VDS

Magazine about the roads less travelled November 2020 ABLCWUHAZYIZSNAILANWTGAO,YWS N Big Trails And Thrills: Little India! The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine

OPhlacesThe you will go

1 Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown 2 Big Trails And Thrills: Little India! 3 The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine 4 The Modern Past

Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown The Historic District of Chinatown comprises four distinct sub-districts: Telok Ayer, Kreta Ayer, Bukit Pasoh and Tanjong Pagar. Together with the other precincts south of the Singapore River, they made up what was known colloquially as the Greater Town (or Da Po) of Singapore. Because of its architectural, historical and social importance, the area was given conservation status on 7 July 1989. Take a walk and learn why this area is cherished by so many Singaporeans! Source: URA Chinatown Trail Brochure 2017 Photos: Ng Wei BIn

The origin of Chinatown is linked to Sir Stamford Raffles. In 1822, he formed a Town Planning Committee to plan Singapore Town according to ethnic groups. The area south of the Singapore River was allocated by sectors to Chinese and Indian immigrants of the same provincial origin and language groups. The Chinese immigrants came mostly from the south-eastern coastal provinces of China. Hokkiens formed the majority, followed by the Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese, Hakkas and Foochows. The South Indians also found their niche in this area, though subsequently the centre of Indian commercial and cultural life moved to Serangoon Road. Each group has left its mark on street names and places of worship.

K R E TA AY E R T he Malay name Kreta Ayer (or Niu Che Shui) comes from the ox-drawn water carts that used to deliver water to the area. In the 19th century, this predominantly Cantonese area was known for round-the-clock entertainment with a concentration of teahouses, opera theatres and brothels. Today it is best known for its Chinese New Year and Mid-Autumn celebrations, street market and bustling atmosphere. 6 Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown

1. Former Great Southern Hotel 70 Eu Tong Sen Street This former hotel was designed by architectural firm Swan & Maclaren and was once regarded as the Raffles Hotel of Chinatown. Popular with high society including celebrities from Hong Kong and China, it was once the tallest building in the area and was the first Chinese hotel in Singapore to boast a lift service. 2. Former Majestic Theater 80 Eu Tong Sen Street This was originally a Cantonese opera house built by philanthropist Eu Tong Sen in 1927 for his wife after she was reportedly refused admittance to an opera performance elsewhere. A highlight of this Art Deco building is its decorated façade of hand-painted tiles depicting opera characters and flying dragons. 3. Former S.I.T. Government Quarters 42 to 50 Mosque Street, 175 to 189 New Bridge Road and 38 to 64 Upper Cross Street The predecessor to the Housing and Development Board was the Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT), set up in 1927 by the colonial government to solve Singapore’s chronic housing problems. These four-storey reinforced concrete buildings were built in the 1930s to house Customs workers. Take a close look at the timber parapet behind each window; on each are two heart-shaped cut outs. Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown 7

4. Jamae (Chulia) Mosque 218 South Bridge Road One of the oldest mosques in Singapore, Jamae Mosque was completed in 1835 by the Chulias who hailed from southern India’s Coromandel Coast. It boasts an eclectic mix of Chinese, Anglo-Indian and Malay architecture, of which the most significant feature is its South Indian style front entrance comprising of two minarets flanking a miniature palace façade. It was gazetted in 1974 as a National Monument. 8 Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown

5. Sri Mariamman Temple 242 South Bridge Road Established in 1827, this is Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple. It was founded by Narayana Pillay, the Tamil pioneer who accompanied Raffles to Singapore. The temple is dedicated to the goddess Mariamman and the original statue of the deity installed by Pillay still stands in its principal shrine. This temple gave name to Temple Street and Pagoda Street, and was gazetted as a National Monument in 1973. 6. Former Coolie Quarters 37 Pagoda Street Most coolies came from southern China in search of better job prospects but upon arrival were sold off as indentured labourers. Those who were not immediately auctioned off were kept in cramped and sordid quarters. This shophouse is believed to be the former premises of Kwong Hup Yuen, one of the most infamous coolie firms. 7. Former Lai Chun Yuen 25 Trengganu Street Built in 1887, this three-storey former theatre building with unique cantilevering wooden balconies was the centre of entertainment in Kreta Ayer until it was badly damaged during World War II. Its popularity was such that surrounding streets were colloquially named after the theatre itself; Smith Street was Theater Street, Temple Street was Theater Rear Street, and Trengganu Street was Theater Side Street. Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown 9

TELOK AY E R Telok Ayer, Malay for Water Bay, is the oldest sub-district. It started to develop in the 1820s and remained as the key Chinese commercial district until the late 19th century. The population in this area was predominantly Hokkien. The area is often associated with the laid-back atmosphere of Ann Siang Hill, and the religious buildings along Telok Ayer Street. 10 Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown

8. EU YAN SANG 267 to 271 South Bridge Road Built in 1910, this is the first Eu Yan Sang outlet in Singapore set up by Eu Tong Sen. Besides dealing in the retail of traditional Chinese medicine, it used to offer money remittance services to China. The building was designed by Alfred Bidwell from the firm Swan & Maclaren. He was also responsible for the design of the Raffles Hotel and Victoria Memorial Hall. 9. Clan and Trade Associations Ann Siang Road and Club Street Clan and trade associations were important institutions for mutual assistance in 19th and early 20th century Singapore as they helped new immigrants from China settle down and looked after their welfare. Along Ann Siang Road and Club Street are numerous clan and trade associations where stepping into one, time seems to stand still. Some still retain their meeting halls filled with portraits of members from the past and centuryold furniture. Some of these associations can be found at 17 (Ching Yoon Wooi Kwoon) and 25 Ann Siang Road (Kwong Wai Siew Li Si She Shut), and 84 Club Street (Nam Sun Wui Kun). 10. Siang Cho Keong 66 Amoy Street This temple was completed in 1869 and built in the Hokkien style, where the ends of the curved roof ridge sweeps outwards like swallow tails and the clay roof tiles are not glazed. Its foundation plaque records that it was located on this site because of its good feng shui (geomancy) properties as it used to front the sea and behind it stands Ann Siang Hill. Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown 11

12 Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown

11. Nagore Dargah Indian 13. Al-Abrar Mosque Muslim Heritage Centre 192 Telok Ayer Street 140 Telok Ayer Street Also known as Kuchu Palli, Tamil for Mosque Hut, it was originally a thatched hut believed Originally known as Shahul Hamid Durgha and to have been erected not long after 1827. The dedicated to the memory of a holy man, Shahul present building was built between 1850 and Hamid of Nagore, the former shrine was built 1855 and declared a National Monument in by Chulias from southern India between 1828 1974. Unlike wwwthe Jamae Mosque along and 1830. On the upper part of the façade are South Bridge Road, this mosque is able to niches, where oil lamps can be placed within conform to the street grid whilefacing Mecca. them to illuminate the building on festive days. It was gazetted as a National Monument in 14. Telok Ayer Chinese 1974. Methodist Church 12. Thian Hock Keng 235 Telok Ayer Street Designed by Swan & Maclaren and built by 158 Telok Ayer Street a French firm, Bross & Mogin in 1924, this was the first Chinese Methodist Church in This is one of Singapore’s oldest and most Singapore. It features upturned roof eaves; a important temple for immigrants from southern reference to traditional Chinese architecture China’s Fujian province. Completed in 1842 and the community that it serves. In 1989, the and standing on what used to be the shoreline, church was gazetted as a National Monument. it is dedicated to the worship of Ma Zu Po, the Goddess of the Sea. While most of the building materials came from China, the temple incorporates cast-iron railings from Scotland and tiles from England and Holland. In 1973, it was gazetted as a National Monument. Its restoration in 2001 gained an honorable mention from UNESCO. Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown 13

14 Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown

BUKIT Bukit Pasoh was developed at the turn of the 20th century as PA S O H an extension of the already densely populated Telok Ayer and Kreta Ayer areas. Its name means Pot Hill in Malay, referring to its origins as a place where earthen pots were made. Its charm lies in its gently sloping and curving streets fronted by shophouses that house a mixture of institutional and commercial activities. 15. Poon Yue 17. Kong Chow Wui 19. Ee Hoe Hean Association Koon Club 281 New Bridge Road 321 New Bridge Road 43 Bukit Pasoh Road The association was founded This Cantonese clan The club was founded in in 1879 at Upper Cross Street association was established 1895 by a group of Hokkien with financial assistance from in 1839 at Upper Chin Chew community leaders for the Hoo Ah Kay, a well known Street and moved in 1924 wealthy Chinese elite. More community leader from to the present building, than a social and business Whampoa district in Guangdong designed by Westerhout & club, its members were province. The association Oman. During the Japanese actively involved in the relocated to New Bridge Road Occupation, the custodians political development of China in 1917. The building is a hybrid volunteered the building as a in the early 20th century. It of Neo-Classical and Art Deco clinic and hence its antique supported the 1911 Xinhai styles which were popular Revolution which overthrew the with Chinese developers “It was Qing Dynasty, leading to the in the past who wanted to gazetted as establishment of the Republic project a modern image. To the a National of China. During World War II, Chinese, New Bridge Road was Monument it was the headquarters of the colloquially referred to as Da Po in 1974.” anti-Japanese China Salvation Er Ma Lu, Mandarin for Greater Movement in Southeast Asia. Town’s Second Road. The first The ground floor Pioneers’ road referred to in this instance Gallery is open for visit and was South Bridge Road. entry is free. 16. Sri Layan Sithi interiors remained intact. The 20. Chin Kang Vinayagar Temple association is well known Huay Kuan for its lion dance troupe and 73 Keong Saik Road martial arts. This is one of 29 Bukit Pasoh Road This Hindu temple was built in Chinatown’s first community This association was 1925 by Nattukkottai Chettiars, museums and entry is free. established in 1918 by a noted money lending immigrants from Jinjiang community from Tamil Nadu 18. Cundhi Gong County in southern Fujian, and dedicated to Ganesha, the China. The current building elephantheaded god. It is an 13 Keong Saik Road contrasts with its ornately important stop for the annual decorated neighbours. The Silver Chariot Procession where This was founded in 1928 for use of straight lines, concrete the deity Murugan is taken the worship of the 18-arm ledges and mild steel framed on a procession from the Sri Cundhi Bodhisattva. It is a windows is typical of the Thendayuthapani Temple in purpose-built temple built in Modern style that was popular Tank Road. The temple was the Nanyang style which is a from the 1950s to the early given the name Layan Sithi as hybrid between Chinese and 1970s. During World War II, it was originally located at the shophouse architecture. On the building was used by the old Sepoy Lines where Indian the roof ridge, cut porcelain Overseas Chinese General soldiers, known as Sepoys, pieces are used to form Mobilisation Council which used to be housed. dragons, phoenixes, birds and helped the British in supplying flowers. The timber trusses labourers and volunteers for the over the five-foot way feature defence of Singapore. traditional paintings and its exterior walls are adorned with Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown 15 hand-painted tiles.

16 Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown

TA N G J O N G PA G A R 21. Jinrikisha Station 1 Neil Road The building was built in 1903 by the Municipal Council as the administration centre for rickshaws, a form of transportation imported from Japan via Shanghai in the 1880s. It is of the Edwardian style, where the exposed brickwork is contrasted with white plaster mouldings. Look out for the crest of the Municipal Council at the front of the building, featuring a lion standing on an island with a palm tree. 22. Former Jing Hwa Cinema 1 Tanjong Pagar Road Together with the Majestic and the Oriental, Jing Hwa Cinema, built in 1958, was one of Chinatown’s three famous cinemas. It was designed by local architect Wong Foo Nam in the Modern style and was the first to have a basement carpark and extensive floor-to-ceiling windows. It is remembered fondly by many as the venue of romantic first dates and holiday treats. Always Buzzing , Always Chinatown 17

Big Trails And Thrills: Little India! The distinctive Little India precinct melds the old with the new, hosting trades from the past beside modern businesses, old conserved shophouses next to high rise buildings. In this precinct, you can find flower garland vendors next to restaurants serving both traditional and fusion meals, small traditional businesses alongside multi-storey departmental stores. And these are just some ways in which the precinct retains aspects of its history within today’s modern context. Source: NHB Little India Trail Booklet 2018 Photos: Ng Wei BIn



20 Big Trails And Thrills: Little India!

I t is interesting to note that Little TRAIL 1: SERANGOON At Race Course Lane, you will India was never designated by Sir IN THE 1900s encounter a number of Chinese Clan Stamford Raffles as an area for Associations which were established the Indian community. This is unlike 40 Minutes to provide social and economic Chinatown or Kampong Gelam, support for Chinese immigrants from which were designated for the The early 20th century was a the same clans. Turn left onto Race Chinese and the Malays respectively defining period that shaped today’s Course Road and you will come in the Raffles Town Plan of 1823. Little India as migrants from India, across the Foochow Methodist Before Little India got its current China and Britain settled in the area Church at the corner of Rotan Lane. name in the 1970s-80s, it was just and established a diversity of trades The church was established in 1897 known as Serangoon, after one of and institutions. Follow this trail and as a Christian mission for working the earliest roads in Singapore and explore the rich history of the Little class immigrants from Foochow, indicated as the “road leading across India precinct. China, such as rickshaw pullers the island” on an 1828 map. and coolies. Begin your journey at the Indian Through the Little India Heritage Trail, Heritage Centre and obtain an Continuing along Race Course discover how this once swampy, overview of the history of the Indian Road, keep a lookout on the left for rural area transformed itself into community in Singapore. Then walk a small unnamed street where you the colourful and culturally diverse down Serangoon Road and cross will encounter the origins of this precinct of today. This self-guided over to Kerbau Road, whose name road name in the form of a mural trail consists of a Trail Booklet, a Trail refers to the buffaloes that were kept entitled A Ride Through Race Course Map and onsite Trail Markers. The here in the 1900s. Road by Jaxton Su. The Former Trail Booklet provides a history of the Racecourse was at the location of area, as well as information about Walking along this road, you will the current Farrer Park Field the places of heritage, social and come across the colourful Former just opposite. cultural interest. The accompanying House of Tan Teng Niah. The only Along Hampshire Road beside Trail Map offers three thematic sub- remaining Chinese villa in Little India, the field, you will see the Former trails with translations in Mandarin, this is a legacy of the time when Kandang Kerbau Hospital (now the Malay and Tamil while the Trail small Chinese cottage industries Land Transport Authority building) Markers showcase old photographs thrived alongside the Indian- which served as general hospital in of the site along with further dominated cattle trade in this area. the 1900s. In the background, you information. We hope you enjoy can also spot the distinctive shape of your journey! Turn around and walk towards the new KK Women’s and Belilios Lane where you will spot Children’s Hospital building. the large mural Traditional Trades If you are hungry or wish to rest your of Little India by Psyfool. Continue feet, walk straight down to Tekka towards Belilios Road and turn Centre, which is the new incarnation right to the Sri Veeramakaliamman of the Tekka Market that was Temple which was built as a shrine once located across the road and by Tamil workers from the lime pits considered the “people’s market”. in this area. From here, turn left onto Here you can enjoy local hawker Serangoon Road and left again onto fare, or purchase fresh meat to cook Race Course Lane. at home. Then it’s a short walk to Little India MRT station for a ride home. Big Trails And Thrills: Little India! 21

TRAIL 2: WALK OF FAITHS 1 Hour The Little India precinct contains a “Temple of a great number and diversity of religious Thousand Lights” spaces. These institutions span across all the major ethnic and religious groups in Singapore. This trail provides insights into different religious spaces, architecture and practices found in Singapore. (Note: Most of these institutions are will see the architecturally different down the next street at open to the public but be sure to Kampong Kapor Methodist Church Chander Road. follow any instructions on appropriate which started around the same time Then venture up Rotan Lane to behaviour and clothing.) but catered to the Straits Chinese view the Foochow Methodist or Peranakans. Church which developed from Start off at the beautiful Abdul Gafoor a mission started in 1897 for Mosque at Dunlop Street which is one Walk up Veerasamy Road and working class immigrants from of Singapore’s oldest mosques and a across Serangoon Road to the Sri Foochow, China. After this, walk National Monument. You may wish to Veeramakaliamman Temple which back down to Serangoon Road enter the mosque for a visit and if so, was originally built as a shrine and head towards the Angullia do remember to dress respectfully and by Tamil workers from the lime Mosque to take a look at its take off your shoes. pits in this area. Another Hindu conserved 19th century temple and the only North Indian entrance gatehouse. From here, head down Perak Road temple in Singapore, the Shree to the Anglican Church of the True Lakshminarayan Temple is located Light which catered mainly to Chinese trishaw riders during its beginnings. At the end of Perak Road, turn left onto Upper Weld Road and then right to Kampong Kapor Road. Here you 22 Big Trails And Thrills: Little India!

Along the same road, you Next head up Beatty Road on TRAIL 3: SHOP TILL YOU will encounter yet another to Race Course Road to view DROP! National Monument, the Sri two Buddhist temples built in a Srinivasa Perumal Temple, with completely different style. The 30 Minutes (not inclusive of shopping its intricately carved gopuram Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple, time) (entrance tower) depicting a popularly known as the “Temple story from Hindu mythology. of a Thousand Lights”, houses a Little India is home to many traditional Further down the road is the Sri monumental 15-metre tall Buddha businesses that offer experiences Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple statue while the Leong San See that cannot be found elsewhere in with its stepped vimana (pyramid- Temple, meaning “Dragon Mountain Singapore. This trail offers a chance shape tower over the main shrine) Temple”, is dedicated to Guan Yin, to try authentic Indian food, purchase adorned with Hindu deities. the Goddess of Mercy. traditional clothing and hunt for bargains at various shops in this area. Start along Campbell Lane and experience the kaleidoscope of sights, sounds and smells along this street. You can visit the Little India Arcade and enjoy some Indian sweets or have a henna design drawn on your hands. Or you can head to the Jothi Store & Flower Shop where locals shop for everyday Indian goods ranging from incense sticks to copper utensils. One street down at Dunlop Street is Haniffa Textiles which is famous for its saris and Indian clothing, and further down Serangoon Road is where you will find Komala Vilas, an Indian vegetarian fast-food restaurant established in 1947. Try their refreshing lassi or have a meal here if you’re hungry! After your break, walk down the five-foot way (or covered pedestrian walkway) along Serangoon Road and enjoy a variety of traditional and modern shops selling everything from clothes to knick-knacks. Feel free to stop and pick up a bargain or just window-shop along this stretch. Ahead you will see the expansive Mustafa Centre, Singapore’s first 24- hour department store which offers everything from diamonds, watches, electronics, clothing, confectionery and fresh foods. Shop to your heart’s content here, and when you start to feel tired, head across the road to Ananda Bhavan, Singapore’s oldest Indian vegetarian restaurant, for a snack or meal. Big Trails And Thrills: Little India! 23

The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine The story of Kampong Glam began in 1819 when Sir Stamford Raffles (1781–1826) established a treaty between the British East India Company, Temenggong Abdul Rahman (d. 1825) and Sultan Hussein (1776–1835) to set up a trading post in Singapore. Source: NHB Kampong Glam Trail 3 Brochure Photos: Ng Wei BIn

D id you know that the stretch of Bussorah Street near Masjid Sultan was once known as Kampong Kaji (Pilgrim Village) and the stretch nearer Beach Road was Kampong Tembaga (Copper Village)? Or that Arab Street was called Jawa Koi (Java Street) by the Chinese and Pookadai sadakku (flower street) by the Tamils? Sultan Gate was lined with blacksmiths and Baghdad Street with diamond craftsmen and traders. Where a car park now stands along Kandahar Street, there was the Pondok Java which housed Javanese migrants and was famed for the Javanese theatre and arts performances it used to host. These are just some of the stories behind Kampong Glam’s streets and lanes. Steeped in history, culture and memories, Kampong Glam is one of Singapore’s most colourful districts. It was where the Malay royalty once resided, and where one of the most significant and important mosques in the country, Masjid Sultan, is located. It was where many diverse communities, such as the Javanese, Sumatrans, Baweanese, Banjarese, Arabs, Chinese and Indians once called home. Though Kampong Glam is no longer a residential area today, these communities have left their mark in different ways, from the buildings in the area and long-time businesses to vernacular place names. The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine 25

MALAYK HERITAGE CENTRE 85 Sultan Gate The building housing traditional Malay Tungku Alam (d. 1891), organised leisure activities the centre was once motifs with the Palladian was not recognised by the for the community in the residence of Malay style – a style derived from British as Sultan. However, Kampong Glam. royalty in Singapore the architecture of Italian the Malay community In 1999, the government and also referred to as architect Andrea Palladio organised a ceremony in announced plans to “Istana Kampong Gelam” (1508-1580) which was 1879 proclaiming him as develop a Malay Heritage (Kampong Gelam Palace). popular in England in the “Sultan Ala’u’din Alam Centre, which would It was preceded by at least 18th and 19th centuries. Shah al Mulak (Ruler of) involve conserving and two istana buildings which For years, the British Johore and Muar”. redeveloping Istana were part of a larger walled refused to acknowledge In 1897, the court decided Kampong Glam and the compound that has been Tunku Ali as sultan. In in a dispute between adjacent Gedung Kuning. referred to as the kota raja 1855, the Governor of members of the royal This required the residents (royal citadel). the Straits Settlements family that the Kampong to relocate and a new The first istana in the William Butterworth (1801– Glam property belonged to scheme of payment to compound, a large timber 1856) negotiated a treaty the Crown. An ordinance the beneficiaries was palace with attap roofs, between Tunku Ali and was then enacted by introduced. Restoration was completed in 1819. Ibrahim (d. 1865), son the British government works were undertaken Sultan Hussein stayed of the late Temenggong. in 1904 to provide an and the Malay Heritage there for some years Ali acquired the title of incomefor Sultan Hussein’s Centre opened in June before moving to Melaka, Sultan and received a descendants. The building 2005. Further renovations where he passed away fixed allowance from continued to serve as a were carried out between in 1835. His son, Tunku the government, while residence for the family. 2011 and 2012 and the Ali (1825–1877) returned acknowledging Ibrahim as For a period of time during redeveloped centre was to Singapore in 1840 and the ruler of Johor with the the 20th century, it even launched in September commissioned the current exception of Muar. When housed a club, Kota Raja 2012 by the Prime Minister building, which combines Sultan Ali passed away Club, which regularly of Singapore, Mr Lee in 1877, his eldest son, Hsien Loong. 26 The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine

ARAB STREET Arab Street is one of the few streets in Kampong Glam that has retained its original name from the early 1800s. It was probably named as such as the area was designated for the Arab community in the 1822 town plan of Singapore. The community here, however, has always been diverse. A busy commercial area, Arab Street has been attracting traders and entrepreneurs from places such as present-day Indonesia, India, China and the Middle East since its early days. They started businesses ranging from eating houses, rattan shops and goldsmiths to textile shops, money changers, bookshops and printing presses. Today, a number of shops on this street, such as H. Hashim bin H. Abdullah, a bookstore opened in the early 1900s, are still run by the descendants of pioneers who came here decades ago. To locals, this road was more commonly referred to as Kampong Java by the Malays or Jawa koi (Java Street) by the Chinese. For a long time, Arab Street was largely populated by the Javanese. They were engaged in various occupations such as running eating houses and food stalls, and selling goods such as fruit and Javanese leaf cigarettes. Javanese women also set up stalls to sell flowers along the five foot way, giving rise to the Tamil nickname, pookadei sadakku (flower street). Over time, however, the Javanese presence gradually diminished in this area due to factors such as the redevelopment of Kampong Glam, leading to resettlement of the original residents. The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine 27

The Modern Past Singapore is a melting pot of cultures. Despite her cosmopolitan status, many heritage trails reveal that traditional crafts and products of these cultures are aplenty in her midst. Visual influences from the diverse heritage co-exist bountifully and they give the place an unique blend which is hard to be expressed in words. See them for yourself! 10 The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine

We shape our buildings; thereafter, they shape us. The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine 29

Life really is a series of contrasts. A ray of hope. A beam of light. 30 The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine

Light dispels darkness. Happiness depends upon ourselves. Smile, it’s free therapy. The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine 31

Magazine about the roads less travelled November 2020