ROAM Travel Magazine

DEC 2020 MAGAZINE FOR THE FREE-SPIRITED TRAVELERS BuAClzwahzysiinnga,toAwlwanys The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine Big Trails And Thrills: Little India!

Every eexnittrysomewhere else.Tom is anStopppard | 2 | FOREWORD

CONT 4Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown 14 20 The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine Big Trails And Thrills: Little India! The Modern Past ENTS 28 |3|

CBhuAlwziaAnzylwsiaaynstgo,wn | 4 | CHINATOWN

Lion dance puppets found along Pagoda Street. The Historic District of Chinatown comprises four distinct sub-districts: Telok Ayer, Kreta Ayer, Bukit Pasoh and Tanjong Pagar. Together with the other precincts south of the Singapore River, they made up what was known colloquially as the Greater Town (or Da Po) of Singapore. Because of its architectural, historical and social importance, the area was given conservation status on 7 July 1989. Take a walk and learn why this area is cherished by so many Singaporeans! Source: URA Chinatown Trail Brochure 2017 Photos: Pang Ooi Qi CHINATOWN | 5 |

The origin of Chinatown is Sri Mariamman Temple resting under the sun. linked to Sir Stamford Raffles. In 1822, he formed a Town 1. Former Great Southern Hotel Planning Committee to plan 70 Eu Tong Sen Street Singapore Town according This former hotel was designed by to ethnic groups. The area south of the architectural firm Swan & Maclaren Singapore River was allocated by sectors and was once regarded as the Raffles to Chinese and Indian immigrants of Hotel of Chinatown. Popular with high the same provincial origin and language society including celebrities from Hong groups. The Chinese immigrants came Kong and China, it was once the tallest mostly from the south-eastern coastal building in the area and was the first provinces of China. Chinese hotel in Singapore to boast a Hokkiens formed the majority, followed lift service. by the Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese, 2. Former Majestic Theater Hakkas and Foochows. The South 80 Eu Tong Sen Street Indians also found their niche in this This was originally a Cantonese opera area, though subsequently the centre house built by philanthropist Eu Tong of Indian commercial and cultural life Sen in 1927 for his wife after she was moved to Serangoon Road. Each group reportedly refused admittance to has left its mark on street names and an opera performance elsewhere. A places of worship. highlight of this Art Deco building is KRETA AYER The Malay name Kreta Ayer (or Niu Che Shui) comes from the ox-drawn water carts that used to deliver water to the area. In the 19th century, this predominantly Cantonese area was known for round-the-clock entertainment with a concentration of teahouses, opera theatres and brothels. Today it is best known for its Chinese New Year and Mid-Autumn celebrations, street market and bustling atmosphere. Lovely windows with heart-shaped cut outs. | 6 | CHINATOWN

its decorated façade of hand-painted by the Chulias who hailed from southern 6. Former Coolie Quarters tiles depicting opera characters and India’s Coromandel Coast. It boasts an 37 Pagoda Street flying dragons. eclectic mix of Chinese, Anglo-Indian Most coolies came from southern 3. Former S.I.T. Government Quarters and Malay architecture, of which the China in search of better job prospects 42 to 50 Mosque Street, 175 to 189 New most significant feature is its South but upon arrival were sold off as Bridge Road and 38 to 64 Upper Cross Street Indian style front entrance comprising indentured labourers. Those who were The predecessor to the Housing and of two minarets flanking a miniature not immediately auctioned off were kept Development Board was the Singapore palace façade. It was gazetted in 1974 as in cramped and sordid quarters. This Improvement Trust (SIT), set up in 1927 a National Monument. shophouse is believed to be the former by the colonial government to solve 5. Sri Mariamman Temple premises of Kwong Hup Yuen, one of Singapore’s chronic housing problems. 242 South Bridge Road the most infamous coolie firms. These four-storey reinforced concrete Established in 1827, this is Singapore’s 7. Former Lai Chun Yuen buildings were built in the 1930s to house oldest Hindu temple. It was founded 25 Trengganu Street Customs workers. Take a close look at the by Narayana Pillay, the Tamil pioneer Built in 1887, this three-storey timber parapet behind each window; on who accompanied Raffles to Singapore. former theatre building with unique each are two heart-shaped cut outs. The temple is dedicated to the goddess cantilevering wooden balconies was 4. Jamae (Chulia) Mosque Mariamman and the original statue of the centre of entertainment in Kreta Ayer 218 South Bridge Road the deity installed by Pillay still stands until it was badly damaged during World One of the oldest mosques in Singapore, in its principal shrine. This temple gave War II. Its popularity was such that Jamae Mosque was completed in 1835 name to Temple Street and Pagoda surrounding streets were colloquially Street, and was gazetted as a National named after the theatre itself; Smith Monument in 1973. Street was Theater Street, Temple Street was Theater Rear Street, and Trengganu Street was Theater Side Street. “The temple is dedicated to the goddess Mariamman and the original statue of the deity installed by Pillay still stands in its principal shrine.” Road sign that sits opposite the Former Great Southern Hotel. CHINATOWN | 7 |

TELOK AYER where stepping into one, time seems to Telok Ayer, Malay for Water Bay, is the stand still. Some still retain their meeting oldest sub-district. It started to develop halls filled with portraits of members in the 1820s and remained as the key from the past and centuryold furniture. Chinese commercial district until the late Some of these associations can be found 19th century. The population in this area at 17 (Ching Yoon Wooi Kwoon) and 25 was predominantly Hokkien. The area Ann Siang Road (Kwong Wai Siew Li Si is often associated with the laid-back She Shut), and 84 Club Street (Nam Sun atmosphere of Ann Siang Hill, Wui Kun). and the religious buildings along Telok 10. Siang Cho Keong Ayer Street. 66 Amoy Street 8. EU YAN SANG This temple was completed in 1869 and 267 to 271 South Bridge Road built in the Hokkien style, where the ends Built in 1910, this is the first Eu Yan of the curved roof ridge sweeps outwards Sang outlet in Singapore set up by Eu like swallow tails and the clay roof tiles Tong Sen. Besides dealing in the retail of are not glazed. Its foundation plaque traditional Chinese medicine, it used to records that it was located on this site offer money remittance services to China. because of its good feng shui (geomancy) The building was designed by Alfred properties as it used to front the sea and Bidwell from the firm Swan & Maclaren. behind it stands Ann Siang Hill. He was also responsible for the design 11. Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim of the Raffles Hotel and Victoria Heritage Centre Memorial Hall. 140 Telok Ayer Street 9. Clan and Trade Associations Originally known as Shahul Hamid Ann Siang Road and Club Street Durgha and dedicated to the memory of Clan and trade associations were a holy man, Shahul Hamid of Nagore, important institutions for mutual the former shrine was built by Chulias assistance in 19th and early 20th from southern India between 1828 and century Singapore as they helped new 1830. On the upper part of the façade are immigrants from China settle down niches, where oil lamps can be placed and looked after their welfare. Along within them to illuminate the building on Ann Siang Road and Club Street are festive days. It was gazetted as a National numerous clan and trade associations Monument in 1974. Siang Cho Keong Temple which sits in between buildings . | 8 | CHINATOWN

A wishing well located in Thian Hock Keng Temple. “Its foundation plaque records that it 12. Thian Hock Keng was located on this site because of its 158 Telok Ayer Street good feng shui (geomancy) properties This is one of Singapore’s oldest and as it used to front the sea and behind it most important temple for immigrants stands Ann Siang Hill.” from southern China’s Fujian province. Completed in 1842 and standing on what used to be the shoreline, it is dedicated to the worship of Ma Zu Po, the Goddess of the Sea. While most of the building materials came from China, the temple incorporates cast-iron railings from Scotland and tiles from England and Holland. In 1973, it was gazetted as a National Monument. Its restoration in 2001 gained an honorable mention from UNESCO. CHINATOWN | 9 |

| 10 | CHINATOWN Chinese Methodist Church located on Telok Ayer Street.

13. Al-Abrar Mosque 192 Telok Ayer Street Also known as Kuchu Palli, Tamil for Mosque Hut, it was originally a thatched hut believed to have been erected not long after 1827. The present building was built between 1850 and 1855 and declared a National Monument in 1974. Unlike the Jamae Mosque along South Bridge Road, this mosque is able to conform to the street grid while facing Mecca. 14. Telok Ayer Chinese Methodist Church 235 Telok Ayer Street Designed by Swan & Maclaren and built by a French firm, Bross & Mogin in 1924, this was the first Chinese Methodist Church in Singapore. It features upturned roof eaves; a reference to traditional Chinese architecture and the community that it serves. In 1989, the church was gazetted as a National Monument. Exterior of Kong Chow Wui Koon painted with three colours. BUKIT PASOH 16. Sri Layan Sithi Vinayagar Temple “During the Japanese Bukit Pasoh was developed at the turn 73 Keong Saik Road Occupation, the of the 20th century as an extension of the This Hindu temple was built in 1925 custodians volunteered already densely populated Telok Ayer by Nattukkottai Chettiars, a noted the building as a and Kreta Ayer areas. Its name means Pot money lending community from Tamil clinic and hence Hill in Malay, referring to its origins as Nadu and dedicated to Ganesha, the its antique interiors a place where earthen pots were made. elephantheaded god. It is an important remained intact.” Its charm lies in its gently sloping and stop for the annual Silver Chariot curving streets fronted by shophouses Procession where the deity Murugan that house a mixture of institutional and is taken on a procession from the Sri commercial activities. Thendayuthapani Temple in Tank Road. 15. Poon Yue Association The temple was given the name Layan 281 New Bridge Road Sithi as it was originally located at the The association was founded in 1879 old Sepoy Lines where Indian soldiers, at Upper Cross Street with financial known as Sepoys, used to be housed. assistance from Hoo Ah Kay, a well 17. Kong Chow Wui Koon known community leader from 321 New Bridge Road Whampoa district in Guangdong This Cantonese clan association was province. The association relocated to established in 1839 at Upper Chin Chew New Bridge Road in 1917. The building Street and moved in 1924 to the present is a hybrid of Neo-Classical and Art Deco building, designed by Westerhout & styles which were popular with Chinese Oman. During the Japanese Occupation, developers in the past who wanted to the custodians volunteered the building project a modern image. To the Chinese, as a clinic and hence its antique interiors New Bridge Road was colloquially remained intact. The association is well referred to as Da Po Er Ma Lu, Mandarin known for its lion dance troupe and for Greater Town’s Second Road. The martial arts. This is one of Chinatown’s first road referred to in this instance was first community museums and entry South Bridge Road. is free. A peek of Kong Chow Wui Koon. CHINATOWN | 11 |

20. Chin Kang Huay Kuan 29 Bukit Pasoh Road This association was established in 1918 by immigrants from Jinjiang County in southern Fujian, China. The current building contrasts with its ornately decorated neighbours. The use of straight lines, concrete ledges and mild steel framed windows is typical of the Modern style that was popular from the 1950s to the early 1970s. During World War II, the building was used by the Overseas Chinese General Mobilisation Council which helped the British in supplying labourers and volunteers for the defence of Singapore. Ee Hoe Hean Club resting in between buildings. 18. Cundhi Gong 13 Keong Saik Road This was founded in 1928 for the worship of the 18-arm Cundhi Bodhisattva. It is a purpose-built temple built in the Nanyang style which is a hybrid between Chinese and shophouse architecture. On the roof ridge, cut porcelain pieces are used to form dragons, phoenixes, birds and flowers. The timber trusses over the five-foot way feature traditional paintings and its exterior walls are adorned with hand-painted tiles. 19. Ee Hoe Hean Club 43 Bukit Pasoh Road The club was founded in 1895 by a group of Hokkien community leaders for the wealthy Chinese elite. More than a social and business club, its members were actively involved in the political development of China in the early 20th century. It supported the 1911 Xinhai Revolution which overthrew the Qing Dynasty, leading to the establishment of the Republic of China. During World War II, it was the headquarters of the anti-Japanese China Salvation Movement in Southeast Asia. The ground floor Pioneers’ Gallery is open for visit and entry is free. | 12 | CHINATOWN

“The use of straight TANGJONG PAGAR 22. Former Jing Hwa Cinema lines, concrete ledges 21. Jinrikisha Station 1 Tanjong Pagar Road and mild steel framed 1 Neil Road Together with the Majestic and the windows is typical of the The building was built in 1903 by the Oriental, Jing Hwa Cinema, built in Modern style that was Municipal Council as the administration 1958, was one of Chinatown’s three popular from the 1950s centre for rickshaws, a form of famous cinemas. It was designed by local to the early 1970s.” transportation imported from Japan architect Wong Foo Nam in the Modern via Shanghai in the 1880s. It is of the style and was the first to have a basement Edwardian style, where the exposed carpark and extensive floor-to-ceiling brickwork is contrasted with white windows. It is remembered fondly by plaster mouldings. Look out for the crest many as the venue of romantic first dates of the Municipal Council at the front of and holiday treats. the building, featuring a lion standing on an island with a palm tree. Jinrikisha Station located in Tanjong Pagar in the Chinatown district. CHINATOWN | 13 |

ThatLHTohseaGtSslanmhIt’sitne | 14 | KAMPONG GLAM

Delicate handmade lamps from Arab Street. The story of Kampong Glam began in 1819 when Sir Stamford Raffles (1781–1826) established a treaty between the British East India Company, Temenggong Abdul Rahman (d. 1825) and Sultan Hussein (1776–1835) to set up a trading post in Singapore. Source: NHB Kampong Glam Trail 3 Brochure Photos: Pang Ooi Qi KAMPONG GLAM | 15 |

Did you know that the stretch These are just some of the stories behind of Bussorah Street near Kampong Glam’s streets and lanes. Masjid Sultan was once Steeped in history, culture and memories, known as Kampong Kaji Kampong Glam is one of Singapore’s (Pilgrim Village) and the most colourful districts. It was where the stretch nearer Beach Road was Kampong Malay royalty once resided, and where Tembaga (Copper Village)? Or that Arab one of the most significant and important Street was called Jawa Koi (Java Street) mosques in the country, Masjid Sultan, by the Chinese and Pookadai sadakku is located. It was where many diverse (flower street) by the Tamils? Sultan communities, such as the Javanese, Gate was lined with blacksmiths and Sumatrans, Baweanese, Banjarese, Baghdad Street with diamond craftsmen Arabs, Chinese and Indians once called and traders. Where a car park now stands home. Though Kampong Glam is no along Kandahar Street, there was the longer a residential area today, these Pondok Java which housed Javanese communities have left their mark in migrants and was famed for the Javanese different ways, from the buildings in theatre and arts performances it used the area and long-time businesses to to host. vernacular place names. “It was where many diverse communities, such as the Javanese, Sumatrans, Baweanese, Banjarese, Arabs, Chinese and Indians once called home.” Masjid Sultan resting under the sun. | 16 | KAMPONG GLAM

MALAY HERITAGE CENTRE A sunny day at Malay Heritage Centre. 85 Sultan Gate The building housing the centre was Logo with the traditional game, ‘gasing’. once the residence of Malay royalty in KAMPONG GLAM | 17 | Singapore and also referred to as “Istana Kampong Gelam” (Kampong Gelam Palace). It was preceded by at least two istana buildings which were part of a larger walled compound that has been referred to as the kota raja (royal citadel). The first istana in the compound, a large timber palace with attap roofs, was completed in 1819. Sultan Hussein stayed there for some years before moving to Melaka, where he passed away in 1835. His son, Tunku Ali (1825–1877) returned to Singapore in 1840 and commissioned the current building, which combines traditional Malay motifs with the Palladian style – a style derived from the architecture of Italian architect Andrea Palladio (1508-1580) which was popular in England in the 18th and 19th centuries.

For years, the British refused to Stairs in Malay Heritage Centre. acknowledge Tunku Ali as sultan. In 1855, the Governor of the Straits Films found in Malay Heritage Centre. Settlements William Butterworth (1801– In 1999, the government announced 1856) negotiated a treaty between plans to develop a Malay Heritage Tunku Ali and Ibrahim (d. 1865), son Centre, which would involve conserving of the late Temenggong. Ali acquired and redeveloping Istana Kampong the title of Sultan and received a fixed Glam and the adjacent Gedung Kuning. allowance from the government, This required the residents to relocate while acknowledging Ibrahim as the and a new scheme of payment to the ruler of Johor with the exception of beneficiaries was introduced. Restoration Muar. When Sultan Ali passed away works were undertaken and the Malay in 1877, his eldest son, Tungku Alam Heritage Centre opened in June 2005. (d. 1891), was not recognised by the Further renovations were carried British as Sultan. However, the Malay out between 2011 and 2012 and the community organised a ceremony in 1879 redeveloped centre was launched in proclaiming him as “Sultan Ala’u’din September 2012 by the Prime Minister of Alam Shah al Mulak (Ruler of) Johore Singapore, Mr Lee Hsien Loong. and Muar”. In 1897, the court decided in a dispute between members of the royal family that the Kampong Glam property belonged to the Crown. An ordinance was then enacted by the British government in 1904 to provide an incomefor Sultan Hussein’s descendants. The building continued to serve as a residence for the family. For a period of time during the 20th century, it even housed a club, Kota Raja Club, which regularly organised leisure activities for the community in Kampong Glam. “An ordinance was then enacted by the British government in 1904 to provide an incomefor Sultan Hussein’s descendants.” Historical relic found in Malay Heritage Centre. | 18 | KAMPONG GLAM

Bookstore located near Masjid Sultan. Delicate fabric found along Arab Street. Wide array of fabric with patterns. ARAB STREET Arab Street is one of the few streets in descendants of pioneers who came here Kampong Glam that has retained its decades ago. original name from the early 1800s. It was To locals, this road was more commonly probably named as such as the area was referred to as Kampong Java by the designated for the Arab community in Malays or Jawa koi (Java Street) by the the 1822 town plan of Singapore. Chinese. For a long time, Arab Street The community here, however, has was largely populated by the Javanese. always been diverse. A busy commercial They were engaged in various area, Arab Street has been attracting occupations such as running eating traders and entrepreneurs from places houses and food stalls, and selling goods such as present-day Indonesia, India, such as fruit and Javanese leaf cigarettes. China and the Middle East since its Javanese women also set up stalls to sell early days. They started businesses flowers along the five foot way, giving ranging from eating houses, rattan rise to the Tamil nickname, pookadei shops and goldsmiths to textile shops, sadakku (flower street). Over time, money changers, bookshops and however, the Javanese presence gradually printing presses. Today, a number of diminished in this area due to factors shops on this street, such as H. Hashim such as the redevelopment of Kampong bin H. Abdullah, a bookstore opened Glam, leading to resettlement of the in the early 1900s, are still run by the original residents. KAMPONG GLAM | 19 |

LTBTirgiahtAinrtldisllelsI: ndia! | 20 | LITTLE INDIA

A shop which sits along the street of Little India. The distinctive Little India precinct melds the old with the new, hosting trades from the past beside modern businesses, old conserved shophouses next to high rise buildings. In this precinct, you can find flower garland vendors next to restaurants serving both traditional and fusion meals, small traditional businesses alongside multi-storey departmental stores. And these are just some ways in which the precinct retains aspects of its history within today’s modern context. Source: NHB Little India Trail Booklet 2018 Photos: Pang Ooi Qi LITTLE INDIA | 21 |

It is interesting to note that Little India was never designated by Sir Stamford Raffles as an area for the Indian community. This is unlike Chinatown or Kampong Gelam, which were designated for the Chinese and the Malays respectively in the Raffles Town Plan of 1823. Before Little India got its current name in the 1970s-80s, it was just known as Serangoon, after one of the earliest roads in Singapore and indicated as the “road leading across the island” on an 1828 map. Through the Little India Heritage Trail, discover how this once swampy, rural area transformed itself into the colourful and culturally diverse precinct of today. This self-guided trail consists of a Trail Booklet, a Trail Map and onsite Trail Markers. The Trail Booklet provides a history of the area, as well as information about the places of heritage, social and cultural interest. The accompanying Trail Map offers three thematic sub-trails with translations in Mandarin, Malay and Tamil while the Trail Markers showcase old photographs of the site along with further information. We hope you enjoy your journey! “The church was established in 1897 as a Christian mission for working class immigrants from Foochow, China, such as rickshaw pullers and coolies.” TRAIL 1: SERANGOON IN THE 1900s 40 Minutes The early 20th century was a defining period that shaped today’s Little India as migrants from India, China and Britain settled in the area and established a diversity of trades and institutions. Follow this trail and explore the rich history of the Little India precinct. Begin your journey at the Indian Heritage Centre and obtain an overview of the history of the Indian community in Singapore. Then walk down Serangoon Road and cross over to Kerbau Road, whose name refers to the buffaloes that were kept here in the 1900s. Walking along this road, you will come across the colourful Former House of Tan Teng Niah. The only remaining Chinese Mural located at Bebilios Lane. | 22 | LITTLE INDIA

Former House of Tan Teng Niah resting in the sun. villa in Little India, this is a legacy of and economic support for Chinese Along Hampshire Road beside the field, the time when small Chinese cottage immigrants from the same clans. Turn you will see the Former Kandang Kerbau industries thrived alongside the Indian- left onto Race Course Road and you will Hospital (now the Land Transport dominated cattle trade in this area. come across the Foochow Methodist Authority building) which served as Turn around and walk towards Belilios Church at the corner of Rotan Lane. general hospital in the 1900s. In the Lane where you will spot the large The church was established in 1897 as background, you can also spot the mural Traditional Trades of Little a Christian mission for working class distinctive shape of the new KK Women’s India by Psyfool. Continue towards immigrants from Foochow, China, such and Children’s Hospital building. Belilios Road and turn right to the Sri as rickshaw pullers and coolies. If you are hungry or wish to rest your Veeramakaliamman Temple which was Continuing along Race Course Road, feet, walk straight down to Tekka Centre, built as a shrine by Tamil workers from keep a lookout on the left for a small which is the new incarnation of the Tekka the lime pits in this area. From here, turn unnamed street where you will encounter Market that was once located across left onto Serangoon Road and left again the origins of this road name in the form the road and considered the “people’s onto Race Course Lane. of a mural entitled A Ride Through Race market”. Here you can enjoy local At Race Course Lane, you will encounter Course Road by Jaxton Su. The Former hawker fare, or purchase fresh meat to a number of Chinese Clan Associations Racecourse was at the location of the cook at home. Then it’s a short walk to which were established to provide social current Farrer Park Field just opposite. Little India MRT station for a ride home. LITTLE INDIA | 23 |

One of the oldest temples in Singapore, the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple. TRAIL 2: WALK OF FAITHS Kapor Road. Here you will see the Along the same road, you will encounter 1 Hour architecturally different Kampong Kapor yet another National Monument, the The Little India precinct contains a Methodist Church which started around Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, with its great number and diversity of religious the same time but catered to the Straits intricately carved gopuram (entrance spaces. These institutions span across Chinese or Peranakans. tower) depicting a story from Hindu all the major ethnic and religious Walk up Veerasamy Road and mythology. Further down the road is groups in Singapore. This trail provides across Serangoon Road to the Sri the Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple insights into different religious spaces, Veeramakaliamman Temple which was with its stepped vimana (pyramid-shape architecture and practices found originally built as a shrine by Tamil tower over the main shrine) adorned in Singapore. (Note: Most of these workers from the lime pits in this area. with Hindu deities. institutions are open to the public but Another Hindu temple and the only Next head up Beatty Road on to Race be sure to follow any instructions on North Indian temple in Singapore, the Course Road to view two Buddhist appropriate behaviour and clothing.) Shree Lakshminarayan Temple is located temples built in a completely different Start off at the beautiful Abdul Gafoor down the next street at Chander Road. style. The Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Mosque at Dunlop Street which is one Then venture up Rotan Lane to view Temple, popularly known as the of Singapore’s oldest mosques and a the Foochow Methodist Church which “Temple of a Thousand Lights”, houses National Monument. You may wish to developed from a mission started in a monumental 15-metre tall Buddha enter the mosque for a visit and if so, do 1897 for working class immigrants from statue while the Leong San See Temple, remember to dress respectfully and take Foochow, China. After this, walk back meaning “Dragon Mountain Temple”, off your shoes. down to Serangoon Road and head is dedicated to Guan Yin, the Goddess From here, head down Perak Road to the towards the Angullia Mosque to take of Mercy. Anglican Church of the True Light which a look at its conserved 19th century catered mainly to Chinese trishaw riders entrance gatehouse. during its beginnings. At the end of Perak Road, turn left onto Upper Weld Road and then right to Kampong | 24 | LITTLE INDIA

Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple located opposite Leong San See Temple. “Another Hindu temple and the only North Indian temple in Singapore, the Shree Lakshminarayan Temple is located down the next street at Chander Road.” Sri Vadapathira Kaliamman Temple located along Serangoon Road. LITTLE INDIA | 25 |

Little India Arcade located along Serangoon Road. A lady choosing fabric in Haniffa Textiles. Traditional sweets and snacks. | 26 | LITTLE INDIA

TRAIL 3: SHOP TILL YOU DROP! 30 Minutes (not inclusive of shopping time) Little India is home to many traditional fast-food restaurant established in 1947. businesses that offer experiences that Try their refreshing lassi or have a meal cannot be found elsewhere in Singapore. here if you’re hungry! This trail offers a chance to try authentic After your break, walk down the five-foot Indian food, purchase traditional clothing way (or covered pedestrian walkway) and hunt for bargains at various shops in along Serangoon Road and enjoy a this area. variety of traditional and modern shops Start along Campbell Lane and selling everything from clothes to knick- experience the kaleidoscope of sights, knacks. Feel free to stop and pick up a sounds and smells along this street. You bargain or just window-shop along can visit the Little India Arcade and enjoy this stretch. some Indian sweets or have a henna Ahead you will see the expansive design drawn on your hands. Or you can Mustafa Centre, Singapore’s first 24-hour head to the Jothi Store & Flower Shop department store which offers everything where locals shop for everyday Indian from diamonds, watches, electronics, goods ranging from incense sticks to clothing, confectionery and fresh foods. copper utensils. Shop to your heart’s content here, and One street down at Dunlop Street is when you start to feel tired, head across Haniffa Textiles which is famous for its the road to Ananda Bhavan, Singapore’s saris and Indian clothing, and further oldest Indian vegetarian restaurant, for a down Serangoon Road is where you will snack or meal. find Komala Vilas, an Indian vegetarian “Feel free to stop and pick up a bargain or just window-shop along this stretch.” Signage of Komala Vilas Restaurant. LITTLE INDIA | 27 |

MTohPdeaesrtn | 28 | THE MODERN PAST

Lucky knots sold along Pagoda Street. Singapore is a melting pot of cultures. Despite her cosmopolitan status, many heritage trails reveal that traditional crafts and products of these cultures are aplenty in her midst. Visual influences from the diverse heritage co-exist bountifully and they give the place an unique blend which is hard to be expressed in words. See them for yourself! Photos: Pang Ooi Qi THE MODERN PAST | 29 |

THE MOD Handmade flower garlands. A man who sews along the street of Little India. Colourful bangles found in Little India Arcade. Wide array of patterned fabric available at Kampong Glam. | 30 | THE MODERN PAST

DERN PAST Traditional Turkish handpainted porcelain wares. Ceiling lights with mask-changing design. A cobbler who mends near People’s Park Centre. Small figurines of Laughing Buddha. THE MODERN PAST | 31 |

Pang Ooi Qi 2005883 DXCD/FT/1B/04