Elle USA 11.2021

New Arrivals COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER. Live out your Slim Aarons ski fantasies this season with Celine’s retro-glam shearling boot. Boot, Celine by Hedi Slimane, $1,550, celine.com. 38

COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER. The WATCH Gucci’s skateboarding-inspired Grip timepiece gets a luxe upgrade with a halo of baguette-cut diamonds, a tiger’s-eye dial, and an alligator strap. Grip watch, Gucci, gucci.com. 39



Front Row Some Like WHEN YOU SHOW UP AFTER It Haute a 53-year absence, you had better make quite the entrance. Demna A supercharged Gvasalia did just that for his first couture season, Balenciaga couture show, which packed with exciting was also the house’s first cou- newentrants,was just ture outing in over half a centu- the thing to invigorate ry. He melded tradition—models the age-old medium. toting numbers; modernist hats; By Véronique Hyland and looks, like the one at left, that paid unabashed homage to the ar- chives—with his tweaked take on casualwear. Baggy jeans on a cou- ture runway? Why the hell not? He wasn’t the only one taking a disruptive, but still reverent, ap- proach to the practice. In one of the most stunning seasons in recent memory, young talents enlivened established houses, while newer names joined the party, bringing their own distinct flavor of fun to the proceedings. MODEL: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; ARCHIVAL LOOK: THOMAS KUBLIN. FROM LEFT: A FALL 2021 COUTURE LOOK FROM BALENCIAGA; AN ARCHIVAL LOOK FROM THE HOUSE FROM SUMMER 1962.

Front RowC O U T U R E TOMO KOIZUMI PYER MOSS SCHIAPARELLI Who says couture needs Kerby Jean-Raymond If you’re ever lucky to take place in Paris? held his debut couture enough to get a Zoom Kyoto’s Nijo Castle collection, inspired tour of Schiaparelli’s made for an equally by the ingenuity of Paris atelier from Daniel grand setting as Tomo Black inventors, at Roseberry, you’ll realize Koizumi, the Japanese Madam C. J. Walker’s that the Texan phenom designer beloved by historic home. The is an encyclopedia Marc Jacobs, unleashed looks, which cleverly regarding all things his maximalist, supersize, channeled everything Elsa. He plays with the rainbow-colored vision from a typewriter to anatomical, surrealist of couture for the a traffic light, made history of the house, first time. He turned history themselves: while bringing things to the city’s artisans Jean-Raymond became up to speed with for help constructing the first-ever African additions like denim, the elaborate American to show on wacky cone bras, and handmade looks. the couture calendar. major sleeves. PYER MOSS: DAVID PRUTTING; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS. MISS SOHEE CHARLES DE ALAÏA VILMORIN Drawing on memories of The fashion world plunged seaside days with her late At only 24, de Vilmorin into mourning after grandmother in South is that rare thing: a Azzedine Alaïa passed Korea, newbie Sohee Gen Z couturier. His away in 2017. But his Park applied her Central early work garnered legacy seems intact. Pieter Saint Martins training to acolytes from Mulier, his successor, her uncommonly beautiful Alessandro Michele kicked off Couture Week— lineup. She honored to Jean Paul Gaultier, and his new post—with nature not only in her and now he balances slinky, second-skin looks inspiration but in her running his couture shown on the Rue de execution, via recycled house with his role Moussy, where the master crystals and deadstock at Rochas, where he worked. Zendaya and Jodie fabric from LVMH’s was recently named Comer have since worn Nona Source outlet. creative director. them on the red carpet. 42

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Front Row Thinking Outside the Box To celebrate 200yearsofLouisVuitton, the house tapped an equal number of talents to reinterpretitsiconicsteamertrunk. GUGGING PROBA: COURTESY OF THE SUBJECT; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS. MUSEUM STUDIO A GUGGING ARTIST- PROBA IN-RESIDENCE SINCE 1981, MULTIDISCIPLINARY JOHANN GARBER ARTIST ALEX HAS USED CHAIRS, PROBA (LEFT) ANTLERS, AND STAYED TRUE EVEN REVOLVERS TO HER DESIGN AS CANVASES FOR FIRM STUDIO HIS PAINTINGS. PROBA’S BOLD, COLORFUL have devised a trunk that is entirely free of seri- AESTHETIC WITH ous disadvantages,” proclaimed Louis Vuitton HER TRUNK (BELOW). “I in 1867. That turned out to be quite the under- statement. The hard-sided, monogrammed luggage upon which Vuitton’s namesake malle- tier would build its reputation was to the era of steamship and rail travel what a USB-equipped wheeled suitcase might be to modern times. The first flat-sided trunk—previous iterations featured curves to allow for water runoff—was stackable, difficult to counterfeit (thanks to an exterior clad in that now-iconic printed canvas), and nothing short of revolutionary. Since then, the house has crafted carryalls for everyone from royalty, Hollywood and real, to literary legends (Ernest Hemingway’s trunk had compart- ments for his typewriter and a library of his works). To mark its founder’s 200th birthday, Vuitton enlisted 200 visionaries to work their magic on these six-sided canvases, which will be digitally displayed in the windows of every Vuitton boutique around the globe. As a capstone to the project, Vuitton willdonate€10,000 onbehalf of eachof the 200 collaboratorsto 44



Front Row GOLBIN (LEFT) UTILIZED HER one of 15 nonprofits of their choosing. Then, in December, the BACKGROUND trunks will be auctioned at Sotheby’s, with the proceeds going AS A FASHION to an organization supporting creativity and the arts. HISTORIAN, UNEARTHING A “Imagine having a conversation with not just one visionary, LITTLE-KNOWN but 200,” says Faye Mcleod, Louis Vuitton’s visual image direc- QUOTE FROM tor. “There’s an exceptional energy that emanates from each of VUITTON THAT them—this constant flow of creativity.” Indeed, the resulting UNDERSCORES trunks are as varied as their creators—who include an aviation JUST HOW engineer, a Paralympic swimmer, and an astrologer. Each was REVOLUTIONARY given carte blanche to alter a 50 x 50 x 100 cm wooden box HIS DESIGN (roughly the dimensions of Vuitton’s original trunk). For co- REALLY WAS. median Alison Wheeler, it was her first foray into the design world—though she was well aware of the brand, having grown PAMELA up in a suburb outside Paris. “I have always associated Paris with GOLBIN the fabulous windows of the Louis Vuitton shop on the Champs- Élysées,” Wheeler says. Her creation, plastered with images that call to mind vintage postcards and travel decals, is a fitting nod to the maison’s travel-centric roots. “I wanted to convey the recollection of summer love,” she adds. “The fleeting kiss on the beach, your pocket full of seashells, the smell of monoï oil.” Alex Proba also took a colorful approach, though any sim- ilarities end there. “I decided not to use the trunk at all,” says ALISON WHEELER THE FRENCH COMEDIAN WHEELER (LEFT) WAS INSPIRED BY SUMMER LOVE (BELOW), “THE KIND THAT DOESN’T LAST LONGER THAN A SUNTAN BUT THAT YOU NEVER REALLY FORGET.” the artist, who built her work from scratch. Proba, well known GOLBIN: ERIC OGDEN; WHEELER: COURTESY OF THE SUBJECT; for her use of color, pattern, and unexpected shapes, instead cre- REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS. ated forms that fit together like a puzzle. “I thought about my in- dividual work [and] the craftsmanship of Vuitton’s artisans, and I wanted to link the two in some way,” she says. “All of these pieces are different but come together in the end.” Artist Johann Garber, who has been living since 1981 at Galerie Gugging’s House of Artists outside Vienna, a mecca for art brut, was thrilled to discov- er a new avenue for his work, which includes ink drawings and paintings. “I’m eager to see the trunks displayed virtually,” he says. During her tenure as chief curator of fashion and textile at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, not to mention her long career as a fashion historian, Pamela Golbin has been fortunate enough to dive into the archives of the world’s most storied houses—so it seems fitting that she would find inspiration in the aforemen- tioned, little-known quote from Monsieur Vuitton, which dec- orates the exterior of her trunk in Stephen Sprouse’s preferred shade of pink atop Vuitton’s checkerboard Damier canvas. Inside, Monsieur and Madame Vuitton take a birthday stroll through his Asnières workshop, the former clad in the latest designs from Vuitton’s artistic director of menswear, Virgil Abloh, and the latter in womenswear from Nicolas Ghesquière. “It’s always been im- portant for me to bring the past into contemporary life so that you can really understand the context,” Golbin says. It’s safe to say the project has done just that. Joyeux anniversaire!—NAOMIROUGEAU



Front Row Glamour, IRL Red-carpet fashion has always been known for its high-stakes, if slightly safe, approach. Now, after the world-altering past 20 months, it feels freer—and more fearless—than ever. By Nick Remsen ABOVE: JODIE TURNER-SMITH T U R N ER- S MI T H: HU N G VAN N G O ; HAT HAWAY: C O U RT ESY OF T HE SU BJ ECT. PROMOTING ANNE BOLEYN IN CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS; RIGHT: ANNE HATHAWAY IN PRADA. t was the fashion moment seen—and memed— around the world. Framed by Cannes’s sunlit palms I and sailboat masts, there they stood: Timothée Chalamet, Wes Anderson, Tilda Swinton, and Bill Murray, the art-house power squad from the re- cently released film The French Dispatch. Chalamet looked cool, as is his wont, in a graphic, anti-glam (and yet somehow very glam) T-shirt from Elara. Ever-eccentric Anderson wore preppy seersucker; Swinton, who can do no sartorial wrong, donned a snow- cone-blue suit from Haider Ackermann. And Murray, ostensibly a boomer on vacation, brilliantly gave very little of a damn. Twitter went nuts, labeling the quartet, in order, “tiktok, twitter, instagram, fb.” (Or, to this writer’s satisfaction, “pitch, first draft, final proof, comments section.”) The snapshot came as something of a catharsis and a capstone: IRL red-carpet fashion was back! Yet, admittedly, looking a little dif- ferent. The Cannes quartet was a glimpse at a hybridized new par- adigm in which celebrities and stylists were playing across a wide range of cues, from the casual and Zoom-ified to the highest chords of electrifying chic. The risks celebrities and their stylists began tak- ing while dressing within the bounds of a Zoom window seemed to have paid off with a new, more freewheeling approach to step-and- repeat style. When virtual dressing became a hot topic last year, it evolved almost as quickly as the news cycle. There were plenty of stories about people dressing up, from the waist up, for digital meet- ings while wearing off-camera sweatpants. Eventually, however, a 48



Front Row R E D C A R P E T hunger for non-athleisure became more pronounced. For the MicahMcDonald.Itwasthestuffoffashionfantasy.Formichetti 2020EmmyAwards,heldvirtually,theshow’sproducerssenta praises Lil Nas X’s Richard Quinn and Andrea Grossi outfits at note to nominees with a dress-code prompt: “Come as you are, the BET Awards, which were styled by Hodo Musa, and Rina but make an effort!” That command is actually a pretty good Sawayama’s turn at the BRIT Awards in frilly Balmain. Also at way to contextualize the fresh outlook around the return of the BET Awards: Zendaya alighting in Versace—from spring in-person, high-profile dressing (even if it’s still touch-and-go; 2003. (Her stylist is the renowned image architect Law Roach.) at press time, COVID-19’s Delta variant was spiking). It was a version of the same dress Beyoncé sported to perform Asked if the virtual advanced how she approaches the her song “Crazy in Love” at the same ceremony, also in 2003. physical, celebrity stylist Elizabeth Stewart, who works with All four examples illustrate that aforementioned 2020 Emmys Viola Davis and Amanda Seyfried (and who styled this is- directive:Thesepeopleappearedtruetotheirsartorialleanings, sue’s Women in Hollywood portfolio), says, “Once we got and all of them were absolutely serving. the hang of it, there was a lot of freedom in choosing looks “My clients are unapologetically searching for synergy,” for virtual red carpets.” Her implication says Solange Franklin Reed, who dressed was that all the screen time did, in fact, her client Jodie Turner-Smith in vibrant impact the manner in which in-person “VIRTUAL Christopher John Rogers this past sum- fashion is considered in 2021. Jason mer to promote her Anne Boleyn mini- Rembert, stylist to Lizzo and Issa Rae and RED-CARPET series. “They’re emboldened to request the founder of the label Aliétte, echoes FASHION the brands and, what’s newer, the spe- the position: “Virtual red-carpet fashion HELPED cific teams that truly make them feel helped push the envelope. We had to PUSH THE seen. I appreciate that we’re aligned on work differently, utilizing photography, intentionality.” lighting, and backdrops to help create those red-carpet looks from our own As stars return to step-and-re- peats (Zendaya in Balmain in Venice! confined spaces.” From a creative stand- ENVELOPE.” Olivia Rodrigo in archive Versace at the point, he says, “it was beneficial for us VMAs!), so does the go-for-broke attitude all.” Nicola Formichetti, the stylist and —Stylist Jason Rembert they showed off on their virtual equiva- creative consultant for Haus of Gaga/ lents. Circling back to another Cannes Haus Labs, says that those in his profes- standout, who could forget Bella Hadid? sion “had to become more resourceful in There, at the premiere of Tre Piani, she order to keep creating, but more importantly, keep inspiring.” wore a Schiaparelli Haute Couture deep-U-neck black wool This year’s red-carpet looks feel enlivened by a refreshed, crepedressdesignedbyDanielRoseberry.Ontopofit,herneck- charged-up sense of dynamic liberty—with resultant confi- lace—also by Roseberry—depicted lungs with golden, spindly dence, ownership, openness, and often boldness—regardless bronchi and rhinestone-tipped alveoli. It was a striking, unfor- of whether someone is going for the low-key, the high-wattage, gettableimage,dueinparttothefactthatonecouldextrapolate orsomethinginbetween.Allthatadaptationalsoseemstohave therespiratoryvisualashavinggreaterresonance.Whenthere’s emboldenedwardrobe decision-making,withconsistently joy- been so much negative health-related news over the past year ousandoptimisticoutfitsspottedfromlabelslargeandsmall.At and a half, Roseberry inverted the gloom and made something the 2021 Oscars, where a select few were permitted in person, beautiful of the body, worn to perfection by Hadid. In that one ReginaKinggaveusafull,butterfly-wingedLouisVuittonprin- moment, it was sealed: This era’s red-carpet fashion is proving cessknockoutcourtesyofherstylists,WaymanBannermanand to be a breath of fresh air. FROM LEFT: THANDIWE NEWTON IN JW N EW TO N A N D HAD DIS H: C O U RT ESY O F T H E SU BJ E CTS; Z EN DAYA: ALES SA N DR A ANDERSON PROMOTING REMINISCENCE; BENEDETTI/CORBIS/GETTY IMAGES. ZENDAYA IN BALMAIN AT THE VENICE FILM FESTIVAL; TIFFANY HADDISH IN HERVÉ LÉGER.

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Accessories Fine ART This season’s most spectacular high jewelry collections hold their own against timeless works of art and scenes from nature. Collages by Anna Bu Kliewer. Brooch, Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger, tiffany.com.

Accessories High Jewelry Serpenti necklace, Bulgari, bulgari.com.

Sparks earrings, Harry Winston, harrywinston.com.

Accessories Sixième Sens High Jewelry earrings, Cartier, by appointment only at select Cartier boutiques nationwide.

Red Carpet Collection ring, Chopard, 800-CHOPARD.

Accessories Galaxie Tourbillon clip, Van Cleef & Arpels, 877-VAN-CLEEF.

The Spotlight Squad Charlize Theron Misty Copeland Yao Chen

Accessories La Constellation d’Hercule necklace, Louis Vuitton, louisvuitton.com.

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Shop ESTELLE HANANIA/COURTESY OF DIOR. When it comes to being properly outfitted for the slopes, it’s all about finding gear that can stand up to the elements—and still look chic for après-ski cocktails. PEAK Performance DIOR’S DIORALPS CAPSULE

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Shop 1 4 2 3 13 5 12 THOM BROWNE 6 11 7 8 9 10 1. Jacket, Herno, $1,010, herno.com. 2. Coin purse, Chanel, $925, select Chanel boutiques nationwide. 3. Turtleneck, Dodo Bar Or, $505, intermix.com. 4. Coat, Arc’teryx, $399, arcteryx.com. 5. Ski, Atomic, $480 (for pair), atomic.com. 6. Balaclava, Marine Serre, $240, marineserre.com. 7. Women’s ski pole, Leki, $160 (for pair), Christy Sports stores nationwide. 8. Ski boot, Head, $550, head.com. 9. Ski gloves, Hestra, $150, REI stores nationwide. 10. Belted ski pants, Erin Snow, $588, erinsnow.com. 11. Cryo-Recovery Eye Serum, Charlotte Tilbury, $68, charlottetilbury.com. 12. Visor helmet, Salomon, $250, salomon.com. 13. Turtleneck, Alp N Rock, $268, alpnrock.com. Mountain HIGH

3 Après SKI 1 1. Overalls, Isabel Marant, $650, mytheresa.com. 2. Coat, 8 Moncler Palm Angels, 2 $1,635, moncler.com. 3. Flask, Smathers and Branson, $65, smathersandbranson .com. 4. Wrist warmers, Alanui, $200, farfetch.com. 5. Hiking boot, FP Movement x Danner, $180, fpmovement.com. 6. Knit vest, Lingua Franca NYC, $515, net-a-porter .com. 7. Pants, Miu Miu, $1,610, miumiu.com. 8. Balaclava, All Things Mochi, $70, allthingsmochi.com. 9. Boot, Ugg, $300, ugg.com. 10. Sunglasses, Andy Wolf, $317, andy-wolf.com. 11. Ski Cream, Dr. Barbara Sturm, $115, drsturm.com. 12. Socks, Alicia Adams Alpaca, $89, aliciaadamsalpaca.com. 13. Handbag, Boyy, $1,230, boyy.com. 14. Cropped sweater, Longchamp, $460, longchamp.com. 4 MIU MIU 5 6 7 8 ISABEL MARANT OVERALLS: COURTESY OF MYTHERESA; MIU MIU PANTS: 14 10 9 COURTESY OF MODA OPERANDI; POLAROID FRAMES: SAMXMEG/GETTY 12 11 IMAGES; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS. 13 65

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COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER. Beauty Match MAKER Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli and makeup artist Pat McGrath paired runway ensembles with vibrant winged eyeliner at the Valentino Couture fall 2021 show. To create an eye look that coordinates with any outfit, start with a compact that provides a painter’s palette of options, such as Claropsyche Sketch Paint ($30; claropsyche.com). With 15 starter shades, this kit allows you to blend different hues together to create a bespoke shade of your choosing. Tip: Add a dash of Mehron Makeup Mixing Liquid ($11; mehron.com) to the shadow to intensify the color and boost its staying power.—MARGAUX ANBOUBA

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PRESENTED BY GUERLAIN Get Beautiful Skin and Help Save the Bees Thanks to millions (and counting) of social media posts about saving the bees, you likely know that the planet’s bee count is in serious decline. That’s bad news for the environment. Fortunately, there’s plenty you can do to help, starting with choosing and using beauty brands like Guerlain, which have demonstrated a commitment to helping protect the bee population. GUERLAIN HAS LONG HAD A LOVE AFFAIR WITH BEES. In 1853, more than 165 years before the plight of bees reached a fever pitch on social media, Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain created the iconic Bee Bottle. The ornate vessel (which contained a fragrance) was gifted to French Empress Eugénie, a gesture so successful, Guerlain instantly became a world-renowned perfumer—and the bee became an enduring symbol of the brand. In the ensuing years, bees have inspired countless Guerlain projects, including new fragrances, boutique decor, and the brand’s pioneering Guerlain for Bees Conservation Program, which helps develop more robust hive stocks, promotes beekeeping, and provides financial support for bee-friendly research. Over a decade ago, Guerlain also developed its Abeille Royale line, a skin care collection that uses honey and royal jelly as beauty-revitalizing actives. This year, the brand reformulated the queen bee of the line, the best-selling Abeille Royale Advanced Youth Watery Oil. Made with 95 percent naturally derived ingredients, the watery oil now boasts the sustainably sourced Honey Blend, a mix of Black Bee Honey from Ouessant Island (a UNESCO site) and honeys from the preserved islands of Corsica (France), Ikaria (Greece), and Åland (Finland). Using the product daily accelerates skin beauty repair, softens fine lines, boosts radiance, and increases hydration—results we can all get bee-hind. GUERLAIN ABEILLE ROYALE ADVANCED YOUTH WATERY OIL, $135, GUERLAIN.COM

Beauty O F F I C E H O U R S NEEDA LIFT? Can a new FDA-cleared skin-smoothing treatment yield results that rival plastic surgery? We asked the experts. espite notable advances in non- and minimal- Most patients will find multiple sessions, spaced about a DANIELLA MIDENGE/BLAUBLUT EDITION. ly invasive treatments for fine lines and sun month apart, yield the best results. During clinical trials, “we saw a benefit after the first treatment, but patients who had two D damage, sagging facial skin has proved chal- or three did even better,” says Manhattan dermatologist Roy lenging to treat without a scalpel. Sure, topi- Geronemus, MD, a researcher on the Ellacor trials. After three cals can help improve the appearance of loose, sessions, a patient may have had as much as 15 percent (or more) crepey skin; microcurrent facials may provide of excess skin removed in the mid-to-lower face. a temporary lift; and collagen-boosting resurfacing lasers or energy-based treatments like Ultherapy can subtly firm a slack So what does the skin look like post-treatment? Andrea Jones, jawline. But to address significant creasing and slackening, most a 60-year-old bookkeeper in Nashville, says she researched get- cosmetic doctors agree that a facelift is still the only option. ting a facelift at 50, but decided against it because of the consid- Cytrellis’s new Ellacor system is hoping to change that. Recently erable post-op healing time. When she was invited to try Ellacor cleared by the FDA* to treat moderate to severe wrinkles in the during its FDA clinical trials, she jumped at the chance. mid-to-lower face, Ellacor is positioning itself as a viable, min- imally invasive alternative to surgery. After her first session, Jones says she saw some subtle chang- How it works: Unlike microneedling, which uses tiny solid es two days later. After the second and third sessions, she says, “I needles to superficially puncture the skin, eliciting a healing (col- really noticed my skin seemed smoother, and I saw a noticeable lagen-boosting) response, Ellacor utilizes micro-coring, in which reduction in the lines around my mouth and jowls.” a proprietary device outfitted with hollow needles penetrates up to four millimeters into facial tissue and removes microscopic Jones’s experience was similar to the patient results columns of skin. It took years of research for Cytrellis’s founders, Geronemus saw. Most had some wrinkle reduction and jawline dermatologist Rox Anderson, MD, and plastic surgeon William smoothing—but nothing that rivaled a facelift, even with the re- Austen, MD, to determine the precise amount of skin to extract moval of all that extra skin. Why? Likely because a facelift does for skin smoothing—without scarring. more than pull slack skin taut; it also tightens the facial muscular A single Ellacor treatment typically takes less than 45 min- system under the skin to create a dramatic lift. utes (including time for a topical anesthetic to take effect) and removes up to 8 percent of skin in the treatment area, an amount Bottom line: Ellacor may not yield facelift-like results, but it’s comparable to some surgical procedures. As those tiny channels low risk, high reward. “Ellacor accomplishes a lot without the heal and close up, the space between the columns realigns and wounding typically required with other technologies [like lasers subtly shrinks, smoothing the skin. Unlike surgery, this pro- or surgery],” Geronemus says. “Previously, patients had to take cedure yields quick results with minimal recovery time. Most off a week or more to recover. Now they can achieve [significant patients say their skin (which may be pink and slightly swollen smoothing],withminimaldowntime.”—MARGAUX ANBOUBA post-treatment) is healed enough to resume normal activities within three days, around the time some report seeing early re- *Ellacor is currently FDA-cleared to be used on skin types 1 through sults. Improvement may continue for several weeks. 4 on the Fitzpatrick Scale (very fair to olive skin). Because the mechanical manipulation of darker skin (Fitzpatrick skin types 5 and 6) can cause hyperpigmentation, a separate clinical trial is needed to evaluate proper protocols for using the technology on those skin types.

FOR PEOPLE WHO © J&JCI 2021 ARE A LITTLE INTENSE ABOUT HYDRATION 48-HOUR HYDR ATION • HE ALTHY GLOW Y SKIN FOR PEOPLE WITH SKINTM

Ever wonder what the cosmetic chemists who help develop your favorite skin care products use on their own complexions? So did we. Here, their picks for sensitive, dry, and combination skin. SCIENTIST: Erica Douglas, SCIENTIST: Krupa Koestline, SCIENTIST: Michelle Wong, PhD, PRODUCT SMEARS: JEFFREY WESTBROOK/STUDIO D; PETRI DISHES: WLADIMIR BULGAR/ Chicago, Illinois Winter Garden, Florida Sydney, Australia SCIENCE PHOTO LI/GETTY IMAGES; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE BRANDS. SKIN TYPE: Sensitive SKIN TYPE: Dry SKIN TYPE: Combo to oily BRANDS SHE’S WORKED WITH: BRANDS SHE’S WORKED WITH: BRANDS SHE’S WORKED WITH: Beauty by Africa Miranda, Masami, Estée Lauder, Neutrogena, May Wong has signed nondisclosure agree- and ORS Hair Care Lindstrom Skin, and Chantecaille ments, so she can’t name names, but she can reveal that she’s worked with skin SKIN STRATEGY: After struggling SKIN STRATEGY: Four years ago, care brands to help develop acne, anti- with very sensitive skin as a child, while Koestline was pregnant, her skin aging, and sun protection products. Douglas learned to avoid nickel, certain shifted from oily to dry, so she swapped laundry detergents, anything highly her oil-control products for oil-based SKIN STRATEGY: She considers her fragranced, and soaps and shampoos formulas to stabilize her skin’s pH lev- skin “oily and dehydrated,” so Wong with high levels of sulfates. Instead, she els. Postpregnancy, she maintained this chooses formulas that nourish—but reaches for simple, naturally derived approach—and simplified her regimen uses them primarily at night so her skin formulas with nourishing ingredients, to a few multitasking products. “To isn’t overly slick during the day. “I also like natural oils and butters. maintain hydration and prevent irri- struggle with clogged pores—common tation, I now limit what I use to select for oilier skin—so I exfoliate regularly to PRODUCT PICKS: Fig + Yarrow formulas packed with science-backed keep things clear.” Apothecary Palmarosa Charcoal ingredients,” she says. Facial Cleanser ($38). “In addition to PRODUCT PICKS: Neutrogena charcoal, this formula has tamanu oil PRODUCT PICKS: One Love Beauty Rapid Wrinkle Repair Regenerating to help with eczema and other sen- Botanical B Enzyme Cleansing Oil Cream ($32). “At night, I alternate be- sitive-skin issues.” Beauty by Africa ($42). “This is my go-to for removing tween retinoid creams and chemical Miranda Facial Elixir ($48). “I use even stubborn makeup. It leaves my exfoliants. On the nights I opt for the this to remove makeup and give my skin clean, yet supple.” May Lindstrom former, I use either a prescription skin an extra glow. It’s filled with lots Skin The Blue Cocoon Solid Oil Facial tretinoin or a gentler, over-the-counter of soothing and hydrating ingredients, Concentrate ($180). “I have gone retinoid, like Neutrogena.” Paula’s including maracuja oil, cupuaçu but- through more jars of this than I can Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA ter, rose hip oil, and vitamin E.” Good count! I love the results and the expe- Liquid Exfoliant ($30) or Biologique Science Beauty 003-Hy Hydrating rience of using the luxurious balm. It’s Recherche Lotion P50 ($103).“On the Face Cream ($78). “This moisturiz- filled with tea seed oil, cocoa butter, nights I apply a chemical exfoliant, I use er absorbs quickly and maintains hy- and marula oil.” Chantecaille CBD 300 Paula’s Choice if I have inflamed pim- dration all day. It also uses two of my Face and Body Cream ($125). “I use ples, or Biologique, which is a bit stron- favorite [antiagers], niacinamide and this moisturizer with THC-free canna- ger, when I have no breakouts.” hyaluronic acid.” bis sativa stem cell extract to reduce vis- ible redness and boost hydration.” —JANELL M. HICKMAN-KIRBY 74



Beauty G E N I U S JENNA PERRY Known for creating hair color that goes completely viral, this for dozens of celebrity cool girls. MANE PERRY AND HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY: COURTESY OF THE SUBJECTS; MUST-HAVE HA DID : M ARC PIAS E C KI/GE T T Y IMAGE S; APATOW: DAVIS BATE S; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE BRANDS. “Hot girl hair is healthy hair,” says Perry—and that starts with using a deep conditioner weekly. She recommends choosing a formula that’s super-hydrating but rinses clean away, since any film left behind can dull your color. Her pick: R+Co Bleu De Luxe Reparative Masque ($73; bleu.randco.com). HER MODEL MUSE she wore in early 2021. WARMING TREND the fall and winter, she explains, SECRET your skin can become more sallow, but “warm tones bring After a coloring session at out the pink in your skin and Hadid’s house, the model let make you look healthier.” Perry try her trūMedic To maintain the vibrancy, Perry suggests using a color-protecting truShiatsu Pro Foot Massager shampoo and conditioner, ($180; amazon.com). Perry was like Rahua Color Full Shampoo so hooked, she immediately and Conditioner ($78 for set; ordered one. “It’s become part rahua.com). of my nightly routine, because I’m on my feet all day.” 76

UNCAP THE LOVE™

Beauty B O DY A R T NEW TATTOOING TECHNOLOGY MAY ENABLE YOU TO GET INKED ON A WHIM—WITHOUT THE RISK OF REGRET. hen I first heard about Ephemeral Tattoo, a decided to get an Ephemeral tattoo of my own. W shop that uses ink that fades in 9 to 15 months, Ephemeral Tattoo’s Brooklyn studio feels like a high-end I scoffed. Getting tattooed is a meaningful, hair salon, outfitted with a Bird of Paradise plant, boxed wa- deeply personal process, and made-to-fade ter, and a plush rug. When I arrived, a customer service rep artwork seemed to trivialize the art form. But explained that Ephemeral tattoos are currently done only in then I realized my reaction was hypocritical. I black (color ink is in the works) and that all the designs must be haveabout20tattoos,andnotallaretheresultofdeepreflection. smaller than about 4\" x 4\" so they can fit under a standard-size Ididn’tevenchoosetheartworkformyfavorite,alargefloraltat- hydrocolloid patch to accelerate healing. Ephemeral designs too that I got when I worked at a magazine and let readers vote will also cost more than most traditional tattoos, with prices on the design. I conceded that there may be a place for semiper- starting at $195 (you can get a small, basic tattoo for about $80 manent adornment. in New York City). People get tattoos for rea- Once I met my tattoo artist, sons as varied as the designs Anastasia, it was business as usual. themselves. We get marked Disappearing We discussed the size and place- to assert our personal iden- ment of a mandala design I’d cho- tity, to honor our cultural INK sen because sand mandalas, like heritage, to commemorate Ephemeral tattoos, are temporary. a loved one. Many also get Then Anastasia cleaned my skin, inked on a whim—and a transferred the stencil to my an- not-insignificant number (28 kle, and pulled out the same kind percent, according to a sur- of machine used to do traditional vey by the market research tattoos. I watched as she dipped company Dalia) say they re- into the black ink, and when the gret doing so. needle touched down on my skin, Tattoo regret was, in fact, Now that no-regret, I got the same thrill—a stinging one impetus for Ephemeral, sensation that dissipated as adren- which currently has outposts semipermanent tattoos aline kicked in. in Brooklyn and Los Angeles are possible, will the While some tattoo artists (with more locations com- way we adorn our bodies ing soon). “With tradition- would never want to use ink that al ink, the pigment particles change forever? fades, I appreciated Anastasia’s are too large for your body take: She said she liked how to break down,” says Dhaval Ephemeral Tattoo lowers the bar- riers to entry, introducing new Bhanusali, MD, a Manhattan people to the art form. She’s also dermatologist who helped had clients try out designs before develop Ephemeral’s propri- making them permanent, and etary temporary ink. “The macrophages [white blood cells that otherswhohavewantedtomarkamoment—butnotcommemo- BEN R AYN ER/T RU N K ARC HI VE . digest foreign particles] just can’t get in there.” But the pigment rateitontheirskinforever.AsBhanusaliputit:“Thepersonyou particles in Ephemeral Tattoo ink are smaller and wrapped in a are today isn’t the person you were two years ago, or the person polymer complex that degrades over time, releasing the color you will be tomorrow.” and enabling it to be passed out of the body as waste. When my tattoo was finally finished about an hour later, Scientifically, this makes sense. But can you call something I knew I’d warmed to Ephemeral. I decided that if people are that is impermanent a tattoo—or is it more like makeup? And allowed to evolve, the art of tattooing should be able to as well. how do you choose a design that won’t last? To find answers, I —JENNIFER G. SULLIVAN 78

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THE NEW FRAGRANCE E XC L U S I V E LY AT :

BeautyW E L L N E S S WeNeed toTalk About Perimenopause Why was I so unprepared for when my periods started to change? By Alyssa Schwartz don’t think I’ve been more prepared for any- anxiety, just 7 percent of women could identify the full gamut as thing in my life as I was for my first period, potentiallybeinglinkedtochanginghormones.Oneinsixwom- I which I credit to the girls of Cabin G11 at en were unaware of any symptoms linked to perimenopause. Camp Manitou. Every night the summer I “Imagine if you got pregnant and didn’t know what pregnancy turned 12, after the counselors had turned was,” says Jen Gunter, MD, an ob-gyn and author. “Not under- out the lights and in between plotting raids of standing what’s happening to your body is so disempowering.” the boys’ cabins we never had the guts to carry out, we’d cram Gunter says she knew women were hungry for information into the top bunks and discuss the change that was upon us. after doing a publicity tour for her sexual health compendium, Rebecca, a New Yorker who was a year older than we were and The Vagina Bible. “At every book signing, there were questions had already had her period, was our resident expert, dishing aboutmenopauseandtheyearsprecedingit,andonceoneperson about the realities of cramps and using tampons (neither as asked,itwouldopenafloodgate.Istartedthinkingabouttheques- painful as feared, she assured us). Several months later, when tionstheywereaskingandhowdesperatetheyseemedforinfor- I discovered I had my period in a synagogue bathroom stall mation, and it occurred to me: Do people not know anything?” during a friend’s bat mitzvah, it seemed momentous and excit- In AARP’s survey, one of the top responses women gave when ing. I felt completely in control, thanks to the hours and hours askedhowhormonalchangesintheirbodiesmadethemfeelwas we’d spent at camp discussing what to expect. a single word: old. “We’re led to believe we’re aging out,” Gunter Which is the opposite of how I felt at age 43 when my pe- says. “Who wants to talk about your graduation to irrelevance?” riods started changing in the early months of the pandemic. My mom subscribed to the long-held Fight Club rule of Overnight, it seemed, my cycles shrank by several days, and af- perimenopause: Don’t talk about it. Though I grew up in a let- ter three decades of fairly it-all-hang-out household, light, manageable periods, and she and I are close, she there was blood—a lot more “DID NO ONE WARN US never offered much about than before—and cramps her own experience until bad enough to wake me ABOUT PERIMENOPAUSE TO I started asking questions. in the middle of the night. PROTECT US?” But forgoing these conver- One rough Sunday morn- sations has consequences. ing, when I felt too bad to “If you don’t talk about it, make a standing virtual you think something’s real- card game I played with three friends my age, I sheepishly text- ly wrong with you. Like, what is this brain fog? It can be really ed that I had to bail because of my period. “Did no one warn us debilitating and confusing if we’re not educated about it,” says about perimenopause periods to protect us? Like how in olden Claire Gill, founder of the National Menopause Foundation. times unmarried women had no clue about childbirth?” my Not knowing the effects of changing hormones could mean friend Kat responded immediately. needless suffering, in part because doctors are in the dark, too: Given that the average age of menopause is 51, perimeno- Less than 7 percent of family medicine, internal medicine, and pause—defined as the transitional stage leading up to a person’s ob-gyn residents feel adequately prepared to help patients last period—wasn’t on my radar yet. After years of watching manage this life stage, and about 20 percent report gaps re- shows like The Golden Girls and Grace and Frankie, I thought I garding menopause (including perimenopause and postmeno- hadahandleonwhatwasahead.AndIalsothoughtIhadyearsto pause) in their education. This means we have to advocate getthere.That’sbecausenooneevermentionedperimenopause. harder for ourselves—something that’s hard to do if we don’t TotheextentthatIthoughtaboutmenopauseatall,Iusedto understand what’s happening in the first place. assume that meant a slow fade, with hot flashes and chin hairs It’s also a huge relief to know you’re not alone. Since Kat men- waitingformeaftermyperiodstrickledout.Infact,it’stheyears tionedthep-wordinourgrouptext,wehaven’tstoppedmessag- (or even decade) leading up to menopause—called perimeno- ing about all the weird things our bodies are doing. It’s my most pause—when hormone levels fluctuate, that can often be the TMI text chat—and also my most validating and comforting. most tumultuous. For all the education and talk leading up to Talk isn’t just talk. Research shows, for example, that facilitated puberty, there’s remarkable silence around this later transition. peer support groups for new parents can help raise moms’ self- In a February 2021 AARP survey of women 35 and older, nearly esteem.Inthecaseofmygrouptext,bringingitalloutintheopen 6in10saidthehormonalchangesassociatedwithagingweren’t has helped me feel better. I don’t look at my friends and think discussedenough,andjust14percentofwomenages35to49said they’re old or washed up or any of the things perimenopause they felt “very informed” about what to expect. makes me feel about myself; if they’re going through this, it’s a Meanwhile, fewer than half of women say they’ve discussed reminder that I’m not either. And just like learning how to use menopause-relatedbodychangeswithamotherormotherfigure a tampon at camp, the practical advice we share—like taking a or other relative, their friends, or even a health care provider— slow-releaseibuprofen,thekindtheymakeforarthritissufferers, ever. When presented with a list of 28 symptoms ranging from beforebedtopreventwakingupwithcramps—hasbeennothing night sweats and weight gain to heavy periods, skin dryness, and short of life-changing. Pssst, pass it on. ▪ 82 YOUR BODY KNOWS BEST (2020) BY EMMA CURRIE.



LINDE FREYA TANGELDER SAM BARON JINYEONG YEON JOY DE YE O N : SU N GM I N K IM ; TS HI KAR E W IT H C HA IR : AYE S H A KAZIM; RE MAINING IMAGE S: MARION BE RRIN. ROHAN CHABOT ATANG Clockwise from top left: Baron’s aim was to transform the solitary chair TSHIKARE into something more convivial. His interpretations include a rocking chair for two, a bench, and a swing, all referencing the caning pattern of the original and rendered in either lacquered metal or woven straw and wood. Tangelder wanted to give her design “a sober, simple touch,” landing on a dénudé brushed-aluminum form. Yeon’s chair, made of reclaimed pipe with an anodized finish, appears, as intended, on the verge of collapse. Tshikare found inspiration in ancient Sotho/Tswana wisdom, which revered constellations as gods. Chabot channeled nature in bronze and copper castings of flora to form the back and seat of her chair.

LivingD E C O R INDIA Have a MAHDAVI SEAT PIERRE Christian Dior’s beloved YOVANOVITCH Medallion chair gets several artful updates, thanks to some of today’s most exciting talents. “SOBER, SIMPLE, and above all clas- sic and Parisian” were Christian Dior’s guiding design principles when found- ing his house in 1946. One of the most enduring elements of that aesthetic is the Medallion chair, a Louis XVI number with a caned back that made its debut in Dior’s Colifichet boutique in 1947—and remains a fixture in Dior’s Paris HQ and Dior boutiques around the world. Its dis- tinctive cannage pattern has influenced everything from the stitching on the icon- ic Lady Dior bag to the house’s fine jew- elry collections. This fall, Dior invited 17 artists and designers to reinterpret the 30 Avenue Montaigne mainstay. Among the talents: architect and in- terior designer India Mahdavi, who first collaborated with Dior Maison on a ta- bleware collection in 2016. For her, the Medallion represents not only an em- blematic piece from the House of Dior, but “a certain French classicism.” She sees the house as “a modern vision of France,” not unlike her own work, which includes the Hôtel du Cloître in Arles. Ditto designer Pierre Yovanovitch, who identifies with Dior’s original dictum. “In my work, I force myself to create pieces that are timeless and that are the results of uncompromising attention to detail and quality,” he says. “My furni- ture has a lot of personality, but it doesn’t change the general atmosphere of the space.”—NAOMI ROUGEAU Select chairs can be made to order, available through Dior boutiques worldwide. Top left: Paris-based architect and interior designer Mahdavi chose fabric woven in Kashmir using an Indian embroidery technique called aari to create a more abstract, contemporary look. Left: A Broderies Vermont artisan hand-embroidered Dior’s ’70s-era Oblique motif onto canvas, which designer Yovanovitch then used to upholster his minimal bronze-framed chair. He envisioned the frame and fabric as a couple, “two objects that resemble each other intrinsically, but their personalities differ.” 85

Living T R AV E L The Hills Are Alive DebiMazarembarks on perhaps her greatest act yet: renovating a centuries-old family home inTuscany. “I ALWAYS SAID, ‘One day I’ll bring him back,’ ” says actress table with white leather upholstered chairs. Debi Mazar of the promise she made to her Italian mother-in- Corcos and the girls aren’t fans of turkey, so this Thanksgiving, law after she wed Fiesole-bred chef Gabriele Corcos. For nearly two decades, Mazar toggled between New York and L.A. for it’s likely to be another pancetta-wrapped bird as a compromise, work while the couple raised their daughters, Giulia and Evelina, cooked Tuscan-style. Budding chef Giulia will whip up vegeta- in Brooklyn—until circumstances created the right opening for bles plucked from the garden, while Evelina will stick to arrang- Mazar to make good on that vow. “I love Italy and I’m a very ad- ing the charcuterie board, “because she likes to be fabulous like venturous woman,” she says. “So as soon as Evelina graduated that.” Mazar herself loves a properly set table, with her signature high school, I was like, ‘All right, let’s do this!’ ” twist: everything from brown Roseville Raymor Pottery pieces to whimsical midcentury plates, set off with vases, like Medici- ThoughCorcosandMazaralreadyhadasmallpropertyonthe era Deruta pottery or ’50s Danish. Also on the table: olive oil family compound, Corcos’s mother was finding her own home, a from the family grove, home to about 20,000 olive trees; silver rambling 11th-century stone house complete with a 10th-century accents from famed Florentine silversmiths Fratelli Peruzzi; and tower, a bit too large for just herself. But it was just the right size tablecloths and napkins made by local seamstresses. FROM LEFT: THE PROPERTY’S VAST OLIVE GROVES; MAZAR AT HOME IN FIESOLE. for Mazar and her family, who packed “I LITERALLY SIT Fall favorites of the Mazar-Corcos TO MATO ES: DJA MEL BO U YO U C EF/ EYE EM /G ET T Y I M AG ES; R E MA IN I N G I MAG ES: CO URT E SY OF TH E SU BJE C T. up their belongings to the tune of two clan include Fiesole’s cheese festival 40-foot shipping containers and some IN MY CHAIR WITH and the November olive harvest, while 800 boxes. “I’m not a hoarder,” Mazar A CIGARETTE AND Mazar recommends the Ferragamo insists. “I’ve just been collecting shit A GLASS OF WINE family’s Il Borro for wine tastings my whole life.” Her treasure trove in- AND I’M LIKE, WHO and lodging. In search of the perfect cludes vintage couture, for which she ARE YOU?!” souvenir? Loretta Caponi’s hand- is designing a custom wardrobe, “very embroidered linens and nightgowns ’40s, Milanese modern”; midcentury are a favorite of Mazar’s, as are Santa lighting; and black-and-white photog- Maria Novella’s time-tested products. raphy, including the work of Robert “New York will always be there,” Frank and Walker Evans, now housed Mazar says, later adding, “I just didn’t inherturquoiseoffice(aboldshadechosentocounterbalanceall need to do the same things anymore, see the same people at theterra-cottabrowns).ThecollectingcontinuesnowthatMazar Balthazar.” Now, relaxing on her porch with the wind blowing is the proud owner of a teal electric Fiat Cinquecento. She loves through the cypress trees, she sometimes has to pinch herself. heading to nearby Arezzo for the furniture-filled flea market, “Iliterallysitinmychairwithacigaretteandaglassofwineand where she recently scored a ’60s Formica-topped wood dining I’m like, Who are you?!”—NAOMI ROUGEAU