ML Cookbook 2020_Eng-23-3.1-sev

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Œufs Pochés aux Lentilles Vertes POACHED EGG WITH LENTILS “There‘s nothing like cooking eggs you have collected from the henhouse yourself. This dish is perfect as a first or a main course - cold in Summer or hot in Winter. The secret of poached eggs? Very fresh eggs and add white wine vinegar on the eggs before cooking them in boiled water! Enjoy with Gazin Rocquencourt Rouge 2015”. — Séverine Alternative wine option: Beaujolais, Moulin à Vent from Domaine Labruyère 30 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe Half pound/250g puy green lentils Put the lentils in a stewpot, cover with cold water and the stock. Bring gently to the 4 eggs boil, allow to simmer for about 20 minutes (the lentils should remain a little crunchy), 200g/7oz lardons made from high stirring from time to time. quality smoked bacon Fry the bacon in a dry frying pan over a medium high heat, until just crisp, drain on 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped absorbent kitchen paper. 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar For the dressing, in a bowl, emulsify salt, pepper, wine vinegar and olive oil with a Vegetable stock or 1 organic vegetable fork. stock cube Bring a shallow saucepan of water to a gentle simmer 4 tablespoons olive oil Crack an egg into a small bowl or ramekin, add the vinegar, then slide the egg into 1 bunch of chives Salt & pepper the water, lowering the bowl as close to the water as possible. Using a large spoon, gently fold any stray strands of white around the yolk. Repeat with the other eggs. Cook for 2-3 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon. Place the eggs in a small bowl of warm water where they can sit until needed. Drain the cooked lentils, pour them into a large bowl, add the shallots, bacon and vinaigrette. Combine and divide into 4 shallow plates. Sprinkle with chopped chives, place a poached egg on each plate, sprinkle with ground pepper and serve immediately. 52

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Caesar Salad ”This recipe has been improved over the years. It can be made with chicken or prawns. We like to serve it as main course, because the sauce is quite rich! That’s what makes it successful! It is also an incredible childhood memory for Jean-Jacques and I, as we spent part of our holidays in a summer camp in Colorado.” — Véronique Alternative wine option: DiamAndes Perlita Rosé 30 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 2 slices crusty artisan bread Prepare a really good salad – this is the heart of the dish, after all. Rub the bread 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved with a halved, raw garlic clove and cut into 1 inch/2cm cubes. Pour half the olive 1 large romaine lettuce oil in a deep-frying pan and heat over a medium high heat. Fry the bread, turning 250g/9 oz lardons, cut very finely frequently until the croutons are crisp and brown. Remove from the pan and set 150g/5 1/4 oz Parmesan shavings aside on absorbent paper. Keep the pan on the heat and add the lardons. Cook for 200g/7oz Parmesan, grated 3-4 minutes until brown, remove and set aside. 1 egg yolk 100ml/1/2 cup olive oil Now, focus on the dressing. In a bowl, beat the egg, mustard, salt and pepper. 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard Continue to beat together like a mayonnaise, drizzling in the remaining olive oil until A few drops of Tabasco thickened. Put a few drops of tabasco and a little lemon juice or wine vinegar. Add A few drops of Worcester Sauce some of the grated parmesan. The mixture will thicken. Under a thin trickle of water, Juice of half a lemon juice and/or 2 tsp continue to mix with a whisk to lighten the sauce. Not too much as it will lose its taste. You can adjust and add more parmesan according to the seasoning. You can wine vinegar also add a few drops of Worcester Sauce. Salt & pepper, to season A few anchovies – for those who like Put the lettuce in a bowl, add the bacon, the parmesan shavings, the anchovies (if used) and the croutons. Sprinkle generously with the sauce. them Tip – I always serve some extra sauce in a bowl for those who’d like some more. 54

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Poisson à la Bordelaise BORDEAUX-STYLE FISH “This is a dish that works with any fine fish. The key is not to overcook it, and to bear in mind the thickness of the fillets, which can vary quite a lot. It’s a perfect match for a white Bordeaux with a bit of age, like our 2015 Malartic.” — Michèle Alternative wine option: Alsace Riesling Geisberg from Kienztler 20 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 4 cod fillets Set a thick bottomed frying pan over a medium heat and melt the butter. Add the 120ml/1 glass dry white wine shallots and garlic and fry for 3-4 minutes until soft but not coloured. Pour in the 4 shallots, finely chopped white wine and allow to reduce by half. Remove from the heat and set aside. 1 garlic clove, finely chopped Juice of 1 lemon Preheat the oven to 180°C/355°F, fan 160°C/320°F, gas mark 4. 100g/3 1/2 oz of crispy breadcrumbs Pour the lemon juice into a bowl. Mix with the breadcrumbs, shallots and garlic, 2 tablespoons parsley 2 tablespoons olive oil parsley, salt and pepper. Add one or two tablespoons of olive oil to get a doughy - A knob of butter, for frying but not too doughy - consistency. Salt & pepper Lightly oil a baking dish. Place the fish fillets on it, cover them with the paste made from the parsley and shallots and sprinkle with the second tablespoon of olive oil. TO SERVE Bake for 15 to 20 minutes (depending on the thickness of your slices and the heat of New potatoes your oven). Serve with new potatoes. 56

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Filet de Bœuf au Barbecue, Sauce Béarnaise BARBECUED BEEF FILLET WITH BEARNAISE SAUCE “In Bordeaux, if you love great beef, you seek out Boeuf de Bazas, from a town around 50km away. We love fillet because it is so tender. In our family, Alfred’s efforts at the barbecue are made more difficult by each of us having their own preference - from very rare to well done. Perfect with the 2014 Malartic red.” — Alfred Alternative wine option: Côtes de Castillon, Domaine de l’Aurage 40 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 1 kg/2lb very good quality beef fillet Rub the meat with salt to create a crust on the surface once it is cooked. Salt (ideally (Fleur de Sel de Guérande) To cook it rare, grill for about 25 minutes (6 minutes on each of the 4 sides). To satisfy SAUCE BÉARNAISE our varied tastes, we cook it rare put a slice back on the grill. The centre of the meat 2 shallots, finely chopped will be very rare. 2 extra fresh egg yolks When the meat is cooked, leave it to rest for 10 minutes under aluminum foil before 125g/4 ½ oz clarified butter (butter serving. Meanwhile heat a small saucepan over a gentle heat. Add the shallots, vinegar, melted on low flame) white wine, peppercorns and half of the herbs. Heat until the liquid has reduced by 50ml/1/4 cup of vinegar 2/3, remove and leave it to cool. 20cl/1 ½ tablespoons of white wine Beat the egg yolks in a small bowl with the water (one teaspoon per egg) and add 2-3 stems of tarragon the reduction. Return the bowl to the heat, in a bain-marie, on a very low heat and 2-3 stems of chervil stir constantly. Keep the mixture at around 140°F/60°C and watch regularly. Add 5-6 Peppercorns, crushed the clarified butter gradually while stirring. Cook for 10 minutes until it becomes Salt & pepper creamy. Salt and add the remaining chopped tarragon. Serve hot. Tip – At home, we will barbecue the beef for 25 minutes over vine shoots or preferably staves from barrels that are no longer used. We have the wood cut into pieces that are around a foot long/30 to 40 cm, and Jean-Jacques builds them into a structure rather like the game of Jenga or Kapla. 58

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Autumn Harvest time is preceded by impatience and anxiety over In the winery, every individual bunch is treated with the the best date to pick the grapes in each plot. There's an greatest care. Unripe, shriveled or imperfect berries are ideal target window for each that mustn't be missed. The removed by hand as they pass along a sorting table before fruit has to be rich in flavour and at precisely the perfect being crushed and put into fermentation vats in the case level of ripeness. of black grapes, or barrels for whites. At Malartic, all the grapes are harvested by hand and Jean-Jacques calls fermentation the 'transcription' of the pickers need to know what they are doing. However, terroir, the process of revealing the unique identity of the task is not always easy. There are days when they will Malartic. only work for a few hours, and sometimes several when nothing will happen while Jean-Jacques and his team wait The end of the harvest is marked by a grand celebratory for the grapes to reach optimum maturity. meal called La Gerbaude. It’s an unforgettable moment shared by the family, the whole team and all the Each morning, they tour the plots that seem nearly ready harvesters. to harvest, tasting the grapes, and separately focusing on the juice the skins and the pips before deciding on the As the wine ferments, in the vineyards horses pull ploughs picking day. between the rows of vines to prepare them for a well- deserved winter sleep. As soon as the white grapes begin to ripen at the beginning of September, they start to thin out the leaves After harvest, Bordeaux winegrowers are often lucky on the sunset side of the vines whose black grapes will be enough to enjoy a few beautiful weeks of Indian summer. the last to be picked. When the days shorten and the first white frosts appear in the morning, the vineyards are decorated with autumn The red wine harvest generally begins a week or two after colours and the landscapes are sumptuous. It is a moment the whites. It’s an intense period that, depending on the as fleeting as it is magnificent, and a season for forest ripeness of each plot and the weather, and, at Malartic, walks and mushroom picking, especially the delicious involves the daily coordination of around 100 men and Bordeaux wild mushrooms - cepes. It is also the time women who pick the bunches, carry the paniers and of roasted chestnuts, whose traditional smells have, for ensure that only the finest grapes are used. centuries, been an autumnal signature of the city streets. 61

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Harvest Winemaking is that magical moment of the year when the winery, the berries are transported directly to the first the yeasts on the skins of the grapes will transform the floor of the building in traditional 600-1,000kg/1,300- sugar into alcohol. This is the alcoholic fermentation 2,200lb containers called douils, and gently poured into during which, for red wines, the colour and tannins are the tanks. extracted. The polyphenols contained in the skins and pips are an essential component of the flavour and structure of The daily tastings of each vat during the first three weeks the wines. It is a process of maceration that’s identical to can raise doubts as well as confidence. It is a slow process, that of tea: the longer you leave the leaves in your cup, the that requires patience and attention so as not to extract more you stir, the stronger and more concentrated your too much. tea will be. However, it can become dry in the mouth and astringent, even bitter. The challenge for a winemaker is This is where the winemaker’s longer- and shorter-term to find the right balance and extract as much as possible memory is important: he knows the personality and without going too far. Obviously, the task is easier when behaviour of each plot - terroir - from previous vintages, you have high quality grapes with complex aromas, and and remembers the taste of the skins and pips when they naturally rich and intense flavours that can be extracted were harvested. These points of reference are essential and far more gently. allow him to deal with the inevitable moments of doubt when it’s time to stop fermentation. At the devatting Nature is generous in allowing grapes to release their stage, the wine is transferred from the vats to barrels, characteristics sequentially. The first elements to emerge where each batch is kept separately, like pieces of a puzzle are silky and elegant, and associated with the juice of ripe that will be assembled later in the winter. fruit. They are, however, only part of what one is looking for in a great red wine for laying down. For the rest, the The remaining skins and pips, which have not yet quite skin and pips must be preserved as carefully as possible finished their work, are delicately pressed and set aside. and not torn or crushed. This is why at Malartic the grapes What they produce is the ‘press wine’, which will be also a are moved by gravity. Thanks to the difference in height component of the final blend. between the gravel terrace where the vines are located and 63

Velouté de Petits Pois PEA SOUP “The freshest first course, maybe with some peas on top. It’s delicious hot but I like it cold, in small glass bowls, as an aperitif with a good glass of wine or Champagne!” — Séverine Alternative wine option: Champagne Laurent-Perrier Brut 20 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 400g/14 oz peas (ideally fresh and In a saucepan, fry the shallot in a little olive oil over a gentle heat until soft, but not organic, but frozen if unavailable) plus coloured. Add the peas and combine. Pour over the chicken stock and nutmeg and a few extra for garnish gently simmer for 10 minutes. 100ml/1/2 cup of a mix of fresh cream Stop cooking and blend the soup to a very smooth, velvety texture (using a sieve and sour cream. (or coconut milk if necessary). Stir through the cream and gently mix. Season to taste and serve in according to your taste) bowls, decorated with the remaining peas, ham or bacon and parmesan shavings. 2 small shallots, finely chopped 1 litre/4 ¼ cups hot chicken stock A grating of nutmeg Salt & pepper, to season TO SERVE A few fine slices of serrano ham (or thin slices of bacon) A few shavings of parmesan 64

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Empanadas de DiamAndes DIAMANDES-STYLE EMPANADAS “I love all our visits there, the landscapes, the people and the food and wine. Everyone makes empanadas, and every family has its own recipe, and they can be made small for finger-food aperitifs, or larger as a light meal, with tomato salad and green salad. I learned this from our chef at DiamAndes.” — Véronique Alternative wine option: Cahors Malbec from Château Lagrezette 60 MINUTES MAKES 30 SMALL EMPANADAS Ingredients Recipe 3 medium hard-boiled eggs + 1 egg Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat and add the onions. Fry for 4-5 yolk minutes until they are soft but not coloured. Add the beef into the pan and continue cook for roughly 15 minutes. Stir through the herbs, turmeric and paprika. Season 2 tablespoons olive oil well and allow to cool. 3 medium onions (1 kg), finely chopped 500g/2 cups good quality beef mince Roll out the pastry, and make 3 inch/8 cm diameter circles for small empanadas, A handful of oregano, finely chopped or larger ones (6 inch/15 cm). 2 tsp herbes de provence Put a large tablespoon of stuffing in the center of each circle (it's easier when the ½ teaspoon Espelette pepper (or stuffing is cold) and a small piece of hard-boiled egg. Close in a half-moon shape and fold a little pastry on the upper edge with your fingernail so that it sticks well. paprika) ½ teaspoon turmeric Beat an egg yolk (with a drop each of olive oil and water) and brush a little on top Salt & pepper, to season to make it shiny and golden when baked. 4 rolls of puff pastry Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F, fan 170°C/340°F, gas mark 5. Prepare baking sheets with greaseproof paper and put on the finished empanadas. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until golden. Serve straightaway or eat cold the following day; both are delicious! Tip – The secret: twice as many onions as meat! And add a small piece of boiled egg inside each empanada. Depending on your location and your taste, you will find herbs to season your stuffing. 66

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Soles Grillées Sauce aux Champignons GRILLED SOLE WITH MUSHROOMS “We are so close to the Atlantic, so we can get very easily delicious sole and it’s a very fine fish. The pairing with a 10-year-old 2010 Malartic white is magical.” –Séverine Alternative wine option: a mature Condrieu from Domaine Vernay 20 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 500g/a generous pound /1 lb button Cut off the foot of the mushrooms, rinse 3 times with lemony water and slice them. mushrooms, sliced Heat half the butter in a frying pan over a low heat. Fry the mushrooms until soft but 70g/2½ oz butter not coloured: about 5-6 minutes. Season well and set aside. 8 Sole filets or 4 gutted and skinned Heat a second frying pan over a medium heat and add the butter. Fry the fillets for soles 2-3 minutes each side (or more depending on the thickness of the fish), turning them 1 shallot, sliced gently through cooking. Add a little oil if necessary, to prevent them from sticking. 150ml/1 generous cup dry white wine Once cooked, keep warm. 150ml/1 generous cup fish stock Deglaze the frying pan with dry white wine and fish stock. Season lightly, return the 200ml/generous ¾ cup fresh cream mushrooms to the pan, cover and gently bring to the boil. Leave to simmer for 2 1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley, chopped minutes. Reduce the liquid to three quarters, then stir through the cream. Let reduce Salt & pepper gently by half. Incorporate a further knob of butter into the sauce and adjust the seasoning. Pour the sauce and the mushrooms into the hot serving dish, place the fillets on top. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately. Tip – This dish is delicious with brown rice. 68

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Omelette aux Cèpes OMELETTE WITH PORCINI MUSHROOMS “Whenever I cook this, I remember the meal we had at Malartic with the cellist Mistlav Rostropovitch in 2004. The dinner hadn’t been planned at all, and we made the omelette with what we had to hand, and enjoyed it with some good bottles, including a memorable 2000.” — Alfred Alternative wine option: Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne from Chapoutier 20 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 500g/a generous pound /1lb of fresh Cut off the mushroom stalks, then clean them with a dry cloth. On a chopping board, cépes/porcini mushrooms or other cut them into small pieces. Set aside. mushrooms In a bowl, break the eggs and beat well with a fork. Mix in the chopped parsley. 9 organic medium eggs At this stage, you can add grated gruyère cheese, but if the mushrooms are good, A small handful flat leaf parsley, finely there is no point in doing so. Season well. chopped Heat a large knob of butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Once the butter is 50g/1¾ oz butter melted, add the mushroom and fry in the hot pan. Stir regularly. Add the eggs. Cook Gruyère (optional) a few minutes over a low heat so that the whole thing takes the consistency of an Nutmeg (optional) omelette, as firm or runny as you wish. Add nutmeg if you like. Salt & pepper, to season Usually, ours are quite runny and we enjoy them with a green salad. 70

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Pain de Viande MICHÉLE’S MEATLOAF “In Belgium, everyone has their own recipe, and this one was originally perfected by my grandmother Alice. I like to make it with mushrooms, and to drink it with a Réserve de Malartic 2014.” — Michèle Alternative wine option: Clos de los Siete from Argentina 20 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 20g/ 3/4 oz soft breadcrumbs Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F, fan 170°C/340°F, gas mark 5. 100ml/1/2 cup semi skimmed millk Empty the breadcrumbs into a small bowl and pour the milk over them. Allow the 400g/14 oz of minced pork 400g/14 oz veal or ground beef breadcrumbs to soak for a minute or two before pouring off any excess. Set aside. 1 onion, finely chopped Meanwhile, empty both minces, onion, parsley and mushrooms and mix well. Add 1 small bunch of parsley, finely chopped 100g/3 1/2 oz chopped button the soaked breadcrumbs, nutmeg, egg. Mix well. Season to taste. Spoon the mixture into a oven dish, form into a tightly-packed oval shape and brush mushroom 1 pinch of nutmeg the top with melted butter. Bake for 45 minutes. 1 egg Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce: heat the oil in a frying pan, over a medium heat. 1 teaspoon of salt Pepper, to season Add the onion and soften over a gentle heat for 5-6 minutes. Add the dried herbs, FOR THE SAUCE and continue to cook, stirring, for a couple more minutes. Add the tomato puree. 2 tablespoons olive oil Pour in the tinned tomatoes and season with salt. Stir well and then simmer very 1 onion, sliced gently uncovered for about 30 minutes or until the sauce is lovely and thick. 2 large garlic cloves, chopped Remove the meatloaf from oven and serve with peas or cold on a slice of toasted 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence and buttered country bread. 4 tablespoons tomato puree 2 x 400g/14 oz tins good quality Tip — this is a great dish to make with beef, pork or even chicken left-overs. chopped tomatoes 72

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Confit de Canard, Pommes Sarladaises DUCK CONFIT, WITH SARLADAISE POTATOES “Ducks are a very south-west thing, and confit is one of our favourite ways to cook them. The meat on goose legs is actually finer, but it’s harder to find. The key is to get the skin nice and crisp. We make it with potatoes sautéed in duck fat – with a Réserve de Malartic 2014.” — Jean-Jacques Alternative wine option: Clos Fourtet from Saint-Emilion 25 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 4 duck legs Remove as much of the fat surrounding the duck legs as possible and set aside 2 1.2 kg/2 3/4lb of firm-fleshed potatoes tablespoons of it. or new potatoes if in season Take a frying pan (ideally with fairly high edges because the fat tends to splash). 2 garlic cloves, sliced Arrange the legs, skin-side down and, adding no fat, allow to brown for as long as 2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped it takes to boil the potatoes. Once the skin is crisp, turn the legs over. Do not hesitate Salt & pepper, to season to remove a little fat if necessary. You can also cook them in the oven, but using a frying pan keeps the skin crisper. Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1cm thick slices. Alternatively, wash the potatoes well and leave the skin on. Melt the reserved fat in a large frying pan, add the potatoes and leave them to cook for about 20 minutes over a low heat, turning them often: they should be golden brown but soft inside. Add a little salt and pepper. Sprinkle with garlic and parsley and stir for 2 minutes: the garlic should turn pale, but don’t let them burn, which would give them a bitter taste. Serve with a nice green salad. 74

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Winter This is the time of year when the winegrowers must Meanwhile, in the cellar, the red wine undergoes its prepare the vines for hibernation, and ensure that they are second fermentation, which naturally converts its malic in the best shape to start again in the spring. acid into a creamier lactic acid. During this process, the wine is very difficult to taste. Ploughing begins after the harvest to cover the soil around the foot of the vines with earth to protect them Winter seems to be quiet in the vineyard but the Bonnie from the cold. Farm workers begin pruning, removing family and their team have their hands full. It is certainly dead wood and shaping the vine for the next vintage. too early to taste the new vintage, but professionals and wine lovers around the world are eager to taste the wine Now is also the season, when the dead or older vines that has just been bottled. This is also the best time of year (60 to 90 years old) are replaced by younger ones, with to meet buyers and importers from all over the world and rootstock adapted to the soil and the grape variety. organise dinners and tastings where the Bonnie family likes to share their know-how, philosophy and good Some soils have natural affinities with certain grape bottles. varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, varieties that ripen later and bring finesse, elegance and tannic The property remains open to visitors and wine lovers structure to the blend, prefer plots of fine gravel. The continue to come in large numbers to take part in more expressive and fleshier Merlot and Semillon also gastronomic sessions, cooking classes and other events appreciate well-irrigated gravel soils with a little more clay. with multiple themes. Malartic is a dynamic place of The Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc ripen earlier exchange, whatever the season. than the others and appreciate clay soils whose cooler temperatures protect them from the summer heat. However, work leaves time for leisure and there are plenty of opportunities for family excursions, to the snowy slopes Global warming, which has brought forward the start date of the nearby Pyrenees to the culinary mecca of San of the harvest in recent years and accelerated the ripening Sebastian, on the other side of the Spanish border. Closer of the grapes, has also led Malartic, like other chateaux, to home, the city of Bordeaux dresses itself in glittering to recognise that certain sunny plots are now better suited winter garlands and light. Snow is quite rare in the region to Cabernet Sauvignon than to Merlot and replant these and when it makes an appearance and covers the gardens vineyards accordingly. and vineyards, it is all the more magical. 77

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Blending Along with the harvest, in Bordeaux where almost every musician orchestrating a symphony for a wide range wine is a combination of grape varieties, soils and terroirs, of instruments, the blender works with diverse grape blending is one of the highlights of the year. The process varieties, young or older vines individual micro-climates, begins as soon as the harvest is over. During vinification, soils and aspects – terroirs – and differing harvest dates. Jean-Jacques and the team sample the contents of the Some of the wine will have been in newer barrels; some in vats every day as they are transformed from grape juice to one year old barrel. decide when they are ready to go into barrel and left to evolve by themselves with less frequent interruptions. The extra challenge lies in looking beyond how the wine tastes now to the way it will have evolved over the time, In November, the task of assembling the Grand Vin and and over the decades that a great wine may spend in a the Second Wine begins with the whites. At Malartic, the cellar before being enjoyed. To achieve this requires a lot two varieties used for these are Sauvignon and Semillon, of experience and memories of how previous vintages while the reds are made up of Cabernet-Sauvignon, tasted when they were young – and the way they changed Merlot, Cabernet-Franc and Petit-Verdot. Blending these over time. has to wait until the end of the year when the wine has finished its malolactic fermentation. In mid-February the final decisions are made in good time for the week in April when merchants and media The Bonnies and their winemaking team meet several will taste the results ‘En Primeur’. After that, the wine will times to carry out this highly precise and complex process spend another year in barrel for all of its components to that cannot be rushed. It calls for intense concentration harmonise before bottling. and a clear vision of the wine and the vintage. Like a 79

Paupiettes Oiseaux sans Tête PAUPIETTES OF VEAL “These ‘headless birds’ are traditional throughout French-speaking Belgium and especially associated with Brussels. Traditionally prepared at home, nowadays they are more often bought ready-made from butchers. Some French butchers make them, but they don’t taste the same, so we still make our own. it’s worth it, because they are so delicious, and go so well with wines like the Gazin Rocquencourt 2015!” — Michèle Alternative wine option: Château Fontenil, Pomerol. 60 MINUTES SERVES 4-6 Ingredients Recipe 400g/14 oz Beef carpaccio Make the stuffing. Put the bread into a medium-size bowl and wet it with milk, wring 400g/14 oz minced veal and pork (or it out and puree it. Mix well with the eggs, minced meat and half of the mushrooms, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. stuffing from your butcher) 300g/10 1/2 oz button mushrooms, Make the paupiettes. Spread thin slices of beef on kitchen string. Put a small ball of stuffing in the center of the carpaccio. Fold the slices of beef to entirely enclose the finely chopped ‘parcel’ and close with kitchen string. 2 slices bread 2 tablespoons flatleaf parsley, finely This should form an even roulade about 12 cm/4.5 inch in length. Heat the olive oil heavy based casserole pot over a medium high heat. Brown the chopped 100ml/1/2 cup milk roulades all over. Sprinkle with cornflour and add a little water to 2/3 of the height 2 medium eggs of the paupiettes. Season with salt and pepper. Cook gently in small broth for about 1 tablespoon olive oil 45 minutes. 2 teaspoons cornflour Brown the rest of the mushrooms in a buttered frying pan. Remove the roulades, set Salt & pepper aside and reduce the broth. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook for a few minutes, adding cornflour to thicken if necessary. Serve the paupiettes with fusilli and the mushroom sauce. 80

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Moules Marinières & Frites MUSSELS AND CHIPS “Mussels and chips! So easy to cook and so traditionally Belgian! I always like to use the same wine for the sauce as I serve with the dish - the white Malartic.” — Jean-Jacques Alternative wine option: Muscadet from Louis Métaireau or maybe a Martin Codax Albariño from Spain. 30 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 3kg . 6.5lb mussels Clean the mussels by scrubbing them well under a running tap. Pull off the ‘beards’ 30g/1oz salted butter and throw away any mussels that are cracked or remain open when tapped. Go 1 large onion, chopped on cleaning until all the grit has gone. 2 small celery stalks, chopped into 1cm Heat the butter in a large saucepan over a gentle heat. Add the onion, celery and crescents garlic and sweat for 8-10 minutes. The vegetables should be soft but not coloured. 200ml/generous 3/4 cup dry white Throw the mussels into the pot, pour over the white wine and add the pepper and herbs. Stir well and cook for 6 to 7 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time and wine stirring so that the mussels that are on the surface can go to the bottom of the pan A pinch black pepper, and open. A small bunch flatleaf parsley, finely As soon as they are all open, remove the mussels and serve immediately with a chopped generous helping of French fries! 3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked 1 bay leaf Salt & pepper, to season 82

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Stoemp WINTER VEGETABLE PURÉE “A traditional name and dish from northern France and Brussels, Stoemp is like a cross between purée and soup. A real winter meal that kids love as much as we do. I love to vary the vegetables and to cook the Stoemp the way my grandmother Georgette used to, with Brussels sprouts and leeks and accompanied by her delicious lamb ragout. Delicious with a Réserve de Malartic 2016.” — Véronique Alternative wine option DiamAndes Perlita Malbec-Syrah 60 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 500g/a generous pound of carrots, Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the potatoes and cook until peeled and cut into 2cm/1 inch they are done. Drain and run under cold water. chunks Repeat with cabbage, adding the stock cube to the water. 1 kg/2 ¼ lb of floury potatoes, peeled In the meantime, fry the carrots in butter and a little oil. Brown them and add some and cut into large chunks herbes de Provence with a small amount of the water used to cook the cabbage. A pinch of salt Cover and cook for 20 minutes. 700g/1 1/2lb green cabbage, core Mash the potatoes and cabbage together coarsely with a fork, adding half of removed and cut into quarters the milk and butter. Add the carrots to the mixture, allowing most to break up, but 1 vegetable stock cube keeping some caramelised pieces intact. 50ml/1/4 cup milk Allow the rest of the butter to melt on the mashed potatoes. Season with salt and 60g/2 oz butter pepper. Mix well. Serve very hot. Salt & pepper Grated nutmeg 84

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Filets Mignons de Porc aux Morilles FILLET OF PORK WITH MOREL MUSHROOMS “In an ideal world, you would make this with fresh morel mushrooms but the chances are that, like me, you will have to use ones that have been dried, canned or preserved in a jar. A festive meal to share with friends or family, and a great match for a more mature red or white like the 2012 Malartic red or for a more original pairing a 2010 white.” — Séverine Alternative Wine Option: Nuits Saint Georges 1er cru ‘Aux Perdrix,’ Devillard 45 MINUTES SERVES 4 Ingredients Recipe 40g/1 1/2 oz of dried morel Soak the morels in warm water for 15 minutes, then cook them a further 10 minutes in mushrooms or more if possible. You boiled water. Drain and filter the water through muslin or a coffee filter to remove can never have enough! any sand or grit. Set the liquid aside. A glug of olive oil Heat the oven to 190°C/375°F, fan 170°C/340°F, gas mark 5. Add the oil and 30g/1oz butter half the butter to a heavy based frying pan and heat over a high heat. Add the pork 2 pork filet mignon (500g/a generous fillets and brown on all sides before transferring to an ovenproof dish and putting in the oven, topped with the remaining butter. Cook for 15-20 minutes, the meat pound) should be very slightly pink inside. 2 shallots, finely chopped 150ml/1 generous cup of white wine Return the frying pan to a gentle heat and fry the 2 shallots, in the remaining fat. 150ml/1 generous cup creme fraiche Deglaze the juices with white wine, let evaporate for 2 minutes then pour in the water in which the morels were cooked. Simmer again. (or half-fresh, half sour cream) 1 tablespoon of strong mustard Sliced the soaked morels in 2 lengthwise and add them to the pan with the fresh Salt & pepper, to season cream and mustard, and leave to reduce until the desired consistency is obtained. TO SERVE Remove the filet and cut it in 1 inch / 3 cm slices. Serve, with fresh tagliatelle and 400g/14 oz Tagliatelle with the morel sauce in a sauceboat. 86

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Gigot de Sept Heures, Fondue de Carottes SEVEN-HOUR LEG OF LAMB WITH CARROT FONDUE “This recipe could be called ‘at least’ seven hour lamb, because you can cook it in the oven for even longer. It should be so soft that you can serve it with a spoon, and the carrots are also cooked very slowly with butter. A meltingly soft and very tasty meal to share over Christmas! The classical pairing is with a red Bordeaux like the 2011 Malartic.” — Séverine Alternative wine option: Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande from Pauillac 30 MINUTES SERVES 6 Ingredients Recipe 2-4 tablespoons olive oil Heat the oven to 150°C/300°F fan 130°C/570°F gas mark 2. 1 x 1.8 - 2kg/4 ½ lb leg of lamb Brown the lamb in an ovenproof casserole dish with olive oil, when it has a nice 6 carrots, cut into large pieces 2 celery sticks, cut into large chunks golden color sprinkle with ground pepper and set aside. 2 medium onions, cut into wedges Heat the oil in the same deep casserole pot over a medium heat. Add the onions, 3 small shallots, sliced 6 cloves of garlic, left whole shallots and cloves and fry until brown for 7-8 minutes. Add the carrots and season 600ml/2 ½ cups hot stock (veal or well. Add the wine and continue to cook for a further 5 minutes, until the liquid has reduced slightly. vegetable) Nestle the leg of lamb in the casserole, sprinkle over the hot stock (at two thirds), 100ml/1/2 cup white wine cover and place in the preheated oven. Cook for 7 hours, basting the meat every 1 bouquet garni hour. The lamb will be ready when the meat is falling away from the bone. Remove Salt & pepper fat using a large spoon, and discard. Before serving, take out the lamb and keep warm. Reduce the juice, strain and serve the vegetables with the meat. 88

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Oie de Noël, Farcie aux Morilles et Marrons CHRISTMAS GOOSE STUFFED WITH MOREL MUSHROOMS AND CHESTNUTS \"The traditional Christmas or Thanksgiving meal – for which you can use a goose, a turkey or a capon if you can find one. It’s a magical dish to share with friends and family. The children love it, but at Christmas, of course, they know there are presents to open afterwards. Fabulous with a Malartic red 2000.\" — Michèle Alternative wine option: Champagne Laurent-Perrier 2004 4 HOURS SERVES 6-8 Ingredients Recipe 1 goose (approx. 4-5.5kg/10-11lb) Calculate the cooking time for your goose: cook for 10 mins at 240°C/465°F fan 220°C/430°F/gas 9, then reduce temperature and cook for 30 mins per FOR THE STUFFING: lb/500g at 190°C/375°F, fan 170°C/340°F, gas 5. Allow 30 min to rest. A knob of butter, for frying A glug of olive oil, for frying Make the stuffing. Melt butter in a heavy bottomed pan; soften onions, garlic and 20g/3/4 oz dried morels, soaked in shallots over med. heat. Remove and set aside. warm water for 30 minutes then rinsed Wipe the pan clean, add a touch of oil and chicken livers. Fry lightly until they are just and finely chopped cooked but still remain pink in the middle. Remove and add to onions. 100g/3 1/2 oz cooked chestnuts 200g/7oz minced beef Add a little more butter to the pan, keep the heat at medium and add morels. Sauté 100g/3 1/2 oz chicken livers, cut into for 5-6 minutes. Add onions and chestnuts. small pieces 1 medium egg, beaten Add minced beef, yoghurt, egg and parsley. Mix thoroughly and season well. 2 tablespoons plain yoghurt Season the cavity of the goose generously with salt, then add stuffing. Sew the 2 shallots, sliced 2 garlic cloves, sliced opening with kitchen string. Oil the outside and brush with thyme. Spread the wings A small handful of flatleaf parsley, and legs to facilitate the cooking. roughly chopped Transfer goose to oven to roast. After 30 mins, turn the bird on its side and baste 2-3 springs of thyme generously, then repeat every 30 mins to ensure even cooking. Pour off the fat Salt & pepper through a sieve into a large heatproof bowl. You will end up with at least a litre of luscious fat – save this for the potatoes and other vegetables. At the end of the cooking time, leave to rest for at least 30 mins, covered loosely with foil. The bird will not go cold, but will be moist and much easier to carve. To serve, carve goose and accompany it with rice, celery purée and extra chestnuts. 90

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Ingredients & Tips Some of the ingredients listed in these recipes may not always be easy to find outside France, so here are a few alternatives, along with one or two pieces of inside information from the French kitchen. Fleur de Sel de Guerande Butter This speciality - literally ‘flower of salt’ from the village The French take butter seriously, often buying it at the of Guerande - is prized by French gourmets as the finest market where it is cut from a block. More importantly, of all sea salts, and commands over 100 times the price when a French cook talks about butter, they mean of humbler examples. Associated with the shallow salt unsalted Beurre Doux - litterally sweet. Salted butter beds of Brittany on the Atlantic coast, the fleur is the comes in two forms, the popular demi-sel - half salt - and name given to the layer of delicate crystals that float on frankly salé - salted. the surface of the water. Once, the job of harvesting them with a rake was only done by women, and it is still a Crème Fraiche highly skilled task. When French recipes refer to cream, they are usually talking about crème fraiche which has around 40% fat If you can’t find fleur de sel, you could substitute Maldon and a slightly sour flavour that is the result of having or Kosher Salt or vigorously boil small quantities of sea had a little lactic culture added to give it a longer shelf or salt in a frying pan until the water evaporates and flakes fridge life. (If you are buying cream in France and don’t are created that can be collected in a sieve. Neither option want that sour note, look out for crème liquide, fleurette is nearly as good as the real thing, but better than basic sea or crue, though the latter is unpasteurised and not always salt. available). To replicate crème fraiche quickly, mix standard cream with sour cream - to your own taste. Alternatively, Espelette Pepper you can make your own version by adding buttermilk or Piment d’Espelette is a variety of chilli pepper from live yoghurt to fresh cream. (If you can’t get buttermilk, Espelette in the Basque region that is important enough you can make that too by mixing a tablespoonful of lemon to have its own appellation. Paprika or Smoked Paprika juice with 250ml of whole or skimmed milk and leaving at are alternatives but not really substitutes. room temperature for 10 minutes before refrigerating.) 93

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Serving Wine Glasses Temperature Archaeological excavations in Georgia have proved that Temperature has as much of an effect on wine as on food. man has been making wine for at least eight thousand Cheese is never best straight out of the fridge, and the years. Glasses have only existed for half of this period; optimum temperature for most red wines is a little above for millennia, wine was drunk – and enjoyed - from clay the ideal wine cellar temperature of 13°C/55-56°F. Young bowls or hollow animal horns. red Bordeaux wine is best drunk between 16°C/61°F and 18°C/65°F and slightly older wine will be enjoyed slightly It was not until the 20th century that the influence of cooler, between 14°C/57°F and 16°C/61°F. Never serve a the shape of the glass on tasting was seriously considered. rich dry white Bordeaux too cold. It will be much better Today, some enthusiasts have glasses of different sizes for between 11°C/52°F and 13°C/55°F. each type of wine. But most of us don't need to go that far, even though the subtle qualities of a great wine are Decanting easier to appreciate from fine crystal glasses whose shape There are two reasons for decanting. The first is to remove and size show off its aromas. the fine ‘deposit’ that has developed at the bottom of the bottle of an old red. To decant it more easily, leave the Corkscrews bottle upright for at least 48 hours before opening, or Although wine-growing regions are increasingly adopting filter it through a muslin cloth. screw caps, you will still need a corkscrew in Bordeaux. These instruments, invented in the seventeenth century, The second reason is to aerate the wine, which allows now come in a multitude of formats, some of which work all the aromas to be released. Young Bordeaux or white better than others. Good ones take the form of a metal Burgundy can benefit from being decanted, too. The spiral, while the best – the folding 'waiter’s friend' - uses a Bonnie family like to decant their 10-year-old whites, as lever action and include a blade with which to remove the they are doing for the reds. The decanter shows off their top of the capsule. colour and decanting brings out the aromas. For old bottles, you may also need a clever two-bladed Fine Bordeaux can be drunk when it is almost a hundred tool called an ‘Ah So’ that allows you to remove old, fragile years old, but these will need to remain in their original corks without them crumbling. bottle so as not to lose their delicate aromas. These are rare experiences, certainly, but unforgettable. 95

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Wine Tasting “The person who knows how to taste wine is not just drinking, but experiencing its secrets.” — Salvador Dali The term ‘wine tasting’ frightens many who are afraid of more lemony. A great Bordeaux is almost always a blend having to learn how to hold their glass correctly and the and will rarely have the aromas of a single fruit. The ‘right’ words to use. For those who want to make wine complexity of these wines is like that of fine perfumes that a hobby, or possibly a career, these kinds of detail make bring together a multitude of notes rather than the smell sense. Otherwise, wine tasting requires nothing more of one flower. than focusing on what you are drinking. It’s like listening to a pianist, rather than letting his music play in the Over time, the fruity characteristics will gradually evolve background. into more complex tertiary aromas, which may include notes of leather, tobacco, undergrowth or dried fruit for First judge the wine’s appearance. For a red, the intensity red wines, and honey and dried fruit for whites. and colour intensity will reveal something about its youth or maturity. Smelling is also tasting (it’s hard to appreciate flavours when you have a cold) and your tongue should usually – Then the nose. The aromas are very revealing. Each grape but not always - confirm impressions picked up by your variety has its own characteristics: some are fruity, evoking nose. red or black berries; citrus or tropical fruits; some are spicy or woody; others are floral. Cabernet Sauvignon On the palate, the wine will reveal its texture. Too much has aromas of blackcurrant and black fruit, its cousin the tannin in a red will make it mouth- drying ; not enough, Cabernet Franc is more fragrant with notes of raspberry indicates a short lifespan. Both reds and whites need and violet. Merlot is reminiscent of plums and red cherries acidity to keep their freshness, but here again, it's all a while Petit Verdot has a spicy character and smells of question of balance. And pleasure! blackberry and cherry. The greatest wines persist in the mouth for a surprisingly Sauvignon Blanc is known for its fresh ‘grassy’, ‘herbal’, long time and their secrets remain in your memory gooseberries and tomato leaf aromas, while Semillon is forever. 97

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How Wine is Made Winemaking should be the simplest activity in the world that makes a great wine. Even if it can be noticeable in — easier than making beer, bread or cheese. In theory, all a young wine, it should never dominate. This is why the you need to do is grow and then pick a few grapes, press proportion of new oak varies from one year to another. them and let the yeast on their skins turn their juice into wine. To return to fermentation, the skins of the grapes are not only essential to give red wines their colour but also, with Of course nothing is ever that simple. In the vineyard, the help of the pips, the structure that will allow the wine the choice of matching grape varieties to the soil climate to age and improve for decades. is crucial. As is the care given to the vines during the growing season to help them bear healthy flavoursome During the aging period, each barrel is tasted individually grapes, and the critical decision of the ideal moment to to decide whether it will be blended into the Grand Vin pick them. or the second wine. The winegrower then becomes an oenologist, they work on three vintages simultaneously: Once the grapes have been carefully sorted by hand, the one ready for bottling, the one in the process of the winegrower becomes a winemaker. In one respect, maturing, and the newcomer, fresh from the vineyards. vinifying white wine is more straightforward than red because there is no need to extract colour from the skins. When he was a child, Jean-Jacques Bonnie could never All that is required is to press the bunches of grapes and have imagined that he would go to college in Bordeaux to let the juice ferment in vats or oak barrels. learn these techniques, let alone that he would also soon be vinifying at Bodega DiamAndes, the family estate in The choice of these barrels for red or white is not made Argentina, where the harvest begins and ends six months casually and calls for in-depth knowledge of one's earlier than in France. vineyards, wine and the characteristics of the vintage. In Bordeaux, French oak is used for all of the best wines. In both countries, Jean-Jacques and Véronique work with Each forest produces wood with its own characteristics, their highly skilled teams to present the unique character and each cooper has his own style. of each vineyard to wine drinkers across the world. They know that each vintage is a part of a long voyage to an Over time, the vanilla note naturally given by the new oak even finer destination. will become part of the complex combination of flavours 99

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