ZXR400 H Full manual

16-2 APPEN DIXAdditional Considerations for Racing When a plug of the correct heat range is belng used, the electrodes will stay hot enough to keep all the carbonThis motorcycle has been manufactured for use in a burned off, but cool enough to keep from damaging the engine and the plug itself. This temperature is about 400reasonable and prudent manner and as a vehicle only, -800°C (750 -1 ,450°F} and can be judged by notingHowever, some may wish to subject this motorcycle to the condition and color of the ceramic insulator around the center electrode. If the ceramic is clean and of a lightabnormal operation, such as would be experienced under brown color, the plug is operating at the right temperature.racing conditions. KAWASAKI STRONGLY A spark plug for higher operating temperatures is used for racing. Such a plug is designed for better coolingRECOMMENDS THAT ALL RIDERS RIDE SAFELY AND efficiency so that it will not overheat and thus is often called a \"colder\" plug. If a spark plug with too cool a heatOBEY ALL LAWS AND REGULATIONS CONCERNING range is used -that is, a \"cold\" plug that cools itself too well -the plug will stay too cool to burn off the carbon,THEIR MOTORCYCLE AND ITS OPERATION. and the carbon will collect on the electrodes and the ceramic insulator.Racing should be done under supervised conditions, The carbon on the electrodes conducts electricity, andand recognized sanctioning bodies should be contacted can short the center electrode to ground by either coating the ceramic insulator or bridging across the gap. Such afor further details. For those who desire to participate in short will prevent an effective spark. Carbon build-up on the plug can also cause other troubles. It can heat upcompetitive racing or related use, the following technical red-hot and cause preignition and knocking, which may eventually burn a hole in the top of the piston.information may prove useful. However, please note thefollowing important notes..You are entirely responsible for the use of yourmotorcycle under abnormal conditions such as racing,and Kawasaki shall not be liable for any damages whichmight arise from such use..Kawasaki's Limited Motorcycle Warranty and LimitedEmission Control Systems Warranty specifically excludemotorcycles which are used in competition or relateduses. Please read the warranty carefully..Motorcycle racing is a very sophisticated sport, subjectto many variables. The following information istheoretical only, and Kawasaki shall not be liable for anydamages which might arise from alterations utilizing thisinformation..When the motorcycle is operated on public roads, itmust be in its original state in order to ensure safety andcompliance with applicable regulations.Carburetor: Sometimes an alteration may be desirable for improvedperformance under special conditions when propermixture is not obtained after the carburetor has beenproperly adjusted, and all parts cleaned and found to befunctioning properly. If the engine still exhibits symptoms of overly rich orlean carburetion after all maintenance and adjustments arecorrectly performed, the main jet can be replaced with asmaller or larger one. smaller numbered jet gives a leanermixture and larger numbered jet a richer mixture.Spark Plug: The spark plug ignites the fuel and air mixture in thecombustion chamber. To do this effectively and at theproper time, the correct spark plug must be used, and thespark plug must be kept clean and the gap adjusted. Tests have shown the plug listed in the \"GeneralInformation\" chapter to be the best plug for general use. Since spark plug requirements change with the ignitionand carburetion adjustments and with riding conditions,whether or not a spark plug of the correct heat range isused should be determined by removing and inspectingthe plug.

APPENDIX 16-3Spark Plug Condition Carbon Fouling Oil Fouling Nonnal Operation OverheatingSpark Plug Inspection Standard Spark Plug Threads.Remove the spark plug and inspect the ceramic Diameter: 10 mm insulator. Pitch: 1 .0 mm*Whether or not the right temperature plug is being used Reach: 19 mm can be ascertained by noting the condition of the NOTE ceramic insulator around the electrode. A light brown color indicates the correct plug is being used. If the 0 The heat range of the spark plug functions like a ceramic is black, it indicates that the plug is firing at too thermostat for the engine. Using the wrong type of Iowa temperature, so the next hotter type should be spark plug can make the engine run too hot (resulting used instead. If the ceramic is white, the plug is in engine damage) or too cold (with poor performance, operating at too high a temperature and it should be misfiring, and stalling). replaced with the next colder type.Plug Reach

16-4 APPENDIXTroubleshooting Guide Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking) NOTE Piston ring/groove clearance excessive or Cylinder head gasket damaged0 This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause Cylinder head warped for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough Valve spring broken or weak guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, common difficulties. carbon accumulation on the seating surface)Engine Doesn't Start, Starting Difficulty: Poor Running at Low Speed: Starter motor not rotating: Spark weak: Battery voltage low Starter lockout or neutral switch trouble Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Starter motor trouble Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact Battery voltage low Spark plug incorrect Relays not contacting or operating IC igniter trouble Starter button not contacting Pickup coil trouble Wiring open or shorted Ignition coil trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Ignition switch trouble Pilot screw maladjusted Engine stop switch trouble Pilot jet, or air passage clogged Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged Fuse blown Pilot passage clogged Starter motor rotating but engine doesn't turn Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Starter plunger stuck open over: Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too Starter motor clutch trouble low Fuel tank air vent obstructed Engine won't turn over: Carburetor holder loose Air cleaner duct loose Valve seizure Compression low: Rocker arm seizure Spark plug loose Cylinder, piston seizure Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Crankshaft seizure Cylinder, piston worn Connecting rod small end seizure Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking) Connecting rod big end seizure Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head warped Transmission gear or bearing seizure Cylinder head gasket damaged Valve spring broken or weak Camshaft seizure Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface) No fuel flow: Other: Fuel tank air vent obstructed IC igniter trouble Carburetors not synchronizing Fuel tap clogged Vacuum piston doesn't slide smoothly Fuel line clogged Engine oil viscosity too high Float valve clogged Drive train trouble Brake dragging Engine flooded: Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high Float valve worn or stuck open Starting technique faulty (When flooded, crank the engine with the throttle fully open to allow more air to reach the engine.) No spark; spark weak: Battery voltage low Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble Spark plug cap not in good contact Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch trouble Pickup coil trouble Poor Running or No Power at High Speed: Ignition coil trouble Firing incorrect: Ignition or engine stop switch shorted Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact Wiring shorted or open Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Fuse blown Pickup coil trouble Compression Low: Ignition coil trouble Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance

APPENDIX 16-5Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Engine oil viscosity too high Starter plunger stuck open Drive train trouble Main jet clogged or wrong size Brake dragging Jet needle or needle jet worn Lubrication inadequate: Air jet clogged Engine oil level too low Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too Engine oil poor quality or incorrect low Gauge incorrect: Bleed holes of needle jet holder or needle jet Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken clogged Coolant incorrect: Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Coolant level too low Air cleaner duct poorly sealed Coolant deteriorated Water or foreign matter in fuel Cooling system component incorrect: Carburetor holder loose Radiator clogged Fuel tank air vent obstructed Thermostat trouble Fuel tap clogged Radiator cap trouble Fuel line clogged Thermostatic fan switch trouble Fuel filter clogged Fan relay troubleCompression low: Fan motor broken Spark plug loose Fan blade damaged Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Water pump not turning No valve clearance Water pump impeller damaged Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Over Cooling:Cylinder head gasket damagedCylinder head warped Gauge incorrect:Valve spring broken or weakValve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or Water temperature gauge broken carbon accumulation on the seating surface.) Water temperature sensor brokenKnocking: Cooling system component incorrect: Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Thermostatic fan switch trouble Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Thermostat troubleMiscellaneous: Clutch Operation Faulty: Throttle valve won't fully open Vacuum piston doesn't slide smoothly Brake dragging Clutch slippingOverheating Clutch slipping:Engine oil level too highEngine oil viscosity too high Friction plate worn or warpedDrive train trouble Steel plate worn or warped Clutch spring broken or weak Clutch slave cylinder trouble Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn Clutch not disengaging properly:Overheating: Clutch plate warped or too rough Firing incorrect: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Clutch spring compression uneven Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Engine oil deteriorated Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Main jet clogged or wrong size Engine oil viscosity too high Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low Carburetor holder loose Engine oil level too high Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing Air cleaner duct poorly sealed Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft Air cleaner clogged Clutch release mechanism trouble Compression high: Carbon built up in combustion chamber Clutch hub locknut loose Engine load faulty: Gear Shifting Faulty: return: Clutch slipping Doesn't go into gear; shift pedal doesn't Engine oil level too high Clutch not disengaging Shift fork bent or seized Gear stuck on the shaft Shift return spring weak or broken Shift return spring pin loose

16-6 APPENDIX Pawl spring broken Rear wheel misaligned Shift mechanism arm broken Jumps out of gear: Abnormal Frame Noise: Shift fork worn Front fork noise: Gear groove worn Oil insufficient or too thin Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn Spring weak or broken Shift drum groove worn Rear shock absorber noise: Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken Shock absorber damaged Shift fork pin worn Disc brake noise: Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn Pad installed incorrectly Overshifts: Pad surface glazed Neutral positioning lever spring weak or broken Disc warped Pawl spring broken Caliper trouble Other noise:Abnormal Engine Noise: Bracket nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened Knocking: chamber IC igniter trouble Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On: Carbon built up in combustion Engine oil pump damaged Fuel poor quality or incorrect Engine oil screen clogged Spark plug incorrect Engine oil level too low Engine oil viscosity too low Overheating Camshaft bearings worn Piston slap: Crankshaft bearings worn Oil pressure switch damaged Cylinder/piston clearance excessive Wiring damaged Cylinder, piston worn Relief valve stuck open Connecting rod bent O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged .piston pin, piston pin hole worn Valve noise: Exhaust Smokes Excessively: Valve clearance incorrect White smoke: Valve spring broken or weak Piston oil ring worn Camshaft bearing worn Cylinder worn Other noise: Valve oil seal damaged Connecting rod small end clearance excessive Valve guide worn Connecting rod big end clearance excessive Engine oil level to high Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck Black smoke: Piston seizure, damage Air cleaner clogged Cylinder head gasket leaking Main jet too large or fallen off Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection Starter plunger stuck open Crankshaft runout excessive Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high Engine mounts loose Brown smoke: Crankshaft bearing worn Main jet too small Primary gear worn or chipped Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low Camshaft chain tensioner trouble Air cleaner O-ring damaged Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide wornAbnormal Drive Train Noise: Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory: Clutch noise: Handlebar hard to turn: Weak or damaged rubber damper Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive Steering stem locknut too tight Clutch housing gear worn Transmission noise: Bearing damaged Bearings worn Steering bearing lubrication inadequate Transmission gears worn or chipped Steering stem bent Metal chips jammed in gear teeth Engine oil insufficient Tire air pressure too low Drive chain noise: Drive chain adjusted improperly Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates: Chain worn Rear and/or engine sprocket worn Chain lubrication insufficient

APPENDIX 16-7 Tire worn General Lubrication Swing arm pivot bearings worn Rim warped, or not balanced Lubrication Wheel bearing worn .Before lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots Handlebar mounting bolt loose Steering stem head nut loose with rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, orHandlebar pulls to one side: grime. Frame bent .Lubricate the points listed below with indicated Wheel misalignment Swing arm bent or twisted lubricant. Steering maladjusted (oil level, air NOTE Front fork bent Right/left fork legs unbalanced 0 Whenever the vehicle has been operated under wet or rainy conditions, or especially after using a pressure, anti-dive setting) high-pressure spray water, perform the general lubrication.Shock absorption unsatisfactory: (Too hard) Pivots: Lubricate with Motor Oil Front fork oil excessive Front fork oil viscosity too high Side Stand Front fork adjustment too hard Rear shock adjustment too soft Clutch Lever Tire air pressure too high Brake Lever Front fork anti-dive mechanism trouble Brake Pedal Front fork bent (Too soft) Points: Lubricate with Grease. Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking Throttle Inner Cable Lower End Front fork oil viscosity too low Speedometer Inner Cable* Front fork air pressure too low Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weaken *Grease the lower part of the inner cable sparingly. Rear shock absorber oil leaking Cables: Lubricate with Cable Lubricant Front fork anti-dive mechanism trouble Choke Cable Throttle CablesBrake Doesn't Hold: Clutch Cable Air in the brake line Pad or disc worn Cable lubrication Brake fluid leakage Disc warped [j) Contaminated pad Brake fluid deteriorated Primary or secondary cup damaged Master cylinder scratched insideBattery Discharged: J Battery faulty (e.g., plates sulphated, shorted through sedimentation, electrolyte level too low) Battery leads making poor contact Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage) Ignition switch trouble Alternator trouble Wiring faulty Regulator/Rectifier troubleBattery Overcharged: Regulator/Rectifier trouble

16-8 APPENDIXNut, Bolt, and Fastener Tightness Standard Torque TableTightness Inspection This table relating tightening torque to thread diameter,.Check the tightness of the bolts and nuts listed here. lists the basic torque for bolts and nuts. Use this table for only the bolts and nuts which do not require a specific Also, check to see that each cotter pin is in place and in torque value. Refer to each chapter for reference to these good condition. features. All of the values are for use with dry solvent-cleaned threads. NOTE General Fasteners0 For the engine fasteners, check the tightness of them when the engine is cold (at room temperature).* If there are loose fasteners, retorque them to the specified torque following the specified tightening sequence. Refer to the appropriate chapter for torque specifications. If torque specifications are not in the appropriate chapter, see the Standard Torque Table. For each fastener, first loosen it by1 /2 turn, then tighten it.* If cotter pins are damaged, replace them with new ones.Nut. bolt and fastener to be checked Wheels: Front Axle Nut Front Axle Clamp Bolts Rear Axle Nut Chain Adjusting Bolt Locknut Brakes: Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts Caliper Mounting Bolts Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts Torque Link Nuts Brake Lever Pivot Nut Brake Pedal Bolt Brake Rod Joint Cotter Pin Suspension: Nuts Front Fork Clamp Bolts Front Fender Mounting Bolts Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Swing Arm Pivot Shaft Nut Uni- Trak Link Nuts Steering: Bolts Stem Head Nut Handlebar Mounting Engine: Engine Mounting Bolts Cylinder Head Bolts Muffler Connecting Pipe Clamp Bolts Muffler Mounting Bolt and Nut Muffler Connecting Clamp Bolts Clutch Lever Pivot Nut Others: Side Stand Bolt Front Footpeg Mounting Bolts Footpeg Bracket Mounting Bolts Down Tube Mounting Bolts

APPENDIX 16-9 Unit Conversion Table Units of Length mile Prefixes for Units: km x 0.6214 ft m x 3.281 in mm x 0.03937 Units of Torque: 0.1020 kg-m N-m x 0.7376 N-m x 8.851 = N-m x ft-Ib kg-m x 9.807 in-Ib kg-m x 7.233 kg-m x 86.80 = N-m ft-Ib in-Ib Units of Mass: 2.205 Ib kg x 0.03527 oz gx Units of Volume: 0.2642 gal (US) Units of Speed: mph L x 0.2200 - gal (imp) km/h x 0.6214 L x 1.057 L x 0.8799 qt (US) L x 2.113 qt (imp) L x 1 .816 pint (US) L x 0.03381 pint (imp) mL x 0.02816 oz (US) mL x 0.06102 oz (imp) mL x cu in Units of Force: 0.1020 kg Units of Power: PS N x 0.2248 Ib kW x 1.360 = HP N x kW x 1.341 9.807 N kW kg x 2.205 Ib PS x 0.7355 = HP kg x PS x 0.9863 Units of Temperature: = oF 5(O--F4+040) = °c I 9 9(OC+40)-40 68 104 212 248 oF 5 :: 176 : 2: 32 : 284 oF : :300320 -4 0: 20 : 40 60 80 i 100 i 120 :140 160 --: 4.4 26.7 48.9 71.1 93.3 116 138 °C -40 -20i -17.8 °C~