Wanderlust UK 08.09 2022_downmagaz.net

� Taking The Road Less Travelled Since 1993 August/September 2022 £5.95 WONDROUS USA 22 > �URBAN ESCAPES • YELLOWSTONE AT 150 • WILDLIFE HOTSPOTS 9 771351 473133 Shackleton’s South Georgia Ticino Vibrant Bogotá New Zealand The untamed Azores New Marrakech Micronesia Jordan’s Bedouin























VIEWFINDER Río Lagartos, Yucatán, Mexico Photographer: Claudio Contreras One of the great wildlife spectacles of Mexico is Yucatán’s Río Lagartos Biosphere Reserve. Every year, some 30,000 Caribbean flamingos gather here for nesting season (Mar– Jun), settling on the estuary in great luminous pink clouds. Here they build sandcastle-like mounds to keep their eggs warm, stalking the shallow salty water for the brine shrimp that makes up the bulk of their diet. By September, the birds tend to have moved further down the estuary, but that just means longer, more scenic boat trips to find them as you chug deeper into the dense labyrinth of mangrove- entangled islands. When you do reach the colony, the first thing the strikes you is the colour. Newborn chicks emerge as grey balls of fluff; they only acquire this rich, deep pink as adults by virtue of the pigmented algae they ingest. Certainly, shots such as this make you realise why it’s worth the effort to find them – and perhaps also why the collective noun for these regal-looking birds is a ‘flamboyance’. © Claudio Contreras/Nature Picture Library

Al Balad, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia Photographer: Matthieu Salvaing The beating heart of Jeddah is its UNESCO-listed Al Balad neighbourhood, celebrated in this new book by James Parry. It was here that wealthy merchants commissioned lavish homes, building them ever higher because the old city walls (now long gone) meant they couldn’t expand outwards. Today, visitors stroll beneath its soaring tower houses craning upwards at the intricate and colourful rawashin (latticed balcony windows). But even these are in danger. Despite attempts to preserve Al Balad over the decades, many of its buildings now lean heavily, so an ongoing project geared at saving those in the worst condition is welcome. With the country’s visa-on- arrival scheme now reopened, we can’t wait to explore this historic area knowing that its future has finally been secured. © Matthieu Salvaing. Jeddah Al-Balad by James Parry (Assouline; £70) is out now; eu.assouline.com

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VIEWFINDER The Red Sea, Saudi Arabia Photographer: Jeanette Hägglund For all that the opening up of Saudi Arabia teased travellers with the possibility of visiting Nabataean ruins and mud-built cities, we were just as excited to dive into new stretches of the Red Sea. Egypt’s share of this coral-filled inlet has long been cherished by divers; the chance to now explore reefs across the water was a prospect not to be missed. One surprising upshot since then has been that, with the development of the Saudi coast, new discoveries are being made: a giant 600-year-old coral colony was recently found off Al Waquadi Island. Steps are also being taken to protect these waters, something that Christopher Smith has touched on in his book, Red Sea: The Saudi Coast. The restoration of miles of coastal mangroves and the creation of the country’s first biosphere reserve at Farasan Island are helping to preserve the sea for everyone. © Jeanette Hägglund. Red Sea: The Saudi Coast by Christopher Smith (Assouline; £70) is out now; eu.assouline.com













































SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL Mothering earth Holly Tuppen explores how travel can support one of the world’s greatest climate crisis mitigation tools: empowering women Back in 2020, the independent climate research recruits also help shape itineraries, ensuring that they organisation Project Drawdown listed empow- support the needs (including those of women) of local ering women and girls in developing countries communities in the long term. as the second of 76 solutions for curbing global warming. The project estimates that providing Large travel businesses are showing leadership too. Through its non-profit partner, Planeterra, G Adventures girls’ education and family planning could decrease carbon invests in community projects, including several involved dioxide equivalent emissions by 68.9 gigatonnes by 2050.  in gender equality. In one of its most popular destina- It makes perfect sense when you consider the ripple tions, Peru, trips support aWomen’sWeaving Cooperative effect of access to education, family planning and birth owned by 46 local women and positively impacting 440 control, as slower population growth relieves stress on local people. Similarly, tour operator Trafalgar’s new ecosystems and reduces emissions.The report also found Women’s Only Tours invite guests to meet and support that women in rural areas are more likely to farm sustain- female makers, producers and entrepreneurs, such as ably, cultivating a greater variety of crops that support Marta Cuccia, a fourth-generation weaver in Perugia, biodiversity and are resilient to climate change, rather Italy, and the Iraq Al-AmirWomen’s Cooperative, which than planting monocrops purely for profit.  makes pottery, soap and fabrics in Jordan.  Alessandra Alonso, managing director of Women in  Hotels can also facilitate meaningful change. On the Travel, an organisation that both tiny island of Sumba in Indone- trains and supports disadvantaged “If you want to have sia, Maringi Ecolodge doubles women to fill multiple roles in the up as a hotel school, training hospitality industry, explains: a positive impact, locals to ensure they benefit from “Women, globally, not only sit at seeking experiences the island’s burgeoning tour- the heart of communities but are ism. A recent graduate, Angeline educators. They teach children that empower women is Lamunde, sums up its benefits about the impact of the climate nicely: “Previously I was afraid of crisis and the importance of a great place to start” dreaming, but now I’m a person respecting our planet. It is impos- dreaming big!” And in London, sible to divorce female empowerment and inclusion from Inhabit Hotels works withWomen inTravel to offer disad- sustainable development.”  vantaged female jobseekers a four-week placement and When you consider the role that travel can play in making mentoring, an invaluable opportunity for refugees, immi- a positive impact, seeking experiences that empower grants or single mothers struggling to find work.  women is an excellent place to start.As with all responsible Lastly, over in Sri Lanka, on the wild, coastal edge of tourism, look for empowerment and long-term thinking Yala National Park, housekeeper Thushari Priyangika is Girl power Tours supporting rather than handouts.There are certainly plenty of options. enjoying her new role at the green-minded hotel Jetwing female-led businesses in Social enterprise tour operator Eternal Landscapes Yala. “This job means the world to me, as my husband places such as rural Peru (top) and Mongolia is a beautiful example of what’s possible. lost his job during the pandemic. Now I am the sole Mongolia (bottom left) offer travellers Having spotted how difficult it is for women to get on breadwinner,” she explained. Thushari’s job is part of a chance to help local entrepreneurs the ‘circuit’ of guides that dominate tours in Mongolia, Jetwing’s new drive to provide roles for middle-aged hit hard by the pandemic and Eternal Landscapes runs a free training programme for women eager to pursue new careers post-pandemic and the economic downturn Mongolian women seeking work in tourism. Whether post-child-rearing. So far, the hotel group, which oper- joining the training to find economic independence, ates throughout Sri Lanka, has provided training and learn new skills or gain confidence, Eternal Landscapes employment to 20 women. It’s one step among many is proud to say that all its guides are female.These keen heading in the right direction. REALITY CHECK: POST-PANDEMIC STRUGGLES  Financing women through our travel choices is even more critical as destinations recover from the economic after-effects of the Covid-19 pandemic. As Zina Bencheikh, managing director of EMEA for Intrepid, explains: “The pandemic disproportionately impacted women working in travel because many of them work in informal roles and have no access to government support.” Intrepid’s ‘Women’s Expeditions’ is just one example of a trip offering local women not just financial support but making a meaningful connection – and there are others out there. 40 August/September 2022

JOURNAL Empowering women through travel Alamy; Conservation South Luangwa Janet Sakala is a 35-year-old ranger working for HELPING Conservation South Luangwa’s (CSL) K9 Unit. She tells AFRICA’S us why having the opportunity to become a ranger in WOMEN Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park changed her life. Work is being done across “I became a ranger because of my love for nature. Africa to empower women I have wanted to protect Zambia’s wildlife since to work in travel. We shine childhood… but I lost my parents when I was 15 years a light on a handful of the old, and life was never the same again. Everything businesses and foundations changed, to the extent that my sister, brother and shaking up the stereotypes. I could not go to school for some time. Fortunately, things went back to normal when I started working for CSL. After spotting that they were looking Female guides for new recruits, I was selected for a three-month paramilitary training course. I am now the household breadwinner and able to support my relatives. I am Recognising that women one of CSL’s eight K9 Unit detection dog handlers. We are a special team are under-represented in because of how unique our work is. Thanks to the dogs’ sense of smell, we can the scores of expedition detect illegal wildlife products, such as bushmeat, animal skins and ivory, no leaders ascending Mount matter how well hidden they may be. What may take humans hours or days Kilimanjaro, tour operator to find, the dogs sniff out in seconds. This makes us one of the most effective Exodus Travels has set anti-poaching teams working in the area. I am so proud of this work.” up the Mountain Lioness We spoke to Janet via Holly Budge, founder of World Female Ranger Week Scholarship, which enables (worldfemalerangerweek.org), which salutes women working to protect nature. ten women to graduate as mountain guides each year. All-women camp Working life is dominated by men in Tanzania, particularly in rural areas and in the tourism sector. By becoming Africa’s first all-women-run safari camp, the Serengeti-set Dunia (asiliaafrica.com) not only provides an opportunity to the 23 Tanzanian women it employs, but challenges the wider industry at large. Anti-poaching In 2019, the Zeitz Foundation launched East Africa’s first All-Women Anti- Poaching Ranger Academy at Segera Conservancy in Kenya. To date, 27 female rangers have passed the intensive training.  Girls’ education  Some 83% of women in rural Morocco are illiterate. Most never had access to schooling, which is why Education for All (run by Intrepid’s foundation) arranges safe boarding and nutritional meals for girls to attend school beyond their primary years. So far, 50 of its students have enrolled in further education. www.wanderlustmagazine.com 41

WANDERSLEEPS New Zealand’s green stays Whether going off-grid in a glass pod, staying on a working farm or living among the trees, these eco-friendly  escapes will get you back to nature Reviewed by Gareth Clark 42 August/September 2022

JOURNAL New Zealand NEST TREE HOUSES, WAITAKI, SOUTH ISLAND Hidden among the branches of a hilltop forest overlooking the Hakataramea Valley lies a treehouse stay that feels more like a boutique escape. Floor-to-ceiling windows stare out across the valley, a cedar bathtub sits snugly on the outdoor deck and a private treetop sauna offers a dash of off-grid decadence at this adults-only retreat.There’s also plenty nearby to keep you busy, with farm and vineyard tours affording a taste of the area’s rural charms. And come nightfall, you can just lie back and contemplate your place in the universe – the site lies on the edge of Aoraki Mackenzie Interna- tional Dark Sky Reserve. This summer also saw the owners open a second treehouse, so you’re now spoilt for choice. Treehouses from £251pn, including breakfast; nesttreehouses.com CROSS HILL LODGE AND DOMES, LAKE HAWEA, SOUTH ISLAND Plush geodomes scatter the shoreline of Hawea, one of the less- er-visited lakes wrappingWanaka. It’s certainly a setting designed to charm the camera lens, thanks to the area’s U-shaped valleys carved tens of thousands of years ago by departing glaciers. The domes Touching the stars Cindy Mottelet; Cross Hill Lodge; Fold in the Map offer plenty of home comforts, with floor-to-ceiling windows, plush Nest Tree Houses lies on double beds and even a small kitchenette. It’s a cosy affair, and the edge of a Dark Sky Preserve, and on a clear the camp’s lodge even dishes up meals fresh from the farm. A few night you can make out constellations unique to the relics of the area’s gold-mining past survive on the slopes above, Southern Hemisphere but the appeal here is nature. It’s out paddleboarding on the quiet lake waters or relaxing outside in a wood-fired outdoor hot tub that Cross Hill earns its restorative reputation. Domes from £205pn, ⊲ including breakfast; crosshill.co.nz www.wanderlustmagazine.com 43