Glossery of terms

Glossary Of TermsPriya-Yasho RambaranN01160737BSPA-110-0NAProfessional Skin CareEsthetician/Spa Management Diploma ProgramMarisa HannanMarch 10,2017

Introduction The beauty and wellness industry is ever-changing, techniques that were practised andingredients that were used in the 1800’s are not looked highly upon by our society today. Withnew trends and products popping up everywhere in stores and on social media, it can be hard tokeep up. This is why its important stay in touch with new techniques, whilst having theknowledge of older ones. The glossary of terms can be used as a guide for myself and otheraspiring aestheticians that are trying to learn, grow and remain up to date with our industry. It is important that as students in an aesthetics program that we are obtaining the mostknowledge for the specific field that we would like to go into. Since I personally would like topursue a career in medical aesthetics, my glossary of terms is focused more towards the skin/hairand mechanics(facial machines) rather than on cosmetics. Long term, I would like to gain enough knowledge that I am fully comfortable talkingabout specific terms without having to reference a textbook. When future clients tell me abouttheir concerns and have questions, I want to be able to answer them without hesitation. Its betterthat a client receives education from you, than unreliable blogs on the internet. However, shortterm I would like to gain enough knowledge on not only the techniques and procedures, but alsoon specific terms that may help me personally in my day to day life. An example of this would befree radicals and antioxidants. I would also like to have an advantage over my courses thissemester and throughout the program. Knowing these terms in advance may help me when theyare taught in the future because I would already have an understanding of the topic. Terms will be listed under a subcategory that it coincides with in order to allow theorganization one would typically find in a traditional glossary. For example, the termmicrodermabrasion will be found under the subcategory of “advanced topics and treatments”,just as the term deincrustation will be found under the subcategory “facial machines”. Theglossary will be focused more on the skin and treatments rather than on cosmetics andingredients. For reference, these terms can be found in the Milady standard fundamentals ofaesthetics textbook under the categories labeled “esthetics” and “skin sciences”.In thisassignment I will be providing definitions, contraindications, background information andbusiness aspects for most terms in order to provide the maximum amount of knowledge.

Hair Removal1) Epilation• Process of temporarily removing hair by breaking contact between the bulb and the papilla.• This method pulls the hair out from the root, rather than removing it at the skins surface.• The three main methods of epilation include: 1. Tweezing - This is the method of removing hairs one by one, the tweezing process is slower but can be used instead of wax on those who have sensitized skin. 2. Treading- Originating in India and the Middle East, threading is done by rolling a twisted cotton string about 60-75 Cm along the skins surface. The hair gets caught between the two sides of the string and gets lifted out of the hair follicle. This method can cause some irritation and redness, however its a lot less abrasive than waxing and a lot faster than tweezing, as it pulls out multiple hairs at the same time. 3. Waxing- This is the most common form of epilation. Made primarily of resins and beeswax, it can be applied as both hard and soft wax. The main benefit of waxing is that it removes hair for a longer period of time and skin generally feels smoother afterwards. Waxing also removes more hair at a time than the other two methods discussed. However, waxing is the most likely form of epilation to cause sensitization and irritation to the skin.• Contraindications to epilation include: • Open wounds or infected skin • Irritation or sensitized skin • Sunburns • Recent scar tissue • Warts or other STI’s (cross contamination)

• It’s important that a licensed esthetician performs these services or the client may get burned. Skin may also be ripped/cut from improper waxing and threading methods.2) Sugaring-• A more natural ancient form of hair removal- dates back to the Egyptians• Can be used on more sensitized skin types because it only adheres to the hair and not the skin.• It is better for sensitized skin because it can be removed in the direction of hair growth, making it less irritating than traditional wax.• Hair can be removed at a much shorter length ( 1.5-3 millimetres as opposed to 1/2 inch)• This form of waxing is more hygienic because the product is only used for one client and then thrown out.• The mixture can be used multiple times until the hair in the sugar mixture interferes with the results.• The two methods of sugaring include • Hand Method- This method can be applied at both room temperature or warmed up. The product is applied against the direction of hair growth and ripped off in the direction of hair growth using a thick application of wax (similar to hard wax). • Spatula Method- This method can be applied while warm and it is applied with the direction of the hair growth and removed in the direction against the hair growth (similar to soft wax). With the spatula method the practitioner would use a strip to remove the wax.• As with all waxing methods, sugaring should not be done if the client has any open wounds, acne or any kind of irritation on the skin.3) Depilation• Technique of temporarily removing hair at the skins surface through physical or chemical means.• Does not remove hair beneath the skins surface, nor does it disturb the hair follicle.• Physical depilation dates as far back as 30,000 BC when sharp pieces of flint was used as a shaving device.• Now of days, we use razors which consist of multiple thin blades to cut hair at the skins surface.• This process can irritate the skin and cause razor bumps/burns causing ingrown hairs (pseudofolliculitis).• This can be treated by simply changing the direction of shaving.• Chemical depilation works by expanding the hair, breaking down the cystine and protein bonds causing the hair to become weak and break off.

• The first chemical depilatory was called rhumba and dates back to 4,000-3,000 BC.• Rhumba was a concoction of harsh chemicals such as sodium hydroxide, thioglycolic acid or calcium thioglycolate.• This process can oftentimes be irritating and have short term results. Facial Massage4) Massage• Ancient therapeutic method of relaxation• Manual or mechanical manipulation by kneading/rubbing to stimulate circulation and metabolism.• There are many benefits of a massage, some examples include • Relaxation of body and facial muscles • Deeper absorption of products • Stimulates blood and lymph circulation • Improves muscle tone • Cleanses skin of impurities • Removes dead skin cells and softens sebum • Provides a sense of well-being• A massage may be performed at any time within a facial and typically lasts from 10-15 minutes• Note: Estheticians are not licensed to do deep tissue messages, over stimulation and too much pressure on the face can weaken elastin and break down elasticity.• Massages must be performed from muscle insertion ( movable attachment- where the muscles are attached to another muscle, or a movable bone/joint etc) to origin ( immovable section). Knowing the correct direction of massage will diminish the risk of breaking down tissue and causing premature aging.• Contraindications to massages include: • Contagious disease • Inflamed acne • Sunburn • Sensitive skin • Clients who have severe uncontrolled hypertension• Estethicans should only perform massages on the face, neck, shoulders and décolleté, full body massages should only be performed by a licensed message therapist.5) Acupressure• Invented over 5,000 years ago in Asia• Technique of applying pressure to certain pressure points on the body in order to release tension and pain, restore balance and stimulate chi ( the life force and energy which sets the living apart from the dead)

• The common form of acupressure in facial treatments performed by estethicans is called a pressure point massage, this is similar to traditional acupressure, however each pressure point is held for up to 3-6 seconds and repeated 3-6 times. Unlike traditional acupressure massages, pressure point massages don't always follow the acupressure mederians. During a pressure point massage, the practitioner will also refer to the motor points of the body.• Contraindications of acupressure include: • Cancer • Cardiovascular conditions • Pregnancy • Ulcers • Open wounds• Acupressure and pressure point massages are very important in our industry when performing a facial because it helps to further relax the client. Its also said to help with swelling,fine lines and collagen production. Facial Machines6) Desincrustation-• A technique that uses a galvanic machine to facilitate deep cleansing by infusing negative pH into the skin.• With galvanic currents, chemical deincrustation liquefies sebum and other debris that are lodged into the skins surface.• An alkaline-based, electronegative solution is placed onto the clients skin, this solution helps soften follicles for deeper cleansing.• The client holds a positive electrode, conducting positive polarity and the aesthetician will run a negative electrode, conducting negative polarity along the clients skin.• Through this, a chemical reaction is created that turns sebum into soap (saponification).• Saponification is made from fat and Iye (sodium hydroxide) and helps soften skin whilst dissolving oils and clearing debris.• Iye is created when electrical currents interact with sodium chloride in the skin.• This treatment is helpful for those who have acne prone/oily skin• Since an electrical current is being used, its recommend that those with the following don't partake in this treatment: • Pace makers • Jewelry • Metal plates in the body • Epilepsy • Pregnancy etc.• Its important that an aesthetician knows what he/she is doing because uneducated practitioners can cause health problems or perhaps even death if they are unaware of the contraindications/ risks.

Advanced Topics and Treatments7) Microdermabrasion• Physical exfoliation performed with a machine that provides similar results to an AHA peel, however the results are more superficial.• Micro crystals made up of corundum powder or aluminum oxide is sprayed onto the clients face while a vacuum (similar to those seen in a dentist office) sucks the crystals back up.• Other forms of microdermabrasion don't use the vacuum, this is seen to be a lot less abrasive.• Recently, there has been machines with diamond tips, removing the need for micro-crystals all together.• Treatments usually last up to 30 minutes long and can be done with or without a facial.• Afterwards, a nourishing and hydrating mask is applied to the skin in order to replenish the nutrients.• Benefits of microdermabrasion include: • Diminishing the appearance of sun damage • Diminishing pigmentation • Diminishing fine lines and wrinkles • Combating open/closed comedones • Reducing the appearance of enlarged pores• If the aesthetician performing the treatment isn’t trained correctly, they can cause drastic irritation to the skin, resulting in sensitization as well as hyper and hypo pigmentation.• Contraindications to microdermabrasion include: • Predisposition to pigmentation • Sensitive or couperous skin • Acne • Open wounds• Antioxidants and SPF should be used at all times in order to prolong the results of the treatment.• Sun exposure should be avoided for up to seven days after this treatment.8) Exfoliation• Process of removing dead skin cells from the stratum corneum• Benefits include • Softer and smoother skin • Deep penetration of products • Decongested pores and follicles

• Increased cell turnover rate and blood flow • Makeup application is smoother and more even• Exfoliation is the most beneficial for those with • Oily/acne prone skin • Dry or dehydrated skin with cell buildup and flaking • Dull skin with lots of cell buildup, making it appear grey in colour• Two main types of exfoliation methods include 1. Mechanical Exfoliation- Method of physically removing dead skin cells from the skins surface. Examples include scrubs and brushes. Mechanical exfoliation should be done 2-3 times a week and should be avoided by those who have sensitized or irritated skin. 2. Chemical Exfoliation- More aggressive method of removing dead skin cells and desmosomes through the use of chemicals such as AHA’s. Chemical exfoliation removes dead skin cells deeper and more effectively than mechanical exfoliation. Clients who receive chemical exfoliation treatments by an esthetician must avoid sun exposure for up to seven days and wear lots of SPF. Contraindications of chemical exfoliation include botox/fillers, pregnancy/ hyper-pigmentation and inflamed skin.• The use of any form of exfoliation should stop if one experiences inflamed, red or tingling skin.• Exfoliation is very important in our industry because it allows clients to receive better results than they would using at home products. It also heightens the cell turn over rate, blood flow and circulation, allowing clients to benefit from youthful looking skin.9) The Cell Renewal Factor (CRF)• Also known as the cell turnover rate.• This refers to the time that it takes mitosis to occur and migrate from the dermis to the epidermis.Average rate according to age: • Babies- 14 days • Teenagers- 21-28 days • Adults- 28-42 days • Elderly(50+)- 42-84 days *this process slows down with age

CRF is important when it comes to youthful skin, the faster mitosis occurs, the younger your skinappears.CRF may be affected by different factors such as: • Genetics • Lifestyle • Medical history • Exfoliation and skin care routine • Environment• Knowledge of the cell renewal factor is important in the aesthetics industry because the rate changes for each age group. Disorder and Diseases of the skin10) Hyper-pigmentation• Characterized by the appearance of dark spots on skin.• Caused by overproduction of pigment/melanin in the skin.• Commonly seen in ethnic skin, however it can be seen in all levels of the Fitzpatrick scale.• Commonly seen in middle-aged to elderly skin, however it can be seen in younger ages as well.• Can be caused by sun exposure, acne, medications and skin damage.• Three main types of hyper-pigmentation include 1. Post-Inflammatory hyperpigmentation- Occurs after an injury to the skin due to acne, burns, excessive friction etc. It usually responds well to treatment and fades on its own, however it can take months for the skin to regenerate and show results. 2. Lentigines- Commonly seen as freckled spots in 90% of lighter skin tones over the age of 60. Lentigines (also known as liver or age spots) are often the result of UV exposure. 3. Melasma- Commonly caused by hormonal changes due to pregnancy or the use of birth control. Melasma will fade on its own overtime, however the affects can be worsened by UV exposure.• Hyper pigmentation can be treated through topical brightening ointments such as kojic acid, mulberry and citrus as well as chemical exfoliation such as AHA’s and BHA’s.

• Prevention is key, estheicans must always educate their clients on the use of sunscreen and an excellent skincare regime.11) Hypo-pigmentation• Characterized by the lightening of skin.• Caused by reduction of normal amounts of melanin production in the skin.• Can be seen in all levels of the Fitzpatrick scale .• Can be caused by disorders or any trauma to the skin such as acne and burns.• Two main types of hypopigmenation include 1. Albinism- Congenital leukoderma or albinism is a rare genetic disorder that causes a lack of pigmentation throughout the entire body. Albinism has no cure and a person with albinism will not have pigmentation in their eyes, hair or skin. They are very sensitive to sun exposure and without any melanin to protect them, they are at high risk of skin cancer and premature aging. So it is very important that those with albinism wear sunscreen at all times when exposed to the sun. 2. Vitiligo- Believed to be an autoimmune disorder causing melanocytes to stop the production of melanin. Vitiligo is characterized by the absence of pigmentation in irregular patches around the body. This disease can occur at any age and symptoms can be worsened naturally with time and sun exposure.• Treatments include topical ointments, laser treatments and even bleaching of the non-affected areas in order to blend the lightened skin with the rest of the body.• SPF and sunscreen is very important for those who are experiencing hypopigmentation because the lack of melanin in the skin allows UV rays to penetrate deep into the body, causing skin cancer and other complications.12) Keratosis Pilaris• Characterized by red texturized bumps on the cheeks, upper arms, thighs and buttocks.• Caused by cellular impaction around the hair follicles(blocked follicles).• Commonly seen in children and adolescents but can be seen in any age group.• There is no cure but affects can be minimized by daily exfoliation.

• Over exposure to the sun may worsen the affects, so clients must always wear SPF, especially over the affected areas.• Chemical peels that contain lactic acid, salicylic acid and retinol may be used to diminish the appearance.• Chemical peels and other treatments performed by an estehtican work by getting rid of dead skin deeper than a traditional physical exfoliation would. Skin Care Products: Chemistry13) Free Radicals• Oxygen-containing molecules that are aggressive and unstable because they have lost an election.• Since they are unpaired and need another electron to become neutral, they steal electrons from other molecules, thus damaging the cells around them.• Also known as super oxidizers, meaning that they cause oxidation and attack organic substances such as proteins. The result of this is damaged proteins or other cells. One free radical will oxidize and destroy millions of organic compounds around it whilst causing more free radicals.• Can be caused by the sun, pollution, smoking etc• Free radicals cause premature aging, and increases sensitivity, dryness and age spots by hardening collagen and elastin in the skin.• Also causes damage to RNA,DNA (resulting in cancer) and cell membranes as well as normal cellular metabolism systems.• Antioxidants help fight free radicals and prevent any future damage. • Some antioxidants include: • Vitamin C- Strengthens white blood cells and immune system(for collagen). • Vitamin E- Protect skin from aging and sun damage. • DMAE(dimethylaminoethanol)- Boosts affects of other antioxidants and increases chemicals that control muscle tone, improving saggy skin.• Its important to know about free radicals as an aesthetician because you want to be able to educate your clients on their skin care and skin health. Its better that they learn about their skin from you than non-credible sources online. This also can help when improving sales because you can recommend products with antioxidants to your clients.

14) Antioxidant• Composed of vitamins, animo acids and other natural substances that help fight free radicals and other damaging environmental affects.• Antioxidants can be ingested orally(fruits,vitamins etc) as well as used topically (serums).• Topical antioxidants help fight free radicals before they even have a chance to attach to the cells, thus they are better for prevention.• Antioxidants can also be added to cosmetics and skin care because they inhibit oxidization reactions, stopping products from going bad.• As people age, they produce more free radicals and less antioxidants.• Since not everyone gets their recommend fruits and veggies everyday, most people don't have a good antioxidant to free radical ratio. This is where products and vitamins come into play.• Some antioxidants include: • Vitamin C- Strengthens white blood cells and immune system(for collagen). • Vitamin E- Protect skin from aging and sun damage. • DMAE(dimethylaminoethanol)- Boosts affects of other antioxidants and increases chemicals that control muscle tone, improving saggy skin • Alpha lipoic acid- Water and oil soluble compound that increases cellular metabolism and boosts the affects of other antioxidants. Also reduces redness and inflammation in the skin.• Antioxidants and free radicals go hand in hand, and just as its important to educate your clients on free radicals, you must educate them on antioxidants. By doing so you are more likely to build a relationship where they trust you and will buy products from you. Its also important to have lots of knowledge on antioxidants because when picking products for your client during the treatment and after, you don't want to pick useless products that wont provide results for their concern. Facial Techniques15) Extractions-• Technique of physically removing comedones, papules, pustules and other impurities from the skin.• Helps reduce the appears of pores because there is no debris clogging them.• Before performing extractions, the skin must be steamed and exfoliated in order to allow follicles to open up.• The three methods used for extractions include:

1. Covering ones finger in dampened cloth “gloves” in order to perform the extraction with their fingertips. 2. By the use of metal tools called comedone extractors, which open up comedones and sebaceous filaments. 3. Using cotton swabs that imitate fingertips in order to perform hard to reach extractions (side of nose).• Acne-prone and oily skin types will benefit from extractions, however anyone with clogged follicles can receive them.• Afterwards, the esthetician apply a calming, cooling mask to the skin as well as antibacterial products or high-frequency waves in order to kill any bacteria.• Extractions are important when it comes to being an aesthetician because commonly clients will perform them incorrectly at home, causing the bacteria to go into the skin rather than out. This can cause future breakouts.• By allowing an aesthetician or another trained professional to perform extractions, clients can be sure that without these impurities going back into the skin, they will begin to show a vast improvement.

Conclusion The glossary of terms assignment has taught me a lot about skin care and what I must doto preserve youthful skin, free of wrinkles and other conditions. It has also taught me about theconsequences of slacking when it comes to skin care. For example, before this assignment Iknew that SPF was important, however I didn’t realize the real consequences of not wearing it(pigmentation). Since I’m a child of mixed background (levels two and five) I neglected to wearSPF because I never got burnt. After completing my glossary of terms, SPF is going to be a hugepriority when it comes to my skin care regime. This also applies to terms such as free radicals, Ialways heard about all the negative affects free radicals had on the skin, but I never really payedattention or looked into it until this assignment. I also didn’t know how important antioxidantswere for the skin, or even that vitamins were antioxidants. The glossary of terms has given me the confidence to educate others on a broad variety oftopics that range from hair removal to facial techniques and more. Theres a huge differencebetween memorizing and understanding. After completing this assignment and summarizingeverything in my own words, I feel as though I understand and will remember these terms for therest of my career. A lot of the terms I listed and explained were focused more on the contraindications,benefits and just the general explanation. When needed, I gave a little bit of backgroundinformation if the term had an extensive cultural history (hair removal techniques). Its interestingto see where all of our modern day techniques come from and how innovative humans have beenfor hundreds of years. A lot of beauty standards change, however preserving the youthfulfeminine look is something that has been sought after for years. I am grateful that now of dayswith our advanced technology and understanding of the skin, we can take precautions inpreventing the aging of our skin (antioxidants and facial treatments). I feel as though people look at the word esthetics or aesthetician and think that its aboutsuperficial beauty. And even though in a way it is, because we work on the skin, its so muchmore than that. Estheticans need to have an understanding of whats going on beneath the surfaceof the skin. We need to understand the chemistry and reactions different products have on theskin. But above all, aestheticians make people feel beautiful. This is so much more importantthan just looking beautiful and the superficial aspect of it. From this assignment I learned about alot of different diseases and disorders of the skin. The outer appearance affects the innerappearance and how people perceive themselves, it affects self esteem and well being. I’m sograteful that as aestheticians we have the power to make someone feel better about who they are.

We live in a very vain world and giving someone the boxing gloves they need to fight back iswhat makes this industry so rewarding to me. I’m thankful for this assignment because before completing it, I was very oblivious to thevariety of different disorders, treatments, precautions (Etc) that come along with being anaesthetician. I hope that my glossary of terms helps others in this industry when it comes tohaving a deeper understanding of these topics. I hope that I explained them in such a way that itis easy to follow and understand. But most of all, I hope my terms are as interesting to others asthey were to me. And that I am able to get others as excited as I am to advance my learning andcareer in this industry.

Citation• Wojak, T. (2011, January 05). The Evolution of Hair Removal. Retrieved March 08, 2017, from http://www.skininc.com/treatments/hairremoval/ 112940584.html• Allison, R. (2016, March 30). Body Smooth: Tackling Body Skin Challenges. Retrieved March 08, 2017, from http://www.skininc.com/ treatments/body/Body-Smooth-Tackling-Body-Skin- Challenges-374067441.html• Gerson, J. (2013). Milady standard esthetics: fundamentals. Australia: Cengage Learning.mber, M. G. (2013, October 15).• Zoe Draelos, MD, and Peter T. Pugliese, MD. (2011, June 28). Microdermabrasion and Dermabrasion. Retrieved March 09, 2017, from http://www.skininc.com/treatments/equipment/124660969.html• Imber, M. G. (2013, October 15). Antioxidants, Free Radicals and Skin Care. Retrieved March 09, 2017, from http://www.skininc.com/ skinscience/ingredients/Antioxidants-Free-Radicals-and-Skin- Care-227888041.html