Vogue USA 09.2021

CINNAMON ETERNAL FLAMES GIRLS center to right: Cover below: Karen star Ariel Nicholson’s Hadid’s streaks; new look (photographed Milla Jovovich in by Hunter Abrams); Gigi Hadid’s runway return; coils; a ginger Timothée Chalamet in Maude Apatow. Luca Guadagnino’s forthcoming Bones & All. Copper Tops JOVOVICH: © COLUMBIA PICTURES/EVERETT COLLECTION. TWIGS: DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY IMAGES. APATOW: DAVIS BATES. GIGI: COURTESY OF VERSACE. ELSON: LEA COLOMBO/TRUNK ARCHIVE. BELLA: LAURIE LYNN STARK. CHALAMET: YANNIS DRAKOULIDIS. An unlikely hair color is turning up everywhere, from TikTok to the Versace runway. There’s a good reason for that. TO SUCCESSFULLY PERSUADE MILLA JOVOVICH to roots and neon undertones achieved Besson’s vision of dye her hair a career-defining shade of bright copper for someone who “looked like she came from 20,000 years in the Luc Besson’s 1997 sci-fi classic The Fifth Element, hairstylist past and 20,000 years in the future,” successfully cementing Ward Stegerhoek appealed to her ambition. “I said, ‘Do you the “radioactive, almost alien” color into the pantheon of want to be a supermodel, or do you want to be an actress?’” movie moments turned mood-board-mainstays. recalls the visionary Dutch-born pro, who is perhaps best known for helping craft the artfully disheveled hair of the According to colorist and Bleach London cofounder Alex ’90s via his long-standing collaboration with the film’s Brownsell, Jovovich’s specific tone is behind the brand’s costume designer, Jean Paul Gaultier. Jovovich’s bleached Tangerine Dream, a bright-auburn semipermanent dye that recently eclipsed its popular Rosé, a candy-floss >204 196 SEPTEMBER 2021 VOGUE.COM



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pink, as its best-selling product. “Red and copper are tra- Close to Home ditionally colors for excitement,” Brownsell suggests as With new work and a philanthropic project, jeweler Ana Khouri is focused on her native Brazil. to why the off-kilter color seems to be having a moment: Filled with how-tos and DIY coloring tips, the #copper- hair hashtag on TikTok has nearly 25 million views and counting. “Everyone always wants to make a statement after something big has happened,” adds Victoria Hunter, colorist and co-owner of New York City’s Whittemore House Salon, who took model Ariel Nicholson to a rich shade of cinnamon for this month’s cover shoot. “Hair is a natural thing that people go to on an emotional level.” Emotions are apparently running high. During lock- down, FKA twigs debuted ultra-saturated copper curls, while Bella Hadid began the new year with a set of chunky, Ginger Spice–inspired face-framing highlights; her sister, Gigi, soon followed suit with long, fiery auburn strands for her post-baby debut at Versace’s fall show. “Right now, [it’s about] these dipped-in-Kool-Aid tones and a DIY henna look,” says New York–based colorist Jenna Perry, who, in addition to helping Bella become “Everyone always an instant E-girl beauty icon, has also given actresses Maude wants to make Apatow and Grace Van Patten the a statement after copper-top treatment. “My special- ty is balayage, but I’m noticing a lot something big of people don’t want to take them- has happened. selves that seriously right now,” continues Perry, a natural redhead. Hair is a natural It’s not just ’90s nostalgia that’s SPEAKING WITH THE New Since 2014, Khouri has also thing that driving the color’s comeback. York–based, São Paulo–born been overseeing Projeto Ovo, There’s a collective desire for a fresh jeweler Ana Khouri, you’ll quickly a philanthropic endeavor that notice her choice of words: she sells pre-owned (Khouri prefers people go to” slate—and becoming a redhead is makes pieces, not rings; retailers “pre-loved”) designer pieces a change for almost all of us: Only are exhibitors; shoppers are donated from various individuals collectors. Khouri is, in fact, an and brands, directing the about 1 to 2 percent of the popula- artist—she studied sculpture in proceeds to 80 different Brazil- Brazil and at Manhattan’s Parsons based NGOs. Last year, Khouri tion has naturally red hair. “We came out of the last year School, and the Musée des spent six months visiting her Arts Décoratifs in Paris shows home—an experience that led like different people, and we want to look like different her newest pieces each year. her to redouble her efforts to help. “In Brazil, everything is so people, too,” says author Jacky Colliss Harvey, whose Designing with ethically sourced close to you,” Khouri says of materials has always been a the country’s inequities before 2015 book, Red: A History of the Redhead, chronicles our focus; her next pieces, crafted from describing the toll of COVID vintage rosewood furniture, and the dramatic disparity of cultural depiction of these genetically rare heroines. “In include rings shaped like Froot wealth. “To realize that, next Loops and encrusted with colored to you, there’s someone living 19th-century paintings there was this image of the bohemi- stones, along with a pavé-diamond- without access to water.… laden version of Khouri’s cult There’s no way to not look an woman—always with a shade of wild red hair,” explains Mirian ring—a wraparound piece around—but at the same time that doesn’t reach all the way I’m thinking, How can we Colliss Harvey. “She was the one that everybody wanted around and that is named after look beyond ourselves? How her mother. There are also semi- can we realize that we’re all to be if they were going to declare their own individuality, enclosed chokers with diamonds, in this together?” —lilah ramzi similar to the Ana Khouri pieces independence, and selfhood.” worn by Vice President Kamala WILD STYLE Harris during President Joe Khouri and her latest ethically crafted And you need strength of character to willingly embark Biden’s address to a joint session PORTRAIT: BOB WOLFENSON. JEWELRY: COURTESY OF ANA KHOURI. of Congress. On the horizon: a pieces. Bracelet (top) and rings on this kind of double-process dye job. “Red-toned hair selection of gold sculptural rings at anakhouri.com. Photographed by to be sold at The Row. colors are really high maintenance,” admits Perry, noting Bob Wolfenson. that the color requires salon visits every six to eight weeks, and at-home gloss or color conditioners, such as Davines Alchemic Conditioner or Evo Fabuloso Colour Intensi- fying Conditioner, in between. Even Jovovich subjected herself to weekly touch-ups to maintain Stegerhoek’s blonde-at-the-base, flame-through-the-ends design. “She really did go all the way, and that’s why she nailed it,” he says. But there’s room in the red-led revolution for commitment-phobics, too. “We’re at a point where you can try something for the weekend,” Brownsell says of semi- permanent colors, such as Bleach London’s pastel-gold Awkward Peach, which fades in one to five washes. “It’s not going to damage your hair—and you can always switch it back.”—lauren valenti 204 SEPTEMBER 2021 VOGUE.COM

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9/11/21 Memory, history, and one breathtaking view. Photographed by Annie Leibovitz. LIKE SO MANY OTHERS ON that incredibly bright September morning, I first thought of my children. It was New York Fashion Week—Marc Jacobs had shown the night before, after an all-day rainstorm—and I immediately headed uptown because that’s where my children were. Charlie was at a school on the Upper West Side, so I picked him up first, and then we set off across Central Park to collect his younger sister, Bee. This is where my vivid memories come in: the abso- lute quiet of the park, the silence of the skies, and the emptiness of that walk. How strangely peaceful everything seemed. But the day was not peaceful, and with Bee and Charlie by my side, I could not think what to do. Our home was too far downtown, too close to where everything was happening, to return to. So we went nearby, to friends who were as important to us as family: Oscar and Annette de la Renta. Together we all watched television and tried to understand. What does 20 years feel like? An eon, if we’re being honest. The world has changed so dra- matically since that September morning. But in other ways, the tragedy of that day and its weight of history never disappears. If you lost a loved one, you carry the heaviest memories. And if you live in New York, you have your own 9/11. And what if you happen to work where I do? This is the view from my office. Annie Leibovitz took the picture when she visited recently—a not uncommon occurrence given our work together—but she doesn’t typically bring her camera. I wanted to express how reassuring it is to see this memorial day after day. The calm geometries of the pools with their sparkling cascades—silent from this height—and the ordered plazas of grass and trees. The oblique panels of the museum pavilion. The expressive sweep of the Oculus. Great architecture has magic, but it’s almost uncanny how well this particular site works, and how respectfully it is treated by its visitors every day. It has a soulful order and a sense of peace achieved. I love it—despite my memories or, maybe, because of them. To work here is an extraordi- nary gift: a connection to the past and a sense of hope for what comes next. —anna wintour 246

ALWAYS REMEMBER The 9/11 Memorial & Museum from the 25th floor of One World Trade Center.

WINDOW DRESSING Who said back-to-work style had to be conventional? Ariel Nicholson makes a bold case for daytime gaga glamour in a sequined-all-over Rick Owens dress, while designer Fe Noel drapes a sleeve on Vogue’s Nic Burdekin. (At far right, Vogue’s Mark Guiducci is all business.) Fashion Editors: Tonne Goodman and Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. ALL IN A DAY’S WERK As a talented array of models and designers takes over Vogue’s offices, Maya Singer reports on how new faces are changing modeling—and challenging definitions of beauty. Photographed by Ethan James Green..