BBC Good Food UK 07.2022_downmagaz.net

weekend Cherry bakewell tart, p102 JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 101

Cherry bakewell tart until combined. Add the ground 5 MORE IDEAS almonds and eggs, then beat for The amount of water the pastry 1 min more until you have a thick, SWITCH UP DEEPER NOTES Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist LIBBY SILBERMANN needs will depend on how fresh the spreadable paste. Will keep chilled THE FLAVOURS For extra flavour, toast Stylist SARAH BIRKS flour is. Make sure the water is for up to a day. Remove from the The pastry can be the flaked and ground ice-cold and add it gradually, just fridge an hour before needed. flavoured to suit the almonds in a dry frying until the pastry comes together. 3 Roll the pastry out on a lightly filling. For fruit tarts, pan, then leave to cool floured surface to the thickness of you can add lemon, before using. SERVES 12 PREP 40 mins plus a £1 coin. Use it to line a 23cm fluted lime or orange zest, 1 hr chilling COOK 1 hr 10 mins tart tin, leaving some overhanging or for custard-based SAVOURY PASTRY MORE EFFORT V the rim. Chill for another 30 mins tarts, add a splash of For veggie tarts, make or put in the freezer for 20 mins. vanilla extract. pastry using 150g 2 tbsp black cherry conserve 4 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ butter, 300g plain or cherry jam gas 6. Prick the pastry case all over SUMMER flour, 1 beaten egg with a fork, then line with a large BAKEWELL TART and a pinch of salt, 300g cherries, pitted circle of baking parchment. Fill with Follow the same then bring together as 25g flaked almonds baking beans and bake for 20 mins. methods for the pastry directed in step one. clotted cream, crème fraîche or Remove the beans and parchment, and frangipane filling, If the filling contains then bake for 10-15 mins more until but adapt the tart with meat, I often swap vanilla ice cream, to serve the pastry is biscuity brown. Remove different seasonal half the butter For the pastry from the oven, trim off the excess fruits. Try using the for lard. 200g plain flour, plus extra using a serrated knife, then leave same quantity of to cool slightly. destoned and halved for dusting 5 Spread the cherry conserve or peaches, nectarines 100g ground almonds jam over the base of the tart, then or apricots, or try 50g golden caster sugar spoon in the frangipane filling and raspberries or cored 150g cold butter, cut into cubes gently spread to the edges. Push and sliced pears. 1 egg, beaten the cherries into the filling slightly, For the frangipane filling then scatter over the flaked almonds. QUICK ICING 150g softened butter Bake for 45-50 mins until the If you like, mix 3 tbsp 150g golden caster sugar cherries have sunken into the tart icing sugar with 2 tsp 150g ground almonds and the filling is deeply golden and lemon juice or water 2 eggs, beaten set. Leave to cool completely in the until you have a thick tin, then remove to a serving plate or icing, then drizzle this 1 First, make the pastry. Tip the flour, board and cut into slices. Serve with over the cooled tart. ground almonds, sugar and a pinch clotted cream, crème fraîche or a of salt into a bowl. Use your fingers scoop of vanilla ice cream, if you like. to rub the butter in until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Drizzle in PER SERVING 495 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 14g • the egg, then slowly mix in up to carbs 36g • sugars 22g • fibre 1g • protein 10g • 2 tbsp ice-cold water until it comes salt 0.5g together into a dough. Shape into a disc, wrap and chill for 30 mins. Will keep chilled for two days. 2 For the filling, beat the butter and sugar together with an electric whisk DISCOVER THE WEEKLY BBC GwOitOhDToFmOKOeDrridPgOeDCAST Subscribe AND DON’T MISS MY PODCAST SERIES Join Tom and guests sharing their experiences, tips and funny stories PLUS listen to the bonus Let’s Cook Together episodes and find out how to create inspiring dishes 102 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

weekend MY FAVOURITE DISH LEYLI HOMAYOONFAR’S KHORESH-E GHORMEH SABZI Although she’s made her name with Leyli Homayoonfar is one of life’s irrepressible US-Mexican street-food brand Bab Haus enthusiasts. The 36-year-old chef has worked in south Wales, Leyli’s favourite comfort in pro kitchens for almost two decades – in food harks back to her Iranian roots restaurants, cookery schools, developing supermarket recipes – and the creative ‘buzz’ of cooking is still words TONY NAYLOR recipe photograph JONATHAN GREGSON ‘addictive’. It is, she says, ‘the only thing I really love’. Today, Leyli runs Bab Haus, a US-Mexican street- food brand operating in Caerphilly and Barry, close to her native Cardiff. Inspired by the food of Los Angeles and Texas, Bab Haus is renowned for its low ’n’ slow smoked meats and birria tacos, made using ex-dairy beef. But, the original source of Leyli’s fascination with food lies not in America, but Iran. Leyli grew up in an Iranian-Welsh household obsessed with Persian food: ‘As a family, we’re known for cooking and parties, which was passed on to me with my friends.’ Prior to Bab Haus, a wildly successful lockdown pivot, Leyli ran Persian catering company Leyli Joon & Co (her younger twin sisters Sophia and Soraya work alongside her). Persian cooking is an aspect of her work she is now keen to revive, possibly under the Bab Haus umbrella. ‘Whatever is cooked over fire, that’s Bab Haus, basically,’ says Leyli. ‘At Easter, we did a Persian barbecue pop-up and it sold out. ‘In my family, everything revolves around food. Growing up, it was central to daily life. The house was regularly full of Iranian relatives and, as kids – there are four of us with our elder brother – we ate around the table every night, often with our extended family, sharing stories, gifts and suitcases of Persian dried fruits, nuts and saffron that people brought over for us. We loved it. ‘Both my parents are fantastic cooks. They’re from completely different backgrounds. Mum was one of 11 kids in a working class Irish family in Cardiff, ➜ Above: young Leyli with her Iranian grandmother Kobra JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 103

weekend while dad’s from a more upper-class Iranian FIVE KEY PERSIAN INGREDIENTS background. Both their mums taught them Saffron ‘Used in so many dishes, from how to cook – and mum developed a real khoresh (stews) to desserts. But, don’t use too much. It’s expensive Mum passion for Persian cooking. (historically, using saffron was ‘We ate mainly Persian at home. Dad’s a sign of wealth), and it can have an iron-y taste. A small pinch anddad proud of his Iranian heritage and often his gently enhances a dish.’ hadthis stories revolved around food. I only speak Advieh amazing a little conversational Farsi but, if it involves ‘Like garam masala or Chinese repertoire food, I know what I’m talking about. five-spice powder, this is the standard Persian spice blend, ‘Salad Olivieh, a much-loved Iranian take made up of, among others, rose petals, cardamom, cloves, ofrecipes on Russian salad, was a centrepiece at family cinnamon, cumin and coriander. It’s the base of many Persian parties. It’s potato salad with roast chicken, dishes, but you might also sprinkle it over yogurt or gently warm it in gherkins, carrots, peas, lemon, mayonnaise butter and have that over rice.’ and boiled egg. Mum would make this for us Barberries ‘If you go back to Tudor times, instead of a birthday cake, decorated with these small, tart berries were a British ingredient, too, but were, gherkins and sliced tomatoes to make a flower presumably, phased out as other berries took over. Barberries are pattern or spell out “Happy birthday”. At parties, friends still huge in Iran, mainly in rice dishes. Cooked with sugar and orange ask, “Has your mum done salad Olivieh?” peel, their sourness mellows into a lovely jammy flavour.’ ‘My family also loved a celebratory Persian barbecue with Pistachios koobideh (kebabs of minced lamb and onion), saffron-and- ‘Not being biased, I’d say Iran produces the best in the world: yogurt-marinated chicken joojeh, lavash flatbreads, charred bright green, awesome flavour and used everywhere, from Persian tomatoes and onions, and steamed rice dressed with saffron candies to rice dishes.’ butter. The dip, mirza ghasemi, is essential. It’s coal-roasted, Sumac ‘A hugely popular, important charred aubergines that are peeled and cooked with tomatoes, ingredient. It’s a citrus berry akin to dried limes, used in various saffron and garlic – my paternal grandmother, who as kids we dishes as a lightly sour, lemony seasoning – often to cut through called Nanny Irani, would put a whole bulb in. It’s on every fatty meats.’ Persian menu I do. Everyone loves it. ‘As kids, we all adored khorak-e morgh with morasa polo. Chicken thighs are roasted and braised with turmeric, saffron, cinnamon, butter, orange juice, garlic and shallots, and served with what’s called “jewelled rice” – baked rice studded with pistachios, almonds and barberries, cooked in a spiced butter made with orange peel and saffron. It’s sweet, tart, savoury and very pretty with the ruby red barberries, orange peel, rose petals and herbs. Generally, Persian food is a very aromatic, gently spiced cuisine, using lots of herbs and dried fruits. ‘My favourite dish – Iran’s national dish, too – is khoresh-e ghormeh sabzi, a broth-like stew of braised lamb shoulder with kidney beans, dried limes, fenugreek and fresh herbs. The citrus cuts the fat so it’s incredibly light and tasty. ‘When mum was pregnant with me, she was really craving khoresh-e ghormeh sabzi, but dad didn’t know how to make it. He had to ask friends over to prepare it, which took hours. Maybe that’s why it’s my favourite.’ babhausmex.co.uk @thebabhaus Above, from left to right: #GFLetsCookTogether cooking at a supper club in Tonbridge, Kent; Leyli Share your recipes, tips (blue jumper) with her and photos with us family; cooking with her dad in Bruton, Somerset 104 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

weekend Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist AMY KINNEAR | Stylist JO HARRIS Khoresh-e ghormeh sabzi 2 Heat a flameproof casserole over a batches. Fry for 5 mins until the tip Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS (Persian herb, red bean medium-low heat for a few minutes herbs are dark green (this removes & lamb stew) before adding 2 tbsp oil. Season the moisture and deepens the flavour). Serve with thinly lamb and sear on all sides until 6 Once the lamb has braised for sliced red onions, SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus 1 hr golden brown, then remove to a 1 hr, add the leek and herb mixture chelo ba tahdig soaking COOK 3 hrs 30 mins plate. Fry the onions over a low along with 250-500ml hot water to (steamed Persian MORE EFFORT heat for 8-10 mins until soft loosen, stirring well. Braise for a saffron rice with and translucent. further 2 hrs, or until the lamb is tahdig crust) and 100g dried red kidney beans 3 Drain and rinse the soaked kidney completely tender and falling off maast-o museer 3 tbsp vegetable oil (or other beans, then add them to the onions the bone. Add a dash of hot water (yogurt with along with the turmeric and dried to loosen if the sauce has thickened Persian shallots, light oil) limes. Stir to coat in the spiced too much – I prefer it to be almost garlic and mint). 4 lamb shoulder shanks oil, then return the lamb to the broth-like, but that is personal casserole. Pour over 1 litre water, preference. Season to taste (a good (roughly 900g) or enough to cover the lamb, and pinch or two of sea salt is essential) 2 medium onions, chopped bring to the boil. Cover with a lid, and, depending on the acidity from 1 tsp ground turmeric then turn down to a simmer. Leave the dried limes, add a squeeze of 6 Persian dried limes (available in the lamb to gently braise for 1 hr. lime juice for a fresh finish. 4 Put the coriander and parsley in some supermarkets and online) a food processor and blitz to chop GOOD TO KNOW healthy • calcium • folate • fibre • 100g coriander finely (you can also do this by hand, vit c • iron 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free 400g parsley but the finer the herbs, the better PER SERVING 627 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 8g • 1 leek, trimmed and finely chopped the stew’s flavour and consistency). carbs 28g • sugars 8g • fibre 26g • protein 50g • 11/2 tbsp dried fenugreek leaves 5 In a separate frying pan over salt 0.4g a medium heat, fry the leeks in the (kasuri methi) remaining 1 tbsp oil for 6-8 mins 100g chives, finely sliced until softened. Stir in the fenugreek squeeze of lime juice, leaves, blitzed herbs and chives – it is sometimes easier to add these in to taste (optional) 1 Put the dried red kidney beans in a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and leave to soak for 1 hr. JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 105

Exclusive subscriber offer SAVE 40% ON A SPECIALLY Verdejo CURATED CASE – SEE PAGE 34 FOR MORE OFFERS Each month Henry Jeffreys showcases a new grape variety – this month, Verdejo. Plus, get a great deal on a case of summer whites Verdejo, not to be confused with verdelho, is a grape from Needtoknow Tastingnotes northern Spain historically used to make fortified wines. But in the 1970s, one producer made a crisp modern dry white Verdejo is thought to have come Verdejo has grassy herbal flavour Wine case photograph DAVID COTSWORTH from it – a sort of Spanish Sancerre. It was a revelation, from North Africa, brought over not unlike Sauvignon Blanc, but delivering an explosion of aromatic, floral, fruity and nutty by Moorish conquerors in the often with notes of satsuma, flavours, and is now considered one of Spain’s best whites. 11th century. It’s grown all over lemon, fennel and almonds, and Castile-Leon in central Spain, but often, a pronounced acidity. Wine Club Star it’s particularly well-known for the wines it produces in Rueda. The old-school fortified style Cala Rey Verdejo Sauvignon 2020 is a bit like sherry, but some Originally, the grape was used producers are now ageing it in Made with grapes grown on the high to make a sherry-esque wine, but oak barrels and stirring lees (the plains of Castil, this blend of the native the Rioja producer Marqués de dead yeast cells), which builds Verdejo with French Sauvignon Blanc Riscal pioneered the modern texture and develops flavours bursts with citrus flavours, rounded off style in the 1970s. To unleash of nuts and sometimes by a creamy almond note. This would be those big aromatic flavours, the honeysuckle. Young, crisp lovely with a fresh Vietnamese rice grapes are harvested at night to Verdejo tastes best cold, noodle salad, or seafood paella. maintain freshness, protected whereas richer examples should from oxygen contact, then be served a little warmer. Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with fermented at a low temperature. the BBC Good Food team, selects all Verdejo pairs well with goat’s of the wines on offer to BBC Good Food A wine labelled Rueda Verdejo cheese, tomato and shellfish, and readers. Henry writes about wine for must be a least 85% Verdejo. those big aromatic types make it The Guardian and The Spectator, and on a great partner for Vietnamese his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. It’s often blended with and Thai food. The high acidity He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category Sauvignon Blanc (see left) – in matches well with battered fish, for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His book, fact, the flavour of the grape is as it cuts through the fat. Richer The Home Bar (£25, Jacqui Small), is out now. like a more exotic Sauvignon examples are a great substitute Blanc – and sometimes with for white Burgundy, and go well Macabeo (also known as Viura), with buttery dishes and poultry. a fairly neutral Spanish grape. A wine for every dish Ever wondered which white wine to match with roast chicken? Or curious as to the best reds for steak night? Get clued-up with Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for a range of wines and impress your friends. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/wineclub. 106 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

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advertisement feature A sweet escape Made with fresh cream, butter and a whole lot of love, Wertherís Originals are perfect for adding a little piece of warmth to your day L et’s face it, sometimes life can feel like an endless TRY A TOTALLY NEW RECIPE GROW YOUR OWN to-do list. So, it’s important to take time to enjoy If you’re a passionate foodie, INGREDIENTS the little things and press pause every once in a nothing will bring you joy quite You’ll be amazed at the satisfaction while. Happily, there’s a Werther’s for that. like trying out a new dish, so why you can get from growing your own not add something new to your ingredients, and you don’t need a Between the irresistibly oozy Creamy Filling, the weekly cooking repertoire? If you huge garden to do it. Tomatoes, salad wonderfully chewy Creamy Toffee and the classic Butter need inspiration, try the tempting leaves and herbs can all be grown Candy, there’s a Werther’s Original for everyone and Werther’s Original brownies recipe indoors, while foods like strawberries every occasion. Why not try them all and see which (see above) that can be found via and radishes can be easily grown in long-lasting caramel is your favourite? the QR code and URL below. pots on a balcony. Of course, enjoying a Werther’s moment is just the MAKE YOUR FAVOURITE CREATE YOUR OWN start. Here are some other ways you can make COMFORT FOOD DISH CHEFíS PLAYLIST your day feel that little bit more heart-warming… It might be an indulgent bowl For many of us, cooking can feel of pasta that’s rich in cream and like a form of creative expression. COOK WITH A LOVED ONE parmesan, or a delicious family So, why not take the experience up Be it your partner or a grandchild, bake that takes you back to your a notch by curating your very own cooking is a great way to connect youth in just one bite. Whatever foodie playlist? Or perhaps you’d with those you love. From choosing it is, everybody has a dish that’s rather unwind with a podcast in the a recipe to the creation – with all sure to put a smile on their face. background? Whichever you choose, the funny mishaps along the way – Make yours tonight – go on, you it should be uplifting and maybe even you can be sure time spent in the deserve it. offer you a slice of mindfulness. kitchen with somebody special will make your day feel better. For more warmth inspiration, or to find delicious Werther’s recipes, visit bit.ly/ werthers-unwind or scan the QR code

Supermarket Drink2s0A2w2 ards Our annual taste test to find the best supermarket spirits, ciders and beers for summer words and adjudication LUCY ROXBURGH photographs HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON Also in the opinion section Matahkoemite Cchoiucnket ynosur Tcohoeklabtoeoskt s We test a recipe from José How fried chicken became A round-up of July’s Pizarro’s new cookbook, p118 a global favourite, p114 top releases, p119 JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 109

T his is our ultimate guide to stocking your drinks cupboard BEST SESSION BEER this summer – and these bottles all come straight from the high street. Whether you prefer spirits, beer or cider, we’ve WINNER found the best supermarket offerings for every occasion. Northern Monk Striding Edge North Yorkshire £2.75 (440ml can), HOW WE DID IT Waitrose & Partners Conjuring up thoughts of beer gardens in the We asked supermarkets to send in the drinks they wanted to nominate for each of our categories. Over three days, our expert sunshine, this has punchy, tropical judging panel taste-tasted 70 products from eight national supermarkets to bring you our definitive list of top buys for fruit aromas. Lush fruit gives way 2022. Judging was carried out blind and overseen by an independent adjudicator. In some categories, the judges to pine and citrus notes. chose to award a runner-up as well as a winner – for the full results, visit bbcgoodfood.com. BEST CIDER BEST FRUIT CIDER OR PERRY WINNER WINNER M&S Somerset oak matured Tesco pear cider £2.20 (four vintage cider £2.50 (500ml 440ml cans) Gentle and floral bottle) With baked Bramley on the palate, this is sharp and apple and leather on the nose, dry, with a hint of sweetness this is pleasantly complex and subtle white grape aromas. and equally loaded with both sweetness and bitterness. 110 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

BEST WHISKY opinion JOINT WINNER Asda Extra Special Islay single malt Scotch whisky £20 (70cl) Our pick for sipping BEST VODKA neat, this has a deeply smoky aroma, slick mouthfeel WINNER and lots of woody, toasted oak flavours. Waitrose triple-distilled vodka £12.75 (70cl) This is very smooth, with a creamy mouthfeel JOINT WINNER Waitrose three-year-old blended and no burn. A good one for cocktails. Scotch whisky £13.29 (70cl) Good for cocktails, this has a light aroma and brown sugar flavours, balanced BEST DARK RUM by slight bitterness. WINNER Co-op Irresistible pineapple rum spirit drink £20 (70cl) A winner for the second year in a row, this has light brown sugar on the nose and hints of tropical fruit led by the pineapple. It’s smooth and mellow to sip, with mild spiciness. JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 111

BEST READY-TO-DRINK BEST READY-TO- TROPICAL COCKTAIL DRINK CITRUS JOINT WINNER COCKTAIL M&S The Marksologist Passion Star martini cocktail £19.30 (500ml) A bottled option in great packaging. WINNER Shake well to bring together – it’s vibrant and sweet, Asda Extra Special with strong fruit flavour to balance the alcohol. margarita ready- to-drink cocktail £8 JOINT WINNER (70cl) This has plenty Aldi Stefanoff passion fruit martini 89p (250ml can) of sharpness from juicy Lots of passion fruit flavour and not too fizzy, this lemons and limes to makes for an easy-to-sip canned choice. counter the sweetness – great with lots of ice BEST READY-TO-DRINK and fresh mint. BERRY COCKTAIL WINNER M&S strawberry daiquiri £2 (250ml can) Vanilla notes are clear on the nose here. It’s lightly syrupy, with just a touch of lime to balance the berry intensity. 112 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

opinion BEST GIN BEST PINK GIN BEST FLAVOURED GIN WINNER WINNER WINNER Tesco Finest The Melodist Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Tesco Finest The Melodist London Dry gin £20 (70cl) limited edition Blackfriars Scottish mango & passion fruit gin This has plenty of herbal, spiced raspberry & rhubarb gin £16 (70cl) £20 (70cl) A surprisingly elegant notes (thanks to the coriander and With heady rhubarb aroma, judges loved option, this smells sweet, but cardamom) that stand up to fresh that this wasn’t too sweet. Tonic enhances when mixed with tonic, floral botanicals. A touch of citrus comes the fruit flavour and botanicals still shine notes come through along through when tonic is added. through in this well-balanced drink. with classic botanicals. BEST READY-TO-DRINK G&T WINNER Tesco London Dry gin & tonic £1 (250ml can) A classic G&T done well, this is refreshing, crisp and natural. JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 113

Melissa Thompson How fried chicken took Our columnist charts its history and creates her own version inspired by the multicultural cooks T here’s no doubt that the BAO Noodle ubiquity of fried chicken Shop in shops on the UK’s high Shoreditch, streets – be they fronted by a London, moustachioed colonel or not – has serves dented the dish’s reputation. But, Taiwanese it’s still one of my favourite foods fried chicken – a dish of such skill and renown, it buns (below) has traversed the world, reflecting the myriad tastes and regional that some believe has roots in the ‘hand-raised’, ‘specially fed’ and variations of different lands. Scottish settlers that went to the produced ‘only once a year in late Americas. Early records show spring through to early summer’. That’s why I wanted to make that chicken was deep-fried in my new video series, The Stories Scotland, and could have made Hers is a pared-back recipe by Behind Fried Chicken (watch at its way to the US, where it was modern standards, with just salt bbcgoodfood.com/friedchicken), to cooked by enslaved people from and pepper for seasoning. But, she delve into the fascinating history West and Central Africa. fries the chicken in pork lard and and cultural importance of it. butter with smoked ham, giving After emancipation, free black the chicken an incredible flavour. The exact point of origin is women earned a living selling fried unknown, but it’s likely an chicken to train passengers in But, rather than be revered for evolution of tastes and influences Virginia – they were known as their culinary skill, black people that combined over centuries. ‘waiter carriers’, as they literally were mocked with racist tropes carried the food to the stations. The most famous iteration, southern fried chicken, takes its Fried chicken was seasonal, too, name from the southern states of cooked in spring when chickens America, where black domestic were tender, as described by the workers – first enslaved, then in late American chef Edna Lewis, employment – perfected a dish who grew up in Freetown in Virginia. Edna described fried American chef chicken as a ‘very special dish’ Edna Lewis made with birds that were helped define southern fried chicken 114 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

opinion over the world Melissa’s recipe (overleaf) takes she met while filming her new Good Food video series inspiration from A good fried chefs she’s chicken recipe is talked to worth the effort Colombian fried chicken at La Barra in London Today, there are so many iterations, there are few places on Earth that don’t have their own version about their relationship to fried Malaysia and Brazil’s frango à in a mixture of flour and cornmeal. chicken. Alongside this, white- passarinho. London, where I live, They’re dishes that share similar owned businesses started making is home to many interpretations. roots but are very different, their own fried chicken, leading to In the first episode of my video crafted and influenced by cultures a disgraceful double standard. series, I visit Bao Noodle Bar in around the world – a mirror of the Shoreditch, where co-founder environments and ingredients of Today, there are so many Erchen Chang double-fries where they were created. iterations, there are likely few chicken that’s been marinated places on Earth that don’t have in soy milk and flavourings. La My fried chicken recipe, their own version. Chicken coated Barra, a Colombian restaurant overleaf, is based on the brilliant in seasoned flour forms the basis in Elephant and Castle, serves chefs who allowed me to see their for southern fried chicken and mouth-watering Dominican pica secrets. It takes time and requires much of what’s enjoyed in the pollo. Keshia Sakarah of Caribe’ in you to start it off the day before, Caribbean. Some now brine it too, Brixton coats her brined chicken but as I’ve learned, a good fried increasing moistness and allowing chicken recipe is worth the effort. flavour to penetrate deeper. Soy sauce, mirin, aromatics and potato starch make Japanese chicken karaage. Taiwanese fried chicken is flavoured in delicious things, then coated in sweet potato flour for crunch. Yangnyeom, a Korean fried chicken recipe, is double-fried and glazed with gochujang sauce. There’s also ayam goreng in JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 115

opinion Try my recipe Fried chicken This is my favourite method for cooking fried chicken. I leave the lid on to both steam and fry the chicken at the same time. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus 6 hrs brining and overnight marinating COOK 30 mins (or longer if frying in batches) MORE EFFORT Recipe photograph MYLES NEW | Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist LIBBY SILBERMANN | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN 80g salt during cooking). When the oil is Watch our new three-part series, 1 whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces ready, carefully lower in the chicken The Stories Behind Fried Chicken using tongs (you may need to do this with Melissa on our (or 4 chicken legs, split into in batches). Cover with a lid and fry BBC Good Food drumsticks and thighs) for 8 mins, then turn the chicken and YouTube channel. 4 garlic cloves, loosely crushed cover again. Watch closely – make You’ll also find a in their skins sure the oil maintains a gentle wealth of recipes 10 thyme sprigs bubble. If it gets too hot, remove the and skills guides. 2 bay leaves lid or leave it ajar. If you have a gas 4 spring onions, chopped hob, turn the heat off before 1 scotch bonnet pepper, cut in half removing the lid, then turn the heat 200ml buttermilk (or plain yogurt back on after replacing the lid. mixed with the juice of 1 lemon) 5 Cook for another 8 mins, then 1 tbsp smoked paprika remove the chicken to a plate. Turn 1 tbsp white pepper up the heat until the oil reaches 180C 1 tbsp onion powder (or test using the bread cube method 1 tbsp garlic powder in step 3), then return the chicken to 1 tsp cayenne pepper the pan and fry for 3 mins on each 200g plain flour side until golden and crispy. If using vegetable oil, for deep-frying a temperature probe, the chicken should be at 70C. If not, cut into one 1 Dissolve the salt in 200ml hot of the bigger pieces and ensure the water, then top up with cold water juices run clear. Transfer to a wire to make 2 litres. When the water rack to drain and keep crisp. Season has cooled completely, submerge the with sea salt, then serve hot. chicken in it. Add half the garlic, the thyme, bay, spring onions and scotch PER SERVING 647 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 9g • bonnet, then keep chilled for 6 hrs. carbs 36g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 54g • salt 1.1g 2 Combine the buttermilk with half the spices and the remaining garlic in a large bowl. After 6 hrs, drain the chicken and add to the bowl with the spiced buttermilk. Chill overnight. 3 The next day, mix the flour with the remaining spices. Fill a deep pan with a few centimetres of oil (you want the oil to come halfway up the chicken while frying it). Heat to 160C, or test it by dropping in a cube of bread. It’s ready for cooking when the bread browns within 30 seconds. 4 Tip the spiced flour into a large shallow bowl. Remove the chicken from the buttermilk, shaking off the excess, and turn it in the flour to evenly coat. Set aside on a plate while you finish coating all the chicken (this helps the flour stick 116 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

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Cookbook challenge The Spanish Home Kitchen by José Pizarro Editor Keith Kendrick gets nostalgic with the acclaimed Spanish chef’s new cookbook In his introduction, José takes you on a journey via his pasta dish, crab linguine. They Pizarro neatly sums up passions for vegetables, fish and were delicious – straightforward how so many of us feel about seafood, meat and sweets. I was to make and packed with crab, cooking: ‘It is so much about particularly drawn to the seafood chilli, garlic and parsley, and memories. I love people, and chapter for the memories it evoked smothered with manchego cheese. creating moments of happiness of fishing with my dad when I was But, each chapter showcases gems together is why I love to cook.’ And little, and of the crabbing fun I had that mean so much to José. there is no doubt that the recipes with my own sons holidaying Girolle & walnut croquetas take – and the stories behind them – in Northumberland. José back to his dad’s vegetable in Spanish Home Kitchen will José says, ‘Memories of fishing garden where ‘walnuts were a type inspire you to create new with my dad are forever etched in of candy to me’; golden lamb memories of your own. my mind. My village in rural Spain cutlets with lemon courgette salad Recipe adapted José, of course, is famous for is located near a long, beautiful is a favourite of his mum’s; and from The his tapas restaurants and TV winding river called the Tajo, and doughnut-like cardamom Spanish Home appearances. But, as much as he we would often fish there together.’ & orange repápalos have been Kitchen by José thrives on the ‘adrenaline’ of his perfected over the years by José’s Pizarro (£27, professional life, he also loves I decided to try José’s crab sister, Isabel. It’s food to inspire Hardie Grant). ‘cooking more quietly at home for canelones (cannelloni). It’s new memories and, as José says, Photographs by friends and family’. This book inspired by José and his partner ‘Memories make happiness.’ Emma Lee. Peter’s craving for their favourite Crab canelones the oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add the flour and cook for 1-2 mins, SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins then gradually stir in the stock until COOK 1 hr EASY you have a smooth, thick sauce. Stir in the cream, grate in some nutmeg, For the béchamel sauce add the cheese and season. Set aside. 45ml olive oil 2 For the filling, heat the oil in a 45g plain flour separate pan over a low heat. Fry the 500ml fresh shellfish or shallot, chillies and garlic for 15 mins. 3 Increase the heat to medium-high, chicken stock add the brown crabmeat and fry 300ml double cream for 1 min, then add the tomatoes grating of nutmeg and stock. Cook for 12-15 mins, then 80g finely grated manchego cheese, take off the heat. Stir in the white crabmeat and tarragon. Season. plus extra for sprinkling 4 Cook the cannelloni in a pan of For the filling boiling water for 3 mins, then drain 60ml olive oil and cool under running water. 1 small shallot, finely chopped 5 Put a spoonful of the crab filling 2 red chillies, finely chopped into each of the tubes, then transfer 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced the tubes to an ovenproof dish. 50g brown crabmeat Pour over the béchamel, scatter 500g ripe tomatoes, finely chopped over the extra cheese, then bake 150ml shellfish or chicken stock for 25-30 mins until golden and 500g white crabmeat bubbling. Serve with a green salad. 15g tarragon, finely chopped 250g dried cannelloni pasta tubes GOOD TO KNOW calcium • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 762 kcals • fat 52g • saturates 23g • 1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/ carbs 40g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 31g • salt 1.2g gas 5. To make the bechamel, heat 118 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

Books for cooks opinion What Fiona Forman is cooking this month MUST-TRY 13 Foods that Shape our World RECIPE (£16.99, BBC Books) Spaghetti alla In the first book from BBC Radio 4’s hit series san Giovanni The Food Programme, award-winning writer Alex Renton delves into the stories behind key staples, including bread, dairy, salt and cocoa. An interesting insight into the history of these foods, this is a great book for bedtime reading. You’ll pick up cooking tips along the way, too, including how to make the perfect roast chicken and buy the best olive oil. Recipe image JOE WOODHOUSE Home Food West Winds by Riaz Phillips (£25, DK) by Olia Hercules (£26, Most of us think of jerk chicken and Notting Bloomsbury Hill Carnival when we think of Caribbean Publishing, out 7 July) food, but food writer Riaz Phillips wants to show it’s so much more than that. There are This book is a personal collection vegan stews, meat curries, raw salads, soups of comforting recipes from all the places Olia has called home – Ukraine, Cyprus, Italy and the UK. A wonderful mix of cuisines, and plenty of dishes made with staple there are fascinating stories and memories behind each dish, from ingredient, plantain. His colourful, exciting nostalgic childhood favourites – including sunshine broth, a healing soup made by her mother whenever she was ill – to recipes are perfect for summer. life-giving rhubarb crumble cake eaten the day after she’d given Must-try recipe Curry vegetables birth to her son. I’ll be starting out with her family’s favourites, including her twists on midweek salads, Sunday roasts and pastas. There are QR codes on some of her favourite recipes linking to videos of Olia demonstrating some of the trickier techniques, including how to roll dumplings, which are very handy. MORE FROM BBC GOOD FOOD On your tablet Podcast Tune in for Download our lively chats Vegetarian interactive app at with the Summer the Apple App Store. Good Food magazine team, Tom Enjoy al fresco Good Food Kerridge how-to videos and Britain’s meals and the Sharpen your cookery best and skills with our videos. Find brightest season’s best over 200 at bbcgoodfood. in food. com/feature/videos. produce with AVAILABLE AT bbcgoodfood.com/podcast meat-free dishes that will please everyone, £6.99. JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 119

Best buys 3 Junior food & reviews writer Maga Flores-Trevino rounds up the best accessories to kit out your kitchen 1 Kitchen 4 picks 52 7 6 8 1 Microplane premium classic zester to a picnic or camping trip. Use it to keep 6 Fern cork tray and grater £21.95, hartsofstur.com unwanted bugs away from your food and £24, loveliga.co.uk Use this sleek stainless steel grater to create bring a touch of British summertime Made from cork harvested once every nine fluffy mountains of Parmigiano-Reggiano style to your festivities. years without felling trees, this elegant tray or fine curls of citrus zest. The colourful continues absorbing carbon dioxide even in soft-touch handle enables a firm grip and 4 Pebbly magnetic toaster tongs your home. Use it to serve snacks or breakfast. makes it easy to spot in a sea of utensils. £8, divertimenti.co.uk These elegant tongs are thin enough to reach 7 Ichendorf Milano duck glass jug 2 San Raphael Wild Flower plate into the depths of your toaster without burning £50, vam.ac.uk £17, arket.com your fingers. Plus, they have a handy magnetic Featuring a charming 3D model duck, this Serve up delicious salads and reveal a handle that lets you store them on the side hand-blown, Italian-crafted glass jug will be a beautiful flower etching beneath to your of your toaster or microwave. talking point with guests. Fill it with sparkling guests. This Portuguese-crafted plate has wine or lemonade for a bubbly pond effect. stunning details and can be left out on display 5 Zoku Mod Pops ice lolly moulds as a decorative piece when not in use. £14.99 (set of six), John Lewis & Partners 8 Dipping bowls Fill these lolly moulds with a smoothie or £8 each, aeyglom.com 3 Eddington food cover lemonade to give the family an easy and Perfect for serving dips, oils or vinaigrettes, £5.50, Fenwick refreshing summer treat. Each mould is these pastel-coloured bowls have a white Dotted with pretty little strawberries, this compact and has a sturdy base that will interior to let your sauces shine. They could collapsible food cover is a necessary addition sit securely in your freezer without spilling. also work for holding tea lights at the table. 120 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

opinion Food 1 picks 2 3 4 6 1 Pasties by Post Words MAGA FLORES-TREVINO by Prima Bakery 5 £16.95 (pack of three), thecornishhamperstore.co.uk JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 121 Made from thick shortcrust pastry with a tasty filling of skirt steak, potato, swede and onions, these pasties from the heart of Cornwall are delivered direct to your door. Ideal for a quick lunch or picnic. 2 Häagen-Dazs Duo vanilla hazelnut & caramel crunch £5.25 (420ml), Waitrose & Partners Made with real cream, this two-in- one tub has vanilla ice cream with chocolate shards on one side and caramel ice cream with salted caramel sauce and roasted hazelnut pieces on the other. Serve in a cone for a summer treat. 3 M&S Collection labneh yogurt dip £2.65 (170g), M&S A basil and mint dressing tops this incredibly thick and creamy strained yogurt, which is finished off with a sprinkling of za’atar. Use pittas for dipping or serve alongside barbecued meats for a luxuriously tangy side. 4 Bonne Maman Sweet Hearts chocolate £2.50 (175g), Waitrose & Partners A vanilla cake with a soft madeleine texture and a layer of smooth chocolate, these heart-shaped snacks are individually wrapped, so they’re great for packed lunches. 5 THIS isn’t pork caramelised onion sausages £2.95 (230g), Tesco From acclaimed purveyor of meat substitutes THIS come these hearty, plant-based sausages that are succulent, with a compact texture that’s fairly close to real meat. They have a slightly sweet caramelised onion flavour that doesn’t overwhelm. 6 Pip & Nut Crosstown Cinnamon Scroll almond butter £3.25 (170g), pipandnut.com Inspired by Crosstown’s Cinnamon Scroll doughnut, this spread has gentle spice and richness. There’s a hint of vanilla and coconut that cuts through the nuttiness of the almond. Spread it over warm toast, or swirl into brownies.

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The cooking stars you won’t want to miss Did someone say VIP? We guarantee you won’t be disappointed by this year’s Big Kitchen line- Add a little bit of sparkle to your day up! We’re delighted to announce the return of Ainsley Harriot – with his with one of our VIP tickets. This is your big personality and fun in the kitchen, be prepared to be entertained! time to be treated like royalty or treat Also joining us are Lisa Faulkner and John Torode, and returning are that special someone with a day out to the fabulous Nadiya Hussain and James Martin to name a few. Check remember. In between all the shopping the website for more announcements coming soon. and entertainment, you can sit back and relax in your very own VIP lounge with a glass of bubbles or enjoy front-row seats to see your favourite chef cooking live. You also have lots of additional benefits, including your own cloakroom, breakfast pastries, shopping bag, show guide and cookbook. Book your VIP tickets today! Meet the finest artisan producers It’s game time Fill those shopping bags with the very best artisan delights, Good food. Good from handmade savoury delicacies, to sweet treats and friends. Game on. Let’s artisan tipples. We have drinks brand Solassa joining us for get cooking with the the first time, showcasing its lower-alcohol alternative spirits, sponsor of the Festive and Show favourite Puckett’s Pickles, joining us again from Kitchen, Eat Game. Yorkshire and certainly one not to miss. No day is complete Returning to the Show, without a gooey caramel brownie – pop over to Northern Eat Game will be Brownies to pick up a box to share with friends (unless you serving up a selection eat them all first). of festive showstoppers. Take a seat in this free theatre and get ready to discover a whole host of alternatives to traditional Christmas meats…who knows, you may even find a new centrepiece. Subscribers save 30%** using your unique 10-digit number when booking | bbcgoodfoodshow.com *15% off valid on standard 1-day general admission tickets. Ends 26/08/21. **Subscribers save 20% on standard general admission tickets when using their unique subscriber number. Ends 28/11/21. Offers exclude Saturday. £3.50 transaction fee per e-ticket order and £4.50 per postal ticket order. Not all celebrities appear on all days. VIP tickets subject to availability. Details correct at time of print. The BBC l*o2g5o% idsisactoruandteismvaarlkidoofnthsetaBndBaCrd. ©geBnBeCra.l TahdemiGssoioondtFicokoedts.trEaxdceludmeasrkVIiPs. u**sSeudbsucnridbeersliscaevnece30fr%omonIsmtamneddariadtegeMnerdailaaCdmomisspioanyticLkoentdsownheLnimuisteindg. tOhergiraunnisiqeudeasnudbspcrreibseernntuemd bbeyr.REixvcelur dSetrseVeItPE. OveffnetrseantdIsm3m1/e0d7/i2a2te. M£3e.9d5iat.ra†Innstahcetioenvefenet pthear tet-htieckBeBt oCrdGeor.oNdoFt aolol cdeSlehborwitieis appopsetpaor noneda,llcdaanycse. Dlleedtaoilsr cRoivrreercSt tarteteimt eEvoef nptrsinat.nTdheImBmBeCdloiagtoe iMs eadtriaddeemeamrkiot futnhseaBfeBCto. ©ruBnBthCe. TehveeGntoiondliFgohotdotfraUdKemGoarvkeirsnumsedntuanndderPliucbelnicceHferoamlth EImnmgleadniadteguMideedliainCesomrepgaanrydLinogndCoonvLidim-1i9te,dy.oOurgwainllisbeedcaonndtapcrteesdendteirdecbtylyImwmithedreiagtearLdivset.oImtrmaendsfiaetrerinLigveyoisutrhebotroakdiinng tnoama efuotuf UreppdearteStorereret EqvueensttsinLgtdaarnedfuRnivde.r Street Events Ltd. These businesses are owned by PImlemaesdeiantoetMe:erdeiafuCnodms peaxncyluLdime ittheed.transaction fee and See Tickets Refund Protection cost.

27ñ29 AUGUST SPONSORED BY: SUPPORTED BY: EXPLORE HENRY VIIIíS PALACE | STREET FOOD | POP-UP BARS| ARTISAN FOOD PRODUCERS | INTERACTIVE WORKSHOPS DRINKS MASTERCLASSES | CIRCUS SKILLS | FETE GAMES | MUSIC | SHOPPING | FAMILY FUN [^〈NN>j0>jbGN{ſtFF^b(N'^ HRPFESTIVALS.COM £3.95 transaction fee per e-ticket order. *Please note: refunds exclude the transaction fee and See Tickets Refund Protection cost. Organised and presented by Immediate Live and Historic Royal Palaces. Details correct at time of print.

BOOST YOUR cooking skills Get confident in the kitchen with tips and advice from the Good Food team Watch our skills videos THIS at bbcgoodfood.com/videos MONTH We love to see what you’re making, too: share your recipes on our BBC Good Food Together Facebook page and on Instagram #wearebbcgoodfood How to make madeleines, p126 Spice up a margarita, p132 Pick the best BBQ cuts, p134 NS UE XMTMLEERVPEAL V L OVA A spotlight on oaustathioswfyitnogmlyackheecwriyspcemnterrei,npg1u2e8 triple-cream Find cheeses, p131 with & Five of the best pizza ovens, p130 JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 125

WEEKEND PROJECT French-style bake Makeabatchofthesedelicate bite-sized cakes, then serve warm for a stylish afternoon tea Madeleines fluffy and tripled in volume. EXTRA TOUCHES Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director EMMA WINCHESTER | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist SARAH BIRKS Whisk in the flour and a pinch of Other photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, FLOORTJE/E+/GETTY MAKES 8 PREP 10 mins salt, then the 50g melted butter. Brown butter After you’ve melted COOK 15 mins EASY V 2 Spoon the mix into the buttered the butter, continue to simmer until it holes of the tin. Bake for 8-10 mins, turns light golden brown – this will give 50g butter, melted then cooled or until puffed up and golden. Turn slightly, plus extra for the mould out onto a wire rack and leave to your cakes a nutty flavour note. cool slightly. Madeleines are best 1 egg eaten warm, but can also be served Glazed Melt apricot jam with a little water, 50g caster sugar cold. Will keep in an airtight then brush over the warm cakes to glaze. 1 tsp honey container for up to two days. 50g self-raising flour Floral Add a few drops of rosewater or PER MADELEINE 111 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 4g • orange blossom extract to the batter 1 Heat the oven to 210C/190C fan/ carbs 12g • sugars 7g • fibre none • protein 2g • gas 6 and brush eight holes of a salt 0.2g for a delicately perfumed bake. madeleine tin with melted butter (if you have a six-hole tin, you’ll need to bake in two batches). Beat the egg with the sugar and honey using an electric whisk until pale, 126 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

SALMON + LIQUORICE Fish and the mild aniseed flavour sekaisllys of fennel – or anise-flavoured Discover more YES, IT WORKS! liqueurs and star anise – are BBQ classics at a classic pairing. Used in bbcgoodfood.com/ moderation, the background all-barbecue flavour of liquorice works in the same way. Use raw liquorice root in sauces to pair with salmon, or unsweetened liquorice paste when curing salmon. +LIQUORICE SALMON STEPS TO SUCCESS KITCHEN HACK RACK OF RIBS Protect your  Remove the membrane  Pre-cook roasting tin If your ribs have any of the thin For fall-off-the-bone ribs, cook in silver-grey membrane left on the the oven first on a medium-low When roasting something coated in a sticky underside of the rack, remove it heat for two to three hours.  sauce or glaze, like teriyaki salmon or BBQ before cooking. Or, if you’re buying chicken wings, the glaze can weld itself to the from a butcher, they will be able  Barbecue on indirect heat roasting tin. To avoid this, simply line the tray to do this for you. It doesn’t break If finishing ribs on the barbecue, with a sheet of baking parchment, then roll down during cooking and stops ensure the coals aren’t too hot, as up and discard this after cooking. marinades and rubs from the ribs will just burn rather than penetrating the meat. caramelise. Make a space without coals, or just a few of them, and  Marinate for longer turn the ribs regularly. To maximise flavour, marinate ribs overnight so the flavourings can  Rest before serving really penetrate the meat. This Ribs need 10-15 minutes of resting also helps tenderise the ribs. time before serving. This enhances their flavour and texture, and also & ensures the sticky marinade doesn’t burn your guests’ mouths. Turn to page 24 for our succulent piri-piri pork ribs recipe. JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 127

NEXT LEVEL tchwwoleBohSliolwarilNlekuegeserOosr.idettIhW–ttutaeewtaihmnlWmiilhilspneefHmegiranirIntaitasThogkthueEefurcstepehoiuateyortcoekotruihvinwsreegphoniiv.tneen SOFT CENTRE Classic meringue is crisp and Pavlova brittle, while a pavlova should be soft and marshmallow-like recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph MOWIE KAY in the middle. We’ve added SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr EASY V cornflour to help achieve this distinctive texture. Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist MAX ROBINSON WHAT VANILLA SKY Transform clouds When it comes to make-ahead of sweetened crème puds that deliver the wow factor fraîche with a few drops for not much effort, a pavlova is of vanilla extract to your best bet. Some fall short for make it chantilly-style. being overly sweet – usually made with a classic meringue FREEZE FOR EASE of just sugar and egg whites – Older egg whites create but by applying a few tricks and more volume when reducing the overall sugar, you whisked than fresh ones. end up with a fruitier, lighter To break down fresh egg (but still indulgent) dessert. whites, freeze them, then defrost. Or, use frozen WHAT TO BUY egg whites you have left over from another recipe 4 egg whites that uses just the yolks. 1/2 lemon, juiced (you’ll need 1 tbsp juice; reserve the squeezed lemon half) 200g caster sugar 2 tsp cornflour For the fruit topping 400g strawberries, hulled and halved or quartered if large 1 tbsp icing sugar small squeeze of lemon juice 200g raspberries handful of redcurrants (optional) handful of small mint or basil leaves (or use a mixture) For the cream 300g full-fat crème fraîche 25g icing sugar ¼ tsp vanilla extract CFoidonOfforstiOaodhrmeeLcItooloNovrseecGenopdoOra)olntFgfoderFsaplesdriaeouvvnaeelalnytlhtf(iecknerimsaehcep,krisniinnwgggitt.uhcehe 128 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

PICK YOUR skills OWN FRUIT Summer berries are the HOW TO MAKE IT ideal topping for this pavlova, but depending 1 If you’re using fresh eggs and you have time, on the season or freeze the egg whites, then defrost completely availability, you could also (see tip, ‘freeze for ease’, left). Line a large baking use mango, pineapple, sheet with baking parchment and heat the oven stewed rhubarb or to 120C/100C fan/gas 1/2. Using a 20cm cake blackberries. tin or plate as a guide, draw a circle on the parchment, then flip it over. LESS SUGAR 2 Rub the reserved lemon half around the MORE TASTE inside of a large bowl. Tip in the egg whites We’ve made our and whisk using an electric whisk until small, meringue using a foamy bubbles form, about 1-2 mins. Continue modest amount of to whisk until the egg whites resemble shaving foam, then add the sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, until sugar so it’s the meringue is thick and glossy. Rub a dab not cloying. between your fingertips – if you can feel any grains of sugar, keep whisking for a few minutes iantmnotmReAdadanaccrtksShaeriefweeIriaaeMarotsttseehPuatdhatauLnettcdEhhierpreeiS,fuzilwsraYzrténvleryReaoa’vswitUuneuyrbgrrP.saueiflmprrjruuitpeihitclsyateots more. Add the cornflour and lemon juice, then whisk for another 30 seconds. SMOOTH TOUCH 3 Spoon the meringue mix into the middle of the You can just spoon the circle template, then use a palette knife to spread raw meringue mixture it out to fill the circle, creating a dip in the middle onto the parchment, (this will hold the topping later). Run the palette knife up the edges at regular intervals to create but we’ve given it a ridges, if you like. Bake for 1 hr, then turn off the neat finish using oven and leave the pavlova to cool completely a palette knife. with the door shut (if you can, leave it overnight). 4 For the topping, tip the strawberries into a bowl, dust with the icing sugar and squeeze over a little lemon juice. Mix together and leave to stand for 30 mins. Meanwhile, whisk the ingredients for the cream together until thick and pillowy. Gently stir the raspberries and redcurrants, if using, through the strawberries. Spoon the cream into the middle of the pavlova, then top with the fruit, drizzling over any juice. Scatter over the mint or basil before serving. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 401 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 14g • carbs 48g • sugars 46g • fibre 4g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g ehtfvUaerGeanlnprîEglcyiskThtobehefFiadnmblRaogriniuAlnedcbglÎseslCseeottHhucihnerreEnetshaewwmesesed,l,eccewtornshèmsemiecsershet.of HAaEsbRtsawoscBfsmoeatiAhltlraltaeLtlealdhNrspmdeinalOsoibvgnoThletookEesovfirtSnarbmrg.beaUialsngufsstoleiallotov.lwrdeo,ahuvoreles next month Blackberry pie Use up a glut of late-summer berries in this bake. Our August issue is on sale 28 July. JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 129

5 OF THE BEST Best Igneus Classico wood-fired Yorkshire-based wood-fired Pizza ovens pizza oven oven brand Igneus are behind this premium-quality product. Do you love a classic margherita or The big selling point of its like to experiment with toppings? Classico is the fact it can cook Whatever your preference, create two large pizzas at the same the perfect pizza with the right time – in fact, the oven cavity is oven – here are our top picks so large, it could comfortably fit an entire roast dinner. The quality of our cooked pizza was excellent, so we scored it an almost perfect nine out of 10. £875, Igneus Ooni Koda 16 Sage the Smart Oven Pizzaiolo Ooni is a leading brand in the pizza oven market, and for An indoor benchtop model, the Sage Pizzaiolo provides brick-oven performance at a fraction of the good reason. This gas-powered model is designed to cost. There are seven preset modes for all styles of create authentic-tasting pizzas in just 60 seconds. It has pizza (from ‘New York’ to ‘deep dish’ and even ‘frozen’), plus a manual mode. The ‘wood-fired’ mode seriously an innovative L-shaped flame that creates a waterfall impressed us: the result was a crisp, leopard-spotted effect, offering great flavour and heat retention and distribution. Our finished pizza was impressive, with crust and perfectly melted cheese. lovely charred bubbles around the crust, a crisp base £529, John Lewis & Partners and melted, oozy mozzarella. Best £499, Ooni indoor pizza Best gas oven pizza oven Most La Hacienda Firebox BBQ versatile This is an affordable buy for those with limited space. pizza oven It works by sitting on the grill of a barbecue – we used a barrel-shaped one, but it would also fit square or oblong Gozney Dome gas models (check the dimensions). The user-friendly During its first launch, this stylish giant sold out in temperature dial offers ‘warm’, ‘ideal’ and ‘hot’ settings. under eight hours, and we can understand why. We found cooking on the hot side of ‘ideal’ made the It’s a professional-grade pizza oven that’s been built on a smaller scale for using, storing and enjoying in best pizza. £95.99, Robert Dyas the garden. The dual-fuel design enables you to cook with either gas or wood for that authentic smoky Best flavour. Our cooked pizzas had a textbook mottled pizza oven crust and were done in just under two minutes. for BBQ £1,199, Gozney For the full list of expert reviews, 130 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022 go to bbcgoodfood.com/review or scan the QR code

skills Triple-cream cheeses Luxuriously buttery, these artisan products come recommended by the Academy of Cheese 1 Triple-cream cheeses originated cheeses are actually more like in 19th-century France, when 37-40% fat, since approximately rich, fatty foods were considered half of a soft cheese is water. to be symbols of wealth and To achieve the higher fat content, opulence.  Traditionally, triple- double cream is added to the milk cream cheese would have been before coagulation begins. Once made from raw cow’s milk, but the cheeses are set, they are left emerging cheesemakers are to develop a bloomy rind, which is experimenting with goat’s and formed by yeast and penicillium ewe’s milk varieties. Whatever the candidum mould blossoming on the source, the end result is always surface. This mould ripens the a buttery-rich, luxurious cheese. cheese from the outside in, which Culinary law states that a triple- takes place over a short period of cream cheese must contain a time, usually three to five weeks. minimum of 75% fat content in its & dry matter. This is not as bad as 2 it sounds, however; the finished Learn more about cheese at academyofcheese.org THREE TO TRY 1 MONTAGNOLO AFFINE Crafted in Bavaria, this mild, incredibly creamy cheese is velvety smooth. It combines the rich texture of brie with the bite of a blue, 3 and is a great gateway for anyone who shies away from blue varieties. It’s very soft, so it’s ideal for spreading, and pairs well with light red wines such as gamay. 2 SAINT ANDRÉ Made in the Coutances region of Normandy, this widely available cheese is buttery in taste and texture. While it sits well in a salad, it can also be enjoyed simply with fruit, particularly pears. Its full flavour can make white wines taste sour, so it’s best served with a light beer or dessert wine. 3 FINN Meaning ‘Great White One’ in Irish, this is a deliciously rich cheese with a soft ice cream texture from Neal’s Yard Creamery in Herefordshire. The creamy acidity of the younger cheese develops into deeper mushroom and walnut flavours as it ages. Serve with a sparkling wine to cut through the richness. Welcome to our new We’ve teamed up with fellow enthusiasts cheesegeek to bring you some of the finest cheeses from the UK and Europe. For more information and to order yourself a box of specially curated cheese, go to bbcgoodfoodcheeseclub.com JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 131

Spice thingsDRINKS CABINET up Mix up a chilli-spiked margarita with a recipe from Miriam Nice, plus learn about tequila’s smokier cousin, mezcal, and this summer’s best tipples, chosen by our drinks expert Georgina Kiely Spicy margarita 2 For the salt rim garnish, mix all the SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins ingredients together COOK 5 mins MORE EFFORT V and tip onto a shallow plate. Brush the rims of 150ml tequila four tumblers with a little 75ml triple sec water, then dip the rims in 25ml chilli syrup (see below) the chilli-salt mixture. Set aside 25ml mango juice while you make the margarita. 25ml lime juice 3 Tip all the cocktail ingredients handful of ice into a large cocktail shaker or For the chilli syrup blender and shake vigorously 1 red chilli, sliced until the outside of the shaker 50g golden caster sugar feels cold, or pulse two or three For the salt rim times to combine. You want to small handful of coriander, leaves chill, aerate and dilute the drink, but not completely picked and finely chopped crush the ice. 1/2 lime, zested 4 Fill a large jug and the 2 tsp sea salt flakes prepared tumblers with 2 tsp golden caster sugar ice cubes, then strain the 1/2 tsp chipotle chilli flakes cocktail into the jug and stir well before pouring 1 First, make the chilli syrup. into the tumblers. Put the sliced chilli and sugar in a saucepan with 50ml water. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free Bring to a simmer over a low- PER SERVING 160 kcals • fat none • medium heat, stirring until the saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 8g sugar has dissolved. Turn off the • fibre none • protein 0.1g • salt 0.6g heat and leave to cool completely. 132 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

skills ALL ABOUT MEZCAL WHAT IS MEZCAL? This earthy spirit not all mezcals are tequilas, as tequila is made from agave (usually agave has geographical restrictions and can espadín), which is also used in tequila only be made from blue agave. They’re production. The core, or piña, is roasted usually made in different areas of in stone pits, then crushed to release the Mexico, and tequila involves steaming juice. This is then fermented, distilled rather than roasting the agave. and sometimes aged. It’s made in small batches almost exclusively in Mexico, HOW DO YOU SERVE MEZCAL? usually in Oaxaca. There are many types Drink it neat, on the rocks or in cocktails. available, depending on the agave used, Most mezcals have a smoky flavour, but flavours added during fermentation they can also have fruity, floral or spicy and any ageing that takes place. notes, which work well in tequila-based cocktails, such as a paloma or margarita, WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN or in drinks like negronis and old TEQUILA AND MEZCAL? Mezcal is any fashioneds. For more inspiration agave-based spirit, so all tequilas are on using mezcal, check out our mezcals, in the same way that single collection of mezcal cocktail recipes malts and bourbons are whiskies. But, at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/mezcal. Raise a glass Refreshing drinks to enjoy this summer BEER  CIDER LEMONDAYZ IPA GALIPETTE ROSÉ This zesty IPA is a good Delicately sweet with choice for parties. Inspired a strong apple flavour, by the pop factory roots of this is less acidic than the brewery, the 5.5% ABV typical cider, making beer is juicy and citrussy. it refreshing and easy from £3 per 330ml can, to drink. £2 per 330ml Waitrose & Partners and bottle, Waitrose magicrockbrewing.com & Partners GIN MEZCAL SLINGSBY MADRE MEZCAL GOOSEBERRY GIN Handmade in Oaxaca Sharp yet sweet, this is using agave plants distilled in Harrogate with cooked over hot local botanicals. It has stones, this smoky, a distinctive citrus tang aromatic mezcal that gives way to fresh, makes an unbeatable fruity flavours. £30 (70cl), margarita. £60.99 (70cl), spiritofharrogate.co.uk masterofmalt.com  BEER KOMBUCHA KVEIK REMEDY ORGANIC KOMBUCHA WILD BERRY Peach and mango flavours burst from this sweet beer Bursting with sun-ripened made with a Norwegian berries, this sweet, fruity heritage yeast strain. It kombucha captures the comes with sustainable essence of summer while wood film can labels, too. being low-calorie and £3.50 per 440ml can, sugar-free. £5 for four Ocado 330ml cans, Tesco JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 133

skills BUTCHER’S BLOCK Test kitchen secrets New cuts to try on the BBQ Our cookery assistant Helena Busiakiewicz shares what she’s learned about paprika When the sun’s out, the grills come out, and Jessica Wragg WHAT IS IT MADE FROM? goes shopping for less obvious Paprika is simply finely ground dried peppers. The type of pepper and cuts of meat to barbecue how it’s processed defines the spice, whether hot, smoky or sweet. LAMB BREAST Economical, and what’s more, PIMENTÓN OR SMOKED unbelievably tasty, lamb breast is a cut that’s rarely Spanish for paprika, pimentón is available in specialist shops. Often, the sold and will instead often find itself in a butcher’s peppers have been smoked over oak fires, so use it when you need to sausage machine. Buy three or four of these and emulate the taste of wood-fired cooking. It can be hot or sweet. ask your butcher to cut the ribs into singlets for you. When you get home, boil the ribs in water for an hour SWEET or so to tenderise before covering in your chosen In the supermarket, a jar labelled marinade and finishing on the barbecue. simply ‘paprika’ is most likely sweet paprika. This adds colour and a PORK COLLAR Another cut that rarely makes it past warm hum of fruitiness to a dish. the shop counter is pork collar, or pork rib-eye to some. This isn’t the leanest or healthiest cut of meat, but for HUNGARIAN a special occasion, does that matter? If you want to A less-common variety in the impress your guests, have your butcher cut the steaks UK, but well-worth seeking thinly and marinate for at least 12 hours. On the grill, out. Hungary actually has cook them over a medium heat and be sure to eight different grades of weigh them down so they crisp up nicely. paprika. For an authentic goulash, seek out PICANHA Some will swear by the rib-eye cap or the ‘különleges’, the highest ‘denver’ for a barbecue, but if you can find a butcher quality in the scale. who will sell you the picanha (or rump cap) as a whole, you must stay with them for life. A triangular cut that can & For this issue, range from anywhere between 600g-1.3kg, the picanha Helena has tested should be cooked whole. Sear it first over the hottest paprika in this month’s part of your grill before moving it to an indirect heat cover recipe, piri-piri to cook until medium-rare (see our guide to barbecuing pork ribs (p24), as well at bbcgoodfood.com/how-light-bbq). Let it rest, then as summer veg tostadas slice it whole – your guests will be impressed by (p38) and smoky new this special centrepiece. potatoes (p90). & WE ARE Jessica Wragg is a London- Each month, we introduce you to based butcher. Her book, the experts who create content for Girl on the Block (£20, your favourite food brand DeyStrBks), is out now. jessicawragg.co.uk BENJAMINA EBUEHI @jessicawragg After getting to the quarter-finals on the seventh series of The Great British Bake Off, Benjamina has gone on to become a cookbook author, recipe developer and food stylist. She blogs at carrotandcrumb.com, recently published A Good Day to Bake: Simple Baking Recipes for Every Mood (£22, Quadrille) and contributes recipes to Good Food. She’s also created a series of fun video tutorials on making brownie toppings, loaded fries and cupcake toppers – you can watch these at bbcgoodfood.com/videos. 134 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

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Managing director, Group Commercial Group advertising and Customer food editor-in-chief director partnerships director engagement director Christine Hayes Alex White Simon Carrington Jason Elson Julia Rich CONTACT US [email protected] CONTENT Group digital editor Lily Barclay ADVERTISING Get the best Editor, bbcgoodfood.com from our recipes Group magazines editor Natalie Hardwick Head of clients and strategy Keith Kendrick Associate editor, Catherine Crosby and Liz Reid We test them thoroughly Group managing editor bbcgoodfood.com Amanda Nicolas Senior account manager Rachel Dalton to ensure they work for you Lulu Grimes Editor, olivemagazine.com Account manager Margaret McGonnel Deputy magazines editor Alex Crossley Senior brand executive Cressida Ward  Read the recipe before starting. Basic Janine Ratcliffe Health editor Tracey Raye Group head of trading Ashley Snell storecupboard ingredients, like salt, aren’t Food director Cassie Best Digital content producer, health Head of digital James Walmsley included in the ingredients list. Senior food editor Isabella Bradford Business development manager, inserts  Use standard measuring spoons for accuracy, Anna Glover Digital food editor Georgina Kiely Steve Cobb especially for things like spices, yeast and salt. Skills & shows editor Reviews & ecommerce editor Classified sales executive  Where possible, we use humanely reared and Barney Desmazery Lucy Roxburgh Alex McCarthy produced British meats, poultry and eggs, and Food copy editor Premium content manager Regional business development manager sustainably sourced seafood. Samuel Goldsmith Katie Meston Nicola Rearden  To help avoid waste, we suggest how to use Deputy food editor Adam Bush Audience development manager any leftovers you may have from our recipes. Cookery assistant Helena Kim Onasile For all advertising enquiries, please email:  Eggs carrying the British Lion mark guarantee Busiakiewicz Audience development [email protected] that all hens are vaccinated against salmonella. Junior food & reviews writer executive Alice Johnston  We try to avoid using plastic. You’ll find Maga Flores-Trevino Digital assistants Emily Lambe, MARKETING & instructions to wrap or cover, but we won’t specify Senior administration assistant Helen Salter SUBSCRIPTIONS what to use unless it’s vital to the recipe. Rachel Gunter Publishing manager Helping you to eat well SUBS DESIGN Tom Townsend-Smith Our BANT-registered nutritionist analyses our Digital marketing manager recipes on a per-serving basis, not including Group content & production Group creative director Ben Curtis Amy Donovan optional serving suggestions. You can compare manager Stella Papamichael Art directors Rachel Bayly, Digital marketing executive these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the Deputy content & production Gillian McNeill Lara-Jane Johnston official recommended amount an adult should manager Fiona Forman Design hub manager Customer engagement executive consume daily. Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Chief sub & production editor Gabby Harrington Tami Aktar Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar Dominic Martin Senior multimedia designer Social media lead Sonia Rowe 90g, Salt 6g (please note RIs for total fat, saturates, Senior sub-editors Cloe-Rose Mann Senior PR manager sugar and salt are the maximum daily amounts). Marianne Voyle, Sarah Nittinger Multimedia designer Natasha Lee 020 7150 5472 Healthy recipes are checked to ensure they have Sub-editors Freddie Stewart Reader offer manager Liza Evans a low amount of saturated fat, sugar and salt per Hannah Guinness, Katie Hopkins Junior multimedia designer Subscriptions director Helen Ward 100g, equivalent to green on a traffic-light label. Emma Winchester Direct marketing manager On a per serving basis, Good Food require the COMMERCIAL Video producer Hetty Ashiagbor Sally Longstaff saturated fat to be 5g or less, salt 1.5g or less Videographer Joe Pomeroy Direct marketing executive Amy Corbett and sugar, 15g or less per serving. Digital publisher Anna Priest Head of newstrade marketing Low-fat recipes in Good Food are low per 100g, Head of partnerships Marc Humby INTERNATIONAL Martin Hoskins or 12g or less per serving. Project oordinator Jenny Goff Newstrade marketing manager Low-calorie recipes have 500 calories or less Director of international Alex Drummond per main course, or 150 calories or less for a CONTRIBUTING licensing & syndication dessert. We also include the number of portions EDITORS Tim Hudson PRODUCTION of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and highlight Syndication manager recipes that supply a third of the daily requirements Joanna Blythman Richard Bentley Production, sustainability & ethical director of calcium, iron, folate and vitamin C, and a good Marverine Cole International partners manager Koli Pickersgill source of fibre and omega-3. David Crawford (TV) Molly Hope-Seton Production manager Lee Spencer Balanced recipes contribute to your five-a-day, Emma Freud Senior repro technician Darren McCubbin include starchy carbohydrate, a lean source of Henry Jeffreys AD SERVICES Repro technician Jonathan Shaw protein and dairy, or plant-based alternatives. These Tom Kerridge recipes also use unsaturated oils in small amounts, Victoria Moore Ad services director DIVERSITY & and all components of the main meal are included Tony Naylor Sharon Thompson INCLUSION in the analysis – only seasonings are excluded as Melissa Thompson Display ad services manager ‘to serve’. Saturated fats, sugar and salt are Kerry Torrens (nutrition) John Szilady Diversity & inclusion manager medium per 100g, or amber on a traffic-light label. Ad services manager Ridhi Radia LIVE EVENTS Eleanor Parkman-Eason How we label our recipes Senior ad services co-ordinator, Vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly Portfolio director, food & festivals display Sarah Barker labelled, but be sure to check pack ingredients. Sophie Walker Ad services co-ordinator Freezing (❄) Can be frozen for up to three months Head of commercial Hugo Wheatley unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and Rachael Clarke Ad services co-ordinator, inserts heat until piping hot. [email protected] Agata Wszeborowska  Recipes for advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested by us. Executive chairman Tom Bureau CEO Sean Cornwell  Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, COO & CFO Dan Constanda but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more info, visit coeliac.org.uk. BBC STUDIOS, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL BBC GOOD FOOD BOOKS  We are unable to answer individual medical UK PUBLISHING REVIEW BOARD or nutritional queries. Editorial director Chair, Editorial Review Boards Commissioning editor, factual Lizzy Gray Nicholas Brett Patrick McMahon Editor Managing director of consumer Head of audio & music Joanna Stenlake products & licensing Stephen Davies production, Bristol jstenlake@penguin Director, magazines and consumer Clare McGinn randomhouse.co.uk products Mandy Thwaites Glynn Pegler Compliance manager Sue Price Cameron McEwan This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Limited under licence from BBC Studios © Immediate Media Company Limited, 2020. Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT 144 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

reader Buddleja SAVE offer ‘Butterfly Candy’ £12 Just £12 each, or buy all three for just £24 plus p&p* on the collection Enjoy a splash of colour in your garden with this As a special offer for BBC Good Food readers, beautiful, new, award-winning series of Buddleja. add a 50g sachet of this unique plant feed for just £1 with every order Bred to be shorter and more compact than the traditional varieties, they are a dream for smaller gardens Try this brand-new, unique blend of general- and perfect for planting in containers on a patio if you purpose plant food for even more flowers have limited space, as well as in borders. throughout the season. Usually £5, BBC Good Food readers can order at the introductory price of £1. A 50g sachet will The dense, conical spikes of sweetly fragrant blooms make 100 litres of feed. Limited to one per household. appear above pretty, neat, blue-green foliage from late- summer to autumn, and will be adored by bees, butterflies and other pollinators. Their mature height and spread is 80cm, and they are a fully hardy perennial, flourishing outside all year round with no winter protection required. Supplied as 9cm pots for delivery in July. TO ORDER CALL 01386 426 245 quoting ROGF or VISIT hayloft.co.uk/ROGF or COMPLETE THE FORM BELOW and send to GOOD FOOD READER OFFER, PO BOX 2020, PERSHORE, WR10 9BP. Please add £5.95 postage to your order. Title Initial Surname code: ROGF QTY TOTAL Address CODE DESCRIPTION PRICE £12 ROGF-25BU1 Buddleja Butterfly Candy Little Purple x 1 £12 £12 ROGF-25BP1 Buddleja Butterfly Candy Little Ruby x 1 £24 Postcode ROGF-25BW1 Buddleja Butterfly Candy Little White x 1 Tel Email ROGF-25BC3 Buddleja Butterfly Candy Collection x 3 (1 of each) £36 Save £12 I enclose a cheque (no cash, please) for £ made payable to Hayloft Maestro issue no with my name and address on the back Card security code ROGF-25PF1 Plant feed 50g sachet £1 1 £5.95 Or charge my Visa Mastercard Maestro P&P GRAND TOTAL £5.95 Card number Start date / Expiry date / ✃ Signature Date Terms and conditions *£5.95 p&p per order. Prices are correct at time of printing. Offer closes 31 July 2022. Please note your contract for supply of goods is with Hayloft, Manor Farm, Pensham, Worcs WR103HB. Full T&Cs available on request. All items are subject to availability. All orders will receive an order acknowledgement. Occasionally the advertised delivery date may change, however, this will be clearly stated on your order confirmation. Offer available to UK addresses only. Reader offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotions or discounts. JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 145

last bite Sweet endings Good Food reader Rosie Jones shares her recipe for a luxurious no-bake dark chocolate dessert photograph TOM REGESTER Il cioccolato del diavolo (the devil’s chocolate) From a young age, my preference has been for the snap of a good dark chocolate. I’m always set on finding new ways of making it the star of a meal, whether that’s in my devilled lamb or an indulgent dessert like this one, which requires patience but is worth the extra effort. It was born on a lazy day in rainy Dorset when the dulcet tones of Italian crooners were wafting through the air, making me long for a visit to Italy. SERVES 8-10 PREP 1 hr plus at least 4 hrs chilling NO COOK MORE EFFORT V Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist AMY STEPHENSON | Stylist AGATHÉ GITS 25 amaretti biscuits into the cream. Crush 5 amaretti biscuits that won’t fit into the tin, you can pour 75-100ml amaretto liqueur (to taste), this into small dessert glasses and chill and fold these into the mixture along alongside the tin until set. plus 2 tbsp 7 Tip the remaining double cream, the 300g dark chocolate, broken into pieces with 75ml amaretto liqueur. Set aside. rest of the mascarpone and the icing 5g unsalted butter 4 In a separate large bowl, whisk the egg sugar into a bowl and whisk to soft 500ml double cream yolks and caster sugar together using peaks. Spoon this into a small serving 100g mascarpone, whipped to loosen bowl and dust with cocoa or espresso 4 egg yolks, plus 1 egg white (freeze the an electric whisk until light, fluffy and powder. Invert the set dessert onto a serving plate or board, lift off the tin and remaining whites for another recipe) tripled in volume – the mixture should remove the parchment. Dust with cocoa 110g golden caster sugar or espresso powder. Crush the rest of 100g ground almonds form a slowly disappearing trail when the amaretti biscuits, scatter these 10g icing sugar over the top and decorate with the cocoa or espresso powder, to serve you lift the beaters. Gently fold the chocolate-dipped biscuits. Slice with a warmed knife and serve with 1 Line a 900g loaf tin with two criss- almonds into the egg yolk mixture, then spoons of the mascarpone cream. crossed strips of baking parchment. Crush 8 amaretti biscuits and scatter fold in the amaretto cream to combine. PER SERVING (10) 701 kcals • fat 53g • saturates 28g • these over the base of the tin. Sprinkle 5 Add the cooled melted chocolate and carbs 38g • sugars 34g • fibre 3g • protein 9g • salt 0.1g over 2 tbsp amaretto liqueur. Set aside. mix gently to combine. Whip the egg 2 Tip the chocolate into a heatproof bowl along with the butter. Set the bowl white to stiff peaks using an electric over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the base of the bowl doesn’t touch the whisk, then fold this in, too, being water. Stir for 5 mins until melted. Or, melt in the microwave in 20-second careful not to knock out the air. Taste bursts. Dip 8 amaretti biscuits in the chocolate, then arrange on a sheet and fold in the remaining 25ml of baking parchment. Set both the biscuits and chocolate aside to cool. amaretto liqueur, if you like. 3 Whip 400ml double cream to soft 6 Pour the mixture into the prepared tin peaks using an electric whisk, being and chill for at least 4 hrs or overnight careful not to over-whip. Use a large metal spoon to fold 80g mascarpone until set. If you have any extra mixture 146 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

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