advance weave document

AWDC ADVANCED WEAVE DESIGN AND CAD MOHAMMED SAFWAN

Textile design CONTENTS 01 02 Theory Checks and stripes Double cloth 04 Pin stripes 16 Interchange double cloth 04 Awning stripes 17 Window pane 18 Wadded double cloth 05 Madras checks 19 Stitched double cloth 05 Stitched wadded double cloth 06 Triple cloth 07 Advance weave Documention

Textile design 03 04 Colour weave effect Swatch simulations Birds eye effect 28 Interchange double 38 Hounds tooth effect 30 cloth ( stripes ) Step effect 32 Hairline effect 34 Interchange double 40 cloth ( checks ) Wadded double 42 cloth ( stripes ) Wadded double 44 cloth ( checks ) Stitched wadded 46 double cloth Extra warp design 48 Advance weave Documention

004 Textile design DOUBLE CLOTH INTERCHANGE DOUBLE CLOTH Double cloth is a descriptive term applied Interchange double cloth is a weave where in weaving to fabrics produced by combin- the warp order is reversed, so that the back ing two single cloths into one. Each one layer and face layer gets interchanged. of these single cloth is constructed with its own systems of warp and filling, the com- x F2 x B2 bination is effected in the loom interlacing x F1 x B1 some of the warp or filling threads of one cloth into the other cloth at certain inter- F1 F2 B1 B2 vals, thus fastening them. In double cloth face layer is lifted up while weaving the Warp Ratio - 1:1 (F1B1F2B2) back layer. WeftRatio-1:1 (F1B1F2B 2) Example x x x B2 Face Layer - Plain weave Back Layer - Plain weave x F2 xxx B1 x F2 x B2 x F1 x F1 x B1 F1 B1 F2 B2 F1 F2 B1 B2 1.MD2 arBk2 colour on face and light colour Warp Ratio - 2:1 (F1F2B1F1F2B2) Weft on back Ratio - 1:3 (F1B1B2B1F2B2B1B2) xx x x x B2 x x x B2 x x x xx B1 x F2 xx x x x B2 xx x B1 x x F2 x F1 x x x xx B1 B1 F1 B2 F2 xx x x x B2 M2 B2 2.Dark colour on back and light colour Advance weave x x x xx on face Documention B1 x x F1 F1 F2 B1 F1 F2 B2

Textile design WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH A wadded double cloth consists of a thick Example threads ( waddinng thread ) which is in- sterted in between the face and back layer. Here, Used especially for coating, blankets, and Ratio = 4:1 upholstery Shafts = 4 shafts for ground weave and 8 shafts for extra warp F B x x x B2 F F x F2 xx WADDED WADDED THREAD xxx B1 x xx THREADS x F1 x xxx F1 B1 F2 B2 x M2 B2 Ground weave x xx x x x xx x xx x xx xx xx STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH x xx x x x In stitched double cloth, the two layers of Pattern using extra warp fabric are connected where selected extra warp threads of one of them weave with Advance weave the weft of the other, thereby forming a Documention stitched effect.

006 Textile design STITCHED WADDED DOUBLE TRIPLE CLOTH CLOTH It involves the insertion of a vadded yarn Triple cloth has three layers of fabric. as well as a stitched yarn after a constant Face layer, Middle layer and Back layer. interval while weaving the double cloth, suf- ficient enough to cover the vadded thread. While weaving the face layer the back layer and the middle layers are set to resting. Example While the middle layer is weaved the face layer is lifted up and the back layer is set Here, resting. Finaly while weaving the back layer Ratio = 4:1 both the face layer and the middle layer is Shafts = 4 shafts for ground weave and 8 lifted up. shafts for extra warp Example xx WADDED x xx THREADS Face Layer - Plain weave Middle Layer - Plain weave x Back Layer - Plain weave xxx x Warp Ratio - 1:1:1 (F1M1B1F2M2B2) Weft Ratio - 1:1:1 (F1M1B1F2M2B2) x xx x x F2 x M2 x B2 x x x F1 x M1 x B1 F1 F2 M1 M2 B1 B2 xx xx xxx B2 x xx x M2 x xx F2 xx B1 x M1 xx xx xx x xx F1 x xx x xx x x x Advance weave Documention x Pattern using extra warp F1 M1 B1 F2 M2 B2

Textile design WEAVE POINT SIMULATIONS Advance weave Documention

008 Textile design PLAIN WEAVE 2/2 WEFT RIB Advance weave Documention

Textile design 2/2 WARP RIB BASKET WEAVE Advance weave Documention

010 Textile design 4/4 TWILL WEAVE 3/1 TWILL WEAVE (STRAIGHT DRAFTING) Advance weave Documention

Textile design 3/1 TWILL WEAVE (POINTED DRAFTING) SATIN WEAVE Advance weave Documention

012 Textile design SATEEN MOCK LENO WEAVE Advance weave Documention

Textile design HUCK A BACK HONEY COMB WEAVE Advance weave Documention



Textile design STRIPES AND CHECKS Advance weave Documention

016 Textile design PIN STRIPES It is categorized very neatly by the type of line that runs across the fabric, the direc- tion it runs, its thickness and the distance between the stripes. A pinstripe is extremely thin, only around 1/30th of an inch in width, giving the im- pression of a pin being repeatedly used to mark the surface of the fabric. One single warp yarn is used to create the continuous stripe pattern, with the distance between stripes being as little as 1/10th of an inch all the way up to a whole inch. Advance weave Documention

Textile design AWNING STRIPES In the style of the protective canopies over windows and doors, awning stripes are equally-sized, fairly wide, vertical stripes of solid color typically a darker color against a white or light color. This bright, bold pattern is common in coastal, beach, and nautical decors. Advance weave Documention

018 Textile design WINDOW PANE When a graph check contains larger squares, the pattern may be referred to as windowpane, referencing windows that have divided panes, which are rarer today than they once were. Advance weave Documention

Textile design MADRAS CHECKS A lightweight, hand woven cotton fabric with a plaid, striped or checkered pattern that’s made with semi-permanent vegeta- ble dyes known for bleeding to give it the soft, muted colors it’s known for, although madras are also commonly patterned with plaid, stripes, and checks. Originally, madras fabric came from the region of Madras, India. A textile can only be called madras if it comes from this Indian region. Madras is often used to make shirts and dresses. Advance weave Documention



Textile design COLOR AND WEAVE EFFECT Advance weave Documention

022 Textile design COLOR AND WEAVE EFFECT The form or pattern produced by a weave dark 2 medium & 2 light. in combination with the order in which two Irregular effects are created with an ar- or more colours are used for warp and rangement of yarns that do not follow a weft. regular pattern. A variety of effects can be obtained with eg : 2 dark & 1 light, 1 dark & 3 light , etc. basic weaves such as plain, twill and satin Regular effects are produced by a simple weaves, using colored yarns to create com- order of colored yarns in weaves, through plicated weaving structures. which continuous line effects, hound’s The effects can be classified as regular and tooth, birds eye, spot and hairline effect irregular. and so on. Regular effects are created with arrange- ments of threads in a repeating manner. eg: 2 light & 2 dark , 4 light & 4 dark , 2 8 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT PLAIN WEAVE Advance weave Documention

Textile design 8 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT TWILL WEAVE 8 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT SATIN WEAVE Advance weave Documention

024 Textile design 4 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT PLAIN WEAVE 4 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT SATIN WEAVE Advance weave Documention

Textile design 4 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT TWILL WEAVE 2 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT SATIN WEAVE Advance weave Documention

026 Textile design 2 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT SPLAIN WEAVE 2 ENDS DARK AND LIGHT TWILL WEAVE Advance weave Documention

Textile design TYPES OF COLOR AND WEAVE EFFECT Advance weave Documention

028 Textile design BIRDS EYE EFFECT xxx x 1,5,6,7 A birdseye is a spot-like micro-design for xxx x x 1,5,6,7 worsted wool. However, to obtain the round “eye” in the cloth, the sequence of colours x xx x 1,5,6,7 is also fundamental. Without it, the eye wouldn’t be circular but square, which xxx x 1,5,6,7 wouldn’t produce the same avian effect. x x x x 1,5,6,7 x xx x 1,5,6,7 xx x x 1,5,6,7 x xxx 1,5,6,7 12 345678 Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention

030 Textile design HOUNDS TOOTH EFFECT xx xx The most popular weave for color and xx xx weave effects is 2/2 twill. With a 4:4 color- ing, arranged as in the following figure, it xx xx gives a distinctive and decorative pattern known as Hound’s tooth or dog’s tooth x xx x when a relatively fine construction gives a small, and as hound’s tooth when a coarser xx xx construction gives a larger pattern. xx xx xx xx x xx x 12 345678 Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention

032 Textile design STEP EFFECT xxxx A 1:1 order of coloring with a 2/2 twill xxxx weave (for finer effect) or 1:2 order of color- ing with a twill weave (for finer effect) or 2:1 xxxx order of coloring with a twill 3/3 weave (for coarser effect) gives a useful effect known xxxx as step effect. xxxx xxx x xx xx x xxx 12 345678 Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention

034 Textile design HAIRLINE EFFECT xx xx The form or pattern produced by a weave xx xx in combination with the order in which two or more colours are used for warp and xx xx weft. xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx 12 345678 Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention



Textile design SWATCHES SIMULATION Advance weave Documention

038 Textile design SWATCH 01 - Interchange double cloth (stripes) Design Name:Interchange double cloth x xx x xx 1,3,4,5,7,8 (stripes) x x 3,7 Design Number: MS01 xx x xx x 1,2,3,5,6,7 Reed space: 40’s x x Warp Count: 2/20’s x xx x xx 1,5 Weft Count: 2/20’s x x 1,3,4,5,7,8 Denting Order: xx x xx x 3,7 Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent x x 1,2,3,5,6,7 Drafting Order: Block Drafting, 34 78 1,5 Block A - 1,2,3,4 (Straight) 12 56 Block B - 5,6,7,8 (Straight) Total number of ends : 232 Dx x x B2 D x x x B2 Warp Pattern : 1 dark 1 light Weft Pattern : 1 dark 1 light yarn Lx F2 L x F2 Number of shafts: 8 D xx x B1 Fabric Width: 5” Dxx x B1 Graph: Lx F1 Lx F1 F1 B1 F2 B2 B1 F1 B2 F2 LD L D DL DL Block A Block B Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention

040 Textile design SWATCH 02 - Interchange double cloth (checks) Design Name:Interchange double cloth x xx x xx 1,3,4,5,7,8 Design Number: MS02 x x 3,7 Reed space: 40’s xx x xx x 1,2,3,5,6,7 Warp Count: 2/20’s x x Weft Count: 2/20’s x xx x xx 1,5 Denting Order: x x 1,3,4,5,7,8 Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent xx x xx x 3,7 Drafting Order: Block Drafting, x x 1,2,3,5,6,7 Block A - 1,2,3,4 (Straight) 34 78 1,5 Block B - 5,6,7,8 (Straight) 12 56 Denting order: Body: 2 in a dent Selvedge: 4 in a dent D x x x B2 Dx x x B2 Total number of ends : 232 L x F2 Warp Pattern : 1 dark 1 light Lx F2 Weft Pattern : 1 dark 1 light yarn Dxx x B1 D xx x B1 Number of shafts: 8 Lx Fabric Width: 5” F1 Lx F1 Graph: B1 F1 B2 F2 F1 B1 F2 B2 DL DL LD L D 4 Block A 3 Block B Dx x x B2 D x x x B2 L x F2 Lx F2 D xx x B1 Dxx x B1 Lx Lx F1 F1 F1 B1 F2 B2 B1 F1 B2 F2 LD L D DL DL Advance weave 1 Block A 2 Block B Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention

042 Textile design SWATCH 03 - WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH ( STRIPES ) Design Name: Wadded double cloth De- x xx x 1,3,5,7 sign Number: MS03 1,3,4,5,7,8 Reed space: 40’s x xx x xx 3,7 Warp Count: 2/20’s 1,2,3,5,6,7 Weft Count: 2/20’s xx 1,5 Denting Order: Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent xxx xxx Drafting Order: Straight Drafting (12345678 - 12345678) xx Denting order: Body: 2 in a dent Selvedge: 4 in a dent 12 34 5678 Total number of ends : 232 Warp Pattern : 10 dark 10 light Weft Pattern : 4 dark 1 wadded yarn Number of shafts: 8 Fabric Width: 5” Graph: Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention

044 Textile design SWATCH 04 - WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH ( CHECKS ) Design Name:Interchange double cloth x xx x 1,3,5,7 Design Number: MS04 1,3,4,5,7,8 Reed space: 40’s x xx x xx 3,7 Warp Count: 2/20’s 1,2,3,5,6,7 Weft Count: 2/20’s xx 1,5 Denting Order: Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent xxx xxx Drafting Order: Straight Drafting (12345678 - 12345678) xx Denting order: Body: 2 in a dent Selvedge: 4 in a dent 12 34 5678 Total number of ends : 232 Warp Pattern : 10 dark 10 light Weft Pattern : 4 dark 1 wadded yarn 4 light 1 wadded yarn Number of shafts: 8 Fabric Width: 5” Graph: Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention

046 Textile design SWATCH 05 - STITCHED WADDED DOUBLE CLOTH Design Name:Interchange double cloth x x 1,3 Design Number: MS05 x xx 1,3,4 Reed space: 40’s x 3 Warp Count: 2/20’s xx x 1,2,3 Weft Count: 2/20’s x 1 Denting Order: 34 Body: 2 in a dent selvedge: 4 in a dent 12 Drafting Order: Straight Drafting 4 shaft - ground weave x 4 8 shaft - extra warp xx 3,5 Denting order: xx 2,6 Body: 2 in a dent Selvedge: 4 in a dent Total number of ends : 232 x x 4,8 Number of shafts: 8 Fabric Width: 5” x xx 1,4,6 Warp Pattern : dark Weft Pattern : 10 dark 1 waddded yarn x x 4,8 xx 2,6 xx 3,5 x 4 1 2 3456 7 8 Extra warp design Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention

048 Textile design SWATCH 06 - EXTRA WARP DESIGN Design Name:Interchange double cloth Design Number: MS06 Reed space: 60’s Warp Count: 2/20’s Weft Count: 2/20’s Denting Order: 2 in adent Drafting Order: 1” plain weave – straight drafting 0.5 “ extra warp – straight drafting 1 “ plain weave – straight drafting 1 “ extra warp – pointed drafting 1 “ plain weave – straight drafting Ratio – 4:1 Number of shafts: 24 Ground weave – 4 shafts .5 “ extra warp – 10 shafts 1 “ extra warp – 10 shafts Total number of ends : 270 Fabric Width: 4.5” Warp Pattern : dark yarn Weft Pattern : dark yarn Graph: Advance weave Documention

Textile design Advance weave Documention