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Mod Traveling Through Washington The Emerald State boasts many mid-century gems if you know where to look. Written and photographed by Ken MacIntyre, Modtraveler.net When people are asked what their favorite mid-century spots are in Washington State they might list the Space Needle, the Pacific Science Center or even Dick’s hamburger drive-in. Not surprisingly, all three of these modernist treasures are in Seattle. However, a retro road trip east of the Emerald City reveals a plethora of mid-century gems. From North Bend to Spokane and everywhere in between, here’s a sampling of my favorite Washington State retro sites east of the Cascades.

SCOTT’S DAIRY FREEZE IN NORTH BEND, DOING BUSINESS SINCE 1951. NORTH BEND This Snoqualmie Valley town boasts some key locations from the cult TV show “Twin Peaks,” including Twede’s Café, which played the Double R Diner. The 1940s-era coffee shop was originally called Thompson’s Diner, then in the 1950s its moniker changed to the Mar-T Café and a neon sign was added. Kyle Twede has been its owner for the past two decades or so. Other standouts in North Bend include Scott’s Dairy Freeze, a classic mid-century drive-in from 1951; the streamlined North Bend Movie Theatre, built in the Art Moderne style from 1941; and the Mt. Si Motel, a low-slung 1950s motor court also used in “Twin Peaks.” TWEDE’S CAFE IN NORTH BEND STARTED AS THOMPSON’S CAFE IN 1941. PHOTO BY RACHEL BENNETT. SUMMER 2023 67

VINTAGE SIGN AT CHUCK’S THRIFTY GAS IN WENATCHEE. WENATCHEE Located near the eastern foothills of the Cascade Mountains, Wenatchee is worth a stop for its mid-1960s New Formalist- style buildings, which include a former United States Post Office (now City Hall) and a Bank of America building that has been repurposed as a boutique home-goods store. Its wavy-looking Pioneer Middle School building, designed by Seattle architects Naramore, Bain, Brady & Johanson and built in 1957, is also a standout. Chuck’s Thrifty Gas, a vintage service station displaying roadside ephemera such as old fuel pumps and signs, is a real curiosity and a perfect pit stop for retro roadtrippers. But don’t expect any service—or gas—as this time capsule is strictly for gazing at. Speaking of signs, Wenatchee also boasts one of the few remaining original Neo-Lectra signs, which is topped with a giant atomic-age neon Sputnik-like star, from 1961 at the Sav-Mart Plaza. The nearby Bavarian village of Leavenworth is also worth a quick side trip. Reinvented in the 1960s from a tired logging town into a kitschy mid-century Alpine wonderland, Leavenworth is a short 30-minute drive from Wenatchee. 68 SUMMER 2023

CENTRAL WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY’S BOUILLON HALL, 1961. ELLENSBURG An early center of commerce in Washington State, Ellensburg is home to Central Washington University, where you’ll find an array of architecture, including Bouillon Hall, a former library built of reinforced concrete and a unique brick honeycomb veneer. Designed by acclaimed Seattle architect Fred Bassetti, it received the Washington State American Institute of Architects Honor Award in 1961. When it comes to roadside architecture, Crossett’s vintage Mobilgas is hard to beat for its old-timey vibe. Built in 1936 and named for Bruce Crossett, who restored the former service station on old Hwy 10, it now houses the Red Horse Diner, a tasty 1950s-style restaurant that boasts an extensive collection of vintage metal signs as well as unforgettable burgers and fries. Also serving the community for decades is a pair of vintage, low- slung burger drive-ins that will make you feel like you time-traveled back to the days of “American Graffiti;” the Campus U-Tote-Em, circa 1951; and Rossow’s U-Tote-Em from 1966. CROSSETT’S MOBILGAS, BUILT IN 1936 AS A GILMORE SERVICE STATION, IN ELLENSBURG. PHOTO BY NICOLE CROSSETT. SUMMER 2023 69

SPOKANE 12 The second-largest city in 34 Washington State is also known for many notable pre- and post-war 1. AN EXAMPLE OF PROGRAMMATIC ARCHITECTURE, THE GARLAND MILK BOTTLE IN SPOKANE, 1934. Modernist structures designed by 2. PARKADE PLAZA IN DOWNTOWN SPOKANE, BUILT IN THE NEW FORMALIST STYLE, 1967. nationally recognized architects. 3. THE FORMER WASHINGTON WATER POWER CENTRAL SERVICE FACILITY, BUILT IN 1959, IS NOW THE HEADQUARTERS FOR AVISTA. In the 1930s, Spokane generated 4. SPOKANE’S ICONIC DICK’S HAMBURGERS, SERVING CUSTOMERS IN RETRO STYLE SINCE THE MID-1960S. several eye-catching Art Deco and 5. KXLY BROADCAST CENTER IN SPOKANE, BUILT IN 1964. Streamline Moderne buildings that are still around, including the Felts Field 5 Airport Terminal, circa 1932, and the Fox Theatre from 1931, designed by (now the headquarters for Avista), a five-story curtain-wall building designed by Robert Reamer, much of whose work architects Brooks & Walker and the recipient of the American Institute of Architects is listed on the National Register of (AIA) First Honor Award in 1959; the atomic-age KXLY Broadcast Center, a futuristic Historic Places. looking commercial structure designed by architects James & Hicks in 1964; Dick’s Hamburgers (not to be confused with Seattle's Dick’s Drive-In), a space-age, Unique Programmatic architecture Googie-style drive-in designed by local Spokane architect Douglas Durkoop in the also left its mark on Spokane with the Garland and Benewah Milk Bottles from 1934 and 1935, designed by famed Spokane architects Whitehouse and Price. The Milk Bottles served as dairy retailers until the 1970s and have since been repurposed as a 1950s-style diner (Mary Lou’s Milk Bottle) and a therapy clinic. Of Spokane’s many post-war modern architects, three studied under Bauhaus founder Walter Gropius at Harvard University: Bill Trogdon, Bruce Walker and Royal McClure. Collectively, their designs helped shape mid-century Spokane. In fact, several of the city’s renowned Modernists came together with Walker and McClure to design the sublime U.S. Courthouse downtown. The New Formalist style building was erected in 1967 and was credited to Culler, Gale, Martell & Erickson; McClure & Adkinson; and Walker & McGough. Also located in downtown Spokane is the Parkade Plaza Parking Garage, a 10-story New Formalist shrine to the American automobile. Designed by Warren C. Heylman and built in 1967, this impressive structure was credited with helping rejuvenate the city’s downtown core by creating parking for nearly 1,000 more automobiles. Other notable mid-century locations in Spokane include the Washington Water Power Central Service Facility 70 SUMMER 2023

SPOKANE mid-1960s; and the St. Charles Borromeo Catholic Church, designed in 1961 by architects Funk, Murray and Johnson, SPOKANE’S ST. CHARLES BORROMEO CATHOLIC CHURCH, BUILT IN 1961. which features a dramatic hyperbolic paraboloid roof arching over a tall brick-clad cylindrical form flanking its entryway. The church was recognized by the AIA with an award for outstanding contemporary architecture. In 1974, the city hosted the World’s Fair and although its legacy does not include another iconic Space Needle like that of Seattle’s 1962 World’s Fair, Spokane’s innovative and angular-looking Washington State Pavilion and Opera House (now the INB Performing Arts Center), designed by the firm Walker, McGough, Foltz and Lyerla Architects, turned heads anyway. It was the centerpiece of Expo ’74 and hosted many renowned artists like Jack Benny and Ella Fitzgerald. It has since established itself (along with other structures too numerous to list) as part of Spokane’s lasting mid-century architectural heritage. These recommendations are by no means the only mid- century treasures you’ll find in Washington State. If you keep your eyes peeled, there’s lots more to discover. For an extensive list of mid-century Spokane architecture, visit MidcenturySpokane.org. YAKIMA Known as “The Palm Springs of Washington” (really!), Yakima has a few architecturally significant buildings, including the city’s first skyscraper, the A.E. Larson Building, a sleek 11-story Art Deco structure designed by John W. Maloney and the National Bank of Washington (now Wells Fargo) built in 1968 and designed in the New Formalist style by Yakima local James D. Cowan. For mid-century sign hunters, Yakima may have more vintage neon per capita than any other city in the region, including the recently restored 1960s neon duck-hunter sign at the downtown Sports Center Bar & Restaurant. In fact, one of the collections at Yakima’s impressive Valley Museum features many of the city’s former vintage neon signs. Not to be overlooked, Yakima’s also got a couple of satisfying mid-century drive-ins still doing brisk business: the Lariat Bar-B-Q has been serving ’em up since 1966 and the 1950s-style Pepp’rmint Stick Drive-In (technically in Union Gap) has been family- owned and operated since the late 1940s. 72 SUMMER 2023

ZILLAH Listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places, the Teapot Dome Service Station is a must-see on your journey between Yakima and Spokane. An example of Programmatic Architecture, the station was built by Jack Ainsworth in 1922 on what would become U.S. Route 12 when the U.S. national highways system was beginning to expand. It continued to operate as a full- service gas station in a couple of different locations into the early 2000s before it was closed and purchased by the city, and then relocated again in 2012. It currently serves as Zillah’s visitors center. CLE ELLUM This satellite bedroom community in the north Cascades is home to the oldest telephone museum west of the Mississippi, with displays featuring telephone technology from the late 1800s through the early 1970s. Cle Ellum, which means “swift water” in the language of the Kittitas Indians, is also fortunate to have a couple of original 1950s drive-ins that are still frequented by loyal customers from miles away. The Red Arrow drive-in has been serving up tasty burgers and shakes since 1953 as has the legendary Twin Pines drive-in. TWIN PINES BURGERS IN CLE ELLUM, SINCE 1958. KEN MACINTYRE IS THE CREATOR OF THE WEBSITE MODTRAVELER.NET: AN ENTHUSIAST’S GUIDE TO MODERNISM AND THE AUTHOR OF COCO CABANA: DESIGNED FOR GRACIOUS LIVING. FOLLOW KEN ON INSTAGRAM @MODTRAVELER.