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“A trek through the Basque Country. The Northern way of the Camino De Santiago\" A journal of the day to day experiences of James Aulestia in the fall of 2018. A story for those members of the family that have any interest in the value of fun adventures. (Ten days of quiet Meditation)

Foreword The Saga of the Camino continues. It started on the rst year anniversary of our rst pilgrimage, September 12, 2018. That morning, I awoke with a feeling the Portuguese call “Saudage.” It means something greater that sadness, is a longing. In my case it was a longing for the “Camino experience.” Thus, I started reviewing my notes and pictures. It brought back the memories of the experiences I shared last year with Victor, Terry, Victor William and Trish. Thus, I wrote book one. I have to say that it was fun doing it. However, the longing persisted and on Oct 31, 2018, I was at Norfolk International Airport boarding a plane to Philadelphia and then a plane to Madrid. Traveling solo and so late in the fall was a bit worrisome. It made me inch and to have second thoughts. However, they were not strong enough to stop the longing. Thus, I opted to be positive and proclaimed, “Que sera, sera,” Trusting and asking God for his loving care... Upon arrival in Madrid the adventure began. What an adventure it was walking through the Basque Country, starting in San Sebastián and following the heights of the beautiful shore line along the Cantabric Sea for several days before moving towards the interior, then climbing and descending the mountains that most likely my ancestors traveled on... From the moment I started the trek I felt a great familiarity with the countryside and those amazing mountains. In fact, there were times of recurring feelings that I have been there before... In that trek, I found that the attraction of the Northern Way lies not only in the magni cent views of the cobalt color sea but also the alluring of the tough green mountains, rocky crests, steep hills, the charming villages with red-roofed whitewashed houses, beautiful farms and luscious vineyards. The Camino del Norte is certainly much more picturesque than the French way and de nitely much more challenging. Even so it was a lonely trek, I am glad I did it as I learned much about my roots and about myself. It was another adventure not to ever forget. 1a ififlfifif

A little something about the Basque As I was seating on the plane to Spain, I remembered an interesting and informative book that I purchased back in 2012, “The Basque History of the World.” Having a Digital copy, I proceeded to read it again. From this reading I saved some notes to share in this background page. My thanks to the author of the book, Mark Kurlansky. Few people know the Basques. The stereotype is that they are tenacious, persevering and rugged with a determination to preserve the tribe with its culture and unique language. What Lewy D’Abartiague observed in his study of their origins in 1896 remains true today: “The Basques are one of the unique people-islands to be found on the face of the earth, completely different in every sense from the peoples around them, and their language, surrounded by Aryan languages, forms an island somehow comparable to those peaks which still surface above the water in a ood zone... This people is perhaps the only one in the world, at the least the only one in Europe, whose origin remains absolutely unknown.” As of today, they are still a mystery. I like the comparison to an island because that is how I have always envision them, a people on an island building opportunity bridges to the various continents... quoting Mark Kurlansky “Basques at times think they are the world. They feel inexplicably secure about their place among nations. But more important, Basques, while they are protecting their unique and separate identity, always endeavor to be in the world... Considering how small a group the Basques are, they have made remarkable contributions to world history. In the Age of Exploration they were the explorers who connected Europe to North America, South America, Africa, and Asia. At the dawn of capitalism they were among the rst capitalists, experimenting with tariff-free international trade and the use of competitive pricing to break monopolies. Early in the industrial revolution they became leading industrialists: shipbuilders, steelmakers, and manufacturers. Today, in the global age... the Basques, an anomaly in Europe, they still remain deeply religious and unabashedly nationalistic. Willing to be part of a united Europe, to seize its opportunities and work within it, just as they saw advantages to the Roman Empire, Ferdinand’s consolidation of Spain, and the French Revolution... Determined to loose nothing that is theirs.” 1b fifl

The Northern Way - El Camino del Norte According to my research, El Camino del Norte is the second longest route to Santiago de Compostela after the Vía de la Plata or Southern Route. Through experience I found that it is also the most grueling and demanding and less popular of all the Ways to Santiago. Thus, one could ask why choose it. In my case, the main pull was that it crosses the Basque Country, the land of my ancestors. Walking through it would provide answers to questions I have ever since I learned, at an early age, that I was a Basque, that my roots go back to the beautiful Valley of Aulesti... Due to the lateness of the season, I chose to walk only the second phase starting at San Sebastián and ending in Bilbao. This ancestral route, also called the Coastal Way, goes back to the 9th century during the occupation of Spain by the Moores. Becoming the best route during the reconquest. With the reuni cation of Spain, it took second place to the French way. However, in recent years it has become popular again because of the beauty of the landscape along and above the seashore and through the magni cent mountains and beautiful resort towns... The Northern Way starts in Irún near the French border, crossing through the Basque Country, then through Cantabria and Asturias to enter Galicia through the town of Ribadeo, where it joins the French way before reaching Santiago de Compostela. 2 fifi

The Preparation I was in Idaho preparing to travel to Virginia when all of a sudden the urge to return to the “Camino” occurred. Thus, the research started. I made inquires to a Pilgrim’s company to get an idea of the services offered this late in the season. The information was helpful. However, as they did not offer several required services, I settled for Santiago Ways. The only obstacle was that they required a wire transfer that appear to be a bit complex. Thus, being in Idaho, I stopped by ZIONS Bank and got it done in minutes... The rest was much more simple once I found a half off price ticket with American Airlines. The same was with Iberia airlines and Salta (the bus transport to San Sebastián, my starting point). I did have a miscommunication with Santiago ways, they started reservations on Nov 2 instead of Nov 1. Which meant that on arrival, I would have no hotel. Fortunately I had plenty of time to surf the web and get a room in the same hotel at less than half price. Santiago ways wanted 200€. (Next time, we will make our own hotel reservations.) The price of experience... My lift to the airport by Lyft was very comfortable and fast, and the y to Philadelphia very short, it took longer to move from the gate to the main runway. 3 fl

The adventure begins I was certainly surprised that the Philadelphia International airport was so big. After a transfer of terminals by bus, I boarded the plane to Madrid. Due to some mechanical problem, departure was delayed for over an hour. However, the y was pleasant, the dinner excellent and after eight hours we landed in Madrid. The plane being late caused me to miss my bus connection to San Sebastián, consequently, I had to wait for the next available bus for three hours. It gave me the opportunity to explore the terminal, specially the enormous and confusing departure level.. since it is a mad house, I had to make myself familiar where to go and the check-in steps for my return to the USA. As I waited, I was fascinated by the number of people that move through terminal T4 alone, a great number indeed. The Madrid Barajas airport is probably the largest in Europe area wise, and the sixth- busiest airport with over 53 million passengers annually. There is also a fast rail train station in the lower level, and the bus stop to San Sebastián is just outside the terminal. The bus trip was pleasant on an excellent highway moving along rolling hills and traveling through several villages and good size towns like Aranda de Duero, Burgos, Vitoria Gasteiz, Eibar and Zarautz. We arrived at the beautiful city of San Sebastián Donostia after dark. A quick taxi trip took me to the very nice hotel Codina. 4 fl

The city of San Sebastián Donostia After many years of wanting to visit the Basque Country, the dream nally became a reality. I am happy that my starting point was the beautiful resort city of San Sebastián, the capital city of the Basque province of Gipuzkoa, located on the coast of the Bay of Biscay and only 12 miles from the border with France where the Camino del Norte begins. It is a city known for its culture and outstanding Architecture. 5 fi

Having so much to see and limited time, I decided to start my visit at the Eduardo Chillida’s promenade walk along the La Concha Bay where it faces the imposing Santa Clara Island. The walk provides so many amazing views of the sea and the neighboring mount Igueldo in the distance. The walk ends at a location where the art meets with the sea. The collection of Chillida’s sculptures is entitled “El Peine del Viento.” 6

Near Chillida’s “El Peine del Viento,” is the foot of the Igueldo mountain and the Funicular rail, circa 1912. It climbs the face of the mountain to the top where there is an old era amusement park. There the views of La Concha Bay and the entire city San Sebastián are breath taken... A monumental eighteenth century Torreón tower rises from the centre of the fairground. 7

The European Capital of culture since 2011, San Sebastián is known for its grand religious Architecture, international festivals, museums, galleries, cinemas, theaters, and sculptures. As someone said, “it tastes and smells of culture.” It is the city where the most Basque is spoken. 40% of its inhabitants speak Basque and another 30% understand it. The people I met were certainly polite and very friendly. 8

After my sightseeing exploration, I decided that I must locate the entrance to the Camino. The directions I got at the hotel were good and and I was able to locate the directional signs. I then followed the signs for a while. I was ready to start the trek... because it was raining, I returned to the hotel for a good meal and rest... next morning the adventure started in an uphill very wet stone paved trail which after a while changed to a gravel one. 9

San Sebastián to Zarautz I started this stage at the Amara train station just half a block from the La Concha beach, moving towards the Igeldo mountain by the way of Miramar Palace. Then I ascended the mount and surely enjoyed the magni cent views of the bay and the city. Moving through a forest, the rst climb is taxing as the path rapidly ascends to just under 1000 feet. Then the trek continues on a paved road and trail for a good while through some very nice bordering woods, neighborhoods and hamlets. Once in the countryside, a slow descent follows by an old stone Roman way moving in the direction to the city of Orio by the way of some very primitive natural trails that tests one’s patience and endurance as the mud forces you to slip and slide. I found myself twice seating in the mud and praying for a shepherd’s crook. Just 10 feet away I found a branch from which I made a walking stick. It saved my sanity. About this time I met two Basque French Pilgrims. One walked with easy and fast, while the other walked slowly and carefully. Soon I found myself walking between the two. At a rest stop we became friends and were able to communicate using Spanish and English. At noon we reached the colorful city of Orio where we had lunch. The afternoon walk was pleasant as we bordered the coast on the way to the magni cent city of Zarautz. The views were spectacular. 10 fififi

The Road to Zarautz Beautiful farms, mountains, forests, green valleys, towns in the distance. Amazing views all around. Just silence and beauty all around. We were the only ones walking the Camino as the pilgrimage season was over. 11

The Road to Zarautz ⬆ The town of Orio by the river of the same name. Here we took a break for lunch, my rst real Basque meal. The walk through the town on the way to the Camino was most pleasant. From then on it was country. ⬇ Vineyards, farms, amazing countryside. 12 fi

The Road to Zarautz ⬆ The trail above the sea shore. ⬇ The city of Zarautz in the distance. 13

Zarautz to Getaria After reaching Zarautz, I said goodbye to my Basque friends and called the hotel for transportation. The clerk advised me that contrary to the instructions from Santiago Ways, they did not provide transportation. Based on her instructions I walked to the end of the town until I found the taxi stand. From there I took a taxi to the hotel located 5 km away and way above the town of Getaria. At the hotel, the rst thing the innkeeper said was, “Mr. Aulestia, you do not know how close you are to the heart of your Roots, there are many Aulestias in this area.” His comments gave me some special feelings of belonging there... the Inn was comfortable yet of a different vintage. It projected a vision of how country living was in days past. Being too tired to have dinner, I retired after washing my thoroughly muddied clothes and shoes... In the morning, I started a long walk down to Getaria where the Camino starts again. Then I started the Camino to Zumaia - Deba on a very steep uphill cobblestone paved trail. It was very dif cult to say the least. This phase was hard because of the steep uphills and the abrupt descents. The worse part was the primitive paths because of the thick mud... The most interesting towns I passed were Askizu, Zumaia, Elorriaga and Itziar before reaching the destination for the day, at the city of Deba. 14 fifi

The Road to Zumaia- Deba ⬆ The countryside on the way to Zumaia. ⬇ The city of Zumaia. 15

Montreal de Deba The best part of this phase was the amazing views of the country side and of the sea. The worse, the physical demands. About the rst hour I realized that one has to be in good physical condition for this phase. One thing I missed was the presence of other pilgrims as I was the only one in the trail... The last section starting at Itziar drops over 900 Ft before reaching the town of Monreal de Deva. The trails in this section are so primitive that at times I was tempted to just follow the main highway. The trek surely was taxing physically as well as mentally. Monreal de Deva’s origins date back to 1343. Until the 19th century, its port was well known for the shipping of goods and specially wool to various European countries. With the decline of the export industry, Deba quickly adjusted its economy, shifting to tourism. In fact it became one of the pioneers of tourism in Europe. Today is a prosperous town… The hotel is located two miles away from the Camino. The walk through the town did remain me of the hilly streets of old Quito. It was good to get to the hotel, a very nice pension indeed... My clothes were so muddy that I had to wash them before I took a good hot shower. Even so I had only one meal all day, I was so exhausted that I did prefer no to go out to nd a restaurant. Thanks for granola bars and some candy from the front desk. 16 fifi

Deba to Mutriku - Markina So far the Camino trails moved parallel to the Coast of the Cantabric Sea and through the Province of Gipuzkoa. I climbed steep hills, crossed green rolling elds, beautiful farms and vineyards and descended most primitive and steep trails. Now it was time to move inland away from the coast. The actual Camino started after crossing a long cable suspended bridge and going uphill for a long stretch. Then moving further inland and crossing more mountains than before, meaning rough uphills and grueling downhills. Without a doubt, it is the toughest phase of the Camino del Norte. I was doing well following the signage for about half of the way. However, vandals had messed with the signage and I lost my way. Thanks to my phone’s gps I was able to get to the nearest highway, which I followed until I found another entrance to the Camino. After a while, all of a sudden rain started pouring and to make matters worse, I lost the Camino again and had to descent to the friendly town of Mutriku the rst town in the province of Bizkaia. I walked in the town for a while. However, I could not nd the Camino and had to follow the highway on the way to Ondarroa. One thing I have to say about the people trying to give me directions, they were the nicest Basques I have ever met. 17 fififi

Ondarroa to Markina From Ondarroa I moved for the next 3 hours as fast as my hurting legs allowed, until I nally reached the center of Markina. Then I walked another 1.5 miles to the hotel Antsotegi. The owners were kind enough to drive me to a nice restaurant. After a long hiking day I was starving and ordered the meal of the day which consisted of half a loaf of artisan bread, a large bowl of garbanzo soup with well cooked cauli ower, ribs with fried potatoes and an for dessert. I surely liked the hearty soup. Markina lies between the provinces of Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia. It marks the location where the Gipuzkoanos often battled the Bizkainos during medieval times... The town centre still maintains its medieval layout with a sampling of buildings of that time like the church of El Carmen, the palaces Solartekua (present Town Hall), Andonegi and Ansotegi, Antxia tower and the former Town Hall. From my days as an Architect, I recall Markina being famous for its black marble. It is also known for being the birthplace of great Basque pelota players (Jai Alai). The basic economy lies in agriculture and cattle rising, and the metal industry for weapons... At the hotel, the accommodations were very good. After a good nights rest and a ne continental breakfast, I was ready for a new day of hiking on the way to Gernika. 18 fiflflfi

Markina to Gernika The rain was pouring down when I started walking as I left the hotel. I moved on fast for the next two miles in search for the directional Camino signs. I suppose more signs are needed as I had a hard time locating the entrance... the trail at rst was narrow and very slippery. Somehow I managed to stay positive, it paid off, as the trail became wider and better after an hour or so. After a while I approached the rst serious Hill on the way to the town of Bolivar. By this time, the rain stopped and the clouds parted allowing the sun to nally shine. Happy day indeed, thanks for miracles. From then on, the path became steeper and rocky, maybe that is why it is called the “Vía Crucis” meaning path of suffering.... A slow assent took me to the impressive gothic stile school complex of the Colegiata de Zenarruza in Ziortza. The Camino goes right through the center of the campus. It is a beautiful place. I stopped there to chat with the Rector, a very nice old gentleman that wanted to practice his English. The trail from then on zig zagged uphill until it reached the top of peak Gontzagarigana, then it descended abruptly to the highway leading to the town of Munitibar. The nice part was that the very steep and dangerous path, has now a brand new wooden stair-path combination that certainly made the difference. I certainly was most grateful. 19 fififi

Markina- Bolívar ⬆ The trail on the way to Bolivar. ⬇ The town of Bolivar. 20

Bolivar - Ziortza - Munitibar ⬆ Colegiata de Zenarruza in Ziortza. ⬇ The descent from Gontzagarigana, to the town of Munitibar. 21

Munitibar To Gernika After the descent, a trail took me to Gerrikaitz and the neoclassical church of Santa Mar a, and after crossing the Lea River, the town of Munitibar. Being midday, I stopped for a break and lunch, a kind public works supervisor recommended a down to earth bar-restaurant, a favorite spot for the locals to gather for a meal and to socialize. I was going to ask for a menu, however, I quickly found out that there was the meal of the day for everyone and the only things to choose is the meat and the dessert. The 10€ meal was colorful, plentiful and delicious. It consisted of rustic bread, soup, Russian salad, a big chicken Paella, pork chops with fried potatoes and an apple pastry. I was glad I stopped there. To get back to the Camino, I had to cross the river Lea again and take an uphill path connecting to a local road in the way to Aldaka and its 18th century hermitage of Santiago. Before getting to Gernika I passed Berriondo, Elexalde, and Ajangiz on a moderate path bordered by pines and eucalyptus trees. The path improved substantially as it approached Gernika. The rain started pouring again... Using the gps I followed a street leading to downtown and shortly after I encountered the bus station where I stopped to check the schedule to the town of Aulesti. A few blocks away I reached my destination, the hotel Gernika. I was certainly happy another exceptional day was over. 22 í

The city of Gernika - Lumo In the morning I had a much better appreciation of this beautiful and prosperous municipality of about 17,000 inhabitants, it was founded in 1336 and combined with Lumo in 1882. It is located at an important crossroads and is part of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, the most important wetland in the Basque Country... Gernika among the Basque People has always represented the highest ideals of Democracy, Rights and Freedom... on a Text, Erik reminded me that Gernika was made famous outside Spain by Picasso’s art work entitled “My Guernica,” in which he masterfully captured the brutality of the 1937 bombing of the city by German and Italian planes Prominent buildings worth visiting include: Parish Church of Santa Mar a: built between 1418 and 1715. Moreover, the Convent of Santa Clara, with the Old Lordship Hospital. The Udetxea Palace, the Park of the Peoples of Europe, and the Gernika Peace Museum Foundation. Gernika is a colorful city indeed, as I was leaving the hotel on my way to the bus station, I had a very strong feeling that I have been there before. It felt so familiar. The same thing happened as the bus was leaving the city on the way to the birth place of the Aulestia family... As the clouds begun to move away, I was certainly grateful that it was going to be a beautiful sunny day. 23 í

Gernika ⬆ Gernika Peace Museum Foundation: Ceramic rendition of Pablo Picasso's \" Gernika\" ⬇ The Gernika Tree, a symbol of Bizkaia and the Basque People. 24

On the way to the Town and Municipality of Aulesti At the end of the rst day of this amazing adventure, at the Hotel the inn keeper, said, Mr Aulestia you do not know how close you are to the heart of the Aulestia family... there are many Aulestias in this region. It certainly made an impression on me, I was in the place where all started. The place that I have wanted to visit ever since I learned of my Basque roots. During the walk from Markina to Gernika, I started seeing directional signs to Aulesti. Thus, I decided that I must go there and see if that special feeling of belonging was still there.... As I arrived in Gernika, I decided to change the adventure for the next day. Thus, early in the morning I ventured and took a bus to Aulesti. What a pleasant drive it was, a sunny day, lovely green elds, thick green woods and picturesque country dwellings. 40 minutes onto the drive, the driver called my attention to let me know that in a few minutes we will be at the Plaza Aulestia. Wow! I was where my ancestors settled and raised families. I walked around for a while where they walked, then I sat on a bench at the plaza of Aulesti and just absorbed a sweet spirit and enjoyed that feeling of belonging there. I was interrupted by an old lady and her husband, a native of the area, curious of who I was and was I was doing there. 25 fifi

She said that this was the rst time she ever met someone bearing the name of Aulestia... I appreciated the conversation and the information they provided. Among other things, they mentioned the town of Derio in the way to Bilbao where the Archivo Histórico Eclesiastico de Bizkaia is located and is available for genealogical research. She added that it can also be accessed through their web site. Great news indeed. Aulesti is a town and municipality located in the province of Biscay, it is located just 27 miles from Bilbao, the capital of Biscay. It’s beginning goes back to Roman times. In fact there still remain nine small chapels from that time. It is a fertile area good for farming and cattle raising. It’s surrounding mountains are rich in the famed Nero Marquino Marble. Which is quarried and shipped worldwide. It was an interesting visit. As the bus approached, I said good bye and departed. I rode the bus until the driver called me and dropped me at about 6 miles from the town of Lezama. So walking I went again in search of the Camino De Santiago. Soon I found the signs along the route I was going. The walk for the next two hours was all urban, level and very pleasant. I wondered if the hiking on primitive trails was over as we were so close to Bilbao. 26 fi

The Town and Municipality of Aulesti ⬆ Plaza Aulestia, Municipal Building. ⬇ Main Street. 27

The Town and Municipality of Aulesti ⬆ Plaza Aulestia, San Juan Church ⬇ Main Street. 28

On the way to Lezama The gps took me along a wonderful tiled sidewalk and at times a paved shoulder of the road, to hotel Rural Matsa, an old country Inn. I was glad to arrive there but not so much when I was told that food would not be available until dinner time at 8 pm... ve hours later I nally had a nice meal and then a good rest in preparation for the last leg of my hike from San Sebastián to Bilbao in the “Camino del Norte.” 29 fifi

⬆ The church of Santa Maria de Lezama. Lezama to Bilbao If I thought that the rest of the way was going to be on urban neighborhoods, I was totally wrong, in fact, after a few blocks the nice tiled sidewalk changed to an easy dirt path above the highway leading to the industrial area of Zamudio. From then on, the path went up in a comfortable incline that took me to the Txorierri Corridor which is the start of a very steep climb to the top of Mount Avril via the Calzada de los Zamuidanos, an old Royal Camino route. The total climb from Zamudio is a 1049 Feet. At the top of mount Avril I found a nice recreation and picnic area where I was happy to take a break and recover before the descent to Bilbao. On the way down, on a more urban setting, I passed a 16th century basilica honoring the patron saint of Bizkaia, the Virgen of Bego a.” Then, following downhill streets, I nally reached the Miguel de Unamuno square and the 14th century Gothic cathedral of St James... I was in the city of Bilbao... I was pleased to have nished the San Sebastián - Bilbao portion of the Northern Way to Santiago de Compostela. 30 nifif̃

⬆ Old Bilbao’s Calzadas de Mallona, Stairs from the Camino to Unamuno Square. ⬇ Bilbao’s St James Cathedral. 31

Re ection on the last portion of the Camino to Bilbao The path up mount Avril was covered with a thick slippery mud when crossing open elds, it improved while passing under the cover of trees. Nevertheless, it was taxing on the feet and the mind. As I slowly climbed the mountain, it helped me to remember a quote Susan send me that very morning, “Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion” (Anatoli Boukreev)... The hike on mount Avril took me about 2.5 hours before I arrived at a nice picnic area with a view of the city of Bilbao in the distance below... From then on, the descent changed from country to urban with stairs and steep streets. My biggest concern as I descended, was to locate the hotel as my phone was very low in power and I still had a good walking hour. The last thing I saw in the maps’ app was that I was going in the right direction, then the phone died. It gave me a funny feeling being in a place I have never been before. I walked for a while wondering what were my options. Finding a taxi was the best option. However, you either had to call for one or you have to nd a place where taxis congregate... Then I saw a directional sign to the Guggenheim Museum. I decided to follow the route to the museum because there I could nd a taxi for sure. 32 fifififl

Well, I nally arrived at the museum, there I asked a taxi driver to take me to the hotel. She told me that the street of the hotel was only a block away. Wow, I could not believe it. From there, the hotel was just another two blocks away... after a cool down and a shower I went back out and had a delicious lunch. The afternoon I spent in the museum and it’s vicinity. What a work of art it is. 33 fi

⬆ The Nervión River Bridge adjacent to the Guggenheim Museum. ⬇ The business district adjacent to Doña Cacilda’s Park. 34

⬆ The Guggenheim Museum ⬇ Puppy the 20 ton oral sculpture outside of the Guggenheim. It changes color with the change of the seasons. 35 fl

Bilbao is a very important port in Spain. Since the 1870s, the strength of the region was the iron, steel and shipbuilding industries. With the decline of said industries in the 1960s and ’70s, the Tourism and Services industries emerged strong. With the redevelopment projects of the late 1900s the old shipyards have been transformed into a cultural and business centre that includes museums and art galleries, making Bilbao a city where art and architecture are one and the same. 36

⬆ The business district in front of the Guggenheim Museum. ⬇ Iberdrola glass tower within Doña Cacilda’s Park. 37

⬆ The University of Deusto behind the Guggenheim Museum. ⬇ Residential development along the Nervion River. 38

⬆ Doña Casilda’s Park and the Guggenheim Museum. ⬇ Memorial Promenade along the Nervion River. 39

Bilbao - Madrid - Philadelphia The hotel clerks were very kind and ef cient. The night clerk arranged the hotel transportation to the airport and at exactly 5 AM a taxi was at the door. The trip to the airport took about 20 minutes and even less to check in at the Iberia counter. However, to go through Security, I had to wait until the gate was posted as there are designated Security areas for groups of gates. Once the gate was posted, I had 30 minutes to board the plane. I was so glad when the plane was in the air. The y took one hour and fortunately arrived at the same terminal I was to depart back to Philadelphia. I certainly had plenty of time to have breakfast at a totally automated Mc Donald’s. I did not see a breakfast menus, consequently, I settled for a hamburger, French Fries and hot chocolate at a cost higher than a lunch in the Camino... I also had time to stop at one of the many money exchanges to change what was left of my Euros into Dollars. To avoid the mad house effect of so many people traveling and the rush at the designated Security Area, I made sure to be at the American Airline counter at least two hours early. Thus, everything went well and very smooth, and the ight to Philadelphia was very good and on time. The US Customs experience, not so good as several planes arrived at the same time. However, I was glad to be almost home. 40 flflfi

Re ections and Lessons For the 2017 adventure, because it was planned, I purposefully trained ahead and hardened my feet and legs by walking from 3 to 12 miles a day on a terrain similar to the one at the last phase of the French way. It also provided me with a great amount of endurance and discipline. For this adventure, as it was not planned, I had to relay on what I obtained during my daily routine of walking 4 to six miles a day along the Virginia Beach seashore and the concrete boardwalk. I had to say that it suf ced in Spain, even so the terrain was much more rugged with very steep hills. As for gear, my minimalistic philosophy worked again... Proven and comfortable all terrain shoes are a must. The Altra Torin designed for walking, tness, and cross training, did the job and survived the Basque Country’s rough terrain and deep mud trails. A Good thing, the shoes were easy to wash at the end of each day. Even better, I did not get even a hint of blisters. I have to say that the socks with toes and the feet rubbing with Tiger balm de nitely helped… Using a backpack transport service was a wise decision as I did not have to carry one. I wore long tactical trousers with several handy pockets for my two small at water bottles, three granola bars and a small rst aid kit of the size of a wallet. I wore a T shirt, an all weather jacket and a hat. My faithful Bandana did certainly had many uses. 41 iflfifififlf

Just in case, I had with me a neatly folded light raincoat. Which tted nicely in my waterproof iPad shuttle case, a very handy bag with a padded shoulder strap. The raincoat came handy in several occasions. The only annoying thing about light raincoats is the inside sweating after wearing it for a while. I truly enjoyed each day’s walk with its challenges. However, being along in the trail made me realize that I missed other people around, a good conversation and the great camaraderie of the French way while walking with the team Aulestia last year. However, I did have a lot of time to ponder and absorb all that beauty around me. I loved the farms with its pastures and haired cattle and woolly sheep. I was not so thrilled at the sudden thrust of dogs hitting chain link fences as I passed by. Then running full steam ahead along the fence barking like it was the end of the world. Talking about surprises, on the third day, I had an unexpected encounter with a large goat tied to its horns with a long chain. It was standing right on the middle of the trail, as he saw me he started hollering. I carefully approached the beast, And started worrying. However, my 2”thick, 5 ft long walking pole gave me the con dence to move on. I was planning to hit him hard in the nose if it made a belligerent move. I think he got my message and moved a bit as I rmly said ‘Pepper move out of the away,’ (I gave him a name). The goat moved, however, he insisted in following me until the chain stopped him. I took his hollering as a loud conversation from a lonely creature. Re ection and pondering brought to my mind the fact that I felt good and healthy. I recognized that I have been truly healthy all my life and even now almost 76 years young. Thus, I felt enormous gratitude and I expressed a heartfelt prayer for that particular blessing and for so many more. The prayer brought the memory of a hymn I learned to love as I conducted Sunday Chapel services at Fort Pickett. I loved singing it with a congregation of wonderful soldiers. I truly missed that phase of my life. Great Is Thy Faithfulness by Thomas Chisholm – 1925 Great Is Thy faithfulness, O God my Father! There is no shadow of turning with Thee. 42 lfififif

Thou changest not, Thy compassions, they fail not As Thou hast been Thou forever wilt be. Great Is Thy faithfulness, Great Is Thy faithfulness, Morning by morning new mercies I see; All I have needed Thy hand hath provided Great is Thy Faithfulness, Lord unto me! As I walked in rainy weather I realized that the walk is so much better during the cool dry season in early September when there are many pilgrims around and specially services along the way. The said facts conveyed the message that I did start too late. However, I am glad I did not allowed doubts and fear of the unknown to deprive me of experiencing the adventure of a lifetime. It is so liberating to push aside all preconceived ideas and let curiosity lead to the discovery of the wonders of the “Camino.” This trip I discovered a great deal about the the beauty of the land, the sea and the towns I passed or stayed. Moreover, about where I come from, the history and what kind of people were my ancestors. What a wonderful revelation. Now I know why I do certain things. The Basque culture is engraved in the core of every cell. As someone told me, the reason why I felt such familiarity of the land is because of cellular memory of times past. He said that it is like having an inherited memory chip. After this trip, I am inclined to wholeheartedly agree. A lesson I learned the rst day from my two friends, the French Basques I met in the way to Orio and Zarautz, is that one must walk at his own rhythm without trying to compete. One was conditioned to walk fast so he took the lead, the other was slow and had trouble with uphills, so he stayed behind. However, they keep each other on sight. At the summit of a hill the rst will wait for the other to catch up and have a short rest, then moved again. At the end, we all got to our destination at our own pace and had fun doing it. One thing I noticed is that when there is no human interaction, the road seems much more longer than it is and maybe even harder. Consequently, discouragement can sneak in and make you inch. I was 43 lfifif

lucky to have my lovely wife, my brother Victor, my nephew Victor William and my son Erik following my daily progress and encouraging me. I talked once in the phone with Susan and Victor, and received text messages from them, VW and Erik. I was glad T- Mobil works in Spain. One more item. Having phone battery charging capabilities is a must. I had one unit that worked well until the last day. I should had taken a solar charger in addition. I would had eliminated some stress as I arrived in Bilbao with a dead phone. I was glad I decided to take part of a day to travel by bus. I was amazed at the quality of the bus service and even more at how low is the fare. The only problem was that the bus runs only every two hours... really, not a big deal. In sum, being impetuous is permissible when one is willing to face life as it comes and the unknown courageously and without complains... I am glad I did a portion of the Northern Way of the Camino de Santiago. Even so it was so late in the year, with very little planning and with no one around. I thank the Lord for the marvelous experience and amazing protection, and a most interesting life. *********** 44

Inspirational quotes Every morning my lovely Wife sent me a quote that turns out to be just what I needed to be encouraged and for that gift I was and I am most grateful. I agree with the message in every one of the said quotes. 1. ”In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.\" (Unknown) 2. \"Carry as little as possible, but choose that little with care.” (Earl Shaffer) 3. “Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” (John Muir) 4. “It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves.\" (Sir Edmund Hillary) 5. “You need special shoes for hiking—and a bit of a special soul as well.” (Terri Guillemets) 6. “Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion” (Anatoli Boukreev) 7. Between every two pines there is a doorway to a new world (John Muir) 8. \"Returning home is the most dif cult part of long-distance hiking; You have grown outside the puzzle and your piece no longer ts.\" (Cindy Ross) 45 fifi

Postscript to the Basque background page This trip de nitely was not only a great adventure but a rebirth to things I learned in my youth about the Basque through conversation with teachers, reading of books in my father’s library, genealogical research, legends I heard here and there through the years in my many trips to Spain. During this trip, evenings were spent reading about the Basque in the new Europe, and during the day time, walking and carefully observing the land, each town I passed and stopped, and the people and their customs. One can learn much in a country restaurant while partaken of a good meal or seating at a busy pastry shop drinking thick chocolate in a tiny cup. As I did not act as a tourist or foreign Pilgrim I blended easily and no one noticed me, thus, I was free to observe the people in their natural element as they fellowshipped and exchanged news, events and ideas. I am happy to say that I did not nd anyone tting the novelistic stereotype of Basques with oversized berets, and colorful attires while dancing and kicking over their heads. I found only good solid people that believe in strong family traditions and wanting to live like Basques or like they say in Euskera, Euskaldun bizi nahia. Happy to speak their own language with its TX, KS and XS. (The dancing in colorful costumes we will enjoy watching in Idaho and Nevada during the summer). “In the modern changing Europe where everyone is giving up their identities and borders, unifying citizenship, economies and currency, I have to said that the Basque will remain Basque long after everyone else is absorbed. Not being isolationists, while being economically linked and politically loyal to a larger state, the Basque will maintain their own culture and language. Just the way it happened in Roman times, during Ferdinand’s reuni cation and in modern Spain and France. There will be no need for a physical border, their unique culture and language have been and will always be the unbreakable border.” (Quote from the book “Basque History of the World”) ************ 46 fifififi

Basque Garbanzo and Sauce Soup recipe • 3 qts. beef broth • 1 bay leaf • 1/2 lb. linquisa sausage, cut into 1/2-inch slices • 2 (16 oz.) cans garbanzos (undrained) (or 1/2 lb. dried garbanzos, soaked & cooked, plus 1/2 c. liquid) • 1/2 sm. head cabbage or cauli ower • 2 stalks celery, thinly sliced • 2 carrots, thinly sliced • 1/4 tsp. hot pepper sauce • Salt (if needed) Brown sausage lightly in medium skillet. Using slotted spoon, transfer to broth. Stir in beans and liquid, cabbage / cauli ower, celery and carrots. Simmer, covered, until carrots are tender (20 minutes). Stir in hot pepper, sauce, salt and pepper. 47 flfl

Another nice dish I enjoyed was avocado lled with mixed veggies, surrounded with rice, thin sliced cucumbers, cooked veggies and garbanzo burgers. Garbanzo burgers Ingredients • 1 19-ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained • 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (or parsley) • 1½ teaspoons ground cumin • 1½ teaspoons ground coriander • 1 teaspoon salt • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper • 1 carrot, roughly chopped • 8 ounces sliced mushrooms • 2 tablespoons all-purpose our • 1 egg, beaten • 1/4 cup breadcrumbs • 2 tablespoons olive oil In a food processor or blender, add the chickpeas, cilantro, cumin, coriander, salt and pepper. Pulse until the mixture has a choppy, paste- like consistency... Add nely minced mushroom to the chickpea mixture. Add the our, egg and bread crumps, then stir until combined. Form into four burger patties... cook in oil until golden. Buen Camino Peregrino! 48 flfiflfi