477Chapter 21: The Western Riviera: From St-Tropez to CannesSt-Paul-de-Vence and the Fondation Maeght St-Paul-de-Vence, one of the most beautiful villages in France, is a small pedestrian-only medieval burg built into a steep hill, with dozens of art galleries lining the cobblestone streets. St-Paul-de-Vence is popular with visitors making a day trip of strolling the narrow, steep streets and walk- ing around the ramparts of this fortified town. After the day-trippers leave, the village is peaceful in the evenings. St-Paul’s history can be traced back to the 6th century B.C., when a forti- fied enclosure was built here. The site came under Roman rule in 154 B.C. and prospered as a key stop on an east–west trading route. The castle on the top of the hill was built in the 12th century, as was the Romanesque church nearby. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the village became pros- perous as a provincial capital and took on the look it retains today. In the 20th century, celebrities discovered St-Paul, and artists, writers, and film- makers flocked to the village. Expensive hotels and restaurants soon fol- lowed. A short walk from the entrance to the village is the Fondation Maeght, one of the best modern art museums in France. Getting there The best way to get to St-Paul is to drive. From Nice, take A8 to Cagnes- sur-Mer and then follow the signs and the Route de la Colle (RD 436) to St-Paul-de-Vence. The drive from Nice takes about 35 to 40 minutes. The nearest bus stop is located on the Route de Vence, 0.5km (1⁄4 mile) from the town ramparts. Buses leave frequently from Nice (31km/19 miles from St-Paul) and the neighboring town of Cagnes-sur-Mer (6km/ 4 miles from St-Paul). The bus from Nice (no. 400 or no. 410) costs 4.20€ ($5.45), and the bus from Cagnes-sur-Mer costs 2.10€ ($2.75). Call the bus company Cie SAP (% 04-93-58-37-60) for the schedule. The closest train station is in Cagnes-sur-Mer, 6km (4 miles) away. The train from Nice to Cagnes-sur-Mer takes about 7 minutes and costs 2.50€ ($3.25). For train schedules, call % 3635 within France. Getting around and getting information St-Paul is small and easy to walk through. No cars are allowed within the ramparts, except for people who have reservations at one of the hotels. If you have a reservation, you can drive in and park at your hotel. The town has two local cab companies: Taxi Daniel at % 04-93-73-64-30 and Taxi Jean-Luc at % 06-08-26-11-72. The tourist office is at 2 rue Grande (% 04-93-32-86-95; Fax: 04-93-32-60- 27; www.saintpaulweb.net). The office is open daily October through May 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and June through September 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. To send or check on e-mail, stop at St-Paul Web (4 rue de l’Etoile; % 04-93- 32-07-80), open daily 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
478 Part VI: Provence and the Riviera Spending the night Hostellerie les Remparts $ St-Paul-de-Vence How unexpected to find an affordable hotel in St-Paul. After all the day- trippers have left, you can wander the romantic streets in peace and make your way to this medieval house, located in the center of the village, for a candlelit dinner and quiet slumber. The rooms are on the small side, but they’re unique, with arches, stone walls, paintings, and antiques. Each room has a view of the village or the valley below, and some have floor-to- ceiling windows. The restaurant, with a terrace and noted for its quick, simple food, offers reasonably priced Provençal cuisine. 72 rue Grande. %/fax 04-93-32-09-88. www.hotel-les-remparts.net. Parking: free. Rack rates: 39€–80€ ($51–$104) double. Breakfast: 7€ ($9.10). MC, V. Hôtel le Hameau $–$$$ St.-Paul-de-Vence This former farmhouse, built in the 1700s, about a kilometer (half-mile) north from St-Paul, is a pleasant place to stay, with views of the village. The rooms are attractive — some have tiled floors and beamed ceilings, and all contain antiques. The large garden has jasmine, honeysuckle, and a greenhouse-inspired orangerie. The hotel also has a large pool with a Jacuzzi. Breakfast, in your room or on the terrace, includes homemade orange marmelade. When artist Marc Chagall visited St-Paul, he stayed here. 528 route de la Colle. % 04-93-32-80-24. Fax: 04-93-32-55-75. www.le-hameau.com. Parking: free. Rack rates: 105€–170€ ($137–$221) double; 190€ ($247) suite. Breakfast: 13€ ($16). MC, V. Hôtel le St-Paul $$–$$$ St-Paul This Relais & Châteaux location, occupying a 16th-century house in the heart of the village, offers St-Paul’s most deluxe accommodations within the ramparts. The 19 rooms and suites are grandly decorated with antiques and the finest fabrics. The hotel has a fine Provençal restaurant, with three dining rooms and a terrace, where you’re surrounded by flower- ing window boxes and centuries-old village buildings. Set menus cost 42€ to 47€ ($55–$61) at lunch and 68€ to 92€ ($88–$120) at dinner. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner. 86 rue Grande. % 04-93-32-65-25. Fax: 04-93-32-52-94. www.lesaintpaul.com. Parking: free. Rack rates: 190€–350€ ($247–$455) double; 400€–580€ ($520–$754) suite. Breakfast: 22€–28€ ($29–$36). AE, DC, MC, V.
479Chapter 21: The Western Riviera: From St-Tropez to CannesLe Mas d’Artigny$$ St-PaulAbout 2km (11⁄4 miles) south from St-Paul, and constructed in 1973 to emu-late a solidly built large-scale Provençale mas (farmhouse), this exquisite85-room hotel is set among acres of pine groves. All rooms have balconieswith distant sea views, and the hotel has 25 luxury suites. Amenitiesinclude a heated pool, tennis courts, mountain bikes, a golf driving range,billiards, a fitness jogging course, and a small gym. The expensive restau-rant features the cuisine of Chef Francis Scordel, who won the Toque d’Or(“golden chef’s hat”) in 1999, an annual award presented by the NationalAcademy of Cuisine.Route de la Colle. % 04-93-32-84-54. Fax: 04-93-32-95-36. www.mas-artigny.com.Parking: free. Rack rates: 150€–380€ ($195–$494) double; from 450€ ($585) suite.Breakfast: 25€ ($33). AE, DC, MC, V.Dining locallyLa Colombe d’Or$–$$$ St-Paul-de-Vence PROVENÇALThis world-famous hotel/restaurant has been host to the rich and famousfor decades. But over the years, the Golden Dove has become a bit of atourist trap, with its food not measuring up to the high prices. Expect tofind the most typical Provençal cuisine, with first courses such as foie grasand main courses such as roasted monkfish with herbs and Sisteron lamb.The most memorable aspect of the meal is the remarkable art collectionon the walls of the public rooms, with works by Matisse, Braque, Léger,and Calder, among others. The hotel also has 26 expensive rooms andsuites (275€/$ 358 for a double; 340€/$ 442 for a suite), with access to aheated pool and sauna.Place de Gaulle. % 04-93-32-80-02. Reservations necessary. Main courses: 17€–28€($22–$36). AE, DC, MC, V. Open: Daily noon–2 p.m. and 7:30–10 p.m. Closed Nov–Dec.Exploring the townMusée d’Histoire Locale (place de l’Eglise; % 04-93-32-41-13), celebratesthe events that shaped St-Paul-de-Vence and the region around it withartifacts and dozens of photographs showcasing life here around 1910.On site are several wax figures representing the celebrities who madethe town their temporary home, including French actors Yves Montand,Lino Ventura, Jean-Paul Belmondo, and Simone Signoret. Except for anannual holiday during two weeks in November, it’s open daily from 10a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 1:30 to 5:30 p.m. The entrance price is 3€ ($3.90)for adults, 2€ ($2.60) for children 6 to 16, and free for children youngerthan 6.
480 Part VI: Provence and the Riviera The privately owned Fondation Maeght, located just outside the town walls (% 04-93-32-81-63; www.fondation-maeght.com), is dedicated to modern art. The building itself is a striking contemporary art statement; the grounds and building exterior display monumental sculptures, ceramics, and stained glass by artists such as Giacometti, Miró, and Chagall. Although it owns an important collection of works (by artists such as Bonnard, Braque, Calder, Chagall, Giacometti, Matisse, and Miró), the museum is usually filled with special exhibits drawn from public and private collections. This museum is large, so you may need to allow yourself a couple of hours to go through it. It’s open daily October through June 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 to 6 p.m. and July through September 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Admission is 11€ ($14) for adults, 9€ ($12) for ages 10 to 25, and free for children younger than 10. Shopping for local treasures The village streets are chock-full of expensive boutiques and galleries. Some top galleries include Atelier/Boutique Christian Choisy (5 rue de la Tour/Ramparts Ouest; % 04-93-32-01-80) and Galerie Lilo Marti (à la Placette; % 04-93-32-91-22). Jewelry lovers will want to check out Nicola’s Tahitian Pearl (47 rue Grande; % 04-93-32-67-05). Climb down some steep steps to a 14th-century wine cellar to visit La Petite Cave de St-Paul (7 rue de l’Etoile; % 04-93-32-59-54), which stocks an excellent selection of regional wine. Among the shop’s most prized wines are bottles from Le Mas Bernard, the winery owned by Fondation Maeght, which owns only 3 hectares (7 acres) of vineyards west of St-Paul. The wine from Le Mas Bernard is very good and unavail- able in the United States because of the small production.
Part VIIThe Part of Tens
In this part . . .This part, a standard of For Dummies books, offers you some info on French foods and gifts so that your trip iseasier and more fun. The fabulous food is one of the bestthings about France: You shouldn’t leave the country withouttrying some of its specialties. In Chapter 22, we list the foodsyou simply will want to try while in the gourmet capital of theworld. In Chapter 23, we list ten special gift ideas for thosejealous friends and family members that you left behind.
Chapter 22 Bon Appétit: Ten Foods You’ll Want to Taste While in France In This Chapter ᮣ Learning breakfast basics ᮣ Trying frogs and snails and puppy-dog tails (actually just frogs and snails) ᮣ Negotiating the cheese chariot Tasting the amazing cuisine of France is one of the best reasons for visiting the country. Being adventurous is key: Many of the best foods in France are rarely seen in the United States — and if they are, they taste better in France. You can put your trust in French chefs because they take great pride in the freshness and preparation of their food. Restaurant meals, with five to seven courses, last several hours, so you’ll need to pace yourself (and don’t fill up on bread, no matter how wonderful it is). For more details on French cuisine and many great recipes to try before and after your trip, see the French cooking section in Cooking Around the World All-in-One For Dummies (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).Café au Lait (ca-fay oh LAY) Café au lait is espresso with steamed milk (similar to a latté you’d order at any American coffee bar), and it’s the perfect eye-opener for the morning or pick-me-up for the afternoon. It’s sometimes called a café crème. No, it isn’t American coffee — it’s much better. What many French people drink for a quick pick-me-up during the day and also after meals is un espresso, a tiny cup of very strong . . . well, espresso. For decaffeinated, ask for café decaffeiné or un déca.
484 Part VII: The Part of Tens Croissant (kwah-SAWN) These popular breakfast rolls are pretty much available around the world now, but if you think you know all about croissants, think again. Croissants in France, a staple at every bakery in the country, taste very different from ones you get in other countries. They’re light, flaky, and irresistibly buttery. Pain au Chocolat (PAN o shawk-oh-LAH) A kids’ favorite, this delicious breakfast pastry is a square croissant filled with dark chocolate, and you’re likely to find one at any bakery (pâtisserie) in the country. The French eat a light (continental) breakfast of a croissant and pastry with coffee. That way, they save up big appetites for lunch and dinner, which are multicourse extravaganzas. Croque-Monsieur (croak mis-SYER) Croque-monsieur is ham and melted cheese on a croissant, usually served open-faced. Available at most cafes, it’s the perfect light lunch sandwich. A croque madame is the same but with a grilled egg on top. Escargots (es-car-GO) Yes, like Lucy Ricardo (remember that episode of I Love Lucy?), while in France you need to try snails, served in their shells with lots of butter, garlic, and parsley. They’re luscious, tender little treats, but what you’ll taste most is garlic. Snails are a true French delicacy. Bouillabaisse (booh-ya-BESSE) This hearty fish stew, a meal in itself, is the specialty of Provence (espe- cially Marseille) and the Riviera. At some restaurants, the fish — many types — is served separately from the broth. When you’re served the soup, you may also be served round, toasted pieces of bread and a hot peppery sauce called rouille. What you do is spread the sauce on the bread and plop the bread into the stew or pour the broth over the bread. Then you can add the fish or consume it separately. A cousin of bouillabaisse is bourride, another authentic fish soup in vogue along the Mediterranean.
485Chapter 22: Ten Foods You’ll Want to Taste While in FranceCuisses de Grenouilles (cweessduh gre-NOO-yuh) Frogs’ legs do taste a little like chicken, but they’re more delicate and salty. You’ll find the best examples of this classic French dish in the Loire Valley.Pâté de Foie Gras (pat-ay duh fwoh GRAH) A staple of every fancy restaurant in France is goose liver pâté, which is often à la maison (homemade) and poêlé (pan-fried). Rich and creamy, with dense flavor and a delicate texture, pâté de foie gras is a quintessen- tial French food.Des Truffes (des TROOF) France’s most expensive food, delectable truffes (truffles) are a rare kind of black fungus (like mushrooms) that need to be dug out of the ground by special dogs or pigs trained for the task of locating them. Truffle season is November to March. Truffles appearing on any dish (aux truffes) up the price of the meal by 25 or more euros ($30). Look for them particularly on omelets and pasta.Chariot de Fromage (chair-ree-ahtduh frwoh-MAZH) Ah, the chariot of cheese: brie, camembert, Roquefort, chèvre, Gruyère, and so on. At the best restaurants, the selection of cheeses is so enor- mous, it must be wheeled to you on a trolley. When the waiter brings it over, ask which are the best cheeses of the region (“Les fromages de la region?”), and choose which ones you want by pointing to several. The waiter will serve them, and you can eat them with a knife and fork.Tarte Tartin, Soupe de Fraises, Ile Flotant,Crème Brûlée, Mousse au Chocolat (tart tah-TIHN, soup duh FREZ, eel flo-TAHNT, krembruh-LAY, moose oh shawk-oh-LAH) Apple tart, boozy strawberry soup, floating island (meringue with a cus- tard sauce), custard topped with caramel, chocolate mousse . . . and the list goes on. Having dessert in a French restaurant is reason enough to visit the country. C’était bon!
Chapter 23 The Art of the Souvenir: Ten Gifts to Buy in France In This Chapter ᮣ Buying the perfect gift ᮣ Bringing home a taste of France ᮣ Finding the best crafts Many people come to France specifically to shop (you know who you are), but this list is more for travelers who, in the midst of exploring this most special country, want to bring home a gift or two for those less fortunate. These gift givers often need a bit of direction, so here are ten perfect gifts that whisper “France.” If you’re a serious shopper, you may want to buy a copy of Born to Shop Paris or Born to Shop France, by Suzy Gershman (both Wiley Publishing, Inc.).Scarves in Paris The first thing you notice about Parisian women is that they’re very styl- ish. The second thing you notice is that they all wear scarves. So buy a few for yourself or your significant other. And while you’re at it, buy them for all your female friends and family. They come in all price ranges — from the priciest at Hermès to the best bargains at street vendors. And they’re easy to pack. While searching for the perfect scarves, you may want to pick up a few neckties for the men on your list, assuming your male acquaintances still wear them. Once again, a wide range of prices and styles is available, from vibrant silk Hermès ties to whimsical Tour Eiffel–patterned ties available at street vendors near — where else? — the Tour Eiffel.Stationery in Paris Although the art of the snail-mail letter is fading fast, you still can find exquisite papers and stationery sets in Paris’s fine shops, including the
487Chapter 23: The Art of the Souvenir: Ten Gifts to Buy in France big department stores such as Au Printemps, Au Bon Marché, and Galeries Lafayette. You’ll find the most original selections at boutiques on the Left Bank and the least expensive selection in the student area of St-Germain-des-Prés.Quimper Pottery in Brittany Quimper pottery has been a famous collectible for antiques buffs for many years. You can buy contemporary examples of the hand-painted craft at several shops in the town of Quimper, including the premier maker, H. B. Henriot, which also offers factory tours.Fishermen’s Sweaters in Brittany After a day or two on the blustery coast of Brittany, you may be looking to buy one of those bulky fishermen’s sweaters. The most common types have blue-and-white or red-and-white horizontal stripes. The best brands are St. James and Tricommer. These rugged sweaters will last a lifetime.Santons in Provence Made of clay or wood, santons often are hand-painted and highly indi- vidualistic renderings of ordinary townspeople and their professions and of saints and nativity cast members. These highly popular collectible figurines are available throughout Provence and the Riviera.Fabrics in Provence Nothing says “Provence” like those brightly colored cotton fabrics sold all across the south of France. You’ll see the Soulëiado brand and store name in most towns in Provence and the Riviera. Though the style is imi- tated heavily, the designs were originated in the 18th and 19th centuries. They make great tablecloths and napkins, as well as dresses and purses. You can find them at discount prices at markets in Provence and at department stores in Paris.Perfume in Grasse The town of Grasse on the Riviera is the perfume-making capital of France. After touring one of the three factories open to tourists — Molinard, Galimard, and Fragonard — you can sign up for a class to make your own perfume or buy some of the specially packaged wares. In Paris, head to rue de Rivoli across from the Louvre for the best perfume
488 Part VII: The Part of Tens shops, including those offering discounts. You can find all the top names here, in addition to some boutique French perfume not easily found in the United States. Lingerie on the Riviera It’s no surprise that the Riviera offers the best lingerie shops anywhere. You can buy a wide range of top-of-the-line teddies, nightgowns, and underwear for relatively good prices. Swimsuits (maillot de bain) also are fun to shop for here, and you’ll find a variety of daring styles. Because the French practically invented sex appeal and spare no expense to achieve it, expect to splurge. Handmade Glass Objects in Biot The tiny hilltop village of Biot, located between Cannes and Nice on the Riviera, is France’s capital of glass. You can watch about a dozen top arti- sans blowing and sculpting exquisite glass objects in its many studios and galleries. Among the names to look for are Novaro, Saba, and Pierini. Most of Biot’s galleries will pack and ship their wares internationally. Cider and Calvados in Normandy The apple orchards throughout Normandy’s rolling green landscape are known for producing the exceptional fruits Normans use for a variety of beverages. They traditionally drink with their meals a light, refreshingly fizzy cider instead of wine. Bringing a bottle of this cider home will immediately transport you back to the region’s half-timbered houses. And after a meal, Normans enjoy Calvados, a fiery brandy served with or in coffee. It takes 12 to 15 years to bring this famous liqueur to term.
AppendixQuick ConciergeFast FactsAmerican Express ATM LocatorsAmerican Express’s Paris office (11 rue ATMs are widely available throughout the country. For a list of ATMs that acceptScribe, 9e; % 01-47-77-79-28; Métro: MasterCard or Visa, ask your bank or go to www.visa.com or www.mastercard.Opéra, Chausée-d’Antin, or Havre- com.Caumartin; RER: Auber) is the largestAmerican Express office in France, and the Business Hoursplace where lesser branches of AmericanExpress sometimes refer their problems. It In Paris, the grands magasins (departmentmaintains a travel agency and facilities for stores) are generally open Monday toresolving problems with stolen or over- Saturday 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; smaller shopstheir-limit American Express cards, open may close for lunch and reopen at 2 p.m.,Monday to Saturday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Also but this schedule is rarer than it used toon-site is a currency exchange, mail be. Many stores stay open until 7 p.m. indeposit and pickup, and traveler’s check summer; others close on Monday, espe-service, open Monday to Saturday 9 a.m. cially in the morning. Large offices remainto 6 p.m. open all day, although some close for lunch. Throughout the country, banks areThe Nice office (Nice airport; % 04-93-21- normally open weekdays 9 a.m. to noon and 2 to 5:30 p.m. Some banks also open59-79) is open Monday to Friday 7 a.m. to on Saturday morning. Some currency-8:30 p.m. exchange booths are open very long hours (see “Currency Exchange”). In the rest ofThe Monaco office (35 bd. Princesse the country, most stores are open 9:30 a.m. to noon and 2 to 6 p.m., with later hours inCharlotte; % 93-25-74-45) is open for cur- summer.rency exchange, traveler’s checks, andcredit-card issues Monday to Friday 9 a.m.to 5 p.m.Banks or currency exchange offices in Credit Cardsother cities throughout France act as semi-autonomous representatives of American Visa, MasterCard, American Express, andExpress, performing limited functions Diners Club are all accepted throughoutrelated mostly to traveler’s checks and the country, but the most commonlycurrency exchange. The tourist office in accepted are Visa and MasterCard. Seeany French town will be able to direct you also “Lost Property.”to such an office, if it exists, or to an equiva-lent bank, travel agent, or currencyexchange office.
490 France For Dummies, 4th EditionCurrency Exchange allowed to bring back the following items duty-free: 200 cigarettes, 1.5 liters of wineBanks and bureaux de change (exchange or 1.14 liters of liquor, and 50 cigars. Inoffices) almost always offer better addition, you may mail gifts to Canada fromexchange rates than hotels, restaurants, abroad at the rate of C$60 a day, providedshops, and even American Express they’re unsolicited and don’t contain alco-offices, which you should use only in hol or tobacco or advertising matter. Writeemergencies. You’ll find exchange offices on the package “Unsolicited gift, under $60in central commercial areas of all towns value.” All valuables should be declaredand cities in France. on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valu-Customs ables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras.Non-E.U. nationals can bring the followingitems into France duty-free: 200 cigarettes The duty-free allowance in Australia isor 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250 grams A$400 or, for those younger than 18, A$200.of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of wine and Personal property mailed back from1 liter of alcohol more than 38.80 proof; 50 France needs to be marked “Australiangrams of perfume, .25 liter of toilet water; goods returned” to avoid payment of duty.500 grams of coffee, and 100 grams of tea. Upon returning to Australia, citizens canTravelers ages 15 and older can also bring bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams ofin 175€ ($228) in other goods; for those 14 loose tobacco, and 1.125 liters of alcohol. Ifand younger, the limit is 90€ ($117). E.U. you’re returning with valuable goods youcitizens may bring any amount of goods already own, such as foreign-made cam-into France, as long as it’s for their per- eras, you need to file form B263.sonal use and not for resale. The duty-free allowance for New ZealandReturning U.S. citizens who’ve been away is NZ$700. Citizens older than 17 can bringfor 48 hours or more are allowed to bring in 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 gramsback, once every 30 days, $800 worth of of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if theirmerchandise duty-free. You’ll be charged combined weight doesn’t exceed 250a flat rate of 10 percent duty on the next grams), plus 4.5 liters of wine or beer or$1,000 worth of purchases; on gifts, the 1.125 liters of liquor.duty-free limit is $100. You cannot bringfresh foodstuffs into the United States; Dentiststinned foods, however, are allowed. Call your consulate and ask the duty offi-Citizens of the U.K. who are returning from cer to recommend a dentist. For dentala European Union country have no limit on emergencies in Paris, call SOS Dentairewhat can be brought back, as long as theitems are for personal use (this includes (% 01-43-37-51-00) daily 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Ifgifts), and the necessary duty and taxhas been paid. Guidance levels are set at you’re not in Paris, go to the nearest hospi-3,200 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 3kg smoking tal, which will have a dentist on duty ortobacco, 10 liters of spirits, 90 liters of know how to reach one.wine, and 110 liters of beer. DoctorsCanada allows a $750 exemption (whichcan be used only once a year), and you’re Call your consulate and ask the duty offi- cer to recommend a doctor. In Paris, call
491Appendix: Quick ConciergeSOS Médecins (% 01-47-07-77-77), a 24- Emergencieshour service. If you are not in Paris, go to Call % 17 for the police. To report a fire,the local hospital or ask at the police sta- dial % 18. For an ambulance, call % 15,tion for the number of a doctor who speaks or call % 01-45-78-74-52 or 01-45-67-50-50English. Remember: You need to have yourhealth insurance card with you unless you outside Paris for SAMU (Service d’Aidewant to pay cash for the services. Médicale d’Urgence). In Paris, for help inDrugstores English, call SOS Help (% 01-46-21-46-46)Marked with green crosses, pharmacies between 3 and 11 p.m. The main police sta-are often upscale affairs that sell toiletriesin addition to prescription drugs and over- tion (9 bd. du Palais, 4e; % 01-53-71-53-71;the-counter remedies. If you’re shoppingfor products other than drugs, it’s almost Métro: Cité) is open 24 hours.always cheaper to buy them elsewhere,such as a supermarché (supermarket). InformationElectricity Before you go, contact the French Government Tourist Office at 444 MadisonThe French electrical system runs on 220 Ave., 16th Floor, New York, NY 10022-6903volts. Adapters to convert the voltage andfit sockets are cheaper at home than in (% 212-838-7800; Fax: 212-838-7855;Paris. Many hotels have two-pin (in somecases, three-pin) sockets for electric www.francetourism.com). Of therazors. It’s a good idea to ask at your hotel many locations in Paris, try the Office debefore plugging in any electrical appliance. Tourisme de Paris at Carrousel du Louvre, Place de la Pyramide Inversée 99 rue deEmbassies/Consulates Rivoli, 1e (% 08-92-68-30-00 at .34€/45¢If you have a passport, immigration, legal,or other problem, contact your consulate. per minute). Each town in France has itsCall before you go: They often keep own tourist office, which are listed in thestrange hours and observe both French appropriate chapters of this book.and home-country holidays. Each of thefollowing is in Paris: Australia, 4 rue Jean- Internet AccessRey, 15e (% 01-40-59-33-00; Métro: Bir- To surf the Net or check your e-mail, open an account at a free e-mail provider, suchHakeim); Canada, 35 av. Montaigne, 8e as Hotmail (www.hotmail.com) or Yahoo! Mail (www.yahoo.com), and all(% 01-44-43-29-00; Métro: Franklin-D- you need to check e-mail while you travel is a Web connection, available at NetRoosevelt or Alma-Marceau); New cafes in almost every town in France.Zealand, 7 ter rue Léonardo-da-Vinci, 16e Check with the local tourist office for loca- tions. After logging on, just point the(% 01-45-01-43-43, ext. 280 from 9 a.m.– browser to your e-mail provider, enter your username and password, and you have1 p.m.; Métro: Victor-Hugo); United access to your mail. In addition, you canKIngdom, 35 rue Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e open up an e-mail account for reasonable fees at many post offices in larger towns in(% 01-44-51-31-00; Métro: Madeleine); France, because they offer computers forUnited States, 2 av. Gabriel, 1er (% 01-43- e-mail and Internet access.12-22-22; Métro: Concorde). Laundry and Dry Cleaning To find a laundry, ask at your hotel or con- sult the Yellow Pages under Laveries pour
492 France For Dummies, 4th Editionparticuliers. Take as many 1 or 2€ coins as tend to be open Monday to Friday 8 a.m. toyou can. Washing and drying 6kg (13 lb.) 7 p.m., and Saturday 8 a.m. to noon; smallcosts about 6€ ($7.80). Dry cleaning is net- post offices may have shorter hours.toyage à sec; look for shop signs with the Paris’s main post office is at 52 rue duword pressing. Louvre, 75001 Paris (% 01-40-28-76-00;Liquor Laws Métro: Louvre-Rivoli). A complete roster ofSupermarkets, grocery stores, and cafes its services is available at the hours notedsell alcoholic beverages. The legal drink- above, but it remains open 24 hours a daying age is 16. Persons younger than 16 can for a limited roster of services that includebe served an alcoholic drink in a bar or buying stamps; weighing and depositingrestaurant if accompanied by a parent or letters and packages; and handling urgentlegal guardian. Wine and liquor are sold mail, telegrams, and telephone calls. Itevery day of the year. Be warned: France stores Poste Restante mail sent to you inis very strict about drunk-driving laws. If care of the post office until you pick it up;convicted, you face a stiff fine of 4,500€ be prepared to show your passport and($5,850) and a possible prison term of two pay .45€ (60¢) for each letter you receive.months to two years. If you don’t want to use Poste Restante, you can receive mail in care of AmericanLost Property Express. Holders of American Express cards or traveler’s checks get this serviceLost property (objets trouvés) offices are free; others have to pay a fee.in most big cities; ask the tourist office forthe location. In Paris, the central office is Airmail letters and postcards of less thanObjets Trouvés (36 rue des Morillons, 15e; 20 grams (about 3⁄4 ounce) cost .90€ ($1.15) for destinations in North America, .46€% 08-21-00-25-25; Métro: Convention), at (60¢) for anywhere within Europe, and .79€ ($1.05) for Australia and New Zealand.the corner of rue de Dantzig. The office isopen Monday, Wednesday, and Friday Maps8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Tuesday andThursday 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Maps of Paris, printed by the department stores, are usually available for free atIf you lose your Visa card, call % 08-92- hotels. The maps are good if you’re visiting69-08-80; for MasterCard, call % 01-45-67- Paris for only a few days and hitting the major attractions. But if you plan to really53-53. To report lost American Express explore all the nooks and crannies of Paris, the best maps are those of the Plan decards, call % 01-47-77-72-00. Paris par Arrondissement, pocket-sized books with maps and a street index, avail-Luggage Storage/Lockers able at most bookstores. They’re extremely practical, and prices start at around 8€Most Paris hotels store luggage for free, ($10). Free maps of other French cities,a good idea if you plan to return to Paris towns, and villages are available at localafter a tour of the provinces. Also try the tourist offices.consignes, the luggage offices at largerailway stations. Otherwise, you have to Newspapers and Magazineslug your luggage with you — pack light. In major cities, newsstands carry the latestMail editions of the International Herald TribuneEvery substantial town in France has atleast one post office. Large post offices
493Appendix: Quick Conciergeand the major London papers. Time and time with someone with whom you preferNewsweek are readily available. So is USA not to. A simple “leave me alone” (laissez-Today’s International edition. The weekly moi tranquille [“lay-say-mwa tran-keel”])entertainment guide Pariscope, which usually works. Special mention should becomes out on Wednesday, has an English- made of Marseille, which is a rough-and-language insert that gives you up-to-the- tumble town. The very high unemploymentminute information on the latest cultural means there seem to be a large number ofevents. You can also get the New York men loitering around looking for someoneTimes in some of the bigger English- to rob. Watch your back.language bookstores. SmokingPolice Restaurants are required to provide no-Dial % 17 in emergencies. smoking sections, though you may sit next to the kitchen or restrooms. Even here,Restrooms your neighbor may light up and defy you to say something about it. Large brasseries,You can find public restrooms at train sta- expensive restaurants, and places accus-tions, airports, tourist sites, and often tomed to dealing with foreigners are likelytourist offices. Every cafe has a restroom, to be the most accommodating. Warning:but it’s supposed to be for customers only. An impending law may ban smoking fromThe best plan is to ask to use the tele- any public location within Paris.phone; it’s usually next to the toilette. For.40€ (50¢), you can use the street-side toi- Taxeslets, which are automatically flushed outand cleaned after every use. Some Métro Watch out: You can get burned. As astations have serviced restrooms; you’re member of the European Union, Franceexpected to tip the attendant .30€ (40¢). routinely imposes a standard 20.6 percent value-added tax (VAT, in France known asSafety the TVA) on many goods and services. The tax on merchandise applies to clothing,France, particularly in the provinces, is appliances, liquor, leather goods, shoes,safe. Exceptions are the heavily touristed furs, jewelry, perfume, cameras, and evenareas of Provence and the Riviera, which caviar. You can get a refund — usually 13tend to attract thieves, particularly at train percent — on certain goods and merchan-and bus stations. Paris is a relatively safe dise, but not on services. To get a refund,city, and violent crime is rare. Your biggest the minimum purchase is 182€ ($237) inrisks are pickpockets and purse snatchers, the same store for nationals or residents ofso be particularly attentive on the Métro countries outside the European Union.and on crowded buses, in museum lines,and around tourist attractions. Women Telephone/Telex/Faxneed to be on guard in crowded touristareas and on the Métro against overly Public phone booths take only telephonefriendly men who seem to have made a debit cards called télécartes, which canspecialty out of bothering unsuspecting be bought at post offices and at tabacsfemale tourists. Tricks include asking your (cafes and kiosks that sell tobacco prod-name and nationality, then sticking like a ucts). You insert the card into the phoneburr to you for the rest of the day. They’re and make your call; the cost is automati-usually more harassing than harmful, but if cally deducted from the “value” of theyou’re too nice, you may be stuck spending card recorded on its magnetized strip. The
494 France For Dummies, 4th Editiontélécarte comes in 50- and 120-unit Avoid making phone calls from your hoteldenominations, costing 7.45€ and 15€ room; many hotels charge at least .30€($9.70 and $20), respectively, and can be (40¢) for local calls, and the markup onused only in a phone booth. international calls can be staggering.Cashiers will almost always try to sell you You can send telex and fax messages ata card from France Télécom, the French the main post office in any town, but it’sphone company, but cards exist that give often cheaper at your hotel or at a neigh-you more talk time for the same amount of borhood printer or copy shop.money. Instead of inserting the card into apublic phone, you dial a free number and Timetap in a code. The cards come with direc-tions, some in English, and can be used Paris is six hours ahead of eastern stan-from public and private phones, unlike dard time (EST); noon in New York is 6 p.m.France Télécom’s card. Look for tabacs in France.that have advertisements for DeltaMultimedia or Kertel, or ask for a télécarte Tippinginternational avec un code. Service is supposedly included at yourTo place international calls from France, hotel, but the custom is to tip the bellhopdial 00, the country code (for the United about 1€ ($1.30) per bag, more in expen-States and Canada, 1; for Britain, 44; for sive hotels. If you have a lot of luggage, tipIreland, 353; for Australia, 61; for New a bit more. Don’t tip housekeepers unlessZealand, 64), the area or city code, and you do something that requires extra work.then the local number (for example, to call Tip a few euros if a reception staff memberNew York, you’d dial 00 + 1 + 212 + performs extra services.000-0000). To place a collect call to NorthAmerica, dial 00-33-11, and an English- Although your addition or note (restaurantspeaking operator will assist you. Dial bill) or fiche (cafe check) bear the words0800-99-00-11 for an AT&T operator; World service compris (service charge included),Phone 0800-99-00-19; Sprint 0800-99-00-87. always leave a small tip (5 percent is acceptable).To call from France to anywhere else inFrance (called province), always dial ten Taxi drivers appreciate a tip of at leastdigits. The country is divided into five .50€ (65¢). When the fare exceeds 15€zones with prefixes of 01, 02, 03, 04, and 05; ($20), a 5-percent to 10-percent tip ischeck a phone directory for the code of appropriate. At the theater and cinema, tipthe city you’re calling. .50€ (65¢) if an usher shows you to your seat. In public toilets, a fee is often posted.If you’re calling France from the United If not, the maintenance person expects aStates, dial the international prefix, 011; tip of .30€ (40¢), usually in a basket orthen the country code for France, 33; fol- plate at the entrance. Porters and cloak-lowed by two-digit city code and the eight- room attendants are usually governed bydigit local number, but leave off the initial set prices, which are displayed. If not, 1€zero on the two-digit city code (for exam- to 1.25€ ($1.30–$1.65) per suitcase, andple, 011 + 33 + 1-0-00-00-00-00). .30€ to 1€ (40¢–$1.30) per coat is fine.
495Appendix: Quick ConciergeTrains on the platform, or (in the cases of long- distance rides beyond the limits of greaterThe telephone number for reservations on Paris) have it validated manually by anFrance’s national railroads (SNCF) is onboard conductor.% 08-36-35-36-35, or to get an English- Waterspeaking operator % 08-36-35-35-39 (.30€/ Tap water in France is perfectly safe, but if you’re prone to stomach problems, you40¢ per minute). The service is available may prefer to drink bottled water.within France every day from 6:30 a.m. to10 p.m., and telephone wait times can be Weather Updatesinterminable. A more convenient, and lessexpensive, means of gathering railway Call % 08-99-70-12-34 (.30€/40¢ perschedules and fares, buying tickets, and minute) for France and abroad; % 08-92-reserving seats is the SNCF’s Web site atwww.sncf.com. Remember: Depending 68-02-75 (.30€/40¢ per minute) for Parison the train, you’ll validate your train ticket and the Ile de France.in the orange composteur (ticket validator)Toll-Free Numbers and Web SitesMajor airlines Iceland AirAir Canada % 800-223-5500 in the U.S. % 01-44-51-60-51 in France% 888-247-2262 in the U.S.% 01-44-50-20-20 in France www.icelandair.comwww.aircanada.ca Northwest/KLMAir France % 800-225-2525 in the U.S. % 08-90-71-07-10 in France% 800-237-2747 in the U.S.% 08-20-82-08-20 in France www.nwa.comwww.airfrance.com United AirlinesAmerican Airlines % 800-864-8331 in the U.S. % 08-10-72-72-72 in France% 800-433-7300 in the U.S.% 01-55-17-43-41 in France www.united.comwww.aa.com USAirwaysBritish Airways % 800-428-4322 in the U.S. % 08-10-63-22-22 in France% 800-247-9297 in the U.S.% 08-25-82-54-00 in France www.usairways.comwww.britishairways.com Car-rental agenciesContinental Airlines Auto Europe% 800-525-0280 in the U.S. % 888-223-5555 in the U.S.% 01-71-23-03-35 in France % 08-00-94-05-57 in Francewww.continental.com www.autoeurope.comDelta Air Lines Avis% 800-221-1212 in the U.S. % 800-331-1212 in the U.S.% 08-11-64-00-05 in France % 08-20-05-05-05 in Francewww.delta.com www.avis.com
496 France For Dummies, 4th EditionBudget Kemwel Holiday Auto (KHA)% 800-472-3325 in the U.S. % 800-678-0678% 01-49-75-56-00 in France www.kemwel.comwww.budget.com NationalHertz % 800-CAR-RENT in the U.S.% 800-654-3131 in the U.S. % 01-44-38-61-61 in France% 01-45-74-97-39 in France www.nationalcar.comwww.hertz.comGetting More Information The information sources in this section are the best of the lot. Dig in before you go, and you’ll be well prepared for your trip. Touring the tourist offices For general information about France, contact an office of the French Government Tourist Office at one of the following addresses. ߜ In the United States: The French Government Tourist Office, 444 Madison Ave., 16th Floor, New York, NY 10022-6903 (% 212-838- 7800; Fax: 212-838-7855; www.francetourism.com); 676 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611-2819 (% 310-271-6665; Fax: 312-337-6301); or 9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 715, Beverly Hills, CA 90212-2967 (% 310-271-6665; Fax: 310-276-2835). ߜ In Canada: Maison de la France/French Government Tourist Office, 1981 av. McGill College, Suite 490, Montréal PQ H3A 2W9 (% 514-876-9881; Fax: 514-845-4868). ߜ In the United Kingdom: Maison de la France/French Government Tourist Office, 178 Piccadilly, London W1J 9AL (% 09068-244-123 [60p/minute]). ߜ In Australia: French Tourist Bureau, 25 Bligh St. Level 22, Sydney, NSW 2000 Australia (% 02-9231-5244; Fax: 02-9221-8682). ߜ In New Zealand: You won’t find a representative in New Zealand; contact the Australian representative. ߜ In Paris: The Office de Tourisme et des Congrès de Paris, Carrousel du Louvre, Place de la Pyramide (% 08-92-68-30-00 [.34€/45¢ per minute]; Inversée 99, rue de Rivoli, 1e; Métro: Palais Royal). Surfing the Web You’ll find a lot of excellent information about France on the Internet — restaurant reviews, concert schedules, subway maps, and more.
497Appendix: Quick ConciergeFrance ߜ Avignon and Provence (www.avignon-et-provence.com): Here you’ll find restaurant reviews (many restaurants provide their menus), museum listings, ideas for outdoor activities, and plenty of history about the popes of Avignon, in addition to practical infor- mation for emergencies and classified ads. ߜ Brittany Holiday Guide (www.brittany-guide.com): Come here for thorough descriptions, with photos of places of interest, hotels and guest houses, transportation information (including roadwork), history, and an events calendar for the region. ߜ France Way (www.franceway.com): With many suggestions for your trip to France — especially Paris — this guide covers dining, lodging, and transportation. The detailed listings of restaurants in Paris don’t appear to be paid ads. ߜ French Government Tourist Office (www.francetourism.com): Here you find information on planning your trip to France and prac- tical tips, family activities, events, and accommodations. ߜ French Tourism Board for Normandy (www.normandy-tourism. org): This site has hotel descriptions, information on museums and attractions, and an interactive parks and gardens list with photos and information about the many gardens in the region. ߜ Frommers.com (www.frommers.com): Click here for travel tips, reviews, online booking, bulletin boards, travel bargains, and travel secrets for hundreds of destinations. ߜ Giverny and Vernon (www.giverny.org): Visitors to the region forever associated with Claude Monet will find loads of useful travel and transportation information. The site gives details on the area’s castles, museums, and places of archaeological interest, as well as the artist’s famous gardens. ߜ Mappy (www.mappy.fr): This handy site provides exact mileage, precise directions, toll prices, and time it takes to drive anywhere in France. You can print the maps or have them mailed to you. ߜ Provence Touristic Guide (www.provence.guideweb.com): Dig into the “Art & Culture” section for pictures, exhibit descriptions, and contact information for museums. The site also has a directory of hotels and guest houses that includes photos, and the ability to take online reservations. ߜ Riviera Côte d’Azur (www.guideriviera.com): On this site, excur- sions and outdoor activities around the Côte d’Azur are arranged by season. Take a photo tour to see where you can go hiking or four-wheeling. ߜ SNCF (French Rail; www.sncf.com): The official Web site of the French railway system, this site sells seats online for trips through France. You can also find timetables and prices here.
498 France For Dummies, 4th Edition ߜ Subway Navigator (www.subwaynavigator.com): This site pro- vides detailed subway maps for Paris and other French cities, plus 60 other cities around the world. You can select a city and enter your arrival and departure points, and then Subway Navigator will map out your route and estimate how long your trip will take. Paris and environs ߜ Aeroports de Paris (www.adp.fr): This site provides transfer infor- mation into Paris, and lists terminals, maps, airlines, boutiques, hotels, restaurants, and accessibility information for travelers with disabilities. ߜ Bonjour Paris (www.bparis.com): Utilize this fun and interesting site chock full of information about the city. You’ll find everything from cultural differences to shopping to restaurant reviews, all writ- ten from an American expatriate point of view. ߜ Paris France Guide (www.parisfranceguide.com): This site has plenty of useful information about Paris, with current nightlife, restaurant, music, theater, and events listings. ߜ Paris Free Voice (www.parisvoice.com or www.thinkparis.com): This is the online version of the free Paris monthly, The Paris Voice. It’s hip and opinionated with many listings for performance art, music, and theater. ߜ Paris Tourist Office (www.parisinfo.com): The official site of the Paris Tourist Office provides information on the year’s events, museums, accommodations, nightlife, and restaurants. ߜ RATP (Paris Urban Transit; www.ratp.fr): On this site, you can find subway and bus line maps, timetables, and information, in addition to routes and times for Noctambus, Paris’s night buses that run after the Métro closes. Hitting the books Most bookstores have several shelves devoted entirely to Paris- and France-related titles. Here are a few other books that may be useful for your trip. All are published by Wiley. ߜ Frommer’s France, updated every year, is an authoritative guide that covers the entire country. ߜ Frommer’s French PhraseFinder & Dictionary helps you find the right words fast. ߜ Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Paris is for those who want to explore the city in-depth and on foot, with easy directions and descriptions of important sights. ߜ Frommer’s Paris, updated every year, covers everything you may want to know about the City of Light.
499Appendix: Quick Conciergeߜ Frommer’s Portable Paris is the pocket-sized version of Frommer’s Paris.ߜ Frommer’s Provence & the Riviera takes you to the best offerings in the south of France.ߜ Paris For Dummies focuses on the City of Light in the easy-to-read For Dummies format.Brushing Up on Basic French Whether you just want to pick up the most basic words and phrases or you want to conduct yourself with (limited) sophistication at the dinner table, use the following six tables to improve your understanding of the French language.BasicsEnglish French Pronunciation wee/nohnYes/No Oui/Non dah-core seel voo playOK D’accord mair-see duh ree-ehnPlease S’il vous plaît bohn-jhoorThank you Merci bohn-swahr o ruh-vwahrYou’re welcome De rien kuh-mahn vooHello (during Bonjour za-pell-ay-voo? the day) jhuh ma-pell ohn-shahn-tayGood evening Bonsoir kuh-mahnGoodbye Au revoir tahl-ay-voo? tray bee-ehn,What’s your name? Comment vous appellez-vous? mair-see, ay voo? kum-see, kum-sahMy name is Je m’appelle pahr-dohnHappy to meet you Enchanté(e) day-zoh-layHow are you? Comment allez-vous?Fine, thank you, Trés bien, merci, and you? et vous?So-so Comme ci, comme çaI’m sorry/excuse me PardonI’m so very sorry Désolé(e)
500 France For Dummies, 4th EditionGetting around/Street smartsEnglish French PronunciationDo you speak Parlez-vous par-lay-voo ahn-glay? English? anglais?I don’t speak French Je ne parle pas jhuh ne parl pah français frahn-sayI don’t understand Je ne comprends jhuh ne kohm-prahn pas pahCould you speak Pouvez-vous Poo-vay voo par-laymore loudly/more parler plus fort/ ploo for/plooslowly? plus lentement? lan-te-ment?Could you repeat Répetez, s’il vous ray-pay-tay, seel voo that? plaît playHold on (literally, Ne quittez pas neh key-tay pah don’t leave)What is it? Qu’est-ce que kess-kuh-say? c’est?What time is it? Qu’elle heure kel uhr eh-teel? est-il?What? Quoi? kwah?How? or What did Comment? kuh-mahn? you say?When? Quand? kahn?Where is/are? Où est/sont? ooh-eh/sohn?cashier la caisse lah kesselevator l’ascenseur lah-sahn-seuhrluggage storage consigne kohn-seen-yuhtelephone le téléphone luh tay-lay-phonetoilets les toilettes/ lay twa-lets/ les WC les vay-sayWho? Qui? kee?Why? Pourquoi? poor-kwah?here/there ici/là ee-see/lahleft/right à gauche/à droite a goash/a drwahtstraight ahead tout droit too drwahI’m American Je suis jhe sweez américain(e) a-may-ree-kehnI’m Canadian Je suis jhe sweez canadien(ne) can-ah-dee-enI’m British Je suis anglais(e) jhe sweez ahn-glay (glaise)
501Appendix: Quick ConciergeEnglish French PronunciationFill the tank (of a Le plein, s’il luh plan, seel-voo-play car), please vous plaîtI’m going to Je vais à jhe vay ahI want to get off at Je voudrais jhe voo-dray descendre à day-son-drah ahairport l’aéroport lair-o-porbank la banque lah bahnkbridge Pont pohnbus station la gare routière lah gar roo-tee-airbus stop l’arrêt de bus lah-ray duh boohsscathedral cathédrale ka-tay-dralchurch église ay-gleezentrance (to a une porte ewn portbuilding or a city)exit (from a une sortie ewn sor-tee building or a freeway)ground floor rez-de-chausée ray-de-show-sayhighway to la route pour la root porhospital l’hôpital low-pee-tahlmuseum le musée luh mew-zaysecond floor premier étage prem-ee-ehr ay-tajhstore le magazin luh ma-ga-zehnstreet Rue roosubway le métro le may-troticket office vente de billets vahnt duh bee-yayby means of a en vélo/par uh vay-low/par bicycle bicyclette bee-see-cletby means of a car en voiture ahn vwa-toordead end une impasse ewn am-passno entry Sens interdit sehns ahn-ter-deeno smoking défense de fumer day-fahns de fu-mayon foot à pied ah pee-aypolice la police lah po-leesrented car voiture de vwa-toor de location low-ka-see-onslow down ralentir rah-lahn-teersuburb banlieu, bahn-liew, environs en-veer-ohn
502 France For Dummies, 4th EditionNecessities French Pronunciation Je voudrais jhe voo-dray English permis de per-mee duh I’d like conduire con-dweer driver’s license du pétrol/de duh pay-trol/ gasoline l’essence de lay-sahns les assurances lez ah-sur-ahns insurance la clé (la clef) la clay key ticket journalier tee-kay jhoor-nall- one-day pass Aller simple ee-ay one-way ticket une chambre ah-lay sam-pluh room Aller -retour ewn shahm-bruh round-trip ticket un billet ah-lay re-toor ticket C’est combien?/ uh bee-yay How much does say comb-bee-ehn?/ it cost? Ça coûte combien? sah coot comb-bee- Do you take credit Est-ce que vous ehn? cards? acceptez les es-kuh voo zak-sep-tay cartes de lay kart duh I’d like to buy credit? creh-dee? Je voudrais aspirin acheter jhe voo-dray ahsh-tay des aspirines/ cigarettes des aspros deyz ahs-peer-een/ condoms des cigarettes deyz ahs-proh dictionary des préservatifs dress un dictionnaire day see-ga-ret envelopes une robe day pray-ser-va-teef gift des envelopes uh deek-see-oh-nare handbag un cadeau ewn robe hat un sac days ahn-veh-lope magazine un chapeau uh kah-doe map of the city une revue uh sahk matches un plan de ville uh shah-poh necktie des allumettes ewn reh-vu newspaper une cravate unh plahn de veel un journal dayz a-loo-met uh cra-vaht uh zhoor-nahl
503Appendix: Quick ConciergeEnglish French Pronunciation phone card une carte ewn cart postcard téléphonique tay-lay-fone-eek road map une carte postale ewn carte pos-tahl une carte ewn cart roo-tee-air shirt shoes routière ewn che-meez skirt une chemise day show-suhr soap des chaussures ewn jhoop socks une jupe dew sah-vohn stamp du savon day show-set trousers des chaussettes uh tam-bruh writing paper un timbre uh pan-tah-lohn un pantalon dew pap-pee-ay ah du papier à let-ruh lettresIn your hotel French Pronunciation ess-keh lay taks son English Est-ce que les com-preez? Are taxes included? taxes sont comprises? uh bahl-cohn balcony ewn bayn-nwar bathtub un balcon poor duh pair-sunn for two occupants une baignoire peh-tee day-jheun-ay Is breakfast ehn-klu? included? Pour deux personnes ewn shawm-bruh room ewn doosh shower Petit déjeuner uh la-va-bow sink inclus? ewn sweet suite ohn rest poor . . . We’re staying une chambre jhoor for . . . days une douche ah-vek clee-mah-tee- with un lavabo zah-sion air-conditioning sahn without une suite oon oh-bayrjh duh youth hostel On reste jhe-ness pour . . . jours Avec climatization Sans une auberge de jeunesse
504 France For Dummies, 4th EditionIn the restaurant French Pronunciation complet cohm-play English full (no seating Je voudrais jhe voo-dray available) manger mahn-jhay I would like commander ko-mahn-day to eat to order Donnez-moi, doe-nay-mwah, seel Please give me s’il vous plaît voo play an ashtray a bottle of un cendrier uh sahn-dree-ay a cup of a glass of une bouteille de ewn boo-tay duh a plate of breakfast une tasse de ewn tass duh cocktail un verre de uh vair duh check/bill dinner une assiette de le ewn ass-ee-et duh fork petit-déjeuner luh puh-tee knife day-zhuh-nay napkin platter of the day un aperitif uh ah-pay-ree-teef spoon Cheers! l’addition/la note la-dee-see-ohn/la noat Can I buy you a drink? le dîner luh dee-nay fixed-price menu une fourchette ewn four-shet Is the tip/service un couteau uh koo-toe included? une serviette ewn sair-vee-et Waiter!/Waitress! un plat du jour uh plah dew jhoor wine list appetizer une cuillère ewn kwee-air main course tip included A votre santé! ah vo-truh sahn-tay! drinks not included Puis-je vous pwee-jhe voo zahsh- It’s good. acheter un tay uh vaihr? verre? un menu uh may-new Est-ce que le ess-ke luh ser-vees eh service est com-pree? compris? Monsieur!/ mun-syuh/ Mademoiselle! mad-mwa-zel une carte des vins ewn cart day van une entrée ewn en-tray un plat principal uh plah pran-see-pahl service compris sehr-vees cohm-pree boissons non bwa-sons no com-pree comprises C’était bon. set-tey bohn
505Appendix: Quick ConciergeCalendar French Pronunciation dimanche dee-mahnsh English lundi luhn-dee Sunday mardi mahr-dee Monday mercredi mair-kruh-dee Tuesday jeudi jheu-dee Wednesday vendredi vawn-druh-dee Thursday samedi sahm-dee Friday hier ee-air Saturday aujourd’hui o-jhord-dwee yesterday ce matin/cet suh ma-tan/set today this morning/this aprês-midi ah-preh mee-dee ce soir suh swahr afternoon demain de-man tonight tomorrow
506 France For Dummies, 4th Edition
Index•A• Nantes, 322–324 Nice, 398–402À la Cloche des Halles (Paris), 168 Orléans, 289–290Abbatiale St-Ouen (Rouen), 306 Paris, 134–149Abbaye de Jumièges (Rouen), 306 Quimper, 327–328Abbaye St-Wandrille de Fontenelle rack rate, 89 Relais & Châteaux, 87–88 (Rouen), 306 reservations, arriving without, 135accessibility issues reservations, online, 91–92 romantic inns, 11–12 accommodations, 97 Rouen, 298–300 Disneyland Paris, 240 St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 425–427 Tour Eiffel (Paris), 188 St-Paul-de-Vence, 478–479Acchiardo (Nice), 402 St-Rémy-de-Provence, 354, 356–357accommodations St-Tropez, 437–441 accessibility issues, 97 tipping personnel, 63 Aix-en-Provence, 373–376 Tours, 246–249 Amboise, 283–284 Ussé, 269 Antibes, 466–468 Vence, 474 Arles, 364–366 Aéroport Avignon-Caumont, 338, 354 Avignon, 342–344 Aéroport Charles-de-Gaulle (CDG), Azay-le-Rideau, 260–261 Bayeux, 309 70, 115–119 Beaulieu, 431–432 Aéroport de Rouen, 298 bed-and-breakfasts, 88 Aéroport d’Orly, 70, 119 best room at best rate, 89–92 Aéroport International de Marseille- Biot, 462 Blois, 278–279 Provence, 354, 363, 381, 436 Cannes, 448, 450–452 Aéroport International de Nice Côte Carnac, 332 chain hotels, 86 d’Azur, 395, 425, 436, 448, 465 Chenonceaux, 272–273 Aéroport Nantes-Atlantique, 322 children stay free, 62 Aéroport Nîmes-Arles-Camarque, choosing, 85 condos, villas, houses, and 354, 363 Aéroport St-Tropez-La Môle, 436 apartments, 88–89 Aéroport Toulon-Hyères, 436 continental breakfast, 60 Aile de François I (Blois), 281 cost of, 2–3, 59–60, 89–90 Aile de Louis XII (Blois), 280 cost-cutting tips, 63, 90–91 Air France, 78 Disneyland Paris, 240 air travel. See also specific aéroports French phrases for, 503 hotels, 86–87 airfare, best, 72–73 Logis de France, 88 booking online, 73–74 luxury hotels, 146 cost-cutting tips, 62 Marseille, 382, 384 deep vein thrombosis, 107 Monaco, 414–417 to France, 70–72 Mont-St-Michel, 315–316 within France, 78–79 passport control and customs, 116, 490 travel times between major cities, 79
508 France For Dummies, 4th Editionairlines Arc de Triomphe, 174, 360 contact information, 71–72, 495 architecture, history of, 25–29 E-savers, 74 Arles package tours from, 77 security measures, 110–112 accommodations, 364–366 attractions, 368–372Aix-en-Provence map of, 365 accommodations, 373–376 overview, 362 attractions, 377–380 restaurants, 366–368 map of, 375 shopping, 372 nightlife, 380 tourist information, 363–364 overview, 372 transportation, 362–363 restaurants, 376–377 Arromanches 360 Cinéma, 314 shopping, 18, 380 arrondissements (Paris) tourist information, 373 Left Bank, 127–128 transportation, 372–373 overview, 2, 122–123 Right Bank, 123, 126–127Albe-Hôtel (Cannes), 450 shopping by, 199–202Albert I, prince of Monaco, 17 artAlbert II, prince of Monaco, 412, 421 architecture, 25–29Alignements de Carnac, 330, 333–334 books recommended, 31–32Alliance Française, 101 itinerary for art buffs, 53–54Amboise, 282–286 Nice, 411American Cemetery, 313 St-Paul-de Vence, 14, 480American Commemorative Art Deco architecture, 28 Art Nouveau movement, 28 Monument, 314 Atelier de Cézanne (Aix-en-Provence),American Express, 67, 68, 220, 489Amphithéâtre (Arles), 369–370 379amusement park, Paris, 190 ATMs, 66, 163, 220, 489Ane Rouge (Nice), 402–403 attractions. See also day trips fromAntibes Paris accommodations, 466–468 Aix-en-Provence, 377–380 attractions, 470–472 Antibes, 470–472 described, 389 Arles, 368–372 nightlife, 472–473 Avignon, 347–352 overview, 464–465 Azay-le-Rideau, 262–263 restaurants, 468–470 Bayeux, 311–312 tourist information, 466 Beaulieu, 433–434 transportation, 465–466 best, 9–11Antibes Cup, 465 Biot, 463–464antiques Blois, 280–282 Avignon, 352 Cannes, 456–458 car museum (Monaco), 423 Carnac, 333–334 Nice, 410 cost of, 61 Paris, 204 Marseille, 386–387 Rouen, 307 Monaco, 420–423 St-Rémy, 362 Mont-St-Michel, 316–319 St-Tropez, 446 Nantes, 325–326 Tours, 251, 253 Nice, 405–410apartment, renting, 88–89 Orléans, 292–293Apt, 360 Paris, 171–190aquarium (Monaco), 422
Index 509 Quimper, 329 Bardet, Jean (chef), 249 Riviera, 388–389, 392–393 barge cruises, 100–101 Rouen, 303–306 Basilique de Sacré-Coeur (Paris), St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 429–430 St-Paul-de-Vence, 479–480 174–175 St-Rémy-de-Provence, 359–360 Bastille Day, 45 St-Tropez, 444–446 Baths of Cemenelum (Nice), 409 Tours, 251–255 Bayeux, 307–312 Vence, 476 beachesAu Bistro de la Place (Paris), 164Au Bon Accueil (Paris), 153 Antibes, 472Au Chapeau Rouge (Chinon), 265–266 Beaulieu, 434Au Pied de Cochon (Paris), 153 Cannes, 458Au Plaisir Gourmand (Chinon), 266 D-Day beaches, 10, 312–314Au Poulbot Gourmet (Paris), 153–154 St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 430Au Printemps (Paris), 202–203 St-Tropez, 435–436, 444–446Au Rendezvous des Pêcheurs Beaulieu, 389, 430–434 Beaux Arts style of architecture, 28 (Blois), 279 Bed Keltiek (Quimper), 330Auberge de Jarente (Paris), 152 bed-and-breakfast accommodations, 88Auberge des Maures (St-Tropez), 441 Belle Ile (Brittany), 331Auberge des Seigneurs (Vence), Best Western Hôtel de France 474–475 (Chinon), 264Auberge le Ratelier (Carnac), 333 Best Western Hôtel Val De LoireAuberge Provençale (Antibes), 466autumn season, 42 (Azay-le-Rideau), 260–261Aux Négociants (Paris), 168 Best Western Le Central (Tours),Avignon 246–247 accommodations, 342–344 Better Business Bureau (Web site), 77 attractions, 347–352 BHV (Paris department store), 203 map of, 341 biking nightlife, 352 overview, 337–338 Amboise, 283 restaurants, 344–347 Avignon, 340–341 shopping, 352 Azay-le-Rideau, 260 tourist information, 342 Blois, 277 transportation, 338, 340 Cannes, 448Avignon Passion, 348 Carnac, 332Azay-le-Rideau, 258–263 Chinon, 264 countryside trips, 10•B• Le Tour de France, 45 Nice, 396baby sitter, 95 Paris, 133, 194baby, traveling with, 94–95 St-Tropez, 437Baccarat (Monte Carlo), 418 tours, 101ballet Biot, 389, 460–464 Bistro du Peintre (Paris), 169 Aix-en-Provence, 372 Blois Monte Carlo, 424 accommodations, 278–279 Paris, 212 attractions, 280–282 Rouen, 307 described, 276Barbizon (village), 234 nightlife, 282 restaurants, 279–280 shopping, 282 transportation, 276–277
510 France For Dummies, 4th Editionboating budget for trip. See also money Antibes, 465 matters Avignon, 341 barge cruises, 100–101 cost-cutting tips, 62–64 Paris, 191–192 gas for rental car, 59, 84 Salon Nautique de Paris, 47 lodging, 59–60 St-Tropez, 445–446 nightlife, 61–62 Voiles de St-Tropez, 437 overview, 57 restaurants, 60–61Bofinger (Paris), 154 shopping, 61Bois de Boulogne (Paris), 17, 189–190 sightseeing, 61Bois de Vincennes (Paris), 190 tipping, 63Bonaparte, Napoléon (emperor) transportation, 59 VAT (value-added tax), 62 at Château de Fontainebleau, 232 bus travel death mask, 421 from Charles de Gaulle airport, 118 as emperor, 15, 21–22 within France, 81–82 musée, 421 from Orly airport, 119 tomb of, 178–179 in Paris, 131–132Bonnieux, 361 to Paris, 121books business hours family travel, 95 general, 489 French Phrases For Dummies Paris, 220–221 for shopping, 197–198 (Wiley), 30 French-language for children, 94 •C• French-related, 498–499 for gay and lesbian travelers, 100 cabaret, 214–215, 424 recommended, 31–32, 498–499 Caen (Normandy), 308 for senior travelers, 96 café au lait, 483 for travelers with disabilities, 97 Café Beaubourg (Paris), 164–165bookstores, Paris, 205 Café de Flore (Paris), 165Born to Shop France/Born to Shop Paris Café de la Place (Paris), 165 Café de la Poste (Biot), 462–463 (Gershman), 486 Café de l’Industrie (Paris), 165bouillabaisse, 384, 484 Café de Paris (Monte Carlo), 418–419Bouillabaisse Beach (St-Tropez), 445 Café de Turin (Nice), 403Braserie de l’Hôtel de Ville Café des Deux Moulins (Paris), 165–166 Café les Deux-Magots (Paris), 166 (Amboise), 284 Café Mabillon (Paris), 166Brasserie Flo (Nice), 403 Café Marly (Paris), 166Brasserie Balzar (Paris), 154–155 cafes. See also restaurants; specificBrasserie Ile St-Louis (Paris), 155breakfast, continental, 60 cafesBreton language, 320 cost of, 61Brittany. See also Carnac; Nantes; Paris, 164–169 calendar of events, 43–47 Quimper Calvados (brandy), 488 cuisine, 324 Cannes map of, 321 accommodations, 448, 450–452 overview, 35, 38, 320 attractions, 456–458Broglie, Marie-Charlotte de (princess), described, 388, 389, 447 275–276Brunel (Avignon), 345bucket shops (consolidators), 72–73
Index 511 map of, 449 Cathédrale St-Gatien (Tours), nightlife, 459–460 251, 253–254 shopping, 18, 458–459 tourist information, 448 Cathédrale St-Louis (Blois), 281 transportation, 447–448 Cathédrale St-Pierre (Nantes), 325Cannes Film Festival, 44, 447, 458 Cavaillon, 360Cap d’Antibes, 389, 465 Caveau du Palais (Paris), 155Capelle de la Miséricorde (Nice), 406 Caveau du Théâtre Le ChevalierCapitaine Cook (St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat), Thierry Piedoie (Avignon), 344 427–428 CDG (Aéroport Charles-de-Gaulle),Cap-Martin, 392–393car, driving 70, 115–119 cellphone, 108–109 arriving in Paris, 122 Centre d’Art Présence van Gogh, 360 driving times, 82 Centre Georges Pompidou (Paris), within Paris, 132–133car rental 13, 176–177 agencies, 83, 495–496 Centre Guillaume le Conquérant cost of, 59 gas for, 59, 84 (Bayeux), 311 insurance, 82–83 Cézanne, Paul (artist), 372, 378–379 International Driver’s Permit, 82 Chagall, Marc (artist), 409 parking, Paris, 133 chain hotels, 86Carnac, 330–334 Chambord, 15, 286–288Carnaval (Nice), 406 Champs-Elysées (Paris), 177Carreto Ramado, 353 changing of the guard, Monaco, 421Carte Enfant Plus, 94 Channel Tunnel, 120–121Carte Senior, 96 ChantAirelle (Paris), 155–156cash, carrying, 66 Chantecler (Nice), 12, 403–404casinos Chapelle de la Miséricorde Beaulieu, 434 Cannes, 459–460 Nice, 406 Monte Carlo, 424 St-Tropez, 444 Nice, 411 Chapelle de St-Hubert (Amboise), 285Castel Clara (Brittany), 331 Chapelle du Rosaire (Vence), 473, 476castles and palaces, best, 14–15. See chariot de fromage, 485 Charles de Gaulle airport (CDG), also specific chateaus and palacesCathédrale d’Antibes, 472 70, 115–119Cathédrale de Monaco, 422–433 Charles VII (king), 267Cathédrale de Notre-Dame Charles VIII (king), 284–285 Charles X (king), 22 Bayeux, 311 Chartres Cathedral, 16, 235–238 Chartres, 16, 235–238 Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction Paris, 15, 175–176 Rouen, 16, 305 (Avignon), 351–352Cathédrale Orthodoxe Russe St-Nicolas Château Belmont (restaurant in (Nice), 410 Tours), 249Cathédrale St-Corentin (Quimper), 329 Château d’Amboise, 284–286Cathédrale Ste-Croix (Orléans), 292 Château d’Angers, 270Cathédrale Ste-Marie-Majeure Château d’Artigny (Azay-le-Rideau), 260 Château d’Azay-le-Rideau, 15, 262–263 (Toulon), 361 Château de Beaulieu (Tours), 246, 248Cathédrale Ste-Reparate (Nice), 408 Château de Blois, 280–282 Château de Chambord, 15, 287–288 Château de Châteaudun, 270 Château de Chaumont, 275–276
512 France For Dummies, 4th EditionChâteau de Chenonceau, 273–274 shopping for clothing, 206Château de Cheverny, 270 train travel, 94Château de Chinon, 267 traveling with, 93–96, 103Château de Coudray (Chinon), 267 Chinon, 263–268Château de Fontainebleau, 14–15, Chirac, Jacques (president), 23 Christian Etienne (restaurant in 232–234Château de la Grille, 268 Avignon), 12, 345Château de Langeais, 270 churches and cathedrals, best, 15–16.Château de Loches, 270Château de Rochegude (Orange), 361 See also specific churches andChâteau de Roquebrune, 393 cathédralesChâteau de Roussan (St-Rémy), 356 cider in Normandy, 488Château de Saumur, 270–271 Cimitière du Père-Lachaise (Paris), 178Château de St-Georges (Chinon), 267 Citadines Les Halles AparthotelChâteau de Tarascon, 361 (Paris), 134Château de Valençay, 271 Citotel de Garlande (Avignon), 342Château de Versailles Claude, Jacques (chef), 463 clothing attractions, 226–231 Cannes, 459 map of, 229 discounted, 64 overview, 17, 225–226 Paris, 208, 209–210 restaurants, 231–232 Clown Bar (Paris), 169 transportation, 231 coastal highways, scenic, 414Château de Villandry, 271 Cocteau, Jean (writer), 393Château des Ducs de Bretagne Collection des Voitures Anciennes de S.A.S. Prince de Monaco, 423 (Nantes), 325 Collection Lambert at the Musée d’ArtChâteau d’If (Marseille), 386–387 Contemporain (Avignon), 351Château du Milieu (Chinon), 267 Colline du Château (Nice), 405Château d’Ussé, 269, 271 Columbus Monaco HotelChâteau Grimaldi (Antibes), 471 (Monaco), 414Château Suffren (St-Tropez), 444 condo, renting, 88–89Château Villeneuve (Vence), 476 consolidators (bucket shops), 72–73Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 353, 360 Cooking Around the World All-in-OneChaumont (Loire Valley), 274–276 For Dummies (Wiley), 483cheese, 485 cooking tour, 101Chenonceaux, 272–274 Corniche Inférieure (scenic coastalChez Casimir (Paris), 156 highway), 414Chez Jean-Michel, Le Charolis Cosme, Christophe (chef), 279 Couturier, Alain (chef), 250 (Tours), 250 Crèche sur le Parvis, 47Chez Joseph (St-Tropez), 441–442 credit cards, 2, 66–67, 489Chez la Thailandaise (St-Tropez), 442 Crêperie du Vieux Village (Biot), 462Chez Maris (Paris), 156–157 Crêperie La Sirène (Mont-St-Michel),Chez Maxime (Aix-en-Provence), 376 316Chez Michel (Paris), 157 croissant, 484children croque-monsieur, 484 Cryptoportique (Arles), 371 accommodations, 62 crystal, shopping for in Paris, 206 baby sitter, 95 Cubanito Café (Avignon), 344 learning French, 94 one-week itinerary for, 52–53 passport for, 104
Index 513cuisine disabilities, travelers with, 97–98 best, 483–485 Disneyland Paris, 238–240 Brittany, 324 doctor, locating French, 29–30 Loire Valley, 249 general, 490–491 Marseille, 384 Paris, 108, 221 Monaco, 418 Domaine du Jas de Biot, 462 Nice, 402 Donjon de Coudray (Chinon), 267 Normandy, 303 drugstore, 491 Provence, 340 Ducasse, Alain (chef), 12, 13, 419, 444 Riviera, 392 Duché (Uzés), 361 duty-free goods, 116cuisses de grenouilles, 485currency exchange •E• airport, 116 Eglise de Biot (Biot), 463 estimating, 65–66 Eglise et le Cloitre St-Trophime overview, 490 Paris, 221 (Arles), 370 Web site, 2 Eglise Ste-Rita de l’Annonciationcustoms, 116, 490cybercafes, 109 (Nice), 407 Eglise St-Jacques Le Majeur ou du Gésu•D• (Nice), 407da Vinci, Leonardo (artist) Eglise St-Maclou (Rouen), 306 in Amboise, 282 Eglise St-Martin et St-Augustin Château de Chambord, 287 friendship with François I, 284 (Nice), 407 home of, 285 Eglise St-Nicolas (Blois), 281–282 Mona Lisa, 232 Eiffel, Gustave (architect), 28, 188,dance clubs, Paris, 218–220 215, 417day trips from Paris Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel, Paris), Cathédrale de Notre-Dame-de- 188–189 Chartres, 235–238 Elderhostel, 96 electricity, 110, 491 Château de Fontainebleau, 232–234 embassies/consulates, 221, 491 Château de Versailles, 225–232 emergencies Disneyland Paris, 238–240 Giverny, 241–242 general, 491D-Day beaches, 10, 312–314 Paris, 221de Gaulle, Charles (president), 22, 23 emergency cash, 68de’ Medici, Catherine, 21, 273–274 Ephrussi, Béatrice (baronne dede Poitiers, Diane (mistress), Rothschild), 429 273–274, 275 E-savers, 74Deauville (Normandy), 308 escargots, 484deep vein thrombosis, 107 escorted tour, 75–76dentists, 221, 490 Espace Van Gogh (Arles), 369department stores, Paris, 202–203 ethnic restaurants, 64–65desserts, 485 Etienne, Christian (chef), 345Diners Club, 67 Etretat (Normandy), 308dining. See restaurants euro, 64–65 Euro-Bike & Walking Tours (Web site), 10 Eurostar train, 74, 120
514 France For Dummies, 4th EditionEurotunnel, 121 France Saverpass, 81events calendar, 43–47 François I (king)•F• Château de Chambord built by, 281, 287fabric, in Provence, 487faïence, 18, 307, 379–380 Leonardo da Vinci befriended by, 284fall season, 42 rule of, 21Familia Hôtel (Paris), 135, 138 François Le Villec (Quimper), 330family. See children The French Experience (packageFamilyhostel, 95fast facts tour), 77 French language general, 489–495 Paris, 220–224 basics, for travelers, 499–505 Tours, 255–256 children learning, 94Feria Provençale de St-Rémy, 353 French National Railroad (SNCF), 80ferry, 74, 121–122 French Open (tennis tournament), 44Festival Chopin à Paris, 45 French Phrases For Dummies (Schmidt,Festival d’Aix-en-Provence, 46, 372Festival d’Automne, 46 Williams, and Wenzel), 30Festival d’Avignon, 46, 338 French Riviera. See RivieraFestival du Jazz (Nice), 406Festival International des Jardins, 276 •G•festivals, 43–47Fête de la Musique, 44–45 Galerie des Dames (Chenonceaux), 274Fête de la Transhumance, 353 Galerie Gaston d’Orléans (Blois), 281Fête de St-Sylvestre (New Year’s Galeries Lafayette (Paris), 203 gardens. See also specific jardins Eve), 47Fêtes des Vendanges à Montmartre, best, 16–17 Bois de Boulogne (Paris), 17, 189–190 46–47 Château de Chenonceau, 273Fêtes Médiévales, 307 Château d’Ussé, 269, 271FIAC (International Contemporary Art Festival International des Jardins, 276 Monet’s Garden at Giverny, Fair), 47Film Festival (Cannes), 44, 447, 458 17, 241–242films, recommended, 32–33 Paris, 189–190fishermen’s sweaters, shopping for, 487 of Versailles, 17, 226–228fixed-price menus (prix fixe), 152 Garnier, Charles (architect), 423Flaubert, Gustave (writer), 305 gas for rental car, 59, 84Foire du Trône, 44 gay and lesbian travelers, 99–100folklore doll figures (santons), Gay Pride, 45 Geay, Christian (chef), 442 379, 387, 487 Gershman, Suzy (Born to Shop France/Fondation Maeght (St-Paul-de-Vence), Born to Shop Paris), 486 14, 477, 480 gifts, 486–488Fondation Van Gogh (Arles), 369, 370 Giverny, 17, 241–242Fontvielle (Monaco), 420 glass-blowing, Biot, 461, 464, 488Fort St-Andre (Mont Andaon), 352 Globus/Cosmos Tours, 76, 77Fouquet’s (Paris), 166–167 Gothic architecture, 26Four Seasons Georges V (Paris), 146 Grace, princess of Monaco, 412, 421,France Rail ’n Drive Pass, 81France Railpass, 80 422–423 Grand Canyon du Verdon, 361 Grand Casino de Beaulieu, 434 Grand Hôtel de Suez (Paris), 138
Grand Hôtel des Balcons (Paris), 138 Index 515Grand Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat (St-Jean- Hôtel Blauvac (Avignon), 342 Cap-Ferrat), 428, 430 Hôtel Brice (Nice), 398Grand Hôtel Nègre Coste (Cours Hôtel Brise Marine (St-Jean-Cap- Mirabeau), 373 Ferrat), 426Grand Parade du Jazz (Nice), 45–46 Hôtel Byblos (St-Tropez), 11–12,Grande Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, 425–426Graniers Beach (St-Tropez), 445 437–438Grasse, 392, 487–488 Hôtel Calendal (Arles), 364Gratarolla, Thierry (chef), 470 Hôtel Cardinal (Aix-en-Provence), 374Guého, Jean Yves (chef), 324 Hôtel Carlton Inter-ContinentalGuerin, Phillippe (chef), 474Guillon, Jean-Claude (chef), 428 (Cannes), 450Gulleta, Carmelo (chef), 418 Hôtel Castel Garoupe (Antibes), 466 Hôtel Celtique (Carnac), 332•H• Hôtel Château des Alpilles (St-Rémy),half-timbered houses, 305 356–357HB Henriot (Quimper), 330 Hôtel Churchill-Clarine (Bayeux), 309health, maintaining during trip, Hôtel Clair Logis (St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat), 106–108 426–427Henri II (king), 273, 275 Hôtel Clarion Cloître Saint LouisHenry IV (king), 21Heoligou (Quimper), 330 (Avignon), 342Hiély-Lucullus (Avignon), 345 Hôtel Claude-Bernard (Paris), 139–140high season, 40, 41 Hôtel d’Angleterre (Avignon), 343history of France, 19–25 Hôtel d’Arc (Orléans), 289Honfleur (Normandy), 308 Hôtel d’Argouges (Bayeux), 309horse-and-buggy ride, 252, 277 Hôtel d’Arlatan (Arles), 364hospitals Hôtel de Biencourt (Azay-le- French, 107 Rideau), 261 Paris, 221 Hôtel de Bordeaux (Rouen), 298–299 Tours, 256 Hôtel de Crillon (Paris), 146Hostellerie de la Renaudière Hôtel de Dieppe (Rouen), 300 Hôtel de Fleurie (Paris), 140 (Chenonceaux), 272–273 Hôtel de Flore (Nice), 398–399Hostellerie du Château Hôtel de France (Monaco), 416 Hôtel de France (Nantes), 322–323 (Chaumont), 275 Hôtel de France et Guise (Blois), 278Hostellerie du Vallon de Valrugues Hôtel de la Cathédrale (Rouen), 300 Hôtel de la Fontaine (Nice), 399 (St-Rémy-de-Provence), 11, 356 Hôtel de la Mirande (Avignon), 343Hostellerie Gargantua (Chinon), 264 Hôtel de la Muette (Arles), 364–365Hostellerie les Remparts (St-Paul-de- Hôtel de la Place des Vosges Vence), 478 (Paris), 141Hôtel Agora (Paris), 139 Hôtel de La Ponche (St-Tropez), 438Hôtel Albert-1er (Cannes), 450 Hôtel de l’Abbaye St-GermainHôtel Alexandra (Monaco), 415–416Hôtel Alison (Paris), 139 (Paris), 11, 140Hôtel Ambassador (Nice), 398 Hôtel de l’Abeille (Orléans), 289–290Hôtel Anne de Bretagne (Blois), 278 Hôtel de L’Elysée (Paris), 141Hôtel Belle Aurore (St-Jean-Cap- Hôtel de l’Horloge (Avignon), 343 Hotel de l’Universe (Tours), 248 Ferrat), 426 Hôtel de Meurice (Paris), 146 Hôtel de Mons (Avignon), 343–344 Hôtel de Paris (Monaco), 416
516 France For Dummies, 4th EditionHôtel de Plaza Athénée (Paris), 146 Hôtel Le Havre Bleu (Beaulieu), 431Hôtel de Provence (Cannes), 451 Hôtel Le Manoir (Aix-en-Provence),Hôtel des Arcades (Biot), 462Hôtel des Augustins (Aix-en-Provence), 375–376 Hôtel le Provence (Vence), 474 374 Hôtel le St-Paul (St-Paul-de-Vence), 478Hôtel des Deux-Iles (Paris), 141–142 Hôtel le Tourville (Paris), 144Hôtel des Invalides (Paris), 178–179 Hôtel Le Yaca (St-Tropez), 440Hôtel des Quatre Dauphons Hôtel les Ateliers de l’Image (Aix-en-Provence), 374 (St-Rémy), 357Hôtel des Saints-Pères (Paris), 148–149 Hôtel l’Oasis (Nice), 400Hôtel d’Europe (Avignon), 344 Hôtel l’Oursin (St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat), 427Hôtel Diderot (Chinon), 265 Hôtel Louvre Forum (Paris), 144Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc (Antibes), Hôtel Louvre Richelieu (Paris), 145 Hôtel Majestic Barrière (Cannes), 451 466–467 Hôtel Marguerite (Orléans), 290Hôtel du Champ de Mars (Paris), 142 Hôtel Marignan (Paris), 145Hôtel du Cygne (Tours), 248 Hôtel Martinez (Cannes), 451Hôtel du Forum (Arles), 366 Hôtel Mas Djoliba (Antibes), 467Hôtel du Grand-St-Michel Hôtel Médiéval (Avignon), 342 Hôtel Minerve (Paris), 146–147 (Chambord), 287 Hôtel Montpensier (Paris), 147Hôtel du Manoir (Tours), 248–249 Hôtel Négresco (Nice), 400Hôtel du Mouton Blanc (Mont-St- Hôtel Oceania (Quimper), 328 Hôtel Pérouse (Nice), 401 Michel), 315 Hôtel Petit Nice (Marseille), 384Hôtel du Musée (Arles), 366 Hôtel Prince (Paris), 147Hôtel du Palais des Papes Hôtel Régence (Nice), 400–401 Hôtel Regina (Tours), 249 (Avignon), 344 Hôtel Renoir (Cannes), 452Hôtel du Petit Palais (Nice), 399 Hôtel Ritz (Paris), 146Hôtel du Vieux Saule (Paris), 142 Hôtel Royal (Antibes), 467Hôtel Ermitage (St-Tropez), 438 Hôtel Splendid (Cannes), 452Hôtel Esmeralda (Paris), 142–143 Hôtel St-Jacques (Paris), 148Hôtel Frisia (Beaulieu), 431 Hôtel St-Merry (Paris), 148Hôtel Gradlon (Quimper), 327–328 Hôtel Sube (St-Tropez), 440Hôtel Groslot (Orléans), 293 Hôtel Vivienne (Paris), 149Hôtel Helvetia (Monaco), 416–417 Hôtel Windsor (Nice), 401Hôtel Henri IV (Paris), 143 hotels, 86–87Hôtel Hermitage (Monaco), 417 hours of business, 197–198Hôtel Hi (Nice), 399–400 housesHôtel Jeanne d’Arc (Paris), 143–144Hôtel Kyriad (Marseille), 382 half-timbered, 305Hôtel La Bastide du Port (St-Tropez), renting, 88–89 housewares, shopping for in Paris, 207 438–439Hôtel La Voile d’Or (St-Jean-Cap- •I• Ferrat), 11, 427 Ibis Blois Centre (Blois), 278Hôtel le Baron Lodge (St-Tropez), 440 ice cream, 182Hôtel Le Bristol (Paris), 146Hôtel le Cardinal (Rouen), 300Hôtel le Cloître (Arles), 366Hôtel le Diana (Carnac), 332Hôtel le Hameau (St-Paul-de- Vence), 478
Index 517identity theft and fraud, 68 •K•Ile de France, 227illness during trip, 106–108 Klein, Yves (artist), 408insurance Kukurudz, Patrice (chef), 302 car rental, 82–83 •L• medical, 105–106, 107 travel, 75, 105–106 La Bastide Odéon (Paris), 157–158International Contemporary Art Fair La Brasserie du Martroi (Orléans), 290 La Brouette de Grande-mère (Cannes), (FIAC), 47International Driver’s Permit, 82 452–453International Marathon of Paris, 44 La Calanque (Beaulieu), 434International Ready-to-Wear Fashion La Canna Suisse (Cannes), 453 La Chaise au Plafond (Paris), 167 Shows, 43, 46 La Chancellerie (Orléans), 290Internet access, 109–110, 222, 491 La Chope (Paris), 167itineraries La Cigale art buff’s tour, 53–54 Nantes, 324 with children, one week, 52–53 Paris, 158 map of, 51 La Colombe d’Or (St-Paul-de- one week in France, 49–50 overview, 48 Vence), 479 Paris, 195–197 La Condamine (Monaco), 420 two weeks in France, 50–52 La Coupole (Paris), 167 La Cour du Louvre (Avignon), 346•J• La Croisette (Cannes), 458 La Farigoule (Vence), 475Jacques Maximin (Vence), 475 La Fourchette (Avignon), 346Jardin d’Acclimatation (Paris), 190 La Gousse d’Ail (St-Rémy), 357–358Jardin des Plantes (Nantes), 325–326 La Gueule du Loup (Arles), 367Jardin des Tuileries (Paris), 16, 179–180 La Maison du Village (St-Rémy), 357Jardin d’Ette (Arles), 369 La Maison Jaune (St-Rémy), 358Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris), La Maison Rouge (Chinon), 266 La Marmite (Rouen), 301–302 16–17, 179 La Mère Besson (Cannes), 453Jardin du Palais-Royal (Paris), 180 La Mère Poulard (Mont-Jardin Exotique (Monaco), 17, 422Jardin Gourmand du Presbytère St-Michel), 316 La Mistralee (St-Tropez), 441 (Chartres), 238 La Napoule-Plage, 392Jardin St-Martin (Monaco), 412 La Palette (Paris), 167jazz La Petite Marmite (Orléans), 291 La Pignatelle (Beaulieu), 432 Antibes, 465 La Ponche (St-Tropez), 442 Nice, 45–46, 406 La Poule au Pot (Paris), 159 Paris, 215–216 La Réserve de Beaulieu, 11,jewelry, Paris, 207–208Joan of Arc (saint) 431–432, 433 burial site, 297 La Roche le Roy (Tours), 250 death of, 304 La Roseraie (Chenonceaux), 273 museums, 263, 267, 293, 304–305 La Rôtisserie Tourangelle (Tours), 250 Orléans saved by, 288 La Samaritaine (Paris), 203 statues and monuments, 292, 304Journées Portes Ouvertes, 46
518 France For Dummies, 4th EditionLa Table du Marché (St-Tropez), 442 Le Grand Monarque (Azay-le-Rideau),La Tartine (Paris), 169 261, 262La Taverne du Saffranier (Antibes), Le Grenier de Notre-Dame (Paris), 161 468–469 Le Griffonnier (Paris), 169La Villette Jazz Festival, 46 Le Grimaldi (Nice), 401–402La Zucca Magica (Nice), 404 Le Harem (Cannes), 455L’Aigle d’Or (Azay-le-Rideau), 261 Le Huit et Demi (Monaco), 419L’Amaryllis (Bayeux), 310 Le Jardin (Antibes), 469L’Ambroisie Le Jardin du Manon (Arles), 367 Le Kokolion (Paris), 161–162 Paris, 12, 158–159 Le Lion d’Or (Bayeux), 309 Quimper, 328 Le Loft (Cannes), 456Lancement des Illuminations des Le Manoir Les Minimes (Amboise), 283 Le Manoir Saint-Thomas Champs-Elysées, 47Langevin, Jean-Paul (chef), 153 (Amboise), 284language. See also French language Le Mas d’Artigny (St-Paul-de-Vence), Breton language, 320 479 guided tours based on, 101 Le Mesclun (Cannes), 455 Nissart language of Nice, 394 Le Métropole (Beaulieu), 432 overview, 30 Le Miramar (Marseille), 385L’Annonciade, Musée de St-Tropez, 444 Le Moulin de MouginsL’Armoise (Antibes), 468Larvotto (Monaco), 420 Cannes, 456L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Paris), Mougins, 392 Le Musée du quai Branly (Paris), 159–160L’Atelier Gourmand (Tours), 251 180–181L’Atlantide (Nantes), 324–325 Le Parc Disneyland (Disneyland Paris),L’Auberge Provençal (Cannes), 454L’Auberge Provençale (Antibes), 469 238–240laundry and dry cleaning, 222, 491–492 Le Petit Charron (St-Tropez), 443Le Bâoli (Cannes), 454 Le Petit Joseph (St-Tropez), 441–442Le Bois Dormant (Ussé), 269 Le Petit Normand (Bayeux), 310Le Bon Marché (Paris), 202 Le Pinocchio (Monaco), 419Le Brin de Zinc (Orléans), 292 Le Plantagenet (Chinon), 265Le Brulot (Antibes), 469 Le Pommier (Bayeux), 310Le Café Serpente (Chartres), 238 Le Provençal (St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat), 428Le Carnaval de Nice (Nice Carnival), 43 Le Refuge (Aix-en-Provence), 377Le Château St-Martin (Vence), 474 Le Relais du Postillon (Antibes), 468Le Choiseul (Amboise), 11, 283 Le Relais Normand (Giverny), 242Le Cinq (Paris), 160–161 Le Restaurant Galerie des ArcadesLe Clos de la Violette (Aix-en- (Biot), 463 Provence), 376–377 Le Resto Bar/Le Provence/Le sushi BarLe Clos d’Ussé, 269Le Clos Lucé (Amboise), 285 (St-Rémy), 357–358Le Comptoir des Vins (Cannes), Le Safari (Nice), 404 Le Sancerre (Paris), 169 454–455 Le Skipper (St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat),Le Fairmont Monte Carlo 428–429 (Monaco), 417 Le Sloop (St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat), 429Le France (St-Rémy), 358 Le Table des Maréchaux (Fontainebleau), 234
Index 519Le Tantra (Cannes), 456 L’Oceanic (Chinon), 266–267Le Tour de France, 45 lodging. See accommodationsLe Triboulet (Blois), 279–280 Logis de France, 88Le Venaissin (Avignon), 346–347 Loire Valley. See also Orléans; Tours;Le Vieux Murs (Antibes), 469–470Le Viking (Orléans), 292 specific chateausL’Ebauchoir (Paris), 160 attractions, 10, 258Legendre, Phillippe (chef), 160 cost of things in, 58Léger, Fernand (artist), 464 cuisine, 249Leï Mouscardins (St-Tropez), 443 map of, 259Lelu, Jacky (chef/owner), 433 overview, 35, 257–258Leroy, Christophe (chef), 442 L’Oliveraie (Marseille), 385Les Agaves (Beaulieu), 433 L’Orangerie (Blois), 280Les Alyscamps (Arles), 369, 371 lost luggage insurance, 106Les Antiques, 360 lost or stolen passport, 104–105Les Banquettes Rouge (Blois), 279 lost property, 492Les Baroquiales, 45 Lou Marquès (Arles), 12, 368Les Baux, 361 Louis IX (king), 20, 188Les Comptoirs du Charbon (Paris), 167 Louis XII Brasserie (Blois), 280Les Deux Garçons (Aix-en-Provence), Louis XIV (king), 21, 225, 228, 395 Louis XV (king), 21, 226, 228 376 Louis XV (restaurant in Monte Carlo),Les Ecuries du Maréchal de Saxe 12, 419–420 (Chambord), 288 Louis XVI (king), 21, 225–226, 227Les Graniers (St-Tropez), 445 Louis XVIII (king), 22Les Jadins de Giverny (restaurant), 242 Louis-Philippe (king), 22, 226, 284, 285Les Mets de Provence, Maurice Brun L’Oustau de Beaumanière (St-Rémy-de- (Marseille), 385 Provence), 354Les Nymphéas (Rouen), 12, 302 Louvre Museum (Paris), 13, 182,Les Terraillers (Biot), 463Les Terrasses Poulard (Mont-St- 184–185 low season, 40, 41 Michel), 315–316 luggage, 106, 111, 112Les Trois Glorieuses, 47 L’Univers (Nice), 405Les Tuffeaux (Tours), 251 luxury hotels, 146Les Voiles d’Antibes, 465Les Voiles de St-Tropez, 47 •M•L’Escale (St-Tropez), 443L’Escalinada (Nice), 404–405 magazines, 77, 492–493L’Espace Matisse (Vence), 476 Maison de Jeanne-d’Arc (Orléans), 293L’Eté en Pente Douce (Paris), 168 Maison Dufour (Rouen), 302L’Etrave (Quimper), 328 Manoir du Stang (Quimper), 327Levy, Lionel (chef), 386 mapsL’Hirsutism (Blois), 280–281L’Hostellerie des Arènes (Arles), 367 Aix-en-Provence, 375L’Hotel (Nantes), 323–324 Arles, 365lifestyle, French, 39 Avignon, 341lingerie shopping on the Riviera, 488 Brittany, 321liquor laws, 492 Cannes, 449Llorca, Alain (chef), 456 Cathédrale de Notre-Dame, 176 Fontainebleau, 233
520 France For Dummies, 4th Editionmaps (continued) Marseille Ile de France, 227 accommodations, 382, 384 itineraries, 51 attractions, 386–387 Loire Valley, 259 map of, 383 Marseille, 383 nightlife, 387 Monaco, 415 overview, 380–381 Mont-St-Michel, 317 restaurants, 384–386 Musée du Louvre, 183 safety issues, 380–381, 386 Nantes, 323 shopping, 387 Nice, 397 tourist information, 382 Normandy, 299 transportation, 381–382 Notre-Dame-de-Chartres, 237 obtaining, 222, 492 Marsollier, Gildas (chef), 251 Orléans, 291 Matisse, Henri (artist), 408–409, Palais des Papes, 349 Paris, 124–125 473, 476 Paris accommodations, 136–137 Mausolée des Jules, 360 Paris arrondissements, 124–125 Maximin, Jacques (chef), 475 Paris attractions, 172–173 medical insurance, 105–106, 107 Paris restaurants, 150–151 Mélac (Paris), 170 Provence, 339 Mémorial Pour la Paix, 313 regions of France, 36–37 Menton, 392 Riviera, 390–391 menus, 60–61 Rouen, 301 Mercure Beauvau Vieux Port St-Rémy-de-Provence, 355 St-Tropez, 439 (Marseille), 384 Tours, 247 Mercure Centre (Blois), 278–279 Versailles, 229 Métro (Paris), 64, 129–131 Michel Rostang (Paris), 162Marché aux Fleurs (Nice), 18, 410 Mitterrand, François (president), 23Marché Forville (Cannes), 18, 457–458 MonacoMarie Antoinette (queen), 21, 225, accommodations, 414–417 226, 228 attractions, 420–423Marineland (Antibes), 472 described, 389, 412–413markets map of, 415 nightlife, 424 Aix-en-Provence, 18, 380 restaurants, 418–420 Antibes, 471 safety issues, 412–413, 414 Apt, 360 shopping, 423 Arles, 372 telephone numbers, 413 Avignon, 352 tourist information, 414 Cannes, 18, 457–459 transportation, 413–414 Marseille, 387 Monaco Grand Prix, 44 Monaco, 423 Monaco Ville (Monaco), 420 Nice, 18, 407 Monastère de Cimiez (Nice), 409 Paris, 203–204 Monastère de St-Paul-de-Mausolée, Provence, 18 Quimper, 330 359–360 Rouen, 306–307 Monet, Claude (artist), 17, 241 St-Rémy, 362 money matters. See also budget St-Tropez, 446 Tours, 253 for trip ATMs and carrying cash, 66 cost-cutting tips, 62–64 credit cards, 66–67
Index 521 currency conversion, 65–66 Musée des Tapisseries (Aix-en- euro, 64–65 Provence), 379 lost or stolen wallet, 68–69 traveler’s checks, 67–68 Musée des Troopes Aéroportées, 313Monoprix (Paris), 203 Musée des Vins de TouraineMonte Carlo (Monaco), 420Monte Carlo Casino (Monaco), 412 (Tours), 254Monte Carlo Motor Rally, 43 Musée d’Histoire Locale (St-Paul-de-Mont-St-Michel, 10, 15, 314–319Mougins, 392 Vence), 479Moulin Rouge (Paris), 215 Musée d’Orsay (Paris), 13, 181–182movies, recommended, 32–33 Musée du CompagnonnageMulberry Harbor, 314Musée Angladon (Avignon), 350 (Tours), 255Musée Archeologique de l’Hôtel Gouin Musée du Debarquement (Tours), 255 d’Utah-Beach, 314Musée Archéologique de Nice-Cimiez Musée du Louvre (Paris), 13, 182, (Nice), 409 184–185Musée Calvet (Avignon), 350 Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon), 350Musée d’Art Américain Giverny, 241 Musée du Vieil Aix (Aix-en-Musée d’Anthropologie Préhistorique Provence), 379 de Monaco, 422 Musée du Vieux Chinon, 267–268Musée d’Archéologie (Antibes), 472 Musée Flaubert et d’Histoire de laMusée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Médecine (Rouen), 305 Contemporain (Nice), 408 Musée Franciscain (Nice), 409Musée de Beaux-Arts de Chartres, Musée Granet (Aix-en-Provence), 379 Musée Henry Clews (La Napoule- 236–237Musée de la Castre (Cannes), 457 Plage), 392Musée de la céramique (Rouen), 304 Musée International d’Art NaïfMusée de la Chapelle de la Visitation (Nice), 410 (Monaco), 423 Musée Jacquemart-André (Paris),Musée de la Faïence (Quimper), 329Musée de la Marine (Toulon), 361 14, 185–186Musée de l’Arles Antiques (Arles), 371 Musée Jean-Cocteau (Menton), 393Musée de l’Ecole de Pont-Aven Musée Jeanne-d’Arc (Rouen), 304–305 Musée Jules-Verne (Nantes), 326 (Brittany), 331 Musée Lapidaire (Avignon), 350Musée de l’Orangerie des Tuileries Musée le Secq des tournelles (Paris), 181 (Rouen), 304Musée de Préhistoire (Carnac), 334 Musée Louis-Vouland (Avignon), 350Musée de Toulon, 361 Musée Maritime (Mont-St-Michel),Musée des Beaux-Arts 318–319 Nantes, 325 Musée Matisse (Nice), 408–409 Nice, 409–410 Musée Mémorial de la Bataille de Orléans, 292 Quimper, 329 Normandie 1944, 311–312 Rouen, 304 Musée National d’Auguste Rodin Tours, 254Musée des Outils de Vignerons, 353 (Paris), 186Musée des Souvenirs Napoléoniens et Musée National de Monaco, 423 Musée National Fernand-Léger (Biot), Archives (Monaco), 421 461, 464 Musée National Message Biblique Marc Chagall (Nice), 409 Musée Naval et Napoléonien (Antibes), 472
522 France For Dummies, 4th EditionMusée Océanographique Marseille, 387 (Monaco), 422 Monaco, 424 Nantes, 326Musée Paul-Arbaud (Aix-en-Provence), Nice, 411 379–380 Orléans, 293–294 Paris, 210–220Musée Picasso Quimper, 330 Antibes, 14, 471 Rouen, 307 Paris, 186–187 St-Tropez, 446–447 Tours, 255Musée Réattu (Arles), 371 Vence, 476Musée Thomas-Dobrée (Nantes), 326 Nissart language of Nice, 394Museon Arlaten (Arles), 370–371 Normandymuseums. See also specific musées cider and Calvados in, 488 cuisine, 303 best, 13–14 described, 35, 297 children admitted free, 94 map of, 299 cost-cutting tips, 64 Nostradamus (astrologer), 353 Paris Museum Pass, 171 Notre-Dame de la Garde (Marseille), passes, 61 Riviera, 10–11 16, 387•N• •O•Nantes, 320–326 off season, 62New Hotel Vieux-Port (Marseille), 384 Oger, Bruno (chef), 451New Year’s Eve (Fête de online reservations St-Sylvestre), 47 accommodations, 91–92newspapers, 492–493 air travel, 73–74Nice arriving without, 135 car rental, 82 accommodations, 398–402 train travel, 80, 81, 224 attractions, 405–410 opaque fare service, 73–74 map of, 397 Opéra de Monte-Carlo, 424 nightlife, 411 Opéra de Nice, 411 overview, 389, 394–395 Opéra National de Bastille (Paris), 212 restaurants, 402–405 Opéra-Comique (Paris), 213 shopping, 18, 410–411 Orange, 361 tourist information, 396, 398 organ concerts, 211–212, 235 transportation, 395–396 OrléansNice Carnival (Le Carnaval de Nice), 43 accommodations, 289–290Nice Jazz Festival, 45–46 attractions, 292–293nightlife map of, 291 Aix-en-Provence, 380 nightlife, 293–294 Antibes, 472–473 restaurants, 290–292 Avignon, 352 shopping, 293 Beaulieu, 434 tourist information, 288 Blois, 282 transportation, 289 Cannes, 459–460 Orly airport, 70, 119 Carnac, 334 Chinon, 268 cost of, 61–62 cost-cutting tips, 64
Index 523•P• Perraud, François (chef), 358 Perrault, Charles (Sleeping Beauty), 268Pacaud, Bernard (chef), 12, 158 Philippe IV (king), 20package tours, 62, 76–77 Picasso, Pablo (artist), 14, 186–187, 471pain au chocolat, 484 pickpocketsPalais de la Préfecture (Nice), 407Palais des Festivals, 458 Avignon, 338Palais des Papes, 348–350 Nice, 406Palais du Prince (Monaco), 421 Paris, 189, 204, 222–223Palais Lascaris (Nice), 407 picnic lunch, Fontainebleau, 234Palm Beach Casino (Cannes), 459 pilgrimage festivals in Marseille, 381Pampelonne Beach (St-Tropez), Place des Vosges (Paris), 187 Place du Peyra (Vence), 476 435–436, 445 place Rosetti (Nice), 407Panthéon (Paris), 187 Plage de la Salis (Antibes), 472Parc de Belleville (Paris), 190 Plage de Midi (Cannes), 458Parc Mini Châteaux (Amboise), 286 Plage de Paloma (St-Jean-Cap-Paris Ferrat), 430 accommodations, 134–149 Plage de Passable (St-Jean-Cap- arrondissements, 2, 122–123, 126–128 attractions, 171–190 Ferrat), 430 cafes, 164–169 Plage Petite Afrique (Beaulieu), 434 cost of things in, 58 Plages de la Garoupe (Antibes), 472 cost-cutting tips, 63–64 planning trip. See also budget for trip; driving in, 59 guided tours, 191–194 itineraries; money matters itineraries, 195–197 calendar of events, 43–47 map, attractions, 172–173 passport, 102–105 map of, 124–125 regions of France, 38–39 nightlife, 210–220 scheduling time, 38–39 overview, 34–35, 122–123 seasons, 40–43 parks and gardens, 189–190 police, 222, 493 restaurants, 149–163 Pont de Normandie, 308 shopping, 10, 18, 197–210 pont du Gard, 353 tea salons (salons de thés), 163–164 pont St-Bénezet (Avignon), 351 tourist information, 128, 222 Pont-Aven (Brittany), 331 transportation, 64, 129–133 Port Grimaud (St-Tropez), 444 Web sites, 498 post office, 222, 492Paris Air Show, 44 potteryParis Museum Pass, 64, 171 Biot, 461, 464Paris Visite card, 64, 171 faïence, 18, 307, 379–380parking, Paris, 133 Quimper, 18, 330, 487Pascaline (Rouen), 302–303 precipitation averages, 40Passe-Musées (Nice), 407 prehistoric sites at Carnac,passport, 102–105, 116, 490pâté de foie gras, 485 330, 333–334Pause Café (Paris), 168 Presqu’île de Crozon (Brittany), 331Pei, I.M. (architect), 29 prix fixe (fixed-price) menu, 60perfume, shopping for in Grasse, Promenade des Anglais (Nice), 392, 487–488 394, 405, 406 Promenade Le Corbusier, 393 Provençale Market, 471 Provence, 18, 38, 339–340
524 France For Dummies, 4th Edition•Q• cost of, 2–3, 60 cost-cutting tips, 60–61, 63, 64Quai des Artistes (Monaco), 420 ethnic, 64–65Quimper, 326–330 Fontainebleau, 234Quimper pottery, 18, 330, 487 French phrases for, 504 Giverny, 242•R• Marseille, 384–386 menus, 60–61rack rate, 89 Monaco, 418–420Rail Europe, 80 Mont-St-Michel, 316rail passes, 80–81 Nantes, 324–325Rainer, prince of Monaco, 421, 422, 423 Nice, 402–405rainfall averages, 40 Orléans, 290–292regions of France, 38–39 Paris, 149–163Reinach, Théodore (archeologist), 433 prix fixe (fixed-price) menu, 60Relais & Châteaux, 11, 87–88 Quimper, 328–329Relais de Barbizon (Barbizon), 234 Rouen, 301–306Renaissance architecture, 26–27 salons de thés (tea salons), 163–164Renault, Gilles (chef), 324 St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 427–429rental car. See car rental St-Paul-de-Vence, 479Réseau Express Régional (RER), St-Rémy-de-Provence, 357–359 St-Tropez, 441–444 129, 131 tipping, 63reservations Tours, 249–251 Ussé, 269 accommodations, 91–92 Vence, 474–475 in advance, 39 Versailles, 231–232 air travel, 73–74 restrooms, 222, 493 arriving without, 135 Rigollet, Jean-Claude (chef), 266 car rental, 82 Ritz-Escoffier Ecole de Gastronomie train travel, 80, 81, 224Restaurant Albert-1er (Antibes), 470 Français, 101Restaurant de Bacon (Antibes), 470 Rive Gauche (Quimper), 329Restaurant du Palais-Royal (Paris), Riviera. See also specific towns 162–163 attractions, 388–389, 392–393Restaurant Gill (Rouen), 303 cuisine, 392Restaurant Perraudin (Paris), 163 Eastern Riviera, 388restaurants. See also cafes map of, 390–391 modern-art museums, 10–11 Aix-en-Provence, 376–377 overview, 38, 388, 394 Antibes, 468–470 tourist information, 391–392 Arles, 366–368 transportation, 390–391 Avignon, 344–347 Western Riviera, 388 Bayeux, 310 Robuchon, Joël (chef), 159 Beaulieu, 432–433 rococo architecture, 27 best, 12–13 Rodin, Auguste (artist), 186 Biot, 462–463 Roman aqueduct (Provence), 353 Blois, 279–280 Roman ruins Cannes, 452–456 Arles, 25, 362, 369–370, 371 Carnac, 333 Cimiez, 406 Chartres, 238 Chenonceaux, 272–273
Index 525 Nice, 406, 409 Avignon, 352 St-Rémy-de-Provence, 25, 353, 360 best, 17–18Romanesque architecture, 25–26 Blois, 282romantic inns, best, 11–12 Cannes, 458–459Roquebrune, 393 cost of, 197Rose au Petit Bedon (Avignon), 347 gifts, 486–488Rostang, Michel (chef), 162 lingerie, 488Rouen Marseille, 387 accommodations, 298–300 Monaco, 423 attractions, 303–306 Nantes, 326 map of, 301 Nice, 410–411 nightlife, 307 Orléans, 293 overview, 35, 297 overview, 61 restaurants, 301–306 Paris, 18, 197–210 shopping, 306–307 Quimper, 18, 330 tourist information, 298 Riviera, 488 transportation, 298 Rouen, 306–307Roussillon, 361 store business hours, 197–198Route des Abbayes (Rouen), 306 St-Paul-de-Vence, 480 St-Rémy-de-Provence, 362•S• St-Tropez, 446 VAT (value-added tax), 62, 197,Sacré-Coeur (Paris), 15safety issues 198–199, 493 shoulder seasons, 40 airline security, 110–112 sightseeing. See attractions Marseille, 380–381, 386 Sleeping Beauty (Perrault), 268 Monaco, 412–413, 414 smoking, 493 overview, 493 SNCF (French National Railroad), 80 Paris, 222–223 soap, Marseille, 387 pickpockets, 189, 204, 222–223, souvenirs, 63 specialty foods, 208–209 338, 406 specialty tours, 100–101Sainte-Chapelle (Paris), 16 speed limit, 84Salins Beach (St-Tropez), 445 Spoon Byblos (St-Tropez), 444Salle des Etats-Généraux (Blois), 280 spring season, 41Salon Nautique de Paris (The Boat St Reparate (saint), 408 stationery, shopping for in Paris, Fair), 47salons de thés (tea salons), Paris, 486–487 Ste-Chapelle (Paris), 187–188 163–164 Ste-Mère-Eglise, 313santons (folklore doll figures), St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat 379, 387, 487 accommodations, 425–427scarves, shopping for in Paris, 486 attractions, 429–430Schmidt, Dodi-Katrin (French Phrases overview, 389, 424–425 restaurants, 427–429 For Dummies), 30 tourist information, 425Scordel, Francis (chef), 479 transportation, 425seasons, 40–43 St-Malo (Brittany), 331Ségurane, Catherine (heroine), 407 St-Paul-de-Vence, 14, 389, 477–480senior travelers, 81, 96shopping Aix-en-Provence, 380 Arles, 372
526 France For Dummies, 4th EditionSt-Rémy-de-Provence theater accommodations, 354, 356–357 half-price tickets, 64 attractions, 359–360 Paris, 213–214 map of, 355 overview, 353 Théâtre Antique restaurants, 357–359 Arles, 370 shopping, 18, 362 Orange, 361 tourist information, 354 transportation, 354 Thermes de Constantin (Arles), 371 Thomas Cook European Timetable ofstrikes, 39St-Tropez Railroads, 80 time, current, 494 accommodations, 437–441 tipping, 63, 494 attractions, 444–446 Tomb of Napoleon (Paris), 178–179 described, 388, 389, 435–436 Toulon, 361 map of, 439 Tour Eiffel (Paris), 188–189 nightlife, 446–447 Tour Fenestrelle (Uzés), 361 restaurants, 441–444 Tour Philippe le Bel, 352 shopping, 446 tourist information tourist information, 437 transportation, 436–437 Aix-en-Provence, 373summer season, 41–42 Antibes, 466 Arles, 363–364•T• Avignon, 342 Bayeux, 308Tahiti Beach (St-Tropez), 445 Beaulieu, 432Tapalocas (Avignon), 344 Biot, 461Tapisserie de Bayeux, 311 Cannes, 448Tarascon, 361 Carnac, 332Tarridec, Laurent (chef), 443 general, 496–498Tati (Paris), 203 Marseille, 382Tauck World Discovery, 76 Monaco, 414Taverne Henri IV (Paris), 170 Mont-St-Michel, 315taxes, VAT (value-added), 62, 197, Nantes, 322 Nice, 396, 398 198–199, 493 Orléans, 288taxis Paris, 222 Quimper, 327 from Charles de Gaulle airport, Riviera, 391–392 70, 117 Rouen, 298 St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, 425 from Orly airport, 70, 120 St-Paul-de-Vence, 477 tipping, 63 St-Rémy-de-Provence, 354tea salons (salons de thés), 163–164 St-Tropez, 437telephone Tours, 246 Monaco, 413 Vence, 473 Paris, 223 Tournadre, Gilles (chef), 303 using, 493–494 tourstemperature averages, 40 Aix-en-Provence, 378tennis tournament (French Open), 44 Antibes, 471TGVs (Trains à Grand Vitesse), 79, 81 Arles, 368thallasotherapy, 331
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