Technical Update

TECHNICAL U P D AT E Special Edition MICROPLASTICS THE UNSEEN POLLUTION WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW - IS THERE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HAIR ON HIDE AND FUR? - ARE THOSE SHOES REALLY VEGAN? - UPCOMING REGULATORY CHANGES - HIDE PRICES AND 2019 OVERVIEW - SUPPLY CHAIN MAPPING CAN REVEAL RISK

Are you benefiting from your Membership? Look at the list below to check that you are maximising every member benefit. Adding value to your business Industry sectors • 30% Discount on Training & Testing • Footwear • Chemical management advice • Leather manufacturing • MRSL & RSL support • Leathergoods & accessories • Technical concierge service • Chemical industry • Chemical & material specifications • Sustainability • Legislation support • Upholstery • Dedicated account managers • Jewellery & hardware • Publications & toolkits • Garments & apparel • International hide prices • Leather industry statistics • Legislative & technical updates • Supply chain sustainability support • Access to knowledge & experience • UK Leathermark use www.blcleathertech.com/membership

Our MEMBERS RECEIVE Writers 1-2-1 SUPPORT 30% DISCOUNT ON TRAINING & TESTING MEMBERS INFORMATION AREA AVAILABLE ON-LINE Peter Hughes, Sustainability Lead, Eurofins | BLC Peter leads the development of Eurofins | BLC Sustainability Services through expanding commercial opportunities, delivering specialist communication support to clients and implementing traceability systems for global supply chains. Peter is also involved with bespoke projects around circularity of leather and other materials, research into emerging material innovations for the sector and measuring the environmental impact of materials. Peter has over eleven years of experience working in the field of sustainable development with private, public and third sector clients. Peter has previously worked in the food industry specialising in sustainability issues and supply chain mapping of the ‘food to go’ sector, concentrating on improving environmental and ethical performance. Georgina Mawer, Chemistry Lead & Chem-MAP® Georgina works with Eurofins| BLC customers, including brands, retailers and suppliers to support the management of restricted chemicals and hazardous substances within the supply chain and the associated legislation. This includes product safety assessments of material and products, guidance on chemical testing and analysis, research and delivery of technical contract work; creating and maintaining restricted chemical specifications and the provision of workshops and training across the supply chain. In addition, Georgina supports major global brands with compliance programmes, due diligence procedures, trouble shooting and technical support on chemicals, EU and International legislation and the accompanying challenges. WELCOME Welcome to our special edition of the Technical Update to mark the new decade. In this edition, Peter Hughes covers topics such as ‘Microplastics’, ‘Differences between Fur and Hair on Hide’ and ‘How Supply Chain Mapping can reveal hidden risks in fashion sourcing’. Georgina Mawer discusses vegan footwear and how you can avoid making unsubstantiated claims around vegan materials. If you have any questions about your membership and the benefits on offer to you, please either give me a call on: +44 (0)1604 679999 or email: [email protected] Michael Goode, Membership Manager

MICROPLASTICS THE UNSEEN POLLUTION WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW Plastics are used in virtually every industry Global plastic and microplastic contamination and have allowed for significant technological is swiftly becoming one of the most important advances. Data from 2015 showed that the environmental discussions of our time. textile industry alone produced 47 million Microplastic release, particularly through tonnes of plastic in that year, with by far the garment washing could have significant largest sectoral use of plastic being packaging. environmental pollution implications. Plastic is a unique material with many benefits: Definitions of microplastics vary, however most it’s cheap, versatile, lightweight, and resistant. are classed as plastics that are smaller than This makes it a valuable material for many 5mm in length down to a few microns across, functions, including improving human health. which can be harmful to the environment. It can also provide environmental benefits Many objects, including garments and through certain supply chains: it plays a critical synthetic materials, have the potential to shed role in maintaining food quality, safety and microplastics when washed or rinsed in water preventing waste for example. under normal usage conditions. However despite the benefits it is becoming Microplastic contamination has been identified increasingly clear that plastic is causing in regions diverse as pristine mountain significant pollution at a global scale, peaks to Antarctica. Examples have also particularly in the oceans and coastal areas. been found ingested by marine animals and It is not the creation of plastics or necessarily even in bottled water. The full impact of this their use that is the core problem, rather the contamination is not yet understood; however problem exists in the uncontrolled disposal, research suggest that it has the potential to be shedding and breakdown of plastics. Despite significant. an increased perception of recycling of plastic, the statics show that the majority has been Microplastic release is not confined to sent to landfill or has been discarded. Most garments; at Eurofins | BLC we have plastic that has been produced still exists in considered materials and products ranging some form.

from salt, to teabags, from glitter to Eurofins | BLC can support you through testing sponges and microfibre cloths. your products for microplastic release. If your materials have the potential to We can help you understand what the volume of shed microplastics then it is recommended shedding means by benchmarking your that you spend time understanding your material and provide detailed microscopy images products through testing. Determine to visualise the impact. how you might respond to regulation or challenge on this issue. Most importantly We can be your technical partner to build your make informed material selection where knowledge of this issue and develop a reasoned possible; be knowledgeable about your response. product. For more information of how we can support Eurofins | BLC can test your products for you, please contact [email protected] microplastic release. Benefits of our test include: www.blcleathertech.com • Benchmark the performance of your materials • Access Electron microscopy imaging to see the microplastic release • Expert analysis • Consultancy support • Access to the latest Laser Direct and Infrared Spectroscopy technology for further analysis

Is there a difference betwe Hair on Hide and FUR? There is no straightforward answer: hides and not using fur then the below Regarding the physical makeup of hair argument should be considered; and fur there is no biological difference or separate definition, they are both A by-product of the meat industry constructed from Keratin. With the exception of ‘Exotics’, the primary difference between the leather If you consider the Standard Industrial industry and the fur industry is that Classification of Economic Activities (SIC) leather is a by-product of the meat codes which are used to classify business industry whereas fur tends to come from establishments by the type of economic animals farmed solely for their fur. As a activity in which they are engaged then result, leather produces a valuable by- the actions of tanning, scraping, dressing, product from what would otherwise be a dyeing and currying of fur skins and hides waste from another industry whereas fur with the hair on are classed under the comes from animals that have been killed same SIC code: SIC Code: 15110 for the purpose of removing the fur. https://www.siccode.co.uk/search/hides A good definition of a by-product comes from the Animal Welfare Group as However, the SIC code is a method of discussed in Milan: determining different economic activity rather than identifying differences in “a secondary but valuable product of a material. primary function” It is important to ask what is the • A by-product is defined as a context for this question; if it is from an co-product that separates from the ethical perspective about using hair on determining product at the split point and

een is deemed a by-product when it has less an animal farmed in the meat industry. value than the determining product. With These animals will not have been killed increasing demand for the by-product, for their hides. the rate of production of the determining product does not change. The hair on element is an alternative In this case leather is the by-product of leather processing method that is meat, which is the determining product. downstream from the slaughter of the animal and therefore has no animal • Demand for leather does not welfare impact. influence when animals are slaughtered for their meat. Conclusion At Eurofins | BLC, we provide a range of The ethical difference focuses on the type leather verification and faux fur testing of species the raw material comes from services for businesses to verify whether and the welfare that animal experienced. the leather or fur used in consumer In general hair on hide articles from products is real or fake. animals farmed primarily for another industry, such as meat, are not subject to For more information of how we can the same challenges as articles made from support you please contact: fur. +44 (0)1604 679999 To address the specific examples you mention; A hair on hide article from a [email protected] bovine animal, or shearling from a lamb or sheep can therefore be considered www.blcleathertech.com similar to any other leather produced from

In August, 32 fashion businesses signed the G7 Fashion Supply chain traceability is not a new concept, but it is Pact to reduce the industry’s environmental impact. A one that has grown steadily in importance over the last sustainability coalition with representation from luxury decade across all industries, not just fashion. However, brands and high street retailers, the Fashion Pact outlines the complexity of fashion’s supply chains, and the array of commitments at both group and individual level to meet sustainability challenges facing the industry, means that science-based targets in three key areas: climate change, getting to grips with every step along the way for every biodiversity, and the protection of the oceans. product is no easy task. Significant among the joint initiatives outlined in the The softlines and leather division of Eurofins is in a unique document is the requirement to work towards greater position to help thanks to its network of laboratories transparency and accountability in the supply chain, around the world and a service offer that includes a including the traceability of materials and impacts. This supply chain mapping service. comes at a time when the eyes of the world are focused Peter Hughes, sustainability lead at on the rapid deforestation of the Amazon, and cattle Eurofins | BLC, which manages Eurofins’ global supply ranching for beef- of which leather is a key by-product chain mapping service, describes traceability as a for the fashion industry- has been a contributing factor combination of risk management, good commercial in the now record levels of forest clearance. This brings sense, and being informed, all of which put brands in a with it the risk that the supply chains of fashion brands position of strength, not only to take positive action but could be linked back to and tainted by association with also to respond confidently to questions, whether these the devastating environmental consequences of the come from consumers via social media or from third deforestation. party investigations. Social media offers brands a huge The outcry- from media, NGOs, and consumers- in opportunity to engage with consumers, but it carries response to recent coverage, and the ensuing focus on commensurate risks. ‘If a brand says something on social sourcing practices is a timely reminder of why an intimate media that is not true, it can do even greater damage.’ knowledge of supply chains is no longer a nice-to-have for It’s not just about brand image, however, or a consumer- fashion brands, but an essential part of doing business. driven imperative to address the social and environmental It also underlines why greater transparency is the first impacts of the fashion industry. Peter argues that of the joint initiatives listed by the G7 Fashion Pact- traceability is underpinned by strong commercial everything else stems from this. Without traceability, arguments. ‘Businesses are increasingly recognising a business cannot begin to address sustainability in a that sustainability is important, regardless of what the meaningful way. If you don’t understand your supply consumer thinks. Vertically-integrated supply chains can chain, if you don’t know where the impacts are from your deliver efficiencies. Through a better understanding of products, how can you make informed decisions or take the supply chain- and in some cases by reducing its size action in a targeted way?

- organisations can achieve better buying percentages geographical map of the supply chain, which we can use and by doing so not only realise better prices but also for risk assessment and management. Once a brand has influence quality, ethical, and environmental issues. If you a good understanding of their materials supply chain, we go from being a 10% to a 35% purchaser, that supplier can overlay the issues and identify the risk hotspots and has a greater incentive to listen to and adhere to your the areas to focus on first.’ requirements.’ The current focus on Amazon deforestation is an example The growing awareness of the need for traceability is of a story, like the Rana Plaza collapse of 2013, that can also making its way up the supply chain, thanks in part to focus consumer attention on what goes on behind the the power of big brands. One of the historical challenges scenes in the fashion industry. Businesses that want to for the fashion industry was that supply chains weren’t manage risk effectively know that they need to be ahead transparent. Who manufacturers purchased from was of these stories, and that the only way to do that is to considered commercially sensitive information. That is know the route that products take on their way to the changing. ‘Disclosure of this information is now common, shelves. Because, in an increasingly connected world, and manufacturers are recognising that adherence to where news is instant and information available to traceability is an effective means of compliance and anyone with Internet access, there is nowhere to hide, increasing market share,’ says Peter. ‘Prominent brands and no excuse for not knowing. Sustainability is today’s know that they have the power to demand it, and they buzzword, but it starts with traceability. are using it.’ But how to achieve traceability when modern supply chains can stretch around the world and take in multiple actors? Supply chain mapping, part of the Eurofins global portfolio, offers three key advantages to fashion businesses: greater insight into their supply chains, a clear output on sustainability, and a way to manage risk. A three-part service, it begins with the generation of For more information about supply chain mapping supply chain data through a consultative process with contact Peter Hughes,Eurofins | BLC on: the client that aims to establish and then build on [email protected] their existing understanding of their supply chain. ‘We www.blcleathertech.com generate the data through targeted questions that can identify risks further up the supply chain that they may not be aware of,’ explains Peter. ‘The process generates data that is additional to what they already have. We then verify this data and use mapping software to produce a

Upcoming Regulatory Changes In the current climate of rapidly changing legislation and increased Georgina Mawer pressure to demonstrate a responsibility towards chemical management, it is difficult to keep on top of product safety regulations. As we look Chemistry Lead & towards the new year, it is important to be fully informed of key upcoming Chem-MAP® Technical Manager regulatory changes*: www.chemmap.com *Please note: The below regulatory updates have been provided as examples only and are non-exhaustive. Europe New restrictions for textiles under Annex XVII of REACH 33x textiles chemicals have been added to Annex XVII of REACH under a major new amendment which will come into force on 1st November 2020. The full list of chemicals in Regulation (EU) 2018/1513 can be found here: Regulation (EU) 2018/1513 PFOA and related substances under Annex XVII of REACH On June 14, 2017, the European Union (EU) published Regulation (EU) 2017/1000 to regulate PFOA (CAS 335-67-1), its salts and certain related substances as a completely new entry 68 to Annex XVII of REACH. The provisions in the new law will be implemented in phases starting July 4, 2020. For further information about entry 68 please see the annex of Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1000: Annex of Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1000 Expansion of phthalates restrictions under Annex XVII of REACH The EU has added DIBP and expanded the scope from toys and childcare articles to articles in entry 51 to Annex XVII of REACH. The restriction applying to articles comes into force 7th July 2020. For more information: Annex XVII of REACH USA California implements measures to amend its Metal-Containing Jewellery Law. This comprehensive new law contains a number of important changes including the adoption of federal standards for lead content in children’s jewellery and establishing soluble cadmium limits in surface coatings. The more stringent set of limits will become effective on June 1, 2020.

Hide Prices and Yearly Overview 2019 has been described as the worst year ever for United States of America the global leather industry. However, some stability December saw price increases for some selections of cow in the global economy was achieved in December, and heifer hides, up US$5 & 2, respectively, possibly due to with progress in the USA -China trade dispute. The US increased interest from Asia, with the impending increase in Government agreed to suspend additional tariffs on tariffs, scheduled for 15th of December, seeming to have little Chinese goods, scheduled to come into force on the impact on trade. With the successful conclusion of the ‘Phase 15th of December. The US also agreed to reduce the 1’ negotiations between China and the USA, the additional tariffs on about $120 billion of goods from 15% to 7.5% tariffs were suspended. Prices remained steady to the end of although separate 25% levies on $250 billion in imports the month, with a sense of optimism being felt from Chinese remained. In response, China suspended retaliatory tanners as the threat of trade restrictions was lifted. There was tariffs, also due to come into force on the 15th of resistance to price increases at the start of the New Year but December. This improvement in relations will come as a prices remained stable. However, there was the suggestion great relief to the leather sector in both countries. that the Chinese tanners were now supplied to the Chinese New Year and demand could slow. Slaughter numbers in 2019 Elsewhere, the landslide victory for the Conservative were down 1.1%, year on year, but with beef exports expected government in the UK general election, brought to grow in 2020, more hides could come on to the market. a conclusion for the Brexit saga a little closer. The government’s Withdrawal bill has now passed the Brazil Commons and it is expected that the UK will leave There was growing interest from Chinese footwear tanners the EU on the 31st of January. However, considerable as footwear trends moved towards corrected grains and the uncertainty still remain, with less than 12 months for option of using lower quality hides. However, while demand the government to conclude a free trade agreement increased, prices remained static and the balance of power with the EU. remained firmly with the buyers. The CICB hide index fell again, by BRL0.02 to BRL0.57/kg. With another record year for Nonetheless, the year appeared to end on a cautiously beef production expected, the prospect for hide prices looked positive note, with leather reportedly making a comeback in uncertain. Will this see more hides going to landfill in 2020? fashion and increasing numbers of hides being sold, albeit at low prices. The industry remained in a difficult position but hopefully, the worst is over France Monthly and Annual Reports of Little activity reported through December. However, calf prices Hide Prices can be accessed via remained stable on demand from the luxury sector. Other the Members Section by simply prices remained stable, with buyers and sellers apparently logging in below: comfortable with the existing market conditions. LOG IN Germany 2019 finished on a better note that in started. Through December, there was demand from Asia for cows and almost all bull hides were sold into the rest of Europe, helped by falling availability. The firm feel to the market saw sellers raise prices for some selections, in particular, cows. Suppliers to Italy reported being a sold forward position coming into the Christmas period. United Kingdom The end of the year also saw improvement in the UK market. Prices were stable at the start of the month with sellers reporting a sold forward position to mid-January. Prices for cows for China were up US$2 per hide and there was good demand from Italy for ox and heifer hides. Business was firm enough for some sellers to push for price increases but it remains to be seen if buyers will push back.

Are those shoes REALLY Vegan? As manufacturers or retailers of consumer products such as footwear, clothing and accessories; do you know what is in your product? Not the bill of materials or the name of the component suppliers, but what is really in your product. Do you know the chemical make-up of each component? To avoid the risks of making unsubstantiated claims around vegan materials or product, then you need to. Growth in demand the stringency with which the term should be applied. While some organisations classify those A growing proportion of the population is who adopt a plant-based diet as adhering to adopting the vegan lifestyle. In 2016 there were vegan principles, others reserve its use for those an estimated 540,000 individuals identifying who identify as lifestyle vegans who, in addition as ‘vegan’. This figure has since increased, and to adopting a plant-based diet, completely although the provision of reliable estimates is abstain from using animal-based products such difficult, recent reports have suggested that the as leather. number may now exceed 3.5 million. This growth For a product to adhere to ‘vegan’ principles, has led to an increased demand for vegan there is some agreement that it must not products and vegan alternative materials. contain any materials which have been derived from, or tested on, animals. In practice, there What do we mean by vegan? are multiple materials which contain, or may contain, animal derivatives, and for there to be Despite its rise in popularity, there remains some debate about what it strictly means to be a ‘vegan’. There is no universal definition, and those which exist do not always agree on

an assurance that a product is truly ‘vegan’, strict Ve-MAP helps brands and retailers to control of the supply-chain is required. Taking test, verify and certify chemicals. the example of vegan footwear, adhesives such Ve-MAP also provides the opportunity as glue are a frequently encountered obstacle to build vegan chemical management as retailers are not always able to guarantee systems which will influence that they contain zero animal by-products. With manufacturers and suppliers further the growth in veganism looking set to continue, upstream in the supply chain. assuring customers that a product is ‘vegan’ offers an additional risk to having little visibility Contact one of our chemical experts over product supply-chains. today to talk about testing, verification, and certification of vegan chemicals: How Ve-MAP can support you +44 (0)1604 679999 [email protected] Ve-MAP is a new innovative programme within www.chemmap.com the Chem-MAP® family which tests chemicals used in the manufacture of materials to establish whether any animal products or by-products have been used. Ve-MAP helps brands and retailers to correctly specify materials using a phased approach, covering the manufacture of materials, chemical management, risk assessment and DNA testing to achieve vegan verification.