PDF London PDF ebook Edition 10th Edition Release Date Feb 2016 Pages 448 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.
4 How to Use This Book easy-to-use Top Sights features provide in-depth sections coverage of the city’s very best sights. Plan Your Trip TOWER OF LONDON Your planning tool kit Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: Photos, lists and suggestions to help you create your perfect trip. 1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT 5 EATING 7 SHOPPING Explore 6 DRINKING & 2 SPORTS & Your complete city guide NIGHTLIFE ACTIVITIES Top Sights features, in-depth All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, reviews and local tips. starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that Understand we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Get more from your trip Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Learn about the big picture, so you range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. can make sense of the city. These symbols and abbreviations give vital Survival Guide information for each listing: Your at-a-glance reference Must-visit recommendation Vital practical information to help Sustainable or green recommendation you have a smooth trip. No payment required plus % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours j Tram full-colour p Parking d Train map section n Nonsmoking t Tube a Air-conditioning apt apartments 420 420 421 421 i Internet access d double rooms W Wi-fi access d m dorm beds e eKey on p446 0 0 500 m 500 m s Swimming pool q quad rooms A .# Key on p446 # 0 # 0 0.25 miles 0.25 miles v Vegetarian selection r rooms A .#B E ¥# E F ¥# H H E English-language menu s single rooms ij ij ij ij c Family-friendly ste suites ¥# High Holborn BC CD D FG G # Pet-friendly tr triple rooms g Bus tw twin rooms hg hgHolborn ¥# HiHghOHLBolOboRrNn Middlese See map See map Holborn p454 p454 HOLBORN See map See map See map WormwooSdepSe0tm00ap WorHmouwndosod St Middlese .# p000 p000 p000 ro Duke'shPl New Fet t er La Moorgate New Fet t er La N.#ewgate St Newgate St Old B x S HoundAslEdagsatte¥# x S 1 AlEdagsatte¥# 1 Farringdon StLinco1ln'sLincoln's Gre0000sh0000a0000m0000St 1 MaodoSrtgate Farringdon St Bishopsgate Chancery La Old B Chancery La a d St Kingsway Bishopsgate Gre0000sh0000a0000m0000St t t Kingsway Inn Fields Inn Fields ditc ditc ro Duke'shPBlrahamASldt¥#gate Braham St THE SOUTH BANK Aldgate THE THE SOUTH BANK THE SOUTH BANK S0000t0000Pa0000ul's ¥# CS0000t0000Pa0000ul's ¥# ¥# Fleet St £# Fleet St £# C Cheapside PoultryCheapsiBdaenk PouCltroyrnhill BanLkeadenChoarlnl Shitll Leadenhall St Fleet St City City COVENT COVENT Fleet St Thameslink Minories Minories SMaOnseUll GARDEN GARDEN Aldw yc h Mansell St Aldw yc h St£#¥#MCCHUaaIonp¥#TnuspnYsieooennr¥#TSht a.#mMeosLn¥#uoSmwt£#E¥#eeanrCsCtTtaIchTnhanYemoan¥#epSstTSotwGMeroerFLn¥#aSeuottnmwEceeahnrustTFtrecchnBhhacyeSSmh£#wttaueparscrThdSotwGSertTerF¥#oHaSewtitnlelcrhuFrecnBGhcTyaSSDh£#o£#twtteuwLawrRecrarhdyPrSetsTc¥#oHowiltel Sr t Thameslink Mansion Queen St Queen St St House GraceScthurch T GraceScthurch St ¥# H 22 Queen Victoria St Queen Victoria St 2 Prescot 2 Upper Tha.#mes Victoria ETme¥#mbapnlekmenVticBtloarcikafrEiamrsba¥£##nkmWehnitteBlLaicoknfriars Hill ¥# BANK£# Hill£# Tower Gateway The Strand The StrTaen¥#md ple W hite Li o n DLR River Thames Blackfriars Blackfriars #æ 18 0000000000T0000000000Loo0000000000wned0000000000ro0000000000onf0000000000 0000000000T0000000000Loo0000000000wned0000000000ro0000000000onf30000000000 RiBvreirdgTehames Bridge #æ 18 Bankside Pier; Bankside Pier; MWBWrHi6Delf#i#alSLduesP0uteBpogtnn3ieemne0ernngrö#rim0gldeidioun0â#erâ#gaooELm#æsfpoeontoy2en9ren1dr7do58n#þ5#ýW4375#æB5aþ##ýMrBWt32WiedrHi365Delf#ri#galSLdWul2esP0uote5#ýeBp#áog1tnn3eieoemne050esrnngrö#trim0gldeimdi1oun0â#e9râ#gaÿ#ooiLEm#æsfnpoe#üo#æntoyWs#ý26en94rten1ader9#ü£#57t4dre3LB9o5rUo8rl8nwoipdþ#o6epÿ#5#ýgWre87#æe¥#MBr5a#þ#ýR.#rGat32513iredrLd2s3950oSrhag0000000Wl2u#æt#mo#úe5#ýT#áa1neo00000000h5mWbsd2#æetefmh1e1WEot#ý9idÿ#a#ûhitra4ntds#üS#æ£#tWlsNT#ý1te65te4Sthsoaer91R#ü£#5t5eelrt4rooyte43LB9ChoruU3So#ý8rluBpwo7itpdteo6eOpÿ##û2grle#ú8l5eR¥#MrSOR.#Gat153rrLdU2sS90oSha0000000oGu#æt#m#úTaunH0000000hmW2bdt¥##ú2#æehe7fhe1WEwot#ýida#ûhtraa4tdsS£#rtlNT1tek5teShsor1Rt5eelrWBooyt4Choou3eS#ýSuBpr7btotOeOb#û2ul#úelU5RMgSrSTOhStoSoH#úU3hStduTRW2oGtaeahudkrtHAUw2t¥##úneehRn7aâ#swiKrpoak7rneGSk6ÿ#aSltÿ6#2oWrBTt4ebaoe'teSsrbeoâ#ObSBueUtMgo5rSf#ThaSSooHt#úTBPB3htduTaRW2taeahdkrtAUwneeRnaâ#siKropk7neGS6ÿ#aSltÿ6#2orTt4eba'teseâ#SBto5f#atTBPBa SBoriudtghewarkBPaoiaetanertkside Southwark Baatnekside Bridge London London Poieart Bridge Bridge 3 hg gh 3 4 D D5 Blackfriars Rd Hatfields St SuffGorlekatSt Park St Anü#g4ÿ#û#ú#e444lû#6ÿ#2P377l6æ#1S6æ#t6û#6oP13naÜ#W3MBerBSiky9nCoØ#aocoSSrarrhttu¥#ook6teâ#Wutuhæ#sSe1ghatgetneh2lwk1dhro062awrA2arnü#sæ#klg4ÿ#fû#¥#ú#iee444lû#6lÿ#2P3d7£#L7Bl6æ#s1oS6ræn#6tû#i61ddTf#3gÜ#oh3MBenSoCBL9CoØ#amooTriratrinoauydok6tâ#dsogtuhPæ#Se1olheSege4itnn2ewyt21dh8or0629awrû#S2aú#rstæ#klf¥#æ#ieâ#ú#ld1£#LB4s1oS2r1nti800000000ddTf#goh00000000enoCBL00000000mo8TritinWoaydæ#00000000CdsogPPiuollaeSe4ilrneriyt2taS8kriD9tmsû#rSuú#tiQdæ#uTâ#Sú#eo1teo41nl21eE8y00000000SlGSizh00000000BTtaaabior00000000nde8iwdstWThæ#f00000000geCohPSreiuralatdlmrritaSSkiDetmstsruiQdâ#uTSe1ot0eonleEy4SlGSizhBTtaaabiorndeiwdstThfgeohSreratdmSets 4 For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Park Stoney St Borough High St Blackfriars Rd Borough High St HatfieldsCoSrtnwall Rd SuffGorlekatSt Winchester Park Walk Cornwall Rd ¥# Borough Bermondsey St Fair â#10 Fair Belvedere Rd Belvedere Rd York Rd Blackfriars RdSouthwark Bridge Rd Southwark Bridge Rd Weston St Weston St York Rd BlackfriWarasteRrlodo Rd Bermondsey Baylis Rd Waterloo Rd Baylis Rd Tower Bridge Rd Tower Bridge Rd Long La Lo5n26g4#þLâa#St M526a34#þl4tâ#b3ú#y54û#æ#û#4û#64û#2 35û#54û#6 5 Tabard St 34ú# Tabard St RoMthaerlhtibthye4æ#û# 42 Rotherhithe û# û# (1km) ú#33BERMONMDSatSrrEkeYeett û#Str(1ekemt) 40 36 BERMONDSEY 33 40 Maltby St Great DHoavreprerSRt d Maltby Stú# M36arket Newington Causeway Newington Causeway m Abbey St m Great Dover St Carlisle La Carlisle La Harper Rd ÿ#65 ÿ#D6ec5i a St 63 ÿ# Deci Aa Sbtb6e3y5ÿ#S5tþ# Lambeth Pal Rd þ# 31 Rd Rd Falmouth Falmouth 55 Grangú#e Rd LambethHePrcalulesRRdd Rd Hercules Rd London ace ace 31 Rd ú# 6 Archbis6hop's Archbishop's London GraSnpgae Rd 6 Spa Rd 6 Park PLaarmk beth Rd LambethSRtdGeorge's Rd S¥#t George's Rd Rd ¥# PageLseroWykSt sc ot Rd sc ot Rd Elephant Elephant Al Al LAMBETH LAMBETH Kennington Rd Brook DrOswin St & Castle Oswin St & Castle New Kent Rd New Kent Rd PageLseroWykSt Lambeth Brook Dr ¥# ¥# Heygate St HeygCatheaSthtam St Bridge Hampton St 7 Lambeth Newport St Newington Butts Newington Butts Old Kent RdChatham StMandelaWillowWkMandela Willow Wk Dunton Rd Bridge Newport St Way Dunton Rd Way 7 7 7 Hampton St Old Kent Rd Kennington Rd Balfour S t ijSee map ijSee map Rodney Pl p000 p000 Balfour S t Rodney Pl A AB BC CD D CaEr Park .# CaEr ParkF.# FG GH H
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd London “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PL ANET THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Peter Dragicevich, Steve Fallon, Emilie Filou, Damian Harper
Contents PPllaannYYoouurrTTrriipp page 1 4 Welcome to London......... 4 If You Like........................26 Eating............................ 44 London’s Top 16............... 6 Month by Month.............29 Drinking & Nightlife....52 What’s New......................17 With Kids.........................33 Entertainment............. 56 Need to Know................. 18 Like a Local.....................36 Shopping........................ 61 First Time London..........20 For Free...........................38 Sports & Activities..... 65 Getting Around...............22 Gay & Lesbian.............. 68 Top Itineraries................24 Museums & Galleries........................ 40 Explore London 70 Neighbourhoods Clerkenwell, Shoreditch Greenwich & at a Glance.....................72 & Spitalfields................196 South London.............. 268 The West End.................. 76 East London.................. 213 Richmond, Kew The City......................... 134 Camden & & Hampton Court........ 288 The South Bank............ 156 North London.............. 230 Kensington & Notting Hill & Day Trips from Hyde Park.......................174 West London.................255 London......................... 303 Sleeping.......................318 Understand London 335 London Today.............. 336 Literary London............ 361 The Music Scene..........372 History.......................... 338 Theatre & Dance......... 365 Film & Media.................375 Architecture................. 356 Art & Fashion............... 368 Survival Guide 379 Transport..................... 380 Directory A–Z...............387 Index............................. 395 London Maps 403
LATITUDESTOCK - DAVID WILLIAMS / GETTY IMAGES © WIBOWO RUSLI / GETTY IMAGES © (left) Changing of the PAWEL LIBERA / GETTY IMAGES © Guard p86 A must-see attraction. (above) Leadenhall Market p147 Take a step back in time. (right) Big Ben p87 A London icon at the Houses of Parliament. Camden & East London North London p213 p230 Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Notting Hill Spitalfields & West London p196 p255 The West The City End p134 p76 The South Kensington Bank & Hyde Park p156 p174 Richmond, Kew Greenwich & Hampton Court & South London p288 p268
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to London One of the world’s most visited cities, London has something for everyone: from history and culture to fine food and good times. Time Travel Ethnic Diversity London is immersed in history, with more This city is very multicultural, with a third than its share of mind-blowing antiquity. of all Londoners foreign born, represent- London’s buildings are eye-catching mile- ing 270 different nationalities. What unites stones in the city’s unique and compelling them and visitors alike is the English biography, and a great many of them – the language, for this is both our tongue’s Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, Big birthplace and its epicentre. These cultures Ben – are instantly familiar landmarks. season the culinary aromas on London’s There’s more than enough innovation (the streets, the often exotic clothing people Shard, the London Eye, the planned Garden wear and the music they listen to. London’s Bridge) to put a crackle in the air, but it diverse cultural dynamism makes it among never drowns out London’s well-preserved, the world’s most international cities. And centuries-old narrative. Architectural gran- diversity reaches intrinsically British deur rises all around you in the West End, institutions too; the British and Victoria & ancient remains dot the City and charming Albert Museums have collections as varied pubs punctuate the banks of the Thames. as they are magnificent, while flavours at Take your pick. centuries-old Borough Market now run the full gourmet and cosmopolitan spectrum. Art & Culture A Tale of Two Cities A tireless innovator of art and culture, Lon- don is a city of ideas and the imagination. London is as much about wide-open spaces Londoners have always been fiercely inde- and leafy escapes as it is high-density, pendent thinkers (and critics), but until not sight-packed exploration. Central London so long ago people were suspicious of any- is where you will find the major museums, thing they considered avant-garde. That’s galleries and most iconic sights, but visit all in the past now, and the city’s creative Hampstead Heath or the new Queen Eliza- milieu is streaked with left-field attitude, beth Olympic Park to escape the crowds from theatrical innovation to contemporary and view the city’s greener hues up close. Or art, pioneering music, writing and design. venture even further out to Kew Gardens, Food in all its permutations has become Richmond or Hampton Court Palace for almost an obsession in certain circles. excellent panoramas of riverside London.
LAURIE NOBLE / GETTY IMAGES © Why I Love London By Steve Fallon, Author Like most Londoners, I revel in all our familiar landmarks – Big Ben, Tower Bridge, the murky Thames, the London Eye. I still thank the former government that made some of the greatest museums and art galleries in the world free to one and all. The choice of restaurants, bars and clubs is legion, and what’s not to love about a city with more lush parkland than any other world capital? But the one thing that sets my adopted city apart from any other is its amaz- ing tolerance. ‘As long as you don’t scare the horses, mate, you’ll be all right here,’ I was told when I arrived here more than 20 years ago. Guess what? It still hasn’t happened. For more about our authors, see p448. Top: Tower Bridge (p145) and the Shard (p164)
6 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd London’s Top 16
7 British Museum (p81) National Gallery (p89) 1 With six million visitors trooping 2 This superlative collection of (largely through its doors annually, the Brit- pre-modern) art at the heart of Lon- ish Museum in Bloomsbury is Britain’s don is one of the largest anywhere, and most visited attraction. You could spend a roll-call of some of the world’s most a lifetime in this vast and hallowed collec- outstanding artistic compositions. With tion of artefacts, art and age-old antiquity, highlights including work from Leonardo and still make daily discoveries (admission da Vinci, Michelangelo, Gainsborough, is free, so you could do just that, if so in- Constable, Turner, Monet, Renoir and Van clined). Otherwise, join everyone else on Gogh, it’s a bravura performance and one the highlights tours (or eyeOpener tours) not to be missed. The onsite restaurants for a précis of the museum’s treasures. and cafes are also exceptional, rounding out a terrific experience and putting the 1The West End icing on an already eye-catching cake. 1The West End KIMBERLEY COOLE / GETTY IMAGES © CHRIS HEPBURN / GETTY IMAGES ©
BUENA VISTA IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © JUSTIN LIGHTLEY / GETTY IMAGES © 8 PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 16
9 PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 16 COPYRIGHT ARTEM VOROBIEV / GETTY IMAGES © London Pubs (p52) Tate Modern (p158) Tower of London 3 London minus its pubs 4 The favourite of Lon- (p136) would be like Paris doners (and quite sans cafes or Beijing shorn possibly the world), this 5 Few parts of the UK of its charming hutong. Pub contemporary art collec- are as steeped in his- culture is an indispensable tion enjoys a triumphant tory or as impregnated with element of London DNA position right on the River legend and superstition as and the pub is the place Thames. Housed in the the titanic stonework of this to be if you want to see former Bankside Power fabulous fortress. Not only local people in their hop- Station, the Tate Modern is the tower an architec- scented element. Longer is a vigorous statement of tural odyssey but there’s hours for many pubs have modernity, architectural also a diamond almost as only cemented them as renewal and accessibility. big as the Ritz, free tours the cornerstone for a good The permanent collection from magnificently attired night out across the capital. is free and the gallery’s ‘Beefeaters’, a dazzling They’re also a favourite much-anticipated exten- array of armour and weap- for family-friendly long sion, scheduled to open in onry, and a palpable sense weekend lunches. Once 2016, will give it more space of ancient history at every no-go zones for discern- to display its treasures. turn. Because there is sim- ing foodies, pubs long ago New exhibition spaces will ply so much to see, it’s well upped their game: standout push the conceptual enve- worth getting here early as gastropubs dot London’s lope too with installation you will need at least half a culinary cosmos and rival and performance art. day of exploration. great restaurants. 1The South Bank 1The City 6Drinking & Nightlife
10 Culinary London (p44) Camden Town (p240) 6 Don’t let anybody tell you that the 7 A foray into trendy North London, food in England isn’t good: London away from the central sights, is a has long been a shining light in culinary crucial part of the London experience. excellence, with a kaleidoscope of cuisines Camden’s market – actually four markets unrivalled in Europe. The capital is particu- in one great melange – may be a hectic larly strong in Indian and other Asian food and tourist-oriented attraction, but snack- (such as Chinese, Japanese and Thai), but ing on the go from the international food don’t miss the opportunity of trying tradi- stalls is a great way to enjoy browsing tional or Modern British cuisine, either in the merchandise, while Camden’s terrific a good gastropub or the finer restaurants. dining scene, throbbing nightlife and well- For those with a sweet tooth, an afternoon seasoned pub culture is well known to tea or a treat from the capital’s many cake night owls citywide. CAMDEN MARKET shops is a must. 7Camden & North London 5Eating SUSANNAH V. VERGAU / PHOTOS4DREAMS / GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 16
WALTER BIBIKOW / GETTY IMAGES © 11PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 16 VISITBRITAIN / BRITAIN ON VIEW / GETTY IMAGES © Victoria & Albert Museum (p176) 8 You could spend a whole day in this huge museum and still be astounded at its variety and depth. Located in stylish South Kensington, the world’s leading collec- tion of decorative arts has something for everyone, from Islamic textiles to antique Chi- nese ceramics, photography, fashion, works by Raphael and modern design classics from iMacs to Nike shoes. And don’t overlook the fabulous architecture of the museum, a major attraction in itself. 1Kensington & Hyde Park
12 DOUG ARMAND / GETTY IMAGES ©Hampton CourtWest EndHyde Park & Palace (p290) Performances (p56) Kensington PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 16 Gardens (p182) 9 It may not be a royal 10 The West End is syn- residence any more but onymous with musi- 11 London’s urban Hampton Court hasn’t lost cals and no trip to London parkland is virtually any of its splendour – inside would be complete without second to none and is the or out. The magnificent an evening of Mama Mia!, place to see locals at ease Tudor palace, so coveted by Les Misérables or Phantom and in their element. Hyde Henry VIII that he coaxed of the Opera. If musicals Park alone ranges across a it out of Cardinal Thomas don’t float your boat, there mighty 142 hectares; throw Wolsey in 1515, was ex- are more alternatives than in Kensington Gardens and tended in the 17th century you’ll have evenings to you have even more space by Christopher Wren, and fill: theatre, dance, opera, to roam and everything you visitors will be able to de- small gigs, big-ticket con- could want: a central Lon- light in the different archi- certs or live jazz. London don setting, a royal palace, tectural styles in the various truly is the capital of the extravagant Victoriana, ‘apartments’. Don’t miss the arts. The trick is to book boating opportunities, Tudor kitchens, which once either far in advance if you open-air concerts, an art churned out meals for up have a particular show in gallery, magnificent trees to 1200 people for Henry’s mind or last minute for and a tasteful granite me- court, and make sure you bargains. QUEEN’S THEATRE morial to Princess Diana. leave plenty of time for the sumptuous gardens – you 3Entertainment HYDE PARK might get lost in the maze... 1Kensington & Hyde 1Richmond, Kew & Park Hampton Court
13 PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 16 BIKEWORLDTRAVEL / SHUTTERSTOCK © JON ARNOLD / GETTY IMAGES ©
14 PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 16 SYLVAIN SONNET / GETTY IMAGES © London Eye (p161) 12 You may have eyed up London from altitude as you descended into Heath- row, but your pilot won’t have lingered over the supreme views of town that extend in every direction from London’s great riverside Ferris wheel. The queues move as slowly as the Eye rotates (there are ways to fast-track your way on), but that makes the occasion even more rewarding once you’ve lifted off and London unfurls beneath you. Avoiding grey days is the top tip – but with London’s notoriously overcast skies, that might be a tall order. If you’ve only a few days in the capital, make this your first stop and you can at least say you’ve seen the sights. LONDON EYE DESIGNED BY DAVID MARKS AND JULIA BARFIELD 1The South Bank SIMON GREENWOOD / GETTY IMAGES ©
15 PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 16 HANS NELEMAN / GETTY IMAGES © Notting Hill Carnival (p257) Westminster Abbey (p78) 13 Every August, trendy Notting Hill 14 Adorers of medieval ecclesiastic throws a big, long and loud party. architecture will be in seventh Europe’s leading street festival is a vi- heaven at this sublime abbey, hallowed brantly colourful three-day celebration of place of coronation for England’s sover- Afro-Caribbean music, culture and food. eigns. Almost every nook and adorable Over a million people visit every year, cranny has a story attached to it but few taking part in the celebrations, thronging sights in London are as beautiful, or as the streets and letting their hair down. well preserved, as the Henry VII chapel. The festival is a must if you want a spirited Elsewhere you will find the oldest door glimpse of multicultural London and its in the UK, Poet’s Corner, the Coronation cross-pollination of music, food, clothing, Chair, 14th-century cloisters, a 900-year- language and culture. old garden, royal sarcophagi and much more. Be warned that the crowds are zNotting Hill & West London almost as solid as the abbey’s unshake- able stonework, so aim to join the queue first thing in the morning. 1The West End
PLAN YOUR TRIP London’s Top 1616 DIVERSE IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © East End Nightlife (p225) FEARGUS COONEY / GETTY IMAGES © 15 While you can party pretty much anywhere in London, the East End has had the edge over everywhere else for a few years now. There are grungy clubs, roof- top bars carpeted with astroturf, retro-chic Victorian pubs, 500-year old pubs, a lively gay and lesbian scene, and bars of every description. And you won’t have to party on an empty stomach: the food offering is as diverse as the area’s population, from curry houses to modern British cuisine and cafes serving the finest coffees. 6East London Natural History Museum (p180) 16 With its thunderous, animatronic Tyrannosaurus Rex, fascinating displays about Planet Earth, outstanding Darwin Centre and architecture straight from a Gothic fairy tale, the Natural History Museum is quite simply a work of great curatorial imagina- tion. Kids are the target audience but, looking around, you’ll see adults equally mesmer- ised. Winter brings its own magic, when the glittering ice rink by the east lawn swarms with skaters. 1Kensington & Hyde Park
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 17 What’s New PLAN YOUR TRIP Round-the-Clock Tube First World War Galleries We didn’t think we’d live to see the day, but To mark the centenary of the start of WWI, 24-hour service at the weekend (only) has the Imperial War Museum opened what is begun on five of London Underground’s arguably the finest new permanent exhibi- nine lines, with night-time departures tion in a London museum. (p275) averaging every 10 minutes. (p383) More Room at the British Museum Underground Spreads South A long-awaited £135 million new extension As if that wasn’t enough good news, the called the World Conservation and Exhi- Northern line is being extended and gain- bitions Centre has opened at the august ing two stations in Battersea by 2020, with institution. (p81) a southern extension of the Bakerloo line under discussion. (p277) All Change in Trafalgar Square Katharina Fritsch’s Hahn/Cock, a huge, Tasteful Views from on High cobalt-blue sculpture of a rooster, has Two of the new additions to the London made way on the Fourth Plinth for Hans skyline – the Shard (p164) and the Walkie Haacke’s Gift Horse, a skeletal, riderless Talkie (p147) – now feature a number of equine with live stock exchange ticker. We restaurants and cafes from which to enjoy don’t know either. (p105) the city on high. Harry Potter Pilgrims Garden Bridge Oasis Warner Bros Studios (p237) near Wat- A bridge covering 2500 sq metres of gar- ford in north London has become the new den, including 270 trees and 2000 bushes, mecca for Harry Potter fans, with its tour will link the South Bank with Temple of the film sets and original Hogwarts Underground station and open to the pub- Express steam engine. lic around 2018. Sir John Soane’s Museum A New Park for London The 2nd floor of the building next door to The southern half of the 2012 Olympic site this wonderful museum, which contains has opened as Queen Elizabeth Olympic the architect’s private apartments and Park (p221), with the Aquatics Centre model room, has opened to the public for (p229) now available for swimming, the the first time ever. (p96) Velodrome for cycling and the Arcelor Mittal Orbit for abseiling. For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet. com/london
18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p379) Currency Daily Costs Advance Planning Pound sterling (£). 100 pence = Budget: Less than Three months before Book £1. £85 weekend performances of top shows; make dinner reserva- Language ¨¨Dorm bed: £10–32 tions for renowned restaurants ¨¨Market-stall lunch: £5, with celebrity chefs; snatch up English (and more than 300 supermarket sandwich tickets for must-see temporary others). £3.50–4.50 exhibitions; book accommoda- ¨¨Many museums: free tion at boutique properties. Visas ¨¨Standby theatre tickets: One month before Check £5–25 listings on entertainment sites Not required for US, Canadian, ¨¨Santander Cycles daily such as Time Out (p57) for Australian, New Zealand or South rental fee: £2 fringe theatre, live music and African visitors for stays of up festivals, and book tickets. to six months. European Union Midrange: £85–185 A few days before Check the nationals can stay indefinitely. weather on the Met Office ¨¨Double room: £90–160 (www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/ Money ¨¨Two-course dinner with weather/forecast) website. glass of wine: £35 ATMs are widespread. Major cred- ¨¨Theatre ticket: £15–60 Useful Websites it cards are accepted everywhere. The best place to change money Top End: More than Lonely Planet (www.lonely is in post office branches, which £185 planet.com/london) Bookings, do not charge a commission. traveller forum and more. ¨¨Four-star/boutique hotel Time Out London (www.time Mobile Phones room: £200 out.com/london) Up-to-date ¨¨Three-course dinner in top and comprehensive listings. Buy local SIM cards for European restaurant with wine: £60–90 Londonist (www.londonist.com) and Australian phones, or a pay- ¨¨Black cab trip: £30 A website about London and as-you-go phone. Set other ¨¨Top theatre ticket: £65 everything that happens in it. phones to international roaming. Transport for London (www.tfl. gov) Essential tool for staying Time mobile in the capital. BBC London (www.bbc.co.uk/ London is on GMT; during British news/england/london) All the Summer Time (BST; late March to news that’s fit to print. late October), London clocks are one hour ahead of GMT. Tourist Information Visit London (%0870 156 6366; www.visitlondon.com) can fill you in on everything from at- tractions and events to tours and accommodation.
19 WHEN TO GO °C/°F Temp MAM J Rainfall Inches/mm PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now 30/86 4.9/125 Summer is peak 3.9/100 season: days are 20/68 2.9/75 long and festivals 2/50 are afoot, but expect 10/50 1/25 crowds. Spring and 0 autumn are cooler, 0/32 but delightful. Win- JF J ASOND ter is cold but quiet. Arriving in Digital London Sleeping London There are scores of cool Hanging your hat (and Heathrow Airport Trains, apps for travellers. Here are anything else you care to London Underground (tube) some of our favourite free remove) in London can be and buses to central London ones – from inspirational painfully expensive, and from just after 5am to before to the downright practical. you’ll almost always need midnight (night buses run later) Many museums and attrac- to book your room well in £5.70 to 21.50; taxi £45 to 85. tions also have their own. advance. Decent, central Gatwick Airport Trains to ¨¨Streetmuseum Historical hostels are easy enough to central London from 4.30am to images (photographs, find and also offer reason- 1.35am £10 to 20; hourly buses paintings, drawings etc) ably priced double rooms. to central London around the superimposed on modern-day Bed and breakfasts are clock from £5; taxi £100. locations. a dependable and inex- Stansted Airport Trains to pensive, if rather simple, central London from 5.30am to ¨¨Street Art Tours London option. Hotels range from 1.30am £23.40; round-the-clock Hand-picked graffiti and other cheap, no-frills chains buses to central London from street-art locations. through boutique choices £12; taxi from £130. ¨¨Soho Stories Social history to luxury five-star historic Luton Airport Trains to central of London’s most Bohemian hotels. London from 7am to 10pm from neighbourhood, told through £14; round-the-clock buses to poems and extracts from Useful Websites central London £10; taxi £110. novels and newspapers. London City Airport DLR trains ¨¨Hailo Summons the nearest ¨¨Lonely Planet (www. to central London from 5.30am black cab right to the curb. lonelyplanet.com/london) to 12.30am Monday to Saturday, ¨¨Uber A taxi, private car Hundreds of properties, from 7am to 11.15pm Sunday from or rideshare at competitive budget hostels to luxury £2.80; taxi around £30. prices. apartments. St Pancras International Train ¨¨London Bus Live Real-time ¨¨London Town (www. Station In Central London (for route finder and bus arrivals for londontown.com) Excellent Eurostar train arrivals from a stop of your choice. last-minute offers on boutique Europe) and connected by many ¨¨Santander Cycles Find a hotels and B&Bs. underground lines to other parts ‘Boris Bike’, a route and a place ¨¨Alastair Sawdays (www. of the city. to return it. sawdays.co.uk) Hand-picked ¨¨ToiletFinder Where to find selection of boltholes in the For much more on one when you need it most. capital. arrival see p380 ¨¨Visit London (www. visitlondon.com) Huge range of listings from the city’s official tourism portal. For much more on sleeping see p318
20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd First Time London For more information, see Survival Guide (p379) Checklist Top Tips for Your Trip ¨¨Make sure your passport ¨¨London is huge – work by neighbourhood to avoid wasting time is valid for at least six months (and money) on transport. past your arrival date ¨¨An Oyster Card is a cheaper and convenient way to use public ¨¨Check airline baggage transport, but you can also pay by credit or debit card provided it restrictions (liquids and fresh has a contactless function indicated by a symbol of four wavy lines. products in particular) ¨¨Walk – it’s cheaper than transport and the best way to discover ¨¨Arrange travel insurance central London. and, if you’re from the EU, a ¨¨For West End performances at bargain prices, opt for standby European Health Insurance tickets (which you buy on the day at the venue) or last-minute ticket- Card booth tickets on Leicester Sq. ¨¨Inform your debit/credit ¨¨To treat yourself to fine dining without breaking the bank, opt for card company of your travel lunch rather than dinner, or try for pre- or post-theatre dinner deals. plans ¨¨Book tickets for popular What to Wear plays, shows or festivals to avoid disappointment Fashion is big in London but very eclectic so you’re unlikely to stand out, whatever your sartorial choice. What to Pack Dress codes are rare (although you’ll need smart shoes for ¨¨An umbrella (yes, the some restaurants and clubs), but many Londoners make an rumours about the weather effort in the evening, whether they’re kitted out in cool T- are true) shirts or more formal gear. ¨¨Good walking shoes – the city is best explored on foot The weather has a mind of its own, regardless of the ¨¨UK plug adaptor season: always carry an umbrella or a jacket that can repel ¨¨A few extra layers – it can a shower or two. And do wrap up warm in winter, the wind be cool, even in summer can be punishing. ¨¨A small day pack Be Forewarned ¨¨London is open for business every day of the year, except Christmas Day (25 December) when absolutely everything shuts down, including the transport network. Hotel restaurants are about the only thing you’ll find open. ¨¨Most shops in central London are open seven days a week, though they can only trade for six hours (usually noon to 6pm) on Sunday. ¨¨London is a relatively safe city, though common sense applies: avoid deserted streets at night and be mindful of pickpockets in crowded areas or even at outdoor cafes. ¨¨Be discreet with your tablet/smartphone – snatching happens. ¨¨Always use black cabs or licensed minicabs.
21 Money PL A N YO U R TRI P F irst T ime L ondon ATMs are widespread. WIBOWO RUSLI / GETTY IMAGES © Major credit cards are ac- cepted everywhere. The best place to change money is in post office branches, which do not charge a commission. Taxes & Refunds Market stalls at Covent Garden Piazza (p104) Value-added tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax levied on most goods and services. Restaurants must always include VAT in their prices, but the same requirement does not apply to hotel room prices, so double- check when booking. It’s sometimes possible for visitors to claim a re- fund of VAT paid on goods (p390). Tipping Etiquette ¨¨Hotels Pay a porter £1 per Although largely informal in their everyday dealings, Lon- bag; gratuity for room staff is doners do observe some (unspoken) rules of etiquette. at your discretion. ¨¨Strangers Most Londoners would no more speak to a stranger in ¨¨Pubs Not expected unless the street than fly to the moon. If you’re a tourist in need of directions, table service is provided, then there’s no problem. But try starting a general conversation at a bus £1 for a round of drinks is stop or on a tube platform and people will react as if you were mad. sufficient. ¨¨Restaurants Service charge ¨¨Queues The English are happy to break many rules they often included in the bill. If not, consider silly but lining up is not one of them. Any attempt to 10% for decent service, up to ‘jump the queue’ will result in an outburst of tutting. 15% if exceptional. ¨¨Taxis Round fare up to ¨¨Tube An unbreakable rule involves where to stand (on the right) nearest pound only. and where to pass (on the left) while riding an Underground escalator. ¨¨Bargaining Haggling over the price of goods (but not food) is okay in markets, but nonexistent in shops. Staying Connected Smartphone users can turn their expensive data-roaming off: there are numerous ways to get online for free in Lon- don (outside your hotel or hostel): ¨¨Chains such as Pret a Manger, McDonalds or Starbucks and most cafes all have free wi-fi. ¨¨The City of London is one giant hotspot as is Upper St in Islington. ¨¨Public buildings such as the Barbican, the Southbank Centre and the British Library all offer free wi-fi. ¨¨Wi-fi is also available in some Overground stations (free) and some Underground stations (fees may apply). ¨¨Check out Time Out’s useful free wi-fi guide map (www.timeout. com/london/things-to-do/where-to-find-free-wi-fi-in-london-9).
22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Getting Around For more information, see Transport (p380) Underground (Tube) Key Phrases Key Routes The quickest (but most expen- Black Cab London’s signature Bus: Route 15 This ‘heritage’ sive) form of public transport; clunky taxi, which can be hailed bus route uses the classic Lon- trains run from 5.30am to anywhere in the city. Note that don Routemaster double-decker 12.30am (7am to 11.30pm Sun- despite the name, they are not buses and takes in the Tower of day). Selected lines run all night all black! London, St Paul’s, the Strand Friday and Saturday. Boris Bike A colloquialism for and Trafalgar Sq. the red Santander-branded Bus: Route RV1 Links all the Bus bikes for hire all over London. sights along the South Bank with Named after mayor Boris Covent Garden across the river. Slow-going but cheap, with ace Johnson (who served between DLR: Bank to Greenwich Bag views from double-deckers. Large 2008 and 2016), although the the seats at the front of this number of night buses. initiative was set in motion by driverless, overground train for previous mayor Ken Livingstone. an amazing sightseeing trip Bicycle Contactless Payment card through the Docklands and (debit or credit) that can be Canary Wharf. Santander Cycles are the ideal way used to make quick payments Tube: Piccadilly Line This tube to get around central London on a without signature or chip and line stops at some of London’s dry day. Cheap, fast and scenic. pin; used in the same way as an key sights and neighbour- Oyster Card. hoods – Piccadilly Circus, Walking DLR Docklands Light Railway, an Covent Garden, Hyde Park and overground, driverless train in Knightsbridge. Free, healthy and immersive, you East London, almost as frequent can’t beat it for neighbourhood as the tube. How to Hail a Taxi exploration. Minicab A taxi that cannot be hailed in the street and must ¨¨To hail a black cab, look for a Overground be pre-booked over the phone, stationary or approaching cab in person with the dispatcher with its ‘For Hire’ sign lit up. Runs all the way around London (offices can generally be spotted ¨¨If the car is approaching, across Zones 2 and 3. Similar op- by an orange flashing light out- stand in a prominent place on erating hours to the Underground side) or, increasingly, through the side of the road and stick but less frequent trains (every apps such as Uber. out your arm. five to 20 minutes). Oyster Card Smart card ticket ¨¨Alternatively, find them for London’s transport network. at the numerous taxi ranks Taxi The Tube London’s under- dotting the city (at stations, ground metro system. airports, outside big hotels Available everywhere and round- etc). the-clock. Hail in the street (black ¨¨Use a smartphone app cabs) or book ahead (minicabs). such as Hailo, which uses your phone’s GPS to find the nearest Train available black cab. Best to get to/from the airport, go to Hampton Court or on day trips to places further afield, such as Oxford or Windsor.
23 TOP TIPS tube stations for planned ¨¨Santander Cycles are PL A N YO U R TRI P G etting A round engineering works and line good for short trips – you ¨¨As a general rule, eschew closures at weekends. pay £2 for the day and can the tube within Zone 1 ¨¨Get an Oyster Card – and cycle for up to 30 minutes unless going from one return it when you leave to for free, as many times end to the other: cycling, get the £5 deposit back, as you like. Just leave five walking or the bus will be along with any remaining minutes between each cheaper/quicker. credit. rental. ¨¨Check www.tfl.gov. uk or advanced notices in When to Travel Travel Etiquette Tickets & Passes ¨¨Travelling during rush hour ¨¨Have your ticket or card ¨¨The cheapest and most (6.30am to 9.30am and 4pm ready before you go through convenient way to pay for to 7pm) can be uncomfortably the gate. Londoners are well- public transport is to buy an crowded: think stealthy seat practiced at moving through Oyster Card, a smart card on races, face-in-armpit standing ticket barriers without breaking which you can store credit. and toe-treading. Tube fares stride. The card works on the entire are also more expensive at rush ¨¨On escalators, stand on the transport network and can be hour and tempers easily fray. right-hand side and use the purchased from all tube and ¨¨Weekends are notorious for left if you want to walk down. train stations and some shops. engineering works, when entire Failure to observe this can ¨¨Oyster Cards will work out tube lines or sections of lines cause consternation among whether to charge you per shut down. Replacement bus other users, especially during journey, for a return or for a day services are usually in place, rush hour. travelcard. but they often take longer ¨¨Take your rucksack off at ¨¨You need to pay a £5 deposit so try to plan around these rush hour to avoid sweeping off per Oyster Card, which you will restrictions. somebody’s newspaper, tablet get back when you return the ¨¨On weeknights, the tube or child. card, along with any remaining stops running around 12.30am; ¨¨Give up your seat for people credit. selected lines run all night less able to stand than you – ¨¨If you’re staying for more Friday and Saturday night. people with reduced mobility than just a few days, consider Night buses cover all corners have priority over the seats getting a weekly or monthly of London, but note that some closest to the doors on the pass (which can be loaded on services only run every half- tube. the Oyster card). hour, so check times before ¨¨Cars will usually stop for ¨¨Paper tickets are still leaving lest you fancy hanging pedestrians at zebra crossings available but are more around at a bus stop at 3am. without a traffic light; expensive than Oyster fares. remember to look right first, ¨¨Contactless cards can be however! used instead of Oyster Cards (they benefit from the same ‘smart fare’ system); just check for international fees with your card issuer. For much more on getting around see p382
24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Top Itineraries Day One Day Two The West End (p76) The City (p134) M First stop, Trafalgar Sq for its ar- M London’s finance-driven Square Mile chitectural grandeur and photo-op is home to the Tower of London. views down Whitehall and of Big Ben. Art Spend the morning following the Beef lovers will make an instant break for the eaters and marvelling at the Crown Jew National Gallery and its unrivalled collec- els. When you’re finished, take a minute tion of European paintings. Alternatively, if to admire the iconic Tower Bridge on the you’re here during Buckingham Palace’s Thames. summer opening, visit the royal residence. Lunch Wine Library (p153) for good Lunch Inn the Park (p111) for the wine and platters. leafy surroundings of St James’s Park. The West End (p76) The South Bank (p156) R Hop on a double-decker bus for city R With your pre-booked ticket for the views and head to the British Mu London Eye, walk across the pedes- seum for a shot of world culture. Choose one trian Hungerford Bridge to the South Bank of the excellent introductory tours so as not and enjoy a revolution in the city skies and to feel overwhelmed. Round off the after- unrivalled views, notably of the Houses of noon with a recuperative pint at a local pub. Parliament. Afterwards, sashay along the river and head down the ramp into the bow- Dinner Yauatcha (p115) for excellent els of the Tate Modern for some grade-A Chinese food in the heart of Soho. art. Aim your camera at St Paul’s Cathe dral on the far side of the elegant Millen The West End (p76) nium Bridge. N There are literally dozens of pubs, Dinner Elaborate Italian at Zucca bars and cocktail bars to choose (p169). from. If you fancy soaking up the atmos- phere, stroll through Chinatown and Soho The South Bank (p156) and make your way to Leicester Sq for some people watching. N Depending what mood you’re in, you could watch a performance at Shakespeare’s Globe. Standing tickets can be bought last minute (but book in advance for seats). Otherwise, join the post-work crowds in the pubs around London Bridge for real ales and historical surroundings.
25 Day Three Day Four PL A N YO U R TRI P T o p I ti n e r a r ies Greenwich & South London (p268) Kew, Richmond & Hampton Court (p288) M Hop on a boat in central London and make your way down to Greenwich M Head to Kew Gardens bright and with its world-renowned architecture. Start early to make the most of the morn- your visit at the legendary Cutty Sark, a ing: this is so much more than a botani- star clipper during the tea-trade years. cal garden! Families shouldn’t miss the treetop walkway, while plant lovers will go Lunch Greenwich Market (p280) for a weak at the knees in the Palm House and culinary tour of world cuisine. Conservatory. Greenwich & South London (p268) Lunch Glasshouse (p301) for fine gastronomy. R Stroll through Greenwich Park all the way up to the Royal Observa Kensington & Hyde Park (p174 tory. The views of Canary Wharf, the business district across the river, are stun- R Hop on the tube to Kensington. ning. Inside the Observatory, straddle the Keen shoppers will want to stroll Greenwich Meridian and find out about along Old Brompton Rd and pop into the incredible quest to solve the longitude Harrods, the famous department store. problem. At the planetarium, join anoth- Culture vultures should save their energy er quest: finding extra-terrestrial life. Walk Dinner Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Dinner St John (p202) for high-brow, (p191) for theatrical English cuisine. nose-to-tail British cuisine back down to Greenwich and settle down for the Victoria & Albert Museum or the for a pint at the Trafalgar Tavern. Natural History Museum. Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Notting Hill & West London Spitalfields (p196) (p255) N Head back to central London on N If the pubs around Kensington are the DLR from Greenwich and treat too staid for you, hop over to Not yourself to dinner in one of the fine restau- ting Hill where the crowds are livelier and rants dotting this part of town. There are the nightlife more eclectic. If you just fancy plenty of clubs if you fancy a boogie after sitting down with a good film, you’re in dinner, otherwise opt for a beautifully luck: Notting Hill has some of the coolest crafted cocktail at Zetter Townhouse independent cinemas in London.
26 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd If You Like... Royalty Kensington Palace Princess View from the Shard The high- Diana’s former home, this stately est – and most expensive – views Tower of London Castle, tower, and stunning royal palace is the in London. (p164) prison, medieval execution site highlight of Kensington Gardens. Parliament Hill Skyscraping and home of the dazzling Crown (p187) views across London from Hamp- Jewels. (p136) Windsor Castle Magnificent and stead Heath. (p242) Buckingham Palace The Queen ancient royal fortress within easy Greenwich Park Clamber up Mother of all London’s royal pal- reach of London. (p304) to the statue of General Wolfe aces, with lovely gardens and – the for superlative views of Canary popular drawcard – the Changing Views Wharf, the Thames and the O2. of the Guard. (p85) (p271) Hampton Court Palace Magnifi- London Eye For gently rotating, Sky Pod Phenomenal views of cent Tudor palace, located within tip-top views of London – but London, a roof garden and not beautiful grounds on the Thames. choose a fair-weather day. a sight of the awkward Walkie (p290) (p161) Talkie, since you’re in it! (p153) DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES © National Gallery (p89) and St Martin-in-the-Fields (p106)
27 Madison For a full-frontal view Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park For more top London PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y ou L ike . . . of St Paul’s elegant dome in Another specialist in the wild spots, see the following: alfresco settings, you can’t beat and sublime Victorian ruin look. ¨¨Eating (p44) this cocktail bar. (p155) (p219) ¨¨Drinking & Nightlife (p52) ArcelorMittal Orbit Ideal for Kensal Green Cemetery ¨¨Entertainment (p56) a bird’s eye view of the Queen Distinctive Greek Revival archi- ¨¨Shopping (p61) Elizabeth Olympic Park. (p221) tecture and illustrious residents ¨¨Sports & Activities (p65) including Isambard Kingdom Parks & Gardens Brunel and Charles Babbage. Church recitals Take a pew at (p259) one of the many free afternoon Hampstead Heath Woods, church recitals around town. hills, meadows and top scenic Squares (p39) views, all rolled into one sublime Indie rock gigs Playing in one sprawl. (p242) Trafalgar Square London’s of North London’s numerous Richmond Park Europe’s iconic central square, lorded grungy bars is a rite of passage largest urban parkland has over by Lord Nelson – and four for aspiring acts. (p251) everything from herds of deer magnificent felines. (p94) Royal Opera House London’s to tranquil pockets of woodland, Soho Square Serene spot for a world-famous opera in Covent seemingly infinite wild tracts sandwich in the sun in the heart Garden is second to none and beautiful vistas. (p296) of the West End. (p103) for lavish opera productions. St James’s Park Feast on Trinity Square Gardens Pictur- (p124) some sublime views in one of esque and well-tended one-time London’s most attractive royal location of the notorious Tower Cultural Diversity parks. (p100) Hill scaffold. (p146) Kew Gardens A botanist’s para- Squares of Bloomsbury Chinatown At the heart of dise, a huge expanse of greenery Elegant, historic and tranquil London and the place to be for and a great day out with the squares dotted around literary dim sum dining or the Chinese kids. (p294) Bloomsbury. (p98) New Year. (p103) Chelsea Physic Garden A tran- Covent Garden Piazza Brick Lane Take a wander and a quil and particularly tidy botani- Fine-looking West End square gander and go shopping around cal enclave just a stone’s throw originally laid out in the 17th this vibrant neighbourhood, from the Thames. (p189) century, and now popular with shaped by migration over the Greenwich Park A delightful street performers. (p104) centuries. (p210) mix of views, expansive lawns, Leicester Square Unbeatable Brixton Village Great dining beautiful trees and home of the for people watching and celeb- and shopping converge in South Meridian. (p271) rity spotting on film premiere London’s most famous multicul- nights. (p105) tural neighbourhood. (p276) Cemeteries Whitechapel Road Lively, Music vibrant and cacophonous tangle Highgate Cemetery Gothic and of cultures and languages. sublimely overgrown 20-hectare Wireless Festival London’s (p215) Victorian place of the dead, big-ticket music festival (held in including Karl Marx. (p243) July), with an emphasis on R&B Rivers & Canals Abney Park Cemetery Tangled and dance. (p30) with weeds, reclaimed by Wigmore Hall One of the best Regent’s Canal Amble along nature, with moments of magic. and most active classical-music the historic trade route and take (p247) concert venues in the capital. a shortcut across North London Brompton Cemetery Some (p125) at the same time. (p246) of this cemetery’s dead found Royal Festival Hall Fantastic immortality in the names of acoustics and an excellent Beatrix Potter’s animal charac- programme of music across the ters. (p258) aural spectrum. (p171)
28 PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y ou L ike . . . Richmond Home to some spec- Regent’s Canal Take a canal- Modern tacular views of the Thames side hike across North London. Architecture with enchanting pastoral (p246) shade in Petersham Meadows. Putney to Barnes Amble along 30 St Mary Axe Colloquially (p296) the delightful riverside on this dubbed ‘the Gherkin’, this is Greenwich Pop into a riverside doable segment of the Thames the City’s most iconic modern pub and toast the fine views of Path. (p289) edifice. (p146) the river with a pint. (p284) The West End Jump on our Shard A crystalline spike domi- South Bank Hop on our South highlights tour from Covent nating the South Bank, with views Bank Stroll and walk from Garden to Trafalgar Sq. (p129) of the city to die for. (p164) County Hall to City Hall, past Wimbledon Common Follow London Eye Unsurprisingly some outstanding waterside the nature trail or just branch off visible from many remote parts sights. (p168) in any direction for woodland, of town. (p161) Hampton Court Palace Take heath, grassland and bracing City Hall Does it look like a a riverboat up the Thames to exploration. (p299) woodlouse or Darth Vader’s Henry VIII’s spectacular palace. helmet? Your call. (p166) (p290) Churches Serpentine Sackler Gallery A former 19th century gunpowder Village Charms St Paul’s Cathedral Sir depot, with an undulating Christopher Wren’s 300-year- Primrose Hill With lovely res- old domed masterpiece and modern extension by architect taurants, boutiques and pubs, London’s most iconic historic Zaha Hadid. (p183) this North London village has church. (p142) genuine appeal (and celebrity- spotting ops). (p238) Westminster Abbey Ancient History and sublime site of coronation Richmond Perhaps the arche- for English monarchs since Wil- typal London village, with village liam the Conqueror. (p78) Tower of London Spanning green, a river perspective, a Westminster Cathedral The almost 1000 years of history, fabulous bridge and gorgeous gaunt interior sparkles fitfully from fortress to home of the parkland. (p296) with dazzling Byzantine mosaics. Crown Jewels. (p136) Dulwich Village After viewing (p97) Churchill War Rooms Ground the Dulwich Picture Gallery, All Saints An extraordinarily zero of London’s war effort dur- wander around Dulwich Village beautiful example of lavish High ing WWII, left pretty much as it with its towering horse chestnut Victorian Gothic architecture. was in 1945. (p95) trees to experience some of (p99) Museum of London From London’s easy-going and tran- St Stephen Walbrook Sir Anglo-Saxon village to 21st quil charms. (p280) Christopher Wren’s finest City century metropolis, retrace the history of the capital. (p151) Walking church, and his first experience Museum of London Docklands with a dome, a precursor to St See how the Thames and the Hampstead Heath Wild, hilly, Paul’s. (p148) Docklands have shaped Lon- carefree heathland and wood- don’s history. (p220) land with some excellent views Geffrye Museum A fascinating from London’s highest open insight into the daily lives of space. (p242) London residents through the ages. (p198)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29 Month by Month TOP EVENTS bitions, special events and town (Spitalfields Market the best emerging artists. in particular). Notting Hill Carnival, August February March Chelsea Flower Show, May February is usually chilly, March sees spring in the Trooping the Colour, wet and even snow- air and trees beginning to June encrusted. The Chinese flower, most colourfully Guy Fawkes Night, New Year (Spring Festival) in parks and gardens. November is fun, and Londoners lark London is getting in the about with pancakes on mood to head outdoors Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Shrove Tuesday. again. Championships, June z Chinese New Year 2 Head of the River January In late January or early Race January in London kicks February, Chinatown fizzes, Some 400 crews take part off with a big bang at crackles and pops in this in this colourful annual midnight. London is in colourful street festival, boat race (p65), held over a the throes of winter, with which includes a Golden 7km course on the Thames, short days: light appears Dragon parade, eating and from Mortlake to Putney. at 8am and is all but gone partying. by 4pm. z St Patrick’s Day z BAFTAs z New Year’s Parade & Festival The British Academy of Top festival for the Irish in Celebration Film and Television Arts London, held on the Sunday On 31 December, the fa- (BAFTA; www.bafta.org) closest to 17 March, with a mous countdown to mid- rolls out the red carpet colourful parade through night with Big Ben is met on Leicester Sq in early central London and other with terrific fireworks from February to hand out its festivities in and around the London Eye and mas- annual cinema awards, the Trafalgar Sq. sive crowds. BAFTAs (the British Oscars if you will). Expect plenty of 3 Flare 1 London Art Fair celebrity glamour. This LGBT film festival, More than 100 major gal- 3 Pancake Races organised by the British leries participate in this Film Institute (www.bfi. contemporary art fair On Shrove Tuesday, in late org.uk/flare), runs a packed (www.londonartfair.co.uk), February/early March, you programme of film screen- now one of the largest in can catch pancake races ings, along with parties, Europe, with thematic exhi- and associated silliness talks and events for schools at various venues around and families.
30 z Chelsea Flower for innovation in those fields. April Show April sees London in 1The world’s most renowned Open Garden horticultural event (www. bloom with warmer days rhs.org.uk/chelsea) attracts Squares Weekend and a spring in everyone’s the cream of London’s Over one weekend, more step. British summer time green-fingered and flower- than 200 gardens in London PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month starts late March, so it’s mad gardeners. that are usually inaccessible 1now light until 7pm. Some to the public fling open Museums at Night their gates for exploration sights previously shut for winter reopen. (www.opensquares.org). For one weekend in May, 2 London Marathon numerous museums across London open after-hours z Pride London Some 35,000 runners – (www.culture24.org.uk/ most running for charity – museumsatnight), with The gay community paints pound through London in candle-lit tours, spooky the town pink in this annual one of the world’s biggest atmospheres, sleep-overs extravaganza (www.pride road races (www.virgin and special events such as inlondon.org), featuring a moneylondonmarathon. talks and concerts. smorgasbord of experiences, com), heading from Green- from talks to live events wich Park to the Mall. and culminating in a huge parade across London. 2 Oxford & June Cambridge Boat Races The peak season begins July Crowds line the banks of with long, warm days (it’s the Thames for the coun- light until 10pm), the This is the time to munch try’s two most famous uni- arrival of Wimbledon and on strawberries, drink in versities going oar-to-oar other alfresco events. beer gardens and join in from Putney to Mortlake the numerous outdoor (p65). Dates vary, due to z Trooping the activities, including big each university’s Easter music festivals. breaks, so check the website Colour (www.theboatraces.org). The Queen’s official birthday 1 Royal Academy (www.trooping-the-colour. 3 Udderbelly co.uk) is celebrated with Summer Exhibition much flag-waving, parades, Beginning in June and Festival pageantry and noisy flyovers. running through August, Housed in a temporary this exhibition at the Royal venue in the shape of a pur- 2 Wimbledon Academy of Arts (p101) ple upside-down cow on the showcases works submitted South Bank, this festival of Lawn Tennis by artists from all over Brit- comedy, circus and general Championships ain, distilled to a thousand family fun (www.udder- For two weeks, the quiet or so pieces. belly.co.uk) has become a South London village of spring favourite. Events run Wimbledon falls under a 3 Wireless from April to July. sporting spotlight as the world’s best tennis players One of London’s top music May gather to battle for the festivals, with an emphasis championships (p299). on dance and R&B, Wireless A delightful time to be in (www.wirelessfestival.co.uk) London: days are warming z London Festival takes place in Finsbury up and Londoners begin to Park in northeast London. start lounging around in of Architecture It is extremely popular, so parks, popping sunshades This month-long celebration book in advance. on and enjoying two bank of London’s built environ- holiday weekends (the ment (www.londonfestival 3 Lovebox first and the last in May). ofarchitecture.org) explores the significance of architec- This three-day music extrav- ture and design and how aganza (www.mamacolive. London has become a centre com/lovebox) in Victoria Park in East London was
(Top) Pancake race competitor, Spitalfields 31 (Bottom) Lord Mayor’s state coach, Lord Mayor’s Show (p327) created by dance duo Groove Armada in 2002. Although its raison d’être is dance music, there are plenty of other genres, too, including indie, pop and hip-hop. PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month August MICHAELPUCHE / SHUTTERSTOCK © Schools have broken up ED NORTON / GETTY IMAGES © for summer, families are holidaying and the hugely popular annual Caribbean carnival dances into Notting Hill. 3 BBC Promenade Concert (the Proms) Starting in mid-July and ending in early September, the Proms offer two months of outstanding classical concerts (www.bbc.co.uk/ proms) at various prestig- ious venues, centred on the Royal Albert Hall. 6 Great British Beer Festival Organised by CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale), this boozy festival (www.gbbf. org.uk) cheerfully cracks open casks of ale from the UK and abroad at Olympia (an exhibition centre). 3 Summer Screen at Somerset House For a fortnight every sum- mer, Somerset House turns its stunning couryard into an open-air cinema (p107) screening an eclectic mix of film premieres, cult classics and popular requests. z Notting Hill Carnival Europe’s biggest – and Lon- don’s most vibrant – outdoor carnival (p257) is a celebra- tion of Caribbean London, featuring music, dancing and costumes over the sum- mer bank-holiday weekend.
32 zcolours. Clocks go back to winter time the last Lord Mayor’s Show weekend of the month. September In accordance with the Magna Carta of 1215, the 3The end of summer and newly elected Lord Mayor Dance Umbrella of the City of London trav- start of autumn is a lovely time to be in town, with London’s annual festival els in a state coach from PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month comedy festivals and a of contemporary dance Mansion House to the chance to look at London (www.danceumbrella.co.uk) Royal Courts of Justice to properties normally shut features five weeks of perfor- take an oath of allegiance to the public. mances by British and inter- to the Crown. The floats, z TotallyThames national dance companies at bands and fireworks that venues across London. accompany the Mayor 3Celebrating the River were added later (www. London Film lordmayorsshow. london). Thames, this cosmopolitan festival (www.totallythames. org) sees fairs, street Festival 3 London Jazz theatre, music, food stalls, The city’s premier film fireworks and river races, event (www.bfi.org.uk/lff) Festival culminating in the superb attracts big overseas names Musicians from around the Night Procession. and you can catch more world swing into town for than 100 British and inter- 10 days of jazz (www.efg national films before their londonjazzfestival.org.uk). 3 Greenwich cinema release. Master- World influences are well Comedy Festival classes are given by world- represented, as are more This week-long laugh fest – famous directors. 7London’s largest comedy fes- conventional strands. tival (www.greenwichcome Affordable Art Fair dyfestival.co.uk) – brings big For four days in March and Decembernames and emerging acts October, Battersea Park to the National Maritime turns into a giant art fair London may see snow and Museum. (www.affordableartfair. a festive mood reigns as 1 Open House com/battersea), where more Christmas approaches than 100 galleries offer and shops are dressed London works of art from just £50. up to the nines. Days are For a weekend in late Sep- There are plenty of talks increasingly shorter. tember, the public is invited and workshops too. 1 Lighting of the in to see more than 700 heritage buildings through- Christmas Tree & out the capital that are November Lights normally off-limits (www. A celebrity is normally openhouselondon.org.uk). London nights are getting carted in to switch on all longer, but they crackle the festive lights that line 2 Great Gorilla Run with fireworks in the first Oxford, Regent and Bond week of November. streets, and a towering It looks bananas, but this Norwegian spruce is set up gorilla-costume charity run z Guy Fawkes Night in Trafalgar Sq. (www.greatgorillarun.org) along an 8km route from (Bonfire Night) 2 Ice-skating the City to Bankside, and Bonfire Night commemo- back again, is all in aid of rates Guy Fawkes’ foiled From mid-November until gorilla conservation. attempt to blow up Parlia- January, open-air ice-rinks ment in 1605. Bonfires and pop up across the city, October fireworks light up the night including one in the exqui- on 5 November. Primrose site courtyard of Somerset The weather is getting Hill, Highbury Fields, Al- House (p107) and another colder, but London’s exandra Palace, Clapham one in the grounds of the parklands are splashed Common and Blackheath Natural History Museum with gorgeous autumnal have some of the best fire- (p180). work displays.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 33 With Museums Kids London’s museums are nothing if not child London is a fantastic place for friendly. There are dedicated children or children. The city’s museums family trails in virtually every museum. will fascinate all ages, and you’ll Additionally, you’ll find plenty of activities find theatre, dance and music such as storytelling at the National Gallery performances ideal for older kids. (p89), thematic backpacks to explore the Playgrounds and parks, city British Museum (p81) and the Natural His- farms and nature reserves are tory Museum (p180), pop up performances perfect for either toddler energy- at the Victoria & Albert Museum (p176), busting or relaxation. family audioguides at the Tate Modern (p158), or art and crafts workshops at ISABELLE PLASSCHAERT / GETTY IMAGES © Somerset House (p107). Even better, many of these activities are free (check websites for details). Museum Sleepovers What better fun than sleeping at the feet of a dinosaur? Museum sleepovers are very popular and must be booked at least a couple of months in advance. Dino Snores at the Natural History Museum (p180; held monthly; for ages sev- en to 11) offers the opportunity to snooze under the watchful eye of the 150-million- year-old diplodocus, having first explored the museum’s darkest nooks and crannies with only a torch to light your way. Or head for the stars at the Science Museum (p184), for a night of hands-on workshops, science shows and an IMAX 3D film. Held monthly; ages seven to 13. Best for Babies & Toddlers London’s parks and gardens are manna from heaven for parents of young children. St James’s Park (p100) Admiring the ducks and squirrels and watching the pelicans’ teatime is a must. Hyde Park & Kensington Gardens (p182) Row your boat on the Serpentine Lake or hire a pedalo. Otherwise, take little ones to splash about the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain (p183) or play at the excellent Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Playground (p186). Gloucestershire Old Spots pig, Mudchute (p220)
PLAN YOUR TRIP With Kids34 NOT FOR PARENTS For an insight into London aimed directly at kids, pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s Not for Parents: London. Perfect for children aged eight and up, it opens up a world of intriguing stories and fascinating facts about London’s people, places, history and culture. Science Museum (p184) Royal Observatory & Greenwich Really! Head down to the basement where Park (p270) The Garden is a dedicated interactive play- First there is the park, which you need to zone for under fives. The water area is espe- gambol through to get to the Observatory; cially popular (waterproofs are available). then there are the Astronomy galleries and the Planetarium, which kids will marvel at. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (p221) Golden Hinde (p164) From the sprouting fountain patio in Kids go wild for the treasure hunts, the which kids frolick to the amazing Tum- tall tales of pirates and mutinies, and the bling Bay Playground (complete with incredibly evocative interior of this 16th tree houses, sand pit and wobbly bridge), century galleon. the park will keep kids busy for hours. Horniman Museum (p277) Mudchute (p220) An aquarium, a hands-on music room, nat- This working farm near Canary Wharf has ural history galleries and huge grounds – lots of animals, meadows and plenty of endless fun. activities for kiddies. Best for Kids Best for Teenagers Where do you start? There is so much to Teenagers can be hard to please but Lon- see and do! don punches above its weight when it comes to entertaining blasé teens. V&A Museum of Childhood (p216) Science Museum (p184) Dressing-up boxes, toys from times gone- The sensational displays about space, in- by and interactive play areas. formation technology, flying and more will have teenagers enthralled. Warner Bros Harry Potter Studio Tour (p237) Madame Tussauds (p109) Need we say more? If your kids love the With its celebrity waxworks, this is selfie books and the films, they’ll be in seventh heaven, be it with Katniss Everdeen, David heaven. Beckham or One Direction. Natural History Museum (p180) London Film Museum (p105) Dinosaurs, animals, more dinosaurs, Plan- The James Bond car collection steals the et Earth, the role of scientific research – all show but there is plenty more film memo- fascinating stuff. rabilia to enjoy. London Transport Museum London Dungeon (p163) The gory anecdotes, the rides, the unex- (p105) pected scares…the dungeon was made for Twenty London Transport buses and trains teenagers. are on display and available for touching, climbing on and general child-handling.
35 West End matinee (p56) There are plenty of plays and musicals children will love, from the Lion King to The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time. Tickets are often available on the day. PLAN YOUR TRIP With Kids LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES © Best for Outdoor Fun Xstrata Treetop Walkway at Kew Gardens (p294) Go underground and then 18m high into the canopy for an unforgettable encounter with nature. London RIB Voyages (p386) Tear through the Thames like Bond on a high-speed boat. London Transport Museum (p105) Thames river cruise (p386) Less thrill but definitely more sightseeing HMS Belfast (p165) than the RIB tours! A real light cruiser that served in WWII and the Korean War, with amazing dis- Maze at Hampton Court Palace plays to bring those history lessons to life. (p291) It takes the average visitor 20 minutes to Changing of the Guard (p86) find the centre – can your kids beat that? Soldiers in bearskin hats, red uniforms, military orders and all the pomp; kids will NEED TO KNOW gape. ¨¨Under 11s travel free on all public Best for Rainy Days (Other transport (except National Rail train than Museums) services); children aged 11 to 15 years pay half price; they must be registered Plans rain-checked by London’s famously on an accompanying adult’s Oyster unpredictable weather? As well as myriad Card (up to four children per adult). museums and galleries, here are some Registration can be done at tube sta- ideas to stay warm and dry. tions in Zone 1 or Heathrow. ¨¨Get a babysitter or nanny at www. BFI IMAX Cinema (p172) findababysitter.com; top end es- Documentaries and blockbusters in 3D for tablishments may also have some a different cinema experience. recommendations. ¨¨If you are a new London resident, Thermae Bath Spa (p314) check your local council for informa- After visiting Bath’s Roman Baths, plunge tion on child-friendly activities in your into a warm pool at the spa. area.
36 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Like a Drinking Like a Local Local Londoners, and the British in general, get bad press for binge drinking. But most drinking in London is actually warmly sociable, gregarious and harmless fun. Londoners drink at the ‘local’, shorthand for the ‘pub around the corner’. Prices may be high but generosity is commonplace and drinkers always step up to buy the next round. Despite the fickle weather, alfresco drinking is commonplace, be it in beer gardens, or on patios or pavements. Local life envelops you in London, Dining Like a Local but you might notice it only in glimpses. Londoners know how As a rule of thumb, Londoners will dine to avoid the tourist crowds – at their local fish and chip shop or enjoy waiting until late-opening nights Sunday roast at their local gastropub before slipping into museums or rather than trek across town for dinner, galleries, swarming to parks as but they’ll readily go out for a meal further soon as the sun pops out – so go afield for special occasions. You’ll also where they go and be surprised. find them piling on the peri-peri sauce at Nando’s, enjoying a fry-up (full English GERARD PUIGMAL / GETTY IMAGES © breakfast) at a ‘greasy spoon’ (a no-frills cafe) or grabbing a sandwich from Marks & Spencer to lunch outside in Hyde Park. Food markets are incredibly popular, be they the gourmet likes of Borough Market (p162) or smaller farmers markets across town. Idiosyncratic delicacies you’ll find Lon- doners tucking into include chip butty (fries in a sandwich), marmite (a yeast ex- tract spread) on toast and jellied eel (often served with pies). Shopping Like a Local They are on home turf, so Londoners know precisely where to shop. They’ll be in charity shops hunting for overlooked first editions and hard-to-find clothing, skimming market stalls for vintage togs off Brick Lane, browsing along Portobello Rd (p258), rifling through Brixton Village (p276) or retreating to small, independent bookshops for peace, quiet and old-school service. But you’ll also find them in their droves in high-street franchises in Kens- ington High St, Oxford St or shiny malls such as Westfield (p266). Brixton Village (p276)
37 Taking to the Park NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP Like a Local London has some of the world’s most beauti- Everyone’s getting about town on two ful urban green spaces and locals swarm en wheels these days, so why not hop masse to the park the minute the sun pops on a Santander Cycle (p67): it’s fun, out to read a book, play football, lord over cheap, practical, definitively local and a picnic or BBQ, or just chat with friends there are docking stations everywhere. on the grass. Join them at lunch time when All Londoners who travel by public office workers come out for their fix of sun- transport invest in an Oyster Card light or at weekends for fun and games. (p383), which nets excellent discounts and avoids queues for tickets. On the Sightseeing Like a Local buses, Routemaster heritage line 15 is excellent for sightseeing, so grab a Londoners are habitually off the beaten seat upstairs. track, taking the back route into their local park, exploring London’s wilder fringes or Londoners any amount of angst about making short cuts like following Regent’s their BBQ/picnic/beer garden plans from Canal across North London. Go exploring April to September, when it’s supposed to in zones 2 and 3 and see what you find. be spring/summer but you may still get Many Londoners bide their time until late- hit by unseasonal showers/cold snap/high night openings for central London muse- winds. ums, when there are less crowds, and save ‘regular hour’ visits for special exhibitions. Public Transport London has a world-class public trans- Local Obsessions port network but Londoners like nothing more than a good old moan about their Property commute to work. Grievances range from Owning a property is a national obsession delays due to improbably long red lights/ in the UK but is made particularly difficult signal failure/leaves on track/the wrong in London where prices are stratospheric. kind of snow (these are all real life exam- Talks of unaffordable housing, renting ver- ples by the way) to the horribly high fares. sus buying, mortgage deals, putting an offer Londoners can also argue endlessly about and being gazumped, DIY and grand reno- the definitive route from A to B. vations are classic Sunday lunch fodder. Politics North v South Traditional rabble-rousers (cue the rather The existential divide between ‘Norff’ and combative style of debate in the House of ‘Saff’ of the river remains as wide as ever. Commons), the British always talk about Each camp swears by its side. For Lon- politics. Once their teeth are truly stuck doners, the main difference is that South in, they won’t let a political debate go; so if London lacks access to the tube (which you like politics, you’ll find company. means that house prices are lower). But for visitors, the debate is moot: London is Football London, with the same amazing array of Passions run high when it comes to the sights, restaurants, bars and markets. beautiful game and rivalries between London’s three major teams (Arsenal, The Weather (& Whether It’ll Hold Chelsea and Tottenham Hotspur) are real. Out for Saturday’s BBQ) The capital has several other clubs in the More than wet, cold or grey, London’s Premier League, each with equally devoted weather is unpredictable, which causes supporters.
38 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd For Free Free Sights London may be one of the world’s Houses of Parliament most expensive cities, but it When parliament is in session, it’s free to doesn’t always cost the earth. attend and watch UK parliamentary de- Many sights and experiences are mocracy in action (p87). free or cost next to nothing. Changing of the Guard JULIAN LOVE / GETTY IMAGES © London’s most famous open-air freebie, the Changing of the Guard in the forecourt of Buckingham Palace (p85) takes place at 11.30am from April to July (and alter- nate days, weather permitting, August to March). Alternatively, catch the changing of the mounted guard at Horse Guard’s Parade (p107) at 11am (10am on Sundays). Unlocking the Tower of London Daily ritual performed at the Tower (p136) at 9am (10am on Sundays). The more elab- orate closing Ceremony of the Keys daily at 9.30pm is also free, but you’ll have to apply in writing months in advance. Architecture & Interiors For one weekend in September, Open House London (p357) opens the doors to some 850 buildings for free. Day in Court All legal proceedings – even celebrated murder trials – are open to the public (space permitting) on weekdays at the Old Bailey, otherwise known as the Central Criminal Court (p150). Free Museums & Galleries The permanent collections of all state- funded museums and galleries are open to the public free of charge; temporary exhi- bitions cost extra. Victoria & Albert Museum The spectacular V&A (p176) can easily consume a day of exploration. National Gallery This magnificent art collection (p89) contains more than 2000 European chefs-d’oeuvre. Temple Church (p152)
39 Tate Modern NEED TO KNOW PLAN YOUR TRIP For Free The art in this gallery (p158) will perplex ¨¨Websites Click on London for Free and enthral. (www.londonforfree.net) for ideas. ¨¨Discount cards The London Pass Saatchi Gallery (p387) can be a good investment if Exceptionally well-presented displays of you want to see a lot in a short time. contemporary art works here (p188). ¨¨Wi-fi access Many cafes and bars offer free wi-fi to customers. British Library ¨¨Newspapers The Evening Standard The Ritblat Gallery (p232) exhibits many and Metro are both free. of the world’s most precious manuscripts, ¨¨Children Under 11s travel free on spanning three millennia. buses and the Underground, under fives on trains. Free Activities Free Music Guided Tours Some museums, galleries and churches, A number of churches in London, espe- such as the National Gallery (p89), Tate cially the City ones, offer free lunchtime Britain (p92), Brompton Cemetery (p258) classical-music concerts. and All Hallows by the Tower (p146), offer free guided tours (on top of free St Martin-in-the-Fields admission). Other attractions such as the This magnificent church (p106) hosts free Churchill War Rooms (p95) or St Paul’s concerts at 1pm on Monday, Tuesday and Cathedral (p142) offer free audio guides, Friday. but general admission charges apply. St James’s Piccadilly A number of attractions, such as the Free 50-minute recitals (donation sug- Courtauld Gallery (p107) and the Natural gested) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday History Museum (p180), host free talks at 1.10pm (p100). and lectures. Temple Church Walking in London Free half-hour organ concerts at 1.15pm Walking around town is possibly the on Wednesday in this iconic round church best way to get a sense of the city and its (p152). history. Try our walking tours (see the neighbourhood chapters) or check London St Alfege Church Footprints (www.london-footprints.co.uk) for Free recital at 1.05pm on Thursdays cour- ideas. Note that guided walks advertised tesy of the students from Trinity Laban as ‘free’ in London are not that at all; sub- Conservatoire of Music and Dance (p273). stantial tips will be expected at the end. Low-Cost Transport Views From the Top It’s free to look around Kensington Roof The Santander Cycles access fee is £2 for Gardens (p264) when they are not being 24 hours; bike hire is then free for the first used for a function or to enjoy the views 30 minutes. Use a one-day Travelcard or an from the Sky Garden atop the Walkie Talkie Oyster Card to travel as much as you can (p147) providing you have a (free) ticket. on London Transport.
40 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd CARL COURT / STAFF / GETTY IMAGES © Dulwich Picture Gallery (p280) Museums & Galleries London’s museums and galleries top the list of the city’s must-see attractions – and not just for rainy days. Many display incomparable collections that make them acknowledged leaders in their field. A trinity of top-name museums awaits in South Kensington, and there is a similar concentration in the West End, especially around Trafalgar Sq.
41 PLAN YOUR TRIP MUSEUMS & GALLERIESNEED TO KNOW FEARGUS COONEY / GETTY IMAGES © Tickets ¨¨Permanent collections at national museums (eg British Museum, National Gallery, Victoria & Albert Museum) are free; temporary exhibitions cost extra and should be booked ahead. ¨¨Smaller museums will charge an entrance fee, typically £5 to £8. ¨¨Private galleries are usually free or have a small admission fee. Science Museum (p184) Opening Hours National collections are generally open The Big Hitters 10am to about 6pm, with one or two late London’s most famous museums are all nights a week; evenings are an excellent central, easy to get to and – best of all – time to visit museums as there are far free. The National Gallery (p89) on Trafal- fewer visitors. gar Sq displays masterpieces of Western European art from the 13th to the early Dining 20th centuries, with everyone represented Many of the top museums also have fan- from Leonardo da Vinci and Rembrandt tastic restaurants (eg National Portrait to Turner and Van Gogh. Just behind the Gallery, Wallace Collection. Royal Acad- gallery, the National Portrait Gallery (p93) emy), worthy of a visit in their own right. celebrates famous British faces through a staggering collection of 4000 paintings, Useful Websites sculptures and photographs from the 16th Most London museums – especially the century to the present day. A 20-minute most visited ones such as the British Mu- walk to the north is the British Museum seum, the National Gallery and the Victoria (p81) in Bloomsbury, housing an astonish- & Albert Museum – have sophisticated ing assembly of antiquities representing and comprehensive websites. 7000 years of human civilisation. ¨¨Culture 24 (www.culture24.org.uk) Reams of museum and gallery info. South Kensington is the home of three of ¨¨London Galleries (www.london- London’s leading museums: the Victoria & galleries.co.uk) A to Z of all London’s Albert Museum (p176), with its vast range galleries, with web links. of historical exhibits from the decorative arts, and the kid-friendly Natural History edge art finds its way into Spitalfields and (p180) and Science Museums (p184). Hoxton and even now south of the river with the White Cube Bermondsey (p166). Modern and contemporary art lovers will enjoy the Tate Modern (p158) on the South Museums at Night Bank. The Tate Britain (p92), venue of the Many museums open late once or even annual Turner Prize, is home to British twice a week, but several museums organ- artworks across the centuries. ise special nocturnal events to extend their Private Art Galleries range of activities and to present the collec- London’s vibrant artistic scene (p259) tion in a different light. Some museums ar- finds expression in private galleries, which range night events only once a year, in May. number 1500 – more than any other city in the world. Mayfair has long been strong on Museums with special nocturnal events private galleries in the more highbrow, tra- or late-night opening hours include: ditional schools of art, while more cutting- ¨¨British Museum (p81) Open to 8.30pm on Friday.
42 ¨¨British Library (p232) Open to 8pm Tuesday, National Portrait Gallery, Tate Britain, Charles Wednesday and Thursday. Dickens Museum, Queen’s Gallery, Churchill War Rooms, Royal Academy of Arts, Wallace Collection ¨¨National Portrait Gallery (p93) Open to 9pm and many smaller museums and galleries. (p81) Thursday and Friday. ¨¨The City Tower of London, Museum of London, ¨¨Sir John Soane’s Museum (p96) Evenings Guildhall Art Gallery, Barbican, Bank of England (6pm to 9pm) of the first Tuesday of each month Museum and Dr Johnson’s House. (p136) are illuminated by candlelight. JACKIE BALE / GETTY IMAGES ©¨¨The South Bank Tate Modern, Hayward Gallery, ¨¨Tate Britain (p92) Open to 10pm first Friday Shakespeare’s Globe, Design Museum (until late PLAN YOUR TRIP MUSEUMS & GALLERIESof the month. 2016), Fashion & Textile Museum and many other ¨¨Tate Modern (p158) Open to 10pm Friday and smaller museums and galleries. (p158) Saturday. ¨¨Kensington & Hyde Park Victoria & Albert Courses, Talks & Lectures Museum, Natural History Museum, Science Museum and others. (p176) Museums and galleries are excellent places to pick up specialist skills from qualified experts ¨¨Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfields Geffrye in their field. If you’d like to learn a new skill, Museum, Dennis Severs House, St John’s Gate. brush up on an old one, or attend a fascinat- (p198) ing lecture, there are many to choose from. ¨¨East London Museum of London Docklands, Venues include the British Library, British Ragged School Museum, V&A Museum of Museum, Courtauld Gallery (p107), Dulwich Childhood, Whitechapel Gallery. (p215) Picture Gallery (p280), National Gallery, ¨¨Camden & North London Wellcome National Portrait Gallery, Tate Britain, Tate Collection, London Canal Museum, Kenwood Modern and Victoria & Albert Museum. House, British Library and others. (p236) Museums & Galleries by ¨¨Notting Hill & West London Museum of Neighbourhood Brands, Packaging & Advertising, Leighton House, 18 Stafford Terrace. (p257) ¨¨The West End British Museum, National Gallery, ¨¨Greenwich & South London National Maritime Museum, Royal Observatory, Imperial Imperial War Museum (p275)
43 Lonely Planet’s Science Museum (p184) century gunpowder depot dar- PLAN YOUR TRIP MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Top Choices Spellbinding A to Z of gizmos, ingly extended by Zaha Hadid. devices, contraptions and British Museum (p81) Supreme thingamabobs. Best House collection of international arte- Museums facts and an inspiring testament Best Small Museums to human creativity over seven Charles Dickens Museum millennia, now expanded into a Geffrye Museum (p198) A (p99) The Victorian novelist’s new wing. fascinating journey through only London house. Victoria & Albert Museum British households from the 17th 18 Stafford Terrace (p257) A (p176) Very eclectic collection century onward. comfortable middle-class Victo- of decorative arts and design in Old Operating Theatre rian family brought back to life. what is affectionately known as Museum & Herb Garret (p165) Dennis Severs’ House (p200) A ‘the nation’s attic’. Delve into the pre-anaesthetic, quirky time capsule that sends National Portrait Gallery (p93) pre-antiseptic days of modern you back to an 18th-century Put a face to a name in this medicine. Huguenot house. shrine to British portraiture. Sir John Soane’s Museum Carlyle’s House (p189) Tate Modern (p158) A feast of (p96) The atmospheric home of Victorian essayist’s home and modern and contemporary art, the 19th-century architect now workspace frozen in time. housed within a transformed includes his private apartments Leighton House (p257) riverside power station. and model room. Byzantine gem on the cusp of Imperial War Museum (p275) Shakespeare’s Globe (p160) As Holland Park. The new First World War Galler- much as you’ll ever need to know Red House (p285) Arts & Craft ies have turned the IWM into a about the Bard and his work. designer William Morris’ charm- must-see attraction. Brunel Museum (p166) Dis- ingly decorated home. Museum of London (p151) Get a cover how the world’s first-ever firm handle on the history of the underwater tunnel was built. Best Specialist city at this fantastic museum. Museums Best Small Galleries Best Large Museums Fan Museum (p274) Tortoise- & Galleries Guildhall Art Gallery (p149) Ec- shell, ivory, bone, feather and lectic City of London collection paper – fans in all their glory. National Gallery (p89) Treasury above a Roman amphitheatre. Ragged School Museum of European artwork from the Courtauld Gallery (p107) (p219) Reading, writing and 13th to 20th centuries. Probably the best collection of ’rithmatic in an original Victo- Tate Britain (p92) The best of impressionist art in London. rian setting. British (Turner, Constable, Reyn- Kenwood House (p241) Hunterian Museum (p109) Vast olds, Gainsborough) rehung and Stunning collection of greats collection of innards, both grisly renovated. from the 17th to 19th century in and educational. Churchill War Rooms (p95) equally stunning settings. Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Mu- The nerve centre of Britain’s war Whitechapel Gallery (p215) seum (p299) Everything tennis, effort during WWII. A groundbreaking gallery that with ace views of centre court. Museum of London Docklands continues to challenge with London Film Museum (p105) (p220) The story of the river excellent exhibitions. Newly relocated exhibition and the trade that made London Saatchi Gallery (p188) Cutting- focuses on James Bond, his prosper. edge, ultra-cool shrine to films and flashy motors. Natural History Museum contemporary art. National Maritime Museum (p180) A cathedral to the natural Serpentine Sackler Gallery (p274) Model ships, a real ship world. (p183) The Serpentine’s new simulator and a pirate gallery. Wallace Collection (p108) An gallery, housed in a former 19th aristocrat’s collection in a stun- ning mansion.
44 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd CHIEN HAN CHEE / EYEEM / GETTY IMAGES © Full English breakfast Eating Once the laughing stock of the cooking world, London has got its culinary act together in the last 20 years and is today an undisputed dining destination. There are plenty of top-notch, Michelin-starred restaurants, but it is the sheer diversity on offer that is head-spinning: from Afghan to Vietnamese, London is a virtual A to Z of world cuisine.
PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING45 TONY C FRENCH / GETTY IMAGES © NEED TO KNOW Borough Market (p162) Opening Hours Specialities As a rule, most restaurants serve lunch ENGLISH FOOD between noon and 2.30pm and dinner between 6pm and 11pm. Brasserie-type England might have given the world baked establishments and chains tend to have beans on toast, mushy peas and chip butties continuous service from noon to 11pm. (French fries between two slices of buttered and untoasted white bread), but that’s hardly Price Ranges the whole story. When well prepared – be it a Sunday lunch of roast beef and Yorkshire These symbols indicate the average cost pudding (light batter baked until fluffy, eaten per main course at the restaurant in with gravy) or a cornet of lightly battered question. fish and chips sprinkled with salt and malt vinegar – English food can be excellent. £ less than £10 And nothing beats a fry-up (or full English breakfast) with bacon, sausages, beans, eggs ££ £10–20 and mushrooms the morning after a big night out. £££ more than £20 Modern British food has become a cuisine Reservations in its own right, by championing traditional ¨¨Make reservations for weekends if (and sometimes underrated) ingredients you’re keen on a particular place or such as root vegetables, smoked fish, shell- if you’re in a group of more than four fish, game, sausages and black pudding (a people. kind of sausage stuffed with oatmeal, spices and blood). Dishes can be anything from ¨¨Top-end restaurants often run mul- game served with a traditional vegetable tiple sittings, with allocated time slots such as Jerusalem artichoke, to seared scal- (generally two hours); pick a late slot if lops with orange-scented black pudding, or you don’t want to be rushed. roast pork with chorizo on rosemary mash. Tipping SEAFOOD Most restaurants automatically tack a Many visitors to England comment that for ‘discretionary’ service charge (usually islanders, Brits seem to make surprisingly 12.5%) onto the bill; this should be clearly little of their seafood, with the exception of advertised. If you feel the service wasn’t the ubiquitous – and institutionalised – fish adequate, you can tip separately (or not and chips. But modern British restaurants tip at all). If there is no service charge on have started to cast their nets and many your bill and you would like to tip, 10% is offer local specialities such as Dover sole, about right. Cornish oysters, Scottish scallops, smoked Haute Cuisine, Low Prices ¨¨Top-end restaurants offer set lunch menus that are great value. À la carte prices are also sometimes cheaper for lunch than dinner. ¨¨Many West End restaurants offer good-value pre- or post-theatre menus. ¨¨The reliable internet booking service Open Table (www.opentable.co.uk) offers substantial discounts (up to 50% off the food bill) at selected restaurants. BYO ¨¨BYO is common among budget estab- lishments; some charge corkage (£1 to £1.50 per bottle of wine). ¨¨Wine Pages (www.wine-pages. com) keeps a useful directory of BYO restaurants.
46 Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfields Eating by Neighbourhood #ú Famous, creative restaurants and great bargains (p201) Camden & North London Gourmet choices, gastropubs ú# and ethnic eats (p244) PLAN YOUR TRIP EATING Notting Hill & East London #ú EcleWctiecs, ftroLmonvedgoentarian Curry houses, to Eastern European ú# ú#GeTahreedCtoiwtyards traditional caffs, ‚ (p260) the business cool restaurants (1mi) lunch (p152) TGhreeaWt feorsAtsEiannd, (p222) European and fusion (p110) #ú‚ #ú ú# (1mi) KensCinhgict,ocnos&moHpyodliteanPark and often pricey London # TChhaeinSsooun tthheBriavenrk, (p189) Eye culinary gems 'inland' (p166) ‚ Richmond, Kew & #ú ú# SoHphaismticpattoend rCesotuaurtrants, Greenwich & with style and substance South London (p300) Fine gastronomy, (2mi) trendy markets and eateries (p280) Norfolk eel, Atlantic herring, and mackerel. ern European in Shepherd’s Bush, Turkish Top-of-the-line restaurants specialising in in Dalston, Korean in New Malden, Bengali seafood abound and fish-and-chips coun- in Brick Lane, African Caribbean in Brixton, ters trading in battered cod, haddock and Vietnamese around Kingsland Rd etc. plaice are ubiquitous. DESSERTS WORLD FOOD England does a mean dessert, and estab- One of the joys of eating out in London lishments serving British cuisine revel in is the profusion of choice. For historical these indulgent treats. Favourites include reasons Indian cuisine is widely available bread-and-butter pudding, sticky toffee (curry has been labelled a national dish), pudding (a steamed pudding containing but Asian cuisines in general are very dates and topped with a divine caramel popular. You’ll find dozens of Chinese, Thai, sauce), the alarmingly named spotted dick Japanese and Korean restaurants, as well (a steamed suet pudding with currants and as elaborate fusion establishments blending raisins), Eton mess (meringue, cream and flavours from different parts of Asia. Middle strawberries mixed into a gooey, heavenly Eastern cuisine is also well covered. mess), and seasonal musts such as Christ- mas pudding (a steamed pudding with Food from continental Europe – French, candied fruit and brandy) and fruity crum- Italian, Spanish, Greek, Scandinavian – is bles (rhubarb, apple etc). another favourite, with many excellent mod- ern European establishments. Restaurants serving these cuisines tend to congregate where their home community is based: East-
47 Gastropubs PLAN YOUR TRIP EATINGwhose mad-professor-like experiments with While not so long ago the pub was where food (molecular gastronomy, as he describes you went for a drink, with maybe a packet HOWARD SHOOTER / GETTY IMAGES © it) have earned him rave reviews. of potato crisps to soak up the alcohol, the birth of the gastropub in the 1990s means Coffee & Cafes that today just about every establishment Tea may be the quintessential English bev- serves full meals. But the quality varies erage, but it’s coffee that keeps the city mov- widely, from defrosted-on-the-premises to ing and the urban pulse throbbing. Home Michelin-star worthy. to an incredibly vibrant and varied coffee culture and an army of skilled baristas, Breakfast London has an abundance of coffee shops The Brits were always big on breakfast – and cafes, from busy chains to small inde- they even invented one, the full English pendent affairs, classic operations, artisan breakfast. It’s something of a protein over- cafes and designer spots. To catch London’s load but there’s nothing quite like it to mop coffee obsession in full swing, pitch up up the excesses of a night on the tiles. A during the London Coffee Festival (www. typical plate will include bacon, sausages, londoncoffeefestival.com) in spring. And if it’s baked beans in tomato sauce, eggs (fried or just coffee beans you’re after, swing by the scrambled), mushrooms, tomatoes and toast fantastic Algerian Coffee Stores (p130). (maybe with Marmite). You’ll find countless brightly-lit, grotty cafes – nicknamed ‘greasy Food Markets spoons’ – serving these monster plates. The boom in London’s eating scene has ex- They’re also a must in gastropubs. tended to its markets, which come in three broad categories: food stalls that are part Making a comeback on the breakfast of a broader market and appeal to visitors table is porridge (boiled oats in water or keen to soak up the atmosphere (eg Spital- milk, served hot), sweet or savoury. Top-end fields (p211), Borough (p162) or Camden restaurants serving breakfast, such as Balt- hazar (p117), have played a big part in glam- ming up what was essentially poor folk’s food. It’s great with banana and honey, fruit compote or even plain with some chocolate powder. Vegetarians & Vegans London has been one of the best places for vegetarians to dine out since the 1970s, initially due mostly to its many Indian res- taurants, which, for religious reasons, al- ways cater for people who don’t eat meat. A number of dedicated vegetarian restaurants have since cropped up, offering imagina- tive, filling and truly delicious meals. Most nonvegetarian places generally offer a cou- ple of dishes for those who don’t eat meat; vegans, however, will find it harder outside Indian or dedicated establishments. Celebrity Chefs Yorkshire pudding London’s food renaissance was partly led by a group of telegenic chefs who built food empires around their names and their TV programs. Gordon Ramsay is the most (in)- famous of the lot but his London venues are still standard-bearers for top-quality cuisine. Other big names include Jamie Oliver, whose restaurant Fifteen (p205) trains disadvan- taged young people, and Heston Blumenthal,
Search
Read the Text Version
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6
- 7
- 8
- 9
- 10
- 11
- 12
- 13
- 14
- 15
- 16
- 17
- 18
- 19
- 20
- 21
- 22
- 23
- 24
- 25
- 26
- 27
- 28
- 29
- 30
- 31
- 32
- 33
- 34
- 35
- 36
- 37
- 38
- 39
- 40
- 41
- 42
- 43
- 44
- 45
- 46
- 47
- 48
- 49
- 50
- 51
- 52
- 53
- 54
- 55
- 56
- 57
- 58
- 59
- 60
- 61
- 62
- 63
- 64
- 65
- 66
- 67
- 68
- 69
- 70
- 71
- 72
- 73
- 74
- 75
- 76
- 77
- 78
- 79
- 80
- 81
- 82
- 83
- 84
- 85
- 86
- 87
- 88
- 89
- 90
- 91
- 92
- 93
- 94
- 95
- 96
- 97
- 98
- 99
- 100
- 101
- 102
- 103
- 104
- 105
- 106
- 107
- 108
- 109
- 110
- 111
- 112
- 113
- 114
- 115
- 116
- 117
- 118
- 119
- 120
- 121
- 122
- 123
- 124
- 125
- 126
- 127
- 128
- 129
- 130
- 131
- 132
- 133
- 134
- 135
- 136
- 137
- 138
- 139
- 140
- 141
- 142
- 143
- 144
- 145
- 146
- 147
- 148
- 149
- 150
- 151
- 152
- 153
- 154
- 155
- 156
- 157
- 158
- 159
- 160
- 161
- 162
- 163
- 164
- 165
- 166
- 167
- 168
- 169
- 170
- 171
- 172
- 173
- 174
- 175
- 176
- 177
- 178
- 179
- 180
- 181
- 182
- 183
- 184
- 185
- 186
- 187
- 188
- 189
- 190
- 191
- 192
- 193
- 194
- 195
- 196
- 197
- 198
- 199
- 200
- 201
- 202
- 203
- 204
- 205
- 206
- 207
- 208
- 209
- 210
- 211
- 212
- 213
- 214
- 215
- 216
- 217
- 218
- 219
- 220
- 221
- 222
- 223
- 224
- 225
- 226
- 227
- 228
- 229
- 230
- 231
- 232
- 233
- 234
- 235
- 236
- 237
- 238
- 239
- 240
- 241
- 242
- 243
- 244
- 245
- 246
- 247
- 248
- 249
- 250
- 251
- 252
- 253
- 254
- 255
- 256
- 257
- 258
- 259
- 260
- 261
- 262
- 263
- 264
- 265
- 266
- 267
- 268
- 269
- 270
- 271
- 272
- 273
- 274
- 275
- 276
- 277
- 278
- 279
- 280
- 281
- 282
- 283
- 284
- 285
- 286
- 287
- 288
- 289
- 290
- 291
- 292
- 293
- 294
- 295
- 296
- 297
- 298
- 299
- 300
- 301
- 302
- 303
- 304
- 305
- 306
- 307
- 308
- 309
- 310
- 311
- 312
- 313
- 314
- 315
- 316
- 317
- 318
- 319
- 320
- 321
- 322
- 323
- 324
- 325
- 326
- 327
- 328
- 329
- 330
- 331
- 332
- 333
- 334
- 335
- 336
- 337
- 338
- 339
- 340
- 341
- 342
- 343
- 344
- 345
- 346
- 347
- 348
- 349
- 350
- 351
- 352
- 353
- 354
- 355
- 356
- 357
- 358
- 359
- 360
- 361
- 362
- 363
- 364
- 365
- 366
- 367
- 368
- 369
- 370
- 371
- 372
- 373
- 374
- 375
- 376
- 377
- 378
- 379
- 380
- 381
- 382
- 383
- 384
- 385
- 386
- 387
- 388
- 389
- 390
- 391
- 392
- 393
- 394
- 395
- 396
- 397
- 398
- 399
- 400
- 401
- 402
- 403
- 404
- 405
- 406
- 407
- 408
- 409
- 410
- 411
- 412
- 413
- 414
- 415
- 416
- 417
- 418
- 419
- 420
- 421
- 422
- 423
- 424
- 425
- 426
- 427
- 428
- 429
- 430
- 431
- 432
- 433
- 434
- 435
- 436
- 437
- 438
- 439
- 440
- 441
- 442
- 443
- 444
- 445
- 446
- 447
- 448
- 449
- 450
- 451
- 452
- 1 - 50
- 51 - 100
- 101 - 150
- 151 - 200
- 201 - 250
- 251 - 300
- 301 - 350
- 351 - 400
- 401 - 450
- 451 - 452
Pages:
