Classic Motorcycle Mechanics

Dropping the M14 x 1.25 split die into my new tailstock die holder. Fitting the No. 3 Morse taper of the arbour into the tailstock of my lathe. Gently doing up the adjuster grub screw on the die holder with a hex driver. My original home-brewed tailstock die Sliding the die holder on to the arbour. holder wasn’t big enough for such a size of die, so had this new tool not been Turning the chuck with one hand while the other cuts the thread with the tommy available, I would have had to screw cut it bar handle of the tool… at least it would if it didn’t have a camera in it! on the lathe. I inserted the main mandrel in the No.3 Morse taper of my tailstock. I dropped the die into the suitable holder and gently did up the centre grub screw with the supplied Allen key until it just centred the die. I then did up the outer two grub screws until they just touched the pips in the die before tightening up the centre screw. If I had wanted the thread not to be full depth, I would not have done up the outer two screws and then the centre screw would have splayed the die open. The depth of cut of the tapped hole can’t be adjusted with a normal tap, but the cut depth of a split die can be controlled by the screws in the die stock. It isn’t often I adjust the thread depth, but if I was making a new part for a bike where I knew that the female thread was worn, I might make the part a few thou bigger than the nominal size and open the die up a bit to take up the wear. As is more usual, I machined the part to an exact 14mm diameter and cut a lead-in chamfer on the end for the die. I applied tapping fluid to the shaft I was threading and then cut the thread in the usual manner – half a turn forward and then reverse it just enough to break off the swarf. The new tool made a really good job of keeping the die nice and perpendicular to the shaft for the full length and would have maintained the position for a very long thread, were it required. This is a well-made, good value for money product I would heartily recommend. cmm  Chronos.ltd.uk or just google Chronos Tools www.classicmechanics.com / 51

Workshop I masked up a transition WORDS AND PICS: RALPH FERRAND for the yellow on the spare Deep tank using the cheaper fine-line tape and sprayed on some yellow candy. purple! In part four of his ‘paint from home’ series, our Ralph tells us that the 1970s was all about purple flake, man… Last time I was relaying After painting the spare tail piece, I badly airbrushed a ‘smoke’ effect on the the loss of my transition. airbrushing virginity and the application of blood red dye-based candy over the oh-so 1970s metal flake. I have really enjoyed the process to date, even though I have made a handful of mistakes, but nothing that wasn’t irreversible. I had the strange idea of using both yellow and purple, opposites on the colour wheel, which I have used in the past as a graphic designer. When working in Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop et al, on a computer one can change colours rapidly and see what works and what doesn’t. As I haven’t a clue how to draw in 3D with lighting effects on a PC, I really had to design the bike paint stuff in my head and hope it looked as good on a tank as it did in my mind’s eye. I knew that the yellow and purple was dangerous territory, so decided to try it out on the spare tank and tail to see how it looked in reality. 52 / classic motorcycle mechanics

On the tank I had just used a metallic After reversing the mask I sprayed purple candy on the spare parts. silver base, as one normally would for a candy job, because I had run out of binder Once the masking was removed from the tail piece, I realised that this idea was a to stick the flake, but it didn’t matter as it bad one. would be fine for the effect. I spent some time masking out the shape of the The spare tank didn’t look right either. transition from purple to yellow and then sprayed on the yellow candy, which looked amazing control of the Iwata airbrush, to give a key for the next lacquer coat and, fab. Once dry I had a go at blowing in a bit exactly where it was wanted. having learned my lesson previously, of black candy along the line of the mask made sure that I got into all the corners. as a sort of smoke effect, but put it on far I am way off painting portraits with my This also had the effect of flattening the too heavily, so it looked like what it was airbrush, but am getting to the point where ridges between the masked colours, – performed by someone with more I can direct paint where I want it, fairly making the transitions look better. I was a enthusiasm than skill or experience. I then accurately, which really saved my bacon tad nervous about rubbing over the stripes, quickly mixed up some purple candy after here. Once the repaired candy had cured, I but tested on the spare tank and it made reversing the masking and larded it on. removed all the masking and rubbed all all the difference. Once unmasked I realised that this was the surfaces with some grey Scotch-Brite not going to work, so decided that I’d shelve the yellow idea and stick with Deep Purple. At this stage it was very obvious that the blood red, gold and purple worked well for me. I ensured that the actual paint set was properly and accurately masked up ready for the deep purple. The Candy2O is best mixed at a ratio of six parts of UVLS clear 4050 to one of the candy and then up to 10 per cent 4011 reducer, if it’s still a tad thick. As my mixing cups only went up to 5:1 I used the 3:1 ratio markings and brought the UVLS up to the first line (A) and then poured in the Candy2O to halfway to the second line (B) and then judged the reducer by eye. I then mixed it up with a wooden tongue depressor, the best mixing sticks I had come across and affordable. I then set a timer for 15 minutes for the recommended ‘stand’ time. Whilst the paint was taking a kip, I soaked some paper towel in panel wipe and gently wiped any remaining grease or oils from the surface of the previous clear-coat before giving a final wipe with a tack cloth to remove any remaining bits of dust, grit or crap. As with the red, I used my mini smart repair spray gun to apply the candy. I set the gun up on something scrap to ensure the correct fan shape and a light paint flow. I then applied very light coats, keeping the gun moving at an even speed and ensuring that my overlaps were all equal. Candy is famously unforgiving of poor spray gun technique, so care is required. The thickness of the coating determines the colour and if the coating is uneven the result will be patchy or streaky: the thinner the coats the less the jeopardy. I let the candy cure for 24 hours and then noticed that the bottom of the tank was a bit light, as was the bottom of the sides of the tail and the underneath of the side-panels. I mixed up some more deep purple, gave it a tad more reducer and tipped it into my airbrush. Because I’m a real novice, Lisa at The Airbrush Company kindly sent me down a special handle for my airbrush with an adjustable stop so that I could limit the maximum paint flow, as I can with my more familiar spray gun. This made life much easier and I managed to gently blow in some candy thanks to the www.classicmechanics.com / 53

I didn’t have 6:1 mixing cup so filled/ …and then added the Candy2O, Wooden tongue depressors are readily poured the UVLS Clear to the A mark on bringing the level halfway up to the available, cheap and make perfect the 3:1 scale… B mark, giving me a 6:1 ratio. mixing sticks for paint. Siri was commanded to set a timer for 15 minutes stand time for the mixed paint. The tank all masked up and ready for some Deep Purple candy. The paint set with a cloak of candy purple. Again, I prepared the surface with a Sealing the paint so far, with another coat of two-pack clear coat. light pass of panel-wipe soaked cloth and a last wipe with a tack cloth before drying issues. If you keep putting on The orange peel finish needed to be applying the two-pack Octoral C401 lighter coats you don’t get the wonderful flattened to a nice smooth surface for clear-coat. In the past I have bought the glass-like finish out of the gun, rather you the next coat. Note the intermediate cheapest 2K clear that is available in get what is known as an ‘orange peel’ pad between the DA’s platen and the one-litre tins, but given the amount of texture. Many painters prefer to play it 600 grit Abranet disc. work going into this project I plumped for safe and just accept that once the lacquer Octoral, made by Valspar, which is very is dry, they will need to rub the surface basically two pieces of Velcro with a foam much a premium product and set me back down to get the required finish. As a sandwich between. This means that the just over £45 including 500ml of punter you would never know from the end sander is much softer on profiles. My hardener. The candy needs as much UV result what method has been employed. intermediate pad was far from cheap, but protection as possible, so I went premium. With this penultimate lacquer I got an was well worth the investment. orange peel finish and used my three-inch Cheap spray guns are fine for larding on DA (Dual Action sander) to flatten out the primer and you don’t want to use your best finish. I have been using modern Abranet gun for primer, but you do really want as discs, made by Mirka, which don’t require good a gun as you can afford for spraying one to wet the workpiece, as one had to candies and lacquers. With the clear, I with wet and dry, which has made sanding used my full-size gun with a wide fan a massively less messy and easier process. pattern. I initially sprayed a very light coat The discs are stuck to the platen of the on all the parts. I waited for it to flash off sander with Velcro. My paint mentor, Jak, and then opened the paint flow screw a bit told me about intermediate pads that are more and applied a slightly thicker coat to all the parts. I tend to use the bung in the petrol cap as a good place to detect how much the paint has set. This is known as wet-on-wet painting and when the previous coat is sticky to the gloved finger but not slippery, that is the time to apply the next coat. For the third coat I again opened up the flow control and sprayed a slightly thicker coat. By the fourth, I was putting on a pretty wet coat. The last coat is what is known as a flow coat and this is where the jeopardy is. If you want a perfect ‘gun finish’ you want the surface of the last coat to be completely liquid, but the risk is that if you go just slightly too heavy with it, you will get runs or sagging, primarily on the vertical surfaces and sometimes 54 / classic motorcycle mechanics

The DA makes life easier, but one has to concentrate as any mistakes happen much faster with a power tool! Even Abranet discs can get a little clogged after a while, but I Myriad masks of different sizes weeded out and covered in found a quick blow with the air-gun cleaned ‘em out a treat. application tape ready for use. Bike manufacturers tend to cut or print various sizes and got a friend with a vinyl top of the painted circle and, say, airbrush vinyl graphics for bodywork as it is cutter to cut them in self-adhesive stencil around it lightly on one side, when I remove quicker/easier and cheaper. I don’t care vinyl for me, which I still had in stock from the stencil I will be left with a drop shadow about time with this project, I just want to my sign-making days. I made a honeycomb around the original painted circle but, create the best bike I can and I have no pattern and a vulgar phrase in various because of the mask, the second colour issues with pushing the limits of my skills, typefaces, but SWMBO told me not to won’t touch the first colour. Once the learning new ones and even experimenting use them. weeding out was done then I applied with what is possible. application tape to all the vinyl stencils. Once the vinyl cutter’s knife had cut the I thought it would be fun to have some vinyl, I had to weed it out. This meant Next month when I use the stencils all Japanese script on the bike and I got a Z1 removing the parts I didn’t want. I had will be revealed about this stage. As it Owners Club friend, Iain Marshall, to get made positive and negative stencils of goes, I didn’t use the positive stencils for his Japanese mate, Tushy, to perform some each part. To explain this, imagine I want the actual job, but I have lots left over to translations for me. a circle. The cutter cuts two circles out of play with on the next project. Yes, there a piece of vinyl. For one I would pick out will be more. I have really enjoyed this As it turned out I had to literally draw the inside of the circle and for the other I experience. cmm the scripts in Adobe Illustrator to get the leave the circle in the middle. I then stick look I wanted, which is hugely time- the negative stencil on my work piece and  The Airbrush Company – airbrushes.com consuming, so I did one tag line before spray over it. When I take the stencil off (Supplied me Airbrush, Flake Gun and losing the will to live. I designed all sorts there will be a painted circle left. If I then supplies, and Createx paints) See advert of other bits and bobs, including the KHI stick the positive stencil exactly over the  Mirka – mirka.com/en (Kawasaki Heavy Industries) River logo, in www.classicmechanics.com / 55

Project Aprilia Tuono Fighter R part 4 WORDS: BERTIE SIMMONDS PICS: GARY CHAPMAN, GRIFF WOOLLEY Lady HAGA! Bertie picks up his bodywork for the project and is simply blown away – yes, a two-wheeled star is born! The crowning glory of any Aprilia Performance With the bodywork off, it was time to restoration or specials Workshops in the summer of take it somewhere for attention. I’m pretty build has to be the 2021 then (almost) forgot sure that at some point in its life the paintwork, right? Often it’s the about it. Tuono had been outside for some time. last thing to get bolted to the The lacquer on the tank had flaked and bike then you bask in the glow of The bike was given a some areas were quite faded. With the completion… relatively clean bill of health 1 standard scheme red/white chequer really Well, I’m nearly there then... nearly, but by Griff Woolley but so many not doing it for me, I enlisted the help of not quite. That said, I’m sure I’m not the things needed sorting on it, most Kar Lee and the skills of the crew at only one to have had that ‘kid in a sweet important of which was the Ohlins rear Dream Machine. shop’ feeling when Kev Porter at Dream shock. That was sorted by Rob Wittey Machine dropped me a line to tell me that down at PDQ in Taplow and it got a full the paintwork was finished and that I overhaul with a new shaft and seals. All should pop along and pick it all up. told, it set me back £320. The front-end I A quick recap then Back in 2021 I figured was a bridge I would cross when I bought a Mk.II Tuono R, sight unseen. It got to it, but Rob had already told me that had 34k on the clocks and, on pick up, the Showa forks my bike had didn’t have the clutch was knackered, so I paid a the issues that the Factory model’s Ohlins couple of hundred quid less than the radial forks did where many people £2400 asking. I got the bike to experts over-tighten the bottom fork bolts which can lead to cracks appearing. 56 / classic motorcycle mechanics

3 2 1/ The original Kar Lee concept wasn’t as colourful as the others, but then the addition of logos, etc., turned it into a thing of beauty. 2/ Idiot editor bores Kev stupid with talk of airbrushing Airfix Spitfires. 3/ The quality and accuracy of the decals/vinyl was spot-on. 4/ This tail section was pitted and chipped before – now it’s not. 5/ A very happy chap. And here is where it could have all gone 4 wrong… Kar came up with some corking designs, some of which I really fancied. As 56 Kar said when I gave him the brief: “The Tuono doesn’t have a lot of real estate to 7 play with…” But his designs echoed some 6/ Colours need to be spot-on when doing a replica and these are. Placing of logos needs to of the older paint schemes of the past – be considered, too. 7/ Jigsaw of bodywork needs the colours/scheme to work as a whole. nicely retro – and even some from early Aprilia race bikes and here it was that, perhaps, fate took a hand. Kev at Dream Machine contacted me when I was on deadline asking which one I wanted to do and I said: “Do whichever one you want to, Kev.” Oops, a while later he said that they’d decided on the traditional black Aprilia one, but with a bit of a Noriyuki Haga Aprilia replica touch. That wasn’t really what I wanted – another black Aprilia to join the other two V-twin black Aprilias that I’d once owned… I’d screwed up. Thanks to the genius of the guys at Dream Machine, I hadn’t screwed up and they had done me proud. I popped along to pick the bodywork up and then do a round-robin trip from Long Eaton to Tamworth where Griff and the naked Tuono were waiting. Despite ‘knowing’ roughly what it would look like (see the attached Kar Lee visual) I was wrong. Kev and the team had taken that as a base and really checked out the looks of the original Haga-rep from 2003 and tickled it to suit the Tuono. I shook Kev’s hand as I walked into Dream Machine and could see the bodywork in the main office sat there. Kev saw my jaw drop... “Oh good, you like it then?” Like it? This was a work of art. Stunning. The details they’d incorporated – like the graphics and that lovely, almost fluorescent red on the scoops below the headlights, but how? Kev explained: “We’ve been doing this since 1977, so we’ve got the right colours as we’ve done most things before. www.classicmechanics.com / 57

89 “We’ve also got our own graphics team one? Yes, more expense but I’m trying to 10 in-house so it was an interesting little see the positives in such issues! project for us. Glad you like it.” Like it – I Thank you to: bloody love it. They’d even repaired some of Griff has had some issues with the bare the nicks and chips in the various bits and bones of the bike whilst waiting for the  Kev Porter and all at Dream Machine: pieces of bodywork I’d supplied. (CMM will bodywork, but we’ll discuss that next time. www.dream-machine.co.uk be doing a feature on Dream Machine in the What I will say is that Griff is a  Griff, Snox and Amber at: next issue to look at the processes used to perfectionist and he wants this bike to be www.apworkshops.co.uk get to the completed bodywork.) They do 100 per cent right before it goes out. What  Neil Young and Paul Manning at Moto some bits and pieces for aftermarket Griff did do was carefully put the bodywork Movers: www.motomovers.uk manufacturers, but as you can imagine, on the bike and see how she looks – and  PDQ, Rob Wittey and the legend that is you’ll also see lots of RD, Powervalve, RG what a stunner! Larry Webb for the shock refurbishment: and other bits of classic bodywork lying www.pdq1.com around ready to be worked on. I’ve purposely given you only a quick, small pic to look at as, hopefully by next I carefully placed all the bodywork into issue, we will have the final part and the the back of my old banger – pleased as BIG reveal. At least I hope so. I just can’t punch. Then I drove very steadily to AP wait to see (and hear) the big V-twin in the Workshops and Griff, who had a smile as flesh. cmm wide as mine when he saw the bodywork. Initially Griff reckoned I should paint the wheels a different colour, but thankfully I argued that the Haga rep had purple wheels and this seemed to calm Griff’s perfectionist nerves and that meant the lovely (and new) Pirelli Angel GTIIs could stay on the rims. One thing that Griff said did give me pause for thought: “Where’s the front mudguard?” A quick call to Kev and he was none the wiser, so I’ve lost it somewhere! From the pics I’ve scanned through pre drop-off at Dream Machine – the fender was there… I had the Merc back then and dropped the stuff off so I’m sure that I would have noticed a mudguard in the small boot but, whatever, maybe I should go for a carbon 11 8/ Kev said it’s not lacquered so I can take the logo off: I’m proud to leave it on. 9/ Haga scheme works well. 10/ This was once a very scrappy- looking Tuono tank. Look at it now. 11/ Posed for the camera, Bertie did cover everything with decent amounts of bubble-wrap – so please don’t worry! 12/ Almost there… Dry fit of bodywork shows how good this is going to look. Finishing touches will come with the mudguard and the rear hugger getting some attention. 12 58 / classic motorcycle mechanics

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Project Suzuki TR750 Special part 22 WORDS AND PICS: MALC SHAW Resistance is futile! It’s nearly there – honest! Malc is about to put the finishing touches on the TR and let it bark into life. Iguess it’s just how these 1 in time, would far exceed just buying a part things go. Restoring a bike, or having it made for me but then my skills I think is somewhat not paying that amount!’ (I might be from would not have developed, which I guess is different. Ye, it has its own set ‘down south’ but I do have Yorkshire invaluable. Here’s a case(ing) in point! of difficulties, twists and heritage!). There’s no doubt that the time turns, however, building a special where a I’ve spent on some items if I had to cost it, lot of parts are built from scratch, making things fit is a different ball game. Despite trying to use as many standard items as possible, it’s all the small bits which seem to take up so much time, but if they’re not good then the overall function, look and finish are not going to be great. It’s no wonder so many projects end up unfinished in the back of the shed! Resilience to keep going is vital. Now whatever people may think, I’m not a rich man. True, this has not been a cheap project but I try and save as much money as possible where I can. I often look at the price of things and think: ‘I’m 60 / classic motorcycle mechanics

23 45 67 Have you seen the price of the tin were machined. Then it was reversed in The overall thickness was reduced and a points cover on a GT750... ouch! No way order to keep it as square as possible polish with a Scotch-Brite pad left me with was I paying that, but there wasn’t any (Photo 2). The next part involved this (Photo 5). I chickened out putting way I could straighten out what I had to machining out the inside; a hole was drilled ‘fins’ in it as I was unsure if I could get look good. I had grandiose ideas of making being mindful not to go too deep, and the them orientated in the correct direction. I an ally-finned cover but not the skill; oh rest was done with a boring bar (Photo 3). then put the casing on a rotary table on well, time to have a go! the mill, worked out the bolt-hole spacing, There’d been lots of measuring to and using a milling cutter and drill, made I scuttled off to a local ally supplier and ensure there was clearance for the ignition the requisite holes. I have to admit I was from their ‘scrap’ bin they found me a pick-ups and that once bolted up the quite pleased with the finished article. decent chunk of solid, round, grade casing would register correctly. How long did it take? At least a day-and-a- unknown ally: £10! A visit to Darrel the half. The Suzuki chromed tin cover, if you tool maker and he cut it in two (Photo 1). Once this was achieved I could turn the can get one, lists at £85! We had a chat on how to make the cover. part round again and by changing the One of the things you learn with machining chuck jaws I could hold the casing I needed a small clip to hold the is how to hold items and the order in internally. The biggest danger here was ignition trigger wires up away from the which you need to machine the part. If you getting the maths wrong and cutting too exhaust, which was simply a matter of get it wrong then it may just not work out, much material away, breaking through it making a small clip! Here’s how many or you cannot hold it to perform the next and reducing it to scrap! attempts it took to get right (Photo 6) and operation. I must be getting better as I’d lots of time. Eventually I got it to work; all got the process reasonably right! By setting the compound slide at an I used finally was stainless TIG rod bent to angle I was able to chamfer the sides. I shape, but again getting to the finished Reverse jaws were put in the chuck as admit there was a bit of finger crossing part felt like a marathon (Photo 7). the ally only just fitted. The face and sides here as I was not quite sure how much material I had left to work with (Photo 4). www.classicmechanics.com / 61

89 The next job was the throttle cable. I’d 10 11). A breather made, oil lines connected hoped that an early GT750 cable would and the oil-pump bled as per the manual. work. At the time I could not find a pattern which is apparently part of the problem Dash powder-coated, rev-counter, gear part and any NOS were silly prices. I had being stainless, with the nipples in place indicator and shift light fitted (Photo 12). to hand a pattern Kawasaki KH400 cable was dipped into the liquid flux, then the Exhausts fitted; a bit of heat wrap applied from WeMoto; it looked like with some solder pot. The solder seems to flow round near the carbs. Plus loads more bits until alteration it would work. Again, something and into everything. Upon cooling I could finally it was ready for a start-up. Carbs I’ve never done before. It fitted the twist see it had penetrated everywhere, making were balanced and filled with fuel; spark grip end perfectly but not the carb and oil a strong joint. With a little bit of filing checked; out of gear; a few prods on the pump ends. away any excess solder on the nipples it kick-starter; it’s certainly got some fitted and worked as I’d hoped (Photo 10). compression plus a healthy kick back A bit of YouTube and research pointed It’s not perfect but I have now a process and… sorry, you’re just going to have to me in the right direction. I had a good look which I can refine at a later date. wait for the next thrilling instalment! cmm at the Venhill Engineering website and contacted them to order the requisite I’m not going to detail putting all the Thanks to: Venhill Engineering parts. I’d also taken some time to measure parts on that were previously made so 01306 885111 things like the distance required to fully here’s a quick run through. Wiring that is open the carb slides, etc. (Photo 8). required just to fire the bike up was put back. Oil tank refitted after a polish (Photo Parts arrived and I set about shortening cables and soldering on new nipples with my trusty soldering iron. It worked... not! Well, some did but, on a few occasions, the nipples pulled off. I also found that the throttle was so heavy it was going to be almost impossible to ride. I replaced the throttle springs that came with the carbs for some Suzuki GT500 ones I had, which were much better. However, a conversation with Allens Performance informed me that there was the possibility with ‘weaker’ springs that the air pressure in the carbs may cause the slides to stick. Guess we will find out! After a bit more searching of the internet I decided on a different approach. As can be seen from Photo 9 I made a small solder pot which I clamped upright in the vice. This is heated with a MAP gas torch until the solder is molten. The cable, 11 12 62 / classic motorcycle mechanics



Project Honda CG125 restoration, part 3 WORDS AND PICS: JOHN NUTTING Reader inspirations The readers of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics are a rich source of encouragement to those who write the words, as John Nutting found out during the resto of his CG125 Honda You’d think that the Peter Briscoe’s project recreates a CG as a 1960s Honda production racer. process of dismantling and reassembling a I often wonder how readers respond to subsequent CB50 Dream road bike that motorcycle for its restoration articles like these; whether it strikes a was made in limited numbers. Key to would be straightforward, chord or provides inspiration, or is perhaps getting that look was the use of the long wouldn’t you? What was an assembly must as dull as dishwater. The answer came fuel tank and racing seat, and Peter said go back together with ease, surely. with a letter to the editor from Peter he could help locate these awkward-to-find Back in May last year when the project Briscoe, who had sent images of a similar parts. Clearly, he had applied himself to was last featured in CMM, after I’d had project to recreate something along the getting the project completed quickly, the CG125’s frame, rear fork and other lines of a 1960s Honda production racer. unlike myself who had been distracted too components primed and sprayed eggshell many times over the year by other gloss black, I’d casually thrown it together His inspiration came from an admiration activities. Says Peter, who lives near to give me an idea of how it would look. To of the 50cc CR110 racer and the give me lift, of sorts, I suppose. It was an encouragement. I had been fed up with the 1980 CG125 I’d bought back in 2009; as a runabout the push-rod single ran well but the whole chassis was a rust bucket. Chipping through the layers of paint revealed horrible corrosion. And so it was stripped to the bones for a proper paint job that would make it look more like Honda’s lightweight sports bikes of the 1960s in black and silver. Adding a touch of class were wheels rebuilt with light-alloy rims sourced in Italy. Yes, I was indulging in a costly exercise that was hardly in the spirit of penny- pinching CG125 ownership – parts prices seemed like they’d never risen since the 1980s – but I thought they looked great. 64 / classic motorcycle mechanics

Motobatt – we love them at CMM! Wiring is always a headache... even on a tiddler! Warwick: “I built mine during a three- to resource them. The lean and mean look Rear-set footrests are desirable, of month break between contracts. I was of Peter’s Honda was also the result of course. It is supposed to be a ‘racer’ after already well into a Ducati 748 SP pruning redundant components. all. I’ve been considering how to attach recreation project, but waiting for the foot-rest brackets to the swingarm pivots, Duke’s paintwork to be completed – four “I have junked the air-box, battery and but they’ll also need supports from the years on and I’m waiting for the engine to associated brackets,” he says. “This was frame tubing. Peter has looked at the be completed!” really important to me as I wanted to frame-mounted passenger footrest recreate the clean lines of the CR110.” arrangement on the CD200 twin, the frame The Honda’s special tank and seat were Replacing the battery is a capacitor that’s of which is otherwise almost identical to supplied by OORacing, based in tucked out of sight. “It’s proven 100 per the CG125. But, like me, he doesn’t want Sandwich, Kent, for less than £300. cent reliable,” says Peter. “I still have the anything that looks ‘Heath Robinson’. But “They only took a bit of amateur bike alongside several others, as it’s such that’s for the future. Reassembling the engineering to get them to fit nicely,” says fun to ride and confuses the so-called basic of my bike proved to be more of a Peter. But Adrian Mortimer at OORacing ‘aficionados’ when they try and figure out challenge than I’d expected. has run out of stock, and has been trying what it is.” Head-lamp dry build. Mass of wiring behind the shell. www.classicmechanics.com / 65

For a start I hadn’t realised that the Steve Coker with primed fuel tank. closely to see the marks in the correct lovely new paint applied to the frame took light to detect them, and in the photos up the clearances, and more, with the By now Steve Coker called to say he’d they are barely visible. But Steve is a engine. Although there was plenty of finished spraying the mudguards in silver perfectionist, and I had let him down. tolerance with the engine bolts, which and needed my opinion on the positioning were replaced with stainless dome-head of the black lining on the fuel tank. But he The spray painting of motorcycle tanks cap versions, there was nothing to spare wasn’t happy with the finish on the and bodywork is a specific craft that always side-to-side at the gearbox end. Even mudguards, which had been dechromed amazes me when it’s shown in videos. It’s laying the engine on a carpet on the floor because the primer wouldn’t otherwise key counter-intuitive because the process is of the garage to help position the frame to the surface. I had carried out the seemingly carried out in reverse, with the demanded some wrestling, and a bit of rubbing down with wet and dry and detail paintwork, such as lining and fettling of the inside of the pressings. thought the final finish was as smooth to panelling, applied first before the top coat the touch as could be possible. “Which and clear lacquer. I was still surprised when The lower steering head bearing, made grade had you finished them with?” asked Steve showed me the fuel tank painted up of a cone and dome like the top one, Steve. I said it was 400. “Then that black. I’d wanted it silver. Steve explained along with 40 balls, was replaced with new explains why you can still see scratches in that the black lining would be where the and fitted after cleaning out the housing in the clear lacquer. It should be 800,” he masking tapes had been positioned. the steering head. But beware: even said. I confess that I had to look really though I thought they were seated, they weren’t properly so when the refurbished front fork assembly was refitted, every time the bike was placed on its wheels, some clearance returned. Another wrestling match was necessary to get the centre-stand in place with its return spring. The stand’s pivot shaft is a key component on the CG, also doubling as the support for the rear brake lever. The rusty old one had been so butchered during the dismantling that a new one was ordered from Dave Silver Spares, along with a shiny new return spring. I’d left fitting the return spring until the engine was back in, but wished I hadn’t. Of course, with the stand down there’s no way you can fit the spring when it is fully extended. So the bike was again laid on its side to ease the process. But I still couldn’t pull the spring over the prongs. In a flash of inspiration I checked the new spring against the cruddy old one. Sure enough, it was much shorter (which I’ll take up with Mr. Silver). After I cleaned up the old spring everything fell into place, including the brake light stop switch. Front mudguard finished silver. And the rear in the same colour. 66 / classic motorcycle mechanics

Rear spindle fettling. Stand spring close up. Ignition system dry build. I okayed the graphics and set off home lighting which is fed direct from the was, so a new chain was ordered, delivered to fit the mudguards, which to be honest I flywheel magneto. promptly, and fed over the sprockets. The thought looked great. Stainless dome cap front was one-tooth smaller to lower the screws were used all round, adding to the There was also an interruption in the gearing and accommodate the larger rolling classy look, and the wiring system proper fitting of the rear wheel. Until now diameter of the new 18-inch rear tyre, which converted to 12-volt by Marcus at Rex’s it was just resting in the slots, but for replaced the original 17-incher. Still the Speed Shop refitted. some reason the spindle wouldn’t reach chain was really slack. I checked the spec in the front of them, which would offer plenty the Haynes manual to find that the chain New paint on the frame nearly always of adjustment as the drive chain wore (see, had two links more than needed. So it was interrupts the earthing of electrical I was really thinking ahead). out with the chain breaker, and all was fine. components and sure enough two of the direction indicators didn’t work until I hated the idea, but it was necessary to Next time the fuel tank will be back and I’d made sure that the connection fettle the paint in the slots to get the spindle we’ll see how everything is running. back to earth was made. Until the engine in the right position. Strangely though, when Fingers crossed. Then the cosmetic was running I couldn’t check the main the old chain was refitted it was really slack. restyling can start in earnest. cmm Surely it couldn’t be that worn? Perhaps it With engine and rear guard in. She’s on her way! www.classicmechanics.com / 67

PWHOORTDOSS::BGUUYSGTAERVYECCHOAOPPMEARNIEDRE’S POOR RUNNING ELECTRICS Often due to either home ‘tuning’, electrical issues or Often bodged and modified – carb problems – or a mix of all three! Keeping everything check everything works and look standard is often the best way. for any obvious issues, such as corroded block connectors/ BRAKES butchered looms for alarms. Nissins will feel tired FRAME by now and a full update with braided These can often be damaged in hoses, new pads and the event of a crash so check over a calliper strip and thoroughly. These later models clean will bring them have a sturdier frame than the G/H back as good(ish) as originals, but can still suffer. new. WHEELS Have often had a hard time. If doing a ground- up restoration, spend time/money checking for any cracks in the three- spoke wheels and ensure that both are in line as the GSX-R1100 was a much-crashed machine. ENGINE All three versions of the 1100 motor (1052, 1127 air/oil and 1074 liquid- cooled) are generally very reliable and can take more power and plenty of punishment. The L’s 1127cc unit is brilliantly robust with no major issues. 68 / classic motorcycle mechanics

1100L Suzuki’s air-/oil-cooled beast is a legend. Powered by a legendary motor which boasts bulletproof reliability, sadly the bike overall was hamstrung by iffy handling, sorted – in part – with a move to inverted front forks for 1990. ERGONOMICS It’s amazing to think that Suzuki’s mighty GSX-R1100 is 37 years old with this incarnation Try before you buy. Any GSX-R1100 model’s – the 1100L – almost 33 years old. ergonomics can feel painful on the knees, even The thing is, a GSX-R of any capacity never seems if you’re used to a modern sports-bike. to age and always looks good. Making its debut in BODYWORK 1986, the 1100G was based heavily on the previous year’s trendsetting GSX-R750F. So, it There’s a reason why people turned these into street-fighters – bodywork was shared a similar-looking MR767 aluminium expensive and became rare and is rarer still today with tanks costing hundreds box-section ‘double-cradle’ frame, the of pounds and tail-units and body panels likewise. ‘Full-Floater’ swingarm and a 1052cc motor which would be the first of the legendary powerplants that would be synonymous with power, tuneability and reliability. Cooling would be – like the 750 – a combination of air/oil, but power was around 128bhp claimed at the crank at just under 10,000rpm. Weight would be 197 kilos dry, but this would creep up as the various models progressed, so that by 1988 the K-model weighed in at around 210 kilos dry, albeit with 10bhp more at around 9000rpm. While the preceding H and J models had been refinements of what went before, the K-model had some big changes and it (again) followed the looks and design of the previous year’s GSX-R750J ‘Slingshot’. With the K-model, in came an 1127cc motor, which had been seen on the GSX1100F sports-tourer from 1987, which was pretty much slotted into the GSX-R750J’s short, stiff chassis. Peak power was well up, thanks in part to 36mm carburettors and torque was up from 76lb-ft of the 1100J to 82-85lb-ft of the K, but the chassis seemed hard-pressed to cope, even if the styling was fresh and new. Launched at Jerez race circuit for 1989, the billiard table smooth circuit didn’t show any major issues. But when the bikes came back to the UK, journalists and owners complained of slow-speed steering issues, a basic nervousness to the handling itself and a stiff and uncompromising suspension feel overall. Many felt that the shortened wheelbase and trail as well as smaller 17 (previously 18-inch) wheels and steeper head angle made the thing a bit of a pig when allied to the stodgy right-way-up forks. Worse was to come at that year’s Isle of Man TT races when Phil Mellor crashed his GSX-R1100 www.classicmechanics.com / 69

THIS VERY BIKE… What to buy and how much to pay Back in 2014 CMM was A decade ago you could pick up a cheap GSX-R1100 of any year/model – but no longer. For approached by the Suzuki example: editor Bertie paid £2500 for a 1997 1100WT which had 8200 miles on the clocks. It’s Apprentice Centre in now up for sale in a shop with 300 miles more on it for £6495… Doncaster to follow its restoration of this 1990 The price back then for a good one – say around £2500 – is now pretty much the entry-level GSX-R1100L. of a bit of a basket case today. Looking around, you’ll find that it doesn’t matter what model you’re wanting, the prices are pretty much the same. This would be a full strip-down and Ten or more years ago the first models of the mighty GSX-R1100 – the G and H versions – restoration job, the aim of were the ones commanding top dollar as these were the desirable ones, but over time this has which was to teach the trickled down through the various years, meaning that even today the water-cooled 1993 young apprentices all WP-WW 1074cc versions are commanding about sorting out ‘old’ decent money at last. rather than ‘new’ bikes. Tim Davies from Suzuki So, if you want a slice of meaty motorcycle GB’s Vintage Parts in your garage, you will need to spend a Programme knew the bike minimum of £3500 for something that needs as it belonged to his a damn good tidy, with around 40,000 miles brother Howard, before on the clocks. If you want less work and being sold to his friend fewer miles, then expect to spend closer to Stuart Baker, who rode it five grand. We’ve seen 1990 L/1991 M models until 2003 when he left it go for around £6000 if tidy. in his garden, before sadly passing away in and died during the 1300 Production TT race. First inverted forks on a production bike. 2013 from Marfan Many attributed the proddie crashes to an Syndrome. anomaly between power, handling and the road For road bikes, the 1100L pointed the way to tyres of the time. Either way, the damage had the future with inverted front forks – even if early The bike was salvaged been done to the bike’s image and big-bore Honda CBR900RR FireBlades didn’t use them as from the garden after a production racing on the Isle of Man, which designer Tadao Baba didn’t like the fact they decade (literally) in the wouldn’t return until 1996. were heavier than right-way-up items. wilderness and with flora and fauna growing Suzuki reacted swiftly to the issues. For 1990, Despite the advance in front suspension, the through and in it. With the Suzuki GSX-R1100L would have a longer GSX-R1100L was heavier still at 240 kilos or the blessing of Stuart’s wheelbase by some 35mm over the K, thanks in 529lb wet with fuel and oil and this trend would wife Tracie it was bought part due to a longer swingarm, by about 25mm. continue until the major update of 1993, when and restored, and has More stability came from wider front and rear the engine became the 1074cc liquid-cooled since raised a fair few rims, holding 130 section (front) and 160 unit and the overall wet-weight would be down to quid in memory of Stuart, section (rear) tyres. Of course, the forks 231 kilos. 1991’s 1100M model would move while also highlighting themselves would be ‘inverted’, otherwise known things on still further with revised steering the brilliant job that the as ‘upside-down’ forks. geometry, changed tyre sizes (the rear went up to Vintage Parts Programme a 180 section) and refined suspension with a does with selling parts for The idea for inverted forks originally came from wider range of adjustment for compression and Suzuki classics. off-road and it was thought that turning the fork rebound damping. The M also had an enclosed upside-down gave the fork itself greater strength headlamp arrangement. Interestingly for such a and rigidity as the larger diameter part of the fork hefty lump of a bike, this is being held by the yokes. This makes the Any model of GSX-R1100 is special but we’d GSX-R1100L had even front-end ‘stiffer’. By the late 1980s, racer say this one stands out. Firstly, it’s still old been club raced back in Anders Andersson started to use inverted school cool: the Nissin four-pot callipers grasping the early 1990s, before telescopic forks on his Formula 1 road-race bike. the slotted 310mm discs; the twin-headlamp going on the road and It caught on and the rest is history. In later years ‘endurance’ look is still there from the original; then being left in the Anders would work with Ohlins Suspension, so he the curves, bulges and scoops on the bodywork garden. It’s now a knew his stuff. and the colour scheme is just right in corporate stunning example of a Suzuki white and blues (yes, the seats should be 1990 model. Tim says: Original exhausts are hard to find now. blue, too, not black). But then you’ve also got “This bike has been a those lovely, inverted Showa forks – a first for a great tool for us to show production motorcycle. cmm how many parts are available for various Suzuki classic motorcycles and it was a great learning process for the many young apprentices who worked on the bike over the course of a year or so.” 70 / classic motorcycle mechanics

SPECIFICATION EXHAUSTS SUSPENSION 1100L Never normally stayed standard for long, but today you’ll As fantastic as the Showa ENGINE TYPE want standard for best resale value. Try DK Classic Spares inverted forks looked on the Air-/oil-cooled four-cylinder, on eBay and also at: www.dkmotorcycles.com If you want 1100L back then and today, they to go modified then the likes of Yoshimura’s Cyclone are still a pretty basic fork. By four-stroke series and Laser exhausts are proper ‘period’ end-cans. now they will need a good strip and sort out. Normal issues CAPACITY PARTS & SERVICES of powerful bikes/wheelies 1127cc and fork-seal damage applies ■ https://bikes.suzuki.co.uk/vintage- here, too. Rear suspension will BORE X STROKE parts-programme/ need overhauling by now if it’s 78mm x 59mm not been done, otherwise all FORUMS that adjustability (something COMPRESSION RATIO like nine pre-load settings 10:1 ■ www.suzukiownersclub.co.uk/ and 19 each for rebound and ■ www.gixxer.com compression) will make zero CLAIMED POWER difference. Quality replacement 130bhp @ 9500rpm shocks are worth investing in. TORQUE 85lb-ft @ 7500rpm IGNITION Digital INDUCTION 4 x 36mm Mikuni BST36SS TRANSMISSION 5-speed BRAKES 2 x 310mm disc, four-piston Nissin calliper (F) & 240 mm disc, two piston calliper (R) TYRES 130/60-17 (F) / 180/55-17 (R) DRY WEIGHT 210kg /462lb OVERALL LENGTH 2090mm (82.3”) WHEELBASE 1465mm (57.6”) WIDTH 754mm (29.7”) HEIGHT 1235mm (48.6”) FUEL TANK CAPACITY 4.6 gallons (21 litres) OIL CAPACITY 7 pints (4 litres) GEARBOX Very sturdy and able to handle more power, but third gear can wear, according to strip-down/owner evidence. www.classicmechanics.com / 71

BIKE CLEANING servicesguide To advertise in classifiedmechanics please contact: Simon on 01507 529310 BLAST CLEANING BIKE STANDS BREAKING BLAST CLEANING CARBURETTORS 72 / classic motorcycle mechanics

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servicesguide RADIATOR NUTS & BOLTS RESTORATION SEATS PAINT WORK PARTS AND SPARES SHOCK ABSORBERS STICKERS & GRAPHICS www.classicmechanics.com 74 / classic motorcycle mechanics

servicesguide TOOLS TRANSPORT TYRES WEB DIRECTORY WHEEL BUILDING www.classicmechanics.com / 75

Workshop To advertise call Simon on WISDOM 01507 529310 We’re CMM readers, we’re more than capable of giving the spanners a twirl and priming the grease gun... but once in a while there’s a job that even we know is really just that step too far. Yes, a quick tutorial on ‘that facetube’ would be very handy and you could make a fair fist of it, but when you want it done just right, when it’s a process or a treatment that gives your bike that extra touch of protection and quality, or when you need to know that safety is absolutely top notch, we all know our limits. That’s when it’s time to call in the professionals, the guys and girls who will do a great job in perhaps a tenth of the time you’d have taken. With services from wheel building, powder coating and laser etching, through to rebuilding those brake calipers, these are the people to talk to. Check out the businesses on this page, and give them a call – the friendly professionals will make sure your two-wheeled pride and joy is purring for the summer.

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readersbikes&bits BOOK YOUR AD NOW! online www.classicmechanics.com post Fill in the coupon on page 77 email [email protected] BMW R80G/S 1981, 95% BMW R80RT 1986, full BSA C15 1963, new exhaust, DUCATI 900GTS right hand HARLEY-DAVIDSON Sturgis complete the engine is running professional rebuild covering clutch, chain and sprockets, SS gear change, restored 5 years Shovelhead, 1981, solid lifters, brakes and electrics work, bike 1900 since, rewire by Steve wheels, battery, top end ago, 36,441 miles with a lot of kicker conversion and electric was fitted with twin braked ST Hallum, many quality extras, dry overhaul, saddle, comes with history, very good condition, start, solid rear wheel, 16” front, front end by its previous owner stored, £5500 ono Tel. 07378 C5 doc, £2300 Tel. 07967 £13,500 Tel. 01842 827015. horseshoe oil tank, V5C, MoT some 25 years ago, £4500 Tel. 539241. 246914. Email. [email protected] exempt, £7500 may p/x Tel. 07944 226255. Shropshire Norfolk 07876 704268. Norfolk HONDA Super Magna 700cc, HONDA Nighthawk, 1995, HONDA CK500 Trike, 1986, HONDA 400/4 F2, 1977, HONDA 90 CUB 1997, 17.000 UK reg, US import, looks runs 250cc, many parts, restored contact for further details Tel. reconditioned forks, overhauled miles, button/kick start, runs and sounds amazing, Cobra engine in exceptional running 07434 783732. Northern Ireland engine/gearbox, powder beautifully, but maybe do with a exhausts, Whitewall tyres, condition, brakes, suspension coated frame, s/s spokes, tidy, £1200 Tel. 01438 228592. bespoke chain link, rack/sissy all good, £1250 Tel. 07572 Delkevic exhaust, £4700 Tel. Herts bar, recent full service, £3250 862332. Essex 07707 671890. Gloucester obo Tel. 01902 842202. HONDA CB250K2 1971, HONDA CB400/4 1977, HONDA CB400F2 1977, new HONDA CB500 Y, year 2000, HONDA CB500 Four 1972, K owned 10 years, fully restored restored new parts, frame tyres, electrics, reconditioned vgc, 20,600 miles, MoT, Puig plate UK, full restoration engine by previous owner, starts and powder coated, new rims, carbs, alloy rims, s/s spokes, flyscreen with deflector and has had new pistons cam chain runs well, 9841 miles, £2500 spokes and bearings, has rack, spares, 35,000 miles, £3995 auxillary socket, Oxford heated and tensioner, new valves and ono Tel. Fraser 07836 364027. many new parts, historic Tel. Keith 07391 901041. Email. grips, Givi rack and top box, crank shells Tel. 07714 474733. Edinburgh registration, £4500 ono Tel. [email protected] £1500 Tel. Mike 01228 530329. 01780 755017. Carlisle HONDA CB750FB 1982, HONDA CBF250 2008, silver, HONDA CBR250R 1997, HONDA CL350 1973, original HONDA NC700S 2012, DCT 39,000 miles, UK model, same genuine 1200 miles only, prepared for track days, condition, showing 7000 miles, automatic, or can be ridden owner 40 years, complete excellent condition, £2450 Tel. parades or road use with stored for 3 years so sold as manually with ‘paddles’ low 10k rebuild, vgc, powder-coated, 07906 677388. North London daylight MoT, not used since non-runner, carbs need miles, MoT to Oct 2023, well genuine Honda exhaust, £5499 rebuild, nearly £2500 spent on overhaul, £2200 Tel. 07789 maintained, touring screen, Tel. 07746 467511. Manchester parts and paint, £3250 Tel. 757471. £3295 Tel. 07949 920208; 01227 272164. Kent 01204 388554. Lancs HONDA VFR750 F-M single s/ HONDA XL125RF 1986 model, KAWASAKI 1000GT, Versys, KAWASAKI ER5 2007, genuine KAWASAKI GPZ600R 1987, arm model, J reg needs 12 mths MoT, only 8341 miles, 2021, 70 reg, only 2500 miles, 1293 miles from new, 38,662 miles, on Sorn, bought recommissioning stood few comes with Owners Handbook, one owner, full GT touring pack immaculate condition, 2nd as a commuter, good spares/ years, stored in dry shed, cash Haynes Manual, tow bar inc fog lights, panniers, top box, owner, currently on Sorn, can repair or project for someone, on collection, £950 Tel. 07474 mounting bracket to transport, crash protection and SE touring MoT depending on sale price, new brakes, tyres and battery, 128407. Somerset ride or restore, £1500 ono Tel. screen, £9999 Tel. 07887 £2750 ono Tel. Les 07415 £575 ono Tel. 07825 700115. Tim 07850 804405. Lincs 835035. Durham 327789. Kent Aberdeenshire KAWASAKI GPZ900R 1988 KAWASAKI GTR1000 1994, KAWASAKI KE125 1976, A3 KAWASAKI W650 immaculate, KAWASAKI Z1R 1980, for sale (A5), 35,750 miles, MoT 03/23, 39,222 miles, great condition, Pearlescent yellow, nut & bolt 2001, 14,500 miles, truly mint condition, £9250 ono Tel. owned with service history regular service, some spares, restoration, everything rebuilt, beautiful condition, always 003538 62305236. Dublin, since 1995, garaged since £2000 ono Tel. 07902 692715. engine, wheels seat cover, tank cared for must be one of the Ireland 1999, Motad Nexxus 4-1 Southampton cost £1000 to restore, £3250 Tel. best around, Brit bike feel exhaust, £3750 Tel. 07758 John 07801 720841. Email. without the hassles, £3795 ono 221034. SE London [email protected] Lancs Tel. 07817 257889. Leics 78 / classic motorcycle mechanics

readersbikes&bits BOOK YOUR AD NOW! online www.classicmechanics.com post Fill in the coupon on page 77 email [email protected] KAWASAKI Z550F 1987, MoT MALAGUTTI Phantom F16, MALANCA Competizione 50 MATCHLESS G9 1959, bike is MOTO GUZZI contact for August 2023, carbs overhauled, 2004, 50cc, red, 2000 genuine 4M, stunning and very rare, first class, new battery, new details, £5800 Tel. 07706 new fork seals, see May 2022 miles, very good condition, non fantastic original unrestored tyres, £5200 ono Tel. 01745 730083. North Wales Show Us Yours, £1650 Tel. runner needs recommissioning, condition, came from a private 353083. Denbighshire 07834 465556. Kent on Sorn, £1250 Tel. 07962 museum collection in Italy, UK 451493. Surrey V5 present, £3250 Tel. 07734 004323. Midlothian MOTO GUZZI V50 Monza, NORTON Dominator 99, 1961, NORTON 500T 1952, road NORTON COMMANDO 1975, ROYAL ENFIELD Classic EFI 1982, start runs and rides well, immaculate condition, excellent registered, matching numbers, 850cc Mk 2, runs well, needs Redditch green 3500 miles, nice tidy bike, on Sorn, £3250 chrome work, from private £7000 Tel. Bob 07919 064123. only light work, new ignition key excellent, MoT end March Tel. 01526 351746. Lincs collection, ready to ride, V5C, Lancs barrel, new mufflers, new front 2023, p/x iron barrel sixty-five £7950 Tel. 01723 372219. mudguard, a real beauty, £6500 army plus cash £3750 ono Tel. Yorkshire Tel. 07365 297414. Portsmouth 07907 662048. Loughborough SUZUKI GSXR 1100wp, 1994, SUZUKI PE175N 1978, alloy SUZUKI TC185 1976, dual TRIUMPH Thunderbird Sport, TRIUMPH Bonneville, 1977, 19,601 miles, was a street tank new plastics (including range gearbox (5 low, 5 high) 1998, MoT, 13,427 miles, mods Silver Jubilee Special Edition, fighter project that was never spare plastics, rear shocks and with electric start, bike has had include Kawasaki swingarm, factory certificate, matching completed most of original bike parts catalogue) runs well, forks rechromed, along with bespoke rear set footrests, numbers, 7517 miles, V5C, free is there, brand new Dunlop historic vehicle, £3500 ono Tel. new tyres/tubes chain/ overboard clip-ons, Triumph delivery Tel. 01723 372219. tyres & powder coated wheels, Tony 07928 851541. Surrey sprockets, £1800 Tel. 01442 single seat, £3950 Tel. 07930 North Yorkshire £1800 Tel. Mick 07830 319109. 862057. Bucks 479584. Lincolnshire TRIUMPH Daytona 750, 1993, TRIUMPH Tiger 100 s/s, 1964, TRIUMPH T150V Trident, 750cc, TRIUMPH TIGER 100 superb, TRIUMPH TIGER T110, 1959, vgc throughout, fully matching numbers, scarlet/ 1974, 20,000 miles, V5C, nice 1957, pre-unit 500cc twin, runs & rides but really needs a refurbished with many new silver, extensive restoration, clean unrestored, mostly original extensive history during 8 years strip down and redo, large rear parts, runs and rides really well, new wheels and tyres, silencers, riding bike, CV carbs, electronic ownership, receipts photos rack, completely original bike, new MoT, 63k miles, £2500 Tel. seat electronic ignition, £5950 ignition, recent steering head running well, free delivery £6500 Tel. 07365 297414. Nick 07525 373753. Surrey Tel. 01723 372219. North bearings, £7250 may p/x Tel. arranged, £8950 Tel. 01723 Hants Yorkshire 07876 704268. Norfolk 372219. Yorkshire VELOCETTE Viper 350cc, YAMAHA Rossi Rep, 2006, YAMAHA Fazer 1000, 2001, YAMAHA DT250 1973, 5800 YAMAHA RD250 1979, fully 1960, good condition, but not 600cc, immaculate condition, 24,000 miles, 2 owners, good miles, V5C, matching numbers, restored a few years ago, vgc, it run for 6 months, please phone no marks, no dents, 6000 miles overall condition with sensible nice condition, recent engine has been left a while so now for more details, £5750 ono Tel. only, Sorn, p/x possible, £4300 upgrades including screen, rebuild with new piston & barrel, could do with a set up and carb 01453 842632. Gloucestershire Tel. 01992 700913. Essex hugger, braided brake lines and mains, pump, 12 volt conversion, clean, £6350 Tel. 07941 silencer, £2350 ovno Tel. 07910 electronic ignition, £4400 may 096518. Email. peter.wright6@ 977455. West Yorkshire p/x Tel. 07876 704268. Norfolk talk21.com Essex YAMAHA SRX600 Super YAMAHA XJ600N 1995, one YAMAHA XS Eleven Special YAMAHA YR5, 1971, great YAMAHA YZF R6 5EB, 1999, Single, Japanese import family owner since 1998, new 1979, USA import, 20,000 ride, lots of new parts, needs a 20,000 from new, new MoT, full manufactured 1985 wearing a C MoT, bike running, has been miles, very rare, lovely original little more restoration, comes dealer service history, new plate, current mileage standing for some time, new condition, electric start and with XS750 Yamaha as a chain, sprockets rear disc, 11,000km, very good condition, battery, 28462 miles, £1870 Tel. kickstart, rides beautifully, project, £5000 Tel. 01797 pads, totally original machine MoT, £2100 Tel. 07814 907455. 07710 872166. Oxfordshire £5250 ono Tel. Paul 07787 366441. Kent with standard exhaust, £2750 Derby 563712. Plymouth Tel. 07905 615968. Torquay www.classicmechanics.com / 79

readersbikes&bits BOOK YOUR AD NOW! online www.classicmechanics.com post Fill in the coupon on page 77 email [email protected] For Sale HONDA VFR750 red, 1997, GRIMECA 4LS front brake CLASSIC MOTORCYCLE SUZUKI GSXR400R 37,000 miles, work in 2022 230mm nos fitted in Akront Japanese import, clutch lever BSA BANTAM Villiers bike, includes but is not limited to: alloy rim, £750. Tel. 01227 wanted for impending and brake lever components Honda TL125 C90 Suzuki full service, with all oils, fluids 272164. Kent. included. Tel. 07719 980100. GT wanted or any other bike and filters, electrics checked YAMAHA CT1 175 c/cases, retirement project, consider Staffs. upto 350cc in any condition, over totally, brakes and forks side cases, 1971, stator, SUZUKI GS750 wanted by good price paid. Tel. 07983 stripped and rebuilt, exhaust rotor, muffler end piece, any machine in any condition, VJMC member. Tel. 07803 301756. system removed and £30. New conrod kit, £10, BUELL XB12SS late 2009, cleaned, head stock bearings RSX steel side panel £10. British or Japanese, 360124. Wiltshire midnight black, extras two replaced, tyres replaced New RSX con rod kit £10. YAMAHA 1972, 360 RT2 keys, one owner, service 500 miles ago, chain and RSXI00? head and barrel good price paid by keen trials bike indicators wanted, history, tyres as new, good sprockets replaced 2000 score in bore, may need new or used. Tel. 07719 condition, low dry miles, miles ago, single sided attention, £15. Spanish Amal buyer. Tel. 07983 301756. 980100. Staffs. newish battery, garaged, swingarm renovated, rear carb from Ducati 350, £15. YAMAHA ATY80 left side £4500 ono. Tel. 07867 subframe painted. Tel. 07581 Mikuni 38mm 2str carb, Manchester. crank case outer cover 846474. South Yorkshire. 212432. £10. Norton 88/99 new std plus any other spares for HONDA BROS 650 1988, KAWASAKI 1967 A7SS pistons Hap Jones, with pins, CLASSIC OR VINTAGE same. Tel. 07538 047943. very reliable and economical, Avenger, rotary valve 2T, no rings, dual valve pockets Lincolnshire. really nice bike to ride, phone rare fast bike, US import, to suit either way round, £50 MOTORCYCLE wanted for more details £1200 UK registered, excellent all plus postage. Tel. 01394 Miscellaneous ono. Tel. 07896 309775. chrome, desert sun faded 279113. Suffolk. for my retirement any bike Middlesex. paint, workshop manual, FLOWLINERS B10-RUST HONDA CB250K2 1971, spares lists, some new and from 1920 to 1980 in any Flowliner armour coat fuel full restoration project 80% used spares, £5250 ono. Tel. tank liner brand new never complete, all major work 07594 506435. Kent. condition, Brit or Jap pay opened cost £71 will accept completed, only electrics NORTON 50 1957, excellent £29 (collect or post). Tel. and smaller exterior parts condition and runner, good price. Tel. 07432 07787 525198. needed, detailed photos unrestored, original age FRONT & REAR mudguards available on request, £1750 related, new 6 volt wiring 566835. Cheshire. for Honda CB450 K0/K1, ono. Tel. 07836 364027. loom fitted and new battery refurbished and painted in Email. [email protected]. some spares, manual log CLASSIC PROJECT wanted satin silver, £200 plus p&p. A HONDA CB400/4 1975, book, £4500. Tel. 01245 bank of 4 Keihin race carbs restoration project, bike 361358. Essex. BSA Bantam, Honda C90 suitable for the Honda MC14 is 80% complete it needs SUZUKI TS250 1978, V5, on engine from the CBR250RR, exhaust system and carb Sorn, stood for 18 months any other British or Japanese these are immaculate except rebuild, new parts on the bike will need recommissioning for some damage to one of front tyre, rear shocks chain priced to sell, £1000 no bike up to 500cc wanted, the plastic bell mouths, £500 sprockets £2500. Tel. 07927 offers, will need collecting plus p&p. Tel. Brian 07746 245949. Derbyshire. from Hertford Tel. 07859 pay decent price retirement 969866. Northern Ireland. HONDA CBF1000A (ABS), 745554. HONDA CBR600F4 Fours, 2006, silver, 66,724 miles, YAMAHA RD350LC 1981, project. Tel. 01514 470147. Haynes Workshop Manual, average condition, runner, matching frame and engine 1999 to 2002, hardback, current MoT, top box and numbers UK bike needs Wanted Cheshire. unwrapped, unmarked, rack included, fairly recent work, £7000. Tel. 07752 unused, £6.95 as new new tyre, discs and pads 502447. HONDA DAX 70cc monkey condition. Tel. 07399 359072. (rear), contact for more Canterbury. information, or to arrange Parts For Sale ANY CLASSIC bike wanted with fold down HONDA HAYNES MANUAL viewing, £1695. Tel. 07763 new Honda 350F, 500 Fours, 638300. Sussex. HONDA 360 various engine MOTORCYCLE wanted bars, good condition etc £10. Honda VT500 custom HONDA CD175 1977, parts for sale contact for genuine Honda Manual, 24,000 miles, all original details. Tel. Richard 07848 any classic motorcycle for or Sky Team Dax 125cc/ £15. Honda CB450 twins, good condition chrome a 917218. Lincolnshire. Haynes Manual, 1965 on, bit pitted on silencers and HONDA BROS 400 1989, my retired father, anything Chinese copy, standard £10. Honda CB750, CB900 wheel rims but mechanics great basis for project, DOHC Fours manual, £10 all and paintwork very good, already dismantled, £300 considered, good price condition cash waiting. + post. Tel. 01926 770198. registered as historic vehicle ono. Tel. 07896 309775. Warwickshire. tax and MoT exempt, photos Middlesex. paid. Tel. 07799 529325. Tel. 01244 545412; 07922 MAGAZINES: over 20 emailed on request, £1950. HONDA TL250 Trial engine years of Classic Motorcycle Tel. 01546 606297. Scotland. complete striped, £395. Merseyside. 080580. Flintshire. Mechanics magazines, all HONDA CL350 imported Honda NS400R tuned in good condition, make me from USA 2020, all original barrels with heads std bore, ARIEL LEADER/ARROW HONDA TWIN single or an offer. Tel. 07969 790245. including exhaust, paintwork, £400. NSR250 CDI PGM Leics. chrome, 6500 miles, cannot II, £100. Cagiva Alazzurra 1959, gear change lever. smaller four wanted for a MOTORBIKE MAGAZINES: verify but bike is very clean 650cc, CDI Coils, £180. 80 copies, Fast Bikes, and tidy, 1972 K4 model, UK Mudguards clocks, spares. Kawasaki W650 2000/2004, restoration project, any Practical Sports Bikes, Bike L reg suffix, new tyres and Tel. 01283 509381. Staffs. Mechanics, Ride Bike, open battery, runs and ticks over HUSKY / KTM expansion rear wheel engine 670/800cc. older model any size eg CB/ to offers. Tel. 01325 628292. nicely, photos emailed on chamber exhaust, brand Durham. request, registered as historic new, part 554 05 109 Tel. 01245 478144; 07932 CG125, CB250/350/400, MOTORCYCLE vehicle, £3250. Tel. 01546 000. Listed KTM 250EXC, RESTORATION TOOLS 606297. Scotland. 300EXC, Husky TE250, 981499. Essex. XL125/250, CB400/450/500 can’t continue restoring due HONDA CL350 1973 US TE300, £135 (cost over to house move so full range model, V5C, historic, 3000 £300). Nos alloy rims BSA BANTAM or Villiers etc, finished my last project of tools including Sealey miles, runs, lots of new various sizes £75 each hydraulic ramp available for parts, excellent condition, Akront and Borrani road engined bike wanted for a and looking for next, will sale on reasonable terms, dry stored, red, need space, and off road. Tel. 01794 individually or as one sale, £2650. Tel. 07753 366127. 323073. Southampton. restoration project, finished travel. Tel. 07538 696157. contact for a full list with Glasgow. KAWASAKI KH250 front prices. Tel. Fraser 07836 ROYAL ENFIELD 700 VAX wheel with disc, axle, my last project and looking Leicester. 364027. Interceptor, one of approx 170 spacers and speedo drive, YAMAHA FJR1300 2010 made & shipped to USA Feb front forks and chain guard, for the next, will consider MOTORCYCLE FRAME Bagster tank cover and 1960, verified by REOC, no all good useable condition, Minea tank bag, £45. papers, non runner, very rare, £150 plus postage, can older Japanese two stroke, for a 1966 T120R Triumph Ventura light guard, new, £3750 for more info, £3750. be collected, will split if £15. Pannier liner bags, Tel. 07594 506435. Kent. enough interest. Tel. 07910 MZ or similar, will travel, Bonneville or any 60s T120R new, £30 or £75 the lot 977455. West Yorkshire. buyer collects. Tel. 01225 your price paid. Tel. 07538 from 1963-1970, must have 435449. Wiltshire. 696157. Leicester. the V5 document with it. Tel. BSA BANTAM Tiger Cub, 07365 297414. Hants. CB175, C90 or any other PUCH MAXI NSU Quickly, bike up to 350cc wanted in cycle master, winged wheel, any condition, good price Honda express etc or just paid, can collect. Tel. 07398 parts. Tel. 07790 168224. 052043. Leicester. West Midlands. CENTRE STAND for Honda SUZUKI DR400 twin shock CB450K1, chrome front parts wanted, anything guard for same and set considered, including of shrouded rear shocks. complete/incomplete, Tel. Brian 07746 969866. runner/non runner. Tel. Northern Ireland. 01305 826670. Dorset. CLASSIC BIKE wanted by SUZUKI TS400 parts retired engineer (toolmaker) wanted, anything looking for project anything considered, including considered any make complete/incomplete, standard or project or Special, runner/non runner. Tel. 2 stroke or 4 stroke would 01305 826670. Dorset. love a Special to keep my TWO STROKE wanted for a hands busy, will pay cash and restoration project any size/ travel anywhere, thanks for make, either British eg BSA, your help. Tel. 01613 350497; Francis-Barnett, Greeves 07931 557018. Lancs. etc, or any older Japanese CLASSIC BIKE wanted BSA or European bike eg MZ/CZ, Bantam upto a big Triumph all offers considered, will in any condition, good price travel. Tel. 07538 696157. paid, consider anything. Tel. WANTED NORTON 07398 052043. Notts. ATLAS 750 engine parts, CLASSIC MOTORBIKE will consider a complete/ wanted for my bored retired incomplete engine. Tel. father, anything considered, mobile 07443 051543; home good price paid, will travel 01305 826670. Dorset. anywhere. Tel. 07799 WANTED RIGHT HAND 529325. Merseyside. side panel for a 1981 Suzuki CLASSIC MOTORCYCLE TS250ER, ideally red with any size motorcycle wanted no bits broken off, I also by enthusiast, can be in any need a flywheel cover and condition or incomplete, sprocket cover. Tel. 07713 cash waiting. Tel. 07811 457897; 01736 787887. 189755. Cornwall. 80 / classic motorcycle mechanics

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Tightening one of the anti-vibration mounts for the centre loom. Project Kawasaki Z900 Stock bike part 14 WORDS AND PICS: RALPH FERRAND Bad vibes! This month Ralph starts by illuminating his tail… but first he talks about bad vibes, man. Last time I was waxing An articulated quarter-inch drive 10mm socket is lyrical about the quality perfect for doing up the tail-light nuts. of the vibration-beating rubber damping systems that are to be found all over what was Kawasaki’s flagship motorcycle. To be fair most Japanese motorcycle manufacturers considered tackling vibration to be key to providing the end user with a comfortable and, above all, reliable product. The British manufacturers had cracked ‘affordable’ and even reasonably brisk bikes, but if those from the Land of the Rising Sun wanted to sell in volume, they needed an edge. Most British bikes marked their territory with lightly used oil and had electrics that could only be relied on to be fallible. Most electrics came from Lucas, whose poor quality was legendary, spawning that infamous truism, ‘Electric by Lucas, the Prince of Darkness’. 82 / classic motorcycle mechanics

Not wanting moisture on the top side of the mudguard, I seal Using a professional ratchet crimping tool to fit the 2.8mm the wiring coming through the grommet with RTV silicone. It terminals to the light wires. doesn’t look pretty but it will keep the upper side dry. For most folks, their bike was not just Zed, that a massive pattern parts industry Sliding the female terminals into the their passion but their sole form of has sprung up to satisfy bikers’ desire for 2.8mm mini-connector. transportation so, however great their bike the bouncy stuff. looked and sounded, if it made them late works well at protecting such connector for work as a result of electrical gremlins, Having gone to such pains to mount the blocks. Dielectric grease is the more they couldn’t pay the HP on their steed tail-light with the finest anti-vibration traditional method, but I have never found and it all started to go pear-shaped. mounts seen on any vehicle, for some any issues with either. Not all waterproof inexplicable reason, Kawasaki decided to greases are as benign as Corrosion Block The Italians produced some seriously join the wiring for the tail-light on the and many may attack plastics and rubbers. sexy and often quick bikes, but these, too, inside of the mudguard with three bullet were dogged by reliability issues, making connectors, where all the wet and crap Although not done by the OEM back in them little more than playthings for the from the road will be directed at them. I’ve the day, I like to finish either end of the well-heeled. Because the British bike never got my head around the logic of this PVC sleeve with some heat-shrink sleeve industry didn’t see why vibration control and so decided that I would put a which helps dissuade water getting into was fundamental, bikes of the day had three-way 2.8mm mini connector in the the loom. Where the tail-light sub-loom parts fracture due to undamped vibration, tail-light mounting below the light, so that exited the mudguard, through the causing components to fall off. The the unit could be removed without grommet, I lathered it in RTV silicone to Japanese bought into vibration control dragging a load of cable out, and then run ensure that if the bike does get ridden big time and the elimination of it resulted the three wires in a piece of 6mm PVC through any water, then it will stay in their vehicles being synonymous sleeve inside the mudguard and then out underneath the mudguard and not start with dependability. through a grommet where it could join the messing up the wiring. indicator wires and be fed into the six-way When restoring a bike approaching 2.8mm mini connector that plugs into the 50 years old, one has to be mindful that main wiring harness. rubber becomes hard and brittle. To this end you need to budget what it takes to Although pretty sheltered under the replace most, if not all the rubber dampers tail-light, I packed the female terminals on the bike, if you have any thoughts of with plenty on ACF-50’s Corrosion Block riding it any distance. You wouldn’t ride on grease to ensure that no moisture would old tyres, right? Well, some have entered get into the joint and compromise the my workshop with old tyres on… With rarer connection. I could have used dielectric bikes, sourcing damper rubbers can be a grease, but the Corrosion Block was problem, but such is the following of the immediately to hand, so I used that; either Squeezing ACF50 Corrosion Block grease into the connector. Making the rear sub-loom for the tail-light and indicators. The green left indicator wire needs to be cut to length and have a 2.8mm female terminal crimped to it. www.classicmechanics.com / 83

The five terminals are fitted into their I like to finish the end of the PVC sleeve Crimping a female bullet with a ratchet block connector in the correct positions with a bit of polyolefin heat-shrink crimp tool. ready to mate with their opposite sleeve. Here I was using the big heat number on the main loom branch. gun before Laser produced a mini-heat gun specifically for wiring (See Tool of the Month, November 2022). The black with a yellow tracer wire is The new windings are a snug fit so need gentle persuasion with a hardwood block negative earth all over all Kawasakis. Why and a hide-faced hammer. can’t all manufacturers agree on using the same colours for each service? Honda has been removed and these wires not three yellow AC phase wires pass through. don’t even keep the same colours from one resealed properly. A successful I have found that even if an engine was model to another! The two earths from the professional restorer once told me that charging before an engine rebuild, once indicators were joined up with the black/ once they start leaking at this point they you have removed the original alternator yellow from the tail-light and run to a will never be dry again. This is not true. I windings from the casing the disturbance six-way 2.8mm mini connector plug that have changed dozens of alternator usually prevents continued reliability. fits into the main wiring harness. The blue windings on these bikes and I have yet to When I’m doing a resto I change the reg/ for the brake light together with the rear have one leak, since I developed my rec and windings as a matter of course; light red wire were also run to the mini system for sealing them. As with anything that way I know I’m starting from a good connector through a piece of PVC sleeve involving sealing stuff, cleanliness is of place. Electrex World supply me with with the green and grey positive feeds for paramount importance and leaving any oil British-made parts which are reliable and the indicators. Annoyingly, for a sailor, or grease on the parts is bad. better for the British economy and the they chose to use green for the left and environment than shipping cheapo parts grey for the right. On boats green indicates As they are freely available, I would not from China. starboard, or right to land lubbers; consider reusing the grommet that the consequently, whilst I can always remember that grey and green are the indicator colours, I can rarely remember which is which. I always use a decent professional crimp tool to fit the terminals, because as is often the case, this tool is not a good place to save the price of a round of drinks. Once the terminals are all fitted then they are pushed into the connector in the positions of the corresponding wire in the socket in the main loom. If you put one in the wrong hole, then you will need to break out the correct terminal release tool to get it back out again, but it’s not a big issue, unless you don’t have a terminal release tool. A common problem with old Zeds is a minor oil leak from the joint where the alternator AC phase wires exit the engine. Invariably this is because the alternator The three M5 cap screws securing the winding dosed up with The new alternator AC phase wires are pushed through the new thread-lock and seal before being installed. grommet. Once in, the round void was filled with RTV silicone. 84 / classic motorcycle mechanics

The casing space for the grommet is filled with RTV silicone. The underside of my ‘special’ tool was coated with furniture wax to prevent the silicone sticking to it. It is shaped for the three wires to exit... just! My ‘special tool’ is bolted in place. Note that the wires are completely sealed in RTV silicone as they exit the casing. The winding formers are a tight fit in the I forgot to photograph this one once cured, but here’s the same off a different Zed, casing and if they are a tad reluctant, I tap showing the leads cast into the silicone for a perfect seal. them in using a piece of hard wood as a drift, moving around the circumference, furniture polish to the bottom face so that I tend to leave it at least overnight to fully gently tapping the wood with a hide-faced when it is attached the RTV it will not cure before removing the ‘tool’. Using this hammer, ensuring that the part is going in stick to it. The little alcove in the casing method, I have never had a subsequent straight. Never hit the copper windings or that accommodates the fancy grommet leak, so I swear by it. I still coat both sides there will be a multitude of wailing and should be filled with RTV – the more the of the gasket face with Wellseal before gnashing of teeth. I always apply a dab of better, within reason. The grommet is then refitting the alternator to the engine, as thread lock and seal to the three M5 cap pushed into its home and the wires pulled with all casings. These engines are screws securing the component. to ensure that there is no surplus inside seriously aged now and need to be that could foul the rotor. pampered if they are to remain continent I use some fine wet-n-dry paper to and the use of an accurate torque wrench remove any vestiges of mould release My ‘special tool’ is then fitted and this to tighten the machine screws is even agent from the parts of the grommet that ensures that when the RTV sets it will be more important than ever. cmm need to be sealed. I clean and degrease perfectly flat, in line with the casing face. the full length of each wire with brake cleaner or panel wipe as well as the casing and grommet. I feed the wires into the three holes in the grommet. There is a big blind hole on the inside of the grommet and I fill this void with RTV silicone before the wires have been pulled all the way through. That way, when the last of the wire is pulled through it will drag some RTV into the holes to help the seal. I have made a very primitive ‘special tool’ to aid the next part. It is a tiny off-cut of 3mm signmakers’ aluminium composite board Dibond. The advantage of Dibond is that it is lightweight, easy to fashion and as a laminate tends to be more rigid than a similar-sized piece of aluminium. It has two holes drilled in it and a filed exit to allow the wiring out (see photos). I apply www.classicmechanics.com / 85

Project Suzuki S32 part 3 WORDS AND PICS: PIP HIGHAM Man or mouse? The S32 (or ‘Little Black Bike’) is now in one piece; time to see if anything works, and will it actually run? Any clues as to the With the main components all pretty More abuse! Starter push button wiring various injuries to the shipshape I’ve only got to bolt on the squished by Mr. Bodgitt. Little Black Bike: well silencers, fill the gearbox with oil and give obviously I don’t know, but the various fasteners the once over. I’ve gears and ease the back brake on a touch I’m guessing that it’s made had the tank full of Diox for a few days to give the motor a bit of work to do. contact with a tree stump or hard ditch and after a thorough rinse, first with sometime and then probably gone over, stinking hot water and then with paraffin, After 20 seconds or so of intermittent landing on the bars and then the rear-end. I’m happy to see clean bright steel and no braking the motor clears its throat as the The repairs, such as they were, might rust or other unwelcome gunge. I leave it build-up of assembly lube dissipates. The have been done on a shoe-string; quite to air in the sunshine for a morning before emissions from the silencers which at first how it rode with the front wheel so far out I replace the tap. resembled a four-alarm fire, clear to a of whack can’t have been good. But I can gentle blue/gray haze – just what the well imagine that the wobbling front end With the tank and seat replaced and a doctor ordered. plus a very iffy rear wheel alignment fresh battery installed, it’s showtime. I’ve sealed its fate. It certainly wasn’t used for got a bit of pre-mix in my test tank so fuel some considerable time after. Unless its on, choke on and ignition switched on, I status as a mouse house of multiple tap the button... to my surprise and occupation qualifies, I think there were a delight the motor cracks up and in a few lot of mice living the good life in that seconds my shed is full of zing smoke. I frame for many happy years. Bless ’em. open up all the doors and with the bike on the stand I can run it gently through the 86 / classic motorcycle mechanics

Manky baffles with about 30 per cent flow capacity. Chain and sprockets, new ‘uns left, scrappers on the right. Baffles post BBQ, back to OEM flow capacity. But, as ever, there’s a problem. The I hate those meeces to pieces! But why do they do this? electrics are doing some very strange things; the charge light is flickering like an Oh we do like analogue: £4 Random page out of the manual. They didn’t tell you old school disco; and nothing works on the cover, but I think it not to drink the battery acid or stick your fingers in properly apart from the horn and the cost me £25 and it was the spokes back then, just how to measure gearbox ignition. I’m puzzled. I’m delighted that it worth every centime. end float and big-end clearance... proper stuff! runs, but a bit miffed at the more-or-less complete loss of electrical function. Is the Mechanical voltage control, starter Doesn’t get much simpler than this, little generator kaput? Have I cocked up regally solenoid and bags for spare fuses and speedo with a charge light to tell you if with the oh-so-simple wiring loom? I spare main jets, just in case you need that mechanical voltage control has decide to check continuity through the to swop the jetting when you’re out for eaten the peach. Come on, it’s Japanese! main harness. I’ve seen examples where a tootle! No problems on that score at all... ever! the harness has broken down due to constant flexing, and hence work hardening, of one or more cables invariably around the steering head. Obviously this area is subject to flexing of the harness every time the bars are turned; worth a check, I decide. With my little multimeter set on continuity (buzz for continuity, silence for open circuit) I identify and uncouple each of the colours in the main harness in turn; testing is quick and very informative. Straightaway I find two wires, brown and red with green tracer that are misbehaving. I pop the harness out of the frame and, lo and behold, two wires chomped neatly through, presumably by the previous occupants. I berate myself harshly for not spotting this schoolboy error, but hey, we’re all nearly human. I splice new lengths of correctly- coloured wire, carefully staggered, into place and fit glued shrink over the repaired bits, then a fresh piece of loose-fitting PVC over the front 400mm of the entire harness, exactly as the original. With all connections made I was pleased to see that all systems functioned correctly and best of all, as I increased engine revs gently from idle, the charge light faded away and remained off, only www.classicmechanics.com / 87

Simple solutions: Put humane mouse traps all around your Suzuki S32 in the garage... The lusty power unit... well, about 14bhp on a good day, any It’s a lifting handle, and yes it works like a charm. Mind you, at road. about 110 kilos it’s never an issue either to put on the stand or shuffle around the shed. returning again at low engine revs. etc., combine to make it one of the AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery. I’m pleased to report that the Little easiest-to-ride bikes ever created. It’s light Plenty of poke to run the starter and and comfy and the engine set up gives a maybe a set of heated grips later on. Black Bike rides really well and exactly as very soft delivery from virtually no revs. I expected, like a Bloop with a foot up its Whilst these traits won’t endear the bike to Laugh if you want at the fully enclosed bum! The electric-start is great; the brakes the more spirited amongst CMM’s readers, chain, but it works, chain stays clean are light and have lovely feel. The it gives me the ideal machine on which to and so does the back of the bike, result. simplicity of the process, thanks to the ‘no examine the back roads that criss-cross frills’ controls, fuel tap, choke mechanism, the Trough Of Bowland, just a stone’s throw from our kennel. Front stopper: I’ll rephrase that. ‘Retardation device’, but given that I I suppose it might be nice to have don’t go fast ever on this the brake is positive oiling à la ‘Posi-Force’ but I can perfect, smooth, light and moderately manage to pop a bit of oil into the tank effective. occasionally. Maybe I’ll fit some indicators in the coming months; I’m sure I can do that without fouling up the simple appearance that I’ve really come to like quite a lot. Would I want to go careering off down the M6 on a Thursday morning on it? No, not a chance, its roots lie predominately in an age before motorways, or that internet, and definitely before ‘NOS’ was even a thing, but for my purposes it does exactly what it says on the tin. It ambles along at a pace that allows me to smell the hedgerows and catch a glimpse of the clouds as they scamper over Beacon Fell on a crisp October morning. cmm Bit of a Suzuki gimmick back in‘t day, little clear plastic pipe That silky little motor again; little two-stroke twins are gives an instant measure of gas in the tank, again a perfect amazing, try one, you’ll love it. example of a simple solution that just works... love it. 88 / classic motorcycle mechanics



AND Subscribe to Classic Motorcycle Mechanics and four lucky subscribers will be entered into a draw to win one of these great prizes! As long as you have an active subscription, your unique subscriber ID will be entered into our monthly draw to win one of a number of brilliant prizes!* This month, there are four fantastic prizes up for grabs! As well as our usual Key Collection goodies, represented this month by the Weise Montana 150 Gloves, worth £119.99, we have a Bruhl MD1400 Single Turbine Dryer, worth £119.99, cool Tamiya kit and a Bridgestone Oxford Products Oximiser 3X worth £69.99, with a combined worth of almost £350! Here are our prizes for YOU in this A Bridgestone Oximiser 3X. February issue of CMM... Bridgestone has been making brilliant tyres for decades, so why not see what’s available for your A Bruhl MD1400 worth £119.99. For streak-free classic at: www.bridgestone. drying of your pride-and-joy classic, you really need co.uk/motorcycle-tyres look no further than the Bruhl MD1400, which is one of a range of great Bruhl dryers: www.bruhl. co.uk/collections/motorcycle-dryers These Weise Montana 15 Gloves, worth A model kit from Tamiya £119.99, will provide maximum warmth worth £30-50. If you want for minimum bulk over the winter months, to build your own classic in thanks to the 150-gram Thinsulate miniature, you can’t find a Supreme lining, which is secured with better model kit than Tamiya, McFit Technology, so it won’t pull out when which are imported into the you take them off. Find out more at UK by: www.hobbyco.net www.weiseclothing.com This month four of our readers your favourite classic motorcycle will walk off with one of magazine… and ensuring great these great gifts, but no value EVERY month. Find out more matter what the prizes, subscribing about our subscription details on is still the best way to get hold of the next page. *All current subscribers will automatically be entered into the prize draw each month using their unique subscriber number. To opt out of the competition, please email [email protected] Competition closes 15/03/2023. There are no cash alternatives available. The winner will be the first name drawn at random. Terms and conditions apply. To view the privacy policy of MMG Ltd (publisher of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics) please visit www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

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Project Yamaha YL1 part 3 WORDS AND PICS: STEVE COOPER Sooty and sweep! Additional problems take the strip-down off into a parallel universe full of soot and carbon. It’s sleeves up time now and 1 was inside this engine was some 15 years we’re going to get the ago and the anti-seize compound wiped on motor out of the frame I learnt long ago never to assume that the cylinder studs has repaid me in spades hopefully. old nuts and bolts will automatically yield so let’s get the motor out shall we? to a spanner and socket so everything that I’ve been checking the needs it has had several dousings of Photo 1: The right-hand-side engine case spares situation, buying the parts I know penetrating fluid. Oh, and the adjustable that only went back on recently has been we’ll need for the engine strip and locating C-spanner needed for the exhaust ring removed and placed out of harm’s way. I the parts that may be needed on the collars has been located. The carburettors really don’t want to be damaging that when assumption that the crank may need a full have been loosened on their mounts, the I lift the engine out of the frame. overhaul. It really is quite amazing what is cylinder head nuts and washers removed still available for old motorcycles if you’re and the top-end lifted off. The last time I prepared to do the legwork. The internet and social media in particular are potentially good hunting grounds so I now know where to go for rod kits, piston pins and the like. There are companies on line that are making individual gaskets for pretty much any YL1 application so I’ve grabbed what I think I’ll need (base and case gaskets) along with some others that may come in handy later. When you see stuff like this brand-new and for sensible money you’d be mad not to grab it if the bike is a keeper. I’ve also been rooting through the plastic stacker boxes in the far corner of the workshop and found some YL1 parts I’d forgotten about so hopefully we’re prepared for most eventualities. 92 / classic motorcycle mechanics

3 22 45 6 Photo 2: The front engine mount has 7 Photo 8: I’m not a big fan of using broken repaid my investment in prior lubrication rings to clear out the lands and prefer to use and the two bolts removed from their 8 an old toothbrush and/or a brass brush in half-century-old resting place. The front Photo 7: Sometime later but the same my trusty Dremel. engine mount is also part of the removable week most of the goop comes off with a down-tube which has been swung forward little gentle persuasion from an abrasive www.classicmechanics.com / 93 to aid access. pad. Photo 3: The two rear engine mount bolts undo easily, allowing me to get the motor out the frames and on to the bench. Fortunately the motor isn’t heavy so it’s a one-man job. Photo 4: Time to get side-tracked again then! The piston crowns are covered in carbon and there’s what looks to be a lot of blow-by on the sides of the pistons. Everything was brand-new when I rebuilt the top-end all those years ago so what’s going on here I wonder? Photo 5: There’s also evidence of oil under the crowns of the piston and lots of sticky tar around the rings so everything gets a good soaking in thinners hopefully to soften the deposits. Photo 6: Just how bad can a low-mileage two-stroke piston be? The rings were fun to liberate as well.

10 Photos 9 and 10: A lot of the carbon deposits on the piston crowns are stuck firm so it’s out with the big guns. A session with some Oven Pride, wearing gloves and safety specs finally has the crud on the run but it was bloody tenacious stuff. Some more TLC finally has both pistons looking fit for further service. 9 Photo 11: More elbow grease, solvent, 11 metal polish and time get the corresponding carbon out of the cylinder The ex-racer/retired dealer’s heads. At least there’s no sign of detonation expert opinion so it’s rewarding to know the ignition timing and air/fuel mixtures are correct. “Well that’s a novel issue,” said the well, semi-synthetic to be honest. sage specialist, Steve Linsdell. “My guess is that it’s never truly Photo 12: With nothing obviously wrong “That’s exactly what I’d expect to bedded in and the rings have been I’m doing the basics to see if I can see if you had a worn bore, rings gliding over the bores rather than determine why there’s so much apparent and/or piston. Leave everything with making strong physical contact like blow-by and piston and ring coke build-up. me and I’ll have a good look for you.” they should,” the expert opined. So The rings are set up true in the cylinders both cylinders were accurately and individually measured for clearances at A week later I was standing in his honed and I left with a strong various points in the bore. workshop listening to his words of recommendation to run the bike in wisdom. Just like my initial analysis on a decent-quality mineral oil rather Annoyingly, after a morning’s worth of he, too, couldn’t find appreciable than anything too fancy. And just as measuring, checking and rechecking I wear on any of the items. The only I’m leaving there’s a final insight: genuinely cannot find a single thing wrong issue was the bores that looked “Oh, and if I were you I’d have a look with the rings or the bores. Likewise, the glazed but not to a high degree. The at the seals in your motor. All that pistons seem fine with no discernible only conclusion that made sense was sooty oil on the undersides of the untoward marking and no signs of scoring that the pistons and rings hadn’t pistons looks like you’re burning or marking. With no obvious reasons for properly bedded in when I first gearbox oil to me.” Yes, I know, I the apparent excessive carbon build-ups rebuilt the top-end all those years bloody well know. This is where it all I’m getting a second opinion on the ago. “Are you using high-end oil?” started from. Damn two-strokes! situation and consulting someone who said the man who’s won TTs. I had, understands strokers intimately and can accurately measure for bore and piston wear. Of course, that means I’m going to get potentially side-tracked (again) but what’s the point in taking shortcuts when it comes to the bikes we love? cmm 12 94 / classic motorcycle mechanics

Just in case you hadn’t got our subtle visual hint, spring is just around the corner... so with the ‘new motorcycle season’ almost upon us, now is the ideal time to think about preparing your bike. We’ve put together some top picks of businesses whose friendly experts will help you more smiles in your miles!



Next month IN YOUR MILDLY RESTORED CMM! HONDA CB400 FOUR: Honda’s sweet middleweight – by Steve Cooper BMW AT 100: Alan Dowds gives us his choices for classic BMW ownership PAINT YOUR WAGON: Ralph Ferrand concludes his series on how to get a professional paint finish on YOUR classic... DREAM MACHINE: How the professionals do it! BRIDGESTONE/CMM BIKE OF THE YEAR: Another reader’s machine… PROJECT BIKES: We will be showcasing some of the following (space allowing): Bertie Simmonds’ Aprilia Tuono Fighter, Pip Higham’s Yamaha SDR200 and Suzuki S32, Alan Dowds’ Kawasaki ZRX1100R Turbo, Mark Haycock’s Honda ST70, Steve Cooper’s Yamaha YL1, perhaps Steve ‘Stavros’ Parrish’s racing Yamaha TD2B, and Jeff Ware’s Suzuki GSX-R750F. Ralph Ferrand may be back with his Project Zed, David Punshon’s Honda CB750 DOHC, Malc Shaw with his Suzuki TR750, and maybe Taylor Mackenzie’s Yamaha TY80 and Paul Berryman’s Honda CBR600F-N. Let’s not forget Dave Marsden from Z-Power and his ‘Goose’ Mad Max replica. AND MUCH MORE! DON’T MISS IT!* WIN!tOhMexwDkiaSm1eoa‘u4yknirbsL0ctideeths0ortcgol£tSlraieue1ifibnncrtr1’setdg9nifr,loYaereTsaononwaTcm.udmBcuarTro:‘nirs-iSy.bswd!uha’whigknwoiekirewnasitwtstDsBo.U…frrnosyuerehOrlh, April issue on sale: MARCH 15 *The editor reserves the right to completely mess up the above flat-plan (as he did last month) in a bid to give you the best mix of 1960s, 1970s, 1980s and 1990s machines and fettling tips! To preorder your next issue of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics head to classicmagazines.co.uk/pre-order-cmm Alternatively, scan the QR code on this page and order your next copy today. We will send it directly to you!

cmm Pip Higham Tuner, engineer, rider Rare as rockin’ horse poop! Please accept my apologies for the post-war wannabes tardiness of this, my befuddled view of October Stafford. (DKW: Deutsche John Kocinski chatted, at length, with a crowd that was obviously familiar with his Kraftfahrzeug Werke, or amazing CV, and outside some old blokes rummaged around in piles of irony-ally for German Motor Vehicle elusive bits for their obscure projects, or maybe they were just rummaging. But Works.) Its owner, Gerry that’s what I love about Stafford, from the wonderful (but slightly bizarre) Ascott, also had Sunbeamists to the wonderful (but totally hat-stand) LC appreciation mob... and yes, another rather unusual they are nuts! bike tucked away in the It’s that passion for any number of diverse interests. A stunning little Yamaha VJMC brew room. I 90 twin rubbed footrests with a CBX. Heidi Cockerton’s AS50 sneaked, like a looked at the bike, mischievous 12-year-old, into the line-up of 99 point Yams and Kawasakis; but Heidi’s sporting tank badges little 50 is 100 point perfect, and received the appropriate award. But what a task for that required an the judges. I looked at dozens of bikes whose owners scratched their heads in advanced knowledge of puzzlement that they weren’t deemed good enough to get a rosette. Japanese calligraphy to In my opinion the task of making those make any sense. It was choices is an unenviable one. Personally, I take my hat off to each and every one of an EK200 (no, me you that made the effort to find the bike, source the bits, then negotiate with the neither). Whilst other welder, painter, upholsterer, blaster, wheel builder, et al, then spend hundreds of Hondas of that period hours being ‘meticulous’, whatever that means, and then spend two-and-a-half days were branded as a in the Transit Hotel at Stafford... you all deserve a blinkin’ medal! ‘Benly’ or ‘Dream’, the Gerry Ascott with his EK, a utilitarian home amazing EK200; not many of One that took my eye was a 1955 (yes, market only machine, these in a fortnight! Photo really, 1955) 125 Yamaha YA1 cloned off didn’t score a catchy credit: Mr. Herve Morvan. the DKW/Billy Bantam that spawned many moniker. Shame, as it The twins, Arnie and PORC definitely deserved one! After reading the story on the header card, it appears to be the Anorak questions the front mudguard rivet only one in existence; it’s a pre-Honda configuration on your 3.5bhp Grindley Motor Corporation Honda. To put this in Peerless (Alpine version) or the thread form context, there isn’t even one in Honda’s on the choke lever bracket of your utterly Motegi museum – in my book, that’s rare. beautiful 350 GTR Kawasaki (another The quality of the work carried out to do puzzlingly rosette-less exhibit). In Gerry’s it justice is, I’m choosing my words case the simple response to any naysayer carefully here, exemplary, simply stunning. who might have the temerity to question Finding a unique feature on any bike is any aspect of the EK200: ‘No problem, just always fun, like the uber-complex lever/jet/ show me another.’ crank/butterfly arrangement on an RE5 carb For my part, I took ‘The Twins’ – my or the Hi/Lo gearbox arrangement on a few version of a couple of old Ducatis that, early Suzuki trail bikes, the EK does not whilst looking vaguely similar, are anything disappoint. Leading link forks? Seen ’em. but. The little ’un is a 125 (it’s really Voluptuous valanced mudguards? Same. 160cc but don’t tell anybody) and the other But the semaphore trafficators? For is my PORC bike, Aha Bertie! I’m ahead of those of you unfamiliar with some you and I’m ready with my explanation for 1950s motorcars, they had flimsy little that four-letter acronym: Pile of Rusty Crap! arms that pinged out from the side The 250cc (or thereabouts) bigger brother pillar whilst simultaneously emitting a was in a pretty grim shape when I bought it vague amber glow from the three-watt and one of my waggish chums, on seeing festoon bulb contained within. Those me drag it’s dented and battered sheet fitted on the HK were a first for me. metal work hulk, missing all sorts of Operated mechanically by a pair of vaguely important stuff, out the back of my cream-coloured knobs adjacent to the van, asked: ‘What in the wide world of steering head, the little illuminated sports are you gonna do with that pile of arms flipped out of their wonderful rusty crap?’ The name stuck, and after little hidey holes on command. many hours and much cash haemorrhage It can be a touch annoying if Arnold the bike turned out reasonably well. cmm 98 / classic motorcycle mechanics