british vogue september 2021

Fall Winter 2021 2022

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CONTENTS PETER LANGER; DAVID SIMS “Two highly original new Beauty & wellness 248 Into the unknown fashion graduates cross paths with Autumn/winter 2021 looks, courtesy 198 Director’s cut of two recent fashion design graduates some old-school greats” Jessica Diner on make-up’s renaissance and a selection of seasoned hands. Photographs by David Sims. Into the unknown, page 248 200 Practical magic Styling by Joe McKenna Mystical wellbeing. By Ellie Pithers Wonders 260 A life of firsts never cease, 202 Beauty musings Mia Mottley, Prime Minister Hannah Coates’s monthly must-haves of Barbados, talks to Gary Younge page 130 about changing the world. 205 Nature trails Photographs by Kyle Babb Lingering scents. By Twiggy Jalloh 276 Her beautiful world Conscious Beauty On the eve of the release of her much-anticipated third novel, 207 Planet-friendly innovations. literary sensation Sally Rooney Edited by Hannah Coates tells Olivia Marks how success has changed everything and nothing. Fashion & features Photographs by Perry Ogden 224 ON THE COVER 282 Game on At first light When Vogue’s Alex Harrington, Actor Gemma Chan – photographed Poppy Kain, Camilla Nickerson by Hanna Moon on the Thames at and Julia Sarr-Jamois came together dawn – interviewed by Zing Tsjeng. to style key new-season pieces. Styling by Kate Phelan Photographs by Daniel Jackson 232 “For creative people, to be Vogue asks excited is the only way” Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have 307 What would Stacey Abrams do? made co-designing work – four actors The American politician, lawyer and model the proof. By Afua Hirsch. author takes our quiz Photographs by Rafael Pavarotti. Styling by Edward Enninful 50 Subscribe to Turn to page 204 for our fantastic subscription offer, plus free gift

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EDITOR’S LETTER Gliding towards sunrise: September’s cover star, Gemma Chan – who is interviewed on page 224 – has a serenity that belies the fierce political undercurrent in her work and life Sometimes it is almost impossible to believe… MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT; HANNA MOON that it was only last year that necessary to do what Vogue has always done: to define the a new decade dawned. As the moment, and to cast our eye ahead, training our spotlight 2020s shimmered into view, on the fashion, ideas and people who will be shaping our it felt as though we were on shared new beginning. the cusp of a thrilling shift into our own Roaring ’20s. “Shared” is an important word. The past year has shown There was a renewed yearning just how interconnected we all are, including here at Vogue. for fashion and frolics, for This is why our September covers commissioned from good times, of course, but offices as far-flung as New York, Tokyo, Milan, Mexico also for society to change City and Madrid, as well as here in London, feature their and loosen up, for conventions own take on sunrise, a unifying moment of calm and poise to be rethought and the old as we collectively contemplate and celebrate the promise ways bettered. As we know all of a new day. Having worked closely on the project with too well, the months between Anna Wintour, our global chief content officer, for a number then and now have proved of months, it gives me great satisfaction to at last see the among the most testing in results of our collaboration. living memory; yet it seems to me that our desire for the For British Vogue, we dispatched photographer Hanna future we dreamt of has only strengthened. Moon to capture the sun rising over the Thames and, in the This feeling was much on my mind as the September soft light of the London dawn, a person who encapsulates issue began to take shape this year, and a guiding idea started precisely the mood of this special issue. Step forward to form: New Beginnings. After so much loss and prolonged Gemma Chan. Gemma isn’t your typical starlet. Aside anxiety, and with many communities – including fashion’s from having been a fixture on our screens for more than a – working hard to rebuild for what comes next, it felt decade, the British actor will be familiar to readers from our 2018 profile of her, as well as her appearance alongside 14 other inspirational women on our September > 64 61





EDITOR’S LETTER Emma Corrin is just one of the actors modelling Prada for our interview with co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, on page 232 Above, from top: 2019 Forces for Change cover, to catch up with Chan. But caught up it has, just in time DANIEL JACKSON; PERRY OGDEN; RAFAEL PAVAROTTI model Georgia guest-edited by the Duchess of to discover a wise, talented grown-up who is reimagining Sussex. But for Gemma, the the blueprint for what film stardom can be. Palmer in our global time to take centre stage is now. fashion summit, Even beyond our international sunrises, global on page 282; This autumn she plays a collaboration is at the heart of this issue. In a Vogue first, novelist Sally lead role in Chloé Zhao’s $200 on page 282, four fashion editors – British Vogue’s Poppy Rooney takes million Marvel spectacular Kain and Julia Sarr-Jamois, and American Vogue’s Camilla stock of her Eternals, before going on to Nickerson and Alex Harrington – team up with photographer star in next year’s thriller Don’t Daniel Jackson and a galaxy of runway names to each give runaway success, Worry Darling, alongside her their unique spin on the season’s standout looks. It is truly on page 276 old friend Harry Styles and Florence Pugh. Her career in a borderless style spectacular. overdrive, she dazzles on red carpets and is beloved by designers, but there’s no getting around the fact that her Meanwhile, on page 232, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons new beginning has been harder won than it should have speak about the new creativity they have fostered working been, and for many years the lead parts just weren’t there together at Prada. For the accompanying global fashion for an actor of Chinese heritage. Outside her film work, story, I had the great pleasure of styling four exceptional Gemma has long been a passionate advocate for social actors – Simone Ashley, Emma Corrin, Jessie Mei Li and justice, and during the rise in hate crimes and increased Wunmi Mosaku – who all fell well and truly under the spell aggression against Asian people during the pandemic, she of rising photographer Rafael Pavarotti as they wore has worked tirelessly to fundraise and to fight stigma. As highlights from the new Prada collection. journalist Zing Tsjeng writes in her interview with Gemma, on page 224, it has taken far too long for the film industry It’s September, so of course we are fashion packed – from our season-setting Trends section (which starts on page 99) to transportive fashion stories from across the land – > 64

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EDITOR’S LETTER PHILOSOPHY BY LORENZO SERAFINI Right: powerhouse Prime Minister Mia Mottley discusses her bold vision for Barbados, on page 260. Below: pick a colour, page 103 COPERNI VALENTINO but at the heart of the issue there are also people who have, is the experience of Kai-Isaiah Jamal, poet and model, who VERSACE like all of us, been changed by the past 18 months, and are has proved such an inspiration on catwalks recently. As a BURBERRY poised to re-energise the worlds of style, culture and politics, prominent trans person in fashion, their experience of both and to show us what’s next. the industry and the wider world is a must-read. KYLE BABB; SCOTT TRINDLE; SALVATORE DRAGONE/GORUNWAY.COM; ALESSANDRO LEVATI/SGP ITALIA; ALBERTO MADDALONI/IDI.SHOW Take Sally Rooney, the young Irish novelist who can surely In fact, all the people in this issue have something to teach lay claim to being the literary voice of her generation. For us about what our future might look like. Here in London, the quiet, considered author of Normal People the adjustment as the streets become increasingly filled with life, with an to celebrity has been a new normal in itself. As she returns autumn of certainties and unknowns ahead, it is clear we with the novel of the autumn, Beautiful World, Where Are are in a moment of huge evolution. Of course, new beginnings You – with its timely questions about climate change and never go quite as you imagine. But I am excited for ours. what constitutes a good life now – she gives an exclusive interview, from her lockdown hideaway in County Mayo, to Vogue’s Olivia Marks. And from one island to another, on page 260, Gary Younge speaks to Mia Mottley, the charismatic Prime Minister of Barbados, as she prepares to lead her country into its new era as a republic. On page 162, former lead director of the Serpentine Galleries Julia Peyton-Jones writes a Viewpoint about the book of drawings she made for her young daughter, Pia, during the lockdowns of 2020. Julia is an extraordinarily talented woman, whose decision to become a mother in her sixties attracted a lot of attention. To hear in her own words how her life has been transformed is deeply moving. As indeed 66















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NOTICES This month’s cover shot of actor Gemma Chan on the Thames at sunrise was captured by the London-based South Korean photographer Hanna Moon. “Sailing down the river so early in the morning was quite magical,” she says of the experience. For Game on, on page 282, “Working with Edward photographer Daniel Jackson and the entire team was a great pleasure,” recalls flew between London and photographer Rafael Pavarotti New York to capture some of of his fashion shoot with our editor-in-chief. “The energy, fashion’s favourite faces – talent and empowerment was styled by a four-strong team of overflowing.” Turn to page 232 international editors – in some to see their take on Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s second of the most in-demand pieces women’s collection, as worn from the autumn/winter by four of film and television’s 2021 collections. brightest stars. MEET & GREET Debut novelist Yvonne Bailey-Smith (above) and Introducing the faces model Fran Summers (left) behind this month’s issue are two of four contributors sharing their tales of new beginnings on page 166. COMPILED BY SOEY KIM. ELENA HEATHERWICK; HANNA MOON; JONAS “I believe I completed my novel MORTENSEN; RAFAEL PAVAROTTI; KATARZYNA PERLAK; SCOTT TRINDLE right when I was supposed to,” says Yvonne, who is 67 and the mother of Zadie Smith. “As I wrote in my book, ‘Nothing happens before its time.’” “Chatty, plain-spoken and fiercely smart, she has a rare talent among On page 162 – as she publishes a book of drawings politicians, not least national leaders,” says professor, writer and that tell the story of the pandemic through the eyes of her daughter, Pia – curator and gallery director broadcaster Gary Younge of Barbadian Prime Minister Mia Mottley, whom Julia Peyton-Jones reflects on becoming a mother at 64. he meets, on page 260, as she prepares to take her nation into a new era as a “My favourite sound is Pia’s laughter,” she tells Vogue. republic. “When you ask her a question, she listens to it and then answers it.” 76



















VOGUE.CO.UK Autumn inspiration Bella Hadid Visit Vogue.co.uk for the low-down on the season ahead RUNWAY Simon Porte Your Vogue’s- REPORTS Jacquemus eye view Street style Bullet points on the Go behind the sensations trends of note and scenes at fashion in-depth analysis of month with our Who wore the shows straight editors, who will what and from the front row bring you exclusive where – all the bookmark- to your screen. previews and conversations with worthy Adwoa looks from Aboah the world’s most outside the influential and presentations. exciting designers. Virginie Viard Sign up to The Get… DREAM BUYS AMI PARIS HARLEY WEIR; GETTY IMAGES … to receive Vogue editors’ From the best carefully curated seasonal coats to boots that picks direct to your inbox. will last a lifetime, browse our daily 86 shopping galleries to compile your a/w wishlist.



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