WFCF-VOL1-FINAL-flip

where VOL. 1, ISSUE 1FOODcomes fromSuConunstrhyineThe Amazing Story of CountryNatural BeefPlus: Meet the People Behind Your Food LEARN HOW A REGIONAL GROCER IS CHANGING THE GAME Mushrooms, Almonds, and ... Falcons?





welcomeDear FoodEnthusiast Hello and welcome to to work with some of the most humble, the very first edition of dedicated and fascinating people in some the Where Food Comes of the most breathtaking and pristine From (WFCF) magazine! landscapes of this beautiful country. We We are so happy that hope that as you read you will laugh, you are taking the ponder and maybe even cry a little as time to learn more you learn more about people with such a about the farmers and strong commitment to family values, to the ranchers who produce environment and to the noble pursuit of the wonderful food we producing wholesome and nutritious food eat each day. Since for the nourishment of others. founding WFCF more than twenty years ago, Every meal has a story. Discover it! it has been one of our long-standing dreams From our family to yours, to be able to better tell the stories of the Leann and John Saunders incredibly diverse group Co-Founders, Where Food Comes From of people and companies that we get to work with on a daily basis. Often, we find that many people who are not involved in production agriculture can have misconceptions about where and how food is grown. That unfortunately sometimes leads to mistrust on the part of consumers about the values and motivations of the people producing their food. Our passion at WFCF is to help bridge that gap and give both food producers and food consumers a level of trust that both rewards farmers for producing a value-added product yet gives consumers the confidence that the food they are eating has been verified by an independent third party. As you will see in the following pages, we are truly blessed to have the opportunity2 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017



contents back to the land 6 FOOD IN PHOTOGRAPHY The land and lambs of Idaho’s Ball Brothers Sheep Company. appetizers 8 FOOD IN THE NEWS Interesting, edible tidbits from the food industry. 10 HEALTHY LANDS, HEALTHY PEOPLE The special sustainability of mushrooms. why verify 12 EMPLOYEE PROFILE Matt Jones of Validus keeps an eye on the process. 14 PRODUCER PROFILE Ken McCarty, of McCarty Family Farms, keeps pushing the envelope. 16 RETAILER PROFILE Heinen’s Grocery Stores brings special service to their customers. features 18 GOING DEEP All about almonds. 20 THE HATFIELDS, ACE THE BODYBUILDER AND SHINRAI The inside story of Country Natural Beef’s revolutionary model. 28 something to chew on How falcons are protecting vineyards. On the Cover: Country Natural Beef producer Roger Ediger of the Box T Ranch, Mount Vernon, Ore.4 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017



back to the land | FOOD IN PHOTOGRAPHY6 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017

Beauty and the Sheep PHOTOS COURTESY OF WHERE FOOD COMES FROM Outside of Hamer, Idaho, the Ball Brothers Sheep Company runs more than 7,000 ewes. Robert Ball’s grandfather began feeding lambs in the early 1940s. Today, the operation is part of Shepherd’s Pride Lamb from Mountain States.SUMMER 2017 Where Food Comes From 7

appetizers | FOOD IN THE NEWSA MAJOR AWARD IT’S NOT PEANUTS AND CRACKER JACKSIMI Global—a division of Where Food Comes From—recently received the Beef Quality Assurance’s The Seattle Mariners Major League2017 Marketer of the Year Award. The BQA program Baseball team—playing at Safecois designed to help beef producers raise cattle under Field—has added a new menuoptimum management and environmental conditions item: Schistocerca Americana.thereby allowing consumers to take pride and trust in What’s that? Grasshoppers. Friedwhat they purchase–and have confidence in the entire grasshoppers in chile-lime saltbeef industry. Where Food Comes From has become seasoning, in fact, and for $4 youthe U.S. leader in third-party verification, certification can enjoy the crack of the bat andand value-added solutions for beef producers with the crunch of a hopper, too.programs in every sector of the livestock industry,working to establish equivalencies between the BQAstandard and other existing or emerging programs.15% Isn’t That Special? The Specialty Food Association’s (SFA) annual State of the Industry report, issued in April, claimed total SALES JUMPED 15% BETWEEN 2014 AND 2016. The report examines the vibrant $127 billion-dollar industry in detail. Growth is driven by product innovations and wider availability of specialty foods through mass-market outlets. Sales through foodservice increased 13.7% to $27.7 billion as U.S. consumers make specialty food a regular part of their away-from- home meal purchases. “Consumer preferences for specialty food products are growing at double digits, outpacing mainstream food staples,” said Phil Kafarakis, President of the Specialty Food Association. “The products our members create appeal to consumers looking for authentic tastes and foods with fewer and cleaner ingredients.”Four Great Ways toTeach Kids Where Food Comes From1. Plant a Seed and 2. Visit a Farm or Ranch 3. Map the Food Path 4. Go Fish!Grow Something Producers love to share Locate the origin of food on Pretty easy to see how aWhether you live in an their story. Find a pick-your- an online map and figure out meal gets from the pond toapartment or on a ranch, own farm online or meet how far it traveled to your the plate by wettin’ a line.show kids how it works! someone at farmers market plate. and ask for a tour!8 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017

Seeds on ICEHalfway between Norway and the North Pole, deep inside a mountain, is a fail-safe seedstorage facility called the The Svalbard Global Seed Vault. Built to stand the test of time—andthe challenge of natural or man-made disasters—the seed vault represents the world’s largestcollection of crop diversity. Ranging from unique varieties of major African and Asian foodstaples such as maize, rice, wheat, cowpea, and sorghum to European and South Americanvarieties of eggplant, lettuce, barley, and potato.4.5 Million 864,309 -18 VARIETY CAPACITY SAMPLES CURRENTLY IN THE DEGREE C TEMPERATURE VAULT REQUIRED KEEP ON TRUCKIN’ The Daily Meal recently listed the best food trucks in the nation, and the popular New Jersey rolling restaurant, The Oink and Moo, took top honors. Serving BBQ since 2012—and growing to three trucks and expanding from Hoboken and Asbury Park to Philadelphia—also has a brick-and- mortar location in Florham Park. 15% Sales for the food truck segment are growing about 15 percent annually, according to Technomic, a research firm specializing in the food-service industry.“Agriculture is our wisest pursuit, because it will in the endcontribute most to real wealth, good morals, and happiness.” -THOMAS JEFFERSON RECORD GLUTTONY Joey Chestnut set the world record at Nathan’s Famous 4th of July Hot Dog Eating Contest by THAT’S:scarfing 70 hot dogs with buns in 10 minutes. 1195,6P0O0UCNADLSORIES 35 FEET IN LENGTH SUMMER 2017 Where Food Comes From 9

appetizers | HEALTHY LANDS, HEALTHY PEOPLEOne Fabulous FungiWe don’t have Mushroom totell you everything about toadstools. PRODUCING REQUIRES 1.8 GALLONS OF WATER 1 POUND REQUIRES 1.0 KWH OF ELECTRICITY OF MUSHROOMS GENERATES ONLY .7 LBS OF CO2 EQUIVALENTSTHE MUSHROOM IS A VERY Some of the oldest livingNUTRITIOUS FOOD. mushrooms colonies are fairy rings growing aroundDiffering species can be a good source the famous Stonehengeof vitamin B along with essential ruins in England. The rings are so large thatminerals such as copper and potassium. they can be seen fromWhile fat, carbohydrates and salt content airplanes!is very low. In fact, a single Portabellamushroom can contain more potassiumthan a banana.  “All mushrooms Mushroom (and fungi) are edible, recycle plants after they die and transform them but some only once into rich soil. If not for in a lifetime.” mushrooms, the Earth would be buried in several feet of debris.10 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017

The world’s largest known organism is a mushroom—the Honey Mushroom (Armillaria ostoyae). This massive organism covers 2,384 acres (nearly four square miles) of soil in Oregon’s Blue Mountains. The fungus is estimated to be 2,400 years old but could be as ancient as 8,650 years. Above ground the honey mushrooms are short-lived but the underlying mycelium (branch like vegetation) lives on.Mushrooms are a fungus, and unlike plants,mushrooms do not require sunlight tomake energy for themselves.  ONE ACRE OF LAND CAN PRODUCE ONE MILLION POUNDS OF MUSHROOMS IN SUPERMARIO BROTHERS, 1-UP MUSHROOMS GIVEPLAYERS EXTRA LIFE. SUMMER 2017 Where Food Comes From 11

why verify? | EMPLOYEE PROFILEEMPLOYEE PROFILEMATT JONESVICE PRESIDENT OFVALIDUS OPERATIONSDes Moines, IowaFIRST OF ALL, GIVE ME A PICTURE WHAT ARE SOME TRADE SECRETS WHAT ARE THE JOYS OF YOUROF WHAT VALIDUS DOES. YOU’VE LEARNED? JOB? We perform audit services for food We try to stay away from “yes” or “no” I think it comes down to—for me—producers, processors and retailers questions. If you give the producer the going out onto a farm, meeting theto ensure socially responsible food opportunity to give a one-word answer, people, auditing that site and comingproduction. Every day we’re making that’s as far as they’re going to take it back in a year and seeing the changessure standards are being met. We’re and you don’t learn anything about their that have been made. That’s tipping thea connection between the consumer/ operation. That’s a key to training new hat to the audit process and to the levelretailer and the farm. We’re that level auditors, asking open answer questions. of commitment that the farm has made.of believability and we take that very Folks work hard on these farms andseriously. DESCRIBE THE PRODUCERS YOU they want to show you what they’ve WORK WITH. done to meet that standard.CAN YOU GIVE ME A PICTURE OFTHE SCOPE OF THE COMPANY? In today’s world, there are two groups HOW DO YOU FEEL WHEN YOU of producers we work with. The first is SEE THE VALIDUS STAMP IN THE There are 50 auditors throughout a larger farm with more structure that SUPERMARKET?the U.S., and seven staffers. There are can hire field staff for internal audits.probably between 1,000 or 1,500 farms The second is the independent producer There’s been a lot of hard workwe audit, nationwide. We do quite a few who is doing it all: planting crops, taking behind the Validus stamp—both onaudits in Canada as well. care of livestock, and documenting when our side and the producer’s side. It’s they have a chance. When you look at recognition—positive recognition—butSO, AS AN AUDITOR, WHAT DO YOU it from a third-party standpoint, the we’re behind-the-scenes. So when I see audit works for everybody--large, small, the logo, it’s great because there was aLOOK FOR ON FARM? conventional, organic--it really doesn’t whole lot of hard work—blood, sweat matter the type of farm you have. What and tears—to get to that point. FolksThere’s always the basics: feed, water, matters is proper care of the animal and should be proud to have that on the end proper training of employees. product.ventilated air and a dry place for the SUMMER 2017animals to lay down. The majority of theanimal welfare observations encompassthose things. When I present to folks,I try not to boil everything down toonarrowly, but the biggest question weneed to answer is: Are we taking careof the animal? What are the practicesthat we do on the farm and are youdocumenting what you’re doing?12 Where Food Comes From



why verify? | PRODUCER PROFILEPRODUCER PROFILEMCCARTYFAMILYFARMSMcCarty Family Farms’ dairies in northwest Kansas received dying.” That’s not an arrogantgenesis was in 1914 in eastern the same pay price for milk, but feed statement. Growth doesn’t necessarilyPennsylvania. By the time they left prices were 2-3 times cheaper. Plus, come in size, it can be efficiencies,in 1999, the dairy had grown to he saw opportunity for growth and productivities, employee development,220 cows. Today, in four different wanted to be in more ag-friendly or animal welfare. There are a ton ofdivisions in northwestern Kansas communities. things that are in that equation. Theand southern Nebraska, the point of it is—and he would probablydairy is milking 8,200 cows. Ken IT SEEMS GROWTH HAS BEEN ONE say—don’t be lazy. Get moving.McCarty, one of four brothers who OF THE THEMES OF MCCARTYrepresent the fourth generation FAMILY FARMS FOR THE PAST 20 YOUR GROWTH CAUGHT THEof milking McCartys, took time to YEARS. ATTENTION OF THE COMMUNITIESdiscuss the family’s history, unique IN KANSAS, TOO, DIDN’T IT?opportunities that led to the When we relocated to Kansas, thetremendous growth and how they first day we milked 300 cows. That was Just after I graduated from college inview their role in the world. the most cows we’d ever milked in our 2005, we were approached by a local entire lives. We grew the dairy to about economic development foundationWHAT PLAYED INTO THE DECISION 800 cows and for a variety of reasons— representing Bird City and they primarily economic—we knew we inquired if we would be interested inTO MOVE FROM PENNSLYVANIA TO needed to add more cows. We pushed building a dairy in their town. They the herd size to 1,300 cows and were still were tasked with reviving their townKANSAS IN 1999? struggling financially. So we pushed the through economic development. Our herd to between 1,500 and 1600 cows. reply was that we’d love to buildOur great grandfather Taylor McCarty another dairy, but we have no money. I’M SURE ALL THOSE MOVES FELT They essentially loaned us the seedstarted the farm in 1914 in Sugar LIKE INCREDIBLE RISKS. money to build that dairy and our bank was willing to view that basically asRun, Pennsylvania. My grandfather It’s a credit to my parents and equity. That allowed us to grow our my two oldest brothers for keeping farm to two locations and pushed oursubsequently took that over from him. us in the game. My dad always total herd size to roughly 3,500 cows. says, “If you’re not growing, you’reMy mother and father, Tom and Judy, SUMMER 2017took over from him—all in the samebarn. My great-grandfather was aninnovative individual for his time andmy grandfather was, too. So part ofit is genetic—or the environment wewere raised in—but my dad realizedthat where we were at in northeastPennsylvania—while beautiful anda great place to grow up—­ wasn’t anideal location for animal agriculture.There was urban encroachment. Thelogistics of harvesting feed for a largescale farm back there created somemassive inefficiencies. At the time,14 Where Food Comes From

THEN DANNON CALLED. TELL US When a lot ofABOUT WHAT HAS COME FROM your focus is spentTHAT PARTNERSHIP. on simply surviving until tomorrow, In 2010, we were contacted by it prevents youmembers of the Dannon US Milk team. from focusing onEventually, we entered what is a very things that are trulyinnovative and unique arrangement impactful. Thisthat is essentially a cost-plus, direct- model frees us fromsupply model. We were immediately that and helps usaligned with their vision. In order narrow and clarifyto accommodate their milk needs at our focus on thethat time, we doubled our herd size things that we value,by expanding our existing locations that we believeand taking over an abandoned dairy Dannon values,in Scott City. That next March, we and we hope theconstructed an evaporative condensing consumer values.milk processing plant which receives allthe raw milk from our farms, separates LET’S DIG INTO WHAT SOME OF We built a business we believe in in thisit, condenses it and is subsequentlyshipped to Dannon’s Dallas/Fort THOSE THINGS ARE. TELL ME ABOUT area, and we’re not leaving. In order forWorth manufacturing plant. YOUR ANIMAL WELFARE INITIATIVES. us to be able to pass on something toAND HOW MUCH MILK IS THAT? Today we milk approximately You’re not a dairyman with out dairy our children, there’s get to be something8,200 cows at four facilities producing cows. That simple concept is the guiding here to pass on. On top of the simple fact720,000 pounds of raw milk a day. Ourprocessing capacity is about 675,000 principle. I may sign a check, but that that conserving water is the right thingpounds of milk a day. We’re actuallyoutpacing our own plant. cow pays the bill. Ultimately, we need to do, we take that responsibility veryBESIDES THE PRICING STRUCTURE, to bow to her. In terms of on-farm seriously. The cornerstone of that is ourWHAT MAKES THE DANNONARRANGEMENT UNIQUE? practices, the guidelines we follow are condensing plant. In that, we’re able to One of the biggest advantages we the Validus Animal Welfare guidelines. reclaim anywhere from 50,000 to 65,000have in this model is we have a directline of access to know what our end Those are transformed into extensive gallons of fresh water a day. That allowsconsumers want from our product.Between McCarty Family Farms and training programs internally and outside. us to build a processing plant and runDannon, we collaborate on a varietyof different projects such as achieving We compliment that by reviews from it at a high level, hire more people,Validus animal welfare certifications,projects regarding our environmental outside third parties to learn how we can increase the cow herd and we use lesssustainability, community sustainability,and employee engagement. The pricing improve our facilities and practices. All water out of our well today than westructure almost becomes secondary tothe mission of progress. The pricing does those things are evaluated continuously. did prior to building that plant. It alsoaid us in that with regard to the fact thattoday we’re not dependent on market We have camera systems on all of our reduces the volume of trucks required toprices, and as such, we can take a longerterm viewpoint on investments and a farms and the third party reviewers can move our product to the Dannon plantlonger term viewpoint on sustainability,and animal welfare initiatives. access that 24-hours a day at random to by 75%. On top of that, we’re trying to make sure that all protocols are being do things like soil-moisture probes on followed. our farm ground, using crops that are more water efficient, and investing in YOU ALSO TALKED ABOUT alternative cow cooling technologies ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY. to be as efficient as possible in terms of WATER USAGE IS A HUGE ISSUE water use. FOR DAIRIES. HOW IS MCCARTY FAMILY FARMS DEALING WITH WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT YOUR THOSE CHALLENGES? JOB? Being located in northwestern Kansas, We are always asking ourselves, What water is a critical issue for the long term can we do to make my business and my survivability of this area as a whole. product and my employees’ lives and For anyone who is paying attention to my communities better? Those are the sustainability issues, the decline of the things that wake us up in the morning Ogallala aquifer is pretty dang serious. and get us up and moving. SUMMER 2017 Where Food Comes From 15

why verify? | RETAILER PROFILERETAILER PROFILEHEINEN’SGROCERYSTOREHeinen’s Grocery Store,established in 1929 on theeast side of Cleveland, Ohio,has grown to 23 stores in Ohioand Illinois. Brothers Tomand Jeff Heinen rely on theiremployees to carry their corevalues of customer service andprogressive product knowledgeto their customers. Tom shareshis company’s history andphilosophies as well as wherehe sees the consumer demandsheaded.DESCRIBE THE STORE’S IN AN AGE OF CONSOLIDATION, HOW DO YOU DO THAT? HOW HAS A FAMILY-OWNED/RUN First, you create a culture whereBEGINNING. BUSINESS BEEN ABLE TO EXPAND? everyone who is involved in theMy grandfather came over on a boat One reason there’s so much operation has the freedom to engage consolidation is retailers have been and interact with the customers andand through Ellis Island when he was unable to differentiate themselves educate them. Buzzwords in business successfully. The recipe my grandfather lately are employee engagement.10 months old in 1903. He graduated had was to procure the best, sell the In 1994 when we took over, the best, treat everyone like guests and industry had changed. We saw thatfrom high school and went to work invite them back. We use different the traditional grocery store—us at the words today, but the concepts are the time—was going to die. We needed toin a butcher shop called Diedro’s. He same. We put a lot of emphasis on innovate and create a differentiated sourcing our products and knowing our experience. We took the position thatsuggested that they had an opportunity sources. We have a strong connection we were already pretty good in the with Where Food Comes From to service side, so were going to ramp upif they put produce and grocery items it, accomplish that. We also try to carry and invest in that. Then in 2000, we unique, different, trendy and exciting asked what we could do on the productthey would be easy extra sales because foods along with the regular stuff (we side. My grandfather always tried carry Cheerios like everybody else). to carry good products—but we goteverybody started their shopping with Mostly, we try to create a very pleasant heavy into local produce and expanded experience for our customers who our approach toward fresh foods andthe center of the plate meat protein. typically dread grocery shopping. where we were buying them.Mr. Diedro, being a stubborn German SUMMER 2017much like my grandfather, said, “That’sridiculous, you’re just making excusesas to why you don’t sell more meat thanmy other stores.” In 1933, four yearsafter opening his own butcher shop, hedecided his vision was the right one andopened up Cleveland’s first supermarketas defined by having some groceries andsome produce with the meat.16 Where Food Comes From

HOW IMPORTANT IS IT FOR YOUR but it’s one that pays off endlessly. We WHAT DO YOUR STORES MEAN TOCUSTOMERS TO FEEL LIKE THEY count on our associates to tell our stories. THE COMMUNITIES THEY’RE IN?KNOW THE STORY BEHIND THEIRFOOD? HOW MUCH OF YOUR PRODUCT Food deserts are often talked about, so IS SOURCE-VERIFIED AND WHY IS it’s almost easier to answer that question It’s very important. Our customer THAT IMPORTANT TO YOU AND by asking, “How do people feel whenbase is educated and pretty affluent in YOUR CUSTOMER? they don’t have a Heinen’s solution?”general. They—as well as the millennial Which is a very high quality companygeneration—are very interested in where Our major protein components, that’s out there working very hard tofood comes from and how the food is beef, pork and chicken, arehandled. They don’t beat on us and certified by Where Food Comesdemand a story behind their food, but From and labeled accordingly.when you have a product that has a story We’re committed to helpingand you tell that story, it sells very well. people understand that we have a third party that goesHOW DO YOU TELL THAT STORY? out and source-verifies for us. We don’t have the money to get on TV Our hope is that they’ll end up verifying even more items. Iand radio and scream at the top of ourvoice. We depend on our associates to think our customers have more trust bring the safest and freshest foods andtell the story. All of our meat managers in a non-governmental or privatewill go out and visit our feedyards and audit. The whole idea of a third-party at the same time creating a pleasant andproduction plants so they can explain verification process is strategically andhow the animals are handled and how conceptually a good idea. I believe educational experience all about food.they’re raised to their team and then they it’s going to become more and morecan explain it to our customers. We’re necessary to gain the trust of the People can make grocery shopping abig on taking our department managers consumer because I believe there iswherever possible to see the raising and a mistrust in the food supply system celebration of food any time they want.production of food. It’s a real investment, that continues to grow. The amount of variety in all categories SUMMER 2017 of food is so astounding, so grocery stores serve such an important role in the community to give people good quality, safe, wholesome food. Where Food Comes From 17

going deep | ALL ABOUT ALMONDSThe Nuts and Hulls of Almonds Almonds are thought to have originated in the Mediterranean area of Europe. Explorers atealmonds while travelling the Silk Road on their way to central and eastern Asia. The almond treewas brought to California from Spain in the mid-1700s by the Franciscan padres. By the turn ofthe 20th century, almonds were firmly established in California’s Central Valley. Suprisingly, thealmond is not a member of the nut family, but rather is actually a family member of stone fruitssuch as nectarines, peaches, plums and cherries.Almond Nutritional ValuesFor every ounce of almonds…6 4 13 1grams of grams grams of gram of protein of fiber unsaturated saturated fat fatBEES 1. Hives arrive 2. Bees forage 3. Moving from 4. Almonds 5. Bees then in almond for pollen and tree to tree, are bees’ first move on to nectar in the they pollinate natural food pollinate other orchards just almond source after crops and before the orchard. make honey. blossoms. Each winter.trees blossom. fertilized flower3.5 will become an3.0 almond.2.52.01.5 Good signs1.0 After a drop off in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the honey-producing bee.5 colonies in the U.S. are at a 20-year high, reaching around 2.75 million in 2014. 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 00 02 04 06 08 10 12 14 HONEY-PRODUCING BEE COLONIES IN THE U.S. 1986–2014 IN MILLIONSA Couple Cool Stats… 890,000 bearing acres of almond orchards90% of Almond are in California Orchards are Family Farms18 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017

Almonds are Used For1. BUTTER OR PASTEApplications: alternative to other nut butters and filling for chocolate, cereal bars, confectionary, bakery 2. MEAL OR FLOUR Applications: European-style baked goods, gluten-free items, sauce thickener, coating for fried foods 3. OIL Applications: salad dressings and cold dishes (also non-food items such as cosmetics and moisturizer) 4. MILK Applications: lactose, animal or soy alternative FROM ALMONDS TO YOU 1. Natural Growth Cycle 3. Processing Climate: (mild, wet winters and hot, dry Huller Sheller: (the three almond summers) products are separated) Dormant season: Resting up (the more winter chill hours, the stronger spring bloom) Hulls – livestock feed Spring Bloom: Honey bees (The blossoms Shells – alternative energy source are pollinated by the buzzers) and livestock bedding The Split: In Mid-August, hulls begin to split Kernel – human food source (the wider the split, the drier the almonds) Sorting: (kernels are cleaned of any remaining debris and sorted by grade) 2. Harvest 4. Distribution Shakers: (machines shake the trees Three Ways: (1. Whole brown- and almonds fall to the ground) skin kernels; 2. Used in almond- Sweepers: (swept into rows for a enhanced goods like cereal and pick-up machine) energy bars; 3. On-site processing, flavored, sliced or diced.) Do you like green… Almonds? Try them and you may! Green almonds are a Mediterranean delicacy, which are soaked inbrine or in milk, rolled in sea salt and eaten. The green almondsare also featured in a wide variety of recipes, from soups andsalads to main courses and desserts. Gaining popularity withspecialty and celebrity chefs, the green almonds have a grape-like texture with a fresh flavor similar to that of cucumber andare available for about an eight-week period in early spring. The earliestgreen almonds picked are in a gelatinous state and can be consumedwhole--hull included. SUMMER 2017 Where Food Comes From 19

Cerise Ranch, Salmon, Idaho20 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017

The Hatfields,Ace the Bodybuilder and Shinrai The whos, whys and hows behind Country Natural Beef’s radical idea. By Bob Welch Photos Courtesy of Country Natural BeefSUMMER 2017 Where Food Comes From 21

t’s amazing what some people do There, she found Ace. A muscle-bound when backed into a corner. Some fitness fanatic she describes as a “Jack Lalanne-type.” He told her that he did folks fight, some run, some give in. Doc not think red meat was bad—in fact he and Connie Hatfield—ranchers in eastern recommended it as part of a healthy Oregon—didn’t do any of those things. diet—but he wanted it lean. What he Instead, they thought. didn’t like was the possibility of hormones and antibiotics in his beef. In fact, he It was 1986, interest rates were up, shared his own frustrations with Connie cattle prices were down and the solvency that he was forced to go to South America of the Hatfield’s ranch was in question. to find the kind of beef he wanted. The public perception of red meat was at an all-time low, as was the idea of “All the ranchers and all the retailers get in a very large circle—literally—and everybody in that coop has a voice.”Doc and Connie Hatfield ranchers as environmentalists. Things Connie was astounded. She had the looked bleak. From the corner they were beef he wanted just a few miles down backed into, Connie made a trip to a the road. From the corner they were Nutrisystem in Bend, Ore. She and Doc backed into, the Hatfields began to see were thinking, searching, hoping for a a way out. They invited their neighbors path forward. to talk over an idea for a branded beef cooperative. “They were able to get a core group of about 14 ranches,” Alan Kartchner, marketing lead for Country Natural Beef, said. “Then they made contacts with some local stores—Newport Avenue Market is a store in Bend and they were one of the first that truly carried the product.” It didn’t just take off instantly, though. Called Oregon Natural Beef at the time, the co-op had to figure out a consistent feeding program, a packer who would process their beef the way they needed it processed as well as how to keep a year-round supply. Seasonal beef was not worth the trouble for a retailer. They worked out the details—and from the 10,000 cows the co-op represented, eventually got to the point of supplying five head of cattle a week. Perhaps just as important as the22 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017

logistical maze they navigated in that From Oregon With Love (or Oregon Defrees Ranch, Sumpter, Ore.first year was framing a companyvision. Though tweaked and revised, Kara ai). The show romanticized a youngthe spirit of what they were trying todo was captured within the first year of Japanese boy’s experience working inorganization. rural Oregon. Tanaka was a fan and he “Marketing is consumer driven. wanted Oregon beef in his restaurants.Our goal is to provide a sustainablemeans through a group to profitably He called the Oregon Department ofmarket quality beef products desiredby the consumer while retaining every Agriculture and the only people theypossible bit of independence. Our plan knew of raising branded beef solely inis to return proceeds realized frommarketing Natural Country Beef to the that state—with the infrastructure torancher, rather than for the organizationto acquire capital assets. Guidelines for hit the ground running—was Oregonthe organization are: to be grass roots Natural Beef.producer controlled, to contain a bareminimum of administrative costs, and The two parties struck a deal. Kyotarufor the costs of operation to come froma percentage of producer’s revenue. had 800 restaurants with patrons whoCountry Natural Beef is an idea thatneeds to be constantly examined, not an wanted to know where their foodentity that can be bought or sold.” came from. The relationship worked The Hatfields and their neighbors were wonderfully. Early on, Kyotaru investedseeing their way out of the corner. Thevision of a consumer-driven cooperative in packing plants, thereby decreasingwas becoming clearer and clearer. Givethe people what they want. Still, it wasn’t their costs on the meat.as if business just boomed. Distribution “We were getting a fair price already,”was still very limited. But a foundationwas laid. Kartchner said. “We said, ‘That’s fantastic What is it they say about luck? That’s you’ll be getting a cheaper product,’ andwhere hard work and opportunity meet? they said, ‘No, we’re going to take half ofWhatever the case, three years into thegrand experiment, a phone call from that benefit and we’re going to give thethe Oregon Department of Agriculturechanged the future of Country Natural other half to you.’ That set a precedent forBeef in an unexpected way. how we try to do business with people.” A restaurant company from Japan, The Japanese name for that sort ofKyotaru, needed beef. But the company’spresident, Hiroshi Tanaka, didn’t want business relationship is Shinrai. It’sjust any beef. From 1984-1996, there wasa Japanese television program called the idea that two companies can work together for the benefit of both. Later, the Japanese economy tanked, and Kyotaru was facing serious financial issues. “They were suffering and had committed to buy a bunch of cattle and pay that upfront fee and they couldn’t do it,” Kartchner related. “So we said, ‘Don’t worry about it, we’re in a different place now and we can work with you the way SUMMER 2017 Where Food Comes From 23

The Hatfields,Ace the Bodybuilderand Shinrai you worked with us.’ Every time we look CNB in-store event.  at a supplier or someone we’re working with, we really try to approach it from way Country Natural Beef would do that Shinrai angle and make it a long-term business going forward. beneficial relationship for both parties.” From the beginning, the pricing Though that relationship did not model was deliberately not based on the endure, it gave the co-op enough markets—rather a cost of production stability to expand into other domestic model. That means sometimes Country markets—particularly Whole Foods Natural Beef producers miss out on and New Seasons, a Portland area upward price trends. But it also means retailer. And, more importantly, the they miss out on the market crashes. Kyotaru relationship influenced the “That can be a hard pill to swallow SUMMER 2017 if you’re not committed,” Kartchner said. “Our producers have to have that commitment and take a longer view. You have to want to be connected to that end product. One of the downsides and benefits of Country Natural Beef is you own that product until slaughter.” Members of the co-op are also required to participate in in-store demos once a year as well as being actual board members. At the annual meeting, they gather in a large circle and discuss the path forward for the entity. “All the ranchers and all the retailers get in a very large circle—literally—and everybody in that coop has a voice,” Kartchner explained. “Each ranch is part of the board of the co-op, which can get cumbersome at times, but in a good way. Each of those decisions need to be talked about and discussed by all members. We feel its important to have the retailers24 Where Food Comes From

in the room while we’re making those are true partnerships.”decisions and get their input, because we What the founders of Country Naturaldon’t want to end up doing somethingthat’s not consumer-focused.” Beef wanted to emphasize was that the co-op is an idea. It’s not a building, not Further, all Country Natural Beef a ranch, not a corporate manual, but anranchers’ products and practices are idea that would help producers of foodthird-party verified by IMI Global. Every connect with consumers of food in a18 months, an inspector conducts afarm visit to ensure that the animals are meaningful and sustainable way. Cerise Ranch, Salmon, Idahobeing raised not only to the all-natural “In an organization like this, it takes astandards required by the retailers, butthe proper treatment of the cattle as well. lot of work,” Kartchner said. “We look at “All CNB ranchers are audited to organizations who make all the decisionsthe standards developed by the GlobalAnimal Partnership,” Kartchner said. from the top and say, ‘Wow,’ but that’s not“Some of the ranches maintain a Step who we are. For who our ranchers are,1 rating, some do Step 4, which isrequired by Whole Foods. The standards that wouldn’t work. That sets us apart.”focus on maintaining low stress,humane handling practices throughout Perhaps the best demonstration ofthe lifecycle of the cow. It’s individual what makes Country Natural Beefvisits to individual ranches.” special, though, is its ability to be a Once the cattle reach about 800 bridge in what’s becoming a more andpounds, they’re shipped to one of afew finishing feed lots where they are more polarized—and even nasty—world.fed a uniform ration designed to keep “It’s an interesting thing when youall Country Natural Beef consistentwherever it’s purchased. At slaughter, the can get a room full of conservative,co-op takes over ownership in order tomarket the beef. rural, religious ranchers and put them “We make agreements with the in the same room with liberal, urban-different customers in terms of what they dwelling, secular people and they getwill and won’t take and then we haveto find a home for the meat they don’t along because they care about the foodtake,” Kartchner said. and the quality of the food,” Kartchner The co-op essentially has three said. “You don’t have the strife and thebusiness divisions: marketing,finance and production. And rather issues that are so often are prevalentthan a corporate headquarter officehandling that work, a different ranch in the world. Our end consumers areis essentially contracted by co-op foreach responsibility. So, there are three often very different people than ourdifferent offices for CNB based at three ranchers are, but those differencesdifferent ranches. don’t seem to matter.” “The co-op does not own any assets,”Kartchner said. “Essentially, we’vechosen not to grow beyond who weare. We’ve decided not to get big sowe couldn’t sell ourselves out even ifwe wanted to. We offer a year-roundproduct that’s consistent in qualityand taste. We don’t have contractualrelationships with our partners. They SUMMER 2017 Where Food Comes From 25

something to chew on | FAMILY RECIPE BARBECUE CHIPOTLE BURGERS Total Recipe Time: 25 to 30 minutes Makes 4 servings. INGREDIENTS 1 pound Ground Beef (93% lean or leaner) 1/2 cup beer 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons ketchup 1 tablespoon minced chipotle peppers in adobo sauce 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce RECIPE AND PHOTO COURTESY OF THE BEEF CHECKOFF 4 slices frozen Texas Toast 2 spears pickled okra, slicedINSTRUCTIONS package directions. Cut each piece of toast in half.   To prepare barbecue sauce, combine beer, brown For each sandwich, spread 1 tablespoon barbecuesugar, ketchup, chipotle peppers and Worcestershire sauce over one toast half. Top with burger, anothersauce in saucepan; bring to a boil. Simmer 8 to 10 tablespoon sauce and okra slices. Close sandwich. minutes until sauce is thickened; set aside. TIPS Lightly shape Ground Beef into four 1/2-inch thick -Cooking times are for fresh or thoroughly thawedpatties. Place patties on grid over medium, ash- ground beef. Color is not a reliable indicator ofcovered coals. Grill, covered, 8 to 10 minutes (over ground beef doneness. medium heat on preheated gas grill, covered, 7 to 9 -Fresh Texas toast, buttered, may be used instead ofminutes) until instant-read thermometer inserted frozen product.horizontally into center registers 160°F, turning -Dill pickle chips or pickled jalapeño peppers mayoccasionally.  be substituted for pickled okra. Meanwhile, prepare Texas Toast according toNUTRITIONper serving: 352 calories; 15 g fat (5 g saturated fat; 3 g monounsaturated fat); 75 mg cholesterol; 410 mg sodium; 27g carbohydrate; 2.3 g fiber; 26 g protein; 5.0 mg niacin; 0.4 mg vitamin B6; 2.1 mcg vitamin B12; 3.4 mg iron; 18.4 mcgselenium; 5.5 mg zinc; 72.3 mg choline.This recipe is an excellent source of protein, zinc, niacin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12 and selenium, and a good source of iron.26 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017



something to chew on | UNEXPECTED SUSTAINABILITYThe Battle in the Sky for Your WineEver stop to consider the biggest threats to the production of your favorite vino? A grumpy vintner? Corkshortages? Prohibition? No, among the most surprising threats to wine production are the seeminglyinnocuous European Starlings and House sparrows. They love grapes and are particularly attracted tovineyards. The birds are constantly in the hovering around the grape-covered slopes, testing the fruit until—like a fine wine—it’s perfect for consumption. Large flocks of these birds can devastate a vineyard costingthe winemaker thousands of dollars a day feeding birds rather than making wine.Scarecrows and netting areamong some of the failed solutions to the problem. The best solution, however, has become falcons. Falconsare brought in two weeks prior to the grapes being edible and stay until the harvest has ended. While onsite, the falcons in the air project a cone--a bubble of space--that is bird-free. No pest bird will risk enteringthis cone.The falcons don’t prey on the birds--their mere presence keeps them at bay—keeping vineyards’produce safe in a sustainable, chemical-free and non-polluting way. How cool is that?28 Where Food Comes From SUMMER 2017