Switzerland Schipfen Quartier in ZürichLakeside metropolis Zürich is renowned for its art, culture, fashion andsummertime fun. Europe’s wealthiest, cleanest and most efficient city boasts bang-on-trend, resolutely top-quality living. Swiss bliss! EuroTravel | 51
Switzerland Nestled on its famous lake and the of speech, peace, imaginativeness and time out in trendsetting Greulich’s River Limmat in the very heart of originality. Mozart and Goethe reaped birch-tree-grove garden and Europe, action-packed Zürich’s this forward-thinking city’s benefits luxuriate in palatial Alden‘s suites. an urban delight in a country and past residents include Einstein, Top lakeside addresses include Wagner and Lenin. Nowadays, its longstanding Marriott and CentralNfull of quaint postcard-perfect extraordinarily-high number of Plaza, exuding turn-of-the-century millionaires, including Tina Turner, charm. Dynamic design-concept- villages. Considered Switzerland’s makes it one of the world’s most hotel 25hours features funky, design- gourmet and cultural capital, it’s prestigious and prosperous places savvy rooms. Sleep surrounded by an exceptionally-cosmopolitan to live. art following a whisky nightcap Swiss-German city drenched in at trendy Widder, which expertly rich tradition against an industrial- Famous for its financiers and integrates ancient Old Town houses’ charm-meets-contemporary- long-synonymous with banking stone walls with individually-styled design setting, Not only does it giants, Zürich’s low tax rate attracts private-roof-terraced rooms. Modern enjoy exceptional accessibility prominent international companies. design’s enhanced by mesmerising and excellent infrastructure, it‘s Swanky Switzerland‘s business vistas at architectural jewel Sorell surrounded by fragrant pine forests, capital’s also the world’s largest Zürichberg. With an idyllic nature reserves and world heritage gold-trading centre and home to inner courtyard, art-deco-style sites, all capped off with serene world-renowned research institutes. Wellenberg’s in an enviable location snow-capped mountains supplying Innovative ideas are welcomed here for shopaholics. on-the-doorstep skiing. and swiftly implemented, thanks to the city’s open attitude towards Ancient architecture and slick Life here pulsates beside, in and all-things-new. The Oberstrass swiss design on the water, with bang-in-the-city- and Unterstrass neighbourhoods As one of the world’s leading centre lake and river swimming as are home to Zürich’s wealthiest, cultural centres, Zürich hosts over part of the culture. Comprising 12 with the super-rich also lured to 50 museums and 100 art galleries, diverse districts, this aspirational the lake’s ‘Gold Coast’. Brimming with works ranging from 15th lifestyle-capital-on-water’s among with premium commercial real century Old Masters to modern the world’s top gallery cities, estate, Paradeplatz is Zürich’s most Swiss talent. Stroll around the city flaunts leading hotels, trend-setting expensive square. or get on your free-of-charge Züri restaurants, first-class shopping and rollt bike. Discover the new in the quality entertainment. Delve into Hot stopovers for old and old in the new, captivated Europe’s distant past, discovering sophisticated stays by seamlessly-blending, gorgeously- trend’n’tradition in a picturesque From first-class feel-at-home, long- preserved medieval and 20th-century medieval old town’s 2,000-year-old stay apartments and deluxe hotels to architecture. Impressive churches, cobblestoned streets. The formerly- budget havens, Zürich entices with including Grossmünster, founded industrial-turned-trendy districts a seriously high-standard quotient by Charlemagne, and eye-catching of Zürich-West and Aussersihl of accommodation. Recoup with Fraumünster, with Marc Chagall’s meanwhile are the booming creative cheap B&B sleeps at Cloud 9 or stained-glass windows, are the heart, with galleries, restaurants, bars Chez Charlotte, or bed down at skyline’s most distinctive landmarks and clubs continually opening. eco-friendly hotel Adler or Hotel but don’t miss Europe’s largest du Théâtre Money to burn? Still clock face on St. Peter’s. On theMoney money money... fashionable for US-style cocktails, site of a Roman fortress, historical For centuries, Zürich‘s been a magnet The Savoy dates from 1838. Take for avant-garde artists, authors and great thinkers drawn to the freedom52 | EuroTravel
Switzerland Night view of the Zurich donwtown “Classed among the world’s most expensive cities, this affluent, multifaceted lake-and-riverfront oasis operates withexpected Swiss commitment to the highest standards, reliability and precision…like clockwork! “World Class. Swiss Made”. EuroTravel | 53
Switzerland Lake ZurichLindenhof ’s the city’s ancient heart Make a splash in open-air sensational rooftop-Jacuzzi views.and a marvellous viewpoint. oases in an unspoilt Its deluxe B2 boutique hotel’s lakeside location designer rooms/dual-level suites/ The birthplace of art Lakeside lidos and other outdoor long-stay apartments brag directmovements, Zürich’s proud of its bathing areas come alive mid-May, spa access.flourishing art trade. Galleries and Mythenquai beach buzzes withgalore pepper Rämistrasse’s ‘art spring-and-summertime activity. Stylish shopping sprees in anmile’ and Löwenbräu brewery site. Refreshing river dips, natural hot upscale shopper’s paradiseAussersihl’s experiencing a gallery springs and Roman baths beckon Fashion-conscious label lover?boom and bourgeois boutique- against mountain backdrops or Watches and jewellery your bag?lined Bahnhofstrasse’s becoming nostalgic city walls. State-of-the- Along with luxury internationalincreasingly art-oriented. The art techniques make wellness oases brands like Louis Vuitton, GucciKunsthaus displays top-class works prerequisites for successful treatment and Hermès, the city offersby Munch and Picasso, while and head-to-toe pampering and upmarket Swiss collections andZürichhorn promenade houses super spa centres include Four urban Zürich labels such as cultHenry Moore’s sheep sculpture. The Points AsiaSpa. Indulge in opulent international sensation Freitag,internationally-acclaimed, ornate oriental bathing in Zürich’s oldest retailing edgy recycled bags fromOpera House presents premieres hamam, Fitnesspark Münstergasse high-rise cargo containers, alongand first-class ballet productions and or lakeside sauna-with-a-view with covetable budget finds.amazing acoustics make the concert Seebad Enge. Relax’n’rejuvenatehall one of the world’s best. The in the ex-Hürlimann brewery’s Each quarter presents uniquehistoric shipyard’s now a grandiose ThermalBad mineral baths in characteristics and shop styles.cultural centre complete with theatre 100-year-old vaults and take in World-famous Bahnhofstrasse’sand jazz club. Zürich’s shopping mile and first-54 | EuroTravel
Bahnhofstrasse Switzerland Shopping in Zurichport-of-call for luxury lovers, bling include Vivienne Westwood Chocoholic? You’ve hitglinting in the windows of Bulgari… and Nina Ricci, while the the right spot!Beyer…Cartier…Montblanc… world’s first furniture designer Exquisite and wickedly good,Swarovski…Tiffany…the nearer the store, Wohnbedarf still sells Le Swiss chocolate enjoys a worldwidelake, the more exclusive the brands. Corbusier’s famous armchairs. One- reputation and Zürich’s highThe Old Town’s home to traditional of-a-kind ‘personality matching’ concentration of confectionersspecialist shops and trendy outlets watchmaker-of-choice is inventive and stylish café culture ensureslike Tom Ford. Bookshops and Maurice de Mauriac. One-stop- epicures find it on every corner.florists vie alongside modish shops for superior-quality fashion Outlets include Sprüngli, with itsjewellery and home-grown labels. and gourmet shops, designer trademark, melt-on-the-tongueAncient artisan street Schipfe still department stores include Jelmoli Luxemburgerli macaroons, andteems with goldsmiths, woodcarvers (established 1899), Globus, Saus Teuscher, famous for its Champagneand other craftsmen. Elegant styles & Braus and the city’s ‘Harrods’, truffles. Opulent chocolate/smokedgrace boutiques along Storchengasse, venerable art-nouveau gem Grieder. salmon/Champagne pitstop CaféStrehlgasse, In Gassen and Wühre. Felix seduces. Don’t miss Schober’sIn up-and-coming Zürich-West, Penny pinching? Find fantastic decadent hot chocolate, visit favegourmet market hall Viaduct’s new and decond-hand threads from haunt for the art cognoscenti, grandunusual under-arch shops vend Fizzen, Lux Plus, Miroires des Modes café/bar/restaurant Volkshaus,small’n’tendy labels. and Razzo, where Zürich’s well-heeled stylishly-furnished Gran Café Motta ladies sell their ‘old’ quality vintage or Henrici. Cake aficionados choose Continuing Zürich’s Middle- clothing. Bargain hunters head to the cosy Cakefriends, while BernerAges silk tradition, glamorous flea markets at Bürkliplatz, Kanzlei Da Noi’s famous for Wähen tarts.haute couture silk specialists or Rosenhof curio market for wallet- People-and-river-watch at WühreFabric Frontline’s customers friendly finds. EuroTravel | 55
Switzerland Zurich culinary temptation Club Kaufleuten56 | EuroTravel
Switzerlandand step back in time in TeeCafé indulge to their heart’s delight at views and ‘show kitchen’ offering aSchwarzenbach’s colonial grocery. Aroma without breaking the bank. one-of-a-kind culinary experience.Merkur’s delighted die-hard choccie For quirky, albeit cheesy, dining Segantini’s mirrored dining roomfans since 1905. catch the ‘Fonduetram’. Oh, and radiates exotic glamour, while on the subject of trams, climb private members’ club Haute’s hip.Gastronomy in gourmet aboard the nostalgic Apéro Tram Whodunnit? Murder mystery feaststemples for discerning palates for a tantalising ride past some of unfold under Andy Warhol works atFrom the famous fondue and Zurich’s best scenery, Champagne Romantik Seehotel’s Sonnengallerie,archetypal Zürich dish Zürcher in hand! charming Kaiser’s Reblaube datesGeschnetzeltes (sliced veal) to from 1260, LindenhofkellerJapanese or Mediterranean menus, Michelin-starred eateries include serves speciality meat dishes andcreative chefs cook up extraordinary luxury-class fantasy resort Dolder Au Premier tenders avant-gardedishes with artistic twists on Grand’s, whose talented top chef’s gastronomic fare. Set against aculinary classics, introducing trademark’s inimitable experimental unique architectural backdropmodern cuisine to traditional fare such as lobster’n’strawberries. in the old paper factory, the neweateries. A city for gourmets, With celebrity guestlists including Sihlcity District’s home to Rüsterei.Zürich’s diverse cuisine’s paired the Swiss president, prime eatery Gourmet Gnüsserei’s showpiecewith impeccable service. Feast for wealthy gourmets, Rico’s 100-year-old oven lends a trendyon traditional Zürich specialties Kunststuben, offers exotic cuisine, urban edge. Landgasthof Wassberg’sprepared in the classic style or Restaurant Mesa muses modern a rural idyll, Helvetia’s ambitious,creative, contemporary international masterpieces for the palate (try award-winning chef thrills guestscuisine, reflecting the trend towards ‘Symphony for the Senses’) and Sein with regional, market-fresh cuisine,culinary creativity. Time-honoured serves up creative contemporary the culinary high-flying favourtreats in history-steeped guildhalls cuisine. For a culinary world tour, Sonnenberg and Tinto tempts withZunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten reserve Rigiblick Spice’s chef’s table Tasty tapas. Founded in 1898,or Waag…avant-guard venues... for European-Asiatic-fusion-food. über-chic chandelier-and-linen-fashionable outdoor restaurants… Establishments awarded prestigious bedecked Hiltl’s Europe’s firstthere’s even gastronomy hidden ‘Gault Millau’ points include vegetarian restaurant.behind former factory walls. Wash Wirtschaft zum Wiesengrund, sushidown with wonderful wines from bar Sala of Tokyo and converted Time to party in zesty zürich!first-class winelists. nobleman’s house Florhof. Dine A pulsating city by day and under genuine Chagalls and Mirós night, classy nightlife combines Appreciate apéritifs at cocktail at venerable Kronenhalle, the see- sophisticated luxury with urbanbar Dante, hipster rum specialist and-be-seen spot for stars such as socialising culture, with celebsBar 63 or elegant wine bar 4Tiere. Yves Saint-Laurent. including Paris Hilton spotted onHot riverside-meeting-spots such the city’s dancefloors. Whetheras Rathauscafé and Primitivo rival For fresh lake-to-your-plate it’s posh partying at legendarypopular floating bistro Pier 7 and fish, try Bianchi, Fischstube, Kaufleuten or grooving to 80’s hitslegendary Badi-Bar, Oberer Letten. Acqua, Lake Side or Seerose or at the oldest club Mascotte, Zürich‘sGood value traditional dishes sample seafood at French brasserie blossomed into party central with nodelight at the Alpenrose. Soak up Lipp. Enjoy exquisitely-prepared official closing times!an alternative artistic ambience lobster and oysters in Hummer-at value-for-money eaterie Ziegel und Austernbar, revel in Hotel Internationally-renownedOh Lac, while Italian lovers can Storchen’s riverbank Rôtisserie DJs entertain in vanguard clubs, terrace or Pur’s splendid island EuroTravel | 57
Switzerland If you go• Purchase a ZürichCARD for free lake, several surrounding golf courses city, lake and Alps. The mountain’stravel on trains, buses, trams, boats tempt with challenging courses and Planet Trail walk’s a fascinating tourand cable cars throughout the city wonderful views. taking in a solar system model alongand surrounding region. It also gives • Head to Bürkliplatz/Lakeside an enchanting ridge walk.you entry to around 40 museums, Promenade for paddleboats, take a • When it snows, Zürich’s a magical,hip clubs including the long- boat tour to the Rhine Falls, Europe’s sparkling wonderland…Glide away onestablished Mascotte, along with highest waterfall, or hire your own lakeside hideaway Romantik Seehotelculinary surprises in over 20 luxury yacht from Lago (www.lago- Sonne’s ‘Live on Ice’ package, gorestaurants plus discounts. zuerich.ch) or leading superyachting sledding surrounded by magnificentAvailable from www.zuerichcard.ch company Ocean Independence (www. snowy Swiss Alpine scenery or get a• Dive into lakeside oasis’ (Bads or oceanindependence.com), which bird’s-eye perspective of the city on aBadi), many of which are 100 years- offer the ultimate luxury experience helicopter VIP flight tour, including aold. The Freibad Allenmoos open-air alongside Swiss attention to detail glacier stop: www.helikopterflug.chpool complex has beautiful art-deco and quality. • Lake Zürich’s hiking trail showspavilions in manicured grounds while • Zürich’s Opera House offers a off the region’s historic towns andUtoquai’s an elegant collection of special service for overseas culture villages, castles, villas, pristinepools, pontoons and sunbathing lovers, including an opera ticket, shores and extensive wild woodland,decks favoured by the well-heeled train/plane travel, the ZürichCARD, taking in gourmet restaurants enafter-office set. Buy the three-month an overnight hotel stay plus other route. Discover German-speakingsummer pass (available from: www. services: www.opernhaus.ch Switzerland’s largest wine-growingsportamt.ch) to access them all. • Lake Zürich’s so clean it’s canton on vineyard hiking tours withFree water fun awaits at the Letten, certified as safe to drink! Drinking pitstops in off-the-beaten-track winewhere you’re carried by the current water also flows from approximately cellars. You can also take a tourin a huge cage at the river’s fastest- 1,200 fountains, many works of art of Zürich’s wine history at theflowing section. with a history spanning 500 years Viticulture Museum.• Exciting tours show a surprising (check out the Amazon fountain in • Do a day trip to ‘town of roses’side of Zürich, such as fascinating the Rennweg). Grab a top-quality, Rapperswil, with a medieval quarter,Old Town strolls or ‘Classic Trolley’ stainless steel souvenir ZH2O water superb castle and Switzerland’sstreetcar rides and lake cruises. bottle and fill her up! longest wooden bridge. EnjoySweet-toothed? Indulge in a • The Monday market at the Rimini- exclusive use of one of the world’schocolate-themed tour! bar in the summer is particularly smallest beauty and wellness oases…• An active lifestyle and sport are hip’n’trendy, focusing on flashy make The Setareh your very ownan integral part of Swiss culture outfits, new designer labels and private refuge! The spa town ofand society and Zürich’s abundant extravagant collector’s items. Baden also boasts a picturesqueinternational sporting facilities attract Don’t miss the bar’s glitter & old town, thriving cultural scene,ice hockey, biking, indoor curling, glamour evening. gourmet cuisine and Switzerland’sinline skating, waterskiing and • Take a cable car ride up Zürich’s most mineral-rich hot springs, alongtobogganing fans. With wakeboarding local mountain Üetliberg for with beautiful spas such as Hoteland other watersports galore on the impressive panoramic views of the Limmathof’s Novum.58 | EuroTravel
Switzerlandunconventional bars and open- bar/lounge Labor. Barfly’z is the Savour spectacular sunset views andair venues. Super-trendy, new- place for low-priced, high-quality candlelit dinners at heavenly Clouds,style-hub Zürich-West’s made cocktails. Head on to medieval- survey city lights’n’starry skies withit the European party town themed Adagio for under-chandelier classy cocktails in the ex-observatory’swith experimental party places dancing, Encore for wild partying, Jules Verne Panoramabar or Primeperpetually popping up, notably high-society club Diagonal or Tower, Switzerland’s tallest skyscraper.the Westend’s notorious nightspots. extravagant Amber. Forget Monte Proposing? Ascend Engelberg–TitlisIn the Old Town, Niederdorf ’s Carlo…world-class gambling mountain for majestic panoramasthe place for nightowls. After experiences at Zürich’s newly- from the 360°-rotating Rotair-dusk, Plan Lumière’s illuminations opened grand Casino guarantee Gondel. Hotel Ambassador offers antransform the city into a backdrop excitement’n’entertainment. exclusive roof terrace while wedding-of glitter’n’glamour, while waterside venue-with-a-view Uto Kulm’sareas become bars, stages and open- Get ready for romance... situated atop Mount Üetliberg.air cinemas. Meeting-points include Nostalgic steamboat trips…love Kyburg’s a fairytale castle, Hotellakeside barefoot-zone Barfussbar story tours taking in where Richard Baur au Lac’s set in Zürich’s mostand Flussbar. Bon vivants live it Wagner fell in love and Casanova’s picturesque private park while glossyup at Weinbistro Bü, design bar/ Zürich adventures...Europe’s guestlists enjoy neo-Baroque-stylerestaurants Angkor, LaSalle’s high- largest open-air rink…picnics in Eden au Lac’s enchanting honeymoonend glass-cubed Nietturm bar, and picturesque parks…it’s not hard to package, ensuring everything on yourepitome of retro-chic, TV studio/ find romantic spots to remember. wishlist comes true! ■ EuroTravel | 59
Europe Europe’s Creepiest Castles This article is an extract from Supernatural - The World Guide to Mysterious Places by Sarah Bartlett and published by Quarto in September, price £14.99 in hardback. The book is an absorbing and beautifully produced comprehensive guide to exploring the Earth’s supernatural heritage and where to seek out a mystical, otherworldly, or spine-chilling experience.60 | EuroTravel
Europe5 Creepiest Castles in GermanyGermany has a plethora of eerie-looking castles—multi-turreted fortifications guarding woodedvalleys and river bends and bristling with supernatural phenomena.1. Wolfsegg castle, Regensburg: a carriage stopped at the castle gates before lurchingHidden deep below this medieval castle is a limestone off into the dark. The ghost was not seen again, but oncave where restless specters are rumored to rise at night to moonlit nights a black carriage can be seen racing past thestalk the castle grounds. A phantom woman in white is castle entrance.believed to be Klara, the wife of a medieval knight, whobegan an affair with a local nobleman. When her husband 4. Plassenburg castle, kulmbach, Bavariafound out, he had the pair murdered and their bodies In the 15th century a widow named Katharina fell intossed into the cave. love with a prince. He vowed to marry her “if there were not four eyes between us,” meaning his parents.2. Stockenfels castle, Bavaria Misunderstanding him, she murdered her two children.This castle is said to be haunted by the souls of publicans Her horrified lover fled, and she was soon found dead.who, in life, cheated customers by diluting their beer. Her ghost is said to roam the castle, longing for herHere, upon a satan’s ladder reaching into a bottomless children, who fear her every step.well, the publicans must hand up buckets of water tosatan perched at the top. At midnight satan pours the 5. Eltz castle, Münstermaifeldwater into the river below. Many have heard the gushing Patrolled by the souls of medieval knights, Eltz stands onof phantom water, and the devil laughing. a rocky hilltop in a forested valley. The sound of laughter, the clatter of goblets, and the clink of armor echo in its3. Nordkirchen castle, Westphalia courtyards and towers. The armor and battle axe on theWhen the miserly debt collector who lived in this 16th- wall of the Countess’s Room were worn by Lady Agnes,century castle died, his terrifying specter returned to who died defending the castle from invasion. Her ghost ishaunt it. Local folk prayed for deliverance, and one night said to pace the room EuroTravel | 61
EuropeEdinburgh Castle ScotlandA phantom drumbeat haunts the battlements while mournful piping drifts through secret passages.Perched high on a rock overlooking the city of playing his pipes so those above could follow his progressEdinburgh, this foreboding Scottish stronghold has many below ground—disappeared without trace. Some saysupernatural associations. A haloed hound is believed his pipes can still be heard within the castle as his ghostto preside over the castle’s entrance, while apparitions wanders the passages beneath. On the esplanade belowof prisoners loom in the dank dungeons and the ghost the castle, hundreds of so-called witches were burnedof a headless drummer beats a morbid rhythm on the at the stake in the early 16th century. Among thembattlements. According to legend, this drumbeat warned was Janet Douglas, Lady of Glamis, accused of usingthe Scots of an English attack in 1296 when King witchcraft in an attempt to murder King James V ofEdward I of England captured the castle after a three-day Scotland. On walks along the esplanade, some havesiege. It is said that drummer was the first man to be slit claimed to see her screaming in the flames, while othersfrom ear to ear by an English sword. have described a feeling of being scorched by fire. As evening falls over the gray towers, her weeping ghost In the 17th century, secret tunnels were discovered is said to search for her son, who was sent to watch herrunning from the castle to the city center. According to horrific death.legend, a young piper sent to investigate the tunnels—62 | EuroTravel
EuropeBran Castle RomaniaA grisly medieval tyrant who impaled his victims on iron stakes stalks this Transylvanian castle.With its gothic towers piercing the stormy Transylvanian rotting corpses impaled on stakes beside the Danube. Vladsky, Bran Castle lives up to its reputation as a place of impaled everyone he considered to be an enemy, whetherterror. Once inhabited by Vlad the Impaler, a descendant a thief, a nobleman suspected of treachery, or a corruptof the House of Dracul, it was the real-life inspiration for priest. It is said he liked to dine with his men among theBram Stoker’s Gothic horror novel Dracula. The medieval impaled corpses, close to the castle walls. Some say heruler of the ancient region of Wallachia, Vlad used the drank the blood of the dying and the dead. The castle iscastle as a base in his war against the encroaching Ottoman currently used as a museum to display the paintings andEmpire. A tyrannical ruler, he was allegedly responsible furniture of Queen Marie of Romania, but somethingfor the torture and horrifying deaths of more than 80,000 menacing lurks in the labyrinth of passages and in themen, women, and children. His favorite method of extensive grounds. The ghostly chapel is an ideal hidingexecution was to drop prisoners from the castle’s turrets, place for vampires, waiting for nightfall and the chance toimpaling them on a row of stakes below. It is said that feed on innocent visitors lost in the maze of rooms. Walkthe Turkish army fled when they encountered a forest of up the “Secret Stairs” of Bran Castle if you dare. EuroTravel | 63
EuropeDragsholm Castle Zealand, DenmarkThe ghost of a nobleman chained to a pillar for ten years haunts the courtyards of this Danish castle.Once a prison for noble traitors, Dragsholm Castle stands the petals of a flower as she waits for her lover beside theon an island in Denmark’s Zeeland archipelago. Phantoms castle walls. King Frederick of Denmark imprisoned theof a White Lady and the Earl of Bothwell are reputed to sinister Earl of Bothwell on suspicion of the murder ofstalk its staircases and courtyard in the chill northern air. Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary Queen of Scots. NotThe White Lady is thought to be the lovelorn daughter of a long after Lord Darnley’s demise, Bothwell had marrieddraconian former master of the castle. According to legend, Mary himself, with the aim, it was thought, of becomingwhen her father discovered she loved a commoner he was Scotland’s king. Unable to decide his fate, Frederick keptso angry and ashamed that he cut her throat and bricked Bothwell alive in appalling conditions. Chained to a pillarher up in the castle walls. During the 1930s, workmen with a circular groove in the floor to drain off excreta, herepairing the walls found a skeleton shrouded in a tattered went insane after ten years and died at the age of 44. Manywhite dress imprisoned inside. Many people claim to have people claim to have seen his ghostly figure riding acrossseen the White Lady weeping as she walks through the the courtyard of Dragsholm as he relives his dream ofcastle at night; by day, she is sometimes spotted counting wearing the Scottish crown.64 | EuroTravel
EuropeCachtice Castle Trencín, SlovakiaIn this ruined castle, a murderous countess butchered hundreds of virgins and bathed in their blood.These haunted ruins were once the home of the notorious extract their blood, others were killed. As the new maidsCountess Elizabeth Báthory (1560–1614), popularly reached inside a cabinet to take out their mistress’s jewelry,known as the Blood Countess. Between 1585 and 1610, knives shot out and impaled them to the cupboard. Thethe countess murdered more than 600 girls in her quest girls were said to suffer a slow and painful death, as theirfor eternal youth. The killing spree is said to have started blood dripped into a channel that was connected to awhen a maid pricked her finger while dressing the countess. bath tub in the next room. Elizabeth’s horrifying acts wereWhen the blood spurted onto Elizabeth’s cheek, she looked eventually discovered. Bodies were found in the castle cryptin the mirror and thought her skin seemed younger. and in the fields. As punishment, she was imprisoned inA horrifying urge to bathe in the blood came over the the castle walls, with only one small slit in the door forcountess, and with the help of her other servants she slit the delivery of food. Elizabeth died there four years later.the maid’s throat, hung her upside down, and drained the Some say her body was taken to the family crypt in Ecsed,blood into a vat. Believing she would stay young forever Hungary, but others say she was buried in the crypt, fromif she bathed in blood every day, Elizabeth followed a where she rises each night to search for blood. Eithermurderous pattern, luring young girls to the castle by way, the stories concerning the countess are so awful andoffering them jobs as servants. Some were tortured to powerful that the locals will not go near the castle. ■ EuroTravel | 65
Portugal66 | EuroTravel
Portugal A Beginner’s Guide toLisbon To Book Hotels in Lisbon, CLICK HERE To Research this Destination Further, CLICK HERE EuroTravel | 67
Portugal Lisbon enchants travelers with its white bleached limestone buildings, intimate alleyways, and an easy going charm that makes it a popular year round destination. Belem Tower68 | EuroTravel
PortugalLLisbon is one of the oldest cities in Getting in to town Getting around In general, if you are arriving by Lisbon has an excellent public the world, and the oldest city in plane in Lisbon and it is still day transport network that covers Western Europe, predating other time, it is almost always better to the entire city in addition to modern European capitals such use public transport - buses or the the surrounding areas. The as London, Paris and Rome by metro system - to your hotel or final refurbished metro system is clean, hundreds of years. destination. The airport information quick, and efficient. While metro desk at Lisbon airport can provide announcements are made only in It has experienced something of you with all the required information. Portuguese, signs and ticketing a renaissance in recent years, with Taxi drivers at the taxi stand at the machines are generally bilingual in a contemporary culture that is alive airport are, to be polite, infamously Portuguese and English. There is an and thriving and making its mark in problematical. If you do not speak extensive bus and tram network. today’s Europe. Perched on the edge Portuguese or if you don’t know the of the Atlantic Ocean, Lisbon is one shortest way to your destination, Think twice before using a car of the rare Western European cities avoid using a taxi unless there is no in the city unless you are prepared that face the ocean and uses water other option. If your final destination to spend hours in traffic jams and as an element that defines the city. is less than 1 mile from the airport, looking for parking space. The Lisbon enchants travelers with its taxi drivers will refuse to take you busy traffic and narrow streets with white bleached limestone buildings, even though they are not allowed to blind corners can be overwhelming intimate alleyways, and an easy refuse destinations. If you are not to tourists. Also, due to lack of going charm that makes it a popular carrying too much luggage and it is space and overcrowding, parking is year round destination. not late in the night, you are better off difficult and frustrating simply getting a bus or the metro . When to go Instead of paying for a ride on Lisbon enjoys a warm climate, one of the costly tourist trams, with mild winters and very warm summers. Strongly influenced Tram 28 by the Gulf Stream, it has one of the mildest climates in Europe. Amongst all the capitals of Europe, it has the warmest winters, The typical summer’s season lasts about 6 months, from May to October, with an average temperature of 25°C (77°F) during the day and 16.2°C (61.2°F) at night, although in November, March and April benefit from an average temperature of 18.5°C (65°F) during the day and 11.2°C (52.2°F) at night. Rain occurs mainly in winter, the summer is very dry. EuroTravel | 69
Portugaltry Tram 28. This is one of only From start to finish the ride takes 10AM-5:30PM in winter, 10AM-three traditional tram lines that around 30 minutes. 6PM in summer. Try to avoid thestill operate in Lisbon. These morning rush of tour parties (withtrams, which until the late-1980’s What to see pushy tour guides) as admissionran all through-out Lisbon, were There is so much to see in Lisbon. is slow and you could queue for amanufactured between 1936 and Here is a personal selection: while. Free entry to the church, €101947. Tram 28 winds its way for the rest of the monastery.through the “Old Town” of Lisbon Belem Tower (Torre de Belém).(dating from the 17th century) Open 10AM-5:30PM in winter, Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’sbeginning in Graça then down to 10AM-6:30PM in summer (with Castle), Mar-Oct daily 09:00-the Alfama and to the Baixa then the last entry allowed 30 minutes 21:00 & Nov-Feb daily 09:00-up through Chiado to Bairro Alto before closure). A ticket package 18:00. Located up a hill, with aand then down to Campo Ourique, for both the Belem Tower and great view over the city and thetaking you past many of Lisbon’s Jeronimos Monastery is offered for river. If you have the energy, getmost famous and interesting sites. €12. Be aware that access to the there by walking from downtown,The trip is hilly, noisy and hectic but top of the tower, and intermediate going through the fantastic oldit affords many beautiful glimpses of floors, is via a very narrow, steep neighbourhood of Alfama. Thethe city and, although the tram can spiral staircase. Entry fee for the ticket office is way before thesometimes be overrun with tourists, tower only is €5. entrance (where the line is), makeyou will definitely get a flavor of the sure you buy the ticket first, orlocals, as many “Lisboetas” commute Jerónimos Monastery, Praça do you’ll be turned back when youdaily on these historical trams. Império, 1400-206 Lisboa, Open eventually reach the entrance.Jeronimos Monastery70 | EuroTravel
PortugalCalouste Gulbenkian Museum, and a collection of ecclesiastical include the Castle of São Jorge, SantaAvenida de Berna, 45A Tu-Su treasures. Highlights include Dürer’s Luzia scenic view point, and the10:00-17:45. Created from the St Jerome, Hieronymus Bosch’s medieval Lisbon Cathedral.personal collection of Calouste Temptations of St Antony, NunoGulbenkian, an Armenian who Gonçalves’ Adoration of St Vincent, Parque das Nações, On Av. Domlonged to see all his treasures and 16th century Japanese paintings João II Built for the 1998 Worlddisplayed in a museum. A nice of Portuguese traders. Expo, on the eastern side of Lisbon.assortment of Egyptian artifacts, It includes the Oceanarium - one ofalong with paintings by masters Where else to go the world’s largest. The oceanarium issuch as Rembrandt, Manet, Monet, You can’t go to Lisbon without divided between the permanent andRenoir, and Cassat. The museum’s exploring Alfama - the city’s oldest temporary exhibition. The permanentgardens are worth a visit in and of district. You will enjoy just getting lost exhibition is centered around a hugethemselves, as a little oasis in the on its labyrinthine streets and alleys aquarium with a variety of fishes andmiddle of downtown Lisbon. with architecture ranging from late surrounded by a number of smaller medieval to 19th Century buildings. regionally-themed aquariums.Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, The area is old and slightly run down,Rua das Janelas Verdes, Tu 14:00- although renovation efforts have been Shopping18:00; W-Su 10:00-18:00. Portugal’s undertaken in the past two decades. Shops are open a little later thanimpressive national art collection, There is a wealth of small historical other places in Europe, usuallyincluding 14-19th century European and cultural landmarks and pleasant around 9:30AM-10PM, thoughpainting, artefacts of Portuguese restaurants, cafés and Fado clubs can some may be closed from 1PM tocontact with the East and Africa be found all over the place. Highlights 3PM. The main shopping streets are: Alfama EuroTravel | 71
Portugal Baixa: This is the old shopping View from Castelo de São Jorge district in the city. It includes72 | EuroTravel pedestrian Rua Augusta which has the most mass-visitor tourist stores, and several European chain clothing stores like Zara, H&M, Campers. Chiado: home to a number of independent shops and services and well known brands such as Hugo Boss, Vista Alegre, Tony & Guy, Benetton, Sisley, Pepe Jeans, Levi’s and Colcci. The area is also teeming with cafés, restaurants, bookshops and a dedicated shopping area “Armazéns do Chiado”. Avenida da Liberdade: Louis Olissippo Lapa Palace: A luxury Vuitton, Calvin Klein, Timberland, palace hotel on one of Lisbon’s seven Massimo Dutti, Armani, Burberrys hills, with gardens and pools, heated and Adolfo Dominguez are just all year long. Member of The Leading some of the shops you’ll find along Hotels of the World. With one of the this avenue, which is not just one of best spas in Lisbon, gourmet food (its the most beautiful and wide in the restaurant is considered by the Zagat city, but also one of the fanciest with Guide as one of the best in Lisbon) splurge hotels and restaurants. and one of best concierge services in the country. Where to stay You can either click on the link Pestana Palace: Located in an at the top of this article or search old Palace, This is a luxurious 5 our own booking engine here: star hotel located in a 19th century www.bit.ly/eurotravelhotels. palace classified as a “National Top suggestions are: Monument”. All the rooms are profusely decorated, with French- Hotel Avenida Palace: Located inspired details. The private in the emblematic Restauradores quarters of the Marquises have been Square, in the heart of the city, The turned into beautiful and spacious Avenida Palace Hotel has a symbol suites. It has a fabulous garden and of charm and elegance for over 100 luxury spa. ■ years. This neoclassical, imposing building and its first class refined service make it a chosen destination for international celebrities.
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IrelandIrish cottage house74 | EuroTravel
IrelandIreland Off-Season By Richard EarlsTo Book Hotels in Ireland, CLICK HERE To Research this Destination Further, CLICK HEREEEveryone wants to go to Ireland, and “peak season”, the crowds tend to be heavy and the prices high. Ireland’s it seems that everyone wants to go peak season is the summer months: in the summer. Now don’t get me mid-June through mid-September. wrong. There is much good to be When the weather is typically less said about the warm days of summer than balmy, destinations experience a on the greenest of islands. However, “shoulder season” and a “low season”. fall, winter, and spring offer their Shoulder season in Ireland is April, own special charms, as well as being May, early June and early October. amazingly affordable times to travel. Shoulder season has the distinct The scenery is still stunning, the advantage of retaining many summer people are still friendly (and maybe travel perks: longer days, good weather more so, relieved of the pressure of and extended shopping hours. Low so many tourists) and the pub life is season is November through March - especially warm and friendly. the winter-weather months in Ireland. Most destinations have a prime Rates and crowds lessen season for travel that coincides with proportionally as you travel farther excellent weather. Throughout this EuroTravel | 75
Irelandfrom the warmer months. Airfares To ensure your comfort whileare often hundreds of dollars below you wander through Ireland,peak season rates, and hotels offer bring heavy sweaters and outdoorbargain discounts. But for many, one clothing and hats. Warm,of the best advantages of traveling comfortable (and preferablyin the so-called “off season” is that waterproof) shoes are a must, andit’s much easier to enjoy and absorb pack turtlenecks and windbreakersIreland’s renowned culture and avoid for good measure. The good news isgetting lost in crowds of tourists. that because Ireland is situated onOff-season visitors often find that the eastern Atlantic side of the Gulftheir hosts, hoteliers and shop Stream, temperatures are typicallykeepers engage easily in conversation more moderate than in continentaland provide individual attention, Europe. Ireland’s average winterincreasing the odds for a fascinating temperature is a relatively mild 45and flawless vacation. degrees Fahrenheit. Off-peak Ireland is one of the A good travel agent familiarbest travel bargains worldwide... with Ireland is the best resource forshort daylight hours and cool planning your off-season itineraryweather provide a new, moody to ensure that you experience theperspective on the country. Celtic best aspects of traveling during thisarchitecture and cool seascapes time. Travel agents can connect youfill mornings of exploration, and to highly regarded tour operatorscrisp afternoons call for cozy Irish who are financially sound and have asweaters and refuge in a warm pub, reliable history of taking care of thewhere visitors mix with the locals. agent’s clients; Ireland can be equally enjoyed through a fully escorted One of the great attractions or independent tour, and often atof Ireland is that many of its additional savings over already lowamazing sites are in the wide- rates. In addition, an agent is anopen: the cliffs and shores, castles, invaluable source of insider tipscathedrals and great stone circles are and research materials that take theaccessible throughout the year. The worry and hassle out of planning ancountryside, too, holds its famous enjoyable, quiet, and affordable tripgreen, even in the winter when to Ireland.visitors can trace the landscape oflong stone walls against a leafless sky So pack a sweater and have theand emerald-colored hillsides. Emerald Isle to yourself! ■Travel writer Richard Earls likes nothing better than traveling withoutplans. His favorite destinations take him to labyrinths of narrow streetsin Europe, Africa and Asia. If you see him out there, please say “Hi”. He isalso the publisher of the travel trade publication “Travel Research Online”.76 | EuroTravel
IrelandBlarney Castle Cliffs of Moher Ancient megalithic tomb at Carrowmore County Sligo EuroTravel | 77
Ireland If you go78 | EuroTravel Travelers to West Ireland find it West Ireland. It’s easy to get an easy area to drive and cover, around the country! with so much of its beauty and • St. Patrick’s “Day” lasts a week attractiveness right outside the in Ireland and their’s no shortage windshield in the countryside. From of festivals at other times like the rugged western coastline to the Puck Festival or the Rose of green stone-walled pastures the Tralee Festival! vistas are certainly a big part of the • Fishing in western Ireland is hard journey. But you can also sleep in to beat and a favorite outdoor ancient castles or spend the night sport of many travelers. in luxury modern spa hotels. You • Self-drive vacations are easy... can visit ancient ruins and stone but remember to drive on the left cairns of unknown origin. Whatever and watchout for round-abouts your mode of travel, West Ireland and, in the rural areas, sheep! will put some magic into your visit • If either hiking or biking is a to the Emerald Isle.The West Coast favorite pastime, west Ireland region includes some part of the boasts hundreds of miles of great following counties: Sligo, Leitrim, countryside and spectacular Galway, Mayo, Donegal, Southwest coastline, including the Cliffs Offaly, Tipperary North, West Cork, of Moher, one of the most Cork City, Kerry, Clare and Limerick. photographed locations on the planet. • The West Coast of Ireland is the • The megaliths of Carrowmore, Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) region. In about 3 miles south-west of some areas all street signs are in Sligo town, are located in the “the Irish”. The Gaeltact is spoken center of the Cúil Irra peninsula over a wide area of West Ireland, and are one of the oldest and especially Kerry, Cork, Mayo, largest collections of stone age Galway and Donegal and much of monuments in Western Europe. the local music, both traditional • Churches and ancient castles and modern, is in the native Irish. dot the landscape like a great • 20% of North Americans can trace outdoor museum. Our favorites? their ancestory to Ireland. Want Roscrea Castle, as well as the to check out your geneology? Visit ruined “Abbey” of Roscommon. http://www.nli.ie/ Be sure to see Ballyhannan • Visit on the cheap - competitive Castle overlooking the River airfares, bed and breakfasts, Shannon as well and the chance trains, ferries and self drives! to spend the night at Dromoland • From North America, fly into Castle. Of course, you can’t leave either Dublin or Shannon for out the Blarney Castle.
IrelandFishing boat at the Killarney lake EuroTravel | 79
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Europe By Regina Winkle-Bryan To Book Hotels in Spain, CLICK HERE To Research this Destination Further, CLICK HERE82 | EuroTravel
EuropeMonastery of Santa Maria De Poblet and Vineyards EuroTravel | 83
Europe Maybe it’s the fact that I’m from the the Amish I met on a trip to Iowa or monasteries in operation thanks western United States. Or maybe the Quakers of Costa Rica. In fact, to his determination. it’s because of growing up in a the three groups share many throw-way generation of disposable of the same basic values of hard As the Cistercian lifestyle grew work, a simple life living off the in popularity monasteries wereMeverything and pre-fab houses, but land, and disconnecting themselves constructed in Spain. Currently, from modern society with all its there are 11 monasteries throughout here in Spain, and in Europe in vices and temptations. the Iberian Peninsula open to general, I am impressed by what is visitors, some alive and functioning ancient and still relevant. 1,000- However, the Cistercians differ with White Monks, and others year old buildings are no biggy for from the Amish in that they are abandoned acting as nothing Europeans, but in my eyes they men or women of the cloth. The more than tourist sites. Three of are wonders. How can they still be group formed in 1075 in Cistels, the choicest of these monasteries standing? And as is the case with a village south of Dijon, France, make up the Ruta del Cister, in the many of the Cistercian monasteries; and dedicated themselves to the Penendès region of Catalonia. Of how can anyone still be living in strict observance of the rules and these three, two are working, one these enormous, cold, stone relics? teachings of Saint Benedict. They run by nuns (Vallbona) and the had a slow start and some set backs other by brothers (Poblet). These There are Cistercian monasteries as any breakaway group does, and working Cistercian monasteries give all over Europe, with the majority of in the first 50 years of the Cistercian visitors a look at the past and present them concentrated in France, Spain monasteries it appeared that the lifestyle of a dwindling group - and Italy (though originally they White Monks’ way of life would unfortunately, White Monk recruit were present in the U.K., Cyprus, not survive. In 1111, just as all numbers are down. The monasteries Syria and Germany, too). Known as seemed lost Stephen Harding are so close together that they can be the “White Monks” the nuns and became a head abbot and turned visited by car over a weekend, or for brothers who follow the Cistercian things around, pushing Cistercian the more adventurous pilgrim, hiked way of life wear a white apron monasteries into a time of wide and to over a couple days. and live in solitude and austerity. rapid expansion. When Harding In today’s world of Internet, and died in 1133, there were 70 A foot trail connects the Ruta obsessive communication, the White del Cisters, joining Poblet, Santes Monks are radicals, reminding me of Statue of Santa Maria De Poblet Monastery Main Entrance of Santa Maria De Poblet Monastery84 | EuroTravel
EuropeMonastery of Santa Maria De Poblet Cloister EuroTravel | 85
Europe View of Tower of the cloister, Santes Cruise It was here that sinning monks would (mostly) voluntarily lock themselves for weeks at a time.Creus, and Vallbona in a triangular As the monasteries grew in the 13th facilities for Cistercian “pilgrims” inholy trinity of monasteries. The century, the White Monks produced towns surrounding the monasteries.path crosses wine country and wine and other foods and sold these Another option is staying in a ruralfarmland, most of which would have goods for a profit. This is certainly house, like a B & B in an ancientbelonged to these giant monasteries not the case anymore. Besides the masia. Walking the Cistercian trailin the past. The Cistercian code pottery that one brother makes at the is the best way to develop an ideademanded hard manual labor from Poblet monastery, the White Monks of what life would have been like inits monks and nuns, and because of aren’t producing anything these days. the 12th century, tracing the Whitetheir remote locations, most had to Monks’ footprints.depend on their crops to survive. It Hikers on the La Ruta delis no mistake that most Cistercian Cister will find it well marked but Whether going by car or onmonasteries are found near rock should not expect to camp. The foot, it’s a good idea to keep thequarries and rivers; these were trail mostly cuts through private monasteries’ opening and touringtwo key ingredients to Cistercian farms, villages and vineyards, so hours in mind as they are sporadic.expansion and agricultural success. pitching a tent would be frowned It’s possible to start off at any of upon. However, there are hotels and the monasteries, but when I did86 | EuroTravel
the route I began with Santes Creus. EuropeThis is the only monastery on LaRuta del Cister which does not have View of Tower of thea religious community living in it, Hours, Santes Creuswhich means visitors can exploreevery part of the church Santes Creusand building. I took a tour here with entrance doora small group and Eva Rodon wasour tell-all guide, who informed us EuroTravel | 87that the abbey was constructed in1150 and that the White Monkswere made to leave for good in 1835. Call me twisted, but a highlightfor me was seeing the Santes Creus“punishment” cell, which is accessedthrough a miniature wooden doorbehind many thick stone walls. Itwas here that sinning monks would(mostly) voluntarily lock themselvesfor weeks at a time. Today’s cell isactually what used to be two tinycells, and it is too easy to imagineWhite Monks locked away there inthe almost darkness and cold damp.One of the most haunting aspectsof the cell was the graffiti left onthe wall from some bored/inspiredmonk. It’s hard to make it out atfirst, but then it’s quite clear thatthere is a pencil drawing of Jesus andquite a bit of writing on the upperpart of the wall. Now that’s what Icall history! After Santes Creus and lunch, Imade my way over to Poblet wherevisiting groups get swift tours atcontrolled hours. Poblet was alsofounded in 1150 and its monkswere also made to leave in 1835.However, unlike Santes Creus,Poblet’s monks returned and set upshop again in 1940. It was at thePoblet monastery that got my first
Europe glimpse of a real White Monk. The From Poblet it’s on to Vallbona abbey has 32 monks living under its (1176) where nuns have run the show88 | EuroTravel enormous roof and is surrounded for 800 years. Except in times of by grapevines. In the 14th century war, the Vallbona convent has always Poblet was producing and selling been in operation. In the Middle wine, and a large portion of the Ages, it was common for Catalan monastery is actually an old cellar nobility to put their daughters which can be toured. Back then, the in Vallbona, as it was considered White Monks grew, produced and prestigious. Vallbona is smaller than yes, even drank the wine they made. the other two Cistercian monasteries Nowadays the vines belong to the on the route and happens to have an large wine producer Torres, which olive cooperative right next to it, a has set up a small shop outside nice spot to pick up a couple bottles the monastery. of Extra Virgin. Though in need of some repairs, Vallbona is beautiful When I noticed our guide, and it’s no shocker to find out that Rosa Albes, whispering to a White it was deemed a historical-artist Monk, I asked her if they still kept monument in 1931. a vow of silence. “The rules have changed to fit the times,” she said, Whether hiked or driven, the “They can talk to each other; it’s no Ruta del Cister is a great pick for problem.” This information gave me a weekend getaway. While I’d like an unexpected feeling of incredible to recommend the healthy choice relief. I was also happy to see Poblet’s and say hike it, I also think having extensive library. Of course, monks a car in this area comes in handy, have always had a strong connection especially during the colder months to the written word, and it seems of the year. By car you will be able that at Poblet this tradition is to tour not only the monasteries but continuing. The monastery’s library the many vineyards around Penendès is stocked to the brim with 8,000 which are braided into La Ruta del books and journals plus Internet and Cister. My humble recommendation: central heating. Rosa encouraged do a two-for-one and alternate me to stick around until 6pm for your visits between admiring the the monk’s nightly Gregorian chant architecture of the Cistercian abbeys, practice which I am sure would have and savoring the robust fruits of been magnificent. Torres Vineyards by the glass. ■ Regina WB is a Barcelona-based writer specializing in Spanish speaking countries. Curiosity has long been her guide, leading her on many serendipitous adventures. A Portland, Oregon native Regina WB has journeyed through the United States, Mexico, Central America and Europe with no foreseeable plans to cease traveling any time soon. She has lived in Costa Rica, Guatemala and Spain.
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