Crisp cinnamon biscuits ARLETTES À LA CANNELLE This recipe will allow you to use up all the puff pastry trimmings. Serve the crisp cinnamon biscuit with crème caramel (page 182) or dark chocolate and orange mousse (page 184). Makes approximately 30 / Preparation time: 20 minutes / Resting time in the freezer: 2 hours Resting time in the fridge: 30 minutes / Baking time: 10–14 minutes at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 You will need 2 non-stick baking trays INGREDIENTS 200g puff pastry or puff pastry trimmings (see page 12, piled up carefully on top of each other) 20g butter 50g icing sugar ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1. Make the puff pastry following the method on page 12. This can be done the day before. 2. Melt the butter in a pan. Roll out the puff pastry into a rectangle, 2mm thick, and brush it with butter. Roll the pastry into a sausage shape, and put it in the freezer for 2 hours. 3. Mix the icing sugar with the cinnamon using a fork and spread it out on a plate. 4. Remove the puff pastry from the freezer and cut it with a sharp knife into 3mm slices. 5. Coat each slice with cinnamon icing sugar and roll them out very thinly in order to get a waffle-thin pastry, 10cm in diameter, using as much cinnamon icing sugar as needed. 6. Place the crisp cinnamon biscuits between 2 sheets of baking paper, then between 2 baking trays to keep them flat, and put them in the fridge for 30 minutes. Bake for 8 minutes then turn the trays and bake for another 2–4 minutes until they are golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.
Acknowledgements To my sister Isabelle Valette. It’s been an incredible journey, and a very long one too! It has been three years since that extraordinary evening (with just a little bit too much red wine) on your Oslo terrace when it all started. Isa, thank you for making me understand that the only limits are in our minds and for being there for me every step of the way. To Annabelle Coelho and Greg Bartholomew. Thank you Annabelle for your constant support and encouragement when I most needed it! You’re an amazing friend. Thank you both for your time and advice, and for patiently going over the manuscript in a very short period of time. A special thank you to Miranda and Pontus Carminger, Ockenden Manor’s owners and my sponsors, for financing the photo shoots and allowing me to use the facilities to test the recipes, as well as organise the photo sessions. Thank you for believing in me at an early stage of the book and making the adventure possible. A special thanks to Stephen Crane, Ockenden Manor’s head chef, for creating inventive schedules that allowed me to both write and work at the same time. A really big thanks to Mark Charker, the junior sous-chef (and my number one), Alasdair Mulvey and Jack Amstrong for covering for me in pastry. Thank you Adam Smith, Ockenden Manor’s manager, for your guidance, support and advice. Thank you Stuart Dolby (assistant restaurant manager), William Spalla (restaurant manager), Vincent Fayat (sous-chef), Sue Maxted and Tiffani Thompson for your help during the photo shoots. A big thanks to all my colleagues for tasting the recipes and giving me feedback. I loved sharing that experience with you all. Thank you Lisa Devlin, an amazing and gifted photographer, for your wonderful pictures and designing skills. Working with you was inspiring on so many levels and really fun too. The book would not have looked the same without you. Thanks Poppy Bartholomew for your legal expertise. A huge thanks to my publishers, Nikki Read and Giles Lewis for making my dream of writing a cookbook in English a reality! I would also like to thank everyone at How To Books and Constable & Robinson: Jo Stansall, Nicki Gyopari, Ian Hughes and everyone who worked on this book. To my family, my supporting team. Thank you Maman for all the great inspiration, pastry talks and for sending me some pieces of France and home for the photos shoots. Thanks Papa for your strategic advice, and my sisters Stéphanie Valette and Emilie Valette, for taking so many nice family pictures. Thanks Øyvind Remme and Boris Pageaux for the IT support at key moments and, a special merci to Øyvind for making great dinners for Isa and me when we needed to hold it together. A big thanks to
Angélique Salvagnac, Marie-Paule Salvagnac, Guy Salvagnac, Jean-Philippe Salvagnac, Thibault Chaudières, Eric Chirio and my very young commis chef twins Antoine and Clara Chirio, together with Paul Chirio for your help during the photo shoots in France. This book has been a family affair! I’m so glad that you are all a part of this adventure, there is a little of each of you in it. De tout cœur, merci.
Index almond cream (la crème d’amande) 30 almond croissants, how to roll up 138 Alsatian apple tart (tarte Alsacienne aux pommes) 52 apple and blackberry turnovers (chaussons aux pommes et à la mûre) 106 apple and cinnamon tart (tarte aux pommes et à la cannelle) 44 apple tart Tatin (tarte Tatin aux pommes) 96 apricot and almond tart (tarte amandine aux abricots) 66 apricot financiers (financiers à l’abricot) 222 apricot jam roulade cake (biscuit roulé à la confiture d’abricot) 192 Aveyron prune tart (tarte aux pruneaux Aveyronnaise) 156 baked Alaska (omelette norvégienne) 200 basic techniques 5–40 Basque custard and black cherry pie (gâteau Basque) 74 Black Forest gateau (forêt-noire) 216 blueberry and lemon tart (tarte aux myrtilles citronnées) 56 Bretons biscuits (galettes Bretonnes) 238 brioche dough (la pâte à brioche) 20 buttercream (la crème au beurre) 32 cannelés (cannelés bordelaise) 224 caramel, how to make a 126 caramelized lemon tart (tarte caramélisée au citron) 60 Chantilly choux (choux Chantilly) 116 Chantilly cream (la crème Chantilly) 34 cherry and cinnamon brioche tart (tarte briochée aux cerises) 158 cherry and hazelnut pithiviers (pithiviers à la noisette et aux cerises) 104 cherry clafoutis (clafoutis aux cerises) 166
chestnut and pear charlotte (charlotte à la châtaigne et aux poires) 208 chocolate and orange cake (reine de saba à l’orange) 214 chocolate éclairs (éclairs au chocolat) 118 chocolate mousse filling, how to make a dark 62 chocolate profiteroles (profiteroles au chocolat) 120 chocolate shavings, how to make 204 chocolate Vienna breads (pains Viennois au chocolat) 150 choux pastry (la pâte à choux) 14, 115–34 coffee, vanilla and chocolate bavarois (bavarois café, vanille et chocolat) 186 coffee moka (moka au café) 198 crème anglaise 26 crème pâtissière 28 crisp cinnamon biscuits (arlettes à la cannelle) 252 croissant dough (la pâte à croissants) 16, 18 croissants, almond croissants, pains au chocolat and pains aux raisins 144 croissants, how to roll up 136 dark chocolate and lemon madeleines (madeleines au citron et au chocolat noir) 220 dark chocolate and orange mousse (mousse au chocolat noir à l’orange) 184 dark chocolate florentines (florentins au chocolat noir) 236 dark chocolate millefeuille (mille-feuille tout chocolat) 112 deliciously light chocolate tart (tarte au chocolat délicieusement légère) 64 double chocolate and raspberry sponge (framboisier aux deux chocolats) 206 Earl Grey crème brûlée (crème brûlée au thé Earl Grey) 180 fig, honey and almond tart (tarte amandine au miel et aux figues) 68 fine plum tart (tarte fine aux prunes) 100 finger biscuits (langues-de-chat) 242 flaked almond tuiles (tuiles aux amandes effilées) 234 flans, creams and egg batters (les flans, crèmes et desserts aux oeufs) 165–89 floating islands (oeufs à la neige) 178 French meringue (la meringue Françaises) 36, 246 French toast (pains perdus) 172
French wedding cake (croquembouche) 128 Génoise sponge (la pâte à Génoise) 24 greengage tart (tarte aux reines-claudes) 48 hazelnut and milk chocolate macaroons (macarons à la noisette et au chocolat au lait) 232 hazelnut dacquoise, how to make a 210 hazelnut layer cake (dacquoise à la noisette) 212 heart-shaped biscuits (palmiers) 250 iced coffee cream choux (religieuse au café) 124 Italian meringue (la meringue Italienne) 38 kirsch savarins with cherry compote (savarins au kirsch, compotée de cerises) 162 kugelhopf (kouglof) 152 lemon macaroons (macarons au citron) 230 lemon meringue pies (tartelettes meringuées au citron) 90 lemon soufflé (soufflé au citron) 188 macaroons, how to make 226 my grandmother’s pear clafoutis (clafoutis aux poires de mamie) 168 my mother’s crème caramel (crème caramel de ma maman) 182 my mother’s rhubarb tart (tarte à la rhubarbe de maman) 46 Nini’s sablés biscuits (sablés de Nini) 240 orange and Grand Marnier pancakes (crêpes suzette) 176 pains au chocolat, how to roll up 140 pains aux raisins, how to roll up 142 pancake mix, how to make a 174 Parisian brioches (brioches Parisiennes) 146 Parisian flan tart (flan Parisien) 54 pastry base, how to blind bake a 50 pear, chocolate and almond tart (tarte amandine au chocolat et aux poires) 72 pears, how to poach 70 pink praline brioche (brioche aux pralines roses) 148 praline choux cake (Paris-Brest) 132 praline Christmas log (bûche de noël au praliné) 196
praline paste, how to make a homemade 194 puff pastry (la pâte feuilletée) 12, 95–114 raspberry and white chocolate tart (tarte aux framboises et au chocolat blanc vanilla) 84 raspberry macaroons (macarons à la framboise) 228 roc sugar choux (chouquettes) 122 rolled biscuits (cigarettes russes) 244 rising doughs 135–64 rum baba with vanilla whipped cream (baba au rhum, crème fouettée à la vanille) 160 sablée pastry (la pâte sablée) 10, 79–94 Saint-Honoré choux cake (Saint-Honoré) 130 Saint-Tropez tart (tarte Tropézienne) 154 savarin dough (la pâte à savarin) 22 sour cherry and pistachio tartlets (tartelettes â la pistache et aux cerises griottes) 80 sponge cakes (les pâtes à biscuit) 192– 218 sponge fingers (biscuits à la cuillére) 248 strawberry and pistachio cream sponge (fraisier à la pistache) 202 strawberry tart (tarte aux fraises) 86 summer fruits puff tartlets (tartelettes feuilletées aux fruits d’été) 98 sweet pastry (la pâte sucrée) 8, 59–78 sweet shortcrust pastry (la pâte brisée sucrée) 6, 41–58 sweet treats (gourmandises) 219–53 tart tin, how to line a 42 Twelfth Night cake: almond pit pithivier (galette des rois) 102 vanilla and white chocolate mousse, how to make 82 vanilla millefeuille (mille-feuille à la vanille) 108 walnut tart (tarte aux noix) 76 warm chocolate tartlets (tartelettes coulantes tout chocolat) 88 West Indian flan (flan antillais) 170
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