ASSESSING THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF MANUFACTURING SUSTAINABLE AND A NON-SUSTAINABLE GARMENTS
Acknowledgements Firstly, I would like to thank my supervisor for providing me continuous support and constructive feedback throughout the writing process. I appreciate the time you have put into this project. Secondly, thank you to the sustainable brand Wearvenn, garment manufacturing unit of Bodycare and the people who filled out my survey. Without you, it wouldn’t have been possible to complete my research. I am extremely grateful for your time and generous support. Lastly, I would like to thank my parents and my elder brother, for guiding me throughout and putting up with me. 1
Abstract Fashion is changing the world and it is not always in a good way. Individuals argue and get increasingly concerned about myriad unnecessary factors that they reckon lead to deterioration of the environment, but completely leave out on a great deal of environmental damage caused by the fashion industry itself. It is helping to propel climate change, and has got to stop. Collective ecological footprint of all the stages of the clothing production process is undoubtedly big. In recent years, environmental sustainability has become a key issue and a challenge for individuals as well as businesses. Therefore, many brands have been changing their production process in a way that it has little or no negative impact on the environment. However, due to the lack of consumer awareness about the impact of their low-quality and inexpensive purchases, sometimes referred to as ‘fast fashion’, it seems to be a long way before a stage is reached where fashion is eco-friendly and greener again. The purpose of this study was to assess the environmental impact of manufacturing sustainable and non-sustainable garments and meanwhile increase consumer awareness about environmental benefits of slow fashion by influencing their attitudes and purchase intentions towards such products. In this study an overview of sustainable and non-sustainable apparel supply chain, and its impact on the three most significant environmental parameters-land, water and air, is provided. It also highlights a few fast fashion and slow fashion brands, and focuses on their varying methods of production. Furthermore, the study also discusses consumers characteristics and factors that intent to influence their purchasing intentions. Based on the survey conducted, questionnaire sent to the sustainable brand Wearvenn, the visit to Bodycare’s manufacturing unit and the literature review, the results indicate that the impact of manufacturing a non-sustainable garment, such as cotton, on land, water and air is larger than the impact of manufacturing a sustainably sourced garment, such as organic cotton. Key Terms: Attitude, Apparel Industry, Fast Fashion, Slow Fashion, Environmental Values, Environmental Sustainability, Environmental Footprints, Environmental Degradation, Eco-friendly 2
Table of Contents Acknowledgements……………………………………………………………………………………………….1 Abstract…………………………………………………………………………………………………………......2 Table of Contents…………………………………………………………………………………………………3 List of Figures……………………………………………………………………………………………………..4 1 Introduction…………………………………………………………………………………………………........5 1.1 Background to the Problem Area………………………………………………………………………. 5-7 1.2 Aim and Objectives of the Study…………………………………………………………………………...7 2 Methodology……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 8 2.1 Applied Methods for Data collection and Analysis……………………………………………….. 10 2.1.1 Questionnaire………………………………………………………………………………………………….9-10 2.1.2 Visit………………………………………………………………………………………………………………10-11 2.1.3 Survey……………………………………………………………………………………………………………11-13 2.1.4 Literature study………………………………………………………………………………………………….13 3 Literature Review……………………………………………………………………………………………...14 3.1 Sustainability within the Textile and Apparel Industry………………………………………….14 3.2 Fast Fashion………………………………………………………………………………………………….....15 3.2.1 Fast Fashion Brands………………………………………………………………………………………15-16 3.2.2 Consumer Characteristics and Purchase Intentions……………………………………………...16 3.2.3 Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion-On-Land, Water and Air………………………16-19 3.3 Slow Fashion……………………………………………………………………………………………………19 3.3.1 Slow Fashion Brands………………………………………………………………………………………..20 3.3.2 Consumer Characteristics and Purchase Intentions……………………………………………..20 3.3.3 Environmental Impact of Slow Fashion-On-Land, Water and Air………………………….21 4 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………………………………….22 4.1 Future Research……………………………………………………………………………………………….22 List of References…………………………………………………………………………………………23-24 Appendices…………………………………………………………………………………………………25-28 3
List of Figures Figures: Figure 1: Process chart of thesis process and applied methods……………………….8 Figure 2: Life Cycle of a Garment………………………………………………………………..15 Figure 3: The slow fashion process………………………………………………………………19 Figure 4: Sustainable Fashion Consumption………………………………………………..20 Figure 5: 3-Nested-Dependencies Model……………………………………………………..22 4
1 Introduction 1.1 Background to the Problem Area While for most of the population, influencers decide what one should be wearing and fashion might just mean keeping up with whatever the current trend or style advocates, for others it might seem inessential to put a lot of thought into what they wear and how they wear it, thus they seem to limit their purchases to what they believe meets their standard needs and is affordable. The choices that one tends to make on a daily basis, according to the definition of fashion he/she personally believes in, all in some way or the other affect the environment and ultimately mankind. The current global population is 7 ,577,130,4001, and clothing is a basic necessity of all. While on the one hand, many individuals fight and suffers severely to fulfil this necessity of theirs, on the other hand, an average person seems to wear only 20% of the clothing in his/her closets2. Most of the remaining 80%, goes unworn, wasted and discarded, and a very small percentage of clothes are recycled and reused. While, the former (the clothes that are unworn, wasted and discarded) is said to be advocated by ‘fast fashion’, the latter (the clothes that are recycled and reused) seems to inculcate ‘sustainable practices’ in clothing, and thus highlights what ‘slow fashion’ stands for. Fast fashion is what is turning into a ‘major threat’ to our environment and mankind. It is understood by the rapid production of cheap, low-quality clothes, which do not last long. As the life expectancy of such clothes is lower than that of the clothing made out of natural fibers, waste seems to be generated, which happens to end up in landfills, oceans or burned into the atmosphere, instead of being reused and recycled. The equivalent of one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second3. 1 “ 2019 World Population by Country.” 2 019 World Population by Country, 28 2019, http://worldpopulationreview.com/ 2 (Lutz, Ashley. “People Don't Wear A Shocking Amount Of Their Clothes.” Business Insider, 18 Apr. 2013, https://www.businessinsider.in/retail/people-dont-wear-a-shocking-amount-of-their-clothes/articleshow/21164673. cms) 3 “If the Fashion Sector Continues on Its Current Trajectory, That Share of the Carbon Budget Could Jump to 26% by 2050, According to a 2017 Report from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.” Business Insider, Congressional Research Service, 5
When textile clothing ends up in landfills, the chemicals on the clothes, such as the dye, can have a deleterious effect on the environment, as the chemicals are leached into the ground. Discarded clothing made of non-biodegradable fabrics can sit in landfills for up to 200 years4. Furthermore to store the excess of waste, the need for myriad sites or additional storage places arises. Due to this, unsold clothes are burned which releases carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide and methane gas into the atmosphere. According to a World’s Resources Institute report, 1.2 billion tons of CO2 is released in the atmosphere per year by fast fashion industry5. Making a pair of jeans produces as much greenhouse gases as driving a car more than 80 miles6. (Images taken from- “ 2019 World Population by Country.” 2019 World Population by Country, 28 2019, http://worldpopulationreview.com/) In addition, research states that “it takes 2 ,700 liters of water to make one cotton shirt, enough to meet the average person’s drinking needs for two-and-a-half years” 7. https://www.businessinsider.in/ slideshows/miscellaneous/the-fashion-industry-emits-more-carbon-than-international-flights-and-maritime-shipping-combined-h ere-are-the-biggest-ways-it-impacts-the-planet-/if-the-fashion-sector-continues-on-its-current-trajectory-that-share-of-the-carbon- budget-could-jump-to-26-by-2050-according-to-a-2017-report-from-the-ellen-macarthur-foundation-/slideshow/71640850.cms 4 Reichart, Elizabeth, and Deborah Drew. “By the Numbers: The Economic, Social and Environmental Impacts of ‘Fast Fashion.’” World Resources Institute, 15 Jan. 2019, https://www.wri.org/blog/2019/01/numbers-economic-social-and-environmental-impacts-fast-fashion. 5 “T he Impact of Fast Fashion.” C odogirl.com, 3AD, https://www.codogirl.com/blogs/news/the-impact-of-fast-fashion 6 Reichart, Elizabeth, and Deborah Drew. “By the Numbers: The Economic, Social and Environmental Impacts of ‘Fast Fashion.’” W orld Resources Institute, 15 Jan. 2019, https://www.wri.org/blog/2019/01/numbers-economic-social-and-environmental-impacts-fast-fashion. 7 Reichart, Elizabeth, and Deborah Drew. “By the Numbers: The Economic, Social and Environmental Impacts of ‘Fast Fashion.’” World Resources Institute, 15 Jan. 2019, https://www.wri.org/blog/2019/01/numbers-economic-social-and-environmental-impacts-fast-fashion. 6
Conclusively, before the unethical practices associated with the fashion industry altogether destroy the environment and the planet, let’s look deeper into its impact and understand the possible solutions to this existing problem. 1.2 Aim and Objectives of the Study The aim of this study is to inform and educate consumers about the environmental impact of manufacturing sustainable and non-sustainable garments, with the main focus on the key environmental parameters- land, water and air. To achieve this understanding, firstly this study provides an overview of a certain methodology followed throughout the research process, including both primary and secondary data(see page no. 4). Then, based on the findings from the data collection and analysis, the study provides a comprehensive conclusion on whether the environmental impact of manufacturing non-sustainable garments, such as cotton is greater or the impact of manufacturing sustainable garments, such as organic cotton; this is done to achieve as well as to pass on a general understanding, on what ‘slow fashion’ and ‘fast fashion’ entails, and the factors that influence consumers choices and buying behavior, with regards to the apparel they intent to buy. Moreover, this study offers a range of strategies that can be adopted by consumers, into their consumption as well as post-purchase behavior, in order to mitigate the environmental damage induced by the fast fashion apparel industry. 7
2 Methodology Shown below is a process chart which demonstrates the overall methods that were utilized throughout the thesis process, in order to best answer the research question as well as achieve the objectives of the study. DATA COLLECTION DATA ANALYSIS Investigation of the varying methods of production, practiced by ‘fast fashion’ and ‘slow fashion’ brands, respectively. Assessment and distinguishment of the impact of manufacturing sustainable and non-sustainable garments on land, water and air. Identification of the factors that influence consumers buying behavior. Identification and description of a range of practices and strategies that can be adopted by consumers, in order to mitigate the impact of environmental damage caused by the fast fashion apparel industry. Preparation of a strong and effective discussion and a conclusion, based on the findings from data collection and analysis. Furthermore, identification of areas for future research. Figure 1. Process chart of thesis process and applied methods 8
2.1 Applied Methods for Data Collection and Analysis 2.1.1 Questionnaire Considering the irreversible harm that the apparel industry has been doing to the environment, there are several brands that have initially stepped up with an ultimate aim to benefit society and the environment. The central objective of such brands is to improve all stages of their product’s life cycle, from design and raw material production to reuse, reduce and recycling of the clothes that consumers no longer need. To get hold of and understand the point of view of such brands, regarding sustainability within the fashion industry, a questionnaire was sent to the sustainable fashion brand named ‘Wearvenn’. Wearvenn aims to minimize any undesirable impact of its product life cycle on the environment; it does this by ensuring that the resources it makes use of are utilized efficiently and with immense care, at all the stages. Furthermore, it works towards bringing sustainable fashion mainstream by encouraging the production of its apparel in environmentally sustainable manners. The aim of the questionnaire was to understand the importance of taking such initiatives, and further investigate the reasons why the brand believes that consumers often prefer not to buy sustainable clothing. One objective was also to gather data on brand’s perspective on sustainable fashion as well as fast fashion. The questions asked were centered around: ● The definition of ‘slow fashion’, that the brand personally believes in. ● The sustainable textile that is currently in the most demand. ● Reasons why the growth in the environmental problems caused due to the tremendous growth in the textile industry remains unnoticed. ● The importance and the need to reuse, reduce and recycle the clothes that are no longer needed by the people. ● The biggest misconception/myth about sustainable fashion. ● According to the brand, how does the future of India’s fashion retail industry looks like, in terms of sustainability? 9
Taking into account the answers received(see appendix A), it was understood that the advantages of slow fashion go beyond writing. In one of the answers, the brand Wearvenn clearly stated that “reusing and recycling textiles will not only save the nature but also save the lives of the people who are wearing these textiles and the lives of people who are making them”. Furthermore, it was also found out that the reasons why consumers continue to buy apparel from fast fashion brands is due to an increase in demand for variety and a reduction in their spending capacity. Also, a common misconception that exist in the minds of several people is that sustainable fashion can’t be glamorous, which brands like Wearvenn are starting to prove wrong. The brand also referred to ‘organic cotton’ as the sustainable fabric that is currently in the most demand and this is the reason why the study focuses on the environmental impact of ‘organic cotton’ in section 3.3.3, instead of particularly elaborating on any other fabric. 2.1.2 Visit A visit to the manufacturing unit of brand Bodycare was held, to acquire knowledge on the manufacturing process of a garment made from cotton and polyester fabric. The key objective encompassed an observation as well as identification of the numerous environmental footprints left behind, throughout the making process of a non-sustainable garment. Bodycare sells a wide-range of apparel, primarily underwear for men and women. Usage of polyester and cotton fabric to make undergarments is not just limited to the production process of the brand Bodycare but to myriad other fast fashion brands who specialises in making such garments. While interviewing the owner of the factory (the interview questions can be found in appendix 3), it was found out that the reason why fabrics like ‘polyester’ and ‘cotton’ are extremely common and popular among consumers as well as several apparel producers, is due to a reduction in the production costs and an improvement in the overall performance of the fabric, such as an increase in the durability, color-fastness, stretchability, washability of the garment and most importantly the versatile nature of the fabric, when polyester is blended with cotton. Since such fabrics are made available at very low prices, and offers several advantages, consumers continue to buy garments made from these fabrics, and producers continue to produce such garments, in the hope of higher profits. 10
However, some questions asked were also concentrated on how polyester and cotton fabrics are made, and about their nature. This was to understand how and what resources are utilized throughout the production of such fabrics, and to further analyse and assess its impact on the environment. As the answers to these questions were given and as more and more secondary research was initially being conducted, it was found out that the production of polyester uses several harmful chemicals, including carcinogens, which emitted to air and water untreated, can result in a significant environmental damage8. Polyester is a synthetic petroleum-based fiber, as it is made from a non-renewable carbon-intensive source, it is non-biodegradable, which means it will linger in the ecosystem for several years. Petroleum products have several uses, such as their use as a raw material to make the polyester fiber and another use is to generate the energy that is needed to manufacture the fiber. According to Forbes, “more than 70 million barrels of oil is used to make polyester each year”9. Furthermore, a study suggests that “synthetic garments are the biggest source of microplastic pollution in the oceans because up to 1900 fibers can be washed off one garment every time it is washed”10. From the visit, it was learnt that the detrimental impact of synthetic fibers, on land, water and air is potentially far greater than that of natural fibers. Similarly, the impact of manufacturing ‘cotton’, another most common fabric, on land, water and air has been thoroughly discussed in section 3.2.3. 2.1.3 Survey The focus of the survey was to gather information on: 8 F rancesca, et al. “The Environmental Impacts of Polyester.” Tortoise & Lady Grey, 30 Apr. 2019, https://www.tortoiseandladygrey.com/2016/08/29/environmental-impacts-polyester/ 9 Conca, James. “Making Climate Change Fashionable - The Garment Industry Takes On Global Warming.” Forbes, 3 Dec. 2015,h ttps://www.forbes.com/sites/jamesconca/2015/12/03/making-climate-change-fashionable-the-garment-industry-takes-on-g lobal-warming/#ab5079e79e41 10 O'Connor, Mary Catherine. “Inside the Lonely Fight against the Biggest Environmental Problem You've Never Heard Of.” The Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 27 Oct. 2014, https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/oct/27/toxic-plastic-synthetic-microscopic-oceans-microb eads-microfibers-food-chain 11
● Consumers existing knowledge and understanding of sustainable fashion, ● Factors influencing the fashion choices that consumers tend to make, ● The age-group that is most likely to buy sustainable fashion in the future, and lastly ● The location where the demand for sustainable clothing is likely to rise in the future. To answer the objectives of the survey, the survey was initially sent out to people on different social networking sites. To acquire accurate information, an objective survey was developed. The questions asked were specific, topic-centered, and an appropriate and suitable language was used, so that the respondent understands the question well. Likert questions were included so that the answers received not only centers around ‘yes’ and ‘no’ but also have the ability to generate ‘specific answers’. Demographic questions were initially added to better understand the target audience, and any question that would imply a desired answer, was avoided at all times. However, the results shown below are initially based on only 52 people who answered the survey. Therefore, there is a possibility of the actual data value being less or greater than what had been indicated by the survey conducted. When the responses received were individually analysed, the following results were obtained: - When asked “have you ever heard of the term sustainable fashion?”, only 32% of people answered with a ‘yes’, the rest were either unsure or were completely unaware of its meaning. This means that there is a big need to inform and educate consumers about the solution to the problem of environmental damage caused by their decisions made while buying clothes. - In one of the questions asked, only 13.5% of people considered sustainability as their top most priority, while others rated it 4 or even less, out of 5; which when investigated further was found to be rated the highest by teenagers(people aged between 13 and 19 years), thus it can mean that this age-group is most likely to buy sustainable apparel in future . 12
To understand why this was so, a question about the foremost reasons why consumers opt not to buy sustainable clothing was asked. And while 50% of people believe that it is due to unavailability of the sustainable apparel, 42.3% of people do not buy it because they suspect that it lacks a good design, and the rest believe that it is due to high prices and uncomfortability of the fabric. However as mentioned in the responses from the sustainable fashion brand Wearvenn, sustainable apparel ‘not being glamorous’ is the biggest misconception that exist in the minds of people. Additionally, research affirms that sustainable clothing not only offers well-being of the population but style and comfort at the same time11. - After identifying the place, the 13.5% of people who considers sustainability as their top most priority, and 30% of people who have heard about sustainable fashion and knows what it means are from, it was found out that most of them lived in the capital city of India: Delhi. Therefore, it can be said that the demand for sustainable clothing is likely to rise in Delhi, in the coming years. 2.1.4 Literature Study Throughout the thesis process, several literature studies were performed, which were focused on assessing the environmental impact of manufacturing sustainable and non-sustainable apparel, key environmental indicators of apparel supply chains, fast fashion and slow fashion brands, long-term environmental strategies for making apparel industry sustainable and most importantly consumer characteristics and purchase intentions. Analyzing and investigating material found on different sources online, provided assistance in achieving the aim of this study. Websites, scientific journals, government reports, articles, were some of the sources that were utilized to acquire accurate and detailed material on the subject. Google Scholar and ScienceDirect were the scientific databases that were used to gather information on a few of the above mentioned topics. 11 “Knowledge Center - Why Sustainable Fashion Is Not Just for Vegans and Environmentalists.” B oheco, https://boheco.org/knowledge-center/Why-Sustainable-Fashion-is-not-just-for-Vegans-and-Environmentalists/ 13
3 Literature Review 3.1 Sustainability within the textile and apparel industry As discussed briefly in the earlier sections, it is extremely vital for the textile and apparel industry to be both thriving and sustainable. If the industry is sustainable then it can be said that the clothing needs of the current generation are being met without compromising on the needs of future generations; which in the present however, is the other way round. Although, many brands are starting to build and develop a more sustainable supply chain, it can do no good until consumers understand the environmental impacts of fast fashion and benefits of slow fashion, in the first place. The lack of awareness about the impact of their purchases, is what is leading to the increasing amount of environmental problems, such as climate change and degradation of the environment. An increased knowledge on how the clothes are made, what all goes into the production process of an apparel, what are the possible consequences of such a method of production, and the need to properly dispose of clothing, can altogether help in bringing a transition in the fashion industry, by resulting in a shift towards sustainable consumerism. In this way, consumers will be encouraged to make their decisions in a more environmentally responsible way, while purchasing clothes. Slow fashion is a solution to the low-quality, low cost and high consumption model that fast fashion works on. If people begin to change their attitudes towards sustainability, and make environmental sustainability their foremost priority, then the burden on future generations in achieving sustainability, will be reduced to a great extent. To make their supply-chain sustainable, brands make use of organic or eco-friendly materials, utilizes less water and energy, which further limits the emissions to land, water and air. Furthermore, if slow fashion brands start to place importance on finding a way to communicate the environmental benefits of wearing the garment they produced, they might be able to encourage consumers to make the right purchase. 14
3.2 Fast Fashion Figure 2. Life Cycle of a Garment ( The figure shown below has been taken from-“Fashionwala – The Fast Fashion Fiasco.” I mpactWala, Apr. 2019, h ttps://impactwala.org/posts/fashionwala_the_fast_fashion_fiasco) Fast fashion can be defined as a “combination of high speed production-tracking sales with electronic tills, and just-in-time manufacturing that now makes it possible to turn a design sketch or a sample into a finished product in as little as three weeks”12. Therefore, fast fashion can be understood by high speed, large quantity and high consumption. Furthermore, it advocates the production of clothing, that is in the latest trend, with designers offering it at low prices, in order to acquire a larger market share. Because of considering the quality of the fabric as the least most important factor, designers manage to offer a low price range, even for the trendiest apparel. Change in style and the low quality of the fabric means that the cloth is not meant to last, thus it will eventually sit in landfills for several years. As consumers are not extensively charged, there exist hardly any guilt for the purchases made, and later for the disposal of the products; when it is believed that the clothing is no longer in trend and is no longer needed. Therefore, the life cycle of a fast fashion product is said to be very short. 3.2.1 Fast Fashion Brands There are many fast fashion brands that exist to meet the changing needs of customers, with regards to clothing. The most popular ones include Zara, TopShop, H&M, Forever 21 and Uniqlo13. 12 P reuit, Rachel. “FASHION AND SUSTAINABILITY: INCREASING KNOWLEDGE ABOUT SLOW FASHION THROUGH AN EDUCATIONAL MODULE .”2016, https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/173475/Preuit_colostate_0053N_13468.pdf?sequence=1&isA llowed=y 13 S hopping, Ranker. “The Best Fast Fashion Brands.” R anker, Sept. 2019, https://www.ranker.com/list/best-fast-fashion-brands/ranker-shopping 15
The ultimate objective of such brands is to offer the latest style and a variety in their clothing to the customers, at the lowest possible prices. While they do this, consumers continue to buy from them as they have little or no knowledge on the environmental damage caused by their decision to shop from these brands, and that there is an alternate option for them(slow fashion brands). 3.2.2 Consumer Characteristics and Purchase Intentions The research done states that “fast fashion consumers are pleasure seeking hedonists, who are primarily concerned with their immediate satisfaction, rather than the well-being of the planet”14. Thus, it can be said that a conventional fast fashion consumer might not be too concerned about the environment or may believe that buying sustainable products as an alternative is extremely inconvenient. Such consumers are said to care more about ‘trend’ at low prices, rather than the environment. Another type of fast fashion consumers are those who seem concerned about the environmental impact of their clothing, however, believe that now is too soon to research and worry about finding a solution, as there will always be time in the future to do so. Furthermore, some consumers may not have access to enough information on where to purchase sustainable apparel from, which means they will continue to purchase from fast fashion brands, even instead of the alternatives available. 3.2.3 Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion Due to the rapid changes in style and trend, the clothing that consumers buy, very quickly become obsolete. Even if an item of clothing was purchased only a few days ago, consumers seem to no longer want it, as it is not a part of the latest trend anymore. As fast fashion is made available to consumers at a low price point, they continue to buy new clothes and get rid off the ones that are becoming obsolete. While doing this, they show no or very little guilt as the prices at which they bought the clothes were either not so high or were extremely low. 14 P reuit, Rachel. “FASHION AND SUSTAINABILITY: INCREASING KNOWLEDGE ABOUT SLOW FASHION THROUGH AN EDUCATIONAL MODULE .”2016, https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/173475/Preuit_colostate_0053N_13468.pdf?sequence=1&isA llowed=y 16
And as mentioned in section 1.1, the waste clothes happens to end up in landfills, oceans or burned into the atmosphere, which again is dangerous to the environment. Furthermore, non-sustainable/fast fashion clothing is made of fabrics such as cotton, wool, polyester, nylon and rayon, all of which are said to have a detrimental impact on the environment15. As cotton is the most widely-used textile in the world16, this section of the study focuses on the impact of manufacturing a cotton-garment, on land, water and air. LAND- ❏ A large amounts of agrochemicals such as hazardous chemical fertilizers and pesticides are added to grow cotton crop, which contaminate and deplete the soil. ❏ The large harvesting machinery that is used to harvest cotton, reduces soil productivity, by resulting in soil compaction. ❏ A large proportion of agricultural land that is otherwise needed by local people and farmers to grow food for themselves, is taken up by cotton production. ❏ Research states that “cotton is the most pesticide intensive crop in the world”17, and these pesticides are capable of not only injuring but killing people. ❏ Through a long-term accumulation and sometimes immediate toxicity, the runoff pollutants affect biodiversity, to a great extent. 15 Issi. “Environmental Impacts.” Green Choices, Green Choices, 19 Apr. 2018, https://www.greenchoices.org/green-living/clothes/environmental-impacts 16 S ewport. “What Is Cotton Fabric: Properties, How Its Made and Where.” S ewport, Sewport, 6 Dec. 2019, https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/cotton-fabric 17 w ww.fibre2fashion.com. “Impact Of Textiles And Clothing Industry On Environment: Approach Towards Eco-Friendly Textiles.” Fibre2Fashion, https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/1709/impact-of-textiles-and-clothing-industry-on-environment 17
WATER- ❏ According to the World Resources Institute, garment manufacturing alone is the cause of 20% of the industrial water pollution, and 5 trillion litres of water is used each year for fabric dying alone, worldwide18. ❏ Research shows that “it takes 10,000 liters of water to produce 1 kilo of cotton, meaning it takes about 2,700 liters to make 1 cotton t-shirt”19. Therefore, an extensive amount of water is needed to produce and process a cotton-garment. ❏ The fertilizers that are used in the production of cotton are the most harmful to the environment, as it runs into the ground water as well as freshwater habitats, which contaminate the water bodies by creating “an oxygen-free dead zone in the water bodies”20. ❏ The hazardous waste produced by the textile industries are released into the nearby water bodies, without treating and removing the toxic content in it. The liquid effluents released are the most detrimental, as it consists of heavy metals and chemicals such as chlorine and formaldehyde(HCHO)21. When disposed it reaches to far away areas, and eventually get consumed by many people for their daily activities and drinking purposes. 18 Drew, Deborah, and Genevieve Yehounme. 5 July 2017, https://www.wri.org/blog/2017/07/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6-graphics 19 “ Tons of Water Used in Cotton Production - Globally, This Year.” T he World Counts, https://www.theworldcounts.com/counters/cotton_environmental_impacts/environmental_issues_with_cotton 20 “ What's So Bad About Cotton?” Business Ethics, 14 Nov. 2017, https://business-ethics.com/2010/08/07/1438-the-bad-side-of-cotton/ 21 www.fibre2fashion.com. “Pollution by Textile Industry - Pollutants of Water, Air, Land, Environmental Pollution By the Textile Industry.” F ibre2Fashion, https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6262/various-pollutants-released-into-environment-by-textile-indu stry 18
AIR- ❏ The textile industry alone is responsible for releasing a large amount of toxic gas into the atmosphere. Research shows that several hazardous pollutants are generated into the atmosphere, starting from the manufacturing process of a garment, to when it is no longer needed by consumers, and thus is disposed; such pollutants include sulphur dioxide, nitrogen gas and Suspended Particulate Matter(SPM)22. Such toxic gases increases the global greenhouse gas emissions, and are said to be extremely harmful for the environment, mankind as well as plants and animals. 3.3 Slow Fashion Figure 3. The Slow Fashion Process (taken from: Preuit, Rachel. “FASHION AND SUSTAINABILITY: INCREASING KNOWLEDGE ABOUT SLOW FASHION THROUGH AN EDUCATIONAL MODULE .”2016, https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/173475/Preuit_colostate_0053N_13468.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y) Production of better-quality garments, that will not only last longer but can be easily reused and recycled, is the basic model that slow fashion operates on. It encourages ‘zero waste’, and emphasizes on slower production, rather than obsessing with speed over quality. The term ‘slow’ can be defined as considerate, calm, and pensive. Researchers believe that following and adapting to a slower production process, can help to increase life expectancy and living standards of people23. Furthermore, it can result in an increase in productivity in the long run. It aims to increase consumer awareness about their individual impact on the environment, and further encourages them to reflect and reconnect differently with the clothing they wear, allowing an emotional connection to form between consumers and the garments they tend to purchase. 22 www.fibre2fashion.com. “Pollution by Textile Industry - Pollutants of Water, Air, Land, Environmental Pollution By the Textile Industry.” Fibre2Fashion, https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6262/various-pollutants-released-into-environment-by-textile-indu stry 23 Preuit, Rachel. “FASHION AND SUSTAINABILITY: INCREASING KNOWLEDGE ABOUT SLOW FASHION THROUGH AN EDUCATIONAL MODULE .”2016, https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/173475/Preuit_colostate_0053N_13468.pdf?sequence=1&isA llowed=y 19
3.3.1 Slow Fashion Brands Upasana, No Nasties, 11:11, Wearvenn and many more brands, aim towards making the textile industry sustainable, by encouraging the production of clothes in an ‘environmentally friendly manner’24. The central objective of these brands is to reduce their carbon footprint on the planet, by emphasizing on higher quality, slower production, creation of apparel that have a long life cycle, and can be further reused and recycled when no longer needed. These brands are beginning to prove that one doesn’t need to sacrifice the latest trend and style for the sake of saving the planet. 3.3.2 Consumer Characteristics and Purchase Intentions Figure 4. Sustainable Fashion Consumption ( taken from Hasanspahic, Maida. Sustainable Fashion. Aug. 2018, http://lup.lub.lu.se/luur/download?func=downloadFile&recordOId=8879292&fileOId=8879299) Consumers who tend to buy sustainable clothing, are said to be more emotionally connected with the clothing they purchase, and seem to enjoy the approach based on the increasing awareness and responsibility, rather than the one revolving around constant consumption25. Slow fashion consumers emphasize greatly on quality and fit of the garment, which is a major contrast from consumers who buy from fast fashion brands, and consider quantity and variety as their top most priority. Furthermore, these consumers keep the basic knowledge and understanding of how the garment they are wearing was produced, and are increasingly considerate of the impact of their purchases. Thus, they are also likely to wear the garments purchased for a longer period of time, take care of it, and later choose to recycle the product, instead of disposing it. As throughout the production and post-production process, an emphasis on slower production and consumption was put, overproduction and waste generated is expected to be minimal; which means there will be little impact on the environment and mankind. 24 Rai, Mridu. “India's Top 10 Sustainable Fashion Brands.” Culture Trip, The Culture Trip, 19 Mar. 2018, https://theculturetrip.com/asia/india/articles/indias-top-10-sustainable-fashion-brands/ 25 P reuit, Rachel. “FASHION AND SUSTAINABILITY: INCREASING KNOWLEDGE ABOUT SLOW FASHION THROUGH AN EDUCATIONAL MODULE .”2016, https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/173475/Preuit_colostate_0053N_13468.pdf?sequence=1&isA llowed=y 20
3.3.3 Environmental Impact of Slow Fashion Slow fashion has minimal impact on the environment; this is the reason why it is initially encouraged and advocated by several brands. The model of slow fashion is more involved and interconnected than that of fast fashion. A greater emphasis is placed on inspecting and keeping a clear check on the quality of the fabric the garment is supposed to be made of. Furthermore, brands that specialize in making sustainable clothing makes sure that the style of the garment is suitable, and will last for several years to come. A slower as well as smaller supply-chain is encouraged, due to which the need to ship the products across the world, decreases. This further lessens the footprints of slow fashion products. Moreover, as discussed in the earlier section, consumers who buy slow fashion are extremely considerate about the impact of their purchase decisions, and are likely to make the right choices, by investing not only in the garment but also in its production process. As consumers tend to form an emotional connection with the garment they wear , they begin to pay a great deal of attention on the quality, rather than the quantity, and wear their clothes for a longer period of time, and dispose of less. For instance, ‘organic cotton’ is nothing but a name given to cotton that has been grown without the use of hazardous pesticides and fertilizers. Research suggests that: “this organic cotton is 4 6 percent less harmful to global warming, there’s 70 percent less acidification of land and water, the potential for soil erosion drops 26 percent, surface and groundwater use falls 91 percent and demand for energy could go down by as much as 62 percent26.” Similarly, fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic linen, etc.are sustainable fabrics that have the least impact on the environment. Conclusively, as the impact of slow fashion on land, water, and air is so minimal, slow fashion is proven to be an extremely suitable as well as a beneficial alternative for what fast fashion has to offer. 26 D onaldson, Tara. “Report: The Truth About Organic Cotton and Its Impacts.” Sourcing Journal, Sourcing Journal, 26 June 2017, https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/raw-materials/report-truth-organic-cotton-impacts-68512/ 21
4 Conclusion Figure 5. 3-Nested-Dependencies Model (taken from Willard, Bob. “3 Sustainability Models.” Sustainability Advantage, Bob Willard Https://Sustainabilityadvantage.com/Wp-Content/Uploads/2018/11/SustAdvLogoblue-Fullsize-300x138.Png, 9 May 2015, h ttps://sustainabilityadvantage.com/2010/07/20/3-sustainability-models/) Shown above is 3-Nested-Dependencies Model, which reflects what is called a ‘co-dependent’ reality. It shows that the economy is a smaller section/part of a society, and society is further a subsidiary of the environment. This means that without the presence of fresh air, food, clean water, fertile soil and other natural resources, the society as well the economy won’t be able to survive. Therefore to conclude, individuals need to start changing their priorities, and be more considerate towards the impact of their purchases, before it gets too late. Even one small step can make a big impact! Buy less, choose well! 4.1 Future Research This study could be extended in several ways, to gain additional information. Firstly, this study was mainly centered around the benefits of buying slow fashion, and the environmental impact of fast fashion. However, more information about consumers existing knowledge and understanding of sustainable fashion could be found out, by surveying a larger part of the target audience. Secondly, instead of just sending the questionnaire to the sustainable fashion brand Wearvenn, via mail, a slow fashion store could be visited, to see how the clothing is being manufactured, in order to draw a comparison with the process of manufacturing a non-sustainable garment. 22
List of References 1. Conca, James. “Making Climate Change Fashionable - The Garment Industry Takes On Global Warming.” Forbes, 3 Dec. 2015,https://www.forbes.com/sites/jamesconca/2015/12/03/making-climate-change-fashionable-the-garme nt-industry-takes-on-global-warming/#ab5079e79e41 2. Donaldson, Tara. “Report: The Truth About Organic Cotton and Its Impacts.” Sourcing Journal, Sourcing Journal, 26 June 2017, https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/raw-materials/report-truth-organic-cotton-impacts-68512/ 3. D rew, Deborah, and Genevieve Yehounme. 5 July 2017, https://www.wri.org/blog/2017/07/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6-graphics 4. F rancesca, et al. “The Environmental Impacts of Polyester.” Tortoise & Lady Grey, 30 Apr. 2019, https://www.tortoiseandladygrey.com/2016/08/29/environmental-impacts-polyester/ 5. “If the Fashion Sector Continues on Its Current Trajectory, That Share of the Carbon Budget Could Jump to 26% by 2050, According to a 2017 Report from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.” Business Insider, Congressional Research Service, https://www.businessinsider.in/slideshows/miscellaneous/the-fashion-industry-emits-more-car bon-than-international-flights-and-maritime-shipping-combined-here-are-the-biggest-ways-it-i mpacts-the-planet-/if-the-fashion-sector-continues-on-its-current-trajectory-that-share-of-the-c arbon-budget-could-jump-to-26-by-2050-according-to-a-2017-report-from-the-ellen-macarthur- foundation-/slideshow/71640850.cms 6. I ssi. “Environmental Impacts.” G reen Choices, Green Choices, 19 Apr. 2018, https://www.greenchoices.org/green-living/clothes/environmental-impacts 7. “Knowledge Center - Why Sustainable Fashion Is Not Just for Vegans and Environmentalists.” Boheco, https://boheco.org/knowledge-center/Why-Sustainable-Fashion-is-not-just-for-Vegans-and-Env ironmentalists/ 8. Lutz, Ashley. “People Don't Wear A Shocking Amount Of Their Clothes.” Business Insider, 18 Apr. 2013, https://www.businessinsider.in/retail/people-dont-wear-a-shocking-amount-of-their-clothes/art icleshow/21164673.cms 9. O'Connor, Mary Catherine. “Inside the Lonely Fight against the Biggest Environmental Problem You've Never Heard Of.” T he Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 27 Oct. 2014, https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/oct/27/toxic-plastic-synthetic-micros copic-oceans-microbeads-microfibers-food-chain 10. Preuit, Rachel. “FASHION AND SUSTAINABILITY: INCREASING KNOWLEDGE ABOUT SLOW FASHION THROUGH AN EDUCATIONAL MODULE .”2016, https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/173475/Preuit_colostate_0053N_13468.p df?sequence=1&isAllowed=y 11. Rai, Mridu. “India's Top 10 Sustainable Fashion Brands.” Culture Trip, The Culture Trip, 19 Mar. 2018, h ttps://theculturetrip.com/asia/india/articles/indias-top-10-sustainable-fashion-brands/ 23
12. Reichart, Elizabeth, and Deborah Drew. “By the Numbers: The Economic, Social and Environmental Impacts of ‘Fast Fashion.’” W orld Resources Institute, 15 Jan. 2019, https://www.wri.org/blog/2019/01/numbers-economic-social-and-environmental-impacts-fast-f ashion. 13. Sewport. “What Is Cotton Fabric: Properties, How Its Made and Where.” Sewport, Sewport, 6 Dec. 2019, h ttps://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/cotton-fabric 14. Shopping, Ranker. “The Best Fast Fashion Brands.” Ranker, Sept. 2019, https://www.ranker.com/list/best-fast-fashion-brands/ranker-shopping 15. “T he Impact of Fast Fashion.” C odogirl.com, 3AD, https://www.codogirl.com/blogs/news/the-impact-of-fast-fashion 16. “Tons of Water Used in Cotton Production - Globally, This Year.” T he World Counts, https://www.theworldcounts.com/counters/cotton_environmental_impacts/environmental_iss ues_with_cotton 17. “What's So Bad About Cotton?” Business Ethics, 14 Nov. 2017, https://business-ethics.com/2010/08/07/1438-the-bad-side-of-cotton/ 18. www.fibre2fashion.com. “Impact Of Textiles And Clothing Industry On Environment: Approach Towards Eco-Friendly Textiles.” Fibre2Fashion, https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/1709/impact-of-textiles-and-clothing-industry- on-environment 19. “ 2 019 World Population by Country.” 2 019 World Population by Country, 28 2019, http://worldpopulationreview.com/ Images and Figures- 20. “ 2 019 World Population by Country.” 2019 World Population by Country, 28 2019, http://worldpopulationreview.com/ 21. “Fashionwala – The Fast Fashion Fiasco.” I mpactWala, Apr. 2019, https://impactwala.org/posts/fashionwala_the_fast_fashion_fiasco 22. Preuit, Rachel. “FASHION AND SUSTAINABILITY: INCREASING KNOWLEDGE ABOUT SLOW FASHION THROUGH AN EDUCATIONAL MODULE .”2016, https://mountainscholar.org/bitstream/handle/10217/173475/Preuit_colostate_0053N_13468.p df?sequence=1&isAllowed=y 23. Hasanspahic, Maida. Sustainable Fashion. Aug. 2018, http://lup.lub.lu.se/luur/download?func=downloadFile&recordOId=8879292&fileOId=8879299 24. Willard, Bob. “3 Sustainability Models.” S ustainability Advantage, Bob Willard Https://Sustainabilityadvantage.com/Wp-Content/Uploads/2018/11/SustAdvLogoblue-Fullsize-300x138.P ng, 9 May 2015, https://sustainabilityadvantage.com/2010/07/20/3-sustainability-models/ 24
Appendices Appendix 1- Questionnaire sent to the sustainable fashion brand- Wearvenn 25
Appendix 2-Photos from the visit to the manufacturing unit of the brand- Bodycare Appendix 3- Interview Questions ● What type of fabrics are used in manufacturing the garments you specialize in making? Why do you use these fabrics? ● How is the garment made?(basically to understand the production process) ● What all machines and inventories are used in your production process? ● Which chemicals are used throughout the making of the garment? Why are these used? ● What is being done to the waste generated?How and where is it disposed?(treatment and discharge of effluents) ● What are the emissions added to land, water and air? 26
Appendix 4- Survey responses 27
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