The_Cardigan_S_S_19_Category_Update

The Category Update S/S 19CardiganMen & Young Men: KnitwearCategory updates provide essential design direction forcommercial product development. These are the must-haveitems for the season, one year ahead of retail

Analysis The cardigan is given a new lease of life through the use of vibrant colour and Zara graphic pattern. A fresh, youthful approach Vogue Man Netherlands reinvents this classic item. – Bright colour, stripes and graphic checks update classic V-neck, collegiate and retro polo-collar styles – Authentic workwear, rustic looks and nautical pattern remain relevant for casual shawl-collar, slouchy and retro workwear-inspired styles – Silhouettes are boxy and oversized for a more casual mood, emphasising a younger influence – Minimalism continues to be important for core items. Pared-back detailing and single-colour looks feature clean finishes and smooth yarns for an elevated feel Union Los Angeles

Collegiate SportsThom Browne Collegiate and retro sports looks continue to be relevant for knitwear across both W Concept cardigan and V-neck styles. This look is suitable for the young men's market and popular with Korean brands such as MSKN2ND and directional designers such as Thom Browne and Maison Kitsuné. For a broader commercial application, consider a plainer effect such as contrast- colour plackets and stripes. These can be used either in single bands or as tipping along hems, cuffs and plackets. Summer renditions are enlivened with bold colour, as seen at Laneus, or worked in asymmetrical blocking. Classic navy and white combinations remain a fresh option for summer and transseasonal knitwear, whether in cotton or superfine merino ya r ns .Maison Kitsuné Maison Margiela Laneus

Slouchy EaseYou As Extreme volume was a driver for knitwear on the S/S 18 catwalks, with the slouchy Ader Error cardigan working as a more commercial offering in mid and fine gauges. This versatile item can be worn as a jacket and layered over tops, shirts and tees for a youthful transseasonal piece. Colourful renditions tap into feelgood summer and holiday looks. Retro sports looks are referenced through the use of vertical stripes at Burberry, while blocking details give it a contemporary sportif vibe. Soft yarns in the form of irregular plush yarns and worn effects highlight the ongoing popularity of cosy softness and tactility, also ideal for casual silhouettes. For crisper effects, classic cotton and merino blends are key.Iroquois Buro 24/7 Burberry

Bold PatternVogue Man Netherlands Statement pattern is used for the young fashion-led and directional market, worked W Concept in classic boxy V-neck silhouettes in both regular and oversized fits. Bold stripes, particuarly in vertical settings, remain key, called out at the S/S 18 catwalks and epitomised by Prada as retro styles remain on-trend. Brighter stripes in pastel tones look set to continue for S/S 19, with lilac, lemon and dusky pink key fashion colours. Checks have been enjoying a resurgence, with darker tartan effects seen on the A/W 18/19 catwalks and translating into transseasonal styles at Burberry. Paler options, such as windowpane checks, add a subtle pattern, keeping with the pared-back approach seen elsewhere in the woven c a te g or y.W Concept Burberry Ovadia & Sons

Classic SimplicityGQ The classic V-neck cardigan is given a younger edge and more premium feel. Singles Korea Colour is becoming increasingly important for the menswear sector, with a continuing interest in pastel tones, alongside the introduction of a bolder and brighter palette. As boundaries blur between casual and formal dressing, minimalist detailing continues to be key. A smarter feel is given to casual and smart-casual outfits with covered plackets, tubular trim finishes and smooth sportif yarns in plain solid-colour jersey stitch. Pastel and neutral tones work well to complete the pared-back and refined effect. Traditional sporty styles favour a relaxed and boxy silhouette, working well when layered over a simple tee, with an emphasis on a bold colour palette and discreet detailing. Contrast piping and placket detailing update this style in cotton and merino yarns.Esquire Maison Kitsuné Lacoste

Retro Style Maiden Noir Retro polo styles continue to uptrend, working well for both patterned and plain iterations. Deluxe Deveaux Utilitarian styles are important, with influences taken from vintage workwear silhouettes, as seen at Deluxe. A wider, boxier shape also nods to authentic skater and heritage denim brands. Use pared-back detailing in plain jersey stitch, a narrow collar and neutral palette of army green and indigo blue tones. Retro Americana and bowling shirt influences come into play through the use of vertical stripe settings in long- and short-sleeved styles. Wide stripes and blocking are teamed with a boxy silhouette. For more of a jacket feel, use a zip application and a wider shape. A more sartorial and refined effect can be achieved using a tonal palette in smooth merino or cotton yarns, as highlighted at Deveaux and Maiden Noir. Jigsaw Beams

Shawl CollarBand of Outsiders The shawl collar returns for casual summer looks, working particularly well for vacation El Burgues and nautical styles. A youthful mood at Stella McCartney sees the use of bright colour and graphic inserts. Alternatively, stripes and colour-blocking can be used. Robust ribs, garter stitch, cables and plain jersey stitch work here in mid- to heavy- gauge cotton yarns, enhancing the authentic feel. Nautical looks, such as stripes, and seafaring iconography, such as ropes, ship wheels and anchors, update the cardigan for a transseasonal cover-up. A palette of bright summer whites, blues and bold reds keep the look youthful and fresh.Christopher Lowman Katama Stella McCartney

Rustic Authenticity Visvim Rustic effects utilise textured stitch and yarn to create cosy homespun-style Coohem iterations. Keeping with the trend for casual loungewear, comfort and relaxed dressing are key. Vegetal yarns work well with this look, highlighted for S/S 19 at Pitti Filati. Tactile paper-touch and dry-handle effects, as well as slubbed, nepped, space-dye, taped and irregular constructions can be used for added texture interest on linen, organic cotton, hemp, nettle and wool blends. In addition to yarn interest, cable, basketweave stitches, marl and striped patterns work here, as called out in the S/S 19 Menswear Fabric & Details Buyers' Briefing, and are applicable to other knitwear categories. Silhouettes are oversized and slouchy. For directional markets, see the swing shape at Visvim, while for a more classic rendition, edge-to-edge and classic V-neck shapes work well. Saturdays NYC Missoni Krammer & StoudtPowered by TCPDF (www.tcpdf.org)