Sri Lanka

299 Hinduism is a complex mix of beliefs and gods. All Hindus believe in Religious Peo ple o f Sri L a n k a R e li g i o n Brahman: the myriad deities are manifestations of this formless being, Hubs through which believers can understand all facets of life. Key tenets in- clude belief in ahimsa (nonviolence), samsara (the cycle of births and Nallur Kandas- deaths that recur until one reaches a pure state), karma (the law of cause wamy Kovil, Jaffna and effect) and dharma (moral code of behaviour or social duty). Temple of the Hindus believe that living life according to dharma improves the Sacred Tooth Relic, chance of being born into better circumstances. Rebirth can also take animal form, but it’s only as a human that one may gain sufficient Kandy self-knowledge to escape the cycle of reincarnation and achieve moksha Kechimalai (liberation). Mosque, Beruwela Our Lady of Madhu For ordinary Hindus, fulfilling one’s ritual and social duties is the Church, Madhu main aim of worldly life. According to the Hindu text Bhagavad Gita, doing your duty is more important than asserting your individuality. The Hindu pantheon is prolific: some estimates put the number of deities at 330 million. The main figures are Brahma, who created the uni- verse, and his consort Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and music; Vish- nu, who sustains the universe and is lawful and devout, and his consort Lakshmi, the goddess of beauty and fortune; and Shiva, the destroyer of ignorance and evil, and his consort, Parvati, who can be the universal mother or the ferocious and destructive Kali. Shiva has 1008 names and takes many forms: as Nataraja, lord of the tandava (dance), his graceful movements begin the creation of the cosmos. Islam NAMES Sri Lanka is home to almost two million Muslims – descendants of Arab traders who settled on the island from the 7th century, not long after Islam was founded in present-day Saudi Arabia by the Prophet Moham- med. Islam is monotheistic, and avows that everything has been created by Allah. After Mohammed’s death the movement split into two main branches, the Sunnis and the Shiites. Sunnis emphasise following and imitating the words and acts of the Prophet. They look to tradition and the major- ity views of the community. Shiites believe that only imams (exemplary leaders) can reveal the meaning of the Quran. Most of Sri Lanka’s Mus- lims are Sunnis, although small communities of Shiites have migrated from India. All Muslims believe in the five pillars of Islam: the shahada (decla- ration of faith: ‘there is no God but Allah; Mohammed is his prophet’); prayer (ideally five times a day); the zakat (tax, usually a donation to charity); fasting during the month of Ramadan; and the hajj (pilgrim- age) to Mecca. Christianity Want to understand more Christianity in Sri Lanka potentially goes back to the Apostle Thomas in the 1st century AD, and it’s certain that in the early centuries AD small about people’s numbers of Christians established settlements along the coast. names in Sri Lanka? It’s all With the Portuguese in the 16th century, Christianity, specifically revealed at Roman Catholicism, arrived in force, and many fishing families http://asiarecipe. converted. Today, Catholicism remains strong among western coast- com/srinames. al communities. The Dutch brought Protestantism and the Dutch Reformed Church, mainly present in Colombo, while evidence of the html. British Christian denominations include stone churches that dot the Hill Country landscape.

300 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sri Lankan Tea Sri Lanka is the world’s fourth-largest tea-producing nation. The Dutch may have come to the island for spices, but the country is now more associated with an imported plant – tea. Today, even the national cricket team’s shirts bear sponsorship by Ceylon Tea. PLANTATIONS Shaping the Nation Tea plantations Tea came to Sri Lanka when extensive coffee plantations were decimated cover about by disease in the 19th century. The first Sri Lankan tea was grown in 1867 at the Loolecondera Estate southeast of Kandy. Plantation owners discov- 1900 sq km. This ered that the Hill Country combines a warm climate, altitude and sloping is primarily in the terrain: a winning trifecta that’s perfect for growing tea. hill country and adjoining regions, Shipments of Ceylon tea began filling London warehouses in the 1870s. especially in the The public’s thirst for a cuppa proved nearly unquenchable. Fortunes were made by the early growers, which included a name still famous south. worldwide today: Thomas Lipton. By the 1890s, Lipton’s tea plantations were exporting around 30,000 tons of tea back to London. Tea production continued to spiral upwards in the 20th century. For- ests were cleared and plantations greatly expanded. A running war was fought with various pests and diseases that afflicted the crops, and all manner of chemicals were created to keep the tea plants healthy. Today Sri Lanka is the world’s fourth-biggest tea-producing nation, with an annual figure of 340 million kilos in 2013. Sri Lankan tea (brand- ed internationally as ‘Ceylon’ tea) enjoys a premium positioning and its sale prices are well above those of rival nations. The annual value of the Sri Lankan tea crop is over US$1.5 billion. Despite the British roots of the industry, most Ceylon tea today is ex- ported to the Middle East and North Africa (53% of all exports in 2012), followed by Eastern Europe and Russia (24%). Besides the various forms of ubiquitous black tea, in 2013 Sri Lanka produced 3.69 million kilos of green tea, which is known for its more pungent flavour, and white tea, which is among the most premium of teas and is often called ‘silver tips’. Quality The many varieties of tea are graded by size (from cheap ‘dust’ through fannings and broken grades to ‘leaf’ tea) and by quality (with names such as flowery, pekoe or souchong). Obviously, tea sized as dust is rather inferior. Anything graded in the leaf category is considered the minimum designation for respectable tea. In terms of quality designations, whole leaves are best and the tips (the youngest and most delicate tea leaves) are the very top tier. The familiar name pekoe is a superior grade of black tea. Interestingly, there is no definitive record of where the ‘orange’ in the popular orange pekoe moniker comes from. It definitely has nothing to do with flavour but rather is either an artefact of a designation used by early Dutch tea traders or a reference to the colour of the leaves when dried. Either way, orange pekoe is a very superior grade of Ceylon black tea.

Altitude 301Sri L a n k a n Te a C u lti vati o n All the island’s Altitude is another vital indication of tea quality. Udawatte (high-grown teas are branded tea) is considered the finest; it grows slowly but has a delicate, subtle with a ‘Lion Logo’, flavour that makes it greatly sought after – Dimbula, Nuwara Eliya and which denotes Uva are three prime growing districts. Udawatte is grown above 1200m. that the tea was produced in Sri Medawatte (mid-grown tea) has floral and malty notes and a fullness of body but is less refined; Kandy is the main centre of production. It’s Lanka. picked at altitudes of 600m to 1200m, and occupies the middle ground in price and quality. In a (probably unintentional) bit Yatawatte (low-grown tea) is stronger, higher in caffeine and more robust, but it’s not considered as complex; it’s found below 600m. of honesty the The foothills inland of the coast are centres of low-grown production: nation’s main tea Ratnapura and Galle are two important districts. producers funded Cultivation a marketing arm in 1932: the Tea bushes are typically planted a metre or so apart on contoured terraces to help irrigation and to prevent erosion. A tea bush is around 1m (3 ft) in Ceylon Tea height, and is regularly pruned to encourage new shoots, prevent flower- Propaganda ing and fruit formation and maximise leaf production. Adequate rainfall is essential, as is fertilisation. Board. Tea leaves are plucked by hand every seven to 14 days, a task tradition- ally carried out by Tamil women in Sri Lanka. The pluckers have a daily target of between 20kg and 30kg (44 to 66 pounds). After plucking, the tea leaves are taken to a factory where they are left to wither (demoistur- ised by blowing air at a fixed temperature through them). You’ll spot the huge factory buildings throughout tea-growing country. Many are more than 100 years old. The partly dried leaves are then crushed, starting a fermentation pro- cess. The green leaves quickly turn a coppery brown as additional heat is applied. The art in tea production comes in knowing when to stop the fermentation, by ‘firing’ the tea at an even higher heat to produce the final, brown-black leaf that will be stable for a reasonable length of time. Finally the tea is separated and graded according to leaf size. The workers who regulate the myriad variables to take a day’s pickings and produce proper tea, which will demand the premium prices Sri Lan- kan tea producers count on, are high up the ladder on the plantations. There is a definite art to the process, which has been refined over decades. It only takes 24 hours from the time tea is picked to process it and load it in bags for shipment. DRINKING BLACK TEA Although black tea is usually forgiving, there are still right and wrong ways to prepare a cup. For maximum enjoyment, keep the following points in mind. ¨¨Store tea in an airtight container, whether it is loose or in tea bags. It’s prone to absorbing odours, which are especially harmful to some of the delicate blends or flavoured teas. ¨¨Use fresh water and boil it (water that’s been boiling for a while or which was previously boiled gives you a flat-tasting cup of tea). ¨¨Too accustomed to tea bags? With loose tea, it’s one teaspoon per average-sized cup plus one extra if you’re making a pot. ¨¨Let the tea brew. It takes three to five minutes for tea to fully release its flavour. ¨¨Conversely, once the tea is brewed, toss the tea leaves, whether they were loose or in a tea bag. Tea leaves quickly get bitter once brewed. ¨¨For milk tea, pour the milk into the cup and then add the tea: the flavours mix better.

Sri Lankan Tea Tea Workers302 Tea Workers After water, tea is the world’s Sri Lanka’s tea industry is responsible for more than one million jobs – most popular about 5% of the entire population. At around US$4 per day, wages for tea drink. More tea is pickers remain very low. Compulsory pension and funeral payments erode drunk every day them further. than every other drink – including Most families live in seriously substandard housing, barracks-like coffee, soft drinks buildings (known as ‘lines’) on the fringes of plantations. Few have and alcohol – put running water or electricity, and wood and coal stoves used for cooking together. and heating cause respiratory diseases. The vast majority of tea workers are Tamils. Originally the British tea barons intended to hire Sinhalese workers but the labour was unappealing to the locals, so the plantation owners looked to India. Huge numbers of Tamils were brought over. Today they remain one of the most marginal- ised groups in the nation. Most are landless, classified as ‘Indian Tamils’, and disadvantaged by linguistic and cultural differences (including a caste system). CHIOLULNTRY Visiting Tea Plantations A great introduction to the endless rolling green fields of the Hill Coun- try’s tea plantations is riding the train from Ella to Haputale. In just a few hours you’ll see dozens of plantations and their emerald-green carpets of plants. Amid it all you’ll see sari-clad pluckers toiling under the sun, busily meeting their quotas for the day. Tea factories and plantations throughout the Hill Country provide tours to explain the process, usually using machinery and technology that are largely unchanged since the 19th century. Some of our favourite places to get up close and smell the tea include: Ceylon Tea Museum (p149) Near Kandy. An informative early stop in your tea tour. Labookellie Tea Factory (p166) A factory well positioned by the Nuwara Eliya road if you’re in a hurry. Hundungoda Tea Estate (p121) Near Koggala. Produces over 25 varieties of tea. Pedro Tea Estate (p167) Near Nuwara Eliya. Has tours of the factory, which was originally built in 1885. Dambatenne Tea Factory (p176) Near Haputale. Built by Sir Thomas Lipton in 1890 and offers full-on tours. In the Hill Activities Country you can stay in a variety There are all manner of hikes, treks and rides through the Hill Country’s of colonial-era tea regions. Here are three of our favourites. ¨¨A 10km bicycle ride through tea plantations that begins in Nuwara Eliya. cottages that ¨¨A 7km walk through tea plantations to the lookout Lipton’s Seat near Haputale. were used by ¨¨A 4.5km walk through verdant hills to the lookout Little Adam’s Peak near Ella. tea-plantation Buying Tea managers. Located in Tea is inexpensive, easy to pack and much loved by almost everyone so it beautiful settings, makes an excellent gift for others at home – or yourself. The tea factories they are attrac- and plantations in the Hill Country have a bewildering array of options tive and evocative on offer. There are also many good shops in Colombo. places to sleep. Ceylon black tea is the best known and is famous for its citrusy taste. Green Ceylon is characteristically pungent, with a slightly nutty flavour. Ceylon Silver Tips tea is produced from very young buds that are silvery white, have a delicate flavour and command premium prices.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Survival Guide DIRECTORY A–Z. . . 304 Travellers with Disabilities. . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Accommodation. . . . . . . . 304 Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Customs Volunteering. . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Regulations. . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Women Travellers. . . . . . . . 311 Discount Cards. . . . . . . . . 305 Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 TRANSPORT. . . . . . . 312 Embassies & Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 GETTING THERE Food. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 & AWAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Gay & Lesbian Entering the Travellers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Sea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Internet Access. . . . . . . . . 308 Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . 308 GETTING AROUND. . . . . 313 Maps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Air. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Money. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Bicycle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Opening Hours. . . . . . . . . 308 Bus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Photography. . . . . . . . . . . 308 Car & Motorcycle. . . . . . . 314 Public Holidays. . . . . . . . . 309 Hitching. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Safe Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Local Transport. . . . . . . . . 316 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Train. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Toilets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Tourist Information. . . . . 310 LANGUAGE . . . . . . . . 318 Glossary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323

304 Directory A–Z Accommodation out as the hotel won’t want SLEEPING PRICE to be banned from the book- RANGES Sri Lanka has all types of ing website. accommodation ranging The following price from rooms in family homes Some midrange and ranges refer to a double to five-star resorts. With top-end hotels quote room room with bathroom tourism booming, prices prices in US dollars or eu- in high season. Unless have been increasing rapidly. ros, but accept the current otherwise stated, rooms Wherever you stay be sure rupee equivalent. Note that come with a fan, and tax to bargain over the price as a service charge of 10% is included in the price. negotiation is common. will usually be added to the $ less than Rs 4500 rate you’re quoted. At many $$ Rs 4500 to 12,000 Rates are very seasonal, hotels an additional Value $$$ more than particularly at beach resorts. Added Tax (VAT) of 14.25% Rs 12,000 The prices quoted in this is added, which can make for guide are typical high-season a big surprise at check-out. or top-end hotels that have rates; look for good dis- Reviews in this guide include ossified. There are almost counts in the low season. The the addition of both service always better choices near- high season is December to charge and VAT. by, so look around. April on the west and south coasts, and April to Septem- Types of BUDGET ber on the east coast. Accommodation There are budget guest- houses and a few budget Note that there are reports Guesthouses and hotels pro- hotels across Sri Lanka; they of a few hotels refusing to vide the majority of places vary widely in standards and honor prepaid reservations to sleep in Sri Lanka. In rural price. made on sites such as agoda. areas, almost every place is com. They’ll tell you that if a guesthouse. The difference Expect the following you want to stay you’ll need is that hotels will usually be amenities: to pay rack rate (always in- larger and offer more servic- ¨¨fans in most rooms, air-con flated) and that you will then es beyond a person minding in only one or two (fans are need to get your money back the desk. Often guesthouses fine in the Hill Country and from the booking website. are family-run. right on the beach) This is usually a scam. Bring ¨¨maybe hot water printed confirmations and Almost every place to stay ¨¨private bathroom with have the local contact num- will serve meals. Note that shower and sit-down flush ber for the booking website. it’s easy to stumble upon toilet One call should sort things places that are quite inferior, ¨¨wi-fi (in many cases) whether it’s a guesthouse ¨¨simple breakfast renting rooms by the hour ¨¨laissez-faire but cheery staff. BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommen- dations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

305 LUXURY RENTALS D i rec to ry A–Z C u stoms R eg u latio n s Sri Lanka has some beautiful rental villas, old colonial mountain retreats and other luxurious and exclusive accommodation options. Three good places to start browsing: ¨¨www.villasinsrilanka.com ¨¨www.lankarealestate.com ¨¨www.vrbo.com MIDRANGE guesthouses or hotels, often 230V/50Hz Midrange guesthouses and with beautiful gardens and hotels are the most common antique-stuffed living rooms. Embassies & choices throughout Sri Lan- Consulates ka. Most provide a decent Customs level of comfort, although Regulations It’s important to realise the some can be quite nice, limits of what your embassy with a range of services and Sri Lanka has the usual list of can do if you’re in trouble. views. Choices include well- prohibited imports, including Generally speaking, their run colonial-era hotels (that drugs, weapons, fresh fruit hands are tied if you’ve haven’t turned far upmarket) and anything remotely por- broken Sri Lankan law. In real and stylish places on or near nographic. emergencies you might get a beach. some assistance, but only if Items allowed: all other channels have been Expect the following ¨¨0.25L of perfume exhausted. Embassies can amenities: ¨¨1.5L of alcohol. recommend hospitals, ¨¨maybe a balcony, porch There are duty-free shops in doctors and dentists. or patio the arrivals area before you ¨¨satellite TV reach baggage claim at the Unless indicated, the ¨¨small fridge airport. Besides booze they following embassies are in ¨¨air-con in most if not all include appliances such as Colombo: rooms blenders and refrigerators. Australian High Commis- ¨¨wi-fi (in most cases) sion (Map p64;%011-246 ¨¨maybe a pool. For more details, see Sri 3200; www.srilanka.embassy. Lanka Customs (www.cus- gov.au; 21 RG Senanayake TOP-END HOTELS toms.gov.lk). Mawatha/Gregory’s Rd, Col 7) Top-end hotels range from Canadian High Commis- small stylish boutique affairs Discount Cards sion (Map p64;%011-532 in colonial mansions to lavish 6232; www.srilanka.gc.ca; 33-A five-star resorts. An International Student ID 5th Lane, Col 3) Card is not widely recognised French Embassy (Map Expect the following in Sri Lanka. p64;%011-263 9400; www. amenities: ambafrance-lk.org; 89 Rosmead ¨¨good service Electricity Pl, Col 7) ¨¨usually enticing views – German Embassy (Map ocean, lush valleys and rice The electric current is 230V, p64;%011-258 0431; www. fields or private gardens 50 cycles. Plugs come in a colombo.diplo.de; 40 Alfred ¨¨usually a pool bewildering range of varia- House Ave, Col 3) ¨¨spa. tions. Besides the primary plug type shown here, you Villa rentals are taking off may well find US, EU and in beachy areas, especial- British-style plugs in your ly along the south coast. room. Specialty accommodation includes the former homes of Adaptors are readily avail- British tea-estate managers able at markets, supermar- in the Hill Country, which kets and tourist shops for have been converted into under Rs 500.

D i rec to ry A–Z F ood306 are casual at best and down- right bad at worst in many GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE kitchens throughout the country. Government advisories are often general and guaran- teed to allow for bureaucratic cover should trouble oc- Availability & Cost of cur. However, the following sites also have useful tips: Health Care ¨¨Australia (www.smartraveller.gov.au) ¨¨Canada (travel.gc.ca) Medical care is hugely vari- ¨¨New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz) able in Sri Lanka. Colombo ¨¨UK (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice) has some good clinics aimed ¨¨US (www.travel.state.gov) at expats; they’re worth using over options aimed at Indian High Commission Food locals because a superior (Map p64;%011-232 7587; standard of care is offered. www.hcicolombo.org; 36-38 See Eat and Drink Like a Embassies and consulates Galle Rd, Col 3) Local (p34) for information often have lists of recom- India Visas (%011-255 9435; about Sri Lankan food. mended medical providers. www.ivsvisalanka.com) Indian visas are issued by an inde- Gay & Lesbian Self-treatment may be pendent contractor with offices Travellers appropriate if your problem in Colombo, Kandy and Jaffna. is minor (eg traveller’s diar- Check the website for details and Same-sex sexual activity is rhoea). If you think you may to download forms in advance. illegal in Sri Lanka and the have a serious disease, espe- subject is rarely discussed cially malaria, do not waste Maldivian High Commis- publicly. No one has been time: travel to the nearest sion (Map p68;%011-258 convicted for more than 60 quality facility to receive at- 7827; www.maldiveshighcom.lk; years, but it pays to be dis- tention. It is always better to 25 Melbourne Ave, Col 4) creet. There is no legislation be assessed by a doctor than to protect LGBT people from to rely on self-treatment. Netherlands Embassy harassment. (Map p64;%011-251 0200; Before buying medication srilanka.nlambassade.org; 25 The situation is changing, over the counter, always Torrington Ave, Col 7) and Colombo has a low-key check the use-by date and scene. You can be more open ensure the packet is sealed. UK High Commission in cosmopolitan areas such Colombo and larger towns (British High Commission; Map as Col 1, Col 3 and Col 7. all have good pharmacies; p64;%011-539 0639; ukin most medications can srilanka.fco.gov.uk; 389 Equal Ground (%011-567 be purchased without a Bauddhaloka Mawatha, Col 7) 9766; www.equal-ground.org), a prescription. US Embassy (Map p64; Colombo-based organisation %011-249 8500; srilanka. supporting gay and lesbi- Health Insurance usembassy.gov; 210 Galle an rights, sponsors pride Rd, Col 3) events, offers counselling Even if you’re fit and healthy, services and has useful on- don’t travel without health line resources. insurance: accidents do happen. A travel or health EATING PRICE Health insurance policy is essential. RANGES You may require extra cover While the potential dangers for adventure activities, The following price of Sri Lankan travel may such as scuba diving. If your ranges refer to a stand- seem worrisome, most trav- normal health insurance ard main course. ellers experience nothing doesn’t cover you for medical more serious than an upset expenses abroad, get extra $ less than Rs 450 stomach. Travellers tend insurance. If you’re unin- to worry about contracting sured, emergency evacuation $$ Rs 450 to 1200 infectious diseases, but in- is expensive, and bills of fections rarely cause serious more than US$100,000 are $$$ more than Rs 1200 illness or death in travellers. not uncommon. Note that hygiene standards Vaccinations Specialised travel-medicine clinics stock all available vaccines and can give spe- cific recommendations for your trip. The doctors will consider factors including your vaccination history,

307 your trip’s duration, activities travellers consider the Polio Incidence has been unre- D i rec to ry A–Z H ealth you may be undertaking and following vaccinations for ported in Sri Lanka for several underlying medical condi- travellers to Sri Lanka (as years but must be assumed to tions such as pregnancy. well as being up to date with be present. measles, mumps and rubella Rabies Three injections in all. A REQUIRED vaccinations). booster after one year will then VACCINATIONS provide 10 years’ protection. The only vaccine required by Adult diphtheria and tetanus Typhoid Recommended for all international regulations is Single booster recommended if travellers to Sri Lanka, even if yellow fever. Proof of vacci- none in the previous 10 years. you only visit urban areas. nation will only be required if Hepatitis A Provides almost Varicella If you haven’t had you have visited a country in 100% protection for up to a year. chickenpox, discuss this the yellow-fever zone within Hepatitis B Now considered vaccination with your doctor. the six days before entering routine for most travellers. Sri Lanka. Japanese Encephalitis Recom- Water mended for rural travel, people RECOMMENDED who will be doing outdoor activ- Tap water is not safe to VACCINATIONS ities, or anyone staying longer drink. Use bottled or filtered The US Centers for Disease than 30 days. water; for the former, look Control (CDC) recommends for the small round ‘SLSI’ AYURVEDA Ayurveda (eye-your-veda) is an ancient system of medicine using herbs, oils, metals and animal products to heal and rejuvenate. Influenced by the system of the same name in India, Ayurveda is widely used in Sri Lanka for a range of ailments. Ayurveda postulates that the five elements (earth, air, ether, water and light) are linked to the five senses, which in turn shape the nature of an individual’s constitution – his or her dosha (life force). Disease and illness occurs when the dosha is out of balance. The purpose of Ayurvedic treatment is to restore the balance. For full-on therapeutic treatments, patients must be prepared to make a commitment of weeks or months. It’s a gruelling regimen featuring frequent enemas and a bare mini- mum diet of simple vegetable-derived calories. Much more commonly, tourists treat themselves at Ayurvedic massage centres at- tached to major hotels and in popular tourist centres. Full treatments take up to three hours and include the following relaxing regimens. ¨¨Herbal saunas (Sweda Karma) are based on a 2500-year-old design. The plaster walls are infused with herbal ingredients, including honey and sandalwood powder. The floor of the sauna is covered with herbs. Like a European sauna, a steady mist of medicinal steam is maintained with water sprinkled onto hot coals. ¨¨The steam bath (Vashpa Swedanam) looks like a cross between a coffin and a torture chamber. Patients lie stretched out on a wooden platform, and a giant hinged door covers the body with only the head exposed. From the base of the wooden steam bath, up to 50 different herbs and spices infuse the body. ¨¨The so-called Third Eye of the Lord Shiva treatment (Shiro Dhara) is the highlight for many patients. For up to 45 minutes, a delicate flow of warm oil is poured slowly onto the forehead and then smoothed gently into the temples by the masseuse. While there are numerous spas with good international reputations, the standards at some Ayurvedic centres are low. The massage oils may be simple coconut oil and the practitioners may be unqualified, except in some instances where they may even be sex workers. As poisoning cases have resulted from herbal treatments being misadminis- tered, it pays to enquire precisely what the medicine contains and then consult with a conventional physician. For massage, enquire whether there are both male and female therapists available; we’ve received complaints from female readers about sexual advances from some male Ayurvedic practitioners. In general it’s not acceptable Ayurvedic practice for males to massage females and vice versa.

D i rec to ry A–Z I n s u ra n ce308 Drug use, mainly locally Moneychangers logo, which shows the water grown marijuana, but also has been tested by the imported heroin and meth- Moneychangers can be found government’s Sri Lanka amphetamine, occurs in in Colombo and major tourist Standards Institution (the tourist centres such as centres. Their rates are com- majority of local brands). Hikkaduwa, Negombo and petitive but choose carefully, Unawatuna. Dabbling is as money-exchange scams Insurance perilous; you can expect to abound. Stick to banks or end up in jail if you’re caught reputable offices, such as Unless you are definitely using anything illegal. those at the airport. ATMs sure that your health cover- are safer and more reliable. age at home will cover you Maps in Sri Lanka, you should take Tipping out travel insurance – bring Digital maps, online and in a copy of the policy as evi- apps by Apple, Bing and Although a 10% service dence that you’re covered. Google, are usually up to date. charge is added to food and accommodation bills, Worldwide travel insur- Money this usually goes straight to ance is available at www. the owner rather than the lonelyplanet.com/travel- The Sri Lankan currency is worker. insurance. You can buy, the rupee (Rs), divided into ¨¨Restaurants and bars extend and claim online 100 cents; pricing in cents Up to 10% in cash to servers anytime – even if you’re is rare. Rupee coins come in beyond the ‘service charge’ already on the road. denominations of one, two, ¨¨Drivers 10% of total fee five and 10 rupees. Notes ¨¨Room cleaners Up to Internet Access come in denominations of 10, Rs 100 per day 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, ¨¨Bag carriers/porters Internet facilities are avail- 2000 and 5000 rupees. Rs 50 per bag able across Sri Lanka. In ¨¨Shoe minders at temples the smallest of towns, look ATMs Rs 20 around the bus stand. Ac- ¨¨Guides Varies greatly; cess costs Rs 100 to Rs 150 ATMs are easily found in agree to a fee in parks and per hour. towns and cities of any size. religious sites before you ATMs often issue Rs 5000 set out Wi-fi in guesthouses and notes. Try and break a few hotels is common in Co- as soon as possible as small Opening Hours lombo and touristed areas vendors may not accept of the coasts and inland large notes: you can usually Generally you’ll find the fol- areas. It’s often free, except do this inside the bank that lowing opening hours in Sri at some top-end places, operates the ATM. Lanka, although variations which can charge excessive exist. Outside of tourist areas rates. Connection speeds Cash much is closed on Sunday. are acceptable – but don’t Banks 8am to 3pm Monday to expect to stream a film. Also, Any bank or exchange Friday reception in rooms may not bureau will change major Bars Usually close by midnight, work. currencies in cash, including last call is often a sobering 11pm. US dollars, euros and British Government and private Legal Matters pounds. Change rupees back offices, post offices 8am to into hard currency at the 4.30pm Monday to Friday (but Sri Lanka’s legal system is a airport (before security, there they are not standardised) complex, almost arcane mix are no exchange counters Restaurants and cafes 7am to of British, Roman-Dutch and after) prior to leaving, as 9pm daily, later in areas popular national law. The legal sys- even nearby countries may with travellers tem tends to move slowly, not exchange Sri Lankan Shops 10am to 7pm Monday to and even a visit to a police currency. Friday, 10am to 3pm Saturday station to report a small Shops and services catering to theft can involve a whole lot Credit Cards visitors 9am to 8pm of time-consuming filling out of forms. The tourist police MasterCard and Visa are the in major towns and tourist most commonly accepted hotspots should be your credit cards. Cards are first point of contact in the generally accepted at some case of minor matters such midrange and most top-end as theft. hotels and restaurants.

309D i rec to ry A–Z P hotograph y PRACTICALITIES ¨¨Sri Lanka has several daily newspapers in English; they can be entertaining reads, whether intentionally so or not. Try a few to find your favourite. ¨¨Sri Lankan government-run stations dominate the radio and TV broadcast channels. Midrange and more expensive hotels usually have satellite TV with international networks. ¨¨Sri Lanka uses the international metric system, though some Sri Lankans still express distance in yards and miles. The term lakh is often used in place of ‘100,000’. ¨¨Smoking is not common in Sri Lanka. Smoking is outlawed on buses, trains and public places. Bars and restaurants are legally required to have separate smoking and nonsmoking sections, although these often merge. ¨¨Alcohol is not sold on poya (full moon) days; this includes hotel bars. Photography Sinhala and Tamil New Year arrivals area of Bandara- 14 April naike International Airport; ¨¨Most Sri Lankans love Labour Day 1 May compare prices as there getting their picture taken, Id-Ul-Fitr July, end of Ramadan are wide variations in rates. but it’s common courtesy Christmas Day 25 December Major providers include the to ask permission. A few following: business-oriented folk, Safe Travel Dialog (www.dialog.lk) such as the stilt fishermen Hutch (www.hutch.lk) at Koggala or the mahouts Sri Lanka is open for travel, Mobitel (www.mobitel.lk) at the Pinnewala Elephant though you can check the Orphanage, will ask for security situation in advance Phone Codes payment. at government websites. ¨¨It’s forbidden to film or Parts of the North may All regions have a three-digit photograph dams, airports, remain sensitive for some area code followed by a six- road blocks or anything time, so you may still en- or seven-digit number. Mo- associated with the military. counter a few road blocks bile numbers usually begin ¨¨Never pose beside or and security zones. with %07 or %08 and have in front of a statue of the up to 12 digits. Buddha (ie with your back Sri Lanka does not to it) as this is considered present any extraordinary Time extremely disrespectful. concerns about safe travel, ¨¨Flash photography can although women will want to Sri Lanka’s time, being 30 damage age-old frescoes read about certain concerns. minutes off the top of the and murals, so respect the hour used in much of the restrictions at places such Telephone world, bedevils many a trav- as Dambulla and Sigiriya. eller. Sri Lanka is 5½ hours Sri Lanka country %94 ahead of Greenwich Mean Public Holidays code %00 Time (the same as India), 4½ hours behind With four major religions, International Australian Eastern Standard Sri Lanka has a lot of public access code Time and 10½ hours ahead holidays; also, all poya days of American Eastern Stand- are public holidays and much Mobile Phones ard Time. is closed. New Year’s Day 1 January Mobile coverage across Sri Toilets Tamil Thai Pongal Day 14 Lanka is good in built-up January, Hindu harvest festival areas and cheap. You can All top-end and midrange Independence Day 4 February get a SIM card that has data accommodation will have Good Friday March/April and voice credit for as low as sit-down flush toilets. Only Rs 1500. budget places that don’t get a lot of tourists will have The main mobile com- squat toilets and lack toilet panies have booths in the

D i rec to ry A–Z T o u rist I n formatio n310 SHOPPING Sri Lanka has a wide variety of attractive handicrafts on sale. Markets in major towns are good places to start. Top-quality vanilla beans, for example, are sold very cheaply. Colombo offers a great and growing range of places to shop. Elsewhere, interesting shops and boutiques can be found in tourist areas, especially Galle. Laksala, a govern- ment-run store found in most cities and tourist towns, has items of reasonable quality. Bargaining Unless you are shopping at a fixed-price shop, you must bargain. Before you hit the open markets, peruse the prices in a fixed-price shop for an idea of what to pay. Generally, if someone quotes you a price, halve it. The seller will come down about halfway to your price, and the last price will be a little higher than half the original price. Try and keep a sense of perspective. Chances are you’re arguing over less than US$1. Batik Originally introduced by the Dutch in colonial times, the Indonesian art of batik is very popular in Sri Lanka. Some of the best and most original batik is made in the west-coast towns of Marawila, Mahawewa and Ambalangoda, and there are also several worthwhile outlets in Kandy. Gems You’ll find showrooms and private dealers all across Sri Lanka. In Ratnapura, the centre of the gem trade, it seems that everybody is a part-time gem dealer. Your challenge is the same here as elsewhere in the world: make sure what you’re being offered is not worth- less glass. The best way to avoid the myriad gem scams is to avoid buying any. Masks Sri Lankan masks are a popular collector’s item. They’re carved at a number of places, principally along the southwest coast. Look for shops from Galle and to the East. Spices Spices are integral to Sri Lanka’s cuisine and Ayurvedic traditions. A visit to a spice gar- den is an excellent way to discover the alternative uses of familiar spices. paper. Public toilets are Travellers with chaotic nature of Sri Lankan scarce (and are grim when Disabilities traffic is also a potentially they exist); use restaurants, dangerous challenge. A car hotels and attractions such Sri Lanka is a challenge for and driver is your best trans- as tea-plantation visitor travellers with disabilities, port option. If possible, travel centres. but the ever-obliging Sri with a strong, able-bodied Lankans are always ready to person. Tourist assist. If you have restricted Information mobility, you may find it diffi- Apart from some top-end cult, if not impossible, to get hotels, accommodation is The Colombo main office around on public transport. not geared for wheelchairs. of the Sri Lanka Tourist Buses and trains don’t have However, many places can Board (SLTB; Map p64; %243 facilities for wheelchairs. provide disabled travellers 7059; www.srilanka.travel; 80 Moving around towns and with rooms and bathrooms Galle Rd, Col 3; h9am-4.45pm cities can also be difficult that are accessible without Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) has for those in a wheelchair stairs. useful glossy brochures and and for the visually impaired staff can help with hotel because of the continual Visas bookings. roadworks and often-poor quality roads; don’t expect You can now obtain your many smooth footpaths. The tourist visa for Sri Lanka in advance via the web.

311 Obtaining a Visa focus for many volunteer wearing a fake wedding ring D i rec to ry A–Z V ol u n teeri n g efforts and organisations. and carrying a few pics of Before visiting Sri Lanka, do Many volunteer opportuni- your imaginary partner back the following to get a 30-day ties continue. home. visa: International Volunteer ¨¨Visit the Sri Lanka ETA HQ (IVHQ; www.volunteerhq. Women travelling alone (Electronic Travel Authorization; org) Organises a wide-range of may be hassled while walk- www.eta.gov.lk) website volunteer experiences, including ing around day and night, several days before arriving. teaching, medical care and or while exploring isolated ¨¨Follow the online temple renovation. places. Physical harassment application process and pay Millenium Elephant Foun- (grabbing and groping) can with a credit or debit card. dation (www.millennium occur anywhere. Single wom- ¨¨Once approved, print out elephantfoundation.com) en may be followed, so try the visa confirmation. Located near Pinnewala, the to be connected with larger You can still obtain visas at group cares for elephants rescued groups of people. There have Sri Lankan embassies abroad from abusive situations. Volun- also been cases of solo wom- and there is a counter at teers assist with animal care. en being attacked by guides Bandaranaike International Sewalanka Foundation at heritage sites; again, don’t Airport for people who arrive (www.sewalanka.org) Uses go alone. without a visa, although you’ll short-term volunteers with have to wait with the other business development and However, travelling in Sri visa-less masses and pay a agricultural expertise. Lanka is not one long hassle. small penalty. Volunteer Sri Lanka (www. Unpleasant incidents are the volunteersrilanka.net) Has exception, not the rule. But Visa Fees short-term volunteer positions, remember there are many especially for teachers. social environments that are The visa fees are as follows: almost exclusively male in ¨¨Transit visas good for 48 Women Travellers character – local bars, for hours are free example. ¨¨Standard 30-day tourist Women travelling alone may visas cost US$30 experience uncomfortable Stock up on tampons as levels of male attention. they can be very hard to find. Visa Extensions Outside of Colombo, it is a good idea to cover your legs Bus & Train Travel You can renew a 30-day and shoulders, though you’ll tourist visa twice, for 30 days be stared at no matter what Women travelling solo will each time. Contact the De- you wear. Tight tops are a find buses and trains trying partment of Immigration bad idea. And away from the at times. In Colombo ordi- and Emigration (%011-237 tourist beaches of the South nary buses are so packed 5972; www.immigration.gov. and West, consider swim- that sometimes it’s impos- lk). Extensions are not hard ming in a T-shirt and shorts. sible to avoid bodily contact to get but require jumping with other passengers. Stray through some bureaucratic In Colombo and popular hands on crowded buses hoops and downloading tourist areas you can relax and trains happen; this is some forms. the dress code. ‘Are you something that local women married?’ could be the snap- are also subjected to. Change Volunteering py conversation starter you your seat or sit with a local hear most often, so consider woman. If you gesture to a Following the tsunami in local woman to sit next to 2004, Sri Lanka became a you, she’ll understand. Women travelling solo should avoid night trains.

31 2 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Transport GETTING THERE Katunayake, 30km north of SriLankan Airlines (www. & AWAY Colombo. There are 24-hour srilankan.aero) moneychanging facilities in Thai Airways (www.thaiair Air service to Sri Lanka is the arrivals and departures ways.com) increasing right along with halls as well as ATMs, mobile Turkish Airlines (www. tourism numbers. phone dealers and more. turkishairlines.com) Flights, tours and rail tick- Arriving is fairly hassle- Tickets ets can be booked online at free as touts are mostly lonelyplanet.com/bookings. kept away. Transit passen- ASIA gers and those checking in Sri Lanka is well served by Entering the early should note, however, major Asian carriers, includ- Country that the terminals remain ing Malaysian budget favour- quite spartan in terms of ite Air Asia. Service from Immigration at Bandaranai- amenities. India is competitive between ke International Airport is several carriers. Many visitors straightforward. Major airlines serving Sri combine a visit to Sri Lanka Lanka include the following: with the Maldives. SriLankan Passport Air Asia (www.airasia.com) Airlines and Emirates fly be- British Airways (www. tween Colombo and Malé. You must have your passport britishairways.com) with you at all times in Sri Cathay Pacific (www. AUSTRALIA & NEW Lanka. Before leaving home, cathaypacific.com) ZEALAND check that it will be valid for Emirates (www.emirates.com) Connections are on Asian at least six months after you Etihad (www.etihadairways. carriers such as Singapore plan to return home. com) Airlines and Thai Airways. Indian Airlines (www. Using Emirates requires Air indian-airlines.nic.in) major backtracking. Malaysia Airlines (www. Airports & Airlines malaysia-airlines.com) EUROPE Qatar Airways (www. SriLankan Airlines links Sri Lanka’s primary interna- qatarairways.com) Colombo nonstop with tional airport is Bandaranai- Singapore Airlines (www. major European airports. ke International Airport singaporeair.com) Connecting through on (CMB; www.airport.lk) at a carrier such as British Airways, Emirates, Etihad MATTALA RAJAPAKSA INTERNATIONAL Airways, Qatar Airways and AIRPORT Turkish Airlines is common. Opened in 2013, Mattala Rajapaksa International NORTH AMERICA Airport is 15km north of Hambantota near the south You’re literally going halfway coast. Although it can handle the largest jets, it has yet to around the world from Can- attract many flights – but it has attracted criticism. ada and the USA; from the west coast connect through Asia, from the east coast connect through the Middle East or India.

313 CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Transport Sea Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with con- tributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel. Sea Air ¨¨Bikes available for day use typically are not suitable for Plans to resume ferry ser- Options for flying within Sri long-distance riding. Bike- vices between Mannar in Lanka are limited. Connect- rental shops offering quality northwest Sri Lanka and ing air service at Bandaranai- long-distance machines are India have been rumoured ke International Airport rare. Consider bringing your for many years, but have yet is provided by Cinnamon bike from home if you plan on to materialise. A service link- Air (%011-247 5475; www. serious cycle touring. ing Colombo and Tuticorin cinnamonair.com), which (Tamil Nadu) in India lasted caters to well-heeled trav- Bike Tours only a few months. ellers. Destinations include Batticaloa, Dickwella, Sigiriya Tour and outfitting compa- GETTING and Trincomalee. Service is nies organise cycling tours of AROUND on small planes, some using Sri Lanka and may also help floats. you get organised for inde- Domestic flights in Sri Lanka pendent travel. are quite limited, distances Very limited domestic Action Lanka (www.action are not vast and new ex- service operates at times lanka.com) pressways are shrinking from Ratmalana Air Force Eco Team (www.srilankaeco travel times. Base, 15km south of Fort. tourism.com) Flights to Jaffna are operated SpiceRoads Cycling Tours Travelling on public by Fits Air (%011-255 5156; (www.spiceroads.com) transport is mostly a choice www.fitsair.com). between buses and trains: Long-Distance both are cheap. Trains can Bicycle be crowded, but it’s nothing ¨¨Keen long-distance compared with the seem- Cycling around historic areas cyclists will enjoy Sri Lanka, ingly endless numbers of such as Anuradhapura and apart from the steeper passengers that squash into Sigiriya are the best and areas of the Hill Country ordinary buses. Even stand- most enjoyable ways to see and the busy roads exiting ing on a train is better than these important sites. More Colombo. When heading out standing on a bus. and more hotels and guest- of Colombo in any direction, houses have bicycles guests take a train to the edge of the On the main roads from can hire (rent). city before you start cycling. Colombo to Kandy, Negom- ¨¨Start early in the day to bo and Galle, buses cover Hire avoid the heat, and pack around 40km to 50km per water and sunscreen. hour. On highways across ¨¨Simple, cheap mountain Your daily distances will the plains, it can be 60km bikes make up much of be limited by the roads; be or 70km an hour. In the Hill the rentals you’ll find in prepared for lots of prudent Country, it can slow to just guesthouses and hotels. ‘eyes down’ cycling as 20km an hour. Rates average about Rs 500 you negotiate a flurry of per day. obstacles from potholes to All public transport gets ¨¨If your accommodation chickens. Remember, too, crowded around poya (full doesn’t hire bikes, they that speeding buses, trucks moon) holidays and their can usually hook you up and cars use all parts of the nearest weekends, so try to with someone who does. roadway and shoulder, so be avoid travelling then. Many places rent bikes to very cautious and wear very nonguests. visible clothing.

Transport Bus314 has sparked the introduction of Costs ¨¨If you bring your own express services in fully modern bicycle, also pack a supply of air-con coaches between In most cases, private bus spare tyres and tubes. These Colombo’s suburbs and Galle. companies run services suffer from the poor road parallel to CTB services. surfaces, and replacement General Tips Intercity expresses charge parts can be hard to obtain. about twice as much as CTB The normal bicycle tyre size Bus travel in Sri Lanka can be buses, but are more than in Sri Lanka is 28in by 1.5in. interesting and entertaining. twice as comfortable and Some imported 27in tyres for Most locals speak at least usually faster. Fares for CTB 10-speed bikes are available, some English, so you may buses and ordinary private but only in Colombo. have some enjoyable interac- buses are very cheap. ¨¨Keep an eye on your tions. Vendors board to sell bicycle at all times and use a snacks, books and gifts on Car & Motorcycle good lock. long-distance routes. ¨¨When taking a bicycle on ¨¨Self-drive car hire is a train, forms must be filled Important considerations possible in Sri Lanka, though out, so deliver the bicycle for bus travel: it is far more common to at least half an hour before ¨¨Major routes will have hire a car and driver. If you’re departure. At Colombo Fort service several times an hour on a relatively short visit to train station you may want during daylight hours. Sri Lanka on a midrange to allow up to two hours. It ¨¨Finding the right bus at budget, the costs of hiring a costs about twice the 2nd- the chaotic bus stations of car and driver can be quite class fare to take a bicycle on major cities and towns can reasonable. a train. be challenging, although ¨¨When planning your almost all buses now have itinerary, you can count on Purchase part of their destination sign covering about 35km/h in in English. the Hill Country and 55km/h Expect to pay US$125 to ¨¨There is usually no central in most of the rest of the US$500 for a new bike, de- ticket office; you must locate country. pending on the quality. Most the right parking area and ¨¨Motorcycling is an are made in India or China. buy your bus ticket either alternative for intrepid There are bike shops (rentals from a small booth or on travellers. Distances not available) along Dam St board the bus. are relatively short and in the Pettah market area of ¨¨You may be able to reserve some of the roads are a Colombo. Also try: a seat on a bus in advance; motorcyclist’s delight; the Lumala (www.lumala.lk) check at the station. trick is to stay off the main ¨¨‘Semi-comfortable’ (or highways. The quieter Bus ‘semi-luxe’) buses are run by Hill Country roads offer private companies and have some glorious views, and Bus routes cover about 80% larger seats and window secondary roads along the of the nation’s 90,000km of curtains compared to CTB coast and the plains are roads. There are two kinds of buses, but lack the air-con of reasonably quick. But you bus in Sri Lanka: the best intercity buses. will have to make inquiries as Central Transport Board (CTB) ¨¨Most people at bus motorcycle and motorbike buses These are the default stations and on buses will rental is nowhere near as buses and usually lack air-con; help you with your questions. commonplace as it is in they ply most long-distance and ¨¨Luggage space is limited or much of the rest of Asia. local routes. You’ll also see buses non-existent; you may have ¨¨New expressways are with a Sri Lanka Transport Board to buy a ticket for your bag. revolutionising how people (SLTB) logo. ¨¨The first two seats on CTB get around Sri Lanka. Private buses Independent buses are reserved for clergy ¨¨Throughout Sri Lanka, bus companies have vehicles (Buddhist monks). Mw is an abbreviation for ranging from late-model ¨¨To guarantee a seat, board Mawatha, meaning ‘Avenue’. Japanese coaches used on the bus at the beginning of its intercity-express runs to ancient journey. Driving Licence minibuses on short runs between ¨¨When you arrive at your towns and villages. Private air- destination, confirm the An International Driving con intercity buses cover some departure details for the next Permit (IDP) can be used major routes. For long-distance stage of your journey. for driving in Sri Lanka; it’s travel they are more comfort- pricey, valid for three months able and faster than other bus to one year and is sold by services. Note that completion auto clubs in your home of the Southern Expressway country. Note that many

315 travellers never purchase an to dissuade travellers from (%258 3133; www.rentalcar Tr a nsp o rt C a r & M o t o r cycl e IDP and have no problems. visiting temples and other srilanka.com; Colombo) offers sights where there are no self-drive car hire. You’ll find Hiring a Car & Driver commissions. other local firms as well ¨¨Unless you speak as very small operations A car and a driver guarantee absolutely no English or in tourist towns. You can maximum flexibility in your Sinhala, a guide in addition to usually get a car for about travels and while the driver the driver is unnecessary. US$30 per day with 100km deals with the chaotic roads, of included kilometres. But you can look out the window Drivers make a fair part of it is still uncommon to see and – try to – relax. their income from commis- visitors driving themselves in sions. Most hotels and guest- Sri Lanka. You can find taxi drivers houses pay drivers a flat fee who will happily become your or a percentage, although Road Conditions chauffeur for a day or more others refuse to. This can in all the main tourist cen- lead to disputes between you You may see a number of tres. Guesthouses and hotels and the driver over where accidents; driving requires can connect you with a you’re staying the night, as constant attention to the driver, which may be the best the driver will wish to steer road. Country roads are often method. Travel agencies also you literally to where the narrow and potholed, with offer various car and driver money is. Some hotels have constant pedestrian, bicycle schemes, although these can appalling accommodation and animal traffic to navi- cost considerably more. for drivers; the smarter ho- gate. Note, however, that Sri tels and guesthouses know Lanka’s massive road-build- COSTS that keeping drivers happy ing program is improving Various formulas exist for is good for their business, roads across the nation. setting costs, such as rates and provide decent food and per kilometre plus a lunch lodgings. Punctures are a part of life and dinner allowance and here, so every village has a separate fuel payments. The Recommended drivers repair expert. simplest way is to agree on a include the following (there flat fee with no extras. Expect are many more; the Lonely It’s dangerously accept- to pay Rs 7000 to 9000 per Planet Thorn Tree forum is a able for a bus, car or truck day (US$60 is a good aver- good source of driver recom- to overtake in the face of age), excluding fuel, or more mendations): oncoming smaller road us- for a newer air-con vehicle. Milroy Fernando (%077 727 ers. Three-wheelers, cyclists, Other considerations: 2780; milroy@ancientlanka. or smaller cars and vans ¨¨Most drivers will expect a com) simply have to move over or tip of about 10%. risk getting hit. To announce ¨¨Meet the driver first as you Dimuthu Priyadarshana they are overtaking, or want may sense bad chemistry. (%077 630 2070; dimuthu81@ to overtake, drivers sound a ¨¨Consider hiring a driver for hotmail.com) shrill melody on their horns. only two or three days at first Nilam Sahabdeen (%081- If you’re walking or cycling to see if you fit. 238 4981; http://srilankatour. along any kind of main road, ¨¨You are the boss. It’s great wordpress.com/) be very alert. to get recommendations from a driver but don’t be Self-Drive Hire Road Rules bullied. Drivers are known Colombo-based company ¨¨Speed limit 56km/h in Shineway Rent A Car towns, 72km/h in rural areas and 100km on the new expressways. SRI LANKA’S NEW HIGHWAYS Various new expressways are opening over the next few years. Most will be toll roads, with relatively cheap tolls. Besides new expressways in and around Colombo (see p for more information), other new routes include: Colombo–Kandy Expressway Approved in 2012, this road is expected to reduce travel time to close to an hour. There is no set opening date. Southern Expressway The first new expressway completed. It is 161km long and runs from Colombo’s southern suburb of Kottawa, near Maharagama, to Matara via an exit near Galle. Until linking roads are complete, it can take as long to get from Fort to the expressway entrance as it does from there to Galle – or even longer. Plans call for the road to eventually reach Hambantota.

Tr a nsp o rt H itching316 kilometre, but this can prove rock climbing, trekking, ¨¨Driving is on the left-hand elusive depending on your mountain biking and white- side of the road, as in the UK negotiating skills. Note that water rafting. and Australia. three-wheelers with meters Sri Lanka In Style (www. are becoming popular in srilankainstyle.com) Splurge- Hitching Colombo. worthy and unique accommo- dation. Hitching is never entirely safe Three-wheelers and taxis World Expeditions (www. in any country in the world, waiting outside hotels and worldexpeditions.com) Wildlife, and we don’t recommend tourist sights expect higher- culture and adventure tours, it. In any case, Sri Lanka’s than-usual fares. Walk a few often guided by experts. cheap fares make it an un- hundred metres to get a necessary option. better deal. Local Transport Tours Train Many Sri Lankan towns are Sri Lanka has many inbound Sri Lanka’s railways are a small enough to walk around. travel companies providing great way to cross the coun- In larger towns you can tours. Many of the tours are try. Although they are slow, get around by bus, taxi or focused on a particular inter- there are few overnight or three-wheeler. est or activity. all-day ordeals to contend Action Lanka (%011-279 with. A train ride is almost Bus 1584; www.actionlanka.com; always more relaxed than 366/3, Rendapola Horaga- a bus ride. Costs are in line Local buses go to most plac- hakanda Lane, Talangama, with buses: even 1st class es, including villages outside Koswatta) Arranges outdoor doesn’t exceed Rs 1000. main towns, for fares from Rs activities including white-water 10 to 50. rafting, kayaking, diving, moun- There are three main lines: tain biking and walks. South from Colombo A scenic Taxi Baurs (www.baurs.com) delight. Recently renovated, runs Wildlife-watching tours. past Aluthgama and Hikkaduwa Sri Lankan taxis are common Boutique Sri Lanka (www. to Galle and Matara. in all sizable towns, and boutiquesrilanka.com) Special- East from Colombo To the Hill even some villages. Only ises in interesting accommo- Country, through Kandy, Nanu some are metered (mostly dation, Ayurvedic retreats and Oya (for Nuwara Eliya) and Ella in Colombo), but over longer luxury resorts, guesthouses and to Badulla. A beautiful route, the distances their prices are small heritage hotels. portion from Haputale to Ella is comparable to those of Eco Team Sri Lanka (www. one of the world’s most scenic three-wheelers, and they srilankaecotourism.com) Wide train rides. provide more comfort and range of wilderness-based active North from Colombo Through security. Radio taxis are adventures, including white- Anuradhapura to Mannar and available in Kandy and water rafting, hiking and wildlife also to Jaffna on rebuilt and Colombo. You can count safaris. renovated tracks. One branch on most taxi rides costing reaches Trincomalee on the between Rs 60 and 100 per Hoi An Motorbike east coast, while another serves kilometre. Adventures (www.motor Polonnaruwa and Batticaloa. biketours-hoian.com; 9-day Other Lines The Puttalam line Three-wheeler tours from US$2000) Excellent runs along the coast north guided motorbike tours along from Colombo, although rail Three-wheelers, known scenic back roads in some of the buses run between Chilaw and in other parts of Asia as less-visited parts of the island, Puttalam. The Kelani Valley line tuk-tuks, bajajs or autorick- all featuring safari excursions. winds 60km from Colombo to shaws, are literally waiting on Avissawella. every corner. Use your best Jetwing Eco Holidays bargaining skills and agree (%011-238 1201; www. General Tips on the fare before you get in. jetwingeco.com) Wildlife and Some keen drivers will offer birdwatching tours. ¨¨Trains are often late. to take you around Mars Red Dot Tours (www. For long-distance trains, and back, and we’ve heard reddottours.com) Everything Sri Lankans sometimes of travellers who have gone from golf and cricket to wildlife measure the lateness in from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya and wellness. periods of the day: quarter in a three-wheeler, which of a day late, half a day late would be a slow five hours Sri Lanka Expeditions and so on. or so. (www.srilankaexpeditions.com) ¨¨Most stations have helpful Activity-based tours, including information windows. As a rule of thumb, a three-wheeler should cost no more than Rs 150 per

Mathara, fares average 317 US$12). Although the 1st- GETTING AROUND OPTIONS class observation cars are more charming – and Your options for getting around Sri Lanka are many. cheaper – these private cars Broadly, the options and considerations are as follows: offer air-con, snacks and may have seats available when Bus PROS CONS regular trains are already Tr a nsp o rt T r a in fully booked. Car & cheap, frequent, go very crowded, uncomfortable, Driver everywhere no room for luggage, slow Private car operators: Train Expo Rail (%011-522 5050; comfortable, flexible, more expensive than buses www.exporail.lk) efficient and trains Rajadhani Express (%071- 453 6840; www.rajadhani.lk) tickets in all classes not frequent, slow, 2nd and are cheap, some 3rd class crowded and uncom- Reservations routes beautiful, 1st fortable, limited destinations class comfortable ¨¨You can reserve places in 1st class and in 2nd class on ¨¨The Sri Lankan Railways 2nd class Seats have padding many intercity expresses. website (www.railway.gov.lk) and there are fans. On some ¨¨Always make a booking has a useful trip planner. trains (but not to Galle) these for the 1st-class observation seats can be reserved in ad- saloons, which are very Classes vance. popular. 3rd class Seats have little ¨¨Reservations can be made There are three classes on padding and there are no reser- at train stations up to 10 days Sri Lankan trains: vations. The cars accommodate before departure. You can 1st class Comes in three as many as can squeeze in and book a return ticket up to 14 varieties: coaches, sleeping conditions can be grim. days before departure. berths and observation saloons ¨¨If travelling more than (with large windows). The latter In addition private compa- 80km, you can break your are used on the line east from nies have begun running journey at any intermediate Colombo and are the preferred comfortable train cars, which station for 24 hours without means of travelling this scenic are attached to regular trains penalty. You’ll need to make line. Some have large rear-facing (routes include Colombo fresh reservations for seats windows and vintage interiors. to Badulla, Elle, Kandy and on the next leg.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd WANT MORE? For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s Sinhala Phrasebook and India Phrasebook. You’ll find them at shop.lonelyplanet. com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. Language Sinhala and Tamil are national languages in Excuse me. samah venna Sri Lanka, with English commonly described Sorry. kana gaatui as a lingua franca. It’s easy to get by with Do you speak oyaa in-ghirisih kata English, and the Sri Lankan variety has its English? karenawa da? own unique characteristics – ‘You are having What’s your name? oyaaghe nama mokka’da? a problem, isn’t it, no?’ is one example. How- My name is ... maaghe nama ... ever, while English may be widely spoken in the main centres, off the beaten track its Accommodation spread thins. In any case, even a few words of Sinhala or Tamil will go a long way. Do you have any kaamara thiyanawada? rooms available? SINHALA How much is it per ek ra-yakata kiyada Sinhala is officially written using a cursive night? script. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you shouldn’t How much is it per ek kenek-kuta kiyada have problems being understood. When con- person? sonants are doubled they are pronounced very distinctly, almost as separate sounds. Is breakfast included? udeh keh-emath ekkada? The symbols t and d are pronounced less forcefully than in English, th as in ‘thin’, dh as for one night ek rayak pamanai the ‘th’ in ‘that’, g as in ‘go’, and r is more like a flap of the tongue against the roof of the for two nights raya dekak pamanai mouth – it’s not pronounced as an American ‘r’. As for the vowels, a is pronounced as the for one person ek-kenek pamanai ‘u’ in ‘cup’, aa as the ‘a’ in ‘father’, ai as in ‘aisle’, au as the ‘ow’ in ‘how’, e as in ‘met’, i for two people den-nek pamanai as in ‘bit’, o as in ‘hot’, and u as in ‘put’. campsite kamping ground eka guesthouse gesthaus eka hotel hotel eka Basics youth hostel yut-hostel eka Hello. aayu-bowan Eating & Drinking Goodbye. aayu-bowan Yes. owu Can we see the menoo eka balanna No. naha menu? puluvandha? Please. karuna kara Thank you. istuh-tee What’s the local mehe visheshayen hadhana speciality? dhe monavaadha?

319 I’d like rice and curry, bahth denna Emergencies please. I’m a vegetarian. mama elavalu vitharai Help! aaney!/aaeeyoh!/ammoh! kanne Call a doctor! dostara gen-nanna! I’m allergic to mata (ratakaju) (peanuts). apathyayi Call the police! polisiyata kiyanna! No ice in my drink, karunaakarala maghe Go away! methanin yanna! Language SINHALA please. beema ekata ais dhamanna epaa I’m lost. maa-meh nativelaa That was delicious! eka harima rasai! Please bring a/the… … karunaakarala gennah Shopping & Services bill bila fork gaarappuvak What time does it ehika kiyatada glass of water vathura veedhuruvak open/close? arinneh/vahanneh? knife pihiyak plate pingaanak How much is it? ehekka keeyada? big loku medicine behe-yat small podi/punchi bowl vendhuwa bank bankuwa coffee koh-pi chemist/pharmacy faahmisiya fruit palathuru ... embassy ... embasiya glass co-ppuwa market maakat eka milk kiri my hotel mang inna hotalaya salt lunu newsagency pattara ejensiya spoon han-duh post office tepal kantohruwa sugar seeni public telephone podu dura katanayak tea thay tourist office sanchaaraka toraturu water vathura karyaalayak NUMBERS – SINHALA Time & Dates What time is it? velaave keeyada? 0 binduwa morning udai 1 eka 2 deka afternoon havasa 3 thuna 4 hathara day davasa 5 paha 6 haya night raah 7 hatha 8 atta week sumaanayak 9 navaya 10 dahaya month maasayak 100 seeya 200 deh seeya year avuurudeh 1000 daaha 2000 deh daaha yesterday ee-yeh 100,000 lakshaya 1,000,000 daseh lakshaya today ada (uther) 10,000,000 kotiya tomorrow heta Monday sandu-da Tuesday angaharuwaa-da Wednesday badaa-da Thursday braha-spetin-da Friday sikuraa-da Saturday senasuraa-da Sunday iri-da

320 SIGNS – SINHALA TAMIL Language TAMIL we;`,ajsu Entrance The vocabulary of Sri Lankan Tamil is much msgjSu Exit the same as that of South India – the written jsjD;j we;' Open form is identical, using the traditional cursive jid we;' Closed script – but there are marked differences in f;dr;`re oekajqu Information pronunciation between speakers from the ;ykuz fj' Prohibited two regions. In this section we’ve used the fmd,sia ia:dkh Police Station same pronunciation guides as for Sinhala. ldur we;' Rooms Available ldur ke;' No Vacancy Basics jeisls< Toilets mqreI Men Hello. vanakkam ia;s] Women Goodbye. poytu varukirehn Yes. aam No. il-lay Please. tayavu saydhu Thank you. nandri Excuse me. mannikavum Transport & Directions Sorry. mannikavum When does the next meelanga ... pitaht Do you speak English? nin-gal aangilam venne/paminenne? paysu-virhalaa? ... leave/arrive? What’s your name? ungal peyr en-na? boat bohtuwa My name is ... en peyr ... bus (city) bus eka bus (intercity) bus eka nagaraantara Accommodation train koh-chiya Do you have any ingu room kideikkumaa? I want to get off. mama methana bahinawa rooms available? I’d like a one-way mata tani gaman tikat ticket. ekak ganna ohna How much is it per oru iravukku/aalukku I’d like a return mata yaam-eem tikat ekak night/person? evvalavur? ticket. ganna ohna Is breakfast included? kaalei unavum sehrtha? for one/two nights oru/irandu iravukku for one/two people oruvarukku/iruvarukku 1st class palamu veni paantiya SIGNS – TAMIL Entrance 2nd class deveni paantiya Exit 3rd class tunveni paantiya top cs;Ns Open bus stop bus nevathuma top ntspNa Closed ferry terminal totu pala jpwe;Js;sJ Information timetable kaala satahana milf;fg;gl;Ls;sJ Prohibited train station dumriya pala jfty; Police mDkjp ,y;iy Station I’d like to hire a ... mata ... ekak bad-dhata fhty; epiyak; Rooms ganna ohna Available No Vacancy bicycle baisikeleya Toilets miwfs; cz;L Men car kar (eka) Women Where is a/the ...? ... koheda? Go straight ahead. kelinma issarahata yaanna fhyp ,y;iy Turn left. wamata harenna kyry$lk; Turn right. dakunata harenna Mz; near lan-ghai ngz far durai

321 campsite mukhaamidum idahm NUMBERS – TAMIL guesthouse virun-dhinar vidhudheh hotel hotehl 0 saifer youth hostel ilainar vidhudheh 1 ondru 2 iranduh Eating & Drinking 3 muundruh Language TAMIL 4 naan-guh Can we see the menu? unavu pattiyalai 5 ainduh paarppomaa? 6 aaruh 7 ealluh What’s the local ingu kidaikkak koodiya 8 ettu speciality? visheida unavu enna? 9 onbaduh 10 pat-tuh I’d like rice and curry, sorum kariyum tharungal 100 nooruh please. 1000 aayirem 2000 irandaayirem I’m a vegetarian. naan shaiva unavu 100,000 oru latcham shaappidupavan 1,000,000 pattuh lat-chem 10,000,000 kohdee I’m allergic to (nilak kadalai) enakku (peanuts). alejee No ice in my drink, enadu paanaththil ais please. poda v endaam That was delicious! adhu nalla rushi! Please bring a/the… … konda varungal How much is it? adhu evvalavu? bill bill big periyeh fork mul karandi medicine marunduh glass of water thanni oru glass small siriyeh knife kaththi bank vanghee plate oru plate chemist/pharmacy marunduh kadhai ... embassy ... tudharalayem bowl kooppai market maarket coffee kahpee my hotel enadu hotehl fruit paadham newsagency niyuz paper vitku-midam glass glass post office tafaal nilayem milk paal public telephone podhu tolai-pessee salt uppu tourist office toorist nilayem spoon karandi sugar seeree tea te-neer/plan-tea water than-neer Time & Dates Emergencies What time is it? mani eth-tanai? Help! udavi! morning kaalai Call a doctor! daktarai kuppidunga! afternoon pit-pahel Call the police! polisai kuppidunga! day pahel Go away! pohn-goh!/poi-vidu! night iravu I’m lost. naan vali tavari-vittehn week vaarem month maadhem year varudem Shopping & Services yesterday neh-truh What time does it et-thana manikka today indru open/close? tirakhum/mudhum? tomorrow naalay

Language SRI LANKAN ENGLISH322 tin-gal 1st class mudalahaam vahuppu Monday sevvaay 2nd class irandaam vahuppu Tuesday budahn bus/trolley stop baas nilayem Wednesday viyaalin luggage lockers porul vaikku-midam Thursday vellee timetable haala attavanay Friday san-nee train station rayill nilayem Saturday naayiru Sunday Transport & Directions I’d like to hire a ... enakku ... vaadakhaikku vaynum When does the next eththanai manikku bicycle sai-kul ... leave/arrive? aduththa ... sellum/varum? car car boat padakhu adhu en-ghe irukkaradhu? ... en-ghe? bus (city) baas naharam/ul-loor Where is it? neraha sellavum Where is a/the ...? valadhur pakkam bus (intercity) baas veliyoor Go straight ahead. tirumbavum Turn left. itadhu pakkam train rayill thirumbavum Turn right. aruhil I want to get off. naan iranga vendum tu-rahm near I’d like a one-way enakku oru vahly tikket far ticket. veynum I’d like a return enakku iru vahlay tikket ticket. veynum SRI LANKAN ENGLISH Greetings & Conversation normal bus – not a private bus Go and come. – farewell greeting, similar outstation – place beyond a person’s to ‘See you later’ (not taken literally) home area How? – How are you? petrol shed – petrol/gas station Nothing to do. – Can’t do anything. pick-up – 4WD utility vehicle What to do? – What can be done about seaside/landside – indicates locations, it? (more of a rhetorical question) usually in relation to Galle Rd What country? – Where are you from? two-wheeler – motorcycle paining – hurting up and down – return trip to gift – to give a gift up country/Hill Country – Kandy and beyond, tea plantation areas People vehicle – car baby/bubba – term used for any child up to about adolescence Food batchmate – university classmate bite – snack, usually with alcoholic drinks peon – office helper boutique – a little, hole-in-the-wall shop, uncle/auntie – term of respect for elder usually selling small, inexpensive items cool spot – traditional, small shop that Getting Around sells cool drinks and snacks backside – part of the building away hotel – a small, cheap restaurant that from the street doesn’t offer accommodation bajaj – three-wheeler lunch packet/rice packet – rice/curry bus halt – bus stop meal wrapped in plastic and newspaper coloured lights – traffic lights and taken to office or school for lunch down south – the areas south of short eats – snack food Colombo, especially coastal areas dropping – being dropped off at a place Money by a car buck – rupee get down – to alight (from bus/train/ last price – final price when bargaining three-wheeler) purse – wallet

323 GLOSSARY ambalama – wayside shelter CTB – Central Transport rice-flour designs that adorn Language GLOSSARY for pilgrims Board, the state bus network buildings in Tamil areas Aurudu – Sinhalese and dagoba – Buddhist monu- kovil – Hindu temple ded- Tamil New Year, celebrated ment composed of a solid icated to the worship of on 14 April hemisphere containing relics Shiva Avalokitesvara – the of the Buddha or a Buddhist kulam – Tamil word for tank bodhisattva of compassion saint; a stupa Ayurveda – traditional devale – complex designed lakh – 100,000; unit of system of medicine that for worshipping a Hindu or measurement in Sri Lanka uses herbs and oils to heal Sri Lankan deity and India and rejuvenate dharma – the word used by lingam – phallic symbol; both Hindus and Buddhists symbol of Shiva bailas – folk tunes based to refer to their respective LTTE – Liberation Tigers of on Portuguese, African and moral codes of behaviour Tamil Eelam, also known as local music styles the Tamil Tigers; separatist baobab – water-storing tree eelam – Tamil word for group fighting for an inde- (Adansonia digitata), prob- precious land pendent Tamil Eelam in the ably introduced to Mannar North and the East Island and the Vanni in gala – rock northern Sri Lanka by Arab ganga – river Maha – northeast monsoon traders gedige – hollow temple with season bodhi tree – large spreading thick walls and a corbelled Mahaweli Ganga – Sri Lan- tree (Ficus religiosa); the roof ka’s longest river, starting tree under which the Bud- gopuram – gateway tower near Adam’s Peak and dha sat when he attained guardstones – carved stones reaching the sea near Trin- enlightenment, and the that flank doorways or comalee many descendants grown entrances to temples Mahayana – later form of from cuttings of this tree Buddhism prevalent in bodhisattva – divine being Hanuman – the monkey king Korea, Japan and China; who, although capable of from the Ramayana literally means ‘greater attaining nirvana, chooses to vehicle’ reside on the human plane Jataka tales – stories of the Mahinda – son of the Indian to help ordinary people previous lives of the Buddha Buddhist emperor Ashoka, attain salvation juggernaut – decorated tem- credited with introducing Brahmi – early Indian script ple cart dragged through the Buddhism to Sri Lanka used from the 5th century BC streets during Hindu festivals mahout – elephant master bund – built-up bank or dyke (sometimes called a ‘car’) Maitreya – future Buddha surrounding a tank makara – mythical beast Burgher – Sri Lankan kachcheri – administrative combining a lion, a pig and Eurasian, generally office an elephant, often carved descended from Por- kadé – Sinhalese name for into temple staircases tuguese-Sinhalese or a streetside hut (also called makara torana – ornamental Dutch-Sinhalese intermar- boutiques); called unavakam archway riage by Tamils mandapaya – a raised plat- Karava – fisherfolk of Indian form with decorative pillars cadjan – coconut fronds descent masala – mix (often spices) woven into mats and used karma – Hindu-Buddhist moonstone – semiprecious as building material principle of retributive stone; also a carved ‘door- Ceylon – British-colonial justice for past deeds step’ at temple entrances name for Sri Lanka Kataragama – see Murugan mudra – symbolic hand posi- chetiya – Buddhist shrine kiri bath – dessert of rice tion of a Buddha image Chola – powerful ancient cooked in coconut milk Murugan – Hindu god of war; South Indian kingdom that kolam – meaning costume also known as Skanda and invaded Sri Lanka on several or guise, it refers to masked Kataragama occasions dance-drama; also the

324 Language GLOSSARY naga – snake; also applies to representing the Buddhist many of the tanks in Sri snake deities and spirits concept of the cosmos Lanka are very large and nirvana – ultimate aim of Ruhunu – ancient south- ancient Buddhists, final release from ern centre of Sinhalese Theravada – orthodox form the cycle of existence power near Tissamaha- of Buddhism practised in Sri nuwara – city rama that survived even Lanka and Southeast Asia, when Anuradhapura and which is characterised by its ola – leaves of the talipot Polonnaruwa fell to Indian adherence to the Pali canon palm; used in manuscripts invaders and traditional books unavakam – Tamil name oruva – outrigger canoe samudra – large tank or for a streetside hut; called oya – stream or small river inland sea kadé or boutiques by the Sangamitta – sister of Sinhalese Pali – the language in which Mahinda; she brought the the Buddhist scriptures sacred bodhi tree sapling vahalkada – solid panel of were originally recorded from Bodhgaya in India sculpture palmyra – tall palm tree sangha – the community of vatadage – circular relic found in the dry northern Buddhist monks and nuns; house consisting of a small region in Sri Lanka, an influential central dagoba flanked by perahera – procession, usu- group divided into several Buddha images and encir- ally with dancers, drummers nikayas (orders) cled by columns and elephants Sanskrit – ancient Indian Veddahs – original inhabit- pirivena – centre of learning language, the oldest known ants of Sri Lanka prior to the attached to monastery member of the family of arrival of the Sinhalese from poya – full-moon day; always Indo-European languages India; also called the Wanni- a holiday sari – traditional garment yala-aetto puja – ‘respect’, offering or worn by women vel – trident; the god prayers Sinhala – language of the Murugan is often depicted Sinhalese people carrying a vel rajakariya – ‘workers for the Sinhalese – majority vihara, viharaya – Buddhist king’, the tradition of feudal population of Sri Lanka; complex, including a shrine service principally Sinhala-speaking containing a statue of the Ramayana – ancient story Buddhists Buddha, a congregational of Rama and Sita and their Skanda – see Murugan hall and a monks’ house conflict with Rawana stupa – see dagoba Rawana – ‘demon king of Wanniyala-aetto – see Lanka’ who abducts Rama’s Tamils – a people of South Veddahs beautiful wife Sita in the Indian origin, comprising the wewa – see tank Hindu epic the Ramayana largest minority population relic chamber – chamber in in Sri Lanka; principally Yala – southwest monsoon a dagoba housing a relic of Tamil-speaking Hindus season the Buddha or a saint and tank – artificial water- storage lake or reservoir;

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 325 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Bavinck, Marc-Olivier Bergeron, Marieke Holl, Marius Muraska, Mariusz Lewicki, Mark Rimer, Many thanks to the travellers who used the Markus Lindner, Matthew Ashbolt, Meike last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, Sier, Melissa Lazell, Michael Konefal, Moana useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Mutscheller N Nadine Blanc, Natalie Hedges, A Annele Keller, Alex Jones, Alexa Vlaming, Neil Hankinson, Neil Hart, Noor van Hapert Andrea Meier, Andrew Crouch, Anette Czepu- O Olle Klint P Paul Buxton R Randi Johnbeck, lowski, Angelique Braat, Anne Catrien Gielens, Rita Mensink, Roger Race, Ronnie Dunetz, Annemarie Robertsen, Annette Elben, Asit Rose Hawke S Sarah Parish, Saskia Beijering, Mukhopadhyay B Binia Fraser, Birgit Malin, Saskia Fernando, Shirin Reuvers, Shirley Sim, Blanc Nadine, Brat Caroline, Brian Woodgate Siegfried Schoen, Soeren Finkbeiner, Søren & C Catharian Kaffenberger, Cecilia Jensen, Grethe Iversen, Steve Jones, Stine Porsbjerg, Cecilia Rovelli, Cheng Huang Leng, Chris Oey, Suzanne Hamilton T Thomas Winther An- Christopher Rowland, Colleen Mavris D Dani dersen, Tim Giesberts, Tobias Vishvabaratha, Carranza, David Bruce-Steer, David Dimasi, Tony Knight, Tuomo Huuskonen V Véronique David Eisenrauch, David Engstrand, David Tay- D’haens, Virginia Scott lor, Dilsiri Welikala E Elad Wexler, Elisa Janszen, Erich Malter, Ernesto Sanchez Beaumont, AUTHOR THANKS Esther Hermans-Spijker F Floris and Marcella, Frans van Assendelft G Gabriel Corens, Gary Ryan Ver Berkmoes Heiden, Gemma Stewart, George Fogh, Geral- dine Plas H Hans Ohrt, Herman Boerrigter I Thanks to all who made my time in Sri Lanka Irene Söding J James Smith, Jan Joost, Jane a delight and shared valuable insights: Milroy Mason, Javi Molina, Jean-Marc Legras, Jeroen Janaka and my old pal Juliet Coombe were Derichs, Jessy Nourrit, Joelle Abi Chaker, Joep extremely helpful. Thanks to the myriad others van Schalkwijk, John Evans, John Moore, John who answered questions and offered advice to Turner, Jon McGowan, Jonathan Meyer Harri- a seemingly confused traveller who did a lot of son, Julia Antonova K Karel Jan van den Heuvel note taking and always had one more question. Rijnders, Kathryn Smyth, Kathryn Stanczyszyn, Off island, love and thanks to former Sri Lanka Katia Begall, Kevin Callaghan, Krupa Thakrar resident Alexis Averbuck, who gave me reason L Léa Deswarte, Lin Chia Ying, Louisa Johns- to leave. son Zea & Mario Zea, Luis Navas M Maarten

BEHIND THE SCENES326 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Stuart Butler Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated First and foremost I must, once again, thank World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Grace, for putting up with my extended pe- Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. riods away while working on this project and (to Heather) for coping so admirably with two Cover photograph: Stilt fishing, near small children on her own. As always massive Weligama. Jon Hicks/Corbis thanks to my Sri Lankan friends Dimuthu Priyadarshana and family, HA Anura, Milroy Fernando, Sena and Rashinika Kolamba- hewage, Stephanie and Palitha, Ramyadava Gunasekara, Juliet Coombe, Jai and Sumana and Sue and Faiesz, at Sharon Inn. Finally, thanks to all the other nameless Sri Lankans I pestered with questions about bus schedules and so on. Iain Stewart Thanks to Somey for scenic rides and great company, Mark Wyndham and the crew for the bike trip, Dimuthu for his hospitality and all in Mannar and Jaffna. And to James Smart, Joe Bindloss and the Lonely Planet team for their professionalism and help on this title. THIS BOOK Destination Editors Joe Assisting Cartographers Bindloss, James Smart Mick Garrett, Corey Hutchison, This 13th edition of Lonely Product Editor Amanda Rachel Imeson Planet’s Sri Lanka guidebook Williamson Cover Researcher Naomi was researched and written Senior Cartographer David Parker by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Stuart Kemp Butler and Iain Stewart. The Book Designer Jessica Rose Language Content previous two editions were Assisting Editors Victoria Branislava Vladisavljevic written by Brett Atkinson, Harrison, Kate Kiely, Kellie Thanks to Ryan Evans, Stuart Butler, Ethan Gelber, Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Claire Naylor, the Kates, Amy Karafin and Ryan Ver Christopher Pitts, Erin Richards Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson, Berkmoes. Samantha Tyson, Lauren Wellicome

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 327 Index A highlights 194 Negombo 90 Arugam Bay 234 planning 193-4 Unawatuna 116-17, 118 Bentota Ganga 95 accommodation 20, 304-5, Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12, Bundala National Park see also individual B locations 283, 207, 208, 14 13, 134 budgeting 304 Sigiriya 10, 200-4, 201, Badulla 185-6, 185 Galway’s Land National languages 318, 320-1 bailas 283 2, 11 Bambalapitiya 68 Park 167-8 activities 26-8, 39-45, see tickets 157, 195, see Bandarawela 178-9, 178 Hikkaduwa 99 also art, Ayurvedic bargaining 310 Horton Plains National treatments, birdwatch- also individual bathrooms 309 ing, boating, canoeing, locations Batticaloa 242-5, 243, 24 Park 15, 174, 15 cooking, cycling, danc- travel seasons 193 Bawa, Geoffrey 63, 72 Kitulgala 165 ing, diving, dolphin- animals, see wildlife beaches 8, 14, 22, 23, 39-45 Knuckles Range 161 watching, golfing, hiking, watching, individual Koggala Lake 120 horse racing, kitesurfing, animals Arugam Bay 232-4, 238, Kumana Bird Reserve lace-making, meditating, Anuradhapura 10, 215-23, 239, 11 paper-making, safaris, 281-2, 216 239-40 snorkelling, surfing, accommodation 221-2 Batticaloa 242, 24 Minneriya National swimming, tennis, festivals & events 221 Bentota 95 walking, watersports, food 222 Chempiyanpattu 274 Park 213 whale-watching, history 215 Elephant Pass 273 Muthurajawela white-water rafting, sights 215-21 Galle 107, 115 wildlife watching, tickets 223 Goyambokka 129 Marsh 86 windsurfing, yoga tourist information 223 Hikkaduwa 98-9, 42 Nalanda Gedige 197 tours 221 Jaffna’s Islands 274-6 Negombo 88 Adam’s Bridge 261 travel to/from 223 Kalkudah 245-6 Pottuvil 237-8 Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) 12, travel within 223 Kalpitiya 91-3 Pulmoddai 255 architecture 25, 72, see also Mannar Island 260-1 Sinharaja Forest 28, 163-5, 192, 12 colonial architecture Matara 126 Adisham Monastery 176 art galleries, see museums Mirissa 124, 39 Reserve 190 afternoon tea 35 & galleries Mt Lavinia 68, 76 Tangamalai 177 Ahangama 121-2 Negombo 87, 88 Udawattakelle air travel 312, 313 Arugam Bay 11, 22, 233, 11 Nilaveli 253-4 airlines 312 accommodation 22, 234-6 Passekudah 245-6 Sanctuary 150 airports 312 activities 233-4 Point Pedro 273 Wilpattu National Aluthgama 95-8 drinking 236-7 southern Sri Lanka 103 Aluvihara 196 food 236-7 Talalla 128 Park 93-4 Amangalla 108 safety 237 Tangalla 130, 131, 8 Wirawila Wewa Bird Ambalangod 102 tourist information 237 Trincomalee 249, 250 Ampara 240-1 travel to/from 237 Unawatuna 115-7, 118, 44 Sanctuary 137 Ancient Cities 54, 193-228, Uppuveli 251-2, 14 Uda Walawe ATMs 308 Belihul Oya 175 194 Aukana Buddha 222 Bentota 95-8 National Park 10, 22, accommodation 193 Aurudu (New Year) 26 bicycle travel, see cycling 188-9, 10 Anuradhapura 10, 215-23, Ayurvedic treatments 13, 25, birds, see birdwatching Yala National Park birdwatching 24-5, 47, 50, 138-9, 2 281-2, 216, 10 96, 307, 13 2, 10 boars 46-7, 138-9, 167-8, climate 193 Colombo 69-70 173-4, 189-90 food 193 Ella 182 boating 43 Hikkaduwa 101 Map Pages 000 Kandy area 151, 161 Batticaloa 245, 24 Photo Pages 000 Mirissa 124 Bentota Ganga 95 Kandy 151 Pigeon Island National Park 253-4 Pottuvil 238 books 278, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 291, 295 Borella 64-5

328 I N D E X B - D Bridge on the River Dowa Temple 179 car travel 22, 250, 314-16 highlights 57 Kwai 165 Gadaladeniya history 58 Cargills Main Store 59, 16 internet access 82 Buddha statues, see Temple 160 casinos 80 itineraries 58 also Buddhist temples Gangarama Maha cell phones 18, 19, 309 neighbourhoods 59 Aluvihara 196 cemeteries planning 56-7 Vihara 99 safety 82 Anuradhapura 219, 10 Gangaramaya Commonwealth War shopping 17, 22, 80-2 Aukana Buddha 222 Cemetery 251 sights 58-63, 67-9 Buduruwagala 187 Temple 63 tourist information 82 Kataluwa Purwarama Kandy Garrison tours 70 Dambulla 197-9, 31 Cemetery 150 travel seasons 56 Degal Doruwa Raja Temple 120 travel to/from 82-3 Kelaniya Raja Maha Kandy War travel within 63, 83 Maha Vihara 150 Cemetery 158 Colombo Fort 60-1 Dowa Temple 179 Vihara 69 Colombo to Kandy 144 Kirinda Temple 138 Ceylon Tea Museum 149 Colombo to Negombo 86 Maligawila 232, 5 Kirivehara 140 children, travel with 51-2, colonial architecture 16, 25 Mulkirigala 128 Kudimbigala Forest Colombo 22, 58-63, 154 Polonnaruwa 210, 14 Hermitage 239 Christianity 299 67-9, 16 Pottuvil 238 Lankatilake Temple churches & cathedrals Galle 13, 22, 105, Buddhangala Rock Hermitage 241 158, 160 Dutch Reformed 107-8, 13 Buddhism 282, 297-8 Mahiyangana Church 107 Jaffna 263-7 Buddhist sites, see also Matara 126 Buddhist temples Dagoba 162 Our Lady of Madhu consulates 305-6 Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) Magul Maha Church 262 cooking classes 35 Beruwela 96 12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12 Vihara 240 St Anthony’s 69 Colombo 70 Aluvihara 196 St Lucia’s 69 Ella 182-3 Mihintale 24, 223-6, 224 St Mark’s Church 185 Galle 112, 113 Anuradhapura 215-21, 10 Mulkirigala rock St Paul’s Church 150 Giritale 212 Buddhangala Rock St Peter’s Church 59 Matara 126 temples 128 Wolvendaal Church 61 Unawatuna 117 Hermitage 241 Muthiyagana courses, see classes Buduruwagala 187 Cinnamon Gardens 64-5 credit cards 308 Dambulla Cave Temples Vihara 185 classes cricket 80, 108 Nagadipa Temple 275-6 crocodiles 86, 93, 134, 197-8, 31 art 70 138-9, 188, 213, 239-40, Deegawapi 241-2 Polonnaruwa 206-10, 14 cooking 35, 70, 96, 245, 294 Kataragama 140-1 Rakkhiththakanda cultural triangle, see  Magul Maha Vihara 240 112, 113, 117, 126, Ancient Cities Mandalagiri Vihara 213 Len Viharaya Cave 182-3, 212 currency 18 Mihintale 223-6 Temple 186 dance 102 curry 37, see also food Panduwasnuwara 227 Ravanna Ella diving 45, 87, 88, 99, customs regulations 305 Pathma Vihara 232 Temple 185 117, 123, 243, 251, 254 cycling 313-14, 316 Ridi Vihara 227-8 Ridi Vihara 227-8 Adam’s Peak Ritigala Ruins 214-15 Rumassala Peace kitesurfing 87, 41 Pagoda 115 lace-making 114 (Sri Pada) 164 Sigiriya 200-3, 2, 11 Sri Maha Bodhi 10 meditation 70, 96, Anuradhapura 223 Situlpahuwa 139 Tanaveram Giritale 212 Temple of the Sacred Buddhist Temple 128 155, 160 Jaffna 271 Temple of the Sacred paper-making 114 Kandy 151 Tooth Relic 15, 24, Tooth Relic 15, 24, Nuwara Eliya 169 145-9, 15, 28 145-9, 15, 28 surfing 42-3, 99, 121, Polonnaruwa 212 Yapahuwa Rock Tissa Dagoba 134-5 11, 42 Fortress 226-7 Wewurukannala D Yudaganawa 231-2 Vihara 129 watersports 95 Buddhist temples 23-4, Yatagala Raja Maha windsurfing 43 Dambatenne Tea 215, see also Buddhist Viharaya 115 yoga 96, 115-17, 129, Factory 176 sites, Buddhist statues, Yatala Wehera 134 monasteries budgeting 19, 304, 306 235, 239 Dambulla 197-200 Buduruwagala 187 climate 18, 26-8, 40, see Anuradhapura 215-21, 10 buffaloes 138, 188, 213, Dambulla Cave Temples 234, 293 also individual regions Bundala National Park Colombo 17, 53, 56-83, 197-8, 31 13, 134, 13 Degal Doruwa Raja Burghers 297 57, 60-1, 64-5, 68, bus travel 314, 316 16, 17 Maha Vihara 150 business hours 19, 308 accommodation 22, 56, 71-5 Map Pages 000 C activities 69-70 Photo Pages 000 climate 56 canals 86, 87 drinking & nightlife 78-9 canoeing 43 emergency services 82 entertainment 79-80 festivals & events 70-1 food 56, 75-8, 21

329 Dambulla Cave Temples Arugam Bay 234 Karaitivu 276 Knuckles Range 161-2 I N D E X D - H 197-8, 198, 31 Ampara 240 Mannar Town 260 Monaragala 230 Elephant Transit Matara 126 Pidurutalagala 169 dancing 102 Negombo 86 dangers, see safety Home 188 Trincomalee 247 Hikkaduwa 98-102, 99, 42 deer 47, 93, 138-9, 188, Kaudulla National Yapahuwa 226-7 Hikkaduwa National frescoes 190, 213-14 Park 213-14 Aluvihara 196 Park 98 Degal Doruwa Raja Millennium Elephant Kolawenigama Hill Country 54, 142-92, Maha Vihara 150 Foundation 144 Temple 190 143 Dehiwala 70 Minneriya National Sigiriya 201-2, 2 accommodation 142 Dematal Vihara 232 Tivanka Image climate 142 Dikwella 129 Park 213-14 food 142 disabilities, travellers Pinnewala Elephant House 210 highlights 143 Yapahuwa 226-7 planning 142-3 with 310 Orphanage 144 fruit 34, 172, 36 travel seasons 142 discount cards 305 Uda Walawe National diving 23, 40, 45, 316 G Hindu temples 16, 28 Park 188 Anipandi Sitivigniswara Batticaloa 243 Yala National Park Galle 13, 104-15, 106, 111, Alayar 242 Dutch Bay 92 13, 24 Colombo 61, 69 Great Basses 137 138-40, 2, 48 accommodation 22, Embekka Devale 158 Hikkaduwa 98 Ella 179-84, 180 109-10, 112 Gadaladeniya Temple Kalpitiya 92 activities 108-9 160 Negombo 87, 88 accommodation 181-2 drinking & nightlife 113-14 Kandasamy Kovil 247-9 Nilaveli 253-4 drinking 182-3 festivals & events 109 Kataragama Devale 185 Unawatuna 117 food 182-3 food 22, 112-13 Kathiresan Kovil 61 Uppuveli 251 shopping 183 history 104-5 Lankatilake Temple Weligama 123 tourist information 183 shopping 114 158, 160 dolphin-watching 43, travel to/from 183-4 sights 105, 107-8 Maha Devale 140 45, 44 Ella environs 184-5, 184 tourist information 114 Munneswaram 91 Dutch Bay 92 Ella Rock 180 travel to/from 114-15 Naga Pooshani Amman Kalpitiya 91-2 embassies 305-6 travel within 114-15 Kovil 275 Uppuveli 252 Embilipitiya 187-8 Naguleswaram Shiva Dondra 128 emergencies 319, 321, Galle Face Green 61-2, 21 Kovil 271 drinks 34-8, see also tea, see also individual Galle Fort 13, 110-11, 13 Nalanda Gedige 197 individual locations locations Galway’s Land National Nallur Kandaswamy budgeting 306 endangered species 294 Kovil 263-5, 271 languages 318-19, 321 environmental issues 118, Park 22 Okanda Sri Murugan tipping 21, 308 292-5 Gangaramaya Temple 24 Kovil 239 driving 22, 250, 314-16 etiquette 21 gay travellers 306 Polonnaruwa 206-10 Duruthu Perahera 26 beaches 41 gem stones 192 Ravanna Ella Temple 185 Dutch Bay 91-3 photography 308-9 Giritale 212-13 Salli Muthumariamunam Dutch Canal 86 temples 215 golfing 151, 169 Kovil 251 Dutch Fort, Batticaloa 242 exchange rates 19 Goyambokka 129-30 Seetha Amman Temple Dutch Fort, Negombo 86 169 F H Sivam Kovil 140 E Sri Muthumariamman festivals & events 26-8, Habarana 204-6 Kovil 69 East Sri Lanka 54, 28, see also poya, Hambantota 136 Sri Muthumariamman 229-55, 230 individual locations Haputale 175-8, 176 Thevasthanam 196 accommodation 229 Kandy Esala Perahera health 306-8 Sri Ponnambalam climate 229 149 Helga’s Folly 152 Vanesar Kovil 69 food 229 Kataragama Festival Henerathgoda Botanic Thiruchendur Murugan highlights 230 141 Alayam Temple 242 planning 229-30 Vesak Festival 163 Gardens 144 Thirukketeeswaram travel seasons 229 hiking, see also walking Kovil 261 food 14, 34-8, 77, 14, Thurkkai Amman eating 34-8, see also food, 21, 36, see also  Adam’s Peak Kovil 271 individual locations individual locations (Sri Pada) 163 Valipura Kovil 273 budgeting 306 economy 21, 278-9 languages 318-19, Ella 180-1 Hinduism 298-9 electricity 305 321, 322 Haputale 177 history 280-91 Elephant Pass 267, 273-4 tipping 21, 308 Kandy 151 elephants 10, 13, 47, 134, Kitulgala 165 after the tsunami 289 forts 284 Anuradhapura 281-2 293-4 Batticaloa 242 Colombo 58-9 Galle 13, 105, 107-8, 13 Jaffna 265-6

I N D E X H - M330 history 258 Labookellie Tea Factory 166 Mannar Island 261 history, continued planning 256-7 languages 18, 21, 318-24 Midigama 121-2 birth of the Tigers safety 263 286-7 travel seasons 256, 258 Sinhala 318-20 Mihintale 24, 223-6, 224 end of the war 289-91 Jaffna Fort 265-6 Sri Lankan English 322 military 275, 278 Polonnaruwa 283 Jaffna Peninsula 22, 271-4, Tamil 320-2 Millennium Elephant prehistory & early 272 legal matters 308 arrivals 280-1 Jaffna’s Islands 274-6 leopards 138 Foundation 144 road to independence Japanese Peace Kumana National Minneriya National 285-6 Pagoda 240 trade & conquest Park 239-40 Park 213-14 283-4 K Sinharaja Forest war & attempts at Mirissa 17, 123-6, 17, 39 peace 287-9 Kalpitiya 91-3 Reserve 190 mobile phones 18, 19, 309 hitching 316 Kandy 15, 144-58, 146-7, Wilpattu National Monaragala 231 holidays 309 monasteries, see also Ho-o-maniya 15, 28 Park 93, 48 Blowhole 129 accommodation 151-4 lesbian travellers 306 Buddhist temples horse racing 169 activities 150-1 Liberation Tigers of Abhayagiri 218-19 Horton Plains drinking & nightlife 155 Adisham Monastery National Park 15, entertainment 155 Tamil Eelam 274, 173-5, 15 food 154 286-91 176-7 human rights 278-9 internet access 156 Lighthouse Point 238 Aluvihara 196 Hundungoda Tea safety 156 Lionel Wendt Centre 67 Estate 121 shopping 155-6 Lipton, Thomas 175 Gal Vihara 210, 14 sights 145-50 literature 278 Indikatu Seya 226 I tourist information 156-7 Little Adam’s Peak 180 Ritigala ruins 214 travel to/from 157 Induruwa 95-8 travel within 158 M Sigiriya 10, 200-3, 2, 11 insurance 306, 308 Kandy environs 158-62, money 18, 19, 21, 308, 310 internet access 308, 159 Magul Maha Vihara 240 moneychangers 308 Kandy Esala Perahera Maha Sivarathri 26 monkeys 46-7, 86, 138-9, see also individual 27, 149 Mahiyangana Dagoba 162 locations Kandy Lake 145 Maligawila 232, 5 150 internet resources 19 Kandy to Nuwara Eliya 166 Mandalagiri Vihara 213 Moors 297 Islam 299 Kandy War Cemetery 158 Mannar Island 260-2 mosques itineraries 29-33, 29-33 Kandyan dance 156 maps 308 Kantarodai Ruins 271 Marawila 91 Auliya Mosque 242 J Karaitivu 276 markets Dewata-Gaha Kataragama 140-1, 140 Jaffna 16, 262-71, 264-5, Kaudulla National Aluthgama 95 Mosque 67 16, 28 Park 213, 213-14 Bandarawela 178 Grand Jummah accommodation 267-8 Keerimalai spring 272 Batticaloa 242 drinking 268-9 kitesurfing 43, 41 Colombo 60, 77, 81, Mosque 259 festivals & events 267 Dutch Bay 92 Grand Mosque 61 food 268-9 Kalpitiya 92 82, 17 Jami-ul-Alfar 61 history 263 Negombo 87 Dambulla 199 Ul-Khizr Mosque 141 internet access 270 Kitulgala 165-6, 43 Galle 108, 119 motorcycle travel 314-16 shopping 269-70 Knuckles Range 161-2 Jaffna 269-70 sights 263-7 Koggala Lake 120 Kandy 155 Mt Lavinia 70 tourist information 270 Kollupitiya 64-5 Matara 127 Mulkirigala 24, 128 travel to/from 270-1 Koslanda 186 Monaragala 230 museums & galleries travel within 271 kotthu 77, see also food Negombo 86-7 Kudimbigala Forest Nuwara Eliya 169 Abhayagiri Museum 219 Jaffna & the North 54, Hermitage 239 Ratnapura 192 Archaeological Museum, 256-76, 257 Kumana National Park Udappuwa 91 accommodation 256 239-40 masks 102, 310 Anuradhapura 220 climate 256, 258 Kurunegala 228 Matale 195-7 Archaeological Museum, food 256 Matara 126-8, 127 highlights 257 L measures 309 Deegawapi 242 medical services 306, Archaeological Museum, Map Pages 000 see also individual Photo Pages 000 locations Jaffna 266-7 meditating Archaeological Museum, Beruwela 96 Colombo 63, 70 Polonnaruwa 207 Kandy 150, 155, 160 Archaeological Museum, Vavuniya 258 Archaeological Museum, Wellawaya 187 Ariyapala Mask Museum 102 Central Point 59 Ceylon Tea Museum 149 Dambulla Museum 199 Dutch Period Museum 61 Folk Museum 220 Gangaramaya Temple 63

331 Geoffrey Bawa House 63 Hikkaduwa National tours 170 Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12, I N D E X M - R Jaffna Archaelogical Park 98 travel to/from 173 283, 207, 208, 14 accommodation 210-11 Museum 266-7 Horton Plains O food 211 Jaffna Art Gallery 270 National Park 15, history 206 Jetavanarama 173-5, 15 Old Dutch Hospital 58 internet access 211 opening hours 19, 308 sights 206-10 Museum 219-20 Kaudulla National tickets 211 Kataragama Museum 141 Park 213-14 P tourist information Lionel Wendt Centre 67 211-12 Marine Archeological Kottawa Conservation Padeniya Raja travel to/from 212 Forest 115 Mahavihara 227 travel within 212 Museum 107-8 Martin Wickramasinghe Kumana Bird palmyra 269 population 279 Reserve 239-40 Panama 239 Folk Art Museum 120 Panduwasnuwara 227 Pottuvil 237-8, 238 Mihintale Museum 226 Kumana National parks & gardens, see Pottuvil Lagoon 237-8 National Art Gallery 67 Park 239-40 poya 27, 298, 309, see also National Maritime also national parks & Minneriya National reserves festivals & events Museum 108 Park 213-14 Brief Garden 95 public holidays 309 National Museum, Henerathgoda Botanic Pulmoddai 255 Pigeon Island National Gardens 144 Punkudutivu 275 Colombo 67 Park 253-4 Peradeniya Botanic National Museum, Gardens 158 R Ritigala Strict Nature Royal Pleasure Galle 108 Reserve 214-15 Gardens 220 Rajapaksa, Mahinda 278-9 National Museum, Victoria Park 167 Ratnapura 192 Sinharaja Forest Viharamahadevi Rawana 249 Kandy 149-50 Reserve 189-92 Park 67 religion 279, 297-9 Rangala House passports 312 reserves, see national Uda Walawe National Pearl Island 260 Gallery 155 Park 10, 22, 188-9, 10 people 296-9 parks & reserves, parks Saskia Fernando Peradeniya Botanic & gardens Wilpattu National Park Gardens 158 responsible travel 295 Gallery 67 22, 93-4 Pettah 60-1 Ridi Vihara 227-8 Sigiriya Museum 203 Pettah Markets 60, 17 Ritigala Ruins 214-15 Shoba Display Wirawila Wewa Bird photography 308-9 Ritigala Strict Nature Sanctuary 137-8 Pidurangala Rock 203 Reserve 214-15 Gallery 14 Pigeon Island National rock monasteries & Temple of the Yala National Park Park 253-4 temples 138-40, 2 Pinnewala Elephant Buddhangala Rock Sacred Tooth Relic Orphanage 144 Hermitage 241 15, 24, 145-9, 15, 28 Neduntivu (Delft) 276 planning, see also  Dambulla Cave Temples Traditional Puppet individual regions 197-8, 198, 31 Art Museum 68 Negombo 86-91, 87, 88 budgeting 19, 304, 306 Gal Vihara 210 Tsunami Photo accommodation 88-90 calendar of events 26-8 Isurumuniya Vihara Museum 100 activities 87-8 children 51-2, 154 220-1 World Buddhism drinking & nightlife 90 drinks 34-8 Mulkirigala 128 Museum 148-9 food 90 exchange rates 19 Sigiriya 10, 200-3, Vavuniya 258 sights 86-7 first-time visitors 20-1 201, 2, 11 Yapahuwa 227 tourist information 90 flag 290 Yapahuwa Rock Muthurajawela travel to/from 91 food 34-8, 14, 21, 36 Fortress 226-7 Marsh 86 travel within 91 internet resources 19 Yatagala Raja Maha itineraries 29-33 Viharaya 115 N Negombo to Kalpitiya 91 repeat visitors 22 ruins newspapers 309 Sri Lankan basics 18-19 Anuradhpura 217-9 Nagadipa 24 Sri Lankan regions 53-4 Colombo 86 Nainativu (Nagadipa) Nilaveli 253-5, 254 telephone services 19 Deegawapi 241-2 North Sri Lanka 54, travel seasons 18, 26-8 Jaffna 266 275-6 Point Pedro 273 Kantarodai 271 Nalanda Gedige 197 256-76, 257 politics 278-9 Mandalagiri Vihara 213 National Museum, accommodation 256 Mihintale 223-6 climate 256, 258 Panduwasnuwara 227 Colombo 67 food 256 National Museum, highlights 257 history 258 Galle 108 planning 256-7 National Museum, safety 263 travel seasons 256, 258 Kandy 149-50 national parks & reserves Nuwara Eliya 166-73, 168 activities 169 46-50, 139, see also drinking 173 parks & gardens food 172 Bundala National history 167 Park 13, 134, 13 sights 167-9 Galway’s Land National sleeping 170-2 Park 22, 167-8 tourist information 173

332 ruins, continued Marble Beach 250 see also drinks, tea U Polonnaruwa 208-209 Nilaveli 253-4 plantations Pottuvil 238 Pigeon Island 254 tea plantations 12, 166, Uda Walawe National Park Ritigala Strict Nature Unawatuna 117 302, see also tea 10, 22, 188-9, 10 Reserve 214 Weligama 123 Dambatenne Tea South Sri Lanka 53, Factory 176 Unawatuna 115-20, 116, 44 I N D E X R -W S 103-41, 104 Hundungoda Tea accommodation 117-19 accommodation 103 Estate 121 activities 115-17 safaris 46-50, 316, see beaches 103 Labookellie Tea drinking 119 also national parks & climate 103 Factory 166 food 119 reserves highlights 104 Newburgh Green Tea internet access 120 Kumana National planning 103-4 Factory 180, 31 tourist information Park 240 travel seasons 103 Pedro Tea Estate 167, 12 119-20 Kaudulla National spice gardens 195 Uva Halpewaththa travel to/from 120 Park 213 sports, see individual Tea Factory 184-5 travel within 120 Minneriya National activities, individual telephone services 18, 309 Park 213-4 sports Temple of the Sacred Unesco World Heritage Wilpattu National Sri Maha Bodhi 10, 24, Tooth Relic 24, 145-9, Sites 25, 294 Park 93-4 215-17, 294 15, 28 Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) Uda Walawe National Star Fortress 260 tennis 169 12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12 Park 188-9, 10 stilt fishermen 120 theft 308 Anuradhapura 10, Yala National Park strawberries 172 three-wheelers 316 215-21, 10 138-40, 2 surfing 42-3 time 18, 309 Central Highlands 15 Ahangama 121 tipping 21, 308 Dambulla Cave safety 306, 309 Arugam Bay 11, 233-4, 11 Tissa Wewa 134 Temples 197-8, 31 Arugam Bay 237 Hikkaduwa 99, 42 Tissamaharama 22, 134-7, Galle Fort 13, 105, Colombo 82 Midigama 121 107-8, 13 diving 45 Panama 239 135 Horton Plains National hitching 316 Pottuvil 238 toilets 309 Park 15, 173-5, 15 Jaffna 263 Weligama 123 tourism 279 Jaffna 16, 262-71, Kandy 156 Whiskey Point 238 tourist information 310, 264-5, 16 North Sri Lanka 262 Swami Rock 247 Kandy 15, 144-58, swimming 40-1 Swayamghu Lingam 249 see also individual 146-7, 15, 28 World’s End 174 swimming 40-1 locations Knuckles Range 161-2 Arugam Bay 234 tours 316, see also Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12, salt pans 255 Colombo 71 individual locations 283, 207, 208, 14 sea travel 313 Karaitivu 276 car travel 315 Sigiriya 10, 200-4, shopping 25, 310, see Kottawa Conservation cycling 313 201, 2, 11 tea 302 Sinharaja Forest also individual Forest 115 walking 70, 108, 110-11 Reserve 189-92 locations Marble Beach 250 train travel 8, 22, 316-17 bargaining 310 Passekudah Beach 246 transport 312-17, see also Uppuveli 251-3, 252, 14 languages 319, 321 Urumale 261 individual locations Uva Halpewaththa Tea opening hours 308 highways 315 Sigiriya 10, 200-4, T languages 320, 322 Factory 184-5 201, 2, 11 travel to/from Sinhala language 318-20 Talalla 128-9 Sri Lanka 312-13 V Sinhalese people 296 Tamil language 320-2 travel within Sinharaja Forest Tamil people 296 Sri Lanka 313-17 vacations 309 Reserve 189-92 Tamil Tigers, see Liberation travel seasons, see also  vaccinations 306-7 Situlpahuwa, 139 individual regions vahalkadas 225 sloth bears 93, 138, Tigers of Tamil Eelam travel to/from Valvettiturai 272-3 188, 214 Tangalla 22, 130-3, 132, 8 Sri Lanka 312-13 Vavuniya 258-60, 258 smoking 309 tanks 282 travel within Veddahs 162, 280, 296 snorkelling 23, 40, 45 Sri Lanka 313-17 Velanai 275 Bentota 95 Anuradhapura 220 trekking, see hiking Vesak Poya 27 Dutch Bay 92 Minneriya Tank 214 Viharamahadevi Hikkaduwa 98 Sigiriya 202 Trincomalee 247-51, 248 Kalpitiya 92 Tissa Wewa 134 tsunami 118 Park 67 Taprobane Island 123 Tsunami Photo visas 18, 310-11 Map Pages 000 taxis 316 volunteering 311 Photo Pages 000 tea 35, 149, 300-2, 31, Museum 100 turtles 94, 130, 131, 134, W 239-40, 253-4 Waikkal 91 TV 309 walking 23, see also hiking,

333 Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) watersports Whiskey Point 238 Wilpattu National I N D E X W-Y 12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12 Bentota 95 Park 22, 93-4, 48 Uppuveli 251 white-water rafting 40, 43, Colombo 70 165, 316, 43 Yala National Park 138-9, Ella 180-1 weather 18, 26-8, 40 2, 48 websites, see internet wildlife watching 24-5, Galle Fort 108, 110-11, 111 46-7, 50, 234, 292, Wilpattu National Park Haputale 177 resources 293-4, 295, 316, see 22, 93-4 Kandy 150 Weligama 123 also individual animals Kataragama 141 windsurfing 43, 95 Knuckles Range 161-2 Wellawatta 68 Arugam Bay 234 Wirawila Wewa Bird Kottawa Conservation Wellawaya 186-7 West Sri Lanka 53, Bundala National Sanctuary 137-8 Forest 115 Park 13, 134, 13 Wolvendaal Church 61 Monaragala 231 84-102, 85 women travellers 311 Nuwara Eliya 169 accommodation 84 Horton Plains National Tissamaharama 22, 134 climate 84 Park 15, 173-4, 15 World’s End 15, 173-5, 15 Unawatuna 117 food 84 highlights 85 Kaudulla National Y World’s End 15, 174-5, 15 planning 84-5 Park 213-14 waterfalls travel seasons 84 Yala National Park 138- Wewurukannala Kumana National 40, 2 Bambarakanda Falls 175 Vihara 129 Park 239-40 Diyaluma Falls 186 whale-watching 40, 43, 45 Yapahuwa 226-7 Dunhinda Falls 185-6 Dutch Bay 92 Millennium Elephant yoga Kiruwananaganga Kalpitiya 92 Foundation 144 Arugam Bay 235, 239 Falls 190 Mirissa 17, 124, 17 Minneriya National Beruwela 96 Lovers Leap 168 Trincomalee 247 Park 213-14 Habarana 204 Ramboda Falls 166 Uppuveli 252, 254 Kandy 153, 161 Rawana Ella Falls 185 Pinnewala Elephant Talalla 129 Orphanage 144 Unawatuna 115-17, 118 Yudaganawa 231-2 Pottuvil 237-8 Sinharaja Forest Reserve 189-90 Turtle Watch Rekawa 130 Uda Walawe National Park 10, 22, 188-9, 10

334 NOTES 

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 335 Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Ryan Ver Berkmoes Coordinating Author, Colombo, The South. Ryan first visited Sri Lanka in 2005 after the tsunami when he covered the aftermath as a journalist. Impressed then at Sri Lanka’s resilience, he’s only more impressed now as the island emerges from its long time in the shadows. On his visits since he has criss- crossed this beautiful island looking for the best rice and curry ever. He’s had some great ones but this sort of quest should never end. Ryan writes about travel and more at ryanverberkmoes.com and @ryanvb Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes Stuart Butler The West, The Hill Country. Originally from Devon in the UK, Stuart first made it to Sri Lanka during a long trans-Asia surf trip back in the early 1990s. One wave and one curry later and he was hooked. Since then the food, beaches, wildlife, waves, people and hills have called him back dozens of times. His travels have also taken him across South Asia and beyond, from the savannah of East Africa to the Arctic tundra. He now lives with his wife and two small children on the beaches of southwest France. Stuart also wrote Beaches & Activities, National Parks & Safaris, Travel with Children and Environmental Issues. His website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com Read more about Stuart at: lonelyplanet.com/members/stuartbutler Iain Stewart The Ancient Cities, The East, Jaffna & the North. Iain has been captivated by Sri Lanka for years but this was his first writing assignment in the country. High- lights on this trip were a 1000km motorbike journey through the hill country and tea plantations, the majesty of Anuradhapura, hanging out with Mark in Jaffna, blue whales offshore and elephants on land, fresh seafood in Mirissa and good old rice and curry by the roadside. Iain also wrote Eat & Drink Like a Local and Sri Lankan Tea. Read more about Iain at: lonelyplanet.com/members/iainstewart Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 13th edition – January 2015 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- ISBN 978 1 74220 802 2 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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