art 45 Tomb of King Kongmin Samak-san 125 Seoul Museum of North Korea 336-7 Samcheok 143-5 South Korea 16-7, 393-4 (North Korea) 320 Samjinae 216 History 44 temple stays 65 Tumuli-gongwon 159 Sangumburi 260 Shamanism 364 temples & pagodas 142 Tongyeong 200-1 Sansawon Brewery & shopping 20 Beopju-sa 299 tourist information 395 shrines Bogyeong-sa 169-70 tours, see also boat tours, Museum 105 Bomeo-Sa 185-6 walking tours Sapsido 290-1, 290 Gatbawi 155 Bomun-sa 117 bus 399 Sasaja Samcheung 217 Inwangsan Bongeun-sa 54 City Tour Busan 189 Sehwa-ri 243-4 Bori-am 204 Daegu City Tour 149 Sejong 280 Guksadang 50 Bulguk-sa 161 Jeju City 241 Seodaemun Prison Jebiwon 176 Daeheung-sa 222 North Korea 307, 338 Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Donghak-sa 282 train travel 400-1 History Hall 50 Donghwa-sa 155 language 406 Seogwipo 249-54, 248 Shrine 47-8 Gilsang-sa 48 to North Korea 307, 338 Seokguram 163 Jongmyo 43 Girim-sa 163 translation services 396 Seomyeon 192 Sinchon Golgul-sa 161-2 travel seasons Seongeup Folk Village Guin-sa 304 North Korea 306 324 Haein-sa 156-8 South Korea 16, 23-4 247-9 Sinyang-ri 244-7 Hwaeom-sa 216-7 travel to/from Seongsan Ilchul-bong skiing 30-1, 106 Hyangir-am 219 North Korea 337-8 Jeondeung-sa 117 South Korea 397 245, 246 Alpensia Ski Resort 139 Jikji-sa 158 travel within Seongsan-ri 244-7 Bears Town Jogye-sa 43 North Korea 338 Seonjeongneung 54 Magok-sa 285-6 South Korea 397-401 Seoraksan National Ski Resort 106 Pyohon Temple trekking, see hiking Elysian 106 Tripitaka Koreana 157 Park 129-33, 130-1, High1 Ski Resort 141 (North Korea) 322 Triumphal Arch 313, 251 237 Jisan Resort 106 Sanbanggul-sa 257 TV 394 Seonyudo 275 Konjiam Ski Resort 106 Sasaja Samcheung 217 Seoul 34, 38-92, 40-1, 46, Masik-Ryong Ski Resort Seokbul-sa 187 U 49, 50, 53, 58-9, 66, Seoknam-Sa 198 72, 79 (North Korea) 323 Ssanggye-Sa 206 Udo 250 accommodation 38, Muju Deogyusan Tap-sa 269, 252 61-5, 67-8 Tongdo-Sa 198 Ulleungdo 172-6, 173, 236 activities 56 Resort 272 Unification Park 138-9 architecture 62 Yangji Pine Resort 106 Unju-sa 216 children 84 Yongpyong Ski climate 38 courses 56, 60 Resort 140 snowboarding 30-1, 106 soccer 365 Sokcho 125-30, 125 Songdo International City 114 Songseon-ri 169 Songwol-dong Fairy Tale Village 108

INDEX V-Y416 visas Wando 223-4, 224 women travellers 337 North Korea 337 War & Women’s Human Wonju 145 V South Korea 16, 395-6 Wonsan 322-3 Rights Museum 48 work 396 vacations visual arts 377-8 War Memorial of Korea 51 World Eros Museum 238 North Korea 336 volunteering 396 weather 23-4, see also World Heritage sites 20 South Korea 393 W individual locations Y vegetarian travellers websites, see internet 372-3 walking, see also hiking Yangdong Folk Village 168 Oedolgae 250 access, internet Yeongjongdo 112, 113 video Yongmeori Coast 257 resources Yeosu 218-21, 220 North Korea 336 weights 394 South Korea 393 walking tours 42, 55, wine 371-2 42, 55 Winter Sonata 121 viewpoints 22, see also women in Korea 362 observatories villages 22, see also individual villages Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

417 NOTES

418 NOTES

419 NOTES

420 NOTES

NOTES421 EMMA NEUVONENLONELY PLA NET IN THE WILD Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

422 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Map Legend Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Walking Tour Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail Taoist Hut/Shelter Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International Oasis State/Province Activities, Park Disputed Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National) Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Snorkelling City/Large Town Intermittent River Surfing Town/Village Canal Swimming/Pool Walking Transport Water Windsurfing Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Border crossing Sleeping Bus Reef Cable car/Funicular Sleeping Cycling Areas Camping Ferry Metro/MRT/MTR station Airport/Runway Eating Monorail Parking Beach/Desert Eating Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Cemetery (Christian) Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Train station/Railway Cemetery (Other) Drinking & Nightlife Tram Cafe Underground station Glacier Other Transport Entertainment Mudflat Note: Not all symbols displayed above Entertainment appear on the maps in this book Park/Forest Shopping Sight (Building) Shopping Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Rebecca Milner Jeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do, Chungcheongnam-do Lucky for Rebecca, Korea is just a short flight from her home in Tokyo. Previous trips had already sold her on the charms of makgeolli and jjimjilbang, so she jumped at the chance to explore the country’s southern reaches for this edition. Highlights included eating live octopus in Mokpo, steaming in the saltwater baths in Hampyeong and having morning tea on the veranda of a 100-year-old home in Jeonju. Rebecca has also written Lonely Planet’s guides to Tokyo and Japan. Follow her on Twitter @tokyorebecca. Rebecca also wrote the Arts & Architecture chapter. Phillip Tang Gangwon-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Chungcheongbuk-do Phillip Tang spent this trip inviting himself to Korean homes, tagging along to local street eats and being out- hiked by Koreans twice his age bolting up mountains. He writes about travel on his two loves, Asia and Latin America, and has contributed to Lonely Planet’s guides to China, Japan, Mexico and Peru, and for other publishers. Find his photos, tweets and articles from this Korea visit through philliptang.co.uk. Phillip also wrote the In the Korean Kitchen, The Natural Environment and Survival Guide chapters. Rob Whyte Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do, Jeju-do A Busan resident for more than 15 years, Rob spends several weeks each year backpacking across the country in search of secluded getaways. One memorable discovery on this journey was a hamburger restaurant on Udo, which has an amazing collection of Anne of Green Gables memorabilia including a first edition of the book. That discovery was a reminder that we have everything we need for a magnificent journey. Rob also wrote the Korean People chapter. Contributing Author North Korea The author of our North Korea chapter has chosen to remain anonymous.

OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Coordinating author, Seoul UK-born writer and photographer Simon first co- ordinated Lonely Planet’s Korea guide in 2009 when he explored Seoul and its surroundings over several weeks. He liked the place so much that his next visit, to update the 9th edition of Korea and 7th edition of Seoul, saw him spend over two months living in Seoul and travelling down to Jeju-do. For Korea 10, Simon co-ordinated the general coverage of the country and covered central, northern and western areas of Seoul; he also hiked around the old city walls on a beautiful spring day and had an enjoyable but messy time learning to make magkeolli. Follow him on Twitter, Instagram and at www.simonrichmond.com. Simon also wrote the Plan Your Trip section, as well as the Korea Today and History chapters. Megan Eaves Lonely Planet’s North Asia Destination Editor, Megan has worked on Lonely Plan- et’s China guide and is a recent convert to the delights of the Korean peninsula. Originally from New Mexico, she is a mountain girl at heart and an avid skier. For this edition, she researched Korea’s winter activities, downing as much kimchi, fried chicken and soju as she could in between stints on the country’s many snowy slopes. You can follow her on Twitter @megoizzy. Megan contributed to the chapters Gangwon-do, Around Seoul, Chungcheongbuk-do and Jeollabuk-do. Read more about Megan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/meganeaves Trent Holden Around Seoul Having covered the length of the peninsula on other writing as- signments, this is Trent’s first gig working on the Korea book for Lonely Planet. He researched the regions surrounding Seoul, where he was blown away by the area’s diversity and beauty. Trent has worked on over 20 books for Lonely Planet, covering mainly Asia and Africa. You can catch him on twitter @hombreholden. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 10th edition – February 2016 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 500 5 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

E FGH JK LM Seoul SungkyunkwanUniversity Gyeongbokgung D3 Gwang j 1 rTehsetogrreadndGewsatHnogYfDhSEOwHeNoaWGmuAl’u-snpeanlatcraensc. We,icthhaitnsging- 6Dongsomaruinlcl-smro. iOaAtn’ntsnnekeiong of-guard ceremonies and several museums, it’s Jongno-gu; Seongbuk-ro to Euljiro 4- Hyehwa-ro a place you should set aside at least half a day to see. (www.royalpalace.go.kr/html/eng; bLine 3 to Gyeongbokgung, Exit 5) Jogye-sa E6 ¦# Hangsung N Seoul University 2 The headquarters of the JoHgyeyhewOarmduenr â#of m seongyo-ro Samseongyo-ro 167 One o Sa weath FathelievsetlaiKvdroaugrler.eis(nawtgnwtetBwhmu.ejodpcgdlSiyetheEybissO’uasmN.iskldGrpi/sieBnuhcsUgoetKiarmn/-cGeoSeunnUgelgtasoolorisumDLhlu.oa; n5Itet-u5urco-snUoLgjmeajoeennostgneg,runk- offers pan D the city m ro, Jongno-gu; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6) (www.nseo 3 & 5) Samcheong Namdaemun Market E10 KNoart-iegoialn a Park 3MYEO2N-GGAAyRotYutUhcNisanspfirnadwplirnegttryoumnudc-hthaen-ycltohcinkgm–afrrkoemt á# food and flowers to spectacles and camera 8 Korea Soyoam equipment. (www.namdaemunmarket.co.kr; marb adae-ro Changgyeonggung-ro SAMSEONtaGin-Ds OcuNlGtu 21 Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Jung-gu; bLine 4 to to the Jos Hoehyeon, Exit 5) Yeongyeongdang Seobinggo Samcheon g-ro GAHOE-DONG Gahoe â# Great 4DeoDkeDsoaukegsmuuygenoungngg -g(iPl alace War Me #æ #æ Greenhouse Minhwa Daehak-ro C8 9 The h Simsimheon Bukchon-roWorkshop of Virtuous Longevity) the h National â# Gyedong-gilâ#GYE- is the only one of the four main palaces that maps, art Children's Another Way Changdeokgung-gilDONG Dongsung-gil tary films Museum of Seeing #æ dmyeoooukscspuahgneurvneigsa.igtnoidn.ksrt;hebeeHetLyhvieneehewnb1aiuno#¦igrld2tiotnogeCsnijtio.#lylyuHmaalqli,nuEaixetietted2)r. at- (www.warm ational Folk â# â# Dong-Lim Huwon Chundangji (www. m of Korea â# Knot Workshop lonelyplanet.com 5 10#CGkudoymSâ#l#æOaGergphHgDunlGmeSP-ei#ætujetnrauGn-aueueOylooPuHKNSinaongnlgrDoooenOulâr#ælNgzaoiniagianetunssloga¦#nlNragMtyzGât#'lMâi#enY.#iNsyoEe-eaoCRGoBagieOjoerxHAneienngy-amCthtnSaop#æSoMlireunDiizCgieleoecbnuhtynkePMjhyCo.#OonpsCgienontMylounyooHHipahuEANseoH#æfletSâl#nuzpsxeoaiiAneSCGKHt-oraasehoinlacmnpaNlkiâ#oeNMauin;MAtâ#hnabgmguyrlmpGg-ehlaieKarâeo;#Lmto-obonGHââ##-amimujiroorabnokayaJkâ#nfernodSSMuuljeralegryHaennOetriM-arDyedgoarGyl;oJ-CmaulOlHgYODGGEDDDDHDCCHHIDCCCIIIB32SID1DSCilIAGCEHBIDnnnnnmeNsBuManurEGhtuaaahhhhoooooyeaJyyuNCwssssuEEtgTK1TrTdlaurnGdleoeeOseeemknnnnnuaaaooolaaaaau1juuuPneNiGega2idOtNalodNchmh-jnnnhgghgnm-----ksgNhnnnKtanen(Ch6IAbIP(mKiEJJneggG-radddddnnNhnwoyna%gggsshesww%gnoasoM-nnnyo3.otohUTysTiamt-o-mmthooooâ-g#o4oauknrlsduurugtIoTmnmaOâ#berraaeeeese-aefrLl1OmmoodaF1Giwt-nnnnnawm#ænogiRm5tyeigg0o-Lb0-ysr0oommslllinoirm-cgl-eha8nurosrggggn-a-e-ggoC6at-oTuFHJno2ssauG2AarDone-odL#¦rruCAgAena8gn--e-raoaouud-1ekgar1-uano4n571-mll1Krgmgm1oKeU1nigne1gotg7krpa(eK31J3nungga0nnlnc#¦oE-n3g-L333s%-txin8Fi3-ah-3n2ng-Ftyelegtrgu7eulo--sgA--r3-g1-oaH©yn3rBgM4eirrFti4-n-cMgrK-oioMlggnr0islan02oo1ile6Jjrocld1Jate6L9elt.á#iTBintuFT4ogi00nFpl1)o#æJhru-rroyr1MlctEi,GmoA;CMoc6je2oIn-FolIdc62m3oe1nnsDeBeonf4nwiae;uw)6,e6sg41io2ge1gweasoon3f8krnL;¤#nwNsir-n-g2ueaonnen,kJgnIysnbiitr­amwBnS-)trsmyrAâ#ouigraooD(tgdonk;mseeSCNt.uhan%,wvbMA,WIoL-OaosJtaInaikaIkAJJJJSJJSSMNMSSMJNSNSSSKSSJSJSPSSSEgrDdaMKPJSNsnlianunn-#æN¦#aonbGencmsaSaaioooouoxNImineoeaeaaaeaaaaoaat1idiosltaoaggntOnCifayarmkdclJ33EEC1ECahpieSrinh1nnnnnnCGiakgAmomjeojmmommjmteapgoYosjummogsrGsneoe6ioihjr991g-oua398o20aoN1oagkkiealgggggug5atm3dssnouea-nrdsanUnrn3lCNo-uegoStn-)1trhrgenassibciin-e----kmco.#¦n-nmdd-----ocmguoo-aCulnll-lgggoGehodan5-9-rgnarrte-g---gtrrrrrKTeeu,th-duCer-rohilugaamDelLnoToonabnglindddugooooobtoohMrgRaoyligua;-5ioohlCutreonn-ualehs-ieel.1ggr-MTugdnru6laaai#æhIhloeiAtienM-8B-tnernnn1934FeuGrhonlilcGea0arn-Eygnemm-galdocoieeearaekeoo---Fogsnyg1oChg--7GHGgg5n11no-.nDedbCNM-t1s52igDfngr6kk-omarrregerC1ln1ge9,--oagriCei7uusMo1yytoF-n1ger-ioooEoawldYdrSl-ie--ggWOoeâa1#W8nr-i-toaArdlari-.Jloruore0oodg;nnglsr1Gnal-plorldi9tanoFBiioumo8afEnmgDCFmlCoooieoro#æuknC0rtollNEri--Fl-aetfgKln5w1ltoBnog,Nbtn-rr53neJLrnh,Ogn;tCie6t4C76er6-r-Js1anfgooJGo-p1hedd#¦iEg6o81e-6-Ndayyeyrngnr#æ96rap7-7f9Iio4yeo3rTbxpnnooLollodogat--n1sle#æniesYrmCeig9r2nSAorn0nt.Ntfaos-gaoarogdEgDnw-;-kelAnrndgUmgDyJÜ#mOo¤#oentiV#,RGulAnh.#OnSeuysBrNkaehWCGPMDHTTCRAGBDSCHYSEUJESNTEHDCJSJTGYSagtNioVUYTCUHæ##ælpuNmtnooooouuyGriuuuuooeu4nlea,hhihuoooywwjyaoaipaBamSarsBBabhTIdwimkayGtEOPUKCSHeadlaeneCnnnnGslndo-oolllwuepleorpg-ibnnnpeuunndymeeebgcô#egujjjnuuwaaaâ#oeuzaqolniguMkin1giiiiu-tngggTipeNuohytredteuiolSsdvhgggngnrrrrhowsoo5wsonnbsglHc0peyrnTacrwlnhá#iyotyisngncoooioorStaRalnYsnwDaktg-nCjddstgy,lggokwo.#ævynlk-Pekeaggwraige-fiSCAsaeg3-eago.aspupaaBoonkis-nisiCnuguaeMuo--e,giuaanmjn143rna6anpgargciFhhtw-rngLeoy0yumotrlryaekrrrnuiiuesdocoo-Sno1amobahlnrAgleegrhSrtoknSpah53-de-gin5ooiBywwtsggoi8uunnKoaySse1oinbncou,ktDgmbfgertcSnEmatoegmmaSuaotguFtsyrB--oDtUaimCoiosnGikg-gunoeu&taawit)NGPW-3laaraCagigmorletfs7uspelk9r1sCt9teneoo-D9eg-odnMoc1dhnkgylnmmuunCarA7arEaanoy3ab5gad-ilâsmC#acarHJnriK2g1udeCnonriarair-g.mnD-1elntnnorisy8losoHCLoumt-1a-i8td1rivKG1i9wSuuip.mt0gnD8srasU12vuLS,noEdotFnoi0mo-i1(P5eineCi,Ebd1ELt4nnoo7Juoetgeld6oI0nw6tlsa4q1WOtniNa0rEraAatgeK7ai6e9Tmrnapmhdnhn0a-no(reD%suDwxnsyngnHy7iaNNch1awkireSaCbnrissrgi;oetgOtew603ouxlto-K1(oeea:tGIya5Echret&nshlwd12i.ibawo-mSDeiNpbtnax3tasdOe(ax-buCwce.o:tunodh%ug/Gn0iTeCroshtN.Y/swnnh.Rcaishrbtu-aea.olsAAJAJIIAHJGIYSYGAMGUYTSSSSSYNNASGSCSCSDPDNGN/-oh.urEi.-gg0IakhnelesrJnvrteeeaaanonuoxDâ#o.adsaeoeoeehignmnowooiaahhMwyynaaieyaagAsoom2nkweyhMrgWUMMSlinagcjokrnnjlnnom.iojooommnggeerenngonaOrheiauiuhegmenrep1e-kai.yeag,iJâs#Tjgagatineihrtkgnwg)gk1uo1tnucdoo-yhanenaguutsognoocownnrissStJamumntfusANcciny-c6-dt-d-mhghus-r;niHtehmsraambnngld-.aweguuokjsnnggnetg-Wvtdeddenhocghghotaud#æâ4h#dsaoeebeNSeiedoboorMuuGnolree-ibagg-anessllg-g-so-oyoooaaolegauhluneeat--vo4Mndvonodrunddood-knoroteumens--igurYiju.ruddGknn,-evnDrnun-1nsnnue¦#ne-gearkdd-no5nesgWmo-yroouHmoand2bm-dtkinkedg2irEoogDdpg’gBdgdagrVd-oti-ua4y-gu.icosuoon-pgnSeunn2r-ngC-o)t3-godF8igdon-nans.do-ibeonl7uaeod4dgnhu©y;nwcnnrgGLdiAgd5u3JggEdg0nhB3nFoogHnyonggu¦#Btrnuonunnoonocuologg55-onooiC55e5sag2Ae4ngFln8Fng2EGgCstgn.nan-ngho5innCCoo;nan-.krmnJ3CshK--5g0G1D1#¦g8ag3l/SKgYg-Hf6g4ngFgg-rlldoFgh15N4E0-gu1l1L2N)9-1EngieaM615gLDn195s-EJn41eLM0aLao1Mo-0a5gP#æ4u1’eJ9g5k2s1mn1n3al27y1sjCgroieesrkaTn-oaoJcSpyinnhme3ôe#sqNejo-â#JauoAAABBABBBgeoona#æelnanrrarr¦#uuoonPVeHgmSMSVakttgnasnkkgissjaoreiPlje#æ#ærkiccmulslgeoiinCnlaedkAooahhAassoonMghogyienCegn#æoonurfnMJj#æoauSkeeyutegEKnnogCdCnkaeumConCoaF4mhgGTHEGoEslgereP4rmea3Jeone75aEcamnaonnGauhnugn9drtnPtgremysjke1oMieeagogto3iorkrinrJomyoonV#ikKEdUnnenngIy44agoNNeaonjnyleDHGggoOY-gnGuUNCCCCCCCCUnNGhhehhhhhgMCTHeenGaaeeeeou4outnoonom-nrlnsnnnggtagugepdgdggl-g-r#¦ulByewwoegeymeoguyaaeFCoEkye-ddd5#æcuEngeodaaPgwCChlS6ngujeeMheolihagaGMtenrThoi.eUDoszkouaagsnoKHwrataar2nunr4neDmAG/bioFreamDlig-nggmv7Yk4sgu4NunU7oyedspaeEgianagerslanietJtisOttdn-jnntaaeioriaiMotan/NgonbSelCDCCDDDsykngnmeoeeeGoccoaiiueogtgattMCSPSD-UhkdonhaaeoonlyirulEkutzaae-oieungiolukuegucnrenHiOnrroWsndlimgosgsadravtkn.ieugNaadtehuNeigleanusoefaLellatCguanrle(uSgn-m2mmr8HsrnDDtuPm-moctllP8riliUdaanop;touly8hoaOgl4lyDunbtlenCgnaoallfHi1N niaogoazCrDe5HvCS5anaeeclnGLe18#¦iC8tregsrer1i&hyntgs3iooJ5tioeuActuMaro-kyfy3grJô#enlgtaa’aI¦#gnstlernPlonrtucfapoouAoPhsrDGGGGDDDnrraknuutonooooyaaaarrgâ#nMWSWMrMkip.ilhlnnnnnuegllotmee(uooeogggghearudkCAhurrsmrrd-ygewdr,sayyatkkLreesLetEuaeniEtaDkMssouiiunHSyoopeumxnnVuomhhormmtcin:iimmyailmennt/ooiDApakjguruK/irgnh3ppMul-4ratjonenâ#dnrew)MtdunlFFnno8dDaooaG&ae338getaotnCc4)hm.inCce4DEeguduHs5d4lngt,4a&u.eHrICmeHiusuPWtltGGGGGGGGnoauCArrJrwwwweuoHrkESUESyeAH-eunnaiaaaaxxqDq¦#nsÜ#NnsgDnUtPnnnhhutudOijGigoDagggiinGOeaNsaebbrrhKPCNrhhjirdoOrrakyCieiNGewgRetytrwwhnaGneiiNeH#¦urMGSooaeunDgDnaagoIsnhmnlnGrgUjIhommaiu#æb6ecMcNgwNnoenHDyNuHohsdGuuPguaa-utadnn6a6oGnneadskWlrlenrrasDkl-DkiDaAegDeHa55nmtOn8N3uNGD#æn#¦CGHDouHnDD&HHHHGGHHHGGHoUlâ#MitSgns#æeouyyyyeaeaaewuIPJtdte-gsneeeorukummuwoMSa7aaamiedgoootgHâr#nnngderboea#¦nmuyadnnnoPkgggnoeomioneyuseaagggjC&nihurueaDnjPneemmuYrHeiehbhywnlHraegkuojalOnmoiiouoeaC3glumnakmDnAEGnmeizkNiinsmuggng4tOagNâr#uSplOSMauDynuGjejuuMuieunlataNGmnl4oWnraDenorlnDmMDHMaMignGSktyrenguDaA4niBgyoig.ouaBI7nslscm5D&EDlcnNa7CnFstjo6,hWoakMg48e6,7-.mCRpojFrkdnEuioThhUyea,nragmxiueof;EthstNSamcheong-roYunposun-gilIhwajang-gil G a m godang-gil Samil-daero Seosulla-gil Changgyeonggung-ro Jong-ro 1-gil Ujeongguk-ro Donhwamun-ro Daehak-ro Yulgok-roJong-ro 41-gil Jong-ro 9 -gil Insa-dong-g il Jong-ro 31-gil Samil-daero Supyo-ro Namdaemun-ro Dongho-ro Chungmu-roNamdaemun-ro Changgyeonggung-ro Supyo-ro Samil-daero Jangchungdan-ro Dasan-ro Sogong-ro w Dongho-ro Sopa-ro w w Northern Na w 2nd Namsan Tunnel 1st Namsan Tunnel ww ww rn Na Dasan-ro uit

AB C DE F GH Greater Seoul e# 0 5 km GANGBUK- NOWON- 0 2.5 miles GU GU jang Market J7 1 Bukhansan GOYANG-SI EUNPYEONG-GU NaPtaiorknal of Seoul’s best markets. During the day nown for secondhand clothes and fab- ght its alleys fill up with vendors selling 1er of street eats. (88 Changgyeonggung-ro, JUNGNANG- ; bLine 1 toJongno-5ga, Exit 8, or Line 2 or 5 GU -ga, Exit 4) Achasan Bukaksan (278m) (342m) SEONGBUK- l Tower F13 Baengnyeonsan R GU R (216m) of Seoul’s most iconic features. If the R Inwangsan her’s fine, the tower’s observation deck 2 GANGSEO- MAPO-GU (338m) R IHWA- GU Han River SEODAEMUN- DONG noramic views. At sunset you can watch Gimpo GU morph into a galaxy of twinkling lights. International R DONGDAEMUN-GU Ansan JONGNO-GU GWANGJIN-GU 3 Airport (Hangang) (296m) oultower.com; Namsan; gshuttle buses 2, World SEONGDONG- Cup Park GU 2 al Museum of Greater Seoul E4 HONGDAE SINCHON Namsan SeoPnayrkudo Hyochang (262m) a’s National Museum occupies a grand, Park R Central Seoul (see reverse) ble-lined, modernist complex, and con- War Memorial Gural treasures from prehistoric times of Korea seon dynasty. (www.museum.go.kr; 137 BUCHEON-SI YEONGDEUNGPO- #æ Han River (Hangang) YANGCHEON-GU GU -ro; bLine 1 or 4 to Ichon, Exit 2) YONGSAN-GU YEOUIDO æ# emorial o3f Korea Greater Seoul E3 National Olympic #æ Museum Park huge memorial museum documents of Korea history of warfare in Korea, with photos, tefacts and black-and-white documen- 4 GURO-GU DONGJAK-1 1 1 GANGNAM-GU GU 1 N1ation1al 1 that give a fascinating insight into war. C1 em1eter1y memo.co.kr; 29 Itaewon-ro; bLine 4 or 6 to Exit 12) 1111 111 ic Park Greater Seoul H4 Daemosan (293m) his large and pleasant park, a focus R R 4f the 1988 Olympics, also contains gal­ Umyeonsan 5 Seoul National R SONGPA-GU useums and sculptures. (www.olympic University (290m) Guryongsan ; 424 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu; bLine 8 to SEOCHO-GU GWANAK-GU (283m) toseong, Exit 1 or Line 5 to Olympic Park xit 3) 5 6 7 N-GU 8 shion olesale tail Area g-ro aemun m 9 eonggu #¦ 10 o 11 ww Hyangwonjeong D3 Kukje E4 N Seoul Tower F13 Museum of Sajikdan B5 Library D8 Sungnyemun C10 Neighbourhoods Gwangjin-gu G2 Songpa-gu H5 Hyehwamun K2 Kyungdong Nakseonjae H4 Korea D3 Sejong Gallery D6 Seoul Museum of Tteok Museum G5 Hongdae C3 Yangcheon-gu A4 Ihwa Maeul L5 Namdaemun National Museum SeMA Unhyeongung F5 Bucheon-si A3 Ihwa-dong F2 Yeongdeungpo-gu C3 Presbyterian of Korean Art D9 Waryongmyo F12 Dongdaemun-gu F2 Jongno-gu E2 Yeouido D4 Injeongjeo1n2G4 Church L9 Market E10 Contemporary Gyeonghuigung Seoul Museum of Yeongnyeongjeon H5 Dongjak-gu D4 Jungnang-gu H2 Yongsan-gu E3 Lock Museum K4 Namsan Outdoor History D6 Museum of Art B7 Yeongyeongdang H3 Eunpyeong-gu D1 Mapo-gu C2 Jean Art Gallery C4 MMCA Deoksugung National Palace Seokjojeon; Daehan History B7 Gangbuk-gu F1 Nowon-gu G1 Sights Jeonggwanheon D8 Botanical Garden Museum of Korea Empire History Seoul Plaza D8 GREATER Gangnam-gu F4 Seocho-gu F5 Jeongjeon H5 C8 Museum C8 Simsimheon F3 SEOUL Gangseo-gu A2 Seodaemun-gu D2 National Museum Jogye-sa E6 MMCA Seoul E4 H15 D5 Seoul Animation Sool Gallery F6 Goyang-si A1 Seongbuk-gu F2 of Korea E4 Jongmyo H6 Mokin Museum F6 Namsangol Hanok Open Air Exhibition Center F10 Soyoam H3 Transport Guro-gu A4 Seongdong-gu G3 Jongno Tower E7 Myeong-dong Seoul City Wall Spring Sculpture D7 Gimpo Airport A3 Gwanak-gu D5 Sinchon D3 Olympic Park H4 Junghwajeon C8 Village H10 E4 Museum M6 Stone Pagoda of War Memorial of Catholic National Children’s PLATEAU C10 Seoul Metropolitan King Sejong1S3tatue D6 Cathedral F9 Ryugaheon C4 Wongak-sa G6 Korea E3 Museum E3 Sun Art Center F6 Myeongjeongjeon H4 National Folk

A BCDE FGH J K LM Central Seoul e# 0 200 m HYEHWA- 0 0.1 miles DONG Dongsomun-ro 1 w Seongbuk-ro 1 w Ch an guimun-ro Hyehwa-ro #¦ Hangsung University Sungkyunkwan University Hyehwamun â# Sam seongyo-ro Samseongyo-ro 16 SEONGBUK-GonUgsomun-ro Inw a n gsan-ro D 2 -g il 2 â# Cheongwadae SAMSEONG-DONG 3 Samcheong MYEONGRYUN Park 2-GA Pirund ae-ro Cheongwadae-ro á# Changgyeonggung-ro Soyoam 3 Cheongwadae Sarangchae #æ Yeongyeongdang â# Samcheon g-ro GAHOE-DONG Gahoe Great Daemyeong-gil #æ Minhwa #æ Greenhouse Daehak-ro Bukchon-ro Hyangwonjeong â# National Simsimheon Gyedong-gilWorkshopGYE- â# Changdeokgung-gilâ#DONG I nwa ng s a n-ro Children's Another Way Dongsung-gil Museum of Seeing Dong-Lim #æ National Folk â# â# Knot Workshop Huwon Chundangji Hyehwa #¦ .# Museum of Korea â# Amisan #æ Open Air â# Samcheong Seoul National NPaakrskan Exhibition Park GYEO- University Arko Art Hyoja-ro Gyeonghoeru â#Gangyeongjeon Kukje DONG Medical College ô# â# Center Jahamun-ro Pirundae-ro SDAOJNIGKMGy-euSosGanejyigukehmSPdoPSauaanaSjPIiornjiggRikeakfkV#hu#ærMU-AruknoNrAGigtg-yuâ#DenOognNgGhSuiegoouSfunHlEgMâ#iOsutCosHreyuOmNHDaá#GCmAyToNAemAnODorrGRteSntOtNesryJgaMmiNiGunbUdSjDugiogpGUe-kaaskaGDoS-Ieâ#ehge-rraOi¦#â#muumaoelâ#lilnrmNmoeu8oygnrGnn-â#UyGâ#GganwiwnldGJSa-aKeMernaenoNarilgjnugglonaeGhgshrntrAowwewiygSâ#ouuraaaetnGnnmmmjadgoaluhnoulElPwnegfnxaGraKhSSSylmGaoy#æiqtqbâ#cwarueuGuieettnoaaauiae000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000#¦onrnreueneg000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000g;ná#hâ#æ#â#æ#ájbâ#e000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000w#æSooSSAaHpnktdumâ#aerggnGmitujnu-ueuyHNKSingnrDooengaoiiantnsognlratât#'â#enY.#isyoeoagiejrnengymaouClnunM.#onnuHtseSaemakuâ#mgmpâo#obHGââ##joraoayafenSSMulrlgyenOeM-rDdorGyoJCuaOYOilANBMEJNCuGOoueGdsgKnJdNeoyt-hâ#urnOâ#eai#æmgs-l-gtsGCAaaUkre¦#tnstMoeJá#Tno#æurMojInsenwegsoueankIBn-rmâo#idnsuAoakADn-#æN#¦GcIndgOnhSCGagos9oNoluunaUl-nekog-ClgGtKdrilTluhy5o-rTr#æIe-nnaegeosgGHdCimaCln7iawSe-â#-tAdJedgplinualooioo#ænrleltnbtnengntere¦#goyaygrIrnnol-1#æsrgA0Naon--AdgUgDoiV#Guln.#OnBkhWgVH#æuNy4iakOleG-lcô#gnaoNihoglTná#SYo-PkeagiuaMnanpuoSmlArSggunSkftaoroisgoPWamll-eknArdâ#iuoi-DelCo-armnDUdooPeEgInaONraKahoeDgNNwkSrO3oo-aGIEsd2-mDN3aOa-CougG0Nnnhi-l-h-gIarnâ#woinMlje1agâ#Tu1om-tdsnge#æâ#eeuigolunojk¦#emkognJ3u#¦o-gnnJ3aYggoN-ngenaaoog#æknnsgoenoJyneôe#joâ#Jaoon#æennPggagjje#ærmekooMyn#ænJ#æoyoCenhGogaJonmonngnPgysjeaggionromyV#kdneyagoonjneggognung Seoul National Marronnier University Park Lock â# Hospital Museum 5746 7564w Yunposun-gil Samcheong-ro G a m godang-gil YEONGEON-DONG Ihwajang-gil Changgyeonggung-ro IHWA-DONG CHANGSIN- #æ DONG Samil-daero Seosulla-gil Ihwa Maeul Gwanghwamun Sq CHUNGSIN- DONG Jong-ro 1-gil Ujeongguk-ro Donhwamun-ro Kimsan go k-ro Daehak-ro Yulgok-roJong-ro 41-gil Sejong- Jong-ro 9 -gil Insa-dong-g il Jong-ro 31-gil Seoul City Wall daero â# Museum Samil-daero Supyo-ro Jongno #¦ #æ Heunginjimun #¦5-ga Dongdaemun #æ Man Sculpture Bosingak #æ Gwangjang Heunghwamun Market Sejong-daero á# #æ #æ gCyhee-ocnhge-on Namdaemun-ro DONGDAEMUN-GU Cheong- gye Plaza Cheong-gye-cheon Dongho-ro Dongdaemun Fashion Stadium Wholesale Memorial & Retail Area â# City Hall; M ajang-ro Deoksug Seokjojeon; Seoul Metropolitan Library; â# Dongdaemun Daehan Empire Jeonggwanheon JUNG-GU Dongdaemun History History Museum Citizens Hall; History & â# Agriculture Gungisi Relics Exhibition Hall Euljiro 4-ga

8 Museum gung-gil â# â# â#æ #¦Euljiro 3-ga #¦ Eulji-ro Culture Park Museum 8 Junghwajeon #æ Dongdaemun 9 Seodaemun #¦ MMCA â# â# â# Seoul Seoul City Euljiro 1-ga Eulji-ro Dongdaemun History #¦ Deoksugung Plaza Shopping #¦ & Culture Park #æ Design Plaza 9 & Park #æ Hamnyeongjeon Plaza Dongho-ro Changgyeonggung-ro Deoksugung Chungmu-ro Seoul â# Supyo-ro GWANGHUI- Museum Samil-daero DONG of Art #¦City Hall Sogong-roNamdaemun-roMyeong-dong-gil Mareunnae-ro Dongdaemun History INHYUNG- & Culture Park ¦# DONG Seosomun-ro Myeong-dong Ü# SOGONG- Catholic Cathedral Kyungdong DONG Ü# Presbyterian Tongil-ro Toegye-ro Church Bank of Korea Jangchungdan-ro Money Museum â# Dasan-ro PLATEAU â# Jungmuro w w ¦# Chungmuro #¦ Myeongdong w Sungnyemun #æ Namdaemun w Jilpae-gil ô# #æ Market w YEAJANG- DONG 10 Cheonggu #¦ 10 Seoul Namsangol ¦# Chungjeongno Sejong-daero #¦ Hoehyeon NAMSAN- â# Animation Hanok Dongguk #¦ DONG YEJANG- Center Village University 11 DONG #æ 12 NAMCHANG- Sopa-ro Time DONG Capsule Janchungdan #÷ Toegye-ro Namsan msan Circuit Sq Park 11 Skygarden ¤# Cable Car Namsan 12 Culture 13 #æ Station Station Northern Na Park JANGCHUNG- DONG £# Seoul Seoul 284 Sopa-ro #¦ Yaksu Seoul 1st Namsan Tunnel #¦ Station wwSowol-ro #æ 3rd Namsan TunnelWaryongmyo wwâ#Ahn Jung-geun Memorial Hall Huam-ro Upper Cable 2nd Namsan Tunnel Jangchungdan-ro ¤#Car Station #æ Bongsudae Namdaemun æ# ww N Seoul Towmesran Southern Na Circ Dasan-ro uit 13 R Namsan (262m) Legend Beotigogae #¦ 14 Routes Tollway 14 Freeway Primary Rd Sookmyung Secondary Rd Women's Tertiary Rd #¦ University Lane Path Pedestrian St/Steps Transport Cable Car ww Subway w 15 Areas Train #¦ Namsan Outdoor 15 Cemetery Namyeong Botanical Garden Park #æ Sportsground Water Feature GARWOL-DONG ww A BC DE FGH J K L M

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’