The Best of Myanmar: Golden Land of Hidden Gems

THE BEST OF MYANMAR Golden Land of Hidden Gems The Best ofISBN 9786169272410 MYANMAR9 786169 272410 Golden Land of Hidden Gems

The Best ofMYANMAR Golden Land of Hidden Gems

10 PAST and PRESENT 11 PAST and PRESENT

12 PAST and PRESENT 13 Nestled in between China, South Asia and Southeast Asia, Myanmar is almost unique – its geographic diversity and A myriad of rivers and tributaries intersect the country, the key ones are the Salween, which flows from southwest China, in TOP multi-ethnic population make the country a colorful kaleidoscope and represent one of the most fascinating lands the Tibetan plateau, and the Chindwin, which flows into the Ayeyarwaddy from the west in central Myanmar. Most of these in the region. It is the largest country in mainland Southeast Asia – but remains one of the poorest countries in rivers are largely navigable. These rivers are the country’s arteries – and the mountain ranges, East Yoma, Bago Yoma and Cruise on the region. It is larger than any European country and about the same size as Texas in the United States: 678,000 square West Yoma, stand like sentries guarding the country from unwanted intruders. The Ayeyarwaddy kilometers. River with view of The country is also inundated with lakes – Yangon boasts two important, picturesque spots: Kandawgyi and Inya Lakes. But Sagaing It stretches 2,052 kilometers from the northernmost mountainous region near the Tibetan border to the mangrove forests on the most renowned is Inle Lake in central Myanmar’s Shan State, a freshwater lake some 884 meters above sea level. It is 22 the Bay of Bengal, bordering Thailand. It stretches 936 km from the Bangladesh border in the West to the eastern extreme on km long, 9 km across its widest point and some 116 square kilometers. Although not large, the lake contains over 20 species OPPOSITE the Mekong River, on the Thai border. It is a mixture of mountains – the highest, Hkakabo in Kachin State in the north on of snails and nine species of fish that are unique to the lake. It hosts approximately 20,000 brown and black head migratory the Chinese border, 5,581 meters – jungle terrain and lowlands. It has long porous borders: 244 km with Bangladesh, 1,379 seagulls in November through to January. The local community on the lake’s shores – the Inthas – live from the lake’s Hkakabo, the km with India, 2,185 km with China, 201 km with Laos and 2,114 km with Thailand. resources; they travel on the lake using barge-like boats which they paddle with their legs. highest mountain in Myanmar, in Kachin Rivers and streams flow throughout the country. The longest river is the Irrawaddy (or Ayeyarwaddy), which is the country’s Myanmar’s long and varied history has left an indelible and lasting impact on the country’s psyche, outlook and culture. From state most renowned geographical feature, flowing from north to south. British poet and writer Rudyard Kipling nicknamed it “the the pre-colonial monarchies or dynasties, through the colonial period of foreign rule, the military dictatorships of General Ne road to Mandalay”. Around this river is the country’s main rice growing areas. Once Asia’s largest producer of rice, known Win and Than Shwe, to the fragile experiment with democratic government – in the 1950s and again after 2010. as the “Rice bowl of Asia” in the years after World War II, it remains one of the region’s largest rice exporters, after Thailand and Vietnam, though no longer enjoying its exulted position as the largest rice producer. The country’s history dates back some 2,500 years, when Mon settlers migrated southwards from Central Asia, and according to legend, the foundation stone of the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, which remains one of the country’s key symbols. The Mon are believed to have brought Buddhism to Myanmar in the 5th Century B.C.

18 PEOPLE and CULTURE 19 PEOPLE and CULTURE

20 PEOPLE and CULTURE 21 Myanmar is at the confluence of South Asia, China and Southeast Asia, and this strategic, geographic location is the main determinant of the country’s current make-up. The culture and peoples of those three regions have all heavily influenced the emergence of what is modern Myanmar – it is a diverse country culturally, geographically, ethnically, linguistically and religiously. But its colonial past, under British rule has also been a factor in molding the national psyche and outlook. The majority of people in Myanmar live in the countryside. More than 70 per cent of the population earns their living from agricultural pursuits – though there are thousands of provincial towns scattered throughout the country. There are several major urban centers, with the largest the former capital, Yangon with a population of 5 million, according to the 2014 census. In the past few years, both under military rule and the quasi-civilian regime of Thein Sein, the city has grown enormously, with new high-rise apartments and office buildings dominating the skyline. Major shopping centers are springing up all over the city that did not exist five years ago. But traditional Buddhist pagodas remain, dispersed throughout the city, along side the sprawling new metropolis. While Yangon is by far the largest city in Myanmar, there are a handful of major towns. Mandalay is the second largest with some one and a half million inhabitants. Then follows Nay Pyi Taw, the new created capital in 2005, with nearly half a million people. Nay Pyi Taw, established by the former military leader Senior General Than Shwe, is the country’s political capital and administrative center. Parliament resides there along with ministries, national public service and the military’s headquarters. Otherwise, there is a dozen other provincial centers with around a quarter of a million inhabitants each: including Bago, Mawlamyine, Myitkyina and Taunggyi. THIS PAGE, FROM FAR LEFT The Karen; The Akha OPPOSITE The Chin PREVIOUS SPREAD Novice monks

26 FESTIVALS and EVENTS 27 FESTIVALS and EVENTS

28 FESTIVALS and EVENTS 29 The Golden Land of Myanmar is a nation of festivals, both big and small. Without exception, every month has a T H I N G YA N nationwide festive occasion, and every location has a significant annual event. Many of the festivals have religious origins, reflecting Myanmar’s animist traditions and rich Buddhist heritage. But even the At the side of the stage, an elaborately-attired orchestra provides a percussion- Before the monsoon’s first raindrops as Myanmar swelters at the solemn, reverent observances, that bring many together in Buddhist temples for moments of quiet respect, are accompanied driven soundtrack and adds strange sound effects to the chaotic action. The hottest, driest time of year, the whole country shuts down for the by exuberant performances and a carnival atmosphere late into the night. all-night program might include re-enactments of the Buddha’s life, royal court massive water-splashing Burmese New Year known as Thingyan. Myanmar’s festivals are lively cultural expressions, giving visitors an insight into how Burmese live, pray and play. In keeping song-and-dance shows, Hindu epics or countryside soap-operas. Universal During this period, copious amounts of water are thrown around to with the country’s idiosyncratic nature, most of the events are not on fixed dates in the Western calendar, instead being held themes of the battle between good and evil, and the search for a lost love, are wash away the old and usher in the new. according to the Buddhist lunar calendar, often as the full moon waxes. It is not uncommon to stumble upon a temple fair, also portrayed in marionette shows, comedy sets and plays. live stage show, agricultural animal trading day, novice procession, or a field concert of the iconic Burmese stalwarts of rock, Usually falling around 13-16 April at dates determined by astrological ‘Iron Cross’. The two largest annual events are the Burmese New Year – the joyous water- advisors, the national water-fight shares similarities with water- The most ubiquitous events are the temple festivals, ‘paya pwe’ which mix the sacred and the secular, with merit-making splashing named Thingyan – and the picturesque festival of lights to mark the splashing festivals in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. However in offerings and Theravada Buddhist piety inside. Outside the pagoda there are likely to be singers, entertainers, magicians, end of Buddhist Lent and the rainy season – known as Thadingyut. Myanmar, there’s a uniquely Burmese twist on the change-over event. comedians, story-tellers, musicians, puppeteers, fortune tellers, vendors, night markets and fairground attractions. In addition to the festivals marking the cycles of the Theravada Buddhist This is a time when the king of the nat spirits Thagyamin descends LEFT calendar, there are national public holidays scattered throughout the year, with to earth on a golden-winged horse, clutching a water pot and a book dates fixed on the Western calendar. Myanmar’s ethnic and religious diversity listing the names of the well-behaved and naughty children. Thingyan Festival means there are also many other regional and local festivals, from Chinese (Burmese New Year) New Year and Islam’s month of fasting, Ramadan, to the Hindu festival of Youngsters pay their respects to elders, Buddha images are washed, celebrations held in April lights and the Christian Christmas. and offerings are made in pagodas and monasteries. To welcome in the new year the front entrances of houses are decorated with flowers and RIGHT As well as national public holidays celebrated across the country, there are palm leaves. unique and unusual festivals in Mandalay, Inle Lake, Kyaiktiyo (Golden Thingyan Festival Rock), Taunggyi, Kyaukse and Myitkyina. There are more than just ancient Amid the merit-making and water soaking, many locals return to their celebrations at U Bein festivals in 21st century Myanmar. October sees the prestigious Miss Universe home villages around this time, and most businesses close for around Bridge, Mandalay Myanmar beauty competition. November holds the Irrawaddy Literary a week or so, making travel difficult and a little hazardous due to the festival in Yangon or Mandalay mixing accomplished Burmese and overseas volume of people on the move. PREVIOUS authors. In March at Maha Bandoola Park there is the Yangon Photo Festival exhibition. Young folk armed with surprisingly accurate water pistols and Phaung Daw U Boat powerful water squirt-guns cruise the streets on daytime missions to Procession ensure everyone is soaked to wash away the previous year’s sins and bad luck. Roadside water-dousing stations, blaring loud music, use large buckets, hoses and even fire hydrants to cool off passing vehicles and defenceless pedestrians – only monks and the elderly are safe. In most neighbourhoods, specially-built, decorated pavilions or bamboo stages host teams of flower-garlanded young women in identical outfits who perform choreographed traditional and modern song and dance routines. The assembled crowd, particularly the high-spirited young men, don’t hold back when showering the stage maidens with life-giving water. The water-throwing ends on the first day of the new year, with special feasts held for monks, and the release of captive fish and birds.

36 ATTRACTIONS and HIGHLIGHTS 37 ATTRACTIONS and HIGHLIGHTS

38 ATTRACTIONS and HIGHLIGHTS 39YA N G O NYangon is the gateway city for Myanmar for most visitors. It is an exotic, Strand Hotel, visitors can relive the old colonial days with a classic high tea SULE PAGODAchaotic Asian city that is beyond dreams and expectations, yet it remains of cakes and pastries. The Circle Line train is another yesteryear experience,a ‘city trapped in time’. Other capitals around the world have churches, bumping and jolting its way around Yangon, offering a real insight into the Located in the very center of Yangon, the towering golden Sule Pagodastatues, monuments or squares at their very center. Yangon has a pagoda lives of ordinary Yangon residents, who use the slow service as a moving is a landmark that is both spiritual and material. Said to be 2,500which is both a religious structure and a traffic circle – the Sule Pagoda. market. The sprawling Bogyoke Aung San Market bazaar sells about years old and housing a sacred Buddha hair, the shining stupa sits everything you could wish from fabrics to carvings, tapestries, lacquerware at the heart of Yangon’s busiest traffic circle. Thousands of cars andInitially named Dagon, meaning ‘the end of strife’, at the start of the 20th and parasols. buses swirl anti-clockwise around the monument. The focal point hascentury it was considered one of the most modern cities in the world, a a magnetic-like attraction, pulling in pilgrims, protesters, beggars andtrading port growing rich from its exports of teak, rice and oil, with a One of the most significant Buddhist structures and wonders of Myanmar, sightseers. Fortune-tellers line the perimeter of the complex.skyline dominated by towers, spires and domes. By the start of the 20th rising above everything, is the stunning Shwedagon pagoda. The gildedcentury its infrastructure and public services were said to be like those of stupa radiates over Yangon making it a special sight, particularly at dusk The eye-catching gold-plated stupa is incongruous with Yangon’sLondon, with many fine colonial buildings, hospitals, parks and universities. when it exudes a wonderful magic. There are treasures from the past on skyline, yet the planned city was laid out with the Buddhist structure at display at the National Museum, while at nighttime in Chinatown the its core soon after the British occupation in the mid-19th century.A highlight of the cosmopolitan city is the legacy of colonial heritage displays are the city’s best fresh food.buildings from the British era, in the vibrant downtown. At the landmark HERITAGE BUILDINGS LEFT Yangon is the only city in Asia that still has hundreds of elegant and BOGYOKE AUNG SAN MARKET imposing buildings left from the colonial era. Myanmar’s backwardness Sule Pagoda and under-development has saved some grand buildings. With its distinctive cream facade, the colonial-era heritage listed building dating back to 1926 is one of the largest markets in Myanmar. Originally OPPOSITE, FROM TOP Contained within the checkerboard of streets from the waterfront called Scott Market, in 1948 it was renamed after Bogyoke (General) Aung to the railway station are dozens of colonial buildings ranging from San. A repurposed Victorian and Queen Anne style through to Neoclassical and Art colonial structure Deco, as well as buildings that blend European and Burmese design. Catering to locals, but popular with visitors, the enormous maze-like complex built in 1910; Many red brick or pastel-painted stucco buildings were designed at the has nearly 1,900 shops, including dedicated sections to the iconic longyi, jade High Court, peak of the British Empire’s power, resulting in grand administrative and jewelry. Open daily, except Mondays and holidays, there’s an informal built in 1905 buildings such as the Secretariat and the High Court. gem-trading area conducted around an outdoor-teahouse, while towards the back are jewelry stalls and gem testing laboratories. The undercover bazaar Yangon’s diversity is reflected in the concentration of religious features handicrafts from throughout Myanmar, real antiques as well as structures that include Roman Catholic, Protestant and Armenian decent replicas, art galleries and vendors selling old coins, banknotes and churches, Shiite and Sunni mosques, a Jain temple, Hindu shrine and stamps from Burma’s last 75 turbulent years. Jewish synagogue. The history of Yangon can be traced through its colonial-era architecture, from the monumental former Reserve Bank of India, to the now derelict Pegu Club, which was once the favored watering hole for officers of the British colonial government. One of the quirkiest colonial edifices is the former Sofaer Building built by a Jewish immigrant from Baghdad, with an opulent Italianate façade, and featuring the first electronic elevator in the city. Today, the building is home to the Lokanat Art Gallery on the first floor.

60 FLORA and FAUNA 61 FLORA and FAUNA

62 FLORA and FAUNA 63 TEAK Found in pristine untouched lowland forests growing on the higher branches of tall trees, it is regarded as a royal celestial flower. In the days of Burmese The most sought-after of the tropical hardwoods Tectona grandis is said to kings, the best blooms of thazin found by jungle hunters were presented be nature’s gift to mariners. It is also Myanmar’s gift to the world, with the to the ruling king. Harvested in the wild, the sought-after flower is now country holding 80% of the world’s remaining natural teak. The industry is cultivated indoors. With many words extolling its beauty, the rare dainty estimated to be worth US$1.2 billion a year, though much of the timber is orchid with a heady fragrance is worn in the hair of Burmese women, smuggled across to China and Thailand, and then on-sold to Scandinavian making it the favorite of brides. furniture manufacturers. BLACK ORCHID The large, deciduous tree has small, fragrant white flowers and papery leaves that are often hairy on the lower surface. The tree can survive in a Very rare and very local, found only in the wild in northern Kachin state wide range of environments, from arid, dry areas to high rainfall slopes, and near Myanmar’s highest peak Hkakabo Razi, the black orchid is special. can grow up to 40 meters high. It can take anything from 40 to 80 years Known as ‘Khun Mya Hlaing’ in Burmese, or by its Latin name in honour before teak is harvestable size. The durable timber is yellowish brown with of its Western finder, Paphiopedilum Wardii sometimes hides behind rocks, good grains and texture, and is used to make outdoor furniture, boat decks, but is a showy, fragrant, attractive plant with light green leaves mottled interiors and flooring. dark green, with red-purple spotting on the underside of the leaf. Named by British botanist Frank Kingdon-Ward in 1920, over the last century it has Burmese teak logging began during the British colonial period, and today been declared extinct several times. However recent ‘re-discoveries’ suggest Myanmar is the only nation, which still harvests teak trees from natural there are less than a thousand plants left in the wild, though deforestation forest – often using elephants for the task. and illegal trade threaten its survival. As the largest country in mainland Southeast Asia, stretching almost 2,000 kilometers from beyond the Tropic of TOP PADAUK Cancer to just above the equator, is it any wonder that Myanmar has such an array of environments, from high snow-capped mountains, thick-forested hills and lush jungles to fertile alluvial deltas, mangrove forests and arid Black orchid The tiny yellow-gold flower of the Burmese rosewood, called ‘Padauk’, is plains. regarded a national flower of Myanmar. The tropical forest tree, which OPPOSITE can grow up to 30 meters high, has heavy, termite-resistant, durable wood making it a top choice for furniture and buildings. Padauk Blossoming after the first showers in April, the entire tree turns gold This variety of habitats gives rise to a proliferation of plants and animals, with nearly 700 mammals and reptiles, more than overnight coinciding with the water-splashing Thingyan, the Burmese New a thousand different kinds of birds, and around 25,000 flowering species. While some of the flora and fauna are also found in Year. It is regarded as a symbol of strength and durability, as well as youth, neighboring Bangladesh, India, China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand, a number of animals and some thousand plants only exist love and romance. The fragrant flowers are always part of ceremonies, and in The Golden Land. are worn as adornments. When its grey bark is cut, a red gum bleeds from the tree. Teak is the most important tree in Myanmar, its wood much sought-after around the world, while demand for thanaka, the main ingredient in the distinctive cosmetic, is mainly domestic. As well as some familiar flowering plants such as roses, asters, THAZIN ORCHID lilies and magnolia, Myanmar has some rather special species such as the lipstick plant, the rare black orchid, the showy Pride of Burma, and the appropriately named ‘The Weeping Goldsmith’. Another national flower is a delicate regal orchid, which blooms graceful sprays of tiny yellowish-white flowers symbolizing purity. The thazin orchid – Bulbophyllum auricomum – opens its fragrant flowers in early winter revealing a long stem of small nodding flowers. The miniature blooms hang down like little pearly strings. The heartland of Myanmar’s flower industry is the highland town of Pyin oo Lwin near Mandalay, where chrysanthemums, gladioli and vibrant asters are grown around the town, and the nation’s floral bounty is on display at the splendid Kandawgyi National Gardens.

70 ART and ARTISTS 71 ART and ARTISTS

72 ART and ARTISTS 73Myanmar in all its glorious diversity offers several ancient and By 1988, what we now call contemporary art truly emerged amongst the art. Many well-known masters of Myanmar art came from Mandalay. It is U LUN GYWE modern windows into how art history developed over hundreds artists residing in Yangon, Mandalay and surrounding areas. It was also still a place of important history, upheld in the hearts of Burmese people. of years. From animist belief systems and Buddhism, to political the year when the infamous 8/8/88 protests engulfed Rangoon University, But it no longer serves as a center of contemporary art. This does not mean A man who is considered by many to be Myanmar’s most prolific painter,organizations and ethnic geographies, art history was shaped by the people followed by a violent backlash from the military government. Aung San that it will not rise again in the future as a relevant center of discourse for U Lun Gywe depicts in his paintings an ephemeral quality for the viewer.and places where culture was also a form of communication. Some of the Suu Kyi emerged as her people’s new leader. It was this pivotal year when many artists and researchers. With light-hearted brushstrokes and impressionist style, he manages toearliest references to painting are seen in the pagodas of Bagan and Mrauk Myanmar’s young people discovered a crusade worth fighting for. With capture light and movement in his subject matter, whether it is a womanU. What were once detailed and colorful frescoes are now only remnants previous generations as their teachers and inspiration, young artists and Many of the greatest inspirations of art mastery of this period are no longer smoking or dancing, a thundering landscape scene, or a smooth lakesideor outlines, but these murals are indications of the importance placed on intellectuals emerged from this period defiant of their military rulers and alive, and in some cases passed away around 1988, but we would like to view. For many years, he was a teacher at the State School of Fine Art incommunicating religious stories and teachings through art. determined to escape from censorship and poverty through expression. acknowledge them here as leaders in abstraction as well as establishing Yangon, and in the 1990s devoted himself entirely to painting, producing Here, we discuss those pioneers in the contemporary art scene, their styles a national identity in their art concepts. They are Bagyi Aung Soe, Khin over 50 works of art every month. He is also one of very few painters everFrom the 11th to 19th centuries, what we now know as Myanmar was and influences, as well as their predecessors, carrying Myanmar art into the Maung (Bank) Aung Khin, Paw Oo Thet, Khin One, and Khin Maung Yin. to go to international auction.broken down and reunified by a series of dynastic rulers, and at times future. All of the artists detailed below were either taught or were admirers of theseincluded parts of what is now India and Thailand. Art flourished in these artists, and they helped to foster the revolution in contemporary Myanmarperiods, as royal court painters, temple builders, craftsmen and weavers Yangon and Mandalay are the cultural capitals of Myanmar. Not only art today.benefited from the constant exchange and discovery of materials and are they centers of trade and commerce, but they are also where previousmethods. Famous artist Saya Chone was one of the few artists who made governments and kings established their bases. Yangon, in lower Myanmar, TOP PREVIOUSthe transition from court painter, during the reign of the country’s last king, is a cosmopolitan city surrounded by a river delta region. The Shwedagonto portrait painter and commercial artist under British rule. Pagoda and colonial-era architecture are the most famous sites, and dozens Paying Homage to Buddha, 2009 Traditional Dancers, 2005 of galleries and art spaces dot the city. Most galleries are commercial and U Lun Gywe U Lun GyweAfter the Anglo-Burmese Wars (1824-1885), Myanmar became a province rent their spaces to artists for exhibitions. These include Lokanat Galleryof British India and the last Burmese monarch was exiled. Politically fraught (the country’s oldest art gallery founded in 1972), River Gallery, Pansodan LEFTthough this period was, what emerged from the art scene was a new and Gallery, Nawaday Tharlar Gallery, The Yangon Gallery and several others inaccomplished group of painters, who were schooled in Western style art Yangon’s famous Bogyoke Market. Other galleries double as artist studios Beauty, 2007using oil paints and muted colors. British academics and officers formed – such as Tiger Gallery, Inya Art Gallery, Beikthano Gallery and Studio U Lun Gywethe Burma Art Club and several Burmese painters joined and trained as Square. Still others serve the community by providing educational resourcespart of the organization, depicting religious events and everyday life in and exhibition space, like New Zero Art Space and Myanm/art.Myanmar in a new and exciting way. However, in the minds and hearts ofthe Burmese painters, it was important to gain new knowledge and skill, Yangon’s scene is established and supported by its artists, not by thewhile maintaining a particularly Burmese style, keeping traditional motifs government. There is one museum in Yangon – the National Museum –and subject matters alive through their work. where a selection of paintings is on display, among thousands of artifacts, costumes, and other memorabilia. But this is not considered an art museumAfter independence in 1947, Myanmar went through its first democratic and the government has yet to fund any contemporary art projects.transition. It was a thrilling time for artists and thinkers alike, and many However, there are non-government organizations that help to supportemerged from this time as young and enthusiastic modern artists. However, the creative community in Myanmar. The Goethe Institute, the Frenchin 1962, a military coup organized by General Ne Win re-established a Institute, and the Japan Foundation are the most notable patrons, providingculture of fear and protest, much like the British colonization had done funding, public space, networks, and training to creative courses, projectdecades earlier. Artists were no longer permitted to speak or express opportunities, and a chance to express freely and without oversight fromthemselves freely. Supplies and materials became scarce, and information particular ministries.from outside of the country even scarcer. The artists of Myanmar had to relyon themselves and each other to learn about new art concepts, share ideas Mandalay is an older city than Yangon, and its surrounds are chock-fulland translate their styles and subjects to a select audience. of precious Buddhist history. It preserves the traditional arts through its workshops and artisans, but maintains some distance from contemporary

80 HOTELS and RESORTS 81 HOTELS and RESORTS

82 HOTELS and RESORTS 83 Myanmar’s hospitality scene offers the visitor a range of rooms from colonial-era grandeur to beachside villas and the biggest names in the hotel business. Though Mandalay, Bagan and the capital of Nay Pyi Taw have some excellent upscale choices, ground zero for hoteliers is still Yangon. Across Southeast Asia, where the past is being bulldozed in the name of the present, this port city and former lynchpin in the British Empire still has plenty of old-world charms, especially its architecture. On this list of metropolitan treasures, the Strand Hotel looms large. Stepping into the hotel, originally constructed in 1903, is like time traveling back to that era of empire building. The lobby is decorated with museum-worthy furnishings, photos and chandeliers: motifs that are carried over in the spacious suites, each of which comes with a personal butler. Guests can also take high tea at the Strand Café and dine in style at the hotel’s signature restaurant. Another venerable name in hospitality is the Shangri-La. Yangon’s local version, known as the Sule Shangri- La, is smack dab in the city’s most historic district and exudes all the time-honored Asian exoticism associated with the brand. On the upper floors of this 22-storey edifice, business travelers can enjoy all the perks and workstations on the executive floors. Near Kandawgi Lake and the Shwedagon Pagoda is another major player in the hotel arena: the Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon, which has hosted such business luminaries as George Soros and political stalwarts as Hillary Clinton. Embellished with a massive collection of specially curated Myanmar artworks, the hotel has a grand selection of restaurants (Chinese, Japanese and international) as well as some cool nightlife venues and beautiful gardens. A new player in Yangon is the Lotte Hotel, part of the Korean brand, picturesquely situated beside Inya Lake. The hotel’s cutting-edge design, its rooms which exude elegant simplicity, and its Korean restaurant, Mungungwha, are going to ensure that this hotel develops a loyal clientele of repeat visitors. Moving over to Bagan, this massive site of ruins and beautifully preserved temples has hotels and resorts that can almost equal that rustic magnificence. Take the Hotel @ Tharabar Gate as an excellent example. This eco- sensitive property is a paragon of sustainability, using local fabrics, lacquerware paintings, marble and coconut shells to stunning effect in a naturally handsome setting. When in Mandalay, the peak of the hotel scene, both literally and figuratively, may well be the Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel, which affords breath-stealing views of the hill, the Royal Palace and the Ayeyarwaddy River, from more than 200 rooms embellished with antiques and artworks. To really get away from it all, head to the Ngapali Bay Villas and Spa, situated on a scenic beach facing the Bay of Bengal on Rakhine State’s western seaboard. The sea-view villas boast maximum comfort and floor-to- ceiling windows while the resort is an enclave of local tourism that offers many chances to explore this little- visited region.

104 RESTAURANTS and CAFÉS 105 RESTAURANTS and CAFÉS

106 RESTAURANTS and CAFÉS 107 N Myanmar has witnessed an incredible boom in its Besides traditional fare from various regions around the country, visitors can enjoy an amazing variety of European and Asian ED restaurant business since the country opened to dishes as more international restaurants open. For Thai food there is the popular award-winning Royal Jasmine Authentic the international community in April 2011, after Thai Cuisine and for a selection of Southeast Asia’s top dishes Sofaer & Co, Asia House and Monsoon. half a century of military rule. Ren Kandawgyi, or Menzo and Ippudo for Ramen, are favorites for Japanese food. Marina is home to fine-dining Indian Local and international players are striving to secure a place cuisine, Mugungwha and Sorabol for Korean, Paradise Dynasty, White Rice and Beauty in the Pot for Chinese. Western in various niche markets offering a diversity of cuisines and cuisine is served at Sharky’s, The West Steakhouse and the new 50th Street Café Restaurant and Bar. an incredible choice that was not available previously. Complementing the dining experience, Myanmar’s nightlife scene is also expanding at a fast pace. The entrance of Harry’s Yangon is a prime playing field followed by other major Bar from Singapore, Beer Factory from Malaysia, and Hard Rock Café creates a new chapter in urban entertainment, which cities such as Mandalay, Bagan and Nay Pyi Taw. Adding in turn encourages creativity among local entrepreneurs. To gain a competitive edge, local concept bars have emerged such to Yangon’s existing fine dining options, namely The Strand as Blind Tiger, a speakeasy bar; Jazz in Time, the very first jazz bar in Yangon and Burbrit Brewery, the first microbrewery in Hotel, Le Planteur and L’Opera, we see the arrival of modern Yangon. concept fine dining at SEEDS by Michelin Star Chef Felix Eppisser and his wife, Lucia, and The Yangon Restaurant With the magnificent view of Shwedagon Pagoda at night, or Yangon’s bustling downtown street and market scene, rooftop famed for its garden view of the iconic People’s Park. For bars are popular. Among them, The Penthouse, The One Entertainment Rooftop Bar, Vista Bar, Atlas, and Yangon Yangon are casual dining, many places such as Hard Rock Café, Harry’s, highly recommended. and Mahlzeit German restaurant have gained popularity with local diners, expatriate residents and tourists. The dining scene in Myanmar, particularly Yangon, will continue to advance rapidly with new concepts and creations evolving in the coming years to tempt new generations of travellers and residents. Apart from independent standalone cafés, there has been RGOAMR D E S an increase in new restaurants located in hotels, especially S E following the opening of the Lotte Hotel and Serviced A Apartments, with its three new restaurants and Hotel G PMHAOYTBOE F with Babett Eateries, recently acclaimed as an “IT” place for Yangonites. Visitors to Myanmar should not miss the opportunity to experience local cuisine. The long-established Padonmar enjoys a loyal following and the newer Rangoon Tea House is also a popular choice for high quality Myanmar food served in a hospitable setting. Mandalay Tea Room in Yankin Township offers Mandalay style breakfast and lunch. For those with more adventurous taste buds, local ethnic cuisine is served at ROOT, the only Wa restaurant and bar in Yangon. Currently, foreigners cannot travel to the Wa region, but the restaurant makes it possible for the food of this region to travel to Yangon offering visitors an opportunity learn more about Wa ethnic culture. Additionally, there are other regional food themes hailing from Kachin (Chin Ngan Sat), Rakhine (Min Lann), Shan (Shan Yoe Yar) and Mon (Jana Mon).

118 CRUISE and GOLF 119 CRUISE and GOLF

120 CRUISE and GOLF 121 River cruises are the epitome of the “slow travel” trend. In the digital, hurly-burly world of high-speed everything, this THE STRAND CRUISE trend urges us to slow down to take in and reflect on what we’re seeing. The oldest colonial-era hotel launched their own luxurious cruises In the case of Myanmar, a country that teems with waterways and aquatic culture, that means cruising into the very heart of of the Ayeyarwaddy River in 2016 in a lavish take on a traditional its history and vibrant hinterlands. Expect to see such slices of daily life as fisher-folk casting their nets, farmers ambling past river cruiser outfitted with all the amenities any discerning traveler with their livestock, children playing and bathing, monks robed in burgundy red and nuns in pink, village ladies sauntering could ask for, such as Wi-Fi and individually controlled air- past with urns on their heads, and craftspeople engaged in the handiwork of their vocations. conditioning units. And you can experience all this while cruising in style down river aboard vessels that are comfortable, safe and luxuriously The well-appointed cabins will be your floating home on the two appointed with all the teakwood and brass trimmings from a bygone era of riverine travel that stretches from the 19th main itineraries, available from January to April and September to century into the new millennium. December, namely, a three-night odyssey from Mandalay to Bagan and a four-night trip from Mandalay to Bagan. These are not mass-market cruises with hundreds of people on board. Some of the smaller vessels may only have room for 14 passengers, which makes for a more intimate experience and a chance to bond with other travelers and crew. It also means Looking over the itinerary for the former program will give you that cabins have plenty of living space and come with such amenities as en-suite bathrooms, air-conditioning, hot showers a good idea of what’s in store. Billed as “Wonders and Vistas of and electricity around the clock. the Royal Capitals,” the first day begins with a tour of the U-Bein Bridge, possibly the longest and oldest teak wood bridge in the The safety standards are also very high. On board are smoke detectors, fire extinguishers, emergency lighting, life jackets and world, before moving on to explore some of the area’s most scenic dinghies. So leave your worries back on shore and enjoy all the cultural, historic and culinary immersion. and historic monasteries and pagodas. Watching the sun set over the river in a blaze of glory will cap off the day’s sightseeing. The companies represented here are the crème de la crème. All of them offer golden opportunities to take in the country’s main rivers and backwaters for a few days or a couple of weeks. Included on many of the itineraries are stopovers at the The second morning begins with a horse-cart journey to explore the U-Bein Bridge, perhaps the longest and oldest such structure made of teak wood, the heritage-rich former royal capital of Ava, ruins of the royal dynasty of Ava, which ran from the 14th to the and the temple-studded plains of Bagan. 19th century. Back on board, an Asian-style lunch is the order of the afternoon as the boat wends its way towards Bagan, while guests But that’s just stirring the surface of these cruises. Many of them also include visits to local villages and monasteries, onboard can soak up the scenery, chill out by the pool, or watch performing performances of traditional music, dance and puppet shows, as well as the chance to spot the elusive Irrawaddy dolphin. arts on board. Then there’s a cocktail and grill dinner in the boat’s Strand Restaurant. Myanmar’s topography is as rich as its culture and, in a country where much of the population dwells in three main river valleys, these cruises will reveal the country’s true art and soul. The highlight of the last day is the Bagan Heritage Trail composed of stops at the area’s most architecturally lavish temples that will whet guests’ appetites for the farewell dinner of exquisite French dining aboard the boat.