top for ironing. Make sure that the front is laying flat,without any wrinkles. Press and iron the back withouttouching the sides. This method of ironing ensures that the waist is pressedand ironed without any creases. Note that when the pantsare worn they must fit the body without any creases onthe hips and the sides. If there is a form finisher, the pantsare attached to the waist clamp and the machine is oper-ated to pass hot air and steam at controlled pressure toiron the garment all at once, without wrinkles. After the waist is ironed on front and back, lift the pantsand wear one leg onto the leg buck. The hem of the leg isnarrow side and the waist side remains on the broad sideof the buck. Press and iron the leg from hip to the hem.Do not let the iron go to the edge of the hip because this will forman unwanted crease. Rotate the leg over the buck so that the inseamis pressed. Repeat the procedure with the other leg. Formal pants need a crease below the hips and hence after iron-ing the legs, place the pants with one leg over the other. Inseamsand outer seams of both legs must be on top of the other. The legsare then pressed from hip to hem on either side, forming a backcrease. Now run the iron on the front side from the end place of the side pocketbag to the hem. The front crease is formed. In case of flat-pressed pants, creases are not required. The pants are placedfrom waist to hem on the table front on top and pressed and ironed. Turn thepants over and press the backside. Repeat the process for the other leg. Note thatthe ironing is from waist to hem and makes the garment appear flat.Ironing JacketIn case of a blazer or jacket, first iron theshoulder. There is a shoulder buck onwhich you will wear the sleeve shoul-der. Gently iron over the shoulder. Movethe iron with a circular movement. Thenwear the sleeve on the sleeve buck. Gen-tly iron and press the sleeve on one side. Then rotate and iron onthe other side. Next, iron the fronts one after another. Iron the lapel and collar.50 Ironing Shirt, Trousers, Jeans, and Jackets © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
Place the back on the table with both fronts hanging.Iron the back by moving the iron from the top to bottom.Make sure that the lining is smooth without any wrinkleson the inside. In the garment industry, you will also use ironing andfinishing equipment for shirt, pants, jackets, and dresses.These are large machines with pneumatic control andsteam-heated body forms on which the garments are placed and using the con-trol switches you can press and remove the garments. In the case of jeans, thereis special equipment with pneumatic operated legs on which both the legs areplaced. Steam is passed from inside and a press moves on it and presses. In somefinishers, after the legs are pneumatically expanded, a steam iron is used to ironthe outside.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Ironing Shirt, Trousers, Jeans, and Jackets 51
Notes52 Ironing Shirt, Trousers, Jeans, and Jackets © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
TRAINEE MODULE 10 FOLDING A SHIRT AND TROUSERS Learning Objectives In this session, the trainee will be explained the methods of folding various garments. The most common garments in the industry that are produced are shirts and trousers. In the finishing section after ironing, these garments are folded and packed as required by the customer. Some of the garments are packed in polybags and cartons while some of them are pressed and put on hangers. In this session you will learn: 1. Folding of different garments 2. Methods of folding 3. Folding equipment Key Points 1. Folding dress shirt 2. Folding formal pant 3. Equipment used in folding Main Content Ironed garments are folded. Folding instruction dif- fer from garment to garment and customer to cus- tomer. Most retail customers require shop-ready packing. This will mean that the garments are not folded, but placed on hangers and in poly bags. In case of shirts, there are different methods of folding per the customer instructions. Different53 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
methods of folding are flat fold wherein thesleeves are folded back, crossing each other, andthe garment is half folded with the front facingup. Another method of folding is where the col-lar is supported with an adjustable collar standplaced inside the neck opening and a collar bandis placed in the collar fold. The sleeves are foldedat the back, either across each other or folded onthe side. The sides of the fabric are folded up to a few inches from the collar fromthe yoke downward. The rectangle form is then folded into half to make neatand compact shirt. Tissue paper is placed at the back side from the yoke up tothe chest. Folding and packing instructions are largely based on the delivery to the store.Some stores of the same retailer may have sufficient space to display the productson shelf; some may have more space to display on hangers by product category,while some other stores may have space for both shelf and hanging display. Folding also depends on the type of garment. For example, structured gar-ments, like formal shirts and pants, are often displayed, folded, and packed. Thegarments may be made of cotton and other natural fabrics or synthetic fabrics.They are both woven and knitted.54 Folding a Shirt and Trousers © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
Garments on hangers are often made of delicate fab-rics so that their drapability and fall are on display.It also encourages the retail customer in the store totouch and feel. Another consideration for display isthat the garment if folded easily gets creased.Dress shirt folding methodThe finished shirt must measure dimensions 11 x 17 x1 ½ inches. It must fit into a poly bag of size 12 x 18. Note that the garment, whenfolded, must be one inch less in dimensions than the poly bag. The packed shirts,6 of them, can be placed in one shipping carton of dimensions 23 x 10 12 inches. Place shirt with collar front facing up. Button the shirt. Now turn the garmentface down. Place the pre-cut tissue paper across the back. Now pick up the card-board with a collar tab. Place the cardboard across the back of the shirt over thetissue paper. Insert the collar tab into the collar. Fold the right side back of the shirt across the back support or cardboard, asshown in the diagram below. Fold the long sleeve across the back along the foldline. Repeat the same folding method for the left sleeve. Fold up the shirt tail orhem. Fold the shirt in half and tuck the folded hem into the folded pouch formedby the shoulder and sleeves. In case a paper collar insert is recommended, placeit under the collar. Insert collar stays as per instructions. Place the adjustableplastic collar of the correct size inside the neck opening. Insert plastic butterflyinto the collar button. Place the folded garment into the recommended size polybag and seal thepolybag with clear tape or heat seal. In the case of short sleeve shirts, while the sleeves are folded as Figure (a), theleft sleeve hem is folded on top of the shirt as in the diagrams on (b). (a) (b)© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Folding a Shirt and Trousers 55
The above folding is a general foldingmethod. However, in the industrial folding,the final size of the folded garment is given.Therefore, the folding must be precise so thegarment fits into the poly bag and other pack-ing materials prescribed. Usually for dress shirts, a back support orcardboard is required. The folded garment isalmost equivalent to the size of back support.A tissue paper is used to so that any moisture in the gar-ment is absorbed without any discoloration. Plastic clipsare used to hold the fold where required, particularlywhere the folded sleeves overlap at the shoulder and ifthe right cuff is shown over the folded garment. Often theright cuff is folded on top over the folded garment to indi-cate that the garment is a long-sleeve shirt. Similarly, forshort sleeves shirt. the shirt hem top corner is folded overthe garment and a clip placed. An adjustable plastic sup-port is placed in the collar opening after buttoning for astandup collar. Inside the collar fold. a cardboard support is provided so thatboth the plastic support and the cardboard prevent the collar from crushing andretain its shape. Tags such as brand tag, size tag and price tag are now looped on the secondbutton and then closed. The tags are adjusted with the right side showing up orbe visible before placing the shirt in the poly bag of specified size. In the case of pants, skirts, and other bottoms, tags are looped on the waist but-ton after the garment is folded.Folding method for pantsFinished dimensions after folding of the pantare 19 x 14 inches. The folded pant must bepacked in a poly bag of size 20 x 14 inches. Asin the case of a shirt, the folded pant must be1 inch less than the poly bag dimensions. Thecarton with dimensions 23 x15 x 17 inches isused to pack 6 pants. Place garment face down, the zipper sidebelow and the back to the top. Do not button, snap or zip. The belt must be in thebelt loops; the buckle must be tucked in the front fold.56 Folding a Shirt and Trousers © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
Fold the pant on the center crease. Hold both legs together and place the panton its side. The front and back creases must be aligned and the inseams must beon each other. Fold the hem or bottom of the pant over the waist so that the zip-per is tucked in. Fold it once again in half. Place the folded garment in the polybag of suitable size.Folding method for skirtFinished dimensions of the skirt after folding mustbe 10” x 12”. Larger skirts are folded to 10” x 19”.The folded skirt is placed in a poly bag of size 11” x14”. The space between the outer edge of the foldedgarment and poly bag must not be more than oneinch. Six of the packed skirts are placed in a carton ofdimensions 23” x 10” x 12”. Place garment face down with the zipper side facing the folding table. Buttonor snap or zip the skirt. Fold the right side of the skirt over on the fold line. Nextfold the left side over on the fold line. The skirt is now folded on both sides andappears as a rectangle. Now fold the bottom of the skirt upon the fold line, asshown in the picture. Fold the top of the skirt down on the fold line Place the tagson the button or snap and loop it. Close the button. Place the folded garment intothe correct size polybag and seal the polybag with clear tape or heat seal.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Folding a Shirt and Trousers 57
Notes58 Folding a Shirt and Trousers © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
TRAINEE MODULE 11 PACKING MATERIALS, CARTONS, & QUALITY Learning Objectives There are many packing materials used in the garment industry to pack various types and sizes of garments. Some of these materials are made of plastic and some are of cardboard. All these materials are tested for their size and quality, as required by the customer. You will learn in this session about: 1. Different Packing materials 2. Packing materials used in dress shirts 3. Use of the materials for packing Key Points 1. Packing materials 2. Tags 3. Use of packing materials in shirts Main Content In the garment industry, the packing materials play a very important role. These materials keep the garments neat and clean until they reach the store from the production floor. The quality and size specifications of the materials are prescribed by the customer. Adjustable collar band Various types of packing materials are used in the gar- ment industry. With dress shirts collar being the most impor- tant part, care is taken to make it appear standing up from the remainder of the garment. The packing materials used59 © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
for a shirt are an adjustable inside collar band made of plastic. This can be ad-justed to suit the neck opening. Place the band inside the collar as in the picture.Back supportTo support the fold of the shirt and the collar better,a cardboard back support with neck band is insert-ed in the under collar. The back support gives theshirt the shape it requires and does not allow it to getwrinkled. Using the back support, you will fold theshirt and pack it.Tissue paper, butterfly and plastic clipsSometimes tissue paper is used in the folding of a shirtand other garments. It is placed between the two foldsof the garment so that there is no friction between them,and the moisture in the packing after ironing is ab-sorbed. The collar is given support at the button so that thepoints are not crushed. A plastic support, called a butter-fly, is inserted on the first button. To keep the folds in place, plastic clips are used. Afterthe shirt is folded, place a clip on the cuff fold to keep itfrom moving. Similarly, place two clips on either side ofthe shoulder.Tags and Tag gunThe folded garments are tagged per the instructions of thecustomer. In case of floor-ready packing, after ironing, tagsare placed on the garment with the help of plastic bulletsor with thread ropes, as prescribed by the customer. Fol-low the customer instructions and place the tags as twistand loop to the second button from the collar or bullet tothe wearers left armhole. The tag will have space for theprice ticket, which must be affixed.60 Packing Materials, Cartons, & Quality © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
The tags are of different sizes and shapes. They are in different colors, withthe brand name of the customer printed on them. Tags are used by customersto make the garments appear attractive. Some tags provide information aboutthe product and how to use it. Some of them have ropes knotted which have tobe just twisted on the button. Others have a hole punched and these need to beattached to the garment using a plastic bullet. Sometimes price tags are given bythe customer to be attached to the main tags. Price tags are also given separatelyto be tagged to the garment together with the main tag. The tag gun has a needle in which the tag bulletis placed and the needle is pierced into the garment.When the gun trigger is pressed, the bullet with thetag gets attached to the garment. Individual garments are first packed in separatepoly bags. The size and thickness of the poly bag isgiven by the customer. Each garment is packed andsealed with a cello tape. The packed garments are placed in mini-carton inner cartons. The carton istested for its strength to hold six garments and six such inner cartons are placedin one outer carton. The strength of the outer carton is tested by finding its burst-ing strength. Floor-ready garments are packed, without folding, on plastic hang-ers of a size and shape given by the customer. Each hanger has a size ring insertedon its hook.© ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd. Packing Materials, Cartons, & Quality 61
Notes62 Packing Materials, Cartons, & Quality © ISHA Learning Systems Pvt. Ltd.
Education is a liberating and democratizing forceenabling access to opportunities cutting across variousbarriers.ISHA Learning leverages the power of Informationand Communication Technologies (ICT) to supportDemand Driven, Technology Enabled Employability andCareer Advancement Programmes enabling greateraccess to Education,Employment and Earnings for all. Education > Employment > Earnings
Search
