Vogue on Yves Saint Laurent ( PDFDrive )

Mondrian dress Dryansky, Gerry Duc Duffy, Brian Duras, Marguerite Eales, Norman Elbaz, Alber Emaer, Fabrice Evangelista, Linda Fairchild, John Fellowes, Daisy Le Figaro Firmin-Didot, Laetitia fragrance: Opium YSL aftershave

Gardner, Ava Givenchy, Hubert de Grange, Jacques Gréco, Juliette Hall, Jerry Hayworth, Rita Helvin, Marie Howard, Karen Huston, Anjelica International Wool Secretariat Irwin, Elaine Issaeva, Ludmila Jagger, Bianca Jagger, Mick James, Marcie James, Maudie Jeanmaire, Zizi Jones, Allen Jones, Grace

Katoucha Kempner, Nan Kennedy, Jackie Kirk, Neil Klein, William Klossowski, Thadée Knapp, Peter

knitwear Knott, Kim Knudsen, Vibeke la Falaise, Alain de la Falaise, Loulou de joins Yves Saint Laurent marriage Rive Gauche London boutique Saint Laurent’s depression Lagerfeld, Karl Lamargé, Nicole de Lamb, Andrew L’Amour Fou Lamy, François Lategan, Barry Lichfield, Patrick Lindfors, Marie Lopez, Antonio Lopez-Willshaw, Patricia Luling, Suzanne Luna, Donyale McCabe, Eamonn J McEvoy, Marian

Marrakech Marshall, Esmé Martinelli, Elsa Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, Brigitte Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, Charles Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, Lucienne Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, Michèle Matson, Audrey

menswear Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Yves Saint Laurent retrospective (1983) Michals, Duane Michaelsen, Yorn models favourite models Mondrian collection (1965) Moss, Kate Mulder, Karen Muñoz, Anne-Marie Murray, Susan Newton, Helmut Nicks, Dewey Nureyev, Rudolf Nygren, Carrie Opéra Les Ballets Russes (1976) Opium couture collection (1977) Opium fragrance Paris Paris Match pant suits Parkinson, Norman Penn, Irving Petit, Roland Picasso, Paloma Pinter, Harold Prentiss, Paula Proust, Marcel Pucci, Emilio Quirk, Kathy Radziwill, Lee Rampling, Charlotte Raymonde, Madame Rendlesham, Clare Ribes, Jacqueline de Rive Gauche,

accessories

asymmetrical style bohemian allure

boutiques Carmen collection (1977) colors

launch of popularity in America signature style, suits Vogue’s enthusiasm for Rive Gauche Pour Homme Rizzo, Willy Roberts, Michael Robinson, Jack Robinson, Jesse Mack Rochas, Hélène Rose, Barbara Ross, Diana Rothschild, Marie-Hélène de Rouët, Jacques Rubenstein, Helena Russell, Mary

safari jacket Sagan, Françoise Saint, Carmen Saint, Clara Saint Laurent, Yves: and Bianca Jagger business partnership with Bergé confidence in his style death

at Dior

early life

International Wool Secretariat Marrakech and Michel de Brunhoff nervous collapse partying

photographs of relationship with Bergé retirement

sets up house of YSL

way with women Sanchez, Fernando Sarkozy, Nicholas Schiano, Marina Schiaparelli, Elsa Schmid, Lothar Sheppard, Eugenia Shrimpton, Jean Sieff, Jeanloup Simonin, Charlotte skirts Le Smoking Helmut Newton portrait Rive Gauche Smoking

Snowdon Soto, Talisa

Squibb Stember, John

Swan, Moyra Takada, Kenzo Talley, André Leon Teller, Juergen Thérond, Roger Tibblin, Mira Toscani, Oliviero Töyrylä, Arja Train, Susan Trapèze collection (1958) Turlington, Christie Veruschka

Victoire Viollet, Rogert Vivier, Roger Vreeland, Diana Saint Laurent retrospective (1983) W magazine Warhol, Andy Weber, Bruce White, Lesley

Wilhelmina Women’s Wear Daily Young, Kirat Yves Saint Laurent (fashion house) autumn/winter Broadway (1978) Carmen (1977) la Collection du Scandale (1971) Mondrian (1965) Opéra Les Ballets Russes (1976) Opium collection (1977) spring/summer see also fragrance; Rive Gauche Zehnacker, Raymonde Zumsteg, Gustav

References Benaïm, Laurence Yves Saint Laurent, Editions Grasset et Fasquelle, 1993 Benaïm, Laurence Debut, Yves Saint Laurent 1962, Harry N Abrams, 2002 Bergé, Pierre Yves Saint Laurent, Thames & Hudson, 1997 Bergé, Pierre 10 Ans, Fondation Pierre Bergé, Yves Saint Laurent, Editions du Regard, 2014 Drake, Alicia The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris, Bloomsbury, 2006 Dupire, Beatrice and Sy, Hady (eds) Yves Saint Laurent: Forty Years of Creation 1958–1998, International Festival of Fashion Photography, 1998 Fraser-Cavassoni, Natasha Monsieur Dior: Once Upon A Time, Pointed Leaf Press, 2014 Müller, Florence and Bowles, Hamish Yves Saint Laurent, Style, Style, Style, Abrams, 2008 De Ravenel, Ariel and Fraser-Cavassoni, Natasha Loulou de la Falaise, Rizzoli, 2014 Rawsthorn, Alice Yves Saint Laurent: A Biography, HarperCollins, 1996 Sinclair Charlotte Vogue on Christian Dior, Quadrille, 2012 Vreeland, Diana DV, George Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 1984 Vreeland, Diana (ed) Yves Saint Laurent, The Metropolitan Museum of Art and Clarkson Potter, 1983

Picture credits All photographs © The Condé Nast Publications Ltd except the following: This Page © The Helmut Newton Estate/Maconochie Photography; this page Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images; this page Courtesy of Christian Dior; this page Topfoto. co.uk; this page Jean-Philip Charbonnier via Getty; this page Pierre Boulat/Cosmos/eyevine; this page Irving Penn/Vogue © Condé Nast Inc 1962; this page © Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris; this page Irving Penn/Vogue © Condé Nast Inc 1965; this page Keystone- France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images; this page Jack Robinson/Vogue © Condé Nast Inc 1968; this page © Bruno Barbey/Magnum Photos; this page © The Jeanloup Sieff Estate/Maconochie Photography; this page, this page © Norman Parkinson/Courtesy Norman Parkinson Archive; this page Duane Michals/Vogue © Condé Nast Inc 1976; this page © The Helmut Newton Estate/Maconochie Photography, courtesy Fondation Pierre Bergé—Yves Saint Laurent, Paris; this page © Juergen Teller.

Acknowledgments First and foremost, I have to thank Alexandra Shulman and Harriet Wilson at Vogue as well as Jane O’Shea at Quadrille for making it possible for me to write about Yves Saint Laurent. It’s impossible to celebrate Saint Laurent’s illustrious career without mentioning Pierre Bergé, his business partner and keeper of the flame. Mille mercis to Monsieur Bergé and his team at the Fondation Pierre Bergé—Yves Saint Laurent: Philippe Mugnier, Laetitia Roux, Pascal Sittler, Pauline Vidal, and Olivier Flaviano who proved to be both enthusiastic and accommodating. Once again, I relied upon Perrine Scherrer from Dior’s archives, an excellent source for Saint Laurent’s debut years. I also acknowledge Dior’s Jérôme Gautier—my favorite fashion photographic encyclopedia—who proved invaluable for recognizing and naming Vogue models. Vogue article and image research was greatly eased by Condé Nast’s Brett Croft and Ben Evans. I was in touch with Ben daily and he became a guardian angel for his enthusiasm, knowledge, and politeness. At Quadrille, I worked with Nicola Ellis and Gemma Hayden and felt extremely grateful for their patience and savoir-faire. Writing means rewriting and I was fortunate to have the editing skills of Sarah Mitchell who always encouraged. The latter also applies to my agents Ed Victor and Maggie Phillips. When delving into Saint Laurent, it was difficult not to quote from The Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake. She is a dear friend and her book remains an inspired reference to Saint Laurent’s life and career. I also called upon the help of Madison Cox, a stalwart ally, on two separate occasions. Finally, it was thanks to my mother Antonia Fraser that I discovered Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche and indeed Vogue. Both elements fueled my childhood and brought me a life in Paris.

Publishing Consultant Jane O’Shea Creative Director Helen Lewis Series Editor Sarah Mitchell Series Designer Nicola Ellis Designer Gemma Hayden Production Director Vincent Smith Production Controller Emily Noto For Vogue: Commissioning Editor Harriet Wilson Picture Researcher Ben Evans First published in 2015 by Quadrille Publishing Limited Pentagon House 52–54 Southwark Street London SE1 1UN www.quadrille.co.uk Quadrille is an imprint of Hardie Grant www.hardiegrant.com.au Text copyright © 2015 Condé Nast Publications Limited. Vogue Regd TM is owned by the Condé Nast Publications Ltd and is used under licence from it. All rights reserved. Design and Layout © 2013 Quadrille Publishing Limited. Library of Congress Control Number: 2014959345 ISBN: 978-1-4197-1801-4 Published in 2015 by Abrams Image, an imprint of ABRAMS. All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher. Abrams Image books are available at special discounts when purchased in quantity for premiums and promotions as well as fundraising or educational use. Special editions can also be created to specification. For details, contact specialsales@ abramsbooks.com or the address below.

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