[Lonely Planet] Korea

200 1 Sights & Activities b­usiness-class property that engineers, technicians and ship-industry profession- Gangguan HARBOUR als choose when visiting Geojedo. Not far from the Samsung shipyard, this up­ (강구안) It’s not the only harbour in the market p­roperty is one of the few hotels city but Gangguan is the prettiest. It’s also in ­Gyeongsangnam-do with an indoor a busy pier anchored by a promenade that s­ wimming pool. serves multiple civic functions, including dock, basketball court and picnic ground for Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do  package-tour travellers who aren’t squeam- Green Restaurant KOREAN ₩₩ ish about a mid-morning soju pick-me-up. (그린 식육 식당; %055 636 7535; servings from ₩9500) If the dozen-or-so raw-fish restaurants near the black pebble beach Turtle Ship Replicas HISTORIC SITE (p198) in Hakdong don’t look appealing, (거북선; adult/youth ₩2000/1600; h9am- 6pm) Towards the north end of the Ganggu- try the barbecued pork at this small shop. an promenade, there are four turtle ships. Both samgyupsal (삼겹살; fatty pork belly) and moksal (목살; pork chop) are Definitely worth a look. While ducking your head inside the ship, try to imagine how 50 available. sailors and 70 oarsmen might have func- 88 Getting There & Around tioned in these cramped quarters. From the Gohyeon intercity bus terminal, there Hallyeosudo Cable Car CABLE CAR are frequent connections to Busan’s Seobu terminal (₩7200, 1½ hours, every 10 to 30 (한려수도 케이블카; %055 649 3804; minutes), Tongyeong (₩3400, 25 minutes, http://cablecar.ttdc.kr; one way/return adult every 20 minutes) and Jinju (₩11,100, one hour, ₩6500/10,000, child ₩4000/6000; h9.30am- hourly). 5.30pm Sep-Mar, to 7pm Apr-Aug, closed 2nd & 4th Mon of month; g141) Stretching out 1975m, Outside Geoje-si, the island’s biggest town, this is Korea’s longest cable-car ride. Near public transport is not well developed. Although the top of Mireuk-san (461m), the view of there are local buses, connections are incon- Hallyeo Maritime National Park is dramatic. B usa n & Gy eo n gsa n g n a m - d o T ongyeong venient so personal transport on the island is If you’re up for a two-hour hike, buy a one- recommended. It’s relatively easy to drive to and way ticket, walk down the back end of the from Busan thanks to the Busan-Geoje Fixed mountain and head towards the Undersea Link bridge but you’ll have to pay the ₩10,000 Tunnel. Pick up a map from the booth near toll for cars. the ticket window. If you’re coming here on the weekend, arrive early because wait times can be long. Tongyeong 통영 The cable-car ticket office is a ₩7000 taxi % 055 / POP 134,000 ride from the passenger ferry terminal and On the southern tip of Goseong Peninsula, ₩10,000 from the intercity bus terminal. Tongyeong is a coastal city wedged between Namhaedo and Geojedo. Most of the pictur- Jungang Live Fish Market MARKET esque sights are in and around Gangguan (중앙활어시장; h8am-8pm) Sure there’s lots of fish, but this open-air market, filled with (강구안), a pretty harbour made for sunset grannies selling food out of plastic tubs, is strolls. Visiting Tongyeong’s truly spectacu- lar sights – any one of the 151 islands dotting a good place to buy fruit and vegies before heading out on a ferry trip. The front en- the coastline – usually requires an overnight trance is near Gangguan harbour. stay and early morning ferry departure to some of the most pristine territory in the province. Nammang-san MOUNTAIN There are three tourist information (남망산) Set aside an hour or more to enjoy the views atop this mountain beside Gang- booths. Outside the intercity bus terminal guan harbour. On the way up, you’ll pass a and on Gangguan harbour (both open 9am to 6pm), there’s a decent selection of ma- modest sculpture park with 15 pieces of art. Up top there’s a statue of Yi Sun-shin and terial, though you’ll need to rely on body a pavilion providing panoramic harbour language because no one speaks English. Ferry schedules are available from the desk views. inside the coastal passenger ferry terminal Undersea Tunnel TUNNEL (%055 642 8392; h9am-4pm). (해저 터널; h24hr) F The journey to the Undersea Tunnel is more interesting

201 than the sight itself. Constructed in the One serving of this spicy dish, which will early 1930s, the 483m-long tunnel connects test the red-pepper tolerance of the hardiest both sides of Seoho Bay (서호만). Not much Korean food lover, should be enough for a more than a cement corridor, it does make single person. for a pleasant evening stroll towards the Tongyeong Grand Bridge. Ae Gul Bang BAKERY ₩ (통영애꿀빵; %055 648 8583; 6 balls for ₩6000; h8am-9pm) Stroll the Gangguan Tongyeong Sea Land BATHHOUSE Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do  (통영 해수랜드; %055 645 7700; public harbour road and it’s impossible to miss the bath/jjimjilbang adult ₩6000/10,000, youth incredible number of shops selling a honey-­ 5000/9000; h24hr) This is a 24-hour spa covered sticky ball of bread with a paste fill- and jjimjilbang, so guests can sleep here ing called gul bang. Ae Gul Bang is a little overnight. Incredible value for budget trav- different because its made with rice flour, ellers, but don’t expect a good rest: you’re on which gives the bread a soft texture. Yummy a hard floor surrounded by cranky babies, but very sweet. drunken snorers and people tiptoeing to the toilet all night. On the bright side, take a Dong Hae Sikdang KOREAN ₩₩ (동해 식당; %055 646 1117; meals from ₩8000; bath any time you want. It’s on the Ganggu- h8am-8pm) A few scruffy tables with bois- an harbour road. terous fishermen polishing off their third 4 Sleeping bottle of soju may not look inviting, but this small eatery serves excellent food. The Around Gangguan there’s a handful of mo- maeuntang (매운탕; spicy seafood soup) tels near the ferry terminal and further is brimming with flavour and comes with down the road near the KB Bank, which is a wonderful array of side dishes. It’s behind where Tongyeong’s seedy side comes to life the Palace Motel (팔레스 모텔) near the at night. Gangguan harbour. oNexun MOTEL ₩₩ 88 Getting There & Around (넥슨모텔; %055 643 6568; r from ₩50,000; pai) The modern design and central The bus terminal is on the city’s northern fringe. B usa n & Gy eo n gsa n g n a m - d o J inju location make this motel one of the nicer Local buses 10, 20, 30 and 40 run to Gangguan properties around Gangguan. Decent res- (₩1200, 25 minutes) from the terminal. A taxi to taurants and waterfront strolls are minutes Gangguan costs ₩7000. from your room. The passenger ferry ter- minal is across the street, which is ideal for Express buses connect Tongyeong with Jinju travellers catching an early ferry to a nearby (₩7600, 1½ hours, every 30 to 60 minutes), island. Busan (₩14,600, two hours, every 20 min- utes), Gohyeon (₩3400, 25 minutes, every 15 Napoli Motel MOTEL ₩₩ minutes), Gimhae airport (₩10,400, 1½ hours, (나폴리모텔; %055 646 0202; http://tynapoli. five daily departures) and Seoul (₩21,600, 4½ hours, every 30 to 50 minutes). co.kr; r from ₩50,000; ai) This serviceable motel by the northern end of the Gangguan promenade has fairly modern rooms with Jinju 진주 harbour views. Expect to pay ₩70,000 and % 055 / POP 340,000 up in July and August. Famous for bibimbap (rice, egg, meat and vegies with chilli sauce) and its role in the 5 Eating & Drinking Japanese invasions of the 16th century, Jinju is a laid-back city with a park-like fortress by oDdungbo Halmae Gimbap KOREAN ₩ the Nam-gang (Nam River). It’s the largest (뚱보 할매 김밥; %055 645 2619; per serving ₩4500; h7am-midnight) Hungry travellers city in the area and a convenient transport hub from which to explore the province’s with limited Korean skills come here be- western region. With excellent bus connec- cause there’s no need to speak or read a menu: this place only serves chungmu gim- tions, it’s an easy day trip from Busan. bap (충무 김밥), a spicy squid-and-radish 1 Sights & Activities dish. The waitress will ask how many serv- ings you want and, if necessary, she’ll use Jinju’s interesting sights are north of the her fingers to count. It’s opposite the turtle Nam-gang. East of Jinju Fortress, Jinju-­ ships in Gangguan. daero separates two worlds: a traditional

202 e# 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles 6Jinju DA B D C D Diddly Bop (140m) Galleria D Cheonwhang Sikdang (50m) Department Jinju-daero 66#Jinju Jungang 66ñ# ò# Store (130m) Market Choseok-ro #ì ú# 7 Ø# Jinjuseong-ro 1 1 Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do  Underground 3 Jinnyangho-ro Mall 6666 662 Namgang-ro Jinju Fortress ›# 6 ú# ToNuroisrtthOGffaictee#ïV#North Gate Jinju Intercity 5 ÿ# Bus Terminal East Gate ÿ# 4 V# Jinju Bridge Nam River 2 â# 2 1 Jinju ›#(2km); æ# 6666666A B C D D Jinju £# (5km) Jinju Jageum Seong BATHHOUSE æ Sights (자금성; Map p202; jjimjilbang ₩8000; h24hr) 1 Jinju Fortress.........................................A2 In Jinju’s red-light district, take a bath and 2 Jinju National Museum ........................A2 relax in the jjimjilbang before heading out Ø Activities, Courses & Tours for dinner and drinks. Then come back and 3 Jageum Seong ...................................... C1 sleep on the floor. Exit the bus terminal, cross the street, walk left and then turn right at the first B usa n & Gy eo n gsa n g n a m - d o J inju ÿ Sleeping corner. Turn left at the small children’s 4 Dong Bang Hotel...................................D2 playground. It’s in the tall building. 5 S+ Motel.................................................D2 ú Eating z Festivals & Events 6 Poong Nyun ...........................................D2 7 Zio Ricco ................................................ C1 Around 50,000 glowing tigers, dragons and folk-tale characters light up the river during market to the east and modern trappings the Nam-gang Lantern Festival (www. such as cafes, bars, restaurants, cinemas and yudeung.com) in early October. oodles of retail to the west. 4 Sleeping Jinju Fortress HISTORIC SITE There are half a dozen or more budget mo- (진주성; Map p202; adult/child/youth tels behind the intercity bus terminal. ₩2000/600/1000; h9am-6pm Sun-Fri, to 7pm oDong Bang Hotel BUSINESS HOTEL ₩₩ (동방호텔; Map p202; %055 743 0131; www. Sat) Local street signs call it a castle, but hoteldongbang.com; r from ₩145,000; paW) it’s actually a well-preserved fortress that was partially destroyed during the Jap- Jinju’s only business-class hotel has per- fectly cosy rooms with superb river views, anese invasion of 1592. One of the major although the decor feels somewhat 1980s. battles of that campaign, in which 70,000 Koreans lost their lives, was fought here. The cordial, English-speaking staff make this a very handy property to use as a base Inside the fortress, traditional gates and for touring the region. Prices jump in July shrines dot the grassy knolls of the heavily wooded park. and August. It’s a 20-minute walk to Jinju Fortress and the city centre. The small but interesting Jinju National Museum (국립진주박물관; Map p202; http:// jinju.museum.go.kr; h9am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm S+ Motel MOTEL ₩₩ (S+모텔; Map p202; %055 742 8580; regu- Sat, Sun & holidays) F, inside the fortress, lar/special/VIP r ₩40,000/50,000/70,000; has a worthwhile Imjin War ­exhibition. pai) Wondering what the ‘S’ stands for? It might be ‘snazzy’ because the room

decor uses funky tiles and vibrant colours 203 such as cherry red, tangerine orange and to enjoy barbecued samgyeopsal (삼겹살; lime green. The rooms aren’t especially fatty pork) and hard-to-find beoseot jeongol spacious, though the VIP option comes (소고기버섯전골), a beef-and-mushroom with a king bed. casserole. 5 Eating & Drinking Diddly Bop BAR For something different, try one of the eel (디들리밥; h5pm-3am) It may not have all restaurants (₩15,000 to ₩20,000 per per- the trappings of a traditional Irish pub, son) along the waterfront near the fortress. such as patrons shouting ‘How’s the craic?’, Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do  Pyeongan-dong, the area behind the Galle- but it does have some good beer on tap, ria department store, has a good number of a respectable vinyl collection and decent bars and restaurants. chips. It’s on a lane in Pyeongan-dong, be- hind the Galleria department store. oZio Ricco ITALIAN ₩₩ 88 Getting There & Around (Map p202; %055 741 7776; meals ₩10,000- 20,000; h10am-11pm; a) With low chairs AIR and cool music, Zio Ricco is popular with The closest airport is in Sacheon, 20km from locals and expats. Pasta and pizza are the Jinju. Two daily flights connect with Gimpo specialities – they’re decent enough and airport in Seoul via Korean Air, which also make for a nice break from Korean food, if runs two flights a week to Jeju-do (as does you need one. On the 2nd floor, the restau- Asiana). Local buses connect Jinju’s north-end rant owner sometimes (8pm to 10pm one bus terminal to Sacheon airport (₩3000, 30 Saturday night a month) plays sax with a minutes). surprisingly good band. BUS There’s an express bus terminal south of the Cheonwhang Sikdang KOREAN ₩₩ river with services to Seoul (₩23,000, every 20 (천황식당; meals ₩9000-20,000; h9.30am- minutes), Daegu (₩13,100, hourly) and Gwangju 9pm, closed 1st & 3rd Mon of month) Housed in (₩14,900, every 1½ hours). Most regional trav- a rustic post-war building, Cheonwhang is ellers use the terminal (시외버스터미널; Map B usa n & Gy eo n gsa n g n a m - d o J inju the place for bibimbap, a bowl of vegies, p202) north of the river, which is close to the rice and a splotch of red-pepper paste city centre. served with seonji guk (선지국; beef-blood soup). Traditionalists might opt for the TRAIN regional speciality, yukhoe bibimbap (육 The train station is south of the Nam-gang. 회비빔밥), which adds raw beef seasoned There is KTX service connecting with Seoul with soy sauce and sesame oil to the mix. (adult/child ₩56,600/28,300, 3½ hours, five Walk up Jinju-daero towards Galleria daily), Dongdaegu (adult/child ₩16,300/8100, and turn right at the first lane past Cho- 1½ hours, twice daily) and Daejeon (adult/child seok-ro. Look for the old tile roof, wooden ₩33,300/16,000, 2½ hours, twice daily). doors and grey-white exterior. Slower mugunghwa (adult/child Poong Nyun KOREAN ₩₩ ₩7400/3700, two hours, four daily) and saemaeul (adult/child ₩12,500/8000, 1½ (풍년; Map p202; %055 746 0606; pork per hours, departs 7.26pm) services run to Gupo station in Busan. serving ₩8000, jeongol ₩10,000; h11.40am- 2.30pm & 5.30-10pm) A cosy meat restaurant BUS DEPARTURES FROM JINJU (NORTH TERMINAL) DESTINATION PRICE (₩) DURATION FREQUENCY Busan 7700 1½hr every 10-20min Hadong 5000 1hr every 30min Namhae 5700 1½hr every 15-30min Ssanggyae-sa 7300 2hr departs 7.10pm Tongyeong 4900 1½hr every 50min

204 남해도 German Village ARCHITECTURE Namhaedo (독일 마을; h24hr) F Here’s a destina- tion people visit because it’s popular, not % 055 / POP 49,000 because it’s interesting. Local marketing Namhaedo, the country’s third-largest is- bumf calls it one of the island’s best sites, land, is famous for garlic and a slower pace of life so clearly evident in the countryside, but the German Village is yawningly under- whelming. There’s nothing to do except walk Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do  where some farmers continue to use oxen to on the street and remark how different the plough fields. The drive around the island is arguably one of the most scenic routes in architecture looks compared to the Soviet-­ inspired apartment blocks spanning Seoul’s Korea. Rugged ocean views, dense forests Han River. If you do come, be prepared for and tiny fishing ports untouched by tourist development are best appreciated by travel- crowds and traffic. lers with their own transport and an unhur- 4 Sleeping & Eating ried sense of exploration. 1 Sights & Activities Byzantine Motel LOVE HOTEL ₩₩ (비잔틴 모텔; %055 864 1515; standard/spe- cial r ₩40,000/50,000; ai) If you need to Bori-am BUDDHIST TEMPLE sleep in Namhae-si, the Byzantine Motel is down a side road outside the bus terminal. (보리암; depending on car size parking ₩4000- It’s a standard love hotel, but rooms are 7000; h8am-8pm) Between Namhae-si and slightly above average. The town centre is a Sangju beach, Bori-am is a busy Buddhist 10-m­ inute walk away. hermitage on Geum-san (금산; Geum Mountain, 681m) famous for brilliant sun- rises and mesmerising vistas, the kind that move people to reconsider the meaning of Oasis Pension PENSION ₩₩ life. The hermitage is a 30-minute drive (오아시스펜션; %055 862 6232; standard/ from Namhae-si, or catch the Bori-am shut- ocean view r ₩50,000/70,000; aW) If you’re tle bus (hourly departures 8am to 8pm) spending the night in Sangju beach, try near the front door of the Namhae-si bus this pension where most rooms come with B usa n & Gy eo n gsa n g n a m - d o N amhaedo terminal. a double bed and a basic kitchen. Prices jump to ₩200,000 during summer, when Getting to the mountaintop requires the beach is packed. It’s on the road running Buddha-like patience. The easiest way up parallel to the beach. is to take a shuttle bus from the entrance-­ level parking lot to the upper-level park- oDajeong Sikdang ing area (per person ₩1000, minimum 15 KOREAN ₩₩ people before bus departs). From there it’s (다정식당; %055 867 7334; meals from ₩8000; a 30-minute walk to the hermitage. Some h7am-7pm) In Mijo this modest restaurant travellers with cars forgo the shuttle bus, serves outstanding twenjang jjigae (된장찌 preferring to drive to the upper parking 개; soybean stew). The soft tofu with veg- area. Space up top is limited, so expect to etables and seafood is a welcome treat for wait an hour or more if you arrive in the travellers who need a break from spicy food. afternoon. Facing the police station, walk left and turn right at the corner. Walk straight, turn left at the store and take the first right. It’s down Sangju BEACH the road. (상주 해수육장) For most of the year this pretty beach with 2km of soft white sand and shallow water is a quiet destination. 88 Getting There & Around During summer it’s packed with fun-­seeking There are frequent bus connections to Nam- frolickers, triggering 400% price spikes at hae-si from Seobu terminal in Busan and the nearby motels. The beach is about a Jinju. Leaving the island, buses run to Hadong 30-minute drive south from Namhae-si. (₩4700, one hour, depart 6am, 7.10am, 10.05am and 4pm), Jinju (₩5700, 1½ hours, VILLAGE every 15 to 30 minutes) and Busan (₩11,900, 2¼ Mijo (미조) This rustic fishing village is an ide- hours, every 30 to 45 minutes). al roadside diversion. Walk along the port, Local buses from Namhae-si to Sangju beach zizgag through narrow alleys and sample (₩2500, 40 minutes, every 20 to 40 minutes) superb rural food. It’s a short drive down the and Mijo (₩3400, one hour, every 20 to 40 road from Sangju beach. minutes) are available, but the return trip can involve long roadside waits.

Jirisan National Park e# 0 5 km 0 2.5 miles BC D A 2ÿ#3RH(14ye5o2nmg)jae-bong 6666666666666666661 E FG 5 S# CVhaillsleeoyn Yupyeong-ni Buun-ni S# 6 ›# Baengmu-dong 2 æ# S#22 1 S# 13 Bus Stop 12 S# Baemsagol S# 7 10 Valley Ju(1n8g7-5bmon)g ÿ# Y#Mujaechigipokpo BaegVmalulenydong R(C1Rh9e1o5mnw) ang-bong Banya-bong R Yeongshin-bong ÿ# 20 (1732m) 9Dÿ#eokpyeoRng-bo(n16g5R1m) 15 ÿ# Myeongseon-bong R (1586m) (1522m) 21 ÿ# R To(1k5k3i4-bmon) g 6666666662 2 16 S# Kalbawi ö# Boulder ÿ# Jungsan-ni Naewon-sa # 18 S# Cheoneunsa #Chilbul-sa Daesong-ni 17 Valley 11 S# 666666666Valley 3 ÿ#19 Naedae-ri 3 R (S1a2m88simn-)bong Piagol Hwaeomsa Valley 3 #æ Wangsiri-bong R 6666666664 (1243m) 8 1 #\\Cheonghak Bridge S# Y# Ú# 4 4 Hwagae (10km); ÿ# Hadong (25km) 14 205 D D Gurye (3km) 666666666A JEOLLANAM-DO GYEONGSANGNAM-DO B CDE F G B usa n & Gy eo n gsa n g n a m - d o N amhaedo Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do 

206 Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do  Jirisan National Park 11 Daeseong Bridge Camping Ground ...................................................D3 æ Sights 1 Buril Pokpo ...............................................E4 12 Dalgung Car Camping Ground .............. B1 2 Daewon-sa................................................G1 13 Deokdong Car Camping Ground........... C1 3 Hwaeom-sa.............................................. A3 14 Gilson Minbak ..........................................D4 4 Ssanggye-Sa ........................................... D4 15 Jangteomok Shelter................................E2 16 Jungsan-ri Camping Ground ................. F2 ÿ Sleeping 17 Naewon Car Camping Ground...............G3 5 Baemsagol Camping Ground 1 ..............C1 18 Nogodan Shelter .....................................B3 6 Baemsagol Camping Ground 2..............C1 19 Piagol Shelter...........................................B3 7 Baengmu-dong Camping 20 Rotari Shelter........................................... F2 Ground ................................................... E1 21 Seseok Shelter......................................... E2 8 Buril Pokpo Camping Ground ............... D4 22 Somakgol Camping Ground .................. G1 9 Byeoksoryeong Shelter ......................... D2 23 Yeonhacheon Shelter .............................D2 10 Chibanmok Shelter.................................. F1 Jirisan Hiking Trails HIKING Jirisan National Park – (지리산 하이킹 트레일; http://eng.jirisan- tour.com/; park entrance adult/child/youth East 지리산 국립공원 ₩2500/500/1000) It’s impossible to describe % 055 the myriad trails within this great park. This park offers some of Korea’s best hiking The traditional course runs east to west opportunities, with 12 peaks over 1000m forming a 40km-long ridge. Many peaks are (Daewon-s­a to Hwaeom-sa), which experi- enced hikers say requires three days. Trav- over 1500m, including Cheonwang-bong ellers from Busan and Gyeongsangnam-do (1915m), the country’s second-highest m­ ountain. There are three principal en- often begin their journey via Ssanggye-sa, which is close to a bus stop, budget motels trances, each with a temple. Two of the and restaurants. Infrequent direct buses de- B usa n & Gy eo n gsa n g n a m - d o J irisan N ational Park – E ast three temples, Ssanggye-sa and Daewon-sa, are in Gyeongsangnam-do. From the west, part Busan; otherwise travel to Hadong and catch a bus to the temple. Hwaeom-sa is accessible via Gurye in Some Lonely Planet readers have suggest- J­ eollanam-do. The Jirisan Bear Project was estab- ed a three-night route that puts hikers in position for a sunrise view on top of Cheon- lished in 2004 to build up a self-sustaining wang-bong. The route starts with a night at group of 50 wild bears in Jiri-san. the Nogodan shelter. The next two nights 1 Sights & Activities are spent at the Baemsagol camping ground and Jangteomok shelter. On the final day, Ssanggye-Sa BUDDHIST TEMPLE follow the trail to Jungsan-ri and then catch (쌍계사; %055 883 1901; www.ssanggyesa.net; a bus to Jinju or Busan. Most shelters re- adult/child/teen ₩2500/500/1000; h8am-6pm) The visual imagery of this temple is a feast quire reservations, which usually need to be made 15 days in advance. for the eyes and, like any exquisite dinner, Travellers with less ambitious plans, but should be savoured with deliberation. Stone walls supporting multiple levels of buildings who want to experience Jirisan’s beauty, hike to Buril Pokpo (불일폭포). Starting notched into the mountainside, combined from Ssanggye-sa, the mildly challenging with mature trees and a trickling creek, create a pleasant sensory experience. Three trail (2.4km each way, three hours return) winds through a forest along a rippling gates mark the path to the main hall – take creek. About two-thirds along the way, just time to read the signs to appreciate the sym- bolism of your visit. when you’ve noticed the sound of the creek has disappeared, the trail bursts onto an One of the most attractive temples in the open field. At the foot of the falls, there’s a province, it’s a long day trip from Busan. For a relaxed pace, consider an overnight stopo- rocky pool where hikers meditate to regain their chi. ver in Jinju or Hadong and an early morning departure to the temple. There are budget 4 Sleeping rooms and a few restaurants outside the temple entrance. There are nine camping sites (from free to ₩2000): Somakgol; Naewon-sa;

207 Jungsan-ri; Baengmu-dong; Buril Pokpo; Ssanggye-sa, this place has clean rooms Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do  Daeseonggyo; Baemsagol 1; Baemsagol with private bathrooms. It’s a brown-beige 2 and Deokdong. Facilities are basic. Travel- building on a small road off to the right as lers with a camper might try a car camping you walk up to the temple admission gate. space at Naewon-sa, Dalgung and Deok- No English is spoken here. If full, there are dong (from ₩9000). a dozen more minbak (private homes with rooms to rent) in the area. There are eight shelters (₩5000 to ₩8000). From west to east: Nogodan 88 Getting There & Away Piagol, Yeonhacheon, Byeoksoryeong, Seseok, Jangteomok, Rotari and Chib- Buses to Ssanggye-sa often pass through Ha- anmok. Jangteomok has enough space for dong, a small village and useful transfer point 135 bodies, and sells torches, noodles and in the region. If you can’t get a direct bus to drinks. Seseok is the largest shelter, with Ssanggye-sa, travel to Hadong and catch one of space for 190 people. For overnight hikes, the frequent buses to the temple (₩2800, 30 bring bedding, food, tea and coffee, as most minutes, every 30 to 90 minutes). En route to shelters have limited supplies. Ssanggye-sa from Hadong, buses pass a large bridge and shortly thereafter make a quick stop Multi-day treks require a hiking plan in Hwagae; don’t get off there. Further down the and bookings made 15 days in advance – road (usually the next stop), the bus stops in available spots are often booked up within front of a seafood restaurant beside a concrete ­minutes after the reservation period opens bridge. Get out here, cross the bridge and follow during summer, autumn and weekends. the winding road to the park entrance. Buy your Planning, perseverance and a flexible sched- return bus ticket inside the seafood restaurant ule are required if you want to stay at a beside the bridge. The signboard lists times for shelter. Online reservations (page in Korean several destinations, though most travellers are only) can be made at the website of Korea best served by heading to Hadong, where buses National Park Service (http://english. connect to Busan (₩11,000, 2½ hours, hourly) knps.or.kr). and Jinju (₩5000, 1½ hours, every 30 to 45 minutes). Gilson Minbak INN ₩₩ B usa n & Gy eo n gsa n g n a m - d o J irisan N ational Park – E ast (길손민박; %055 884 1336; ondol ₩40,000- 70,000) Not far from the road leading to

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Jeollanam-do Includes  Why Go? Gwangju .....................209 This beautiful southwest province is one of Korea’s least Damyang......................215 d­ eveloped and greenest. The heartland of Jeollanam-do (전 Unju-sa.........................216 라남도) has rolling hills, the towering Sobaek Mountains to Gurye ...........................216 the east and 6100km of coastline to the south and west, with Suncheon more than 2000 islands offshore – less than 300 of which & Around .....................217 are inhabited. The province was largely isolated for centu- Yeosu ...........................218 ries and it retains an off-the-beaten-track feel. It also has Boseong ......................221 a rebel edge, and is proud of its ceramic and artistic tradi- Gangjin ....................... 222 tions, its exiled poets and its prodemocracy martyrs. Haenam ...................... 222 Wando ........................ 223 With a comparatively balmy climate, Jeollanam-do is fa- Mokpo ........................ 225 mous for its bountiful harvests, fresh seafood and green tea, Dadohae Haesang celebrated in several festivals. For all its rural atmosphere, National Park.............. 229 Jeollanam-do has urban elements too: Gwangju, the prov- ince’s largest city, has a hip vibe and an active arts scene centred around a new, much-hyped cultural centre. It’s also more accessible than ever, thanks to a faster KTX line that opened in 2015. Best Places to Eat When to Go ¨¨Dokcheon (p227) Gwangju Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨Wonjo Jangsu 16/400 Tongdak (p223) °C/°F Temp ¨¨Jeonsama (p224) 40/104 ¨¨Yeongran Hoet-jip (p227) 30/86 12/300 Best Places to 20/68 Stay 10/50 8/200 ¨¨Pedro’s House (p212) ¨¨Yuseongwan (p223) 0/32 4/100 ¨¨Sinsiwa (p212) -10/14 -20/-4 JF MAM J J A S OND 0 Jun–Aug Summer Sep The Gwangju Oct The Gwangju is the season for Biennale festival Kimchi Festival ferries to far-flung brings the glam- and the Namdo islands and lazing our of the art Food Festival hap- on sandy beaches. world to town. pen this month.

209 History o­ ther city but its history sets it apart: in 1980 a peaceful prodemocracy demonstration, FarFile f1r6o-jmeollaSnaemo-udlo-kdour1r0ing the Joseon era, known as the May 18 Democratic Uprising, ruJeesloeiCBlgdohloaiakpoatneKrusaoJsrameeoaldd­-l1adiu0nsoumsmidp-wdeioannsgtsga. roTpuhlanecdetfroaordf iptIEenodiitixotiaollriinMCltxaeinpcsp,ionagfolAfaltpinesoondn-L was bruDattea0l6ly/08p/u15t downScbaley theAlltkehy reoands lambelleidl?itary Road liticAauthlor dissent has continued; thMCeCxnps rovince governmDateent. Gwangju Taitlleso haSspotacololuors nremgovehd?isto- Hierarchy wasBordaer hChoatpbteerdOpoefninogp1p/2opsaKiegtyieoNwnoidneto tAhutheor Cmxns ilitary ry coifvhicaDDaasrtteeubpouproirntgfoarrttihsetsNNBaotohoatrpekstntsd. thMaisksingiisn Illrusetraftolredocnet?ed Hydro in Inset/enlargement correct? Hierarchy Symbols Off map dest'ns govBeasrefinle mkoer9nts that ruled South KFionalrEed Caxnsin the 1 Sights & ActivitiesDate KEY FORMAT SETTINGS J eo ll a n a m - d o GS iwgahntgsj&u A c t i v i t i e s 196N0ewsReafernendces ’70s. Students and trade unionists Number of Rows (Lines) led countless prodemocracy prEdoitotr eChsectks and demonstrations, culminating inMC Cthehcke 1980 The muDasteeum district is northwest of down- uprising in Gwangju. As a frreosmuMlCtt/,ChCdeSigenrovfef eglioopn- town. ItDa’ste a 10-minuCotluemnwWidathlskandtMharrginos ugh a tunnel ment funds were withheld under the expressway from the Gwangju for decades, something that is being recti- NationaDalte Museum to the Gwangju Art Mu- fied today with a flurry of new projects. seum and the Gwangju Folk Museum, which are next to each other in a park along with the Biennale Exhibition Hall. Gwangju 광주 Gwangju National Museum MUSEUM % 062 / POP 1.48 MILLION (국립광주박물관; %062 570 7000; http:// gwangju.museum.go.kr; 110 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu; Gwangju (http://utour.gwangju.go.kr), Ko- h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; g48) F The Gwang- rea’s sixth-largest city, may look like any ju National Museum’s collection traces the WEST SEA Songido 3 Damyang Hwaeom-sa (Yellow Sea) Seohaean(West Yeonggwang 6 Gurye Jirisan Expwy National Imjado Gwangju Mudeungsan Park National Park Gwangju Cheonwang-bong Hadong Hampyeong (1187m) Jungdo Naju Jogyesan Jaundo Yiyang Provincial NCaghaunaemu-ph-oseSoenonggsaPa-hrkoSuncheoDnonggwangyang Muan Coast) Naju-ho Muan Unju-sa Dadohae Haesang AOpHeadaetdaaloedMdoookpoYeoHngaaemnamNWaJtaoinolcgnhahuleGlPusaanaBnGMnrgkogausjnisengeojuinnmFgoCleklYaDBVudoaloiswpSlenlouoaonnnggechGDeoaoBhehneeuao-nmnlggHyaonyaYnegoYirsGe-DuoeaousmulmsaonOddodoongdo National Park HHoeunkgsdaoDn(daN5doa4oth(ki3oaJmene3jau)kHl-mdaPoea)s(r;1ak0Hn0gakJjmion)ddooMSJeyiasnBtRedorNoogioaoiludhdswoPardoDWovuirnayncuWidanoSlsaoaPnanadnrokSdoinJjeidjuo-Cdohe(1o0n0gGksmea)ongdeoumCdhoodo(ESaOstUCO00TheHninaYSaroeEodSAnoedao) 20 km 10 miles Jeollanam-do Highlights 1 Visiting Gwangju (p209) of Heuksando (p230) and 6 Eating still-wriggling for its vibrant arts and fabled Hongdo (p229). octopus and seeing sunken nightlife scene, urban hiking 4 Marvelling at the ships in Mokpo (p225). opportunities, and solemn thatched-roofed houses of 7 Watching the sunrise memorials. the immaculately preserved from the seaside hermitage 2 Savouring the scenery fortress town of Naganeup- Hyangir-am (p219). and flavours of the Daehan seong Folk Village (p217). 8 Partaking in the Dawon Tea Plantation 5 Spotting migratory birds mysterious ‘parting of the (p221) in Boseong. feasting in the rich wetlands sea’ phenomenon known as 3 Voyaging to the at Suncheon-man (p217). the Ganjuyuk Gyedo in Jindo scattered, unspoilt islands (p229).

210 66e# B C 0 1 km 66Gwangju 0 A D #æ0.5 miles ÿ# 6 â# 0 200 m #þ20 0 0.1 miles 666666Rainbow 66Pedestrian Bridge MUSEUM â# 4 Honam Expwy e 24 Art St 1 1 DISTRICT 3 #æ # ï# ñ# Geumnamno 4-ga#¡ 2 J eo ll a n a m - d o SGiwgahntgsj&u A c t i v i t i e s â# 5 C#úh1u2#úngì#j1a1n2g-6roò##û17 Jungaÿ#ng-r1o0 25 ì# 6666666662 May 18th #æ 1 Democratic Seoseok-rPola1z3a #ú CHUNGJANG SHOPPING PRECINCT Munhwajeongdang-ro #¡ 666666663 Mudeung-ro DMay 18th National Cemetery (8.6km) Seoamdae-ro BUK-GU ero Dongmun- da Daenamdae-ro #ý18 Seorim- Gwangju 3 Geumnam-ro GeongyangT-aroebo#ú1n4g-ro £# Station ro Wolsan-ro 27 #ï Daenamdae-ro Mudeung-ro ÿ#8 666 62#ï8›#B#ý19us ÿ# 7 Jebong-roGuseong-ro Terminal Jungang-ro #þ 21 #ì 23 DolgoNgAaeM¡#-GUYanMgadrokneGgtw¡#an2þ#gj2u-cheoGneSujDatrmnoegnan-mgarnomim-r-oro¡#JGuneSgueamengnE-narolm›#arngBSo¡#eaum5Gms-eegenjuasiò#tnmfaonæ#e2raDmOnñ#N¡#oÿ#G4--9gGaû#U161ü#5 45 Chung 4 SEO-GU66666Pedro'sHouse(1km); Gwangju Songjeong £# (6km) ¡#Nongseong D 6666665 66A B 66Sujata (3km); MudeungsanD Culture region’s wwcultwuwral history, from its prehistor- National Park (4km) Complex C D put on the Gwangju Biennale, this art mu- ical beginnings through the Joseon period seum shows up-and-coming Korean artists 6(1392–1897), via artifacts, paintings and cal- 66along with more established local names, ligraphy. Look out for the Chinese ceramics salvaged from a 14th-century shipwreck. such as Heo Baek-ryeon (pen name Uijae) Get the bus (20 minutes, every 30 min- and Oh Ji Ho. utes) from in front of the bus terminal or the train station. Take the bus (every 20 minutes) from in front of the bus terminal to the Biennale Ex- hibition Hall stop. Bus 95 (every 15 minutes) also runs here from in front of the Asian Cul- Gwangju Museum of Art MUSEUM ture Complex. (광주시립미술관; %062 613 7100; www.­ artmuse.gjcity.net; 52 Haseo-ro, Buk-gu; adult/ Gwangju Folk Museum MUSEUM child/youth ₩500/200/300; h9am-6pm Tue- (광주민속박물관; %062 613 5337; http:// Sun; g64) Managed by the same folks who gjfm.gwangju.go.kr; 48-25 Seoha-ro, Buk-gu;

211 Gwangju û Drinking & Nightlife J eo ll a n a m - d o SGiwgahntgsj&u A c t i v i t i e s 15 Dadam.......................................................D5 æ Sights 16 Kunst Lounge...........................................D5 1 Asian Culture Complex .......................... D2 17 Speakeasy................................................ D1 2 Daein-sijang............................................. D4 3 Gwangju Biennale ý Entertainment Exhibition Hall........................................B1 18 Gwangju Kia Champions Field...............B3 4 Gwangju Folk Museum............................B1 19 U-Square Culture Centre .......................A3 5 Gwangju Museum of Art ......................... A1 6 Gwangju National þ Shopping Museum ................................................. A1 20 Art Street.................................................. D1 21 E-Mart .......................................................A4 ÿ Sleeping 22 Yangdong-sijang......................................C4 7 Ballade Motel........................................... A3 8 Geumsoojang Tourist ï Information Hotel ...................................................... D3 23 Citibank.....................................................A4 9 Sinsiwa ..................................................... D4 Global ATM.....................................(see 28) 24 Gwangju International Centre ............... D1 10 Windmill Motel ........................................ C2 25 KEB............................................................ D1 26 Standard Chartered First Bank............. D1 ú Eating 27 Tourist Information Centre....................C3 11 Cheongwon Momil...................................D1 28 Tourist Information Centre....................A3 12 First Alleyway ...........................................D1 13 Minsokchon ............................................. D2 14 Yeongmi ................................................... C3 adult/child/youth ₩500/200/300; h9am-6pm Around 250m past Jeungsim-sa, on the Tue-Sun; g64) Learn about traditional life way to the bus stop, is Uijae Museum of in J­eollanam-do through the somewhat Korean Art (의재미술관; %062 222 3040; r­etro-looking dioramas and models here, www.ujam.org; 55 Jeungsimsa-gil, Dong-gu; adult/ which cover everything from kimchi and child ₩2000/1000; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; clothing to courtship rituals and ­shamanism. g9). This art gallery displays the gorgeous landscape, flower and bird paintings by See Gwangju Art Museum transport info. the famed Heo Baek-ryeon (1891–1977), Mudeungsan National Park NATIONAL PARK whose pen name was Uijae. The artist lived (무등산국립공원; %062 265 0761; g1187) in a hermitage here in the shadow of the F Overlooking Gwangju, Mudeungsan m­ ountains. National Park is a gorgeous green moun- tain range with a spider’s web of well-signed The hike takes about five hours; if you’re trails leading to the peak, Cheonwang-bong pressed for time, just visit Jeungsim-sa and (1187m), and up to the towering rocky out- the Uijae Museum. crops Seoseok-dae and Ipseok-dae. Just 30 minutes by bus from central Gwangju, The cleverly named bus 1187 (the height it’s naturally packed on weekends. in metres of Cheonwang-bong) terminates near Wonhyo-sa; you can catch the bus The most popular route starts at the (every 20 minutes) from the bus terminal or temple Wonhyo-sa, which has an ornate in front of the train station. Bus 9 (every 10 pavilion overlooking the park and a bronze minutes) runs to the Jeungsim-sa area from bell dating to 1710. The temple is just up- Geumnam-no 4-ga and the bus terminal. hill from the bus stop. Double back and take the main path 4km up to ­Seoseok-dae May 18th National Cemetery MEMORIAL and Ipseok-dae; it’s steep going as you get towards the top. Then continue down (국립 5.18 민주묘지; %062 266 5187; http://518. through Jangbuljae pass to the temple mpva.go.kr; 200 Minju-ro, Buk-gu; h8am-6pm ­Jeungsim-sa (another 6km), Gwang- Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb; g518) F Opened ju’s oldest temple. It has a Shilla-era iron in 1997, this is the final burial place for vic- Buddha backed by red-and-gold artwork, tims of the May 18 Democratic Uprising of housed in an insignificant-looking shrine 1980, one of the most tragic incidents in behind the main hall. The tiny shrine modern Korean history. Officially, the casu- perched on a rock next to it is dedicated to alties include 228 dead or missing and 4141 the Shamanist Mountain God. wounded, but the real numbers are believed to be much higher. A small but emotion­ ally charged museum shows photographs,

212 blood-stained flags, and a hard-hitting film oPedro’s House GUESTHOUSE ₩ that gives a dramatic account of the trau- (%mobile 010 9592 9993; www.pedroshouse.com; matic events that still scar the country’s po- 18-3 Sangmu-daero 935beon-gil, Seo-gu; dm/d litical landscape. from ₩25,000/50,000; naiW; m­Ssangchon- dong) Gwangju local and veteran traveller On the right, a memorial hall displays Pedro Kim runs this homey guesthouse photographs of the ordinary folk – from stu- filled with books and travel souvenirs. The J eo ll a n a m - d o FGewsatni gvajlus & E v e nts dents to grandmothers – who paid the ulti- rooms (some with private baths) are spot- mate price during the military government’s less, and Kim, who speaks fluent English, crackdown. A five-minute walk through knows pretty much everyone and everything the memorial park leads to the reinstated in the city. Pedro’s is west of the city center, original cemetery, where the victims were on the metro. hurriedly buried without proper ceremony. The bodies were later reinterred in the new Windmill Motel LOVE MOTEL ₩ cemetery. (윈드밀 모텔; %062 223 5333; 150-8 Jun- gang-ro, Dong-gu; r ₩35,000-60,000; paiW) Get the bus (one hour, every 30 minutes) The Windmill, on the west end of the in front of the the bus terminal, train station Chungjang nightlife district, is a local land- or along Geumnam-ro. Asian Culture Complex ARTS CENTRE mark (there’s a windmill on top). The staff (국립아시아문화전당; www.cct.go.kr; mCul- are friendly and the rooms are clean, if not ture Complex) This ambitious arts complex, still under construction at the time of kitschy, and include flat-screen TVs, fridges and water coolers. research, houses galleries, performance spaces, a library and plazas – all designed Ballade Motel MOTEL ₩ (발라드 모텔; %062 366 3307; 11 Jukbong-daero to boost Gwangju’s capital in the art 78beon-gil, Seo-gu; r ₩35,000-45,000; paiW) world. It’s located on the main site of the May 18 Uprising; the old Provincial Hall The pick of the bunch near the bus terminal, Ballade has rooms kitted out with a sofa, building, the target of the protests, has large TV and PCs. Prices jump by ₩10,000 been retained. on the weekend. It’s 500m east of the Shinse- z Festivals & Events gae Department Store. Gwangju Kimchi Festival FOOD Sinsiwa HANOK GUESTHOUSE ₩₩ (http://kimchi.gwangju.go.kr) Every October, (신시와; %062 233 2755; http://cafe.naver.com/ Gwangju hosts a five-day kimchi (pickled sinsiwaguesthouse; 81-3 Chungjang-ro, Dong-gu; vegetables) extravaganza with a fairground, d/q from ₩50,000/100,000; nW) Park Sung- market stalls, pottery making, folk music hyun, one-time curator of the Gwangju and a hanbok (traditional clothing) fash- Biennale, restored this 60-year-old hanok ion show. Shuttle buses run to the often-­ (traditional wooden home) himself, opening changing venue. it as a guesthouse in 2015. The three rooms Gwangju Biennale ART (two with private baths) are simple yet beau- tiful, decorated with an ever-changing dis- (www.gb.or.kr) This three-month contempo- play of works by local artists. rary art festival takes place every two years (due to be held in autumn 2016). Based at Geumsoojang Tourist Hotel HOTEL ₩₩ the Biennale Exhibition Hall (111 Biennale-ro, (금수장 관광 호텔; %062 525 2111; www.geum- Buk-gu; g64), it features more than 500 art- soojang.co.kr; 2 Mudeung-ro, 321 beon-gil, Dong-gu; ists and foreign curators from 60 countries. r ₩110,000-240,000; paW) Classy in a retro On odd-numbered years, the city holds the sort of way, this hotel near the train station Design Biennale. has English-speaking staff and comfortable 4 Sleeping rooms. Book online for a 50% discount. The in-house restaurant serves up a delicious The downtown Chungjang nightlife district rendition of the Korean hanjeonsik (ban- has a handful of love motels and there are quet; ₩50,000). more basic options around the bus terminal. Eating 5New luxury hotels such as the Holiday Inn and Ramada are in the Sangmu district near Both the bus terminal and Shinsegae City Hall. d­ epartment store have food courts.

213 Cheongwon Momil NOODLES ₩ NAMDO FOOD (청원모밀; %062 222 2210; 174-1 Jungang-ro, Dong-gu; noodles from ₩5000; h10.30am- Tell any Korean you’re going to Jeollan- 8.30pm; mGeumnamno 4-ga) This humble am-do and they’ll likely tell you to enjoy noodle shop, which specialises in momil the food. Of particular note are the sea- (모밀; buckwheat noodles) is a Gwangju in- food dishes: local specialities include stitution, in business since 1960 (as the sign seodae-hoe (서대회, thin slices of raw out front proudly boasts). Dishes to try in- fish marinated in makgeolli vinegar and J eo ll a n a m - d o DG wr iannkgi njgu clude bibim-momil (비빔모밀; buckwheat chilli paste) in Yeosu and nakji tangtangi noodles in spicy sauce) and momil-jjajang (낙지탕탕이; chopped live octopus) (모밀짜장; buckwheat noodles in black soy- in Mokpo. The brave can sample the bean sauce). hongeo samhap (홍어삼합; fermented skate, pork belly and kimchi) on Heuk- Sujata VEGETARIAN ₩₩ sando; skate is notorious for its heavy (수자타; %062 222 1145; 3 Dongsan-gil 7beon-gil, ammonia scent which draws a distinct Dong-gu; meals ₩8000; h11.30am-8.30pm; v; line between lovers and haters. The g15, mHakdong/Jeungsimsa) Run by Buddhist best way to sample the delights of the monks, Sujata puts on what is possibly the province, however, is to visit in October world’s best salad bar. It includes soups, for the annual Namdo Food Festival stews, noodles, a dozen different greens, (www.namdofood.or.kr, in Korean). The countless pickled things, a make-your-own location changes every year. bibimbap (rice, egg and vegies with chilli sauce) section and even cake. It’s all vege- tarian, but even non-vegies will get their fill here: it’s all you can eat. famous. It’s pricey, but dishes are meant for Look for the red building halfway be- sharing. tween the Uijae Museum of Korean Art and the Hakdong/Jeungsimsa subway station. 6 Drinking Minsokchon KOREAN ₩₩ Chungjang-ro, the city’s buzzing, semi­ (민속촌; %062 224 4577; 16-10 Jungang-ro pedestrian shopping district, is also Gwang- 160beon-gil, Dong-gu; meals ₩8000-18,000; ju’s prime nightlife spot with hundreds of h11.30am-midnight; mCulture Complex) Deserv- bars, nightclubs, restaurants and cafes. edly popular, Minsokchon serves up lean Dadam TEAHOUSE cuts of so galbi (소갈비; beef) and dwaeji galbi (돼지갈비; pork), set to sizzle over (다담; 062 236 3606; 200-9 Dongmyeong-ro, Dong-gu; drinks from ₩5000; h11am-11pm; charcoal braziers set into the tables. It has mCulture Complex) Among all the cafes in a stylish, rustic interior; look for the tradi- tional facade. town Dadam stands out for serving tea – all kinds of traditional Korean teas, from the medicinal ssanghwatang to the fruity First Alleyway INTERNATIONAL ₩₩ sujeonggwa. There are traditional desserts (%mobile 070 4127 8066; 5-4 Chungjang-ro an-gil, Dong-gu; meals ₩10,000-13,000; hnoon-9.30pm too, such as rice cakes and sweet bean soup. There’s another outpost attached to the Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri, to midnight Sat, 11am-8pm Gwangju Art Museum. Sun; mGeumnamno 4-ga) Longtime expat Tim Whitman leads the kitchen here, turning out burgers, pizzas and – as befitting a Canadian Kunst Lounge LOUNGE – poutine. There’s Sunday brunch, too. First (%062 223 0009; www.kunst-lounge.com; 4 Dongmyeong-ro, Dong-gu; drinks from ₩8000; Alleyway naturally draws an international h10am-midnight Mon-Sat; bCulture Complex) crowd. It’s a few doors down from H&M. Gwangju’s most sophisticated spot does wine by the glass, German beers and a fan- Yeongmi KOREAN ₩₩₩ tastic cheese platter. Located across from (영미; %062 527 0249; 126 Gyeongyang-ro, Buk- gu; meals ₩28,000-48,000; h10.30am-2am, the new Asian Culture Complex, Kunst has a suitably artsy vibe. closed first Mon) There’s a whole string of restaurants specialising in oritang (오리탕; duck stew) along the aptly named Duck St, Speakeasy BAR but this 80-year-old joint, which seasons its (%mobile 010 4713 3825; 160 Jungang-ro, 31-31beon-gil, Dong-gu; drinks ₩6000-8000; stew with ginseng and jujube, is the most h8pm-3am Thu-Sun; mGeumamno 4-ga) This

214 7 Shopping DAEIN-SIJANG Chungjang is bursting with youth-oriented clothing, shoes and accessory stores. By the early 2000s, Daein-sijang (대 인시장; 10 Jebong-ro 184beon-gil, Dong- Art Street STREET gu; h 6am-8pm; m Geumnamno 4-ga), a traditional market in the city centre, (예술의 거리; Yesurui Geori; mGeumnamno was nearly shuttered. ‘A new shopping 4-ga) This cobblestone road is lined with art J eo ll a n a m - d o EGnwtaenrgtjaui nm e nt mall had opened nearby. People didn’t galleries, studios and stores selling hanbok, want to shop at traditional markets hanji (handmade paper), art books, calligra- anymore. Now over 50 artists have phy brushes and tea sets. their studios here,’ explains Cho Se- ung-ki, director of the NPO Mite-Ugro Yangdong-sijang MARKET (www.mite-ugro.org), which runs an artist residency program inside the (양동시장; 238 Cheonbyeonjwa-ro, Seo-gu; market. h9am-9pm; mYangdong Market) Voted Korea’s best traditional market, sprawling Yangdong Daein Market’s revival was part of sells just about everything, from traditional the 2008 Gwangju Biennale, which medicines to clothing. saw artists add murals to the market walls; cheap rents encouraged them to E-Mart HYPERMARKET stay. Of course there are still tradition- al stalls too, side-by-side with newer (20-11 Gwangju-daero 71beon-gil, Seo-gu; cafes and galleries. There’s a night h10am-midnight) Stock up on cheap food, market here on the fourth Friday and drinks and supplies. Saturday of the month, June through October. 88 Information 2nd-floor bar hidden down an alley is a fa- Tourist Information Centres Bus terminal vourite with foreigners and has a good se- (% 062 365 8733; bus terminal; h 9am-6pm); lection of imported beers. Bands sometimes Gwangju airport (% 062 942 6160; Gwangju play on Fridays or Saturdays. From the front airport; h 9am-6pm); train station (% 062 233 of Burger King go left for 40m and down the 9370; train station; h 9am-6pm). alleyway. Gwangju International Centre (%062 226 2733; www.eng.gic.or.kr; Samho Center 1-2F, 3 Entertainment 196 Jungang-ro, 5beon-gil, Dong-gu; h9am- 6pm Mon-Sat; mGeunamno 4-ga) This expat organisation offers guidebooks, tourist infor- mation, Korean-language classes, tours and social events. The U-Square Culture Centre (유·스퀘어 88 Getting There & Away 문화관; www.usquareculture.co.kr; 904 Mujin-­ daero, Seo-gu), adjoining the bus terminal, AIR houses cinemas and performance halls. Eight Gwangju–Seoul and 10 Gwangju–Jeju flights run daily; for the latter, look for budget Gwangju Kia Champions Field BASEBALL flights on the new T’Way Airlines (www.twayair. (광주기아챔피언스필드; %062 525 5350; com). www.tigers.co.kr; 10 Seorim-ro, Buk-gu; tickets from ₩7000; g38) Catch the Kia Tigers pro- BUS fessional baseball team in action from April Express and intercity buses to more than through November at their new stadium. 100 destinations depart from the U-Square Stock up on snacks from the street vendors complex, 1km north of the Nongseong subway outside the stadium, where prices are cheap- station. er. You’re permitted to bring in food, beer, TRAIN coolers and cameras. Games usually start at KTX trains (₩46,800, two hours, eight daily) run 5pm or 6.30pm. between Yongsan station and the new Gwang- Get the bus from in front of the bus ter- ju-Songjeong station on the west side of the city. minal; or you can walk from there in 20 saemaeul (₩34,300, four hours, four daily) and minutes (or in 30 minutes from Nongseong mugunghwa (₩23,000, 4½ hours, four daily) metro station). trains run to the older, more central Gwangju

215 station. Trains also continue to Mokpo and Yeo- Damyang J eo ll a n a m - d o GD Ae tMtYiAnNgGA round su from both stations. Damyang (http://eng.damyang.go.kr/index. 88 Getting Around damyang) is famous for its bamboo and has a long tradition of bamboo craftwork. TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Sadly few artisans remain today, though Bus 1000 (30 minutes, every 15 minutes) the spirit of former times returns in May for runs from the airport to the bus terminal and the ­annual bamboo festival (www.bamboo G­ eumnam-ro. You can also take the metro. A taxi ­festival.co.kr). costs around ₩12,000. 1 Sights BUS Gwangju has more than 80 city bus routes, and Juknokwon GARDENS most run past the bus terminal with bus stops on all sides. Bus 30 (20 minutes, every 15 minutes) (죽녹원; %061 380 2680; 119 Juknok-ro; adult/ runs between the bus terminal and Gwangju child/youth ₩2000/1000/1500; h9am-6pm; train station. City buses cost ₩1200. g311) Sandy walking trails wend through this bamboo grove, past pavilions and film METRO locations for Korean dramas. It’s one of the Currently there is one line that stretches west area’s most popular attractions and can get to the airport and Gwangju-Songjeong station. crowded on weekends. But if you get a quiet A single ride is ₩1200; trains run from 5.30am moment – enough to hear the wind rustle until midnight. the leaves – it can be enchanting. TAXI Korea Bamboo Museum MUSEUM Flagfall is ₩2800. The YMCA is an easy drop-off spot for points downtown. (한국대나무박물관; %061 380 2909; www. damyang.go.kr/museum; 35 Jukhyangmun- hwa-ro; adult/child/youth ₩2000/1000/1500; BUS DEPARTURES FROM GWANGJU Express Bus Destinations DESTINATION PRICE (₩) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY Busan 16,800 3½ hourly Daegu 13,500 3½ every 40min Daejeon 11,100 2½ every 30min Incheon Airport 32,300 4½ every 30min Jeonju 6600 1¼ every 30min Seoul 17,600 4 every 10min Intercity Bus Destinations FREQUENCY every 30min DESTINATION PRICE (₩) DURATION every 30min Beolgyo 8900 1½hr hourly Boseong 8400 1½hr every 40min Gangjin 9800 1½hr hourly Haenam 11,100 1½hr every 20min Jindo 12,200 3hr 5 daily Mokpo 5700 50min every 30min Songgwang-sa 7500 1½hr hourly Suncheon 6900 1½hr hourly Wando 16,500 2½hr every 30min Yeongam 6900 1½hr Yeosu 10,300 2hr

216 1 Sights SAMJINAE VILLAGE Unju-sa TEMPLE South Korea may have developed at a breakneck speed, but it was also the (운주사; %061 374 0660; www.unjusa.org; 91- first Asian country to sign on to the 44 Cheontae-ro, Doam-myeon; adult/child/youth international cittaslow, or ‘slow city’ ₩3000/1000/2000; h8am-7pm Mar-Oct, to movement. One such city, or village 6pm Nov-Feb; g218, 318-1) Legend has it that rather, is Samjinae (삼지내마을; also U­nju-sa originally housed 1000 Buddhas called Changpyeong Slow City; http://J eo ll a n a m - d o UEaNtJiUn-gS A and 1000 pagodas, built because, accord- eng.slowcp.com), population 4105. ing to traditional geomancy, the southwest There’s little to do here but wander the of the country lacked hills and needed the dusty lanes, lined with centuries-old pagodas to ‘balance’ the peninsula. The re- stone walls, past homesteads and herit- maining 23 pagodas and some 100 Buddhas age houses – but that’s the point. There still make up the greatest numbers of any are a handful of minbak (rooms for Korean temple. Some are set on the hill- rent in private houses; from ₩50,000) sides, which you can scale. here. The tourist information centre in According to another legend they were all Gwangju can arrange your stay. built in one night by stonemasons sent down from heaven, but another theory is that Samjinae is in the direction of U­ nju-sa was the site of a school for stone- Damyang. Take bus 303 (hourly; 40 masons. Whatever their origins, many works minutes, ₩1750) from Daein Gwang- are unique and some are national treasures. jang and get off at Changpyeong Police Back-to-back twin Buddhas face their own Station, where you’ll see a sign noting pagodas, while another pair of Buddhas ly- the entrance to the village. Alternative- ing on their backs are said to have been the ly you can take a taxi from Damyang last works sculpted one evening; the masons bus terminal (approximately ₩20,000). returned back to heaven before the Buddhas could be stood upright. h­ 9am-6pm; g311) Lightweight and durable, 88 Getting There & Away bamboo can be made into pretty much any- thing – as you’ll see at this museum, which is Buses run from Gwangju bus terminal (₩3650, basically a showroom for bamboo products, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes). Check with the both traditional and modern. driver as only some of the buses go all the way to Unju-sa. The last bus back to Gwangju leaves 5 Eating around 8pm. Bakmulgwan Ap-jip KOREAN ₩₩ 구례 (박물관앞집; %061 381 199; 22 Jukhyangmun- hwa-ro; meals ₩12,000-25,000; h10am-9.30pm; Gurye Gurye is the gateway to the southwest en- g311) Damyang’s signature dish is daetong- trance of Jirisan National Park. While the bap (대통밥), rice and nuts cooked inside a bamboo stem. Try it here, across the street bulk of this park lies in the neighbouring province of Gyeongsangnam-do it is best ap- from the Korea Bamboo Museum. The proached from this direction if you plan to spread of side dishes is huge. visit Hwaeom-sa, one of Korea’s top ­temples. 88 Getting There & Away 1 Sights The bus (₩2800, 40 minutes, every 15 minutes) Hwaeom-sa TEMPLE departs from Gwangju bus terminal. Stay on until the end (past Damyang bus terminal) for (화엄사; %061 782 7600; www.hwaeomsa.org; Juknokwon; the Korea Bamboo Museum is one 539 Hwaeomsa-ro, Masan-myeon; adult/child/youth stop before Damyang bus terminal. It’s about a ₩3500/1300/1800; h7am-7.30pm) Founded by 30-minute walk between the two sights. priest Yeongi in AD 544 after his return from India, this ancient temple dedicated to the Birojana Buddha is enveloped by the beauti- ful natural surroundings of Jirisan National Unju-sa Park. Last rebuilt in 1636, it has endured five major devastations in its history, including The temple compound Unju-sa occupies a the Japanese invasion of 1592. river valley and its hillsides in Hwasun-gun, 40km south of Gwangju.

217 On the main plaza is Gakgwang-jeon, a Suncheon e# 0 200 m huge two-storey hall. Inside are paintings 0 0.1 miles that are national treasures, nearly 12m long and 7.75m wide, featuring Buddhas, disci- Jangmyeong-ro Suncheon ples and assorted holies. Korea’s oldest and Guesthouse largest stone lantern fronts Gakgwang-jeon, 6Suncheon which was once surrounded by stone tablets City Hall Namdo of the Tripitaka Sutra (made during the Shil- Jungang-sijang ÿ# la era). These were ruined during the Japa- (400m) J eo ll a n a m - d o GS ue nttcihnegoTnh&e rAero&uAnwday nese invasion. D Gangnam-ro Up many further flights of stairs is Hwae- Jungang 1-gil Jangcheon 1-gil om-sa’s most famous structure, Sasaja Samcheung (사사자 삼층석탑), a unique 6·/22 Tourist three-storey pagoda supported by four stone Information lions. The female figure beneath the pagoda IsuY-reooSBntoguú#pbsu›#nPSsaiuklnTmcehrame-C›#orieonnn#ïaBtlrues is said to be Yongi’s mother; her dutiful son DSuncheon£#(1km) offers her tea from another lantern facing her. At the time of research, it was closed for inscribed on the Ramsar list of protected restoration. wetlands, you can follow walkways through rustling reeds up to an observation hut on a The temple is about 25 minutes’ walk neighbouring hill – a popular sunset viewing from the bus stop. Templestays (₩40,000) spot. Birdwatchers should be on the lookout are possible at Hwaeom-sa. A large tourist for hooded cranes, black-faced spoonbills village is at the park entrance with a number and swans, all of which stop by during their of restaurants and affordable accommoda- migrations. tion, but prices rise on weekends. If you’d like to get closer to the wild- It is possible to continue from the t­ emple, life, take a birdwatching boat (adult/child along a trail through Hwaeom-sa Valley. Af- ₩7000/2000, 35 minutes, six daily Sunday ter about 2½ to three hours the trail begins to Tuesday). There’s also a museum with ex- to ascend to a shelter, Nogodan Sanjang (a hibitions on the local ecology. Buses (₩1200, strenuous four-hour hike, p206). From the 20 minutes) leave every 25 minutes from shelter, the trail continues to rise until you Suncheon bus terminal. are finally on the long spine of the Jirisan ridge. Naganeup-seong 88 Getting There & Away Folk Village HISTORIC SITE Buses (₩1300, 15 minutes, every 30 minutes) (낙안읍성민속마을; %061 749 3893; 30 run between Hwaeom-sa and Gurye. From Gurye Chungmn-gil, Nagan-myeon; adult/child/youth buses run to Suncheon (₩4200, 50 minutes, ₩4000/1500/2500; h9am-5pm Dec-Jan, 9am- every 40 minutes) or Gwangju (₩7800, 1¼ 6pm Feb-Apr & Nov, 8.30am-6.30pm May-Oct; hours, every 30 minutes). Reserved-seat ex- g63) Among Korea’s many folk villages, Na- press buses (₩8500, 1½ hours, five daily) also gan is unique for its setting, surrounded by run to Hwaeom-sa from Gwangju. Suncheon & Around 순천 1410m of Joseon-period fortress walls, built to protect the inhabitants from marauding The southern city of Suncheon (http://tour. Japanese pirates. It’s Korea’s best-preserved suncheon.go.kr) is a convenient base for fortress town, crammed with narrow, dry- exploring several of the region’s highlights, stone alleyways leading to vegetable allot- i­ncluding the wetlands at Suncheon-man, ments, and adobe and stone homes thatched the Nagan Folk Village and the temples in- with reeds. What’s perhaps most interesting, side Jogye-san Provincial Park. however, is that people still live here. Some homes double as minbak (private 1 Sights homes with rooms for rent, from ₩40,000), restaurants and souvenir shops. Buses Suncheon-man NATURE RESERVE (₩1200, 40 minutes) leave every 90 minutes (순천만; %061 749 3006; www.suncheonbay. from Suncheon bus terminal. go.kr; adult/child/youth ₩7000/3000/5000; h8am-6pm; g67) At this coastal estuary,

218 Jogyesan Provincial Park PARK minal (turn right at Samoa Motel), Namdo (조계산도립공원; %061 749 8801) This makes for an excellent base. Amenities in- park is home to two noteworthy temples, clude cooking and laundry facilities. A col- S­ onggwang-sa (송광사; %061 755 0107; www. ourful mural marks the entrance. songgwangsa.org; 12 Sinpyeong-ri, Songgwang-­ myeon; adult/child ₩3000/2000; h6am-7pm Yeongbunsik KOREAN ₩ Mar-Oct, 7am-6pm Nov-Feb; g111) to the west (영분식; %061 742 0933; 16 Isu-ro; meals ₩5000- and Seonam-sa (선암사; %061 754 9117; www. 6500; h11am-9pm) A favourite with local taxi J eo ll a n a m - d o SY el oe espui ng & Eat i ng seonamsa.net; 802 Jukak-ri, Seungju-eup; adult/ drivers, Yeongbunsik does big portions of child/youth ₩2000/1000/1500; h6am-7.30pm hearty staples such as doenjang-jjigae (된 Jun-Sep, 7am-7pm Oct-May; g1) to the east. A 장찌개; tofu soup), dolsot bibimbap (돌솥 spectacular 8km hike (about four hours) con- 비빔밥; bibimbap in a stone hotpot), and nects the two temples. You can also take a de- donkkaseu (돈까스; breaded pork cutlet). tour over the peak of Janggun-bong (884m). The restaurant is one block behind the bus terminal, on the left, with a red sign. Songgwang-sa is considered one of the three jewels of Korean Buddhism (along with Tongdo-sa and Haein-sa, in Gyeong- 88 Information sangnam-do). Featured in the Little Monk There is a tourist information centre inside the movie, it is a regional head temple of the bus terminal (% 061 749 3839; h9am-6pm) Jogye sect, by far the largest in Korean Bud- and in front of the train station (% 061 749 dhism. It is also one of the oldest Zen tem- 3107; h 9am-6pm). The city runs reasonably ples in Korea, founded in the 10th century, priced tours, with different schedules daily although most of the buildings date from taking in some of the major sights, meaning the 17th century. Songgwang-sa is known you won’t have to keep doubling back to the bus for having produced many prominent Zen terminal. Inquire at the TIC. masters over the years, and today the temple 88 Getting There & Around is home to a community of monks. A tem- plestay (₩50,000) is available here. KTX trains run from Yongsan in Seoul to Seonam-sa is a quieter hermitage dating Suncheon (₩43,000, two hours, nine daily); there are also saemaeul (₩37,800, 4¼ hours, back to AD 875, where the monks study two daily) and mugunghwa (₩25,400, 4½ and try to preserve the old ways. Below hours, 10 daily). Trains continue to Yeosu (KTX/ S­ eonam-sa is Seungseongyo, one of Ko- saemaeul/mugunghwa ₩8400/4800/2600, 20 rea’s most exquisite ancient granite bridges, minutes). One mugunghwa train at 9.59am trav- with a dragon’s head hanging from the top els to Mokpo (₩12,000, 3¼ hours). of the arch. The intercity bus terminal is in the centre of Buses leave approximately every 45 min- town. Local buses depart from Palma-ro, in front utes to Seonam-sa (₩1200, one hour) and of the bus terminal. Songgwang-sa (₩1200, 1½ hours) from Suncheon bus terminal; there are also di- rect buses to Sonngwang-sa from Gwangju (₩1700, 1½ hours, five daily). Yeosu 여수 % 061 / POP 291,000 4 Sleeping & Eating The molar-shaped, port city of Yeosu (www. yeosu.go.kr) is halfway along Korea’s steep, Suncheon Guesthouse Namdo HOSTEL ₩ island-pocked and deeply indented southern (순천게스트하우스 남도; %010 4356 3255; coast. Its bustling city centre is nothing spe- http://namdogeha.com; 30-17 Jangcheon 2-gil; dm cial, but its shoreline, peppered with cliffs, ₩20,000; naiW) In a rambling old house islands and peninsulas, is spectacular. The a few minutes’ walk north of the bus ter- local hero is Admiral Yi Sun-shin (1545–98), BUS DEPARTURES FROM SUNCHEON DESTINATION PRICE (₩) DURATION FREQUENCY Gwangju 6900 1½hr every 30min Haenam 13,200 2¼hr hourly Mokpo 9000 1½hr hourly Yeosu 4400 30min every 10min

219 e# 6666666Jogyesan Provincial Park 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles Gwangju Yeo(n8s5a1nm-b)ong (52km) D R #› Bus Stop J eo ll a n a m - d o YS ei gohstus 6666666/·834 #ÚSonggwang-sa Janggu(n8-8b4omng)R Ruins of Hyangno-am #ä Monastery Pagodaæ# æ# Seonam-sa æ# Suncheon Seungseongyo Namamjae D(24km) (537m) Bus Stop #› R 6666666ÿ#Shelter who repelled Japanese invaders with his island is joined to the mainland by a 750m ‘turtle ships’. You’ll see statues of him, and causeway that can be traversed by a road 6666666replicas of the ships, around town; he’s also train (adult/child ₩800/500; every 20 minutes; on the ₩100 coin. In 2012 Yeosu hosted the h9am to 5.30pm). World’s Fair International Exposition (called Buses stop at the causeway entrance; oth- Expo 2012), which resulted in a redevelop- erwise it’s a pleasant 30-minute walk along ment of the waterfront. the coast from Jungang-dong Rotary. 1 Sights Jinnamgwan HISTORIC BUILDING Hyangir-am TEMPLE (진남관; 11 Dongmun-ro; h9am-6pm) F In the centre of town stands this national (향일암; %061 644 3650; 60 Hyangiram-ro, treasure, Korea’s largest single-storey wood- ­Dolsan-eup; adult/child/youth₩2000/1000/1500; hdawn-dusk; g111, 113) A Buddhist hermit- en structure (75m long and 14m high). The beautiful pavilion, first constructed in 1599 age with a 1350-year heritage, Hyangir-am with 68 pillars supporting its massive roof, has an enviable location perched halfway up a mountain at the tip of Dolsando, an was originally used for receiving officials and for holding ceremonies. Jinnamgwan island connected to Yeosu by a bridge. It’s is set to undergo restorations sometime be- stunning anytime of day, but is most en- chanting at sunrise, when you can watch tween 2015 and 2018, so may be closed when you visit. daybreak over the ocean while listening to On the right, a small but modern muse- the monks chant. Buses (one hour; ₩1200) to Hyangir-am start around 4.30am to ar- um focuses on Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545–98) and has maps explaining his naval tactics rive in time for first light; pick up a sched- and victories over Japan in the 1590s. ule at the TIC. It’s a steep 10-minute walk from the bus stop through the tourist village up to the Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea temple. Every restaurant along the way sells Memorial Hall MUSEUM gatkimchi (갓김치; pickled mustard leaves), (1 Bangnamhoe-gil; adult/child ₩3000/2000; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; g2, 6, 7, 333) Originally a local speciality. the Korea Pavilion for Yeosu’s 2012 World’s Fair International Exposition, this muse- Odongdo ISLAND um showcases the latest in Korean mari- (오동도; %061 690 7301; g2, 52, 61, 555) This time technology, such as tidal-wave power small, craggy island, a favourite destination for locals, is covered in bamboo groves and ­generators. camellia trees. Walking paths wend round 4 Sleeping the island in about half an hour. Take the lift up to the lighthouse observatory (9.30am There’s a cluster of budget and midrange to 5.30pm) for the best harbour views. The hotels around the harbour. Newer midrange

220 Yeosu e# 0 500 m A 0 0.25 miles 66661 B C D Nice Bank (650m); Yeosu #– (15km) 1 Dongm Tourist Information 3 Centre (650m); Shopping uÿ#n-r6o D £#(650m) Precinct â# 11 ›# Dongmun-ro #ì DChun Ekseupodae-ro w w Jungaÿ#ng-ro ›# 10 9 ›# Jungang- 4 dong Rotary 0 200 m 66660 0.1 miles D gmin-ro J eo ll a n a m - d o SY el oe espui ngf# Yeosu›#(4km)D â# 1 Jinnam-ro2Chungmu-ro Odong Expo 2 Narsha Tourist 2012 Site ÿ# 5 ò# 6666666Hotel(6km) Jungang-ro Wooribank ì# do-ro #ï ngmun-ro ñ# DTourist Hamel-ro w D Do Information Odongdo Centre (800m) 8 See Enlargement w Jasan 66663 #ú 7 Park 2 æ# f# ú# 12 3 Jonghw a-ro Harbour Dolsando (2km) ABCD 6666Yeosu æ Sights ú Eating 1 Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea Memorial 7 Gubaek Sikdang ......................................A3 Hall......................................................... D2 8 Gyodong-sijang........................................A3 2 Fish Market.............................................. A3 3 Jinnamgwan ............................................. A1 ï Transport 9 Airport Shuttle Stop................................ A1 ÿ Sleeping 10 Buses to Bus Terminal & Train 4 Motel Sky .................................................. A1 Station ................................................... B1 5 MVL Hotel ................................................ D2 11 Buses to Hyangiram ............................... A1 6 Yeosu Guesthouse Flying Pig.................B1 12 Ferry Terminal .........................................A3 hotels can be found along the waterfront in spot on the Hak-dong waterfront strip, this Hak-dong. solid midrange option is the most inviting, with helpful English-speaking staff and Yeosu Guesthouse Flying Pig HOSTEL ₩ comfortable, well-appointed rooms, some (여수게스트하우스; %061 666 1122; http:// with sea views. yeosuhouse.com/xe; 16 Dongmun-ro; dm ₩20,000; naiW) The location here is fantastic, right in the centre of town. There Motel Sky MOTEL ₩₩ (모텔스카이; %061 662 7780; 5-5 Gyodongnam are a few quirks, such as the steep stairs 1-gil; r ₩50,000-60,000; aiW) A friend- and cramped shared bathrooms. On the ly welcome awaits you at this dated but other hand, there’s free breakfast and the well-maintained motel. The 6th floor has English-speaking owner is friendly and the best views and more expensive rooms helpful. have computers. Narsha Tourist Hotel HOTEL ₩₩ MVL Hotel HOTEL ₩₩₩ (나르샤 관광호텔; %061 686 2000; www. (%061 660 5800; www.mvlhotel.com; 111 narshahotel.com; 200-24 Hak-dong; r ₩90,000- O­ dongdo-ro; r from ₩225,000; pnaiW) The 120,000; paiW) Though not the cheapest glossy ‘Most Valuable Life’ hotel (really!) has

221 ultramodern rooms with plush beds and bay (₩36,600, 2½ hours) at 7.40am and 1.40pm, J eo ll a n a m - d o EBaotsienogn&g D r i nk i ng views. and for Sado (₩11,500, 1½ hours) at 6am and 2.20pm. 5 Eating & Drinking BUS The harbour front is loaded with restaurants The express bus terminal and intercity bus ter- serving fresh fish and seafood, although minal are together, 4km north of the port area. none are cheap. A row of new restaurants Cross the pedestrian overpass to Pizza Hut and and bars surround Soho Yacht Marina in from the bus stop, almost any bus (₩1200, 15 Hak-dong. minutes) goes to Jungang-dong Rotary. Gubaek Sikdang KOREAN ₩₩ TRAIN (구백식당; %061 662 0900; 18 Yeogaekseonte- Yeosu Expo station is the terminus for KTX omineol-gil; meals ₩12,000-25,000; h7am-8pm) trains running on the Jeolla line from Yongsan S­ eodae-hoe (서대회; thin slices of raw fish (₩46,000, 3½ hours, nine daily). There are also marinated in makgeolli (rice wine) vinegar saemaeul (₩39,300, 4½ hours, one daily) and and chilli paste) is a local speciality and this mugunghwa (₩26,400, five hours, nine daily) restaurant is famous for it. To eat it, mix the services. fish with the rice and stir. Saengseongui (생 선구이; grilled fish) is another good bet. The 88 Getting Around ajumma (married or older women) staff are friendly and used to dealing with foreigners. BUS The most useful bus for getting around is no 2, Gyodong-sijang STREET FOOD ₩₩ which stops at Yeosu Expo station, Jinnamgwan (교동시장; meals ₩15,000-30,000) In the and Odongdo. evening, this market fills with ‘covered wag- ons’ – makeshift eating and drinking joints. TAXI Several serve haemul bokkeum (해물볶음, Fares start at ₩2800. It’s roughly a 15-­minute, ₩30,000), a huge two-person (or more) as- ₩10,000 taxi ride from central Yeosu to sorted seafood and vegetable sauté, set to ­Hak-dong. bubble at your table. Boseong 보성 88 Information % 061 Tourist Information Centre (% 061 690 2588; Boseong (http://english.boseong.go.kr/ h 9am-9pm) The biggest of the tourist infor- index.boseong), famous as Korea’s largest mation centres is in front of the train station producer of green tea, is the gateway to the and usually has an English speaker. Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation. In May, Bo- 88 Getting There & Away seong hosts the Green Tea Festival (http:// dahyang.boseong.go.kr/index.boseong). AIR Yeosu airport, 17km north of the city, has flights 1 Sights & Activities to Seoul and Jeju-do. An airport shuttle (₩3000, 40 minutes) runs from Jungang-dong Rotary; Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation GARDENS buses are timed to meet departures. (대한다원; %061 853 2595; 763-65 Nokcha-ro; adult/child ₩3000/2000; h9am-6pm) One of BOAT Korea’s most iconic sights, the Boseong Dae- The ferry pier for island ferries is at the western han Dawon Tea Plantation is spectacularly end of the harbour. Ferries leave for Geomundo set on a hillside covered with curvy row af- ter row of manicured green-tea bushes. It’s BUS DEPARTURES FROM YEOSU DESTINATION PRICE (₩) DURATION FREQUENCY Busan 14,000 3hr hourly Gwangju 10,300 1½hr every 30min Mokpo 13,000 3hr hourly Seoul 30,800 4hr hourly Suncheon 4400 30min every 30min

222 look startlingly contemporary. At the back a popular setting for TV dramas and films. are pottery workshops (Monday to Friday), Spring, when the leaves are at their green- where visitors can watch artisans at work est, is the most congenial time to visit. on various processes. On the right is an ex- At the plantation’s restaurant you can cavated kiln site, discovered in 1968, that sample green-tea infused dishes (₩5000 to dates back to the 12th century. The muse- ₩8000) and drinks. um and shops outside sell modern-made Goryeo celadon (the Seoul airport sells J eo ll a n a m - d o G eatntgijnign T h e r e & A round Korea Tea Museum MUSEUM similar pieces for 10 times the price). The Gangjin Ceramic Festival is held here (한국차박물관; %061 852 0918; www.ko- during midsummer. reateamuseum.kr; 775 Nokcha-ro; adult/child ₩1000/500; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Here you 88 Getting There & Away can learn more than you ever thought you needed to know about tea, both in Korea The museum is 18km south of Gangjin. Take a and around the world, and also take part in local bus from Gangjin bus terminal for Maryang a traditional tea service (₩2000). The muse- and get off at the museum (₩1800, 25 minutes, um is a 1km walk up the hill from the park- every 40 minutes). ing lot behind the bus station. To get to Gangjin, hop on one of the buses Yulpo Haesu Nokchatang BATHHOUSE running every 30 to 60 minutes along the southern coast from Suncheon (₩10,800, two (율포 해수 녹차탕; %061 853 4566; 678 hours) or Mokpo (₩5500, one hour). Buses Dongyul-ri, Hoecheon-myeon; adult/child also run from Gwangju (₩9800, 1½ hours, ₩6000/4000; h6am-8pm, last entry 7pm) Don’t hourly). Then take a local bus for Maryang and just settle for drinking tea – bathe in it at get off at the museum (₩1800, 25 minutes, this local spa that includes a green-tea bath every 40 minutes). among its many tubs. 88 Getting There & Around Haenam 해남 Buses (₩6300, 50 minutes, every 30 minutes) % 061 and trains (₩3800, one hour, six daily) travel from Suncheon to Boseong; from Boseong, Just southeast of the small, regional hub buses continue to Gangjin (₩4500, 45 minutes). of Haenam (http://eng.haenam.go.kr) is One mugunghwa train at 6.31pm goes from Duryunsan Provincial Park, where a clus- Boseong to Gwangju (₩5200, two hours). ter of climbable peaks cradle the temple, D­ aeheung-sa. Buses run from Boseong bus terminal to Yulpo Haesu Nokchatang (₩1200, 30 minutes, once 1 Sights & Activities or twice an hour), stopping at Boseong train station and Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation (15 Duryunsan Provincial Park PARK minutes). (두륜산도립공원; %061 530 5543; 400 Daehe- ungsa-gil; adult/child/youth ₩3000/1000/1500) Gangjin 강진 Picturesque views of Korea’s southern coastline reward hikers who scale the rocky % 061 path up to the peak, Duryun-bong (630m). One of the most important ceramic centres The hike, which begins just behind the in Korea, Gangjin has been associated with celadon (glazed green ceramic) for over temple museum at Daeheung-sa, takes 1½ hours. It’s a hard scramble near the top; it’s 1000 years. Gangjin is specifically known for an easier descent if you follow the stairs etched celadon, in which shallow patterns are cut out of the piece while it’s still wet down and pick up the trail at the junction Jinburam. and filled in with special glazes through an There’s also a cable car (%061 534 inlay process. 8992; 88-54 Daeheungsa-gil; adult/child return 1 Sights ₩9000/6000; h8am-5pm Dec-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Nov) that heads up to a different peak, Gangjin Celadon Museum MUSEUM G­ ogye-bong (638m), but does not operate (강진청자박물관; %061 430 3718; 33 on windy days. Cheongjachon-gil, Daegu-myeon; adult/child/ youth ₩2000/1000/1500; h9am-6pm) The exquisite 800-year-old examples of Daeheung-sa TEMPLE Goryeo-dynasty celadon on display here (대흥사; %061 535 5775; www.daeheungsa. co.kr; 400 Daeheungsa-gil; hsunrise-sunset) This

­major Zen temple is thought to date back 223J eo ll a n a m - d o SWlaenedpoi ng & Eat i ng a millenia, but it remained relatively un- Come here to feast on tongdak (통닭), known until it became associated with Seo- chicken served in two courses. First comes san, a warrior monk who led a group against a tabletop stir-fry of chicken marinated in Japanese invaders between 1592 and 1598. a tangy, spicy sauce, followed by the rest of The backdrop of mountains against the tem- the bird and mung-bean rice porridge. The ple is said to be a silhouette of Buddha lying whole thing, which costs ₩50,000, is meant down on his back. Trails behind the temple to serve four. The restaurant is in a brick lead to some mountain hermitages, such as building with a red sign. Bukmireuk-am, with its Silla-era (850–932) Buddhist stone carvings. It’s halfway between Haenam bus termi- nal and Daeheung-sa, along the bus route; The temple is inside Duryunsan Pro- get off at the Dolgogae bus stop. vincial Park, a 30-minute walk from the bus stop. Templestays are available (from 88 Getting There & Around ₩40,000). Access to Duryunsan Provincial Park is by bus 4 Sleeping & Eating (₩1200, 15 minutes, every 40 minutes) from Haenam bus terminal. Haenam Youth Hostel HOSTEL ₩ 완도 (해나유스호스텔; %061 533 0170; 88-88 Dae- Wando heungsa-gil; dm/r ₩10,000/30,000; pnai) A three-minute walk beyond the cable car % 061 / POP 53,000 inside Duryunsan Provincial Park is this Most travellers view Wando (http://eng. wando.go.kr), an island connected to the excellent budget option, with clean modern mainland by a bridge, as a transit point for rooms. Dorms have bunk beds while private rooms have yo (padded quilt mattresses on ferries to Jeju-do. However, it’s also home to a fantastic beach and ever-changing views of the floor); all rooms have bathrooms. scattered offshore islands. oYuseongwan HANOK GUESTHOUSE ₩₩ 1 Sights (유선관; %061 534 2959; 376 Daeheungsa-gil; d ₩50,000; pn) This idyllic traditional Myeongsasim-ni BEACH inn, built around a courtyard, is inside (명사십리; %061 550 6929) The southern coast’s best beach is a nearly 4km stretch D­uryun-san Provincial Park, about two- of golden sand backed by a boardwalk and thirds of the way between the car park and Daeheung-sa. Rooms are small but cosy, dec- pine trees. There’s a popular campground (20 June to 31 August; ₩10,000 per night) orated with ink-brush paintings; note that here, with raised platforms for tents and bathrooms are shared – and in a separate building. Don’t miss the traditional break- plenty of showers. Myeongsasim-ni is on the smaller, neighbouring island of Shinjido; fast (₩8000), brought to your room on a buses (₩1900, 25 minutes, hourly) run here low table. Next door is a rest stop with floor seat- from the Wando bus terminal. ing above the gurgling stream – it’s a perfect Gugyedeung PARK place to stop for an ice cream or makgeolli. (구계등; % 061 554 1769; 131 Jeongdo-ri; h 9am-5pm) On Wando’s south coast is a oWonjo Jangsu Tongdak KOREAN ₩₩ tiny park that offers views of distant cliffs (원조장수통닭; %061 536 4410; 295 Gosan-ro; meal for four ₩50,000 h11am-9pm) Hungry? and offshore islands, a pebbly beach and BUS DEPARTURES FROM HAENAM DESTINATION PRICE (₩) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY Busan 25,700 6 7 daily Gwangju 11,100 1¾ every 30min Jindo 5900 1 hourly Mokpo 6300 1 hourly Seoul 34,400 5 6 daily Wando 5400 1 hourly

224 Wando e# 0 500 m Western-style and ondol, and harbour views. 0 0.25 miles Pricier rooms have PCs. DSinjido (3km); 66Je›#onsama#úÿ#Gÿ#DraunbdaiMotel Myeongsasim-ni (8km) 5 Eating & Drinking Motel SOUTH SEA Bus (East China Sea) Wando is Korea’s largest producer of jeon- Terminal bok (전복; abalone), and you’ll see tanks of them in most restaurants lining the J eo ll a n a m - d o SWlaenedpoi ng Judo Wando h­ arbour. f#Ferry Terminal Market Jeonsama KOREAN ₩₩₩ (전사마; %061 555 0838; 1273-13 Gunnae-ri; 666Kim'sCafe#ü ò# # dishes ₩9,000-50,000; h10am-9pm) This pop- ular restaurant serves abalone a bunch of Wando Tower different ways, but try what we dub a Ko- 6rean version of surf-and-turf: wanggalbi jeonbokjjim (왕갈비전복찜; ₩50,000 for two people) – braised abalone and grilled spare ribs. Yum. a 1km nature trail that runs through a Kim’s Cafe CAFE thin slither of coastal woodland. Swim- ming is dangerous. The Seobu (western (40 Cheonghaejinnam-ro; coffee ₩3000-5000; side) bus (₩1200, 10 minutes, hourly) h8.30am-10pm; W) This cute-as-pie white runs from Wando bus terminal. Get off at cottage looks totally out of place on a street Sajeong and walk 600m down to the park filled with grey, weathered shops. There are entrance. fresh juices, cakes and muffins on the menu along with the usual coffees and teas. 4 Sleeping 88 Getting There & Away Motels are clustered along the harbour, in between the bus terminal and the ferry BOAT t­ erminal. Ferries depart from Wando Ferry Terminal (% 061 554 8000) for Jeju-do at 9.30am and Grand Motel MOTEL ₩₩ 4pm on weekdays and at 9am, 3am and 4pm (그랜드 모텔; %061 535 0100; www.wandog- on weekends. The last ferry of the day takes rand.co.kr; 41 Gaepo-ro 56beon-gil; r ₩40,000- three hours and costs ₩26,700; the others 50,000; paiW) This is a comfortable, take 1½ hours and cost ₩37,000. Other fer- clean place with large rooms overlooking ries run to a dozen nearby islands including Cheongsando. the harbour, fast PCs and free use of the in- 88 Getting Around house sauna. From Wando bus terminal, one local bus heads Dubai Motel MOTEL ₩₩ west (서부; seobu) while another heads east (두바이 모텔; %061 553 0688; 37 Haebyeo- (동부; dongbu). Both go to the bridge to the ngongwon-ro; r ₩40,000-50,000; paiW) mainland before heading back to Wando. The There’s no desert in sight but this green ferry terminal is a 25-minute walk from the bus water­front hotel has smart rooms, both terminal or a short taxi ride. BUS DEPARTURES FROM WANDO DESTINATION PRICE (₩) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY Busan 31,900 6 5 daily Gwangju 16,500 2¾ hourly Haenam 5400 1 8 daily Mokpo 11,800 2 3 daily Seoul 37,200 6 4 daily Suncheon 17,100 3¼ hours 5 daily Yeongam 9800 1½ hourly

225 Mokpo 목포 early 20th century, telling its story almost entirely through photographs, which also % 061 / POP 250,000 document Mokpo’s rapid growth over the last century. The sprawling port city of Mokpo, set on a small peninsula jutting out into the West Sea, is the end of the line for trains and ex- Gatbawi Culture District NEIGHBOURHOOD pressway traffic, and a starting point for sea (갓바위공원; g15) This area, 4km east of voyages to Jeju-do and the western islands downtown, has a swathe of museums, the J eo ll a n a m - d o MS iogkhptos of Dadohae Haesang National Park. Korea’s best of which is the National Maritime Mu- National Maritime Museum is appropriately seum. Just past the museums is the riverside located here, and the craggy peaks of Yudal- Gatbawi Rocks, which have been heavily san Park rear up in the city centre, offering eroded into shapes that are supposed to look splendid sea, city and sunset views. like two monks wearing reed hats. A pier ex- Mokpo is the hometown of late South tends into the river so you can get a good Korean president and Nobel Peace Prize look at this city icon. Catch the bus (₩1200, recipient Kim Dae-jung. It’s also the base 20 minutes, every 30 minutes) from outside of the Formula 1 race, held at a racetrack the train station (across the street). A taxi 15km south of town – one of the many re- costs ₩5000 from the train station. cent development projects awarded to long-­ neglected Jeollanam-do. ¨¨National Maritime Museum (국립해양유물전시관; %061 270 2000; 136 1 Sights Namnong-ro; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; c; g15) F This is the only museum in Korea dedicated Mokpo is a classic tale of two cities: the old to the country’s maritime history. The high- city, crowded between the train station, crag- lights are two shipwrecks, one dating from gy Yudalsan Park and the ferry terminals the 11th century and the other from the early is a salty, port town with fish markets and 14th century. Thousands of priceless items narrow streets. To the east is the newer Ha- of Korean and Chinese celadon, coins and dang, with fashionable cafes, a big modern other trade items were salvaged from them. shopping centre and a popular waterfront Fascinating film footage shows the treasures promenade, Peace Park. In between, is the being salvaged, and part of the actual boats Gatbawi Culture District, full of museums. has been preserved. It has English signage. Yudalsan Park PARK ¨¨Namnong Memorial Hall (남농기념관; 119 Namnong-ro; adult/child (유달산; 180 Yudal-ro) Right on the coast, this ₩1000/500; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; g15) This hall park is filled with rocky cliffs and pavilions, contains paintings by five generations of the with views across the island-scattered sea. Huh family, including work by Huh Gun, a Follow the main path for about 45 minutes master of Namjonghwa, a Korean art style as- to the peak Ildeung-bawi (일등바위; 228). sociated with the Southern School of China. To head down to Yudal Beach, double back to Soyojeong (소요정) pavilion for the path 4 Sleeping to Arirang Gogae (아리랑고개), then follow the sign to Nakjo-dae (낙조대) pavilion. There are countless love motels and yeog- From there it’s a 10-minute walk down the wan (small, family-run hotels) around the steps to the beach. bus terminal and between the train station The beach is just a tiny patch of sand, and ferry terminal. More modern hotels are rocks and seaweed, so the main attractions in Hadang. are the island views (partially spoiled by a Mokpo 1935 HANOK ₩ bridge) and a smattering of bars and restau- rants. Bus 1 and most of the other buses that (목포1935; %061 243 1935; http://cafe. daum.net/mokpo1935; 59 Yeongsan-ro; dm/d pass by can take you back to downtown. 25,000/100,000; naW) This beautifully re- Mokpo Modern History Museum MUSEUM stored, 100-year-old hanok is in the heart (목포근대역사관; %061 270 0878; 18 Beon- of the old downtown, a short walk from wha-ro; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) F This muse- the train station. There are dorm rooms in um is housed in the Mokpo branch of the one building and family rooms in another, Japanese Oriental Colonization Company, a around a courtyard; bathrooms are shared. building from the 1920s. It takes a hard look It’s tricky to find: look up for the sign that at the Japanese colonisation of Korea in the

226 e# 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles 66666Mokpo ABCD Hadang Bars (3km); Samil-ro D Motel Da Vinci (3.5km); 1 ›# (4km) RIldeung- Sumun-ro #ú5 1 66666bawi Haeyangd ae Pedestrian Zone 66666OrchidJ eo ll a n a m - d o SMloekeppoi ng Shopping Street of Light6 KBGlAoTb.#Mal #ì#ï£#9 Exhibition Hall # Precinct #ú æ# 3 kbong-gil Bank ñ# Train #ì Station N ojeo 2 YUDALSAN BeoYnehowan-rgosan-ro 2 PARK Yudulsan Park# Entrance 44Ù# h #æ 2 6464 6666Yudal ÿ# 4 a k-r o ò# Yeongsan-ro D Beach Beonhwa-ro #ú 7 Gatbawi Culture Sea 8 1 Wall #ü â# 666663 Yudal-ro District Museums (3km); 3 Gatbawi Rocks (3.5km); Manho-ro #– (22km) Haean-r Haean-ro Coastal f# Ferry Terminal o International f# 4 4 Ferry Terminal ABCD Mokpo says ‘Cafe & Bar, Guesthouse’ over the en- trance to an alleyway. æ Sights 1 Mokpo Modern History Museum.......... C3 Marina Bay Hotel HOTEL ₩₩ 2 Nakjo-dae................................................. A2 (마리나베이호텔; %061 247 9900; www.marina 3 Soyojeong ................................................ B2 bayhotel.co.kr; 1 Haean-ro 249beon-gil; d from ₩70,000; aW) Outside peak season, this ÿ Sleeping new hotel – along the waterfront and just a 4 F1 Motel.................................................... D2 few minutes’ walk from the ferry terminals – is an excellent deal. (Prices rise by 20% on ú Eating weekends and double during summer). 5 Dokcheon..................................................D1 Rooms are bright, airy and modern. 6 Namupo ................................................... D2 7 Yeongran Hoet-jip................................... D3 F1 Motel MOTEL ₩₩ (에프원호텔; %061 244 7744; 29 Sugang-ro û Drinking & Nightlife 12beon-gil; r ₩50,000-60,000; paiW) The 8 House Filled with Happiness ................. C3 best of the cluster of motels between the train station and the ferry terminal is this ï Information dark high-rise. Modern, clean rooms have 9 Tourist Information Centre ................... D2 sofas, heated toilet seats and ultrafast PCs. Note that wi-fi is weak in some rooms.

227 Motel Da Vinci LOVE MOTEL ₩₩ (모텔다빈치; %061 287 0456; 16 ­Beonyeong-ro; r ₩50,000-60,000; pai) This flashy mo- JEONGNAMJIN SATURDAY tel in Hadang has rooms that are head MARKET and shoulders above the local competition (and are thankfully less flashy inside). Twin Elsewhere traditional markets may be rooms, for example, come with two PCs and losing out to newer shopping centres, spa tubs. but the Jeongnamjin Saturday J eo ll a n a m - d o MEaotkipnog Market (정남진토요시장; Yeyang-ri, 5 Eating Jangheung-eup; h6am-6pm) in Jang- heung (장흥) is definitely a happening Mokpo is famous for its fresh seafood and place. In addition to the usual dried fish you’ll find many seafood restaurants in and hiking clothes, the market has live front of the ferry terminal along ­Haean-ro. music and food stalls – including some Smart new restaurants and chains are in run by members of the province’s ethnic Hadang, and there are often street ven- communities. Come around noon, when dors along the Peace Park waterfront. The things are at their liveliest, then pick up shopping precinct opposite the train sta- some mandu (dumplings) and join the tion has bakeries, cafes and pizza joints local families at the picnic tables. alongside Korean restaurants. Buses running every 30 to 60 min- oDokcheon KOREAN ₩₩ utes on the Suncheon to Mokpo route (독천식당; %061 242 6528; 3-1 Honam-ro stop at Jangheung, which is closest to 64beon-gil; dishes ₩11,000-19,000; h10am- Boseong (₩2600, 30 minutes) and 9.30pm) Mokpo is known for its octo- Gangjin (₩2000, 15 minutes). From pus, particularly for its nakji tangtangi Jangheung bus terminal it’s a 10-minute (chopped live octopus). This is the best walk to the market. Head right on the place in town to try it, and if you’re not main road, then over the bridge; the quite up for the challenge of eating it market will be on your right. still wriggling, the nakji bibimbap (octo- ssam dipped in a sweet and spicy sauce. pus, rice, egg and vegies with chilli sauce) Dishes are meant for sharing. There’s a and nakji yeonpotang (octopus soup) are blue sign out front. excellent, too. It’s an ordinary white-tiled building, with signs lit up at night. Seating 6 Drinking is on the floor. Mokpo’s entertainment and nightlife dis- Namupo KOREAN ₩₩ trict is in Hadang, behind the Peace Park (나무포; %061 243 8592; 19-1 Sumun-ro; dishes waterfront promenade. Here you’ll find an ₩8000-35,000; h9am-10pm) Not in a seafood ever-changing assortment of bars, cafes, mood? Try the galbi (갈비; beef ribs) grills discos and karaoke clubs. From April to No- at this local favourite located in the city cen- vember, there’s a dancing water fountain tre. There’s also a range of fan faves such show nightly (except Mondays) at 8.40pm in as bibimbap and naengmyeon (cold buck- front of Peace Park. wheat noodles). oHouse Filled with Happiness Elephant House INTERNATIONAL ₩₩ CAFE (%061 284 6242; 48 Wonhyeong-ro; meals (행복이가득한집; %061 247 5887; 48 Yudul- ro; drinks from ₩6600; h11am-10pm) Mokpo’s ₩18,000-22,000; h10am-midnight; v) This most attractive cafe, with dark polished Hadang joint is the place to go for your pas- ta fix. There are some clever fusion dishes wood, dim lights and a wrap-around veran- da, is inside a restored Japanese colonial on the menu such as ‘currybonara’ and spa- residence. Given the history, the name may ghetti with Mokpo’s local octopus. seem ironic, but there’s no denying that the building itself is beautiful, with a quiet calm. Yeongran Hoet-jip KOREAN ₩₩₩ (영란횟집; %061 243 7311; 47 Beonhwa-ro; dishes ₩45,000; h10am-10pm) Though Moe’s Bar & Grille BAR it may not look like much, this is one of (1102 Sang-dong; drinks from ₩5000; h9pm- 2am) You’ll find this scruffy expat hangout Mokpo’s finest hoe (raw fish) restaurants, on Rose St, a meandering pedestrian lane where you can sample the local mineo (민어; croaker). Eat it as is or wrapped in about 1km behind Peace Park. Don’t read

J eo ll a n a m - d o IAnrfoournmdatMiooknpo228 TRAIN too much into the name: it’s more of a beer KTX provides a fast service to Seoul’s Yongsan and darts sort of place than a restaurant. It’s station (₩52,800, 2½ hours, 16 daily), as well above 11am Cafe. as saemaeul (₩39,600, 4½ hours, two daily) and mugunghwa (₩26,600, six hours, six daily) 88 Information services. Trains to and from Seoul pass through Gwangju-Songjeong. There is one train daily to Tourist Information Centre (% 061 270 8599; Boseong (₩8700, 2½ hours) at 9.20am. h 9am-6pm) Little English spoken but there is a helpful English map. At the train station. 88 Getting Around 88 Getting There & Away It’s a 15-minute walk from the train station to the ferry terminals or to the entrance to Yudalsan AIR Park. Muan International Airport (% 1661 2626; http://muan.airport.co.kr; 970-260, Gong- Local bus 1 (₩1200, every 20 minutes) serves hang-ro, Mangun-myeon) is 25km north of the bus terminal, ferry terminals, train station the city and has flights to Jeju, Shanghai and and Yudal Beach. Bus 15 (₩1200, 20 minutes, Shenyang. There is no direct bus to the airport every 30 minutes) runs to the Gatbawi Park (a transfer is required at Muan). A taxi (around museums and Hadang from the bus and train ₩30,000) is the best option. stations. Taxis are cheap and plentiful. BOAT Around Mokpo Mokpo’s Coastal Ferry Terminal (연안여객선터 미널) handles boats to smaller islands west and East of Mokpo, the small city of Yeongnam southwest of Mokpo. Sightseeing trips (adult/ is the gateway to 42-sq-km Wolchulsan child ₩15,000/8000) depart from here and ­National Park cruise around the nearby islands. Wolchulsan National Park NATIONAL PARK (월출산국립공원; %061 473 5210; http:// The International Ferry Terminal (국제 여 english.knps.or.kr; adult/child/youth ₩2000/ 객선 터미널) has two sailings a day to Jeju-do. 500/1000; h5am-7pm Mar-Oct, 8am-6pm Nov- Slower car ferries leave at 9am and take 4½ Feb) Korea’s smallest national park has hours. Fares start at ₩30,000 and vary based on crags, spires and unusually shaped rocks class; fares for under 12s are half-price. The fast- around every corner, as well as an 8m Bud- er, pricier Pink Dolphin (₩49,650) leaves at 2pm, dha rock carving, steel stairways and a 52m taking three hours. Contrary to its name, there steel bridge spanning two ridges. The pop- are no international routes from this terminal. ular route is the 8km, six-hour hike from Dogap-sa in the west to Cheonhwang-sa BUS in the east (or vice versa) over the park’s Mokpo’s bus terminal is several kilometres from highest peak, Cheonhwang-bong (809m). the centre of town. Turn left outside the bus Tracks are well signposted, but steep and terminal, then left at the end of the road and strenuous in places due to the rocky ter- walk down to the main road where bus 1 (₩1200, rain. Bring lots of water. every 20 minutes) stops on the left. It runs to the train station, the ferry terminals and then on to Yudal Beach. BUS DEPARTURES FROM MOKPO DESTINATION PRICE (₩) DURATION FREQUENCY Busan 22,500 4½hr 9 daily Gwangju 5700 1¼hr every 20min Haenam 6300 1hr hourly Incheon Airport 39,100 4½hr 3 daily Jindo 6500 2hr every 30min Seoul 30,400 4½hr every 40min Wando 11,800 2hr 3 daily Yeongam 4400 30min every 20min Yeosu 13,000 3½hr hourly

229 JINDO MYSTERIOUS SEA ROAD J eo ll a n a m - d o DS iagdhothsa e H a e sang N at i onal Park Jindo (진도), Korea’s third-largest island, boasts some of the world’s largest tides. The island is famous for an unusual natural phenomenon: for a few days each year (usually in spring), the tide drops extremely low, exposing a 2.8km-long, 40m-wide causeway that connects Jindo to the tiny island of Modo-ri. The experience is known as the Ganjuyuk Gyedo (Mysterious Sea Road) and has long been celebrated among Koreans in legend. As one story goes, a family of tigers was causing so many problems on Jindo that all the islanders moved to nearby Modo, but somehow Grandma Ppong was left behind. She was broken-hearted and prayed to the Sea God to be reunited with her family. In answer to her fervent prayers, the Sea God parted the sea, enabling her to cross over to Modo and meet her family again. Sadly, she died of exhaustion shortly afterward. Statues, shrines and paintings of her can be seen throughout Jindo. With the spread of Christianity in Korea, the similarity to the Israelites’ crossing of the Red Sea has only brought more enthusiasts. Some 300,000 people make the crossing each year – in long rubber boots (available for rent, naturally). The Jindo Miracle Sea Road Festival (http://miracleseaeng.jindo.go.kr/index. html), which includes a torchlit procession, musical performances and a memorial cere- mony for Grandma Ppong, is held annually to coincide with the crossing. Jindo is best accessed from Gwangju (₩12,200, 2¾ hours, every 40 minutes) or Mokpo (₩6500, one hour, every 30 minutes). From Jindo bus terminal, catch a local bus bound for Hoedong (₩1300, one hour, hourly) to the festival site; a taxi should cost about ₩13,000 and take 30 minutes. If you’re not up for a huge hike, head to 1 Sights the more popular Cheonhwang-sa end and hike an hour up a rocky path to the suspen- Hongdo ISLAND sion bridge from where sprawling views of the surrounding country unfold. (홍도; Red Island) This is the most popular and beautiful of the islands west of Mok- From Yeongnam, buses run the 11km po. Some 6km long and 2.5km wide, it rises to Dogap-sa (₩1400, 20 minutes, 9.30am precipitously from the sea and is bounded and 4.30pm) in the west and the 4km to by sheer cliffs, bizarre rock formations and ­Cheonhwang-sa (₩1200, 10 minutes, 7.10am, wooded hillsides cut by ravines. The island 9am, 10.10am and 4.50pm). Consider taking is ringed by islets and sunsets can be spec- a taxi from Yeongam. tacular, but the only way you can see most of it is by boat, because with the exception Dadohae Haesang of the villages, Hongdo is a protected nature National Park reserve; entry is prohibited. 다도해해상국립공원 It is possible to climb the hill Gitdae-bong for views. There’s a small peb- Consisting of more than 1700 islands and bled beach on the south of the island. islets and divided into eight sections, Ferries to Hongdo arrive at a spanking Dadohae Haesang (Marine Archipelago) new ferry-terminal building in Ilgu village, National Park occupies much of the coast which is protected by a tiny cove. Boat and coastal waters of Jeollanam-do. Some tours (₩22,000, two hours, 7.30am and of the isles support small communities 12.30pm) around the island are the best with fishing and tourism income; others way to appreciate the island and its rocky are little more than tree-covered rocks. islets and arches, though the Korean com- mentary gets a little grating. Towards the Mokpo is the gateway to the western end of the tour, a small boat pulls up and sector, including Hongdo and Heuksando, fishermen slice up live fish into plates of the most visited and scenic of the islands. sashimi (₩35,000). In July and August the boats fill up, so Ilgu has several minbak and motels, all book ahead. charging about ₩50,000 per night. Try 1004 Hotel (1004호텔; %061 246 3758; r ₩50,000; a), with its sea-facing rooms and

230 J eo ll a n a m - d o GD ae tdtoihnageTHhaeersea&ngAwNaayt i onal Park HAMPYEONG SEAWATER land takes around nine hours. Fortunately, SAUNA local buses (₩1200, hourly) circle most of the island – a recommended trip is up the Too cold for a swim? Take a detour to Bonghwa-dae peak, on the north coast hill, the Hampyeong Seawater Sauna Sangnasan. (함평해수찜; 1007-1 Gungsan-ri, Son- bul-myeon; r ₩30,000; h8am-5pm), Cycling is also a fun way to get around; where saltwater is mixed with medic- look for shops offering mountain bikes inal herbs and heated with fire-baked for hire (₩20,000 per day) near the ferry stones. Private rooms are available for t­ erminal. parties of up to four. You’ll be given py- jamas to wear and towels to soak in the The largest village, Yeri, formerly a whal- water and wrap around your body (don’t ing centre, is where ferries dock and is home get in the water – it’s too hot). to several basic accommodation options of minbak and yeogwan. Seafood restau- Buses run roughly hourly from Mok- rants are plentiful but prices, ranging from po to Hampyeong (₩4100, one hour), ₩10,000 to ₩60,000, are higher than the from where a taxi to the sauna will cost mainland. around ₩10,000. Last entry is 3pm. 88 Getting There & Away balconies. Restaurants serve up seafood from ₩15,000 and a small supermarket be- The same ferries serve Heuksando, 90km west side 1004 Hotel serves the town. of Mokpo, and Hongdo, another 20km further away. Leaving from Mokpo’s Coastal Ferry Heuksando ISLAND Terminal, ferries run to Heuksando (adult/ child one way ₩34,300/17,150, two hours) and (흑산도) Heuksando, on the way to Hong- continue on to Hongdo (adult/child one way do, is the larger, more populated and more ₩42,000/21,000, 2½ hours). Ferries depart accessible of the two islands. Views from its Mokpo at 7.50am and 1pm. Return ferries depart peaks show why Dadohae Haesang means from Hongdo at 10.20am and 3.30pm, stopping ‘marine archipelago’. Fishing villages are at Heuksando (₩11,200, 30 minutes) along the linked by trails, but walking around the is- way. Note that you will be asked to show your pass- port when buying a ferry ticket (and likely again when you board).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Jeju-do %064 / POP 621,500 Includes  Why Go? Jeju-si.......................... 233 Jeju-do (제주도), Korea’s largest island, has long been the Seongsan-ri country’s favourite domestic holiday destination thanks to & Sinyang-ri ............... 244 its beautiful beaches, lush countryside and seaside hotels Seongeup designed for rest and relaxation. Folk Village ................. 247 Seogwipo ................... 249 There’s plenty on Jeju-do to appeal to those who prefer to Sagye-ri....................... 256 be active. Hike up South Korea’s highest mountain, Halla- Hallasan san, or climb the incredible tuff cone Seongsan Ilchul-bong, National Park.............. 257 rising straight from the sea, to watch the sun rise from Moseulpo ...................260 the ridge of a crater. For a less-demanding nature experi- ence, meander along one of the Jeju Olle Trails and explore Best Places to Eat t­angerine-trimmed country roads, jagged coasts and narrow lanes dotted with cottage-style homes made from black lava ¨¨Dasi Boesi (p244) rock. The ocean is never far away, so plunge into blue seas to ¨¨Saesom Galbi (p251) view coral as colourful as the sunsets and dig into ­Jeju-do’s ¨¨Yetnal Patjuk (p247) unique cuisine, including seafood caught by haeneyo ¨¨Haejin Seafood (female free divers). Restaurant (p238) ¨¨Chocolate Castle When to Go by the Sea (p250) Jeju-si Rainfall inches/mm Best Places to 16/400 Stay °C/°F Temp 40/104 ¨¨Hotel Little France (p251) ¨¨Seaes Hotel 30/86 12/300 & Resort (p256) 20/68 ¨¨Ssari’s Flower Hill (p244) ¨¨Baume Couture 10/50 8/200 Boutique Hotel (p238) ¨¨Hotel W (p238) 0/32 4/100 -10/14 -20/-4 JF MAM J J A S OND 0 Feb/Mar Hike Apr Join the Oct Enjoy good up to Hallasan’s cherry-blossom weather and snow-covered festivities across splendid autumn peak. the island. foliage along n­ ature trails such as Saryeoni Park.

J e j u - d o GH ei gthtli ni gghAtrso u n d232 economic development. The World Conser- vation Congress was held here in September History 2012 and ambitious carbon-free electric- ity generation ventures are being tested. According to legend, Jeju-do was founded ­Jeju-do has come under fire from conserva- by three brothers who came out of holes in tionists and other protesters for the Korean the ground and established the Tamna king- naval base under construction at Gangjeong dom. Early in the 12th century the Goryeo on the island’s south coast. dynasty took over, but in 1273 Mongol in- vaders conquered the island, contributing Since 2008 the Korean government has a tradition of horsemanship, a special horse waived visa requirements for Chinese tour- (jorangmal) and quirks in the local dialect. ists coming to Jeju-do. In that year the During the Joseon period, Jeju-do was used i­sland had about 400,000 visitors. In 2015 as a place of political and religious exile. that number was expected to surpass five million. Coupled with a recent residency The Japanese colonial period of the early ­visa-investment program, some complain 20th century can be traced through aban- that financial pressures and high land costs doned military bases and fortifications on are forever changing the once-sleepy nature the island. From 1947 to 1954, as many as of this resort island. 30,000 locals were massacred by right-wing government forces in events collectively la- 88 Getting Around belled the ‘April 3 Incident’. CAR Recent decades have seen Jeju-do’s econo- Driving on Jeju-do is quite unlike the Mad Max my shift from mainly agriculture to tourism. frenzy evident in some mainland cities. Traffic In 2006 the island was made into a special autonomous province, giving it a level of self-government that is encouraging further –# f# \\# Chocheon Seongsan #6 Udo Shin #\\ ^# Jeju-Si Manjang-gul #3 Ilchul-bong /·1132 Jeju ·/1136 Jeju Olle ##\\2 #4 Aewol #\\ Mysterious Rd /·97 /·1112 Trail 66·/1132 #\\ Sinyang-ri 44Biyangdo #\\ Hallim ·/ Sangumburi 1131 #æ#R1 Hallasan ·/ /·1135 \\# Samdal-ri ·/ ·/115 1139 1118 ·/#\\ Gosan /·1115 66#] 1120 /·1132 ·/1136 #\\ Namwon Moseulpo\\# #7 Jungmun Seogwipo JEJU STRAIT Jigwido ·/ ##\\ 1132 ]#5 Wolpyeong Sagye-ri Gapado e#0 10 km Marado 0 5 miles Jeju-do Highlights 1 Hiking the trails of the world’s largest lava-tube Lee Jung-Seop Art Gallery Hallasan (p257), Korea’s cave system. & Park (p249). highest mountain. 4 Admiring the sunrise 6 Uncovering delights on 2 Exploring the Jeju from Seongsan Ilchul-bong Udo (p250), a tiny island off Olle (p259), a magnificent (p245) volcanic tuff cone. Jeju-do’s east coast. network of walking trails. 5 Grabbing a bite and 7 Finding Buddha in a cave 3 Going underground at strolling Seogwopo’s in Sanbanggul-sa (p257) at Manjang-gul (p242), part of youthful art district around Sagye-ri.

233 flows smoothly and the most common hazards DOLHARUBANG J e j u - d o JSEei gjJhUu -tsSsiI & A c t i v i t i es are speed bumps and lost drivers making U-turns. Road signs are in English, most rental An ever-present symbol of Jeju-do cars come with an English-language GPS is the volcanic stone statues known system and the hire cost is reasonable (around as dolharubang (grandfather rock). ₩60,000 a day for a compact car, including The original dolharubang were carved insurance). You must be at least 21 years of age around 1750 and placed outside the and have a current international driving permit. island’s fortresses – 47 of these dolhar- BICYCLE ubang still exist. It’s possible to pedal or scoot your way around the island (250km) in three to five days. The It’s generally believed the statues designated cycleway is relatively flat, with were set to ward off evil, but they may much of it parallel to the beautiful coast. Pack have also been fertility symbols. These rain gear. Bicycles (₩10,000 a day) and scoot- phallic oddities are nearly life-sized ers (₩15,000 to ₩25,000 a day) can be hired with a helmet-style hat, bulging eyes, in Jeju-si and Seogwipo. a squashed nose and hands on the BUS stomach. Taking home your own dol- Services radiate from Jeju-si and Seogwipo and harubang is easy as they’re sold in all cover most of the island, running around the shapes and sizes as souvenirs. coast and across the centre roughly every 20 minutes. Pick up an English intercity bus map runs this pleasant promenade. At the east- and timetable from the airport tourist office. ern end, walk along the mosaic-decorated sea wall. There’s also a small amusement TAXI park and an outdoor band shell that hosts Charge is ₩2800 for the first 2km; a 15km summer music and dance performances. journey costs about ₩10,000. You can hire a taxi for around ₩150,000 a day. Yongduam Rock VIEWPOINT (용두암) ‘Dragon Head Rock’ (so called be- cause the volcanic rocks are supposed to JEJU-SI resemble a dragon) attracts coachloads of tourists. Besides rock watching, plane spot- POP 435,000 ting is a popular activity – aeroplanes fly just a few hundred metres overhead on their fi- Chances are that you’ll end up spending nal approach to the island. a day or two in the island’s capital, Jeju-si (제주시), as this is the main entry point to Arario Museum MUSEUM Jeju-do, either by air or sea. The city centre, 4km east of Jeju International Airport, has (아라리오뮤지엄; %064 720 8201; www.arario a few historic structures, plenty of shopping museum.org; adult ₩6000-12,000, depending and lively bars opposite the old City Hall – on gallery; h10am-7pm) One of the island’s all fine, but nothing extraordinary. most ­interesting art projects, Arario has ­Tapdong-ro has an incredible number of sea- four galleries in renovated buildings in and food and pork restaurants. The coastal road around the Tapdong area hosting perma- starting at Yongduam Rock has nice seaside nent and temporary exhibitions by Korean views and a panoply of restaurants, cafes, and international artists. The intriguing bars and pensions. design of these galleries continues and expands a Jeju tradition of thoughtful and In the suburb of Shin Jeju, you’ll find more artful use of space. accommodation, restaurants and bars. The Entry fee into the Tapdong Cinema most interesting sights, such as Jeju Stone ­gallery (₩12,000) also gets you into the Park and Jeju Loveland, are out of town, but next-door Tapdong Bike Shop gallery. Two easily accessed either by bus or taxi. galleries housed in old motels – Arario ­Museum Dongmun Motel I (동문모텔 I; 1 Sights & Activities 1 City Centre %064-720 8202; adult/youth ₩10,000/6000) and Dongmun Motel II (동문모텔 II; %064 720 8203) – are a 20-minute walk from Tap- Tapdong Promenade dong, near Sanji-ro. & Waterbreak WATERFRONT (제주시내) Jeju-si itself doesn’t have a beach, but along the Tapdong seafront

234 Folklore & Natural trails (between 560m and 970m in length) snake past outdoor exhibits, ranging from History Museum MUSEUM replicas of the original 47 dolharubang (grandfather rocks) to an enchanting forest (민속자연사박물관; %064 710 7708; http:// with hundreds of dongjasok (pairs of stone museum.jeju.go.kr/en; adult/youth ₩1100/500; tomb guardians). It’s a stop on the Jeju City h8.30am-6pm) Wide-ranging eco-museum Tour Bus (p241) route. with exhibits on Jeju-do’s varied geological features, including volcanic bombs, lava tubes and trace fossils. Other highlights are excellent wildlife films, the bizarre oar fish Jeju Museum of Art GALLERY and panoramas of the island’s six ecological (제주도립미술관; %064 710 4300; http://jmoa. jeju.go.kr; adult/child/youth ₩1000/300/500; zones. h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) View interesting perma- J e j u - d o SJ EeljJeuUep- sSi Iing Global Sea Water Sauna SPA nent and temporary exhibits of contempo- (탑동해수사우나; %064 758 4800; http:// rary visual art at this excellent gallery next jejuzzim.com; bathhouse/jjimjil-bang & overnight sleeping ₩6000/8000; h24hr) Clean up and to Jeju Loveland. The beautifully designed building appears to float on a pool of water. wind down at this public bath and jjim- It’s on the Jeju Golden Bus City Tour (p241) jil-bang (upmarket sauna) in Tapdong. It’s route. a 24-hour facility, which also makes it the cheapest sleeping option in Jeju-si. Saryeoni Forest FOREST (사려니숲길; %064 900 8800; http://jeju­ forest.kfri.go.kr) F On the eastern border 1 Outside Jeju-si of Halla­san National Park, this is a popular Jeju Stone Park PARK weekend walking destination with 15km of forest paths shaded by maples, oaks and (제주돌문화공원; %064 710 7731; http:// cedars, with the occasional roaming deer. jejustonepark.com/eng; adult/youth ₩5000/3500; h9am-6pm, closed 1st Mon of month) Creating Plan on four hours to walk the entire path a park dedicated to rocks on a rock-littered between the two roadside entrances. The island might sound a snooze, but you’ll Jeju City Tour Bus (p241) stops at the two quickly reassess that opinion after touring entrances on Rtes 1112 and 1118. this beguiling sculpture park. Three walking Iho Tewoo Beach BEACH (이호테우해변; g702 to Hyeon-sa Village) The nearest beach to Jeju-si is blessed with an unusual mixture of yellow and grey sand, PLANNING FOR JEJU-DO which means you can build two-tone sand- castles. There’s shallow water that makes for July and August are peak season; hotels safe swimming. and car hire get booked up and rates are Buses from Jeju-si (₩1300, 15 minutes, higher. Visit from September (excluding every 20 minutes) run from the intercity bus the Lunar New Year holiday period) and terminal to Heon-sa Village. you’ll avoid the crowds and pay less. The weather is still good and you’ll have the 4 Sleeping beaches mostly to yourself. There’s a mix of high-end hotels and budget If time is short, make Seogwipo, the accommodation near the seafront in Tap- island’s second-largest city on the south dong, which is a ₩4000 taxi ride from the coast, your base. From here you can airport. Business and luxury hotels can be visit Hallasan National Park to the north, found in Shin Jeju, which is closer to the Seongsan Ilchul-bong to the east and airport. Sanbanggul-sa and the Yongmeori coast to the west. Jeju-si, the island’s capital HK Jeju HOSTEL ₩ to the north, is closer to the airport but (%064 727 0027; www.hkjeju.com; Tapdong; is not as scenic. dm/s/tw ₩15,000/39,000/55,000; aiW) The friendly staff speak English at this ap- With a week or more it’s possible to pealing backpackers joint that occupies an take in all of Jeju-do’s top sights, as well old-f­ashioned hotel. A bit of colourful paint as visit one of the smaller islands, such brightens things up and there’s a big kitchen as Udo, or lounge on a deserted beach. and laundry. Get off the beaten track by staying at a small village pension or guesthouse.

235 Jeju-si e#0 500 m A 0 0.25 miles JEJU 66 DSTRAIT BCD 6 Sea Wall 19 æ# ú# MFairskheStanji-ro 1 Tapdon17gú#-roú#18 Ø#9ÿ#â#1 ý#23 8 International f# #ï 25 3 Terminal (2km) 1 Ø# ú#16 ö# 7 ÿ# â# ï# 26 ú# 13 6666û#22 ò#12,# 27 15 CHISEONG-RO SHOPPING DISTRICT Covered Mall Gwandeok-ro â# 2 Dongmun-ro J e j u - d o JSEeljJeUuep- sSi Iing Han Strea nji StJun gan g-ro Jungang-ro Seosa-ro D 66662 m Seomun-ro 2 Namseong-ro ng-no Samseo #– (2.5km) â#5 Sa Sinsan 3 66666663 AromaNight(500m); Park Shin Jeju (500km); 24 ï# Baume Couture Jeonnong-ro r eam Boutique Hotel (1km); Jeju Welcome Center (1km) D 10 Seosa-ro 6666Donggwang-ro 4 # Seogwang-ro 11 ÿ# æ# 4 4 ›# 28 666A B C D 20 #û û# 21 ,# 29 ú# 14 Jeju-si 6617 E-Mart Food Court .................................. B1 æ Sights 18 Factory Bakery ........................................ B1 1 Arario Museum ........................................C1 19 Haejin Seafood Restaurant.................... C1 2 Arario Museum Dongmun Motel I ........ C2 û Drinking & Nightlife 3 Arario Museum Dongmun Motel II ........C1 20 Craft Han's ...............................................C4 4 City Hall.................................................... D4 21 Factory......................................................D4 5 Folklore & Natural History Museum..... D3 22 Nilmori Dong Dong.................................. A1 6 Tapdong Promenade & Waterbreak.....B1 7 Yongduam Rock....................................... A1 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours ý Entertainment 8 Amusement Park.....................................C1 23 Band Shell ................................................ C1 9 Global Sea Water Sauna .........................B1 10 Jeju City Tour Bus................................... A4 ï Information 24 Korean Air.................................................C3 ÿ Sleeping 25 Tourist Information Centre 11 Backpackers in Jeju................................ C4 Tapdong................................................. C1 12 HK Jeju ......................................................C1 26 Tourist Information Centre 13 Hotel W......................................................C1 Yongduam ............................................. A1 ú Eating ï Transport 14 Bagdad Cafe............................................ C4 27 I Love Bike ................................................ C1 15 Dombaedon..............................................C1 28 Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal....................A4 16 D-Stone Pub ............................................. A1 29 Mr. Lee's Bike Shop ................................B4

236 SJ SONG / 500PX © TOPIC PHOTO AGENCY / CORBIS © 1. Ulleungdo (p172) All that remains of an extinct volcano, this island has some of the best scenery in Korea 2. Heyri (p98) This charming village near the publishing centre of Paju Book City is devoted to books 3. Seoraksan National Park (p129) Designed as a Biosphere Protection site, this stunning park has forests, temples and wildlife 4. Hahoe Folk Village (p179) Centuries-old Joseon-era homes have been preserved in this beautiful region DEA / M. BORCHI / GETTY IMAGES ©

237 OASISFRAME / GETTY IMAGES ©

238 J e j u - d o JEEeajJtuUi n- sSgIi JEJU’S SEX MUSEUMS Although attitudes are changing, Koreans tend to be conservative in public about sex. Pornography, for example, is illegal. So how come Jeju-do has three graphic sex mu­ seums? Chatting to locals, a couple of answers come up. The island gives tax breaks to anyone who runs a museum (which explains why Jeju-do has so many ‘museums’) and many honeymooning and vacationing visitors are already in the mood for frisky fun – these museums provide inspiration and education. Jeju Loveland (제주러브랜드; %064 712 6988; www.jejuloveland.com; admission ₩9000; h9am-11pm) This erotic theme park created by art students and graduates of Seoul’s Hongik University features hundreds of sexy and frequently comic sculptures, soft-core art galleries and adult-toy stores. The park is a short drive from Jeju-si on Rte 1139; it’s also a stop on the Jeju Golden Bus City Tour (p241). Museum of Sex & Health (건강과 성 박물관; %064 792 5700; www.sexmuseum.or.kr; 1736 Gamsan-ri, Andeok-myeon; admission ₩12,000; h10am-8pm; g702) In Gamsan-ri in southern Jeju-do, this huge complex has extensive sections devoted to sex education and sex culture from around the world. Laudable for its inclusivity, covering usually taboo subjects in Korea such as homosexuality, it also has some very imaginative i­nstallations. Buses running on Rte 1132 between Seogwipo (₩3300, one hour, every 20 minutes) and Hwasun-ri stop near the museum in Andeok-myeon. World Eros Museum (제주 세계성문화박물관; %064 739 0059; admission ₩7000; h9am-7pm, last entry 6pm) The smallest of Jeju-do’s sex-themed museums and perhaps the most artful. There’s a collection of world erotic art, though the lack of English signage makes it a bit inaccessible. The adult-only museum is on the 2nd floor of Seogwipo’s World Cup Stadium (p250). In Seogwipo, frequent local buses run from Jungang Rotary to the World Cup Stadium (₩1200). Backpackers in Jeju HOSTEL ₩ stylish place to sleep. Up at the rooftop pool (제주여행자숙소; %064 773 2077; http:// (open July and August), there are great views cafe.naver.com/chejukorea; dm ₩25,000, r from of Halla-san, weather permitting. Look for ₩44,000; aiW) Handy if you want to be the cool building near the intersection of in the City Hall party district. This quirky, Singwang-ro and Yeonbuk-ro. foreigner-friendly place has a large area map on a blackboard, an extensive LP vinyl col- 5 Eating lection in the basement cafe-bar and ­iPads instead of TVs in the private rooms. It’s Factory Bakery BAKERY ₩ (%064 720 8223; Tapdong; items from ₩3000; down a lane next to Baskin Robbins. h8am-8pm) The air inside this open-­kitchen oHotel W MOTEL ₩₩ bakery is filled with the aroma of freshly baked breads, cakes and sweets…and it’s (%064 757 0314; http://jejuw.co.kr; r ₩70,000; not the phoney smell found in some popular ai) The modern rooms are good value compared to the surrounding properties in brand-name bakeries. Decent sandwiches and coffee are also available. Tapdong. Every room has a computer – the one in 506 works well and has Chrome, a rarity in Korean motels. Off-season rates are E-Mart Food Court KOREAN ₩ (Tapdong; meals from ₩5000; h10am-11pm) This negotiable. Ask for a room facing away from 5th-floor food court has sea views and plen- the ocean – the amusement park across the street is noisy until 9.30pm. ty of cheap eats. The basement supermarket is ideal for self-catering. oBaume Couture oHaejin Seafood Restaurant SEAFOOD ₩₩ Boutique Hotel HOTEL ₩₩₩ (해진횟집; %064 757 4584; Raw Fish St; meals (%064 798 8000; www.baume.co.kr; 95, Sing- ₩10,000-60,000; h10.30am-midnight) Of the wang-ro, Shin Jeju; r from ₩210,000; aiWs) Oh many restaurants overlooking the harbour, so chic, this boutique hotel is Jeju-si’s most

239 Haejin is the largest and one of the most Craft Han’s BAR popular places to try Jeju-do’s seafood speci- (크래프트 한스; %064 721 3336; http://craft alities such as cuttlefish, eel, squid, octopus, hans.fordining.kr; h5pm-2am) Craft beer is on sea cucumber and abalone. The set meal tap along with a decent selection of imported (₩30,000) feeds two people. bottled brew at this cosy bar in the City Hall area. Side orders include cheesy deep-dish 3Bagdad Cafe INDIAN ₩₩ Chicago-style pizza plus salmon and chips. (%064 757 8182; 8 Seogwang-ro 32-gil; meals Look for the small building with a woody from ₩9000; hnoon-11pm; W) This top date exterior and dark-green trim. spot in the City Hall district has English-­ speaking staff and fine halal food. Standard Indian fare is here such as tandoori chick- Entertainment en and peanut butter masala, which tastes great with a large serving of garlic nan. Look Aroma Night DANCE J e j u - d o DJ EerjJi uUnk- sSiIing for the pink building two blocks west of J­ ungang-ro. (%064 746 7000; Singwang-ro, Shin Jeju; admis- sion ₩20,000, sets from ₩50,000; h8pm-3am) Partygoers looking for something different come here to dance into the early hours INTERNATIONAL ₩₩ amid exotic dancers, live music, DJs and a D-Stone Pub (meals from ₩8000; h5pm-2am) There’s an spectacular laser-light show. Dress casual eclectic range of dishes on the menu, from but smart and come with a group if you sushi to burgers, plus a decent selection want to experience Korea’s booking culture. of imported beers on tap. But really, you’ll In this, a male customer tips a waiter to come here to admire the stunning ocean bring a female to his table – a process of views while sitting on a patio near Yongdu- meeting new people in a culture that doesn’t am Rock. normally see strangers walking up to one another and introducing themselves. Dombaedon BARBECUE ₩₩₩ (돔베돈; % 064 753 0008; http://dombaedon Let’s Run Park HORSE RACING .co.kr; Tapdong; 180g serving ₩16,000; (렛츠런파크 제주; %064 741 9114; www.kra. h noon-midnight) One of the better options co.kr; admission ₩2000; h12.30-5pm Fri & Sat, on heukdwaeji geori, a street dedicat- schedule varies; g780, Jeju Horse Racing Park ed to barbecue restaurants serving the stop) Watch jorangmal, descendants of i­sland’s tastiest speciality, black pig. It’s horses brought to the island by invading the corner restaurant with floor-to-ceiling Mongols centuries ago, race around this windows. track, 15km southwest from Jeju-si. The facilities are first-class, and there is a sepa- 6 Drinking rate lounge for foreigners. Several cross-island buses from Jeju-si, in- The prime nightlife spots are around City cluding 780, stop here (₩1300, 20 minutes, Hall and Shin Jeju, around Singwang-no. every 20 minutes). A taxi from Jeju-si costs Factory BAR ₩18,000. (%010 9184 3431; 6, Gwangyang 13-gil; h7pm- 3am Tue-Sun) Named after Andy Warhol’s 88 Information studio, the Factory is a dark and moody bar that attracts artists, musicians and other Central Post Office (제주우체국; % 064 722 hipsters. It’s a favourite haunt for Jeju-si’s 0084; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) The post office on expat community. There’s occasional live Gwandeok-ro. music. Jeju Welcome Center (% 064 740 6000; www. ijto.or.kr; 23 Seondeok-ro, Yeon-dong, Shin Jeju; h 9am-6pm; W) Tourist information and Nilmori Dong Dong BAR internet access. KTO Tourist Information Jeju Office (% 064 (닐모리동동; %064 745 5008; www.nilmori. 742 0032; 1st fl, Jeju International Airport com; h11am-11pm; W) On the coastal road terminal; h 9am-8pm; W) Free internet and behind the airport is this eclectic cafe-bar- lots of maps. re­staurant that often stages craft exhibi- tions and other arty events. A ₩6000 taxi Tourist Information Centre Jeju Airport ride from Shin Jeju, it’s a worthwhile stop if (% 064 742 8866; h 6.30am-8pm) Helpful you’re looking for a place to eat, drink and staff; be sure to get a bus map and schedule. sample the local arts scene before or after strolling the oceanfront promenade.

J e j u - d o JGeejtut-isnig The r e & Away240 T’way Air (% 82 1688 8686; www.twayair.com) Tourist Information Centre Tapdong (% 064 Low-cost carrier. 728 3919; h 9am-6pm) This small office is near the band shell. BOAT Tourist Information Centre Yongduam Comfortable ferries sail between Jeju-si and (% 064 711 1022; h 9am-6pm) Near Yongduam three ports on the peninsula. Most ships have Rock. three classes: 3rd-class passengers sit on the floor in big rooms; 2nd class gets you a seat; 88 Getting There & Away 1st class gets you a private cabin with bed and bathroom. AIR Flights connect Jeju-si with several mainland cit- Ferries berth at either Jeju Ferry Terminal or ies, plus a handful of international destinations the International Ferry Pier, 2km further east. in China and Japan. From Gimpo in Seoul, flights City bus 90 (₩1200, every 20 minutes) runs to depart every 10 to 30 minutes, dawn to dusk. and from both ferry terminals, but a taxi is more Except for holidays and the summer season, it’s convenient. Contrary to the latter terminal’s rarely necessary to pre-book. Advance one-way name, there are no international routes. fares can start as low as ₩34,000 from Seoul and Busan. 88 Getting Around Air Busan (%1666 3060; www.flyairbusan. com) Regional air carrier based in Busan. TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Asiana (% 2 2669 8000; www.flyasiana.com) Jeju International Airport (제주국제공항; Korea’s second-largest carrier, after Korean Air. %1661 2626; http://www.airport.co.kr/ Eastar Jet (% 82 1544 0080; www.eastarjet. jejueng/index.do) is 1km from Shin Jeju and com) Based out of Gimpo International Airport 4km from central Jeju-si. in Seoul. Jeju Air (% 82 1599 1500; www.jejuair.net) The limousine airport bus 600 (every 20 Low-cost airline based in Jeju-si. minutes) drops off and picks up passengers at Korean Air (% 82 1558 2001; www.koreanair. major hotels and resorts all around the island, co.kr) Korea’s largest air carrier. including Jungmun Resort (₩4500, one hour), FERRIES FROM JEJU-SI DESTINATION SHIP TELEPHONE; PRICE DURATION FREQUENCY Busan Seokyung FROM (₩) 12hr Tue, Thu, Sat Paradise WEBSITE 51,500 Busan 12hr Tue, Thu, Sat Seokyung %051 469 5994; 47,000 Goheung Island http://skferry. 1hr 10min Sun-Fri (Nokdong) haewoon.co.kr 27,000 Mokpo, Chu- Namhae jado & Jindo Express %064 751 1901; Mokpo Carway 7 http://skferry. Wando Pink Dolphin haewoon.co.kr Wando Seastar %064 723 9700 Cruise Wando & Blue Narae %064 758 4234; 38,000 20min-3hr daily, closed Chujado http://seaferry.co.kr 30,000 4hr 30min 4th Wed Hanil Car 37,000 Ferry I %064 758 4234; Tue-Sun http://seaferry.co.kr 26,250 Hanil Car 2hr 4 daily, 2nd & Ferry 3 %064 751 5050; 26,250 4th Wed closed www.hanilexpress. co.kr 2hr 50min daily, 3rd Wed closed %064 751 5050; www.hanilexpress. 2-5hr daily co.kr %064 751 5050; www.hanilexpress. co.kr

241 JEJU CITY & AREA TOUR BUSES J e j u - d o GSE ali msenetpyeeirnnognJgejBue-adcoh Jeju Golden Bus City Tour (%064 742 8862; http://en.jejugoldenbus.com; adult/child ₩12,000/10,000; h8am-8.40pm) Explore Jeju-si on a golden bus. Jump on and off the bus all day at the city’s best sights, including Yongduam Rock (p233) and Loveland (p238). There’s a stop at the airport. Jeju City Tour Bus (%064 748 3211; http://english.jeju.go.kr; adult/child ₩5000/3000; h8 departures 8am-5pm) A day pass on the Jeju City Tour Bus is an economical way to explore 19 sights on a circuit in and around Jeju-si. Key stops include Saryeoni Forest (p234), Jeju Stone Park (p234) and Jeju April 3 Peace Park (p254). Buses start at the Jeju-si intercity bus terminal. Yeha Bus Tours (%064 713 5505; www.yehatour.com; adult/youth ₩79,000/69,000; h8.30am-5.30pm) You get bus travel, sight entrance fees, lunch and a guide to explain everything on this one-day excursion. The company operates three routes that run to some of the most popular destinations on the island: east ‒ includes Seongsan ­Ilchul-bong (p245) and Manjang-gul (p242); west ‒ includes Hallim Park (p262) and Sanbangsan trek; and south ‒ includes Eoseungsaengak Trail (p259) and Y­ akcheon temple (p255). Seogwipo (₩5000, 1½ hours) and the World Cup SK Hertz (% 064 751 8000; https://www. Stadium (₩5500, 1¾ hours). hertz.com) In the arrivals terminal beside other rental agencies. Bus 100 shuttles between the airport and the city’s bus terminal (₩1200, 10 minutes, every EASTERN JEJU-DO 20 minutes); bus 500 goes to Shin Jeju (₩1200, 15 minutes, every 20 minutes). Eastern Jeju-do includes the coastal area along Rte 1132 from Gimnyeong to Pyoseon, BICYCLE & SCOOTER some inland sites and the ferry to Udo. I Love Bike (아이러브바이크; % 064 723 7775; www.bikejeju.com/introduce/rentguide.php; Most of the coastal destinations can be Samdo2-dong 14-4 Beon-ji; bicycle per day accessed by bus 701 (₩1300 to ₩3300, every ₩7000-30,000; h7am-8pm) English speak- 20 m­ inutes from 5.40am to 9pm) as it shut- ing, with a large choice of bikes. Look for the tles between Jeju-si and Seogwipo. shop close to a post-office building near the intersection of Bukseong-ro and Gimnyeong Beach Gwandeong-ro 7-gil. 김녕해수욕장 Mr. Lee’s Bike Shop (% 064 758 6640; www. jejubike.co.kr; 163 Seosa-ro; 125cc scooter for The white sand of small Gimnyeong beach 24hr ₩40,000; h 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) Rec- (김녕해수욕장; g701, Gimnyeong beach stop) ommended for bikes, scooters and motorcycles contrasts with the black-lava rocks and wind with 125cc engines. turbines spinning round nearby. It’s popu- lar in summer with families wading in the You must be an experienced rider with an shallow waters. international driving licence to rent a scooter or motorcycle. Buses from Jeju-si (₩2300, 45 minutes, every 20 minutes) stop near the beach. BUS Streams of city and round-island buses origi- 4 Sleeping nate from the intercity bus terminal (% 064 753 1153) on Seogwang-ro; tourist information Emerald Pension Castle PENSION ₩₩ offices can provide a timetable. Fares start at (에메랄드펜션개슬; %064 782 1110; http:// ₩1200. emeraldcastle.co.kr; r from ₩50,000; g701, Gim- nyeong Beach stop) This modest pension close CAR to Gimnyeong beach is run by a friendly old Cars come with English-language navigation woman. Rooms on the 2nd floor have more systems. Avis (% 064 726 3322; www.avis.co.kr; h 8am- 10pm) In the arrivals terminal. scenic views.

242 B D C DD Chujado (40km); Busan Jeju-do Wando (85km); My s terious Rd (300km) A Mokpo (160km) 1 JEJU STRAIT SaBmeaycahng Hamdeok #ÿ Beach Jeju-do Ù# Ù# 8 56#ï #f Ferry Terminal \\#Chocheon Ù# Jeju\\# #ý Shin #^ Jeju-Si 53 J e j u - d o EMS aiagsnhtjteasrnng -Jgejuul - d o /·ÿ# 40 ï# 55 1118 ·/#â ÷# 13 10 ·/2 Jeju April 3 Gwakji Aewol 1132 Peace Park Beach#Ù #\\ 1 #â 97 33 41 #è Biyangdo #ÿ#\\ Hallim 666#ý 22 #æ 2 æ# 54 ÷# 23 #÷ /·1118 Geumneung & Ù# #ú Hallasan Hyeopjae 49 ·/31 6 Beaches æ# #è #è 7 ÷# National 1131 Park ·/1120 /·1136 /·1135 36 #è 32 R Halla-san /·3 11 /·1139 (1950m) 115 #â #è38 ·/1132 9 666/·ÿ# 25 #æ #æ 45 1115 30 #è Gosan 12 #â#ú 50 #â 19 #\\ /·1120 ·/44 1136 #ÿ #\\ 2#æ12æ##ü501#è39Ù#HBewaa1#âc8shunæ#29 #Y3 Jeongbang Ù##]#Ø37#ÿ47#æ14#æ28\\#Wolpy2æ#e7ong Pokpo Jungmun 666RSongaksan Jungmun Beach #æ]# Y# 4 Moseulpo #\\ #è 24 Hamo Beach #Ù 34 Jigwido Gapado 5 æ# Marado 17 ABCD Manjang-gul outstanding feature. The immense black 만장굴 t­unnel with swirling walls looks like the lair of a giant serpent and it’s hard to imagine the 1 Sights geological forces that created it aeons ago, moulding rock as if it were Play-Doh. Manjang-gul CAVE Take a jacket, as the cave ceiling drips (만장굴; %064 710 7905; http://jejuwnh.jeju.go.kr; and the temperature inside is a chilly 10°C. adult/youth ₩2000/₩1600; h9am-5pm; g701, The lighting is dim so a torch (flashlight) is Manjang-gul stop) Manjang-gul is the main ac- a good idea. The ticket office is about 2.5km cess point to the world’s longest system of from the Manjang-gul bus stop on Rte 1132; lava-tube caves. In total the caves are 7.4km a transfer to local bus 990 (₩1000, every 45 long, with heights between 2m and 23m. In minutes to two hours) is possible, but arriv- this section you can walk around 1km un- al times are inconvenient. A taxi from Gim- derground to a 7m-high lava pillar, the cave’s nyeong costs ₩7000.

243 e# 0 10 km 0 5 miles Woljeong Beach E F 월정해수욕장 Woljeong Beach BEACH 1 (월정리 해변; g701, Woljeong-ri stop) This hideaway beach is fast becoming a hotspot 42 #ÿÙ#4 4ÿ#3 #ü52#ÙBWeoalcjehong for young couples looking for good times Ù# Sehwa near the ocean. Year-round, it’s a fun place to Sehwa-BreiÙ#\\#ac4#úh8#â5#ÿ4#Ù6 BHeaadcoh stroll the beach and spend time in the funky 16 #æ beachside cafes and restaurants. Commercial development, so far, has been small scale. Hado-ri\\# Udo 26 From Jeju-si (₩2300, 55 minutes, every /·1136 #õ 20 minutes) buses run on Rte 1132; the J e j u - d o EWS aloseletjpeeironnnggJ&eBjDeura-idcnohk i ng /·1112 ·/1132 Seongsan-ri beach is 500m from the bus stop. #f #\\ 2 35 #è 4 Sleeping & Drinking Siheung \\# 4 4Goseong-ri #\\ Seongsan Ferry Terminal R Sinyang-ri \\# 44#æ Gaga Pension PENSION Sinyang #ÙIlScehounl-gbsoanng Beach (가가펜션; %064 782 5009; r ₩60,000, higher weekends & summer; paW; g701, Woljeong-ri (182m) 15 #â \\# Samdal-ri stop) Just steps from Woljeong beach, this decent property has clean rooms with kitch- 3 ens and balconies. Ù# Pyoseon Woljeong-ri Lowa CAFE Beach (월정리 LOWA; %064 783 2240; h9am-9pm; /·1132 g701, Woljeong-ri stop) Here’s a cafe with a nice beach vibe. Funky interior design, de- #\\ cent drinks, Sam Miguel with a side of fries Namwon on the roof overlooking Woljeong beach, and 4 friendly, English-speaking staff. Toasted rice cake sprinkled with bean powder is a house speciality. Heavy, gooey and sticky, one order is probably enough for two people. 5 Sehwa-ri & Hado-ri 신양리, 하도리 EF Tucked into the northeast corner of the Gimnyeong Maze Park PARK island, this pocket of quiet, rural life is of- ten overlooked by tourists in a hurry to get (김녕미로공원; %064 782 9266; http://jeju down the road to Seongsan Ilchul-bong. maze.com; adult/child/youth ₩3300/1100/2200; Travellers with a car, and extra time, might consider getting off the main highway here and driving the Sehwa seashore road for splendid ocean views. h8.30am-6pm; g701, Manjang-gul stop) This 1 Sights popular maze is fun for adults and children. Created by American expat Fred Dunstin Haenyeo Museum MUSEUM from 2232 Leyland cypress trees, it’s fiend- (해녀 박물관; %064 710 7771; www.h­ aenyeo. go.kr; adult/youth ₩1100/800; h9am-6pm; ishly clever. g701, museum stop) The highlight of Getting here by bus is inconvenient, as it’s a 30-minute walk from the 701 bus stop. A H­ ado-ri, a small east-coast fishing town, is ₩6500 taxi from Gimnyeong here, followed this museum, which does an excellent job by a 15-minute walk to Manjang-gul, is a explaining the history and culture of the cost-effective way to combine both sights in amazing haenyeo (p245). one trip.

244 J e j u - d o SE ael seoetnpegirsnnagnJ&e- rjEiua&-tdiSonignyang - r i Jeju-do Jungmun Beach Golf Club ...........(see 29) 34 Oedolgae ..................................................C4 æ Top Sights 35 Olle Trail 1 ................................................. F2 1 Jeju April 3 Peace Park .......................... D2 Pinx Golf Club................................. (see 45) æ Sights 36 Seongpanak Trail ....................................D3 2 Biyangdo .................................................. A3 37 Shangri-la Yacht Tour.............................B4 3 Cheonjeyeon Pokpo ............................... B4 38 Yeongsil Trail............................................C3 4 Gimnyeong Beach ................................... E1 39 Yongmeori Coast.....................................B4 5 Haenyeo Museum....................................F2 ÿ Sleeping 6 Halla-san .................................................. C3 40 Baume Couture Boutique Hotel............C2 7 Hallim Park .............................................. A3 41 David House Food and Guesthouse .....A2 8 Iho Tewoo Beach .................................... C2 42 Emerald Pension Castle ..........................E1 9 Jeju Glass Castle..................................... A3 43 Gaga Pension ............................................E1 Jeju Loveland.................................. (see 10) 44 Gold Beach Minbak .................................B4 10 Jeju Museum of Art ................................ C2 11 Jeju Museum of Contemporary Lotte Hotel Jeju .............................(see 29) Art .......................................................... A3 45 Podo Hotel................................................B3 12 Jeju Peace Museum ............................... A3 46 Ssari's Flower Hill .................................... F2 13 Jeju Stone Park ....................................... D2 47 The Seaes Hotel & Resort......................C4 14 Jusangjeollidae ....................................... C4 ú Eating 15 Kim Young Gap Gallery Dumoak ...........E3 48 Dasi Boesi................................................. F2 16 Manjang-gul..............................................E2 49 Donatos ....................................................A3 17 Marado ..................................................... A5 18 Museum of Sex & Health ....................... B4 Ha Young ........................................(see 44) 19 O'Sulloc Tea Museum ............................ B3 50 Harubang Pizza .......................................A3 20 Sanbanggul-sa ........................................ B4 Jeju Mawon ....................................(see 29) 21 Sanbangsan............................................. B4 Mayflower.......................................(see 50) 22 Sangumburi............................................. D2 û Drinking & Nightlife 23 Saryeoni Forest....................................... D2 51 Lazybox Café ...........................................B4 24 Seogwipo ................................................. C4 52 Woljeong-ri Lowa......................................E1 25 Spirited Garden....................................... A3 ý Entertainment 53 Aroma Night.............................................C2 Teddy Bear Museum.................... (see 29) 54 Let's Run Park..........................................B3 26 Udo Lighthouse Park...............................F2 ï Information 27 World Cup Stadium ................................ C4 55 Jeju Welcome Center..............................C2 56 KTO Tourist Information Jeju World Eros Museum......................(see 27) 28 Yakcheon-sa............................................ C4 Office......................................................C2 29 Yeomiji Botanical Garden ...................... B4 Tourist Information Centre Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Jeju Airport.................................. (see 56) 30 Donnaeko Trail........................................ C3 31 Eorimok Trail ........................................... C3 32 Eoseungsaengak Trail............................ C3 33 Gwaneum-sa Trail................................... C2 Buses from Jeju-si (₩2800, 80 minutes, oDasi Boesi KOREAN ₩ every 20 minutes) stop near the museum (다시버시; %064 783 5575; meal for 2 people entrance. ₩12,000-20,000; h11am-8pm; g701, m­ useum 4 Sleeping & Eating stop) If you’ve spent time exploring the Haenyeo Museum, do yourself a favour and oSsari’s Flower Hill eat here. This shop serves delicious feasts PENSION ₩₩ of grilled mackerel and tofu stew. Near the (%010 9134 7741, 064 782 5933; www.jejussari. com; r incl breakfast ₩60,000, higher weekends beach road, it’s a 10-minute walk from the museum. Note: it doesn’t serve lone diners. & May-Sep; aW) Surrounded by farms and woods, this beautiful countryside guest- house is an ideal location to get away from it all. Go for lazy walks on Hado beach (a few Seongsan-ri & Sinyang-ri kilometres down the road), or grab some 성산리, 시냥리 quiet time with a book and glass of wine in the 1st-floor coffee shop. It’s run by a Japa- A must-see destination, Seongsan-ri (For- nese woman and her shaggy dog. tress Mountain Village) and the neigh-

245 HAENYEO: JEJU’S FREE DIVERS J e j u - d o SE aiegsohtntegsrsna&nJAe-crjtiui&-vdiStoiineysang - r i Jeju-do is famous in Korea for its women, in particular the hardy haenyeo. Statues cel- ebrate these free divers all along the coast and it’s not uncommon to spot the real deal preparing to dive on the seashore or bobbing in the ocean. For centuries Jeju-do women have been engaged in this form of fishing to gather shell- fish, sea cucumbers, spiky black sea urchins and anything else edible. Working as co- operatives and sharing their catch, they use low-tech gear – polystyrene floats, flippers, nets, knives and spears – but no oxygen tanks. Until recently they didn’t wear wetsuits, despite diving for long hours in all weather. They are able to hold their breath underwater for up to two minutes and reach a depth of 20m. Great physical stamina is a prerequisite and yet many of the haenyeo are in their 60s, if not older. With around 5000 haenyeo on Jeju-do (down from a peak of 30,000 in the 1950s), it’s a dying profession – daughters these days are not keen to follow in their mothers’ flip- pers. However, since 2008, at Hallim, a school has been helping to preserve the legacy by teaching anyone who wants to learn the haenyeo’s free-diving skills. Call %011 691 6675 to find out how to take part in a one-day experience. Brenda Paik-Sunoo’s book Moon Tides: Jeju Island Grannies of the Sea and the 2004 movie My Mother the Mermaid provide insights into the lives of haenyeo. bouring village of Sinyang-ri are at the foot leads down to this lovely ­crescent-shaped of a spectacular extinct volcano that rises cove backed by ­weather-beaten lava cliff straight out of the ocean. Black-sand beach- walls and boulders. On the left side of the es are nearby, as is the lovely island of Udo beach, haenyeo divers run a small restau- and the Seopji-koji peninsula, with breath- rant and put on a performance of their taking architecture by the Japanese master skills every day at 1.30pm and 3pm. Next to Ando Tadao. the restaurant, small speedboats (per trip ₩10,000) can whisk you out to sea for anoth- 1 Sights & Activities er perspective on Ilchul-bong. oSeongsan Ilchul-bong VOLCANO Phoenix Island ARCHITECTURE (성산일출봉; http://jejuwnh.jeju.go.kr; adult/ (%064 731 7000; www.phoenixisland.co.kr; Seop- youth ₩2000/1000; h1hr before sunrise-8pm; g701, Seongsan stop) This majestic 182m-high ji-koji; adult/child ₩2000/1000; h9am-6pm) Coach­loads of tourists disgorge here daily tuff volcano, shaped like a giant punchbowl, to view the scenic location that has been is one of Jeju-do’s most impressive sights. The forested crater is ringed by jagged rocks, featured in several Korean TV dramas and movies. But the real stars of the Seopji-­koji though there’s no lake because the rock is ­Peninsula are two pieces of architecture porous. From the entrance, climbing the steep stairs to the crater rim only takes 20 by Ando Tadao: Glass House, housing the restaurant Mint (p247), and the amazing minutes. Doing it in time to catch the sun- G­ enius Loci, a gallery with site-specific rise is a life-affirming journey for many Ko- reans – expect plenty of company. works that aid meditation. Both buildings are angled to frame Seongsan Ilchul-bong To do the sunrise expedition, you’ll have (p245), providing yet more perspectives on to spend the night in Seongsan-ri, a sleepy village filled with motels and restaurants ca- the volcano. A taxi here from Seongsan-ri is around tering to the hiking crowd. The steps up the ₩5000. volcano are easy and clear, but if you’re con- cerned, bring a torch. Not an early riser? It’s Sea Life Scuba DIVING also a popular daytime hike. The Seongsan (씨라이프 다이브 리조트; %010 5283 8144, 064 783 0012; http://sealifekorea.com; Seongsan- Sunrise Festival, an all-night New Year’s Eve po; h7am-6pm) Mr Park speaks some English party, is held here every 31 December. and can take you diving inside underwater Ilchul-bong Beach BEACH caves and around coral reefs. A day trip with (g701, Seongsan stop) At the eastern base of two dives costs ₩150,000, including guide Seongsan Ilchul-bong (p245), a long staircase and equipment.

246 e# 0 1 km 0 0.5 miles Seongsan Ilchul-bong C D AB UdoD 1 Seongsan Ferry 1 Terminalf# 2 3 Seongsan-ri#\\ 4 5 J e j u - d o ES ael seoetnpegirsnnagnJ e- rjiu&- dSoi nyang - r i ·/1132 Bus Stop 6 ›# 10 2 8 ÿ# #ú Ilchul-bong Ticket Office 4444ÿ#9 p#6#ü1#1Ø# 7 Ù# 4 Seongsan RIlchul-bong (182m) 44443 #æ 1 Ù# Seongsan Beach Seongsan Ilchul-bong 4444·/1119 4444 #\\ Goseong-ri 4 4444 SOUTH SEA (East China Sea) 4444·/1132 44445 \\#Sinyang-ri 444444 #æ 5 4444 2æ# æ# 3 Seopji-koji 44446 Peninsula ABCD 4 Sleeping Seongsanpo Village HOTEL ₩₩ (성산포빌리지; %064 782 2373; r ₩40,000; There’s plenty of accommodation in Seong- ai) Sit out on a balcony with a wonderful san-ri. You’ll also find grannies on the main view of the sea and anything going on along road to Ilchul-bong offering minbak (pri- the harbour road. It also has a good restau- vate) rooms. rant on the ground floor.

247 Seongsan Ilchul-bong Mint INTERNATIONAL ₩₩₩ (%064 731 7000; www.phoenixisland.co.kr; set æ Top Sights lunch/dinner from ₩40,000/56,000; h11.30am- 1 Seongsan Ilchul-bong ..........................D3 10pm; W) Dining inside Ando Tadao’s Glass House is a delightful experience, one best æ Sights enjoyed during the day when you can take in 2 Genius Loci ........................................... C6 the coastal views through the floor-to-c­ eiling 3 Glass House.......................................... C6 windows. The menu offers high-grade local 4 Ilchul-bong Beach.................................D3 produce such as black pork. 5 Phoenix Island .......................................B5 Café It Suda CAFE Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 6 Sea Life Scuba.......................................C3 (커피잇수다; %070 4416 2510; h9am-7pm; 7 Speedboat Dock ...................................C2 W) There are plenty of chain cafes around Seongsan Ilchul-bong, but this independent, J e j u - d o ES ae sot itnneggren&u pJDerFjoiunl-kkdionVgi l l age ÿ Sleeping artsy cafe has bags more charm. It also sells 8 Bomulseom ...........................................C2 Olle Trail souvenirs and other attractive lo- Phoenix Island ............................... (see 5) cal items. It’s on the village’s main road, near 9 Seongsanpo Village..............................C3 the street leading to the Ilchul-bong ticket office. ú Eating 10 Haeddeuneun........................................C2 88 Getting There & Away Mint................................................. (see 3) Buses (₩3300, 1½ hours, every 20 minutes) û Drinking & Nightlife run to Seongsan-ri from Jeju-si and Seogwipo 11 Café It Suda ...........................................C3 bus terminals. Make sure the bus goes right into Seongsan-ri as a few stay on the main road, Bomulseom PENSION ₩₩ dropping you 2.5km from the village centre. (보물섬; %064 784 0039; r from ₩50,000; ais) This hilltop pension has well-kept From the Seongsan ferry terminal boats sail and equipped self-catering rooms with en- to Udo (return ₩5500, 15 minutes, at least closed balconies. In July and August a swim- hourly from 8am to 5pm) and Jangheung (one ming pool is available. It’s on a hill, a block way adult/child ₩37,000/18,500, two hours 20 off the main road, surrounded by a few other minutes, two to four daily) in Jeolla-do; see www. jhferry.com for details. motels. Seongeup Folk Village 성읍민속마을 Phoenix Island APARTMENT ₩₩₩ (%064 731 7000; www.phoenixisland.co.kr; apt from ₩300,000; aiWs) The enormous and comfortable self-catering apartments Give yourself an hour to explore the narrow at this resort are great for families or lanes zigzagging alongside lava rock walls, groups of friends to share. You have ac- traditional homes with thatched roofs, more cess to plenty of on-site facilities, nearby than a few hareubang (old grandfather) beaches and beautiful views of Seongsan statues and the occasional baby black pig Ilchul-bong. in this folk village (성읍민속마을; h24hr; g720, Seongeup Folk Village stop) F. If the 5 Eating & Drinking gate poles are down, you’re welcome to en- ter. Modern intrusions into the village in- There’s a good number of restaurants and clude souvenir shops, restaurants and car cafes in and around the entrance of Seong- parks, but most of it still looks fantastically san Ilchul-bong. feudal. Look out for the Confucian school and the 1000-year-old zelkova tree. Haeddeuneun SEAFOOD ₩₩ (해뜨는식당; %064 782 3380; mains from The village is surrounded by a fortress ₩10,000; h8am-9pm) At the top of a hill and wall punctuated by ornate entrance gates; close to a cliff with great ocean views, this Nammun (south gate) is the main gate. place is a little apart from the cluster of 5 Eating restaurants at the foot of Seongsan Ilchul- bong. The menu covers many common local oYetnal Patjuk KOREAN ₩ (옛날 팥죽; %064 787 3357; mains from ₩5500; options, including abalone rice porridge, h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; W; g720, Seongeup Folk sea-urchin soup and seafood hotpot.

248 Seogwipo e# 0 500 m 0 0.25 miles 666A B C D Iljudong-ro Jungang Jeongbang-ro Rotary #› Seonbannae-gil Seomun-ro Taepye 1 22 1 Dongmun-ro ong-ro Lee Jung Seop-ro Jungang-ro 2 Cheongji-ro am World Cup Seogwipo #› (5km); Stadium (5km) 666666666662 1Y# J e j u - d o ES ae sot itnneggrenu pJ eFjoul-kd oV i l l age D 14 ú# Jeongbang-ro D SSeReooohtmoanruyLgniBmSuJtrosueunSsgtion2jepe3o#›#,ng#ÿ-#›r#ÿo7BL1ium0soSutsoipne#òÿ#8 BJa1enü#1ì#jukú#15ü#ü#ú#â#M1161T73y2aeeopnyJgeudonongng-jgre-oroong- ro ï# # 2 Y#ï# #ï 21 19 ro p# 6Chilsimni-ro 20 3 ong s an- Jeju Olle Oedolgae 9 ÿ# Trail Head ü# St Office 3 6666666(2km) 18 ú# Sold Budu-ro 13 ilsimni Food 666æ#566C 66 h 44 66664#÷ 6 6665 5 ABCD Village stop) Everything about this restau- Minseok-ro – on the left. Look for the shop rant, housed in a traditional building, is with a gravel parking lot. inviting. Inside the door you’re greeted by warm smiles and the sweet earthy aroma of Gwandangnae Sikdang KOREAN ₩₩ red beans. Excellent soups and porridge are (관당네식당; %064 787 1055; mains from served here, including some made from lo- ₩12,000; h8am-7pm; g720, Seongeup Folk tus flowers, pumpkin and seaweed. Wooden Village stop) The ebullient owner of this res- tables, exposed beams and heavy earthen- taurant is known for his succulent black-pig ware add to the rustic charm. pork dishes – a massive banquet for two is ₩35,000. From the small retail plaza out- Coming from the south gate, go to the side the south gate, walk about 50m into the first intersection and turn left. Go about hamlet of traditional buildings. Look for the 50m and turn left at the first street. The shop with a weather-worn Korean flag. restaurant is down the road – Seongeup

249 Seogwipo 13 Saesom Galbi...........................................B3 J e j u - d o SGeootugttiwhneigproTnhJeerjeu -&d Aoway 14 Seogwipo Olle Market.............................C2 æ Sights û Drinking & Nightlife 1 Cheonjiyeon Pokpo................................. A2 15 Architecture Cafe Utopia .......................C2 2 Jeongbang Pokpo................................... D3 16 Ba Nong ....................................................C2 3 Lee Jung-Seop Art Gallery & Park........ C2 17 Cafe Mayb ................................................C2 4 Saeseom .................................................. B4 18 Rose Marin ...............................................B3 5 Saeyeon-gyo & Saeseom ...................... B4 ï Information 19 Cheonjiyeon Pokpo Ticket Office..........B3 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 20 Jeongbang Pokpo Tourist 6 Big Blue 33............................................... C3 Information ...........................................D3 ÿ Sleeping 21 Seogwipo Tourist Information 7 Backpacker's Home ............................... B2 8 Hotel Little France .................................. B2 Centre ....................................................B3 9 Shinsung Hotel........................................ C3 ï Transport 10 Sun Beach Hotel ..................................... B2 22 Jungang Bus Terminal............................ B1 23 Scooter & Free Zone...............................B2 ú Eating 11 Kkomjirak................................................. C2 12 Meokbo Bunsik ....................................... C2 88 Getting There & Away 1 Sights From Jeju-si, take bus 720 (₩2300, one hour, Lee Jung-Seop Art Gallery & Park MUSEUM every 20 minutes) and get off at the stop at the (%064 760 3567; http://jslee.seogwipo.go.kr; Lee car park near Nammun. From Seogwipo, take Jung-Seob St; adult/youth ₩1000/500; h9am- bus 701 east to Pyoseon (₩2300, 50 minutes, 6pm Tue-Sun) On the street that is named af- every 20 minutes) and transfer to bus 720 to ter him, and decorated with images from his Seongeup (₩1200, 10 minutes, every 20 min- distinctive paintings and drawings, is this utes). A taxi from Pyoseon is about ₩7000. small museum devoted to Lee Jung-Seop (1916–56). Outside, on a lovely manicured SOUTHERN JEJU-DO lawn with fragrant trees, is the traditional Jeju house in which the artist lived for a If you only have a short time on Jeju-do, short time in 1951. A four-day festival is held make Segwipo your base. It has the best cli- in September to celebrate Lee. mate and coastal scenery, plus easy access to Halla-san and Seongsan Ilchul-bong. Saeyeon-gyo & Saeseom BRIDGE, ISLAND Seogwipo (새연교 | 새섬; hdawn-11pm) F The at- 서귀포 tractive cable-stayed Saeyeon-gyo bridge at the mouth of Seogwipo Harbour provides POP 155,000 access to densely wooded Saeseom (Sod Island), around which runs a shady 1.1km Jeju-do’s second-largest city is beautifully trail. It’s a favourite spot to stroll at sunset situated on a rocky volcanic coastline dot- and the bridge is also nicely illuminated at ted with lush parks, a deep gorge and two night. waterfalls. The clear blue waters and mild ocean temperatures make Seogwipo Korea’s Cheonjiyeon Pokpo WATERFALL best scuba-diving destination and it’s also an ideal base for hiking. (천지연폭포; adult ₩2000, youth & child ₩1000; h7am-10pm) This 22m-high waterfall is The town centre (up a steep slope from reached after a 10-minute walk through a the harbour) is full of motels and hotels. The beautifully forested, steep gorge. The water­ main bus terminal and other attractions fall can be impressive following heavy rain; are clustered around the World Cup Stadi- at other times it’s more noisy than wide. um, 6km west of town in Shin Seogwipo. Well worth visiting in the evening, too, J­ ungm­ un Resort is also within easy day-trip when the illuminated gorge takes on a ro- distance. mantic atmosphere. The falls are on Olle Trail 6.