Elle Decor

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On his mother’s bucolic estate north of Rome, Filippo Chia transforms an abandoned farmhouse and tower into his own striking retreat. PHOTOGRAPHS BY SIMON WATSON The vast gardens at OPPOSITE: Igliori’s son, Villa Lina, Paola Igliori’s Filippo Chia, restored the estate near Ronciglione, Torre del Falco, a farm- Italy, include tall house and tower on the cypresses and a 1930s property, with his mother waterfall fountain by and architect Pietro Belei. Raffaele de Vico. For details, see Resources. E L L E D E C O R 91

he story of Torre del Falco—the Tower the estate into a country retreat, where she welcomes trav- of the Falcon—begins in Italy’s hilly elers interested in discovering the treasures of the region. Tuscia region north of Rome. There, on the outskirts of the town of Roncigli- But while she restored and decorated most of the build- one, Paola Igliori returned some years ings on the property, she did leave one structure untouched: ago to her family’s estate, Villa Lina, a Torre del Falco, a crumbling 19th-century farmhouse built sprawling and picturesque property around an ancient tower. That is, until it became the dream surrounded by the Cimini, a range of volcanic mountains. project of her son, Filippo Chia (who is my stepson). Igliori, a writer and filmmaker who had been living in New York City, inherited a 1920s villa, built on the remains of In 2004, Chia was 21 and studying photography at one erected more than two centuries earlier; an 18th- New York University. He returned that summer to Italy, century botanical garden; and a symbolic landscape created where, as usual, he shuttled between his mother’s Villa Lina in the 1930s by the noted architect Raffaele de Vico. She and Castello Romitorio, the vineyard near Montalcino, Tus- now lives there full-time and has spent years transforming cany, where his father, artist Sandro Chia, is based. While visiting his mother, he ventured out to explore the old farm- house and tower, which had been uninhabited since the 1950s and was on an isolated part of the property in the midst of a hazelnut forest. “I used to play here with my friends as a child,” says Chia, now the CEO of the Castello Romitorio winery. Covered in brambles, its roof collapsed, it was a mysterious place, even a little eerie. And yet its interiors still showed traces of the original pastel-colored paint—all shades of green, blue, and purple—that had adorned its walls. That summer, exploring once again those remains from a long-lost past ignited in him a fervent desire to salvage the building. Back in New York, Chia supervised the plans sent to him by Igliori and Pietro Belei, the architect in charge of rebuild- ing the farmhouse. With the help of old photographs, they re-created the volume of the main house, the old tower, and an adjacent small pavilion. Restoration of the interiors began as soon as he returned to Italy the following summer. “The idea was to create a place that was in the same eclectic spirit as the other houses on the property,” he says. Inspiration was found in the genius loci of this region, known for both the elegance of its Renaissance villas and the rough-hewn farmhouses that date back to medieval times. At Torre del Falco, for example, the facade was covered LEFT: Chia collects antique OPPOSITE: The kitchen tiles and used them in the has a border in hand- restoration, from the painted Neapolitan terra-cotta ones laid in maiolica tile. a checkerboard pattern in the living room to the Neapolitan Riggiole tile in the entry (right). 92 E L L E D E C O R



in a stone-colored plaster finish reminiscent of the exteriors of the Villa Lante della Rovere in the nearby village of Bagnaia—a Renaissance gem that once belonged to the family of Igliori’s mother, Angela Lante Montefeltro della Rovere. In the main living room on the ground f loor, he inserted a pattern of triangular pigeonholes, a characteristic feature of rural architecture in the area. Chia also looked southward, to Naples and the island of Capri, where he and Igliori are part owners of Villa Quattro Venti, the historic palatial home built in the early 1900s by the American symbolist painter and poet Elihu Vedder. When sections of that house were sold off, Chia—who collects 18th- and 19th-century maiolica—salvaged the hand-painted tiles for his kitchen and bathrooms. The minimalist open staircase at Torre del Falco also pays homage to a different Capri monument: the modernist Villa Malaparte. Another of Chia’s passions, Roman archae- ology, found its way into the ground-floor library, where a bookshelf was built around a huge Etruscan-style vase, and wall murals pay tribute to Pompeii and Herculaneum. The house is filled with art by friends, such as Lola Schnabel, whose engraved print hangs in the living room. Another acquaintance, Giorgio Franchetti, the late civil engineer and art collector, taught Chia the ancient Roman method for laying terra-cotta floors, in which tiles are placed in a checkerboard pattern and the seams are filled with a mixture of marble dust, white cement, and water. There is a genre in Italian Renaissance and Baroque architecture known as capriccio, called a folly in English. Buildings and interiors of this kind were inspired more by a need for creative expression than for practical reasons; these whimsical structures are often motivated by a desire to rekindle long-lost worlds through design and decoration. Torre del Falco is Chia’s own poetic construct—a folly, and a home, that is both experimental and timeless. ◾ ABOVE LEFT: To paint the LEFT: Inspired by ancient library’s vintage console, Rome, the guest bathroom Chia used a cement-based has an 18th-century formula that was given to Murano mirror and him by the artist Cy 19th-century Riggiole tile. Twombly. 1890s Murano chandelier; decorative wall and ceiling treatments by Marina Moscetti.

A guest bedroom’s plaster walls are tinted in natural Verde Veronese pigment. Vintage 1920s sofa; 1820s armoire in Roman walnut; 19th-century French cocktail table; curtains of a striped Cesari silk. E L L E D E C O R 95

A saffron-yellow cast-iron staircase by Fonderia Carnevale leads from the second to the top floor. OPPOSITE: A guest room has a Louis XV caned bed and a 19th-century faux-marble nightstand. Stucco walls in natural ocher; 19th-century Neapolitan tile hand- painted to mimic parquet flooring.

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Native scrub plants, including many varieties of cacti, surround the stark architecture of a concrete home that Jenny and Jonny Graham designed in north- western Argentina. OPPOSITE: In the living room, the vintage fiber- glass chair is from Spitalfields Market in London, and the cocktail table on wheels was designed by Jonny. Artworks by Mariano Cornejo. For details, see Resources. In Argentina, a wild hilltop with views of the Andes becomes a creative canvas for a London landscape designer. MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE

he northwestern Argentine province of Salta architecture by employing natural materials and a subdued offers a dramatic landscape where the impos- color palette. But Graham took a different route: The main ing peaks of the Andes mountains frame home’s front doors are painted in bold hues of blue as well Spanish Colonial architecture. Here, the farm as in orange, her favorite color. The juxtaposition stands in where landscape designer Jenny Graham pleasant tension with the enveloping wilderness that meets spent her childhood later became the same the facade. place she and her husband, Jonny, a commodi- ties broker, chose to settle after three decades Built in concrete block, the house was intended to feel of living in London. not just connected to but inextricably linked with the land- scape in all its scales: the surrounding greenery so close to Though the vast terrain of the farm the ground floor that one can make out all its details; the encapsulates areas for crops and cattle, it con- wide vistas of the mountains and sky framed by the sists primarily of the sort of untouched nature that upstairs windows. And so, the project functions almost as characterizes the region—low scrub vegetation and the an allegory of our contemporary condition—the encounter surfeit of wildlife it attracts. “I believe the landscape should between the artificial and the natural realms, a struggle in dictate what the architecture becomes,” says Jenny Graham which one suspects and, perhaps unwittingly, even hopes of the site they selected for the home they designed. “We the latter will emerge victorious. found a little barren zone on a hill where there wasn’t much wilderness to remove, and then the project just emerged.” For any landscape designer, including Graham, the The ample one-bedroom residence, organized around decision to leave a terrain largely intact is an intentional an interior patio, is a contemporary take on the traditional one. “I did add some aloe plants and some agaves that are typology of local farmhouses, with a nearby guest cottage kind of scattered around,” she says of her subtle domestica- featuring the same dimensions as the courtyard, as if tions. “I opened up, ever so slightly, a few views to the hills. extruded from the main volume. With a landscape so But primarily, it is wilderness all around.” untamed, there is often a desire to mimic nature in the In tune with the running theme of dichotomy, the sleek Jenny Graham interiors are a different story altogether—polished concrete with a vintage arm- floors, details in chrome and aluminum, and pristine white walls contrast the occasional and vividly colored objects chair in orange, and artworks. One painting, Graham’s own, stands out—an her favorite color. orange crescentoid, one of the study drawings for a sculp- ture she made while living in London. Otherwise, the rooms are airy and minimal. Early on, the owners decided to embrace their large, fairly empty spaces. “When we were designing, many people asked, ‘How are you ever going to fill this up?’ ” recalls Graham. “I said, ‘I’m never going to!’” The couple’s days begin early, with the sun’s rise flood- ing their rooms with light. Leisurely breakfasts prepared in the vast kitchen are enjoyed in the even vaster dining area. Later, meandering walks through the farm in the company of Dulce and Rosa, their two dogs, are a fixture of their afternoons, which are otherwise spent working or painting in the studio, picking and arranging flowers, and conduct- ing art workshops with the children who live on the farm. But Graham’s favorite activity is one in which the landscape is once again the protagonist. “Depending on the time of day, there are shadows of the trees being cast on the walls, changing all day long,” she says. “You’re always aware of the weather here, of what the sun and moon are doing.” Hearing her say this, one under- stands her decision to leave most walls bare; her house is a stage upon which nature is projected. For someone who traded the buzzing streets of London for a slice of wilder- ness, this daily spectacle is surely worth making room for. ◾

The kitchen’s comple- mentary color scheme includes an aluminum door painted orange and Formica cabinetry in a custom cobalt. Dividing wall and floors in poured concrete; counters in polished cement with stone insets. E L L E D E C O R 101

“I believe the landscape should dictate what the architecture becomes.” —JENNY GRAHAM 102 E L L E D E C O R

The antique enameled cast-iron tub in the primary bath came from Graham’s childhood farmhouse in Argentina. OPPOSITE, LEFT: A pair of puppy toys by Eero Aarnio for Magis perch on the folded sheet metal staircase. Artwork by Graham’s brother, James Leach. OPPOSITE, RIGHT: With no heating in the house, the bedroom’s wood- burning fireplace comes in handy in the chilly winters. Custom bed and artwork above mantel by Graham.

RESOURCES Items pictured but not listed are Jasper Morrison bowls and tum- Tapioca Wirkkala highball STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, from private collections. blers: Iittala, iittala.com. Sweater: glasses: Iittala. Sweater and MANAGEMENT & CIRCULATION Sacai, sacai.jp. Dress: Brooks hat: Closed, closed.com. Polo: FRENCH EVOLUTION Brothers, brooksbrothers.com. Lacoste, lacoste.com. Shorts: 1. Publication Title: ELLE DECOR Bracelet: Tiffany & Co. Earrings: Ralph Lauren, ralphlauren.com. Interior design: Rena Dumas Laruicci. Sunglasses: Tory Burch, Shoes: Lacoste. Sweater: Brooks 2. Publication Number: 0005-5830 Architecture Intérieure, rdai.fr. toryburch.com. Shoes: Sperry, Brothers. Polo and shoes: Lacoste. PAGE 42: Wall upholstery: sperry.com. Sweater and pull- Shorts: Lululemon, lululemon 3. Filing Date: October 1, 2022 Grethe Sorensen, grethesorensen over: Dior, dior.com. Polo: Tod’s, .com. PAGE 65: Suit: Lapointe, .dk. PAGE 44: Floor lamp: Egg tods.com. Pants: Brooks Brothers. shoplapointe.com. Shoes: Tory 4. Issue Frequency: Monthly; except combined issues in Dec/Jan/Feb and Collective, eggcollective.com. Shoes: Sperry. Sunglasses: Ray- Burch. Earrings: Jennifer Behr, Jun/Jul/Aug Ban, ray-ban.com. Jacket, shirt, jenniferbehr.com. Ring: Swarovski, FURNITURE FANTASY pants, and shoes: Armani, armani swarovski.com. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 8 .com. Sunglasses: Chloé, chloe PAGE 62: Dress: Markarian, .com. Jacket and shirt: Officine HERE TO STAY 6. Annual Subscription Price: $15.00 markarian-nyc.com. Earrings: Generale, officinegenerale.com. Adeam, adeam.com. Dress: Oscar Pants: Brooks Brothers. Scarf: Architecture: Diego Villaseñor, 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: de la Renta, oscardelarenta.com. Kenzo, kenzo.com. Shoes: Sperry. dva.com.mx. 300 West 57th St., New York, NY 10019 Earrings: Laruicci, laruicci.com. Sunglasses: Ray-Ban. PAGE 64: PAGE 70: Skirt: Marco de Bracelet: Kate Spade, katespade Vincenzo, marcodevincenzo.com. 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office .com. Ring: Tiffany & Co., tiffany Shirt: Etro, etro.com. Belt bag: of Publisher: 300 West 57th St., New York, NY 10019 .com. Shoes: Manolo Blahnik, Perrin Paris, perrinparis.com. manoloblahnik.com. PAGE 63: Car: Volkswagen, vw.com. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, PAGE 71: Wall art: Marie Khouri, and Managing Editor: A quiet corner at mariekhouri.com. Sculpture: Publisher: Jennifer Levene Bruno, 300 West 57th St., New York, NY 10019 Villa Lina, Paola Lordag & Sondag, lordagsondag Igliori and Filippo .com. PAGE 73: Console table: Editor: Asad Syrkett, 300 West 57th St., New York, NY 10019 Chia’s estate north Mario Lopez Torres, mariolopez of Rome (page 90). torres.com. PAGE 74: Resin table- Managing Editor: Jeffrey Bauman, 300 West 57th St., New York, NY 10019 top: Monica Calderon, monica calderon.net. Chair upholstery: 10. Owner: Hearst Magazine Media, Inc., Perrin Paris. PAGE 75: Chairs: 300 West 57th St., New York, NY 10019 Marilo Carral, marilocarral.art. Stockholder of Hearst Magazine Media, Inc., is: Hearst Communications, Inc., 300 West 57th St., New York, NY 10019 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgagees, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None. 12. Tax Status: Not applicable. 13. Publication Title: ELLE DECOR 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data: September 2022 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average No. No. Copies of Copies Each Single Issue Issue During Published Preceding Nearest to 12 Months: Filing Date: a. Total no. of copies (net press run): 491,901 452,535 TO INFINITY b. 1. Mailed outside-county paid 354,980 328,676 subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541 Architecture: Studio Seilern (include paid distribution above Architects, studioseilern.com. nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies, PAGE 81: Dining table: Thomas and exchange copies): Lemut, thomaslemut.com. Chairs: Carl Hansen, carlhansen.com. 2. Mailed in-county paid subscriptions n/a n/a Backsplash: Delta Marble, delta stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid marble.com. Cocktail table: Delta distribution above nominal rate, Marble. Rug: The Rug Company, advertiser’s proof copies, and exchange therugcompany.com. PAGE 82: copies): Chair: Carl Hansen. 3. Paid distribution outside the mails 20,982 17,200 including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS®: 4. Paid distribution by other classes HOUSE OF THE FALCON of mail through the USPS® PAGE 90: Interior design: Paola (e.g., First-Class Mail): n/a n/a Igliori and Filippo Chia, relaisvilla lina.com. c. Total paid distribution [sum 375,962 345,876 of 15b (1), (2), (3), and (4)]: TIERRA INCO´GNITA d. 1. Free or nominal rate outside-county 67,319 84,999 PAGE 102: Puppy toys: Eero copies included on PS Form 3541: Aarnio, eeroaarnio.com. 2. Free or nominal rate in-county copies n/a n/a included on PS Form 3541: 3. Free or nominal rate copies mailed n/a n/a at other classes through the USPS® (e.g., First-Class Mail): 4. Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers or other means): 11,969 11,872 CORRECTION SIMON WATSON e. Total free or nominal rate distribution 79,288 96,871 [sum of 15d (1), (2), (3), and (4)]: In the story “Chuffed to Bits” in our November issue, the maker f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 455,250 442,747 of the outdoor furniture shown on page 80 was misidentified. g. Copies not distributed: 36,651 9,787 The furniture is by Munder Skiles. h. Total (sum of 15f and 15g): 491,901 452,535 ELLE DECOR (ISSN 1046-1957) Volume 34, Number 1, Winter 2023, is published monthly except for combined issues in December/ January/February and June/July/August, by Hearst, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 U.S.A. Steven R. Swartz, President & Chief i. Percent paid (15c divided by 15f times 100) 82.58% 78.12% Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Mark E. Aldam, Chief Operating Officer. Hearst Magazine Media, Inc.: Debi Chirichella, President; Kate Lewis, Chief Content Officer; Regina Buckley, Chief Financial and Strategy 16. a. Requested and paid electronic copies 55,075 58,400 Officer & Treasurer; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. © 2022 by Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. 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POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to ELLE DECOR, P.O. Box 6000, Harlan, IA 51593. Printed in the U.S.A. If the publication is a general publication, publication of this statement is required. Will be printed in the Winter 2023 issue of this publication. 18. Signature and Title of Publisher I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties). Jennifer Levene Bruno Publisher 104 E L L E D E C O R

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MY KIND OF ROOM The living room at the Neutra VDL Studio, a landmark house museum in Los Angeles. SUCH GREAT “I WAS WORKING WITH THE ARTIST XAVIER VEILHAN AND THE LATE ELIZABETH CARABABAS HEIGHTS architect Francois Perrin on the first edition of ‘Architectones’ [a series Architect Germane Barnes of interventions] during the summer of 2012. We made these finds inspiration in the site-specific installations for each room at the Neutra VDL house, which precision and privacy of is beautifully situated in Silver Lake overlooking the city of Los Angeles. As you enter, the first thing you see is this cool staircase that feels like Richard Neutra’s VDL Studio. it’s floating. When you walk upstairs, you immediately come into the living room, which is odd because that’s usually on the ground floor. 108 E L L E D E C O R The space is extremely intimate. The room teaches you that it’s fine to separate the public and the private and that a house is about different experiences. The work I did there absolutely shaped my practice—the level of consideration given to every detail and the atten- tion paid to everything from the built-in furnishings to the material choices influence what I make now.” —As told to Camille Okhio

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