[Lonely Planet] Seoul

199 Cover photograph: Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park (DDP), Seoul, Inigo Bujedo Aguirre / Alamy BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Destination Editor Megan Susan Paterson, Amanda Eaves Williamson This 8th edition of Lonely Cover Researcher Planet’s Seoul guidebook Coordinating Editor Campbell McKenzie was researched and written Monique Perrin Thanks to Dan Corbett, by Trent Holden and Simon Product Editors Kate Ryan Evans, Andi Jones, Richmond. Simon wrote the Chapman, Anne Mason Anne Mason, Claire Murphy, previous edition and the 6th Wayne Murphy, Claire Nay- edition was written by Mar- Senior Cartographer lor, Karyn Noble, Martine tin Robinson with assistance Corey Hutchison Power, Samantha Russell-­ from Jason Zahorchak. This Book Designer Wibowo Tulip, Diana Saengkham, guidebook was produced by Rusli Jaeyoon Shin, Vicky Smith, the following: Senior Editors Andi Jones, Lyahna Spencer, Angela Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble Tinson, Lauren Wellicome Assisting Editors Lauren O’Connell, Charlotte Orr,

200 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index See also separate subindexes for: 5 EATING P203 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P204 3 ENTERTAINMENT P204 7 SHOPPING P205 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P205 4 SLEEPING P205 63 Square 88 art galleries 13, 19, 58, see Bukhansan National Park costs 14, 30, 146, 188 313 Art Project 111 also individual galleries 28, 139 free attractions 25 A art villages 13, 88, 100 bus travel 185-6 counselling services 192 arts 179-82 business hours 30, 190 courses 26-7, 42, 83 accommodation 15, 145-54, Artside 58 crafts 13, 40 see also Sleeping Artsonje Center 58 bars & clubs 34 credit cards 190 subindex, individual Asia Publication Culture & shops 39 cruises 94 neighbourhoods culture 157, 174-5 children, travel with 23 Information Center (Paju C Culture Station Seoul 284 77 language 194 Book City) 137 currency 14 templestays 26, 110 ATMs 190 cable cars 73 customs regulations 188 websites 15 cafes 33 cycling 42, 87, 186 B car travel 186-7 activities 20-2, 42, 43, Caribbean Bay 138 D see also Sports & Baegundae 139 cat cafes 92 Activities subindex, bang 24, 36 cathedrals 19, 78, 88, 144 Daehan Empire History individual activities, Bank of Korea Money CDs 40 Museum 75 neighbourhoods cell phones 14, 191 Museum 78 Central Buddhist Museum 55 Daehangno 226-7, see also addresses 15, 190 bars 34, 35, see also ceramics 181 northern Seoul Agriculture Museum 78 Ahn Jung-geun Memorial Drinking & Nightlife Changdeokgung 9, 52, 8 Daelim Contemporary Art subindex Changgyeonggung 127 Museum 57 Hall 77 baseball 41, 117 chemists 189-90 airports 184-5 basketball 42 Cheondogyo Temple 60 dance 37, 80, 115, 182 alcohol 39, 167, see also bathrooms 191-2 Cheong-gye-cheon 7, 56, dangers, see safety beer 13, 27, 35, 102, 167 Dapsimni Antiques beer, makgeolli Blume Museum of 121, 56 ambulance 188 Contemporary Art Cheonggyecheon Museum Market 123 amusement parks 23, 109, (Heyri) 136 Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) boat travel 186 121 112-13, 138, 109 Bomun-sa (Ganghwado) 144 Cheongwadae 59 11, 134-5, 11 animal cafes 23, 92 Cheongwadae Sarangchae 59 Deoksugung 75 Another Way of Seeing 60 Bongeun-sa 110, 45 Chichipopo Library 88 department stores 38, Ansan 132 Bongsudae 73 children, travel with 23 antiques 13, 39, 123, 126 books 156 Children’s Grand Park 121 40, see also Shopping Apgujeong 228-9 Christianity 174 subindex architecture 176 churches 19, 78, 88, 144 directions 195 shopping 24, 38, 116-17 culture 175 cinema 36, 37, 182 disabilities, travellers apps 186, 194 food 164, 166 Citizens Hall 76 with 192 April Revolution 160 history 159 City Hall 13, 76 discounts 39 aquariums 88, 110 Bosingak 62 City Wall 19, 28, 73, 121, 132 DMZ 11, 134-5, 11 Arario Museum in SPACE breweries 102 climate 15, 20-2 dog cafes 92 Bridge of No Return 134 climbing 139-42 Dongdaemun (Heunginjimun) 13, 59 Buddhism 173-4 clubs 34, 35, see also 12, 121, 12 archery 73, 138 budgeting 14, see also costs Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul architecture 18, 19, 25, 86, free attractions 25 Drinking & Nightlife 9, 12, 47, 118-23, 8, 12, 225 Bukaksan 132 subindex Dongdaemun Design Plaza 176-8, 18 Bukchon, see Insa-dong, COEX Aquarium 110 & Park 120, 18 Gangnam 47 Bukchon & coffee 35 Dongdaemun History area codes 191 Samcheong-dong Confucianism 173 Museum 120 Arko Art Center 127 Bukchon Hanok Village 7, consulates 188 Dongdaemun Market 122, 123 53, 208-9 convenience stores 34 Dongdaemun Stadium Sights 000 Bukchon Traditional Culture cosmetic surgery 116, 156-7 Memorial 120 Map Pages 000 Center 53 Dongjin Market 13, 89, 94 Photo Pages 000 Dong-Lim Knot Workshop 53

201 Dora Observatory 134 Ganghwa Anglican Church Hanagae Beach islands 142 INDEX D-K Dorasan Train Station 135 (Ganghwado) 144 (Muuido) 142 drinking 33-5, see Itaewon 47, 95-105, 222-3 Ganghwa History Museum handicrafts 74 accommodation 152 also Drinking & Nightlife (Ganghwado) 144 hangeul 97, 112, 161 activities 105 subindex, individual hanok 13, 19, 53, 177 drinking & nightlife neighbourhoods Ganghwa Peace HBC Art Village 100 96, 101-3 drinks 167, 171, see also Observation Deck health 189 entertainment 104 beer (Ganghwado) 144 Heunginjimun food 96, 99-101 DVDs 40 highlights 95-8, 99 Ganghwado 143-4 (Dongdaemun) 121, 12 shopping 104-5 E Gangnam & South of the Heungnyemun 50 transport 96 Eastern Seoul, see  Han River 47, 106-17, Heyri 12, 136-7, 178, 12 itineraries 16-17 Dongdaemun & 228-9, 230 hiking 19, 24, 25, 28, Eastern Seoul accommodation 152-4 J activities 117 132, 144 economy 161 architecture 47 history 158-62 Jamsil 230 electricity 189 drinking & nightlife 107, Hoam Art Museum 138 Jamsil Baseball Stadium 117 electronics 39, 40 114-15 holidays 190 Japanese Colonisation 158 embassies 188 entertainment 115-16 Homo Hill 104 Jayu Park (Incheon) 140 emergencies 188, 196 food 107, 113-14 Hongdae 10, 84-94, jazz 37, 116, 131 entertainment 36-7, see highlights 106-9, 110 Jean Art Gallery 58 shopping 107, 116-17 218-19, 11 Jeoldusan Martyrs’ also Entertainment sights 108-13 accommodation 150-1 subindex, individual sports 117 activities 94 Shrine 86 neighbourhoods transport 107 drinking & nightlife 91-2 Jeondeung-sa ethnic groups 157 Gangnam Style ‘Horse entertainment 93 etiquette 34, 164, 167, 175 Dance’ Stage 111 food 85, 89-91 (Ganghwado) 143 Eulwangri Beach 142 gardens & parks 19 highlights 10, 84-5 Jeonju transport 186 events 10, 20-2, 25, 37, gay travellers 34, 35, 68, shopping 93-4 Ji-dong Mural Village 10, 22 104, 188-9 sports 94 Everland 138 Geunjeongjeon 51 transport 85 (Suwon) 139 Ewha Womans University 86 Gilsang-sa 129 Horim Museum 111 jjimjil-bang 24, 42, 43, 83 golfing 42 Huwon 9, 52 Jogye-sa 55 F Goryeogungji Palace Hwabong Gallery 58 Joint Security Area 134 (Ganghwado) 144 Hwaseong Haenggung ferry travel 186 Gungisi Relics Exhibition (Suwon) 138 Jongmyo 54, 54 festivals & events 10, 20-2, Hall 76 Hwaseong (Suwon) 137-8 Jongmyo Daeje 21 Gwacheon National Hyehwamun 127, 129 Jongno-gu, see  25, 37, 10, 22 Science Museum 112 Fifty Fifty 111 Gwanghwamun & I Gwanghwamun & Filipino Sunday Market 132 Jongno-gu 46, 48-70, Jongno-gu films 156, 182 208-9, 210-11, 3, 6-7, ice skating 42, 41 Joseon dynasty 122 fire 188 8, 50 Ihwa Maeul 127 JSA (Joint Security Folk Museum (Lotte accommodation 148-9 Imjingak 135 Area) 134 drinking & nightlife 49, Jungang Market 89, 122 World) 109 66-8 Incheon 140-3, 141 Jung-gu, see Myeong-dong Folk Museum (Suwon) 138 entertainment 68 Incheon Art Platform & Jung-gu food 29-32, 163-7, 29, food 49, 63-6 highlights 7, 9, 48-56 (Incheon) 140 K 31, see also Eating shopping 49, 68-70 Incheon Grand Fishery subindex, individual sights 50-62 karaoke 93 neighbourhoods transport 49 Market (Incheon) 140 Kim II Sung 159 books 164, 166 walks 61 Incheon Landing Operation kimchi 166 costs 30 Gwanghwamun Square 57 K-Indie 10, 37, 181 courses 26-7, 83 Gwangjang Market 9, 122, Memorial Hall Korea Furniture Museum language 168-71, 195 123, 3, 8 (Incheon) 142 opening hours 30 Gyeongbokgung 50-1, 17, 50 Incheon Metropolitan City 13, 126, 126 websites 30 Gyeonghoeru 51 Museum (Incheon) 142 Korea House 80 fortune-telling 174 Gyeonghuigung 57, 59 Incheon Open Port Korea Whal Culture free attractions 25 Museum (Incheon) 141 Freedom Bridge 135 H Insa-dong, Bukchon & Association 73 Samcheong-dong G Haenggung-dong Mural 212-13, 3, 17 Korean barbecue 164, 29 Village (Suwon) 139 drinking & nightlife 66-8 Korean Folk Village Gahoe Minhwa Workshop 53 food 64-6 galleries 13, 19, 58 Hakgojae 58 shopping 69-70 (Suwon) 138-9 Gallery Hyundai 58 Hammering Man 57 sights 58, 59-62 Korean language 14, 27, 194-7 Gallery Simon 58 internet access 189 Korean War 159 Gallery SoSo (Heyri) 136 Inwangsan 128, 132 K-Pop 37, 111, 181-2 Inwangsan Guksadang 130 K-Star Road 111 KT&G SangsangMadang 86 Kukje 58 K-Wave Experience 111

IN D E X l- S202 Modern Architecture National Palace Museum of politics 156-7, 161-2 Museum (Incheon) 141 Korea 51 population 157 L postal services 190 Modern Design Museum 86 newspapers 191 pottery 39, 181 language 14, 194-7 Mokin Museum 60 nightlife 33-5, see public holidays 190 courses 27 money 14, 30, 146, 188, 190 also Drinking & R Leeum Samsung Museum bargaining 39 Nightlife subindex of Art 99 Mongchon Museum 108 noodles 166, 169 radio 191 motorcycle travel 186 North Korea 157, 159 Real DMZ Project 58 lesbian travellers 34, 35, mountains 19 northern Seoul 47, 124-32, religion 172-4 68, 104, 188-9 Mr Toilet House (Suwon) restaurants 29-30 226-7 rice wines 39, see also LGBT Film Festival 68 139 Noryangjin Fish Market 90 literature 180, see also Mt Manisan (Ganghwado) numbers 197 makgeolli royal tombs 122, 176 books 144 O Ryugaheon 58 live music 36, 181 Mullae Arts Village 13, 88 local life 24 Mullae-dong 88, 89 observation decks 73, 88, S Lock Museum 127 Museum of Gugak 112 111, 134-5, 142, 144 Lotte World 109, 41, 109 museums 18-19, 25, safety 190-1 Lotte World Tower 13 Odusan Unification Sajik Daeje 21 Lotus Lantern Festival (Yeon see also individual Observatory 135 Sajikdan 59 museums Samcheong-dong, see Deung Ho) 10, 21, 10, 22 music 10, 36, 37, 80, 181-2, Olympic Park 108, 108 lunar calendar 20 5, see also jazz, K-Pop opening hours 30, 34, Insa-dong, Bukchon & Muuido 142 Samcheong-dong M Myeong-dong Catholic 39, 190 Samsung D’Light 112 Cathedral 78 Opera Gallery 111 Sejong Gallery 57 magazines 191 Myeong-dong & Jung-gu SEMA Gyeonghuigung Magic Island 109 46-7, 71-83, 216-17, 9, 38 P Museum of Art 59 makgeolli 13, 26-7, 33-4, accommodation 149-50 SEMa Nam Seoul Living drinking & nightlife 81 Paju Book City 137, 178 Arts Museum 112 166, 167, 27 entertainment 72, 81-2 palaces 18, 62, 176 Seochon 13 malls 40 food 72, 78, 80-1 Seodaemun Independence maps 189 highlights 9, 71-6 Changdeokgung 9, 52, 8 Park 130 markets 39, 40 shopping 72, 82 Changgyeonggung 127 Seodaemun Prison History sights 73-8 Deoksugung 75 Hall 129 Dapsimni Antiques transport 72 Goryeogungji Palace Seonbawi (Zen Rocks) 132 Market 123 walks 79 Seongbuk-dong 226-7, see (Ganghwado) 144 also northern Seoul Dongdaemun Market N Gyeongbokgung 50-1, Seonjeongneung 110 122, 123 Seonyudo Park 89 N Seoul Tower 9, 73 17, 50 Seoul Animation Center 77-8 Dongjin Market 13, 89, 94 Naksan Park 127 Gyeonghuigung 57, 59 Seoul Art Space Sindang 121 Filipino Sunday Nam June Paik Art Center Hwaseong Haenggung Seoul Arts Center 112, 115 Seoul Arts Space – Mullae 88 Market 132 (Suwon) 139-40 (Suwon) 138 Seoul Baekje Museum 108 Gwangjang Market 9, Namdaemun Market 74, Unhyeongung 60 Seoul City Hall 13, 76 pancakes 166 Seoul City Wall 19, 28, 73, 122, 123, 3, 8 30, 74 Panmunjeom 134 121, 132 Incheon Grand Fishery names 174 Park Won-Soon 162 Seoul City Wall Museum Namhan Sanseong parks & gardens 19 13, 121 Market (Incheon) 140 performing arts 115 Seoul Dulle-gil 28 Jungang Market 89, 122 Provincial Park 28 pharmacies 189-90 Seoul Folk Flea Market 123 Namdaemun Market Namsan 9, 73, 79 phonecards 191 Seoul Forest 121 Namsan Outdoor Botanical photography 62 Seoul Fringe Festival 21 74, 30, 74 planning 14-15 Seoul Land 112 Noryangjin Fish Market Garden 73 budgeting 25, 30 Seoul Lantern Festival 22, Namsangol Hanok Village 77 children, travel with 23 56, 22 90 Nanta Theatre 82 climate & weather Seoul Metropolitan Sejong Art Market National Assembly 89 15, 20-2 Library 76 National Children’s courses 26-7 Seoul Museum 130 SoSo 69 festivals & events 20-2 Seoul Museum of Art 77 Seoul Folk Flea Museum 51 food 29-32 Seoul Museum of History 57 National Folk Museum of itineraries 16-17 Seoul Olympic Museum 108 Market 123 local life 24 Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb Korea 51, 3 repeat visitors 13 National Hangeul Seoul basics 14-15 Medicine Market 123 Seoul’s neighbourhoods Stairway Flea Market 100 Museum 97 Marronnier Park 127 National Museum of 46-7 medical services 189-90 tours 27 meditation 26, 55, 110 Korea 97, 97 PLATEAU 77 MMCA Deoksugung 75 National Museum police 188 MMCA Seoul 59 mobile phones 14, 191 of Modern and Contemporary Art 112 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

Seoul Plaza 76 Jogye-sa 55 World Peace Gate 108 203INDEX EATING Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb Jongmyo 54, 54 wrestling 42 Sajikdan 59 G Medicine Market 123 Waryongmyo 73 Y Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb templestays 26, 110 GastroTong 64 tent bars 34 Yeongjongdo 142 Gilbert’s Burgers & Fries 113 Medicine Museum 121 theatre 36, 37, 82, 115, 182 Yeonnam-dong 89 Gogung (Insa-dong) 65 shamanism 174 theme parks 23, 109, Yeouido 47, 84-5, 87, 88-9, Gogung (Myeong-dong) 80 shopping 24, 38-40, 195-6, 112-13, 138, 109 Gosang 80 Third Infiltration Tunnel 135 91, 94, 220 Gwangjang Market 9, see also Shopping time 14, 191 Yeouido Full Gospel subindex, individual T-Money cards 187 122, 3, 8 neighbourhoods toilets 191-2 Church 88 shrines, see temples & tourist information 14, 192 Yongsan-gu 224 H shrines tours 26-7, 117, 135 Silmi Beach (Muuido) 142 traditional medicine 123 Z Ha Jun Min 113 Sinchon, see Hongdae & translation services 192 Hadongkwan 80 Around transport 184-7 Zen Rocks (Seonbawi) 132 Hanmiri 64, 114 Sindang 89 travel to Seoul 15, 184-6 HBC Gogitjip 101 skiing 42 travel within Seoul 15, 186-7 5 EATING Skygarden 77 TV 191 J soccer 41 63 Buffet Pavilion 91 soju 167 U 2046 Pansteak 65 Jaha Sonmandoo 130 SOMA 108 Jilsiru Tteok Café 64 Some Sevit 111-12 Unhyeongung 60 A Jirisan 65 SongEun ArtSpace 110-11 Jongno Sarangga 65 Songwol-dong Fairy Tale V A Person 78 Joseon Gimbap 63 Village (Incheon) 141-2 Atelier du Saint-Ex 101 Jungang Market 122 Sool Gallery 60 VAT refunds 39 Jungnim Dawon southern Seoul, see  vegetarian & vegan B Gangnam & South of (Ganghwado) 144 the Han River travellers 30, 32, Baekje Samgyetang Jungsik 113 souvenirs 39, 40 99, 165 78, 80 spas 42, 43, 83, 94, 105, 117 viewpoints 62, 88, 132 K sports 41-2, 43, see also visas 14, 192-3 Baker’s Table 100 Sports & Activities volunteering 193 Balwoo Gongyang 65 Kokopelli (Heyri) 136 subindex Bibigo Gyejeolbabsang 65 Koong 64 ssireum 42 W Bloc Party 100 Korea House 80 Stairway Flea Market 100 Bom Cafe (Suwon) 140 Statue of Brothers 98 walking tours 27 Bua 100 L street food 165 walks 61, 79, 87, 128 Busan Ilbeonji 90 subway travel 187 War & Women’s Human Lay Bricks 113 Sun Art Center 58 C Linus’ BBQ 100 Sungnyemun 74 Rights Museum 13, 86 Lobster Bar 101 Suwon 137-40 War Memorial of Korea Café Hesse (Paju Book Loving Hut 90 swimming 42 City) 137 98, 98 M T Waryongmyo 73 Cheolcheol Bokjip 81 water 34 Chung-jeong-gak 78 Menya Sandaime 89 taekwando 41-2, 117 weather 15, 20-2 Ciuri Ciuri 90 Min’s Club 66 Tapgol Park 60, 62 websites 14, 15, 30, 89, 145 Congdu 80 Mokmyeoksanbang 78 taxis 187 western Seoul, see Coreanos Kitchen 100, 113 Motif #1 (Heyri) 136 tea 39, 167 Myeong-dong Gyoja 78 teahouses 33, 35, 77, 131, 144 Hongdae, Yeouido D telephone services 14, 191 Whanki Museum 129-30 N temples & shrines White Block Art Center Dada Bok (Incheon) 142 Dejangjangi N.Grill 81 architecture 176 (Heyri) 136 Namdaemun Market 74, 30 Bomun-sa (Ganghwado) winter sports 42 HwadeogPijajip 65 Nonhyeon Samgyetang 113 Wolmido (Incheon) 142 Deongjang Yesool 130 144 work 193 Dongdaemun Market 122 O Bongeun-sa 110, 45 World Cup Park 88 Bukhansan National World Heritage sites E Ogawa 64 OKitchen 63 Park 139 Changdeokgung 9, 52, 8 Euro Gourmet 63 Osegyehyang 64 Cheondogyo Temple 60 Hwaseong (Suwon) 137-8 Gilsang-sa 129 Jongmyo 54, 54 F P Inwangsan Guksadang 130 Namhan Sanseong Jeondeung-sa Fell & Cole 90 Passion 5 99 Provincial Park 28 Forest Garden (Heyri) 137 Pierre Gagnaire à Séoul 81 (Ganghwado) 143 royal tombs 122 Foresta Book Cafe PLANT 99 (Heyri) 136

204 INDEX DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE 6 DRINKING & H Suyeon Sanbang 131 Potala 80 NIGHTLIFE Potato Passion 63 Hakrim 131 T Pungmi (Incheon) 143 A Hidden Track 122 Hopscotch 66 TableA 92 Q aA Café 91 Take Urban 115 Against the Machine 103 I Takeout Drawing 103 Queens Park 114 Always Homme 104 Tea Therapy 67 Anthracite 91 Ikdong Dabang 67 Thanks Nature Cafe 92 R Top Cloud 68 B K Trance 104 Rogpa Tea Stall 63 B1 103 Keg B 91 V S Baekseju-maeul 67 Kopi Bangasgan 67 Barcode 68 Venue/ 101 Samarkand 122 Bau House 92 L Samchi St (Incheon) 143 Beautiful Tea Museum 67 W Samwon Garden 113 Blue 55 103 Labris 92 Scoff 130 Booth 102, 114 Lovibond 102 Walkabout 81 Seasons Table 113 Brew 3.14 66 Ways of Seeing 103 Seoureseo Duljjaero Burn 103 M White Rabbit 102 Why Not 104 Jalhaneunjip 64 C M2 92 Wolhyang 91, 103 Serious Deli 130 Made in Pong Dang 102 Shim’s Tapas 91 Café Sukkara 91 Magpie Brewing Co. 91, 102 Y Shinpo-sijang (Incheon) 143 Cafe the Story 81 Meakjugo 115 Sinseon Seolnongtang 78 Café Yeon 67 Miracle 104 Yri Cafe 92 Slobbie 90 Caffe Themselves 67 Mix & Malt 131 Solmoe-maeul 65 Cakeshop 101 MK2 66 3 ENTERTAINMENT Song’s Kitchen 63 Cat Cafe 81 Moon Jar 115 Soo:P Coffee Flower 80 Cha Masineun Tteul 67 Mowmow 103 All that Jazz 104 Suji’s 100 Chloris Tea Garden 92 Muldwinda 81 ArkoPAC 131 Club Mass 115 Bibap 68 T Club MWG 92 N Café BBang 93 Club Octagon 114 Cinemateque KOFA 93 Tartine 101 Coffee Libre 81 Neurin Maeul 114 Cinematheque/Seoul Arts Taverna de Portugal 90 Craftworks 81, 102 Tea Museum 65 O Cinema 68 Tobang 64 D Club Evans 93 Tochon (Incheon) 142 Oktoberfest 115 Club Ta 93 Tongin Market Box Lunch Daeo Sochom 66 On the Hill Cafe 131 DGBD 93 Dallyeora Gaemi 1 131 Dongsoong Arts Center 131 Cafe 63 Dalsaeneun Dalman P FF 93 Tosokchon 63 Indie Art-Hall GONG 93 Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai 90 Saenggak Handa 67 Pet Sounds 101 Jazz Story 131 Damotori 101 Pongdang 114 Jeongdong Theater 81 V Davansa Teahouse 77 Prost 103 Jump 82 Dawon 66 Klive 123 Vatos 99 Q Korea House 80 E LG Arts Center 115 W Queen 104 Mudaeruk 93 Ellui 114 Myeongdong Theater 82 Wang Jajeong et M’amie 66 R Nanta Theatre 82 (Ganghwado) 144 National Gugak Center 115 F Rose & Crown 103 National Theater of Wangbijip 78 Woo Rae Oak 122 Flower Gin 102 S Korea 81 Wood and Brick 64, 130 Four Seasons 101 Once in a Blue Moon 116 Fox Wine Bistro 92 Sanmotoonge 131 Rocky Mountain Y Shortbus 68 G Sik Mool 66 Tavern 104 Yeonpo Galbi (Suwon) 140 SJ Kunsthalle 115 Sejong Center for the G’Day 103 Slow Garden 131 Z Grand Ole Opry 103 Soho 104 Performing Arts 68 Greenmile Coffee 114 Southside Parlor 101 Seoul Arts Center 115 Zelen 101 Steamers Coffee Su Noraebang 93 Thunderhorse Tavern 104 Sights 000 Factory 115 Map Pages 000 Story of the Blue Star 67 Photo Pages 000

205 7 SHOPPING Seoul Folk Flea Market 123 D Metro Hotel 149 Seoul Selection 69 Minari House 154 10 Corso Como Seoul 116 Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb Dongdaemun Hostel & Moon Guest House 148 10X10 132 Inn 154 Myeongdong Tomato Åland 82 Medicine Market 123 Åland After Åland 94 Shinsegae 82 Doo Guesthouse 148 Guesthouse 149 Ando 105 Ssamziegil 70 Baek Baek 132 Stairway Flea Market 100 E N INDEX SHOPPING Boon the Shop 117 Steve J & Yoni P 105 Boy+ by Supermarket 117 What the Book 105 Eugene’s House 154 Namchidang (Ganghwado) Club Espresso 132 Yido 70 144 COEX Mall 116 Yongsan Electronics F Comme des Garcons 105 Namsan Guesthouse 149 Dapsimni Antiques Market 104-5 Fraser Suites 149 Nine Tree Hotel Yuimaru 69 Market 123 G Myeong-dong 150 Dolsilnai 70 2 SPORTS & Dongdaemun Market 123 ACTIVITIES Grand Hyatt Seoul 152 O Dongjin Market 13, 89, 94 Bukaksan 132 Guesthouse Jijihang (Paju Doota 123 Chunjiyun Spa 83 Oriens Hotel & Dynasty Tailor 105 Delectable Travels 26 Book City) 137 Residences 150 Eelskin Shop 105 Dragon Hill Spa & Resort 105 Guesthouse Yacht 152 Filipino Sunday Market 132 Gangnam City Tour 117 P Free Market 94 Gastro Tour Seoul 27 H Galleria 116 International Seon Center 26 Pacific Hotel 150 Gallery Art Zone 69 Itaewonland 105 H Avenue Hotel 153 Park Hyatt Seoul 153 Garosu-Gil 116 Jangchung Gymnasium 123 Haemil 151 Plaza 150 Gentle Monster 94 Kimchi Academy House 83 Hanagae Beach Huts POP@Itaewon Gwangjang Market 9, 123 Koridoor Tours 27, 135 Hamilton Shirts 105 Kukkiwon 117 (Muuido) 142 Guesthouse 152 Hyojae 132 Magpie 27 Harbor Park Hotel Princess Hotel 153 Hyundai Department Makgeolli Makers 26 O’ngo 26 (Incheon) 143 R Store 116 Royal Asiatic Society 27 Hide & Seek Guesthouse 148 Insa-dong Maru 13, 69 Seoul City Tour Bus 27 Hostel Korea 11th 148 Rak-Ko-Jae 149 I’Park Mall 105 Seoul City Walking Tours 27 Hotel D’Oro 152 Ritz-Carlton Seoul 153 Jilkyungyee 69 Seoul Global Cultural Hotel Prince 150 Roi House 150 Jonginamoo 70 Hotel Sunbee 148 Jungang Market 89 Center 83 Hotel the Designers 148 S KCDF Gallery 69 Seoul Sports Complex 117 Key 93 Silloam Sauna 83 I Seoul Olympic Parktel 153 Kukjae Embroidery 70 Spa Lei 117 Small House Big Door 149 Kyobo Bookshop 68 Temple Life program 55 Inn Daewon 148 Sophia Guest House 148 Lab 5 82 Templestay 26 Inside Backpackers 154 SP@Itaewon Little Farmers 94 World Cup Spaland 94 IP Boutique Hotel 152 Lotte Department Store 82 YBM Sisa 27 Island Garden (Muuido) 142 Guesthouse 152 Lotte World Mall 13, 117 Yoo’s Family 27 Itaewon G Guest House 152 Studio 41st hostel 151 Market m* 69 Mecenatpolis Mall 94 4 SLEEPING J T Migliore Mall 82 Mik 70 24 Guesthouse Gangnam JW Marriott Dongdaemun Toyoko Inn Seoul Millimetre Milligram 104 Center 152 Square 154 Dongdaemun 154 Mono Collection 69 Nakwon Musical B K Travelers Planet Hostel 151 Tria Hotel 153 Instruments Arcade 70 Beewon Guesthouse 148 K Hostel 154 Blu: Home Guest House 151 Kimchee Gangnam U Namdaemun Market 74, 74 Noryangjin Fish Market 90 C Guesthouse 152 Urban Art Guest House 151 Object Recycle 94 Urbanwood Guesthouse 150 O’Sulloc 70 Chi-Woon-Jung 149 L Primera 82 Come Inn 151 V Pungwoldang 117 Conrad Seoul 151 La Casa 153 Samho Woojoo 74 Crib49 149 Lee Kang Ga 151 V Mansion 151 Sejong Art Market SoSo 69 Lotte Hotel Seoul 150 Lotte Hotel World 154 W M W Seoul Walkerhill 154 Westin Chosun Seoul 150 M Chereville 153 Wwoof Korea Marigold Hotel 151 Mercure Seoul Ambassador Guesthouse 148 Gangnam Sodowe 153 Z Zaza Backpackers 149

206 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Seoul Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Walking Tour Shinto Beach Walking Tour detour Sikh Gate Path/Walking Trail Taoist Hut/Shelter Winery/Vineyard Lighthouse Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Lookout Other Sight Mountain/Volcano International Oasis State/Province Activities, Park Disputed Courses & Tours Pass Regional/Suburb Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (National) Skiing Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Snorkelling City/Large Town Intermittent River Surfing Town/Village Canal Swimming/Pool Walking Transport Water Windsurfing Other Activity Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Border crossing Sleeping Bus Reef Cable car/Funicular Sleeping Cycling Areas Camping Ferry Metro/MTR/MRT station Airport/Runway Eating Monorail Parking Beach/Desert Eating Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Cemetery (Christian) Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Train station/Railway Cemetery (Other) Drinking & Nightlife Tram Cafe Underground station Glacier Other Transport Entertainment Mudflat Note: Not all symbols displayed above Entertainment appear on the maps in this book Park/Forest Shopping Sight (Building) Shopping Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

MAP INDEX Samcheong SEONGBUK- e# 0 4 km Park GU 0 2 miles 1 Bukchon Hanok Village (p208) Ð\"2 Ð\"1 2 Gwanghwamun (p210) 3 Insa‑dong & Around (p212) SEODAEMUN- SAJIK- GYE-DONG Ð\"9 4 Myeong‑dong & Around GU DONG (p215) JONGNO- Ð\"3 IHWA-DONG\"Ð10 5 Hongdae, Sinchon & Around \"Ð5 (p218) GU 6 Yeouido (p220) (HHaanngaRnivge)r 7 Itaewon (p222) Yeouido Saetgang DONGDAEMUN-GU 8 Yongsan‑gu (p224) 9 Dongdaemun & Around Eco Park JUNG-GU (p225) 10 Daehangno & Ð\"6 \"Ð4 NaPmarskan Seoul Seongbuk‑­dong (p226) Ð\"8 Forest Park 11 Apgujeong & Gangnam \"Ð7 (p228) GARWOL-DONG Ð\"12 12 Jamsil (p230) Ð\"11 YONGSAN- GU SINSA-DONG BANPO-DONG GANGNAM-GU (HHaanngRainvger) BANG-DONG 111111 111111 DAECHI 3-DONG 111111 YEOKSAM-DONG 1 1 1 N1a1tio1na1l 1 1 1 1 1 1 1Cem1 ete1ry 1 1 111111 111111 111111 111111

BUKCHON HANOK VILLAGE 208 e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles A B C DE FG 1 Samcheong-ro Seoureseo Duljjaero S a mcheong-ro Jalhaneunjip (200m) 2 D á# Soyoam 1 See map 3 p210 #ú 16 Samcheong Park â# 10 #þ 23 JONGNO- 27 #þ 26 â# â# 9 #ü #ü 20 GU ÿ# Yeongyeongdang 4 SOGYEOK-DONG 28 ÿ##þ â# 11 Cheongwadae-ro 19 25 15 #æ 12 Bukchon-ro 8 â# GYE-DONG 2 #ú GAHOE-DONG 3 â# Huwon 7 â# # SAMCHEONG- #ú 14 DONG hg #ü Changdeokgung-gil ghSee map 3 21 p226 JONGNO-GU GYEO-DONG Gyedong-gil 17 #ú Samcheong ÿ# 29 Park GYE-DONG 5 â# #üYun#úpos1u8n-gil #ÿ 31 30 22 #þ #ÿ Gamgodang-gil 32 #ú 13 Bukchon Changdeokgung ï# æ# Hanok 2 #V Village â# Injeongjeon 24 6 1 #æ 4 Nakseonjae #â

209#â Donhwamun ANGUK-DONG Bukchon-ro .# #â 4 #ï Changdeokgung Yunposun-gil Ticket Booth 5 Yulgok-ro 5 ji¦# Anguk See map Jongmyo p212 UNNI-DONG Park ò# ABCDE FG æ Top Sights (p52) ú Eating (p64) 23 Jilkyungyee...............................................................B1 1 Bukchon Hanok Village.......................................... D4 13 2046 Pansteak ........................................................D4 24 Jonginamoo............................................................. C4 2 Changdeokgung ......................................................F4 14 Dejangjangi HwadeogPijajip...................................C3 25 Mik............................................................................D2 15 Joseon Gimbap .......................................................A4 26 Yido ...........................................................................C1 æ Sights (p59) 16 Solmoe-maeul ......................................................... B1 3 Another Way of Seeing ...........................................B2 17 Tea Museum............................................................ E3 ÿ Sleeping (p148) 4 Arario Museum in SPACE .......................................E5 18 Wood and Brick .......................................................C4 27 Chi-Woon-Jung ........................................................C1 5 Artsonje Center ...................................................... B4 28 Doo Guesthouse ..................................................... D2 6 Bukchon Traditional û Drinking & Nightlife (p66) 29 Rak-Ko-Jae ..............................................................D3 Culture Center ..................................................... D4 19 Café Yeon.................................................................B2 30 Sophia Guest House ............................................... B4 7 Dong-Lim Knot Workshop ......................................C2 20 Cha Masineun Tteul ................................................B2 31 Wwoof Korea Guesthouse .....................................D4 8 Gahoe Minhwa Workshop.......................................C2 21 Kopi Bangasgan ......................................................B3 9 Hakgojae ..................................................................A4 22 Tea Therapy.............................................................C4 ï Information 10 Kukje.........................................................................A4 32 Bukchon Tourist 11 MMCA Seoul ............................................................A4 þ Shopping (p69) Information Center .............................................. C4 12 Simsimheon.............................................................C2 Gallery Art Zone ..............................................(see 11) BUKCHON HANOK VILLAGE

210 e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles 1 A BCD 6 #â GWANGHWAMUN P i rundae-ro Cheongwadae-ro 7 æ# Hyangwonjeong â# 2 Tongin 35 # Amisan Market#ú 37 þ# 43 Gangyeongjeon #ü TONGIN-DONG #â 40 38 #ü # â# 3 Hyoja-ro Gyotaejeon Jahamun-ro Gyeonghoeru Pirund ae-r o 34 #ú SEOCHON #ü TONGUI-DONG #â 21 27 Gyeongbokgung #â #ú #V 2 Donggun 4 #û 39#â #â 15 #â 10 Geunjeongjeon #ú 48 #â 36 #ÿ PIRUN-DONG 52 #ï 4 #ú 33 8 Heungnyemun 46 #â #â #þ 32 #ú 49 #â 20 Cheongwadae Tour #ÿ Ticket Booth # SPaajrikk DANGJU-DONG 22 æ# Sajik-ro ¦# Gwanghwamun â# Sejong-daero SAJIK-DONG Gyeongbokgung 5 Sa3e0m#úunan4Sþ#G-4eHwrFaoaoosntuoegr#ýnlhsw42a#â1m3 u#¦n00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000#áæ#3#á00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000JO11164N#âY2uG#í1l#þN5g#í950oO6k--G3ro1U#ú Sajik-ro 8-gil 6 #V Gwanghwamun Jong-ro 12 Sq Gyeonghuigung #â Park 25 24 #â #á 13 47 # Cheong-Sejong-daero 7 æ# 14 gye- 26 cheon jiSee map #á#æ p215 #ï 5 æ# 51 28 #ú 1 ABCD

211 E (p50) 30 Ogawa................................... C6 æ Top Sights 31 OKitchen .............................. D5 32 Potato Passion..................... B4 1 Cheong-gye-cheon.............. D7 33 Rogpa Tea Stall.................... A4 34 Song's Kitchen..................... A3 2 Gyeongbokgung .................. D3 35 Tongin Market Box Lunch 1 Cafe ................................... B2 æ Sights (p56) 36 Tosokchon ........................... B4 GWANGHWAMUN 3 Admiral Yi Sun-Sin's Statue ................................ D7 4 Artside.................................. C3 5 Cheong-gye Plaza ............... D7 6 Cheongwadae .......................C1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p66) 7 Cheongwadae Sarangchae..C1 37 Daeo Sochom ...................... B3 heong-ro 2 8 Daelim Contemporary Art 38 et M'amie.............................. B3 17 Museum ............................ C4 39 Hopscotch............................ C3 â# Samc 9 Gallery Hyundai ....................E4 40 MK2 ...................................... C3 â# 18 See map 10 Gallery Simon ...................... C4 11 Gwanghwamun Square....... D6 ý Entertainment (p68) #â p208 Gwanghwamun 41 Sejong Center for the hgOpen Air Exhibition Square Underground Performing Arts ................ D6 Exhibition ................. (see 16) 3 12 Gyeonghuigung ................... A6 þ Shopping (p68) Samcheong-ro 13 Hammering Man.................. B7 42 Kyobo Bookshop ................. D7 14 Heunghwamun .................... B7 43 Market m* ............................ B3 15 Jean Art Gallery ................... C3 Mono Collection..........(see 40) 16 King Sejong Statue.............. D6 44 Sejong Art Market SoSo ..... C6 17 National Children's 45 Seoul Selection.....................E4 Museum .............................E2 46 Yuimaru................................ A4 .# 18 National Folk Museum of Ø Sports & Activities (p27) 4 Korea ..................................E2 9 19 National Museum of 47 Seoul City Tour Bus............. D7 â# Korean #þ 45 Contemporary ÿ Sleeping (p148) History ............................... D5 48 Hide & Seek Guesthouse .... C4 54 20 National Palace Museum 49 Inn Daewon .......................... C4 í# of Korea ............................. C4 21 Ryugaheon ........................... C3 ï Information 50 Australian Embassy ............ D6 5 22 Sajikdan................................ A5 51 Cheong-gye-cheon Tourist Information Center........... D7 23 Sejong Gallery...................... D6 52 Gyeongbokgung Tourist #í 24 SeMA Gyeonghuigung Information Center........... D4 53 Museum of Art .................. A7 53 Irish Embassy .......................E5 25 Seoul Museum of History ... B7 54 Japanese Embassy ..............E5 55 KTO Tourist Information 26 Spring Sculpture ................. D7 Center.................................E7 Sambong-ro ú Eating (p63) New Zealand 29 ú# 6 Euro Gourmet ............. (see 27) Embassy...................(see 50) hgSee map 27 GastroTong .......................... C3 56 US Embassy......................... D6 p212 28 Hanmiri................................. D7 29 Jongno Sarangga ................ E6 7 Cheong-gye-cheon #ï 55 E

212 hg B CD Key on p214 ji See map .# A p208 Gyedong-gil Bukchon-ro 1 INSA‑DONG & AROUND Yunposeon-gil #¦ Anguk Gamgodang-gil ò# -dong 2 #¦ Anguk Samil-daero 15 Yulgok-ro #V GYEONGUN- Unhyeongung DONG 55 # 32 #û #ï 53 Insa-donIgns16a--dgiol ng 14-gil #ú 19 3 5 #æ 4 4 Ujeongguk-ro# 58IInNsSaA-d-oDInn#ïO1sg0Na51â#G11-g43i9l07#ú-g#þ#þil23In3s8aI1n4-#ÿ#þ2sda8-o-gdn#þiolg3n2#üIg#în4681-7sg1#ú#þ2ai#úl50-7d72#úoI#æn23#þns5#üg1aIn2-7sd-a2gâ#o-i9ldn8o-ggni1gl0#ú2I-n1gsial-d6o-gniglInNsaA-dGoWngO4N-g-iDl4ÿ#O6NG#þ â# Jogye-sa #æ 1 52 #ï See map p210 Insa-dong 5-gil 39 #ü 33 #ý 5 26 Sambong-ro #þ 34 Samil-daero 11 á# 56 #ï 6 Tapgol #æ 9 Park 13 ÷# Jonggak #ô #¦ Jong-ro # 54 Namdaemun-ro 3 á# 7 #û 24 Bibap (100m); D Caffe Themselves (100m) A B Piano Key Lane C D

213 e# 0 200 m 0 hg0.1 miles EFG H See map Samcheong p226 Park Yulgok-ro 1 44 2 INSA‑DONG & AROUND # Jongmyo Park 47 #ÿ GWONGNONG-DONG UNNI-DONG #ÿ 45 #ÿ 50 Seosulla-gil Donhwamun-ro æ# 16 Samil-daero 32-gil 14 ú# #â 18 8 3 #æ 27 û# 2 Jongmyo æ# Samil-daero 30-gil û# 31 ô# 6 æ# # 42 4 IKSEON-DONG 30 û# Donhwamun-ro 11-gil Jongno 3-ga #¦ 25 û# 5 Donhwamun-ro 6 Supyo-ro 7 #ñ F #¦ H 43 # Jongno 3-ga ji#ÿ See map G 49 p215 E

214 INSA-DONG & AROUND Map on p212 æ Top Sights (p54) ý Entertainment (p68) 1 Jogye-sa .....................................................A3 33 Cinematheque/Seoul Arts 2 Jongmyo ................................................... H3 Cinema .................................................... D5 æ Sights (p59) þ Shopping (p69) INSA‑DONG & AROUND 3 Bosingak.....................................................A7 Cerawork .......................................... (see 41) 4 Central Buddhist Museum........................A3 34 Chungang Atlas......................................... A5 5 Cheondogyo Temple.................................C3 35 Dolsilnai .....................................................C4 6 Gonsindang............................................... H4 36 Insa-dong Maru .........................................C4 7 Hwabong Gallery .......................................C4 37 KCDF Gallery ............................................. B4 8 Jeongjeon.................................................. H3 38 Kukjae Embroidery ................................... B4 9 Jongno Tower ............................................B6 39 Nakwon Musical Instruments 10 Mokin Museum ..........................................B4 Arcade ..................................................... D5 Sool Gallery...................................... (see 37) 40 O'Sulloc......................................................B3 11 Stone Pagoda of Wongak-sa ....................D5 41 Ssamziegil .................................................C4 12 Sun Art Center...........................................C5 13 Tapgol Park............................................... D6 Ø Sports & Activities (p26) 14 Tteok & Kitchen Utensil Museum ............ F3 42 O'ngo.......................................................... E4 15 Unhyeongung ............................................D2 43 YBM Sisa.................................................... E7 16 Yeongnyeongjeon......................................G2 44 Yoo's Family ............................................... F1 ú Eating (p64) ÿ Sleeping (p148) Balwoo Gongyang ........................... (see 58) 45 Beewon Guesthouse................................. F2 17 Bibigo Gyejeolbabsang .............................C4 46 Fraser Suites .............................................D4 Gogung..............................................(see 41) 47 Hostel Korea 11th ...................................... F2 18 Jilsiru Tteok Café....................................... F3 48 Hotel Sunbee............................................. B4 19 Jirisan .........................................................C3 49 Hotel the Designers .................................. E7 20 Koong .........................................................C3 50 Moon Guest House ................................... E2 21 Min's Club ..................................................C3 22 Osegyehyang .............................................C3 ï Information 23 Tobang .......................................................B3 51 Insa-dong Tourist Information Center .....................................................B4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p66) 52 Jogye-sa Information Center for 24 Baekseju-maeul.........................................B7 Foreigners............................................... A4 25 Barcode...................................................... F5 53 North Insadong Tourist 26 Beautiful Tea Museum..............................C5 Information Centre ................................B2 27 Brew 3.14....................................................E3 54 Seoul Global Center.................................. A7 28 Dalsaeneun Dalman Saenggak Handa ....C3 55 Seoul Immigration Office Anguk.............. C2 29 Dawon.........................................................C3 56 South Insadong Tourist 30 Ikdong Dabang...........................................E4 Information Centre ................................D6 Shortbus .......................................... (see 25) 57 Sudo Pharmacy.........................................C4 31 Sik Mool......................................................E4 58 Templestay Information Center.............. A3 32 Story of the Blue Star................................B2 Top Cloud........................................... (see 9)

215 MYEONG-DONG & AROUND Map on p216 æ Top Sights (p73) 32 Korea House .................G3 62 Seoul Global Cultural 33 Mokmyeoksanbang...... E5 Center......................... E3 1 City Hall ......................... C2 34 Myeong-dong Gyoja ..... E3 Seoul Plaza Ice 2 Deoksugung.................. B2 N.Grill......................(see 3) Skating Rink ...... (see 21) Pierre Gagnaire à 3 N Seoul Tower & 63 Silloam Sauna ............... A4 Séoul..................(see 68) Namsan ...................... E6 MYEONG‑DONG & AROUND 35 Potala ............................ E3 4 Namdaemun Market.... C3 36 Sinseon Seolnongtang............. E2 ÿ Sleeping (p149) æ Sights (p77) 37 Soo:P Coffee Flower..... C3 64 Banyan Tree Club & 38 Wangbijip ...................... E2 5 Agriculture Museum .... A2 Spa .............................. H7 6 Ahn Jung-geun 65 Crib49............................ E5 Memorial Hall............. C6 66 Global Hostel................. E4 7 Bank of Korea Money 67 Hotel Prince .................. E3 Museum ..................... D3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p81) 68 Lotte Hotel Seoul..........D2 39 Cafe the Story................F4 8 Bongsudae .................... E6 40 Cat Cafe.........................D3 69 Metro Hotel ...................D2 Coffee Libre ......... (see 14) Citizens Hall ............(see 1) 70 Myeongdong Tomato 41 Craftworks .....................F2 9 Culture Station Seoul Davansa Guesthouse ................ E4 284.............................. A5 Teahouse...........(see 49) 71 Namsan Guesthouse.... E4 Daehan Empire 42 Neurin Maeul.................. E1 72 Namsan Guesthouse 43 Walkabout ..................... E4 History Museum(see 18) 2 .................................. E4 Gungisi Relics 73 Nine Tree Hotel Exhibition Hall ......(see 1) Myeong-dong ............. E3 10 Hamnyeongjeon ........... B2 74 Oriens Hotel & 11 Jeonggwanheon ........... B2 ý Entertainment (p81) Residences................. F4 12 Junghwajeon................. B2 44 Jeongdong Theater ...... B2 75 Pacific Hotel .................. E4 13 MMCA Deoksugung ..... B2 45 Jump...............................A1 76 Plaza ..............................C2 14 Myeong-dong 46 Myeongdong Theater... D2 77 Small House Big Door .. D1 Catholic 47 Nanta Theatre Jung- 78 Westin Chosun Seoul ... D2 Cathedral.................... E3 gu ................................D3 79 Zaza Backpackers ........ E4 15 Namsan Park .................F6 48 National Theater of 16 Namsangol Hanok Korea ..........................H6 ï Information 80 Canadian Embassy........A1 Village .........................G4 49 Seoul Namsan 81 Chinese Embassy .........D3 82 Deoksugung Ticket 17 PLATEAU....................... B3 Gugakdang .................G4 Office ..........................C2 83 German Embassy ......... B5 18 Seokjojeon .................... B2 84 Myeong-dong Tourist Information 19 Seoul Animation þ Shopping (p82) Center......................... E2 Center......................... E4 50 Åland..............................D3 85 Namdaemun Market Tourist Seoul 51 Joongang Building C Information Metropolitan and D........................... C3 Center ......................... C3 Library ..................(see 1) 52 Lab 5 ..............................D3 Netherlands Embassy........... (see 80) 20 Seoul Museum of Art ... C2 53 Lotte Department 86 UK Embassy...................C1 21 Seoul Plaza.................... C2 Store ........................... D2 22 Skygarden..................... A5 54 Migliore Mall.................. E3 23 Sungnyemun................. B4 55 Primera.......................... D3 24 Waryongmyo .................E5 56 Samho Woojoo ............. C3 57 Shinsegae...................... D3 ú Eating (p78) 25 A Person........................ C2 Ø Sports & Activities (p83) 58 Chunjiyun Spa............... E3 26 Baekje Samgyetang ..... D3 59 Kimchi Academy ï Transport House ......................... E3 City Airport 27 Cheolcheol Bokjip..........D1 60 Korea Whal Culture Terminal ........... (see 88) 28 Congdu...........................B1 Association ................G6 87 N Seoul Tower Cable 29 Gogung.......................... E3 61 Outdoor Gym ................H6 Car ..............................D5 30 Gosang ........................... E1 88 Seoul Station................. A5 31 Hadongkwan ..................E2

216 Key on p215 ABCD See map p210 1 ý# 45 D Sejong-daero MYEONG‑DONG & AROUND D ú# 28 #ú 77 #ÿ ji Tongil-rooksu8í#g0ung-gil 86 27 #í â# 5 De City Hall 2 Namdaemun 44 â#18 â# Euljiro ý# 11 æ# 1 #¦ 1-ga 13 â# 12 â# 10 â# 21 Seoul City #ÿ 69 #ÿ 2 V# Se#æoul Shopping 68 46 #ý Deoksugung 82 Plaza Plaza 53 þ# # 20 â##ú 76 #ÿ 25 Taepyeong-ro #ÿ 78 City #¦ Namdaemun-ro Hall 26 Muldwinda (580m); Seosomun-ro 37 ú#Sogong-ro 5þ#2 #í474ý#0 ü##ú Makgeolli Makers (600m) 81 #þ 3 SOGONG-DONG 7 â# 55 50 þ# French Embassy (400m); 17 ô#56ï#þ##þ8551Na#æmMad4rakeemt5u7nþ# ò# Nanta Theatre (630m); â# Sogong-ro Chung-jeong-gak (680m) æ# 23 Jilpae-gil 4 Sejong-daero #¦ Hoehyeon NAMSAN- 63 DONG #Ø Toegye-ro NAMCHANG-DONG 87 #¤ 5 #÷ 22 í# 83 Sopa-ro ww 3rd Namsan Tunnel 9 æ# #¦ Seoul #£ Seoul Station o 88 # Sowol-r 6 â# 6 7 ijSee map p224 ABCD

217 e# 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles EFG w H w See map ij p212 Cheong-gye-cheon 1 #ú 42 Samil-daero MYEONG‑DONG & AROUND 30 û# Changgyeonggung-ro Euljiro JUNG-GU Euljiro Chungmu-ro¦# 3-ga #¦4-ga Supyo-ro Eulji-ro 41 #ûSamil-daero Mareunnae-gil 2 84 My eong-dong-gil Mareunnae-ro ï# 31 ú# #ú 38 #ú 36 35 #Ü 14 INHYUNG-DONG 59 ##ú 34 62 # #ú 58 54 Jungmÿ#ur7o3 29 #ú#Ø 3 #þ Myeongdong w Chungmuro Toegye-ro hgSee map #¦ p225 #¦ ÿ# 67 w 32 4 #ú YEAJANG-DONG ÿ# ÿ# 70 ÿ# 74 75 #â #ý #æ 16 49 72 79 ÿ# 19 ÿ# YEJANG-DONG 43 66 ÿ# û#Sopa-ro #ü 39 ÿ# Namsan Circuit Time 71 Capsule 65 ÿ# Sq #ú 33 Northern 5 æ# 24 1st Namsan Tunnel JUNG-GU Namsan ww Park ¤# 8 æ# 15 æ# #Ø 2nd Namsan Tunnel 6 N Seoul 60 Ø# 48 #ý Tower & á# 3 dan-ro Namsan 61 64 ÿ# Southern Jangchung m san 7 Na Circuit R (N2a6m2msa)n E Namsan OutdoorD Botanical Garden (700m) GH F

218 e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles 1 A BCD World Cup Stadium (2.5km); Donggyo-ro D HONGDAE, SINCHON & AROUND Cinemateque KOFA (3.1km) #ÿ 42 DYEONNAM-DONG D Roi House (300m); Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai (200m); Soi Yeonnam (400m) Dongjin Market (250m); Haemil (350m) Hongik ¦# University #ÿWorld Cup Buk-ro 43 #ÿ Gyeongui Line Park #â 3 40 Hongik Dabok-gil 34 2 University #þ #ú #ÿ 44 8 Donggyo-ro ¦# #ÿ Obok-gil 3 38 #ú 9 Hongik-ro Jandari-ro SEOGYO-DONYGangh#ÿwSaae-4rmo1ulgyeol 2-gil 7 #ú Eoulmadang-ro #ü 22 þ# #þ 35 Wausan-ro 36 #ÿ 39 4 Wausan-ro #ô 32 19-gil þ# Bau House (200m); Mecenatpolis Mall (350m);D #û 20 Hongik Seonyudo Park (1.6km) D #û University 5 15 #û 18 (Hongdae) SEOGYO- 19 #û 1 #ý 30 DONG þ# 33 27 æ# 26 Sinchon # Yanghwa-ro 6-gil #ý Picasso St #ý 37 #ý 28 Dongmak-ro 7-gil Eoulmadang-ro 47 #î # #þ 31 46 #ü DSeongsan-ro 11 #û #ú Ewha Womans University (400m) 17 10 6 ú#DonMgymeoangkm-ruol-1gü#4 #û 16 #ú 4 5 Yonsei-ro #ú il 6 Dongmak-ro ¦# Sangsu Dongmak-ro 8-gil #ý 29 SANGSU-DONG SANGSU-DONG Sinchon-roSin#¦chonSinchon-ro #ü Wausan-2#üro43-gil 7 12 B 0 200 m Jeoldusan Martyrs' 0 0.1 miles Shrine (600m) A 45 Tojeong-ro #ÿ CD

219 E (p86) Club Ta ........................(see 28) æ Sights 1 KT&G SangsangMadang .... B5 27 DGBD.................................... B5 2 Modern Design Museum......E4 28 FF .......................................... B5 1 3 War & Women's Human 29 Mudaeruk ............................. A7 Rights Museum................. A2 30 Su Noraebang...................... B5 HONGDAE, SINCHON & AROUND ú Eating (p89) þ Shopping (p93) 4 Ciuri Ciuri ............................. B6 31 Åland After Åland ................ B5 Sinchon-ro 5 Fell & Cole ............................ B6 32 Free Market.......................... C4 6 Loving Hut............................ D6 7 Menya Sandaime................. B3 33 Gentle Monster .................... B5 8 Shim's Tapas ....................... D3 D 9 Slobbie ................................. C3 34 Key........................................ D2 10 Taverna de Portugal............ C5 Sinchon (600m); 2 35 Little Farmers ...................... D4 (see inset) 36 Object Recycle..................... D4 Ø Sports & Activities (p27) û Drinking & Nightlife (p91) 37 Yonsei University................. D5 11 aA Café ................................. B5 12 Anthracite ............................ A7 ÿ Sleeping (p150) û# 25 13 Café Sukkara ........................E3 38 Blu: Home Guest 23 #ý 13 ü# 3 14 Chloris Tea Garden ............. D6 House ................................ A3 15 Club MWG ............................ C4 39 Come Inn .............................. C4 16 Fox Wine Bistro.................... B6 40 Lee Kang Ga......................... A2 #ü 17 Keg B .................................... B5 41 Marigold Hotel ..................... B3 21 18 Labris.................................... C4 42 Studio 41st ............................B1 #â 19 M2......................................... B5 43 Travelers Planet 2 20 Magpie Brewing Co. ............ C4 Hostel ................................ B2 21 TableA ...................................E3 44 Urbanwood 4 22 Thanks Nature Cafe ............ C4 Guesthouse....................... D3 Wau 23 Wolhyang ..............................E3 45 V Mansion ............................ D7 Park 24 Yri Cafe................................. B7 ï Information ý Entertainment (p93) 46 Severance Hospital ............. D5 25 Café BBang ...........................E3 47 XIndie Ticket Lounge .......... B5 26 Club Evans ........................... C5 5 6 Dongmak-ro 7 E

220 e# 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles ABCD Seonyudo Park (1km)D Yeouido Hangang Seogang Bamseom 1 D Swimming Pool Bridge ISsalanncdtuBairryd 1 #ã Yeouido D YeouisHeaoPn-argroakng Bicycle (HHaanngaRnivg)er Mapo YEOUIDO #æ 2 Hire #, Bridge Ø# w Ü# w ANssaetmionbalGylu¦#khoe-daero 3 Yeouinaru ¦# 2 2 YeouiYgeoØ#onugBi-wdiocanyeY-crroleoPe6oaHuÿ#rikidreo Yeouidong-ro Wonhyo Mokdong Stadium (2km); #Ø 5 Bridge Seoul Immigration Office Bicycle Uisadang-daero Ø# Hire Omokgyo (6km) w Yeouiseo-ro w Seoul Arts Space – Mullae (800m); ¦# Yeouido Yeouidaebang-ro 3 Chichipopo Library (1.2km); Yeouidong-ro ¦# Saetgang #ö 1 3 Urban Art Guest House (1.2km); Mullae Arts Village (1.3km); Indie Art-Hall GONG (2.5km) ¦# Singil ¦# ¦# Yeongdeungpo YeouEidcoo SPaaerktganOglympic-daero Park Yeongdeungpo Nodeul-ro #ú 4 ¦# w 4 ¦# Noryangjin 4 Daebang w Doshinno ABCD æ Sights (p88) 4 Noryangjin Fish Market ..................................................... D4 63 Seaworld ........................................ (see 1) 63 Sky Art Gallery...............................(see 1) 1 63 Square...................................................D3 ý Entertainment (p88) 63 Wax Museum................................. (see 1) 63 Art Hall........................................... (see 1) 2 National Assembly .................................... A1 3 Yeouido Full Gospel Church .....................B2 Ø Sports & Activities (p94) 5 Eland Cruises............................................. D2 ú Eating (p91) 63 Buffet Pavilion ............................... (see 1) ÿ Sleeping (p151) Busan Ilbeonji .................................... (see 4) 6 Conrad Seoul............................................. C2

221 ITAEWON Map on p222 æ Top Sights (p99) 40 Southside Parlor ....................................... A3 41 Takeout Drawing .......................................G4 1 Leeum Samsung Museum of Art ............ G3 42 Takeout Drawing ....................................... A2 43 Trance ........................................................ E5 ú Eating (p99) 44 Venue/ ....................................................... D5 45 Ways of Seeing..........................................G4 2 Atelier du Saint-Ex.................................... D4 46 White Rabbit ...............................................A1 ITAEWON 47 Why Not ..................................................... E5 3 Baker's Table ............................................. A1 48 Wolhyang ...................................................H3 4 Bloc Party................................................... F6 5 Bua..............................................................D5 6 Coreanos Kitchen......................................A5 7 HBC Gogitjip .............................................. A1 8 Linus' BBQ .................................................B5 ý Entertainment (p104) 9 Lobster Bar ................................................B5 49 All that Jazz ............................................... E4 10 Passion 5................................................... H2 50 Rocky Mountain Tavern ........................... F5 11 PLANT ........................................................C5 51 Thunderhorse Tavern............................... A3 12 Suji's ...........................................................B5 13 Tartine ........................................................D5 þ Shopping (p104) 14 Vatos ..........................................................B5 52 Ando...........................................................D6 15 Zelen.......................................................... D4 53 Comme des Garcons ................................H2 54 Dynasty Tailor ........................................... B5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p101) 55 Eelskin Shop .............................................. C5 16 Against the Machine................................. H3 56 Hamilton Shirts ......................................... C5 17 Always Homme.......................................... E5 57 Millimetre Milligram ..................................G4 18 B1 ............................................................... D4 Post Poetics......................................(see 57) 19 Blue 55 .......................................................D5 58 Steve J & Yoni P ........................................G4 20 Booth..........................................................A2 59 What the Book........................................... C5 21 Booth Mansion ......................................... D4 22 Burn ............................................................A2 Ø Sports & Activities (p105) Cakeshop ..........................................(see 12) 60 Itaewonland ............................................... F5 23 Craftworks ................................................. F5 24 Craftworks Taphouse ...............................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p152) 25 Damotori .................................................... A1 61 Grand Hyatt Seoul .................................... F2 26 Flower Gin .................................................. A1 62 Guesthouse Yacht..................................... C4 27 Four Seasons .............................................D5 63 Hotel D'Oro ................................................ E5 28 G'Day ..........................................................A3 64 IP Boutique Hotel ...................................... F4 29 Grand Ole Opry.......................................... F5 65 Itaewon G Guest House............................ E5 30 Lovibond ....................................................B5 66 Itaewon Hostel & Inn................................. D5 31 Made in Pong Dang ...................................A2 67 POP@Itaewon Guesthouse ...................... B5 32 Magpie Brewing Co. ..................................A2 68 SP@Itaewon Guesthouse......................... C4 33 Miracle........................................................ F5 34 Mowmow................................................... D4 ï Information 69 International Clinic.................................... F5 35 Pet Sounds.................................................B2 70 Itaewon Subway Tourist Information Center ..................................................... D5 36 Prost .......................................................... D4 71 Itaewon Tourist Information Center........G4 37 Queen ......................................................... E5 38 Rose & Crown ............................................C5 39 Soho ........................................................... E5

222 B C D Key on p221 A ITAEWON 1 û# 25 û# 26 #ú 7 Sinheung-ro ú# 3 Hoenamu-ro û#ü##û2444263#û2#û 20 2 22 û# û# 35 #û 31 GYEONGRIDANNoksapyeong-daero ü# 3 28 #ò ý# 51 û# 40 hg See map 68 p224 #ÿ 4 #ÿ ¦# Noksapyeong 6#ú 62 3#û4#ûI4t4a2ú#e#úw1o5n18-r#ûoû#2217#úgû#a1-3g3#ïi6lIt¦#aewon #ý YONGSAN-GU 70 5 Bogwang-ro56#û Yongsan Banpo-roô#1459#þ 38 US Military Base 6 w ú# #þ Itaewon-ro 54#þ 30 û# ú#9 #þ 55 w #ú 12 8 ú# 67 5 ú#û#1#û9 #ÿ 27 #ÿ 11 ú# 66 52 #þ 7 ABCD

223 e# 0 200 m 0 0.1 miles E F GH 1 Hangangjin ¦# ITAEWON 61 #ÿ 2 ú# 10 Itaewon-ro 55-gil â# 1 53 #þ Leeum Samsung Museum of Art Itaewon-ro HANNAM-DONG 48 û# Itaewon-ro 27-gil û# 3 16 4 71 #ï 41 ü# 5 57 þ# 45 #ü #ý 49 64 #ÿ ÿ# #ÿ 63 69 #î 58 #þ 65 #ÿ Daesagwan-ro 50 ý# û# þ# 23 Ø# û# 60 29 U44û##ûs37aH#û3do37û#am9n-û#o1r7oH1i0ll-g#ûiß#l 33MCSeeoonsutqrluale ú# 4 Usadan-ro 6 Usadan-ro 10-gil Bo gwang-ro E 7 ijSee map GH p228 F

224 e# 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles 1 A HyPoachrkang Bww C D ji w¦# Sookmyung Women'sSee mapww w University p215 Namdaemun ¦# Namyeong HAEBANGCHON 1 YONGSAN‑GU ¦# GARWOL- 3 #æNoksapyeong-daero Hyochang DONG Baekbeom-no Park # Koridoor Tours War Memorial 2 2 Wonhyo-ro of Korea ¦# 2 â# DYongho-ro þ# 6 Samgakji ¦# Itaewon-ro Noksapyeong w Itaewon#¦ (500m) gh¦# Yongsan Yongsan US Military See map Base p222 #ï 8 ¦# Sinyongsan YONGSAN-GU 3 #þ 3 5 7 Ø# YEONGDEUNGPO-GU National Museum of Ichon ¦# Korea YoPnagrskan #â 1 44 Hangang ww Seobinggo#â-ro4 w Bridge Gangbyeon Expwy w ghSeobinggo ¦# Nodeun See map Island p230 5 ONloydmeupli¦#c Expwy Han River (Hangang) 5 Dongjak Bridge w ABCD æ Top Sights (p97) Ø Sports & Activities (p105) 1 National Museum of Korea.......................C4 7 Dragon Hill Spa & Resort.......................... B3 2 War Memorial of Korea .............................C2 æ Sights (p100) ï Information 8 Yongsan Train Station 3 HBC Art Village .......................................... D1 Tourist Information 4 National Hangeul Museum ...................... D4 Centre ..................................................... B3 þ Shopping (p104) 5 I'Park Mall...................................................B3 6 Yongsan Electronics Market.....................B2

225 e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles w ABCD gh Daehak-ro See map Dongmyo¦# D#ÿ 15 D p226 D 1 See map Seoul Folk Flea Market (500m); Hidden 1 p212 Jongno 5-gagh Track (1.6km); Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb ¦# 5 â# Medicine Museum & Market (1.8km) ij Dongdaemun ¦# #æ DONGDAEMUN & AROUND ¦# DoDnoIgnndfgaoderCammheuaemnotinuoHgnnis-TgCtCyooeereuny-rrcþ##ïteihesserttoa#þn91#þDrD0oen#þs11#ÿ14iggdn4a#âPemla3uzâ#anFa2s&hiRoenDtCWaOMhilheNAaoojrGnlaeegnDsagDgaCyAol-ehDenErceoaghMopmensUogyinmgNoWyCn-eiaSGcArehdUnoebtuooiqlnaWurMedasulHksMoeearuuhrsmkielel#ú((t(6119(...8384kkkkmmmm))));;;Dasan-ro Gwangjang MarketDongho-ro 2 (80m) DWoo Rae 2 Oak (70m) Eulji-ro & Cult#úure P8aý#rk ¦# & Park 7 æ# 1 13 ¦#Sindang D #ÿ Mareunnae-ro Dongdaemun History #ÿ 16 Seoul Forest (3km); & Culture Park Children's Grand Park (6km) ¦# GWANGHUI- 3 Toegye-ro DONG 3 Kyungdong #Ü Presbyterian Church Jangchungdan-ro Dongho-ro Dasan-ro See map p215 ¦# Cheonggu 4 4 Dongguk University ¦# Dongguk Ø# University Janchungdan 12 Park JANGCHUNG-DONG 55 ¦# Yaksu Singuemho ¦# ABCD æ Top Sights (p120) ý Entertainment (p123) 1 Dongdaemun Design Plaza & 8 Klive............................................................ B3 Park .........................................................B3 þ Shopping (p123) æ Sights (p121) 9 Dongdaemun Market.................................B1 2 Dongdaemun History Museum ................C2 10 Doota.......................................................... B2 3 Dongdaemun Stadium Memorial.............C2 11 Pyoung Hwa Clothing Market .................. B2 4 Heunginjimun ............................................ B1 Seoul Art Space Sindang .................. (see 6) Ø Sports & Activities (p123) 5 Seoul City Wall Museum ........................... B1 12 Jangchung Gymnasium............................ B4 ú Eating (p122) ÿ Sleeping (p154) Dongdaemun Market ........................ (see 9) 13 Dongdaemun Hostel & Inn ....................... B3 6 Jungang Market.........................................D2 14 JW Marriott Dongdaemun Square............B1 7 Samarkand.................................................B3 15 K Hostel...................................................... D1 16 Toyoko Inn Seoul Dongdaemun .............. B3

226 e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles A D Bukaksan BC (1.5km) Hyojae (300m); Gilsang-sa (350m); 5 1 Changgyeonggung-ro DKorea Furniture Museum (500m) #â 2 hg ü# 18 SEONGBUK-DONG 13 DAEHANGNO & SEONGBUK‑DONG D ú# 25 Seongbuk-#æro 3 #þ 12 ú# ü# 17 Samcheong Park SAMCHEONG-DONG #ÿ 3 27 SEONGBUK-GU Hyehwa-roHYEHWA-DONG Sungkyunkwan #ò 4 University MYEONGRYUN 2-GA þ# 26 28 #ÿ 5 4 Daemyeong-gilý# 20 æ# 22 ý# JONGNO-GU #þ 24 16 û# ú# 11 Dongsung-gilDONGSUNG- DONG Chundangji 15 ü#¦# Samcheong Hyehwa See map 19 p208 Park ý# Seoul National 1 DAEHANGNO University Daehak-ro #÷ #â 6 Medical College #î ý# 8 ý# 21 14 Seoul National 23 #â 7 û# University IHWA-DONG Hospital Ihwajang-gil æ#9 V# 2 YEONGEON-DONG 7 Yulgok-ro 29 #ÿ ijSee map p212 Jongmyo Park YeongnyAeongjeon B C D

227 EF æ Sights (p127) somun-dong 1-ga 1 Arko Art Center ...........................................D6 Dongsomun-ro ¦# Hangsung 2 Changgyeonggung ...................................... B7 UnSiavmerssietyo ngy o-ro 1 3 Choi Sunu House......................................... C1 SAMSEONG- DONG 4 Great Greenhouse ....................................... A5 5 Hyehwamun.................................................D3 DAEHANGNO & SEONGBUK‑DONG 6 Ihwa Maeul ................................................... E7 7 Lock Museum ..............................................D6 8 Marronnier Park ..........................................D6 9 Myeongjeongjeon ........................................ A7 10 Naksan Park................................................. E6 2 (p130) ú Eating Seongbuk-ro 4-gil 11 Deongjang Yesool........................................C5 Dong 12 Serious Deli .................................................. B1 13 Wood and Brick ........................................... B1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p131) 14 Dallyeora Gaemi 1........................................D6 15 Hakrim..........................................................C6 3 16 Mix & Malt .................................................... B5 Samseongyo-ro 16-g il On the Hill Cafe.....................................(see 6) 17 Slow Garden.................................................B2 18 Suyeon Sanbang ......................................... B1 ý Entertainment (p131) 19 ArkoPAC.......................................................D6 20 Dongsoong Arts Center ..............................D5 4 21 Jazz Story ....................................................D6 22 Seoul Theater Center..................................C5 23 Theatre Ticket Office ..................................C6 þ Shopping (p132) 24 10X10............................................................D5 25 Baek Baek .................................................... B1 26 Filipino Sunday Market ...............................C4 5 ÿ Sleeping (p154) Seoul City Wall 27 Eugene's House ...........................................C3 28 Inside Backpackers .....................................B4 29 Minari House................................................D7 NPaakrskan 6 ÷# 10 Naksan-g il N ak sanseonggwak-gil CHANGSIN-DONG 7 Changsin-gil ijæ#6 See map p225 EF

228 e# 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles AB D See map Hannam ¦# p222 1 YONGSAN-GU w C w Hannam ,# w Bridge Garosu-gil 41 gh Bogwang-ro Apguj5eo5n#ïg-þ#ro ¦# Apgujeong ji APGUJEONG & GANGNAM (HaHnagnaRnigv)er Nonhyeon-ro 20 #ú Dosan Park 49 #ÿ 13 ü# 44#ÿ0þ#6ú##â3S#ú1I7NSA-DDOosNanG-daero 29 #û 30 See map #Ø 28 û# 2 p224 RJaivPmearwrskiodne 44 Banpo Bridge ¦# Sinsa Hakdong Park æ#B2Maæ#1on0opnVoFlö#iioeguwhntptRoaOiainnliyntmbpoiwc Expwy Jamwon-ro ¦# Jamwon ¦# Hak-dong Banpo ¦# Sinbanpo-ro 3 Hangang Gyeongbu Expwy ¦# 23 û# Umyeon-ro Nonhyeon Park w BANPO-DONG NONHYEON-DONG GANGNAM-GU Eonju ›# 58 Sapyeong-ro ¦# 11 #ÿBongeunsa-ro ¦# Sapyeong æ# ¦# Express Bus Sinnonhyeon ¦# 53 ¦# Terminal #ÿ 45 4 w 43 51 #ÿ #Ø Seochojungang-ro ›# 56 #¦ 50 û# 22 #û 25 #ÿ æ# 4 27 #ûæ# ¦# Gangnam 5 æ# ¦# Seocho-daero 9 Seoul National 5 Gangnam-daero (U-Street) Gyeongbu Expwy #û ¦# University of 21 Education Seocho w Seocho-gu SaimdangS-gEilOCHO-GU Nambu Bus 6 ¦# Terminal ›# w Nambu Beltway 57 w¦# Yangjae ¦# Bangbae 7 Nambu Ring Rd #ý 34 32 ý# National Museum of Contemporary Art; D Gwacheon National Science Museum; Seoul Land (10km) ABCD

229 E æ Sights (p110) 33 Once in a Blue Moon ............ E1 34 Seoul Arts Center ................ B7 Apgujeong Rodeo 1 313 Art Project ...................... E1 þ# 39 14 #¦ 7 2 Banpo Bridge Rainbow ú# æ# û#2612#ÿ#ú5þ#4þ#2238ý#ú#19#úþ#13þ#6356þ#37 1 Fountain ............................ A3 þ Shopping (p116) 3 Fifty Fifty .............................. C2 35 10 Corso Como Seoul .......... E1 4 Gangnam Style 'Horse 36 Boon the Shop ...................... E1 APGUJEONG & GANGNAM Dance' Stage..................... D4 #â1 #â6 33 37 Boon the Shop (Men's) ........ E1 CHEONGDAM 5 GT Tower East ..................... D5 6 Horim Museum..................... E1 38 Boy+ by Supermarket.......... E1 -DONG â# 8 39 Galleria .................................. E1 7 K-Star Road .......................... E1 40 Garosu-Gil ............................ C2 K-Wave Experience .... (see 55) 41 Hyundai Department 18 48 Gangnam-gu 2 Museum of Gugak ......(see 32) Store ...................................D1 ú# ÿ# Office 8 Opera Gallery ........................E2 9 Samsung D'Light ................. D5 42 Pungwoldang ........................ E1 Hakdon2g-4ro#ü¦# Seolleung-ro Seoul Arts Center .......(see 34) Ø Sports & Activities (p117) Eonju-ro 10 Some Sevit........................... A3 43 Kukkiwon.............................. D4 11 Urban Hive ........................... C4 44 Spa Lei.................................. C2 ú Eating (p113) ÿ Sleeping (p152) Seonjeongneung 3 12 Coreanos Kitchen................. E1 45 24 Guesthouse Gangnam ¦# 13 Gilbert's Burgers & Fries..... C2 Center................................ D4 Seonjeongneung 14 Ha Jun Min ............................ E1 46 24 Guesthouse Garosu-gil.. C2 Park 15 Hanmiri..................................E4 47 H Avenue Hotel .....................E4 16 Jungsik .................................. E1 48 Kimchee Gangnam #ÿ#ÿ54 17 Lay Bricks............................. C2 Guesthouse ........................E2 47 18 Nonhyeon Samgyetang .......E2 19 Queens Park ......................... E1 49 La Casa................................. C2 ghYEOKSAM-DONG 50 M Chereville ......................... D4 ý# 31 Teheran-ro 4 20 Samwon Garden...................D1 51 Mercure Seoul û Drinking & Nightlife (p114) Ambassador 21 Booth.................................... D5 #¦ Yeoksam 22 Club Mass ............................ D4 Gangnam Sodowe ............ D4 ú# See map 52 Princess Hotel....................... E1 p230 15 Nonhyeon-ro 53 Ritz-Carlton Seoul ............... D4 23 Club Octagon ....................... D3 54 Tria Hotel...............................E4 24 Greenmile Coffee .................E2 25 Meakjugo.............................. D4 ï Information 55 Gangnam Tourist 5 26 Moon Jar ............................... E1 Information Center............D1 27 Neurin Maeul........................ C5 Oktoberfest................. (see 27) Dogok-ro 28 Pongdang ............................. C2 ï Transport 29 SJ Kunsthalle ....................... D2 56 Bus Stop for Everland Amusement Park.............. D4 30 Steamers Coffee Factory.... C2 57 Nambu Bus Terminal .......... C6 Take Urban................... (see 11) 58 Seoul Express Bus 6#¦ý3E1nLtGerAtartins mCeenntter (p115) Station ............................... B4 ......................E4 32 National Gugak Center........ B7 7 E

JAMSIL 230 e w# 0 2 km 0 1 mile ABC DE FG Ttukseom-ro 26 #¦ Gangbyeon Olympic Gangdong ¦# #› Bridge 1 ,#1 ¦# Ttukseom Resort Yongdong Gangbyeon Expwy Jamsil Bridge Ttukseom Railroad #¦ Gangdong-gu 15 â# Riverside Park Bridge Office Dunchon- dong 19 û# 25 #î #¦ Dosan-daero Olympic (HHaanngRainvge)r Jamsil #. â# 7 Bridge ,# Olympic w GOalynmgdpoincg-daero 2 See map ChePoanrgkdam Expwy BANG-DONG ÿ# Park # Swimming 2 ghp228 #÷ 3 3 24 Hakdong-ro ¦# Cheongdam ,#Olympic Expwy ¦# Seongnae â# 13 Mongchontoseong ¦# #ú 18 Jamsil w æ# OlympicPool 3 #¦SeonjeGoAn1Ng0nGG#æeUNunASgeMoS-nJ#¦ajuemBnosgnoeagnonBnnggeogeunÚ#ungegn1u2#þ-ns0#¦saa#B#æWTCoren1oa6ngrdtleredeournsa- 8 #æ Park w Velodrome 17 #. 21 -ro â# 14 12 # ¦# Ø# â# Sports #¦ Jamsil Olympic Complex Jamsil ¦# #Ø Bicycle Ø# æ# 6 SONGPA-GU Wiryeseong- Park 3-DONG 22 Ogeum-ro daero Sincheon Lotte Hire Asian #¦ Olympic-ro World #æ 2 Park #æ 5 Park Samseong #¦#ÿ 23 11 #æ 4 #æ Seokchon Lake Teheran-ro #¦ Bangi # DAECHI Ticket Booth for Seonjeongeung Yeongdong-daero#¦ Samseong-roSeolleung9 #æ ¦# Seokchon Seolleung-roYeoksam-ro w Garak Eonju-ro Tancheon 2 Songpa-daero Ogeum #¦ Bridge 4w 4 #¦ Hanti Hangnyeoul #¦ Garak ¦# A ¦#B Market ¦# Gaerong C DE FG

JAMSIL æ Top Sights (p108) 12 Seoul Baekje Museum ............................................ F3 Ø Sports & Activities (p117) 13 Seoul Olympic Museum.......................................... F2 1 Bongeun-sa..............................................................B3 14 SOMA ....................................................................... F3 21 Jamsil Baseball Stadium........................................ C3 15 SongEun ArtSpace.................................................. A1 2 Lotte World ..............................................................E3 16 Tangent....................................................................B3 Lotte World Ice Skating Rink...........................(see 2) 17 World Peace Gate ................................................... F2 3 Olympic Park ........................................................... F2 22 Seoul Sports Complex............................................ C3 æ Sights (p110) ÿ Sleeping (p152) COEX Aquarium ............................................(see 20) Lotte Hotel World.............................................(see 2) Folk Museum ................................................... (see 2) ú Eating (p113) 23 Park Hyatt Seoul ..................................................... B3 4 King Jeongjong's Tomb ..........................................A3 18 Seasons Table ......................................................... F2 24 Seoul Olympic Parktel .............................................F2 5 King Seongjong's Tomb..........................................A3 6 Lotte World Tower...................................................E3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p114) ï Information 25 Asan Medical Center .............................................. E2 7 Mongchon Museum ................................................ F2 19 Ellui ...........................................................................A2 8 Olympic Stadium.................................................... C3 9 Prugio Valley ........................................................... B4 þ Shopping (p116) ï Transport CALT .............................................................. (see 20) 10 Queen Jeonghyeon 20 COEX Mall ................................................................B3 26 Dong-Seoul Bus Terminal .......................................D1 Wanghu's Tomb....................................................A3 Lotte World Mall ...............................................(see 6) 11 Seonjeongneung .....................................................A3 JAMSIL 231

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Our Story A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. Our Writers Trent Holden Coordinating Author; Myeong-dong & Jung-gu; Itaewon & Around; Gang- nam & South of the Han River; Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul; Day Trips; Sleeping Having covered the length of the peninsula on other writing assign- ments – including a piece on the North for BBC Travel – this is Trent’s first gig working on the Seoul book for Lonely Planet. He had the not so shabby task of checking out its stunning mix of Joseon-era and modern architecture, world- class museums and galleries, countless bars and way too much good food. Trent has written 20- odd books for Lonely Planet, covering mainly Asia and Africa titles. You can catch him on twitter @hombreholden. Simon Richmond Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu; Western Seoul; Northern Seoul; Sleeping UK-born writer and photographer Simon first coordinated Lonely Planet’s Korea guide in 2009 when he explored Seoul and its surroundings over several weeks. He liked the place so much that his next visit, to update the 7th edition of Seoul, saw him spend over two months living in Seoul and getting to know it even better. For this edition, Simon covered central, northern and western areas of Seoul; he also hiked around the old city walls on a beautiful spring day and had an enjoy- able but messy time learning to make magkeolli. Follow him on Twitter, Instagram and at www. simonrichmond.com. Read more about Simon at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/simonrichmond Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – January 2016 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- ISBN 978 1 74321 002 4 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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