KAPOK COTTON Kapok is a silk-like fiber that provides a soft yet supportive fluffy feel. It is lighter than cotton and does not compress as quickly as cotton, wool, or down. It grows in tropical rain forests and is Commercially grown in Java, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. by a Shanghai based textile brand FLOCUS. . 51
Manufacturing Process They are harvested by collecting the pods when they fall, then smashed open with a mallet inside these pods are the kapok fibres in which 200 seeds are embedded. The seeds and fibres are obtained from the pods by hand and stirred in a basket, then the seeds fall to the bottom of the basket, leaving the fibres free to be used. Image source: Wikimedia Commons Image source: Alibaba What makes it sustainable The tree has developed a natural way to protect itself from animal attacks with the hard spines on its trunk so that no human intervention or irrigation, pesticides and fertilisers are needed. They can be grown in a biodiverse environment, organically fertilising the land, supporting poly- cropping and saving 3000 litres of water, which is equivalent to 15 full bathtubs by 1 kilogram of cotton which is blended with just 30% of kapok. Companies making this fibre FLOCUS Estimated Price Rs 150-300 (6 ton/tons) 52
An alternate of Image source: Unsplash Silk & Java Cotton 53
Traits Image source: Maya Lumbi // They are very smooth //Completely lightweight //Warm as wool //Quick drying Image source: Khadi Fabric Image source: Unsplash Drawbacks // It is irritant, Image source: Textile Engineering Students //It is inflammable 54
Image source: Norvil Image source: Norvil 55
56 Image source: Design indaba
MILKWEED FIBRES Milkweed fibre (Asclepia syriaca) is obtained from the seedpod of milkweed also known as mudar. The members of this family are found in the tropical regions and in the drier parts of Central and North America. Milkweed fibres are hollow, with a thin wall and are therefore lightweight. 57
Manufacturing Process The soft, buoyant, lustrous floss is yellowish white in colour and is made up of individual fibres. The seedpods containing the floss are mechanically processed, or ginned, separating the seeds from their attached fibres. The fibres contain oily material and lignin, a woody plant substance, which makes them too brittle for spinning. Image source: Britannica Image source: Fashionista What makes it sustainable In milkweed’s case, creating more demand for the plant can have enough positive impact. According to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Services, the loss of milkweed is a major cause of decline in monarch populations, so much so that “the Western population is now less than 1% of its size in the 1980s.” Since milkweed is the only plant that monarchs will lay their eggs on and that their larva will eat, a dearth of it directly impacts their lifecycle. Companies making this fibre May West Estimated Price Rs 5,500 a flat of 32 58
An alternate of Image source: Design indaba Wool 59
Traits Image source: Design indaba // Floats //Very warm //Super lightweight Image source: Resilience Image source: Design indaba Image source: Fruition seeds Drawbacks // Produces a milky white sap that contains a mild poison // Very irritating to the skin // Very dangerous if it gets in eyes. 60
Image source: Pinterest 61
62
Fabrics that are made from pathogens is one of the newest addition to the sustainable innovations. They are generated in labs, which makes them strong, durable which can be mended easily. The technical process to create such fabrics from pathogens is called bio-fabrication. The biodegradable properties of such bacterial fabric ensures that the fabric returns to the earth without causing any pollution. This is bringing fashion closer to biology, as the scientists and the designers work closely to create such fashion solutions for the betterment of the future. 63
64 Image source: Unsplash
ALGAE PLASTIC Algae scales exceptionally well because it can grow almost anywhere, on an algae farm or can also be used to clean up the waste stream of other industries. Qingdao Xi Ying Men Group (a China based textile manufacturing company) were the first to discover the potential of algae as a source for a fibre in 2011. Charlotte McCurdy (a New York based researcher and designer) recently discovered and created algae bioplastic 65
Manufacturing Process Algae-plastic is created when algae is mixed with water and other plant-based additives, then heated up and poured into glass moulds, when the water evaporates material solidifies creating algae sheets that can be cut and sewn. Biotechnologies efficiently convert sunlight and CO2 into raw materials, suck carbon out of the atmosphere and pave the way to a carbon-negative wardrobe. Image source: Unsplash Image source: Fast Company What makes it sustainable Algae is full of cellulose. Micro-algae doubles in biomass in 24 hours, compared to cotton plants which take 100 days. They prevent global water pollution and are free of harmful chemicals and fertilizers. They can be used to replace the oil in fossil fuels to make our synthetic fabrics. A small but increasing group of innovators believe harnessing living bacteria, like algae, is the key to zero-waste sustainable fabric. Companies making this fibre AlgaLife, Smart Fiber, Algix 66
An alternate of Image source: Vogue Plastic 67
Traits Image source: Inhabitat // Bio-degradable //Heat resistant //Glossy //Flexible and Printable //Non-toxic Image source: Design Bloom Image source: Design Bloom Image source: Design Bloom Drawbacks //Shorter lifetime //Fragile 68
Image source: Design Bloom Image source: One x one 69
70 Image source: Digital Trends
FUNGAL LEATHER The material was created by Bolt threads and Ecovative design in 2013 by a Danish product designer Jonas Edvard, California. It was named Mylo, and is a certified bio-based leather, meaning it’s made from predominantly renewable ingredients that can be found in nature. Soft, supple, and less harmful to the planet. 71
Manufacturing Process A vegetative part of fungus which consists of fine white filaments. Mixtures of water, starch, mineral particles and hydrogen peroxide are poured into 7-by-7-inch moulds then they are injected into living mushroom cells then by placing them into a dark environment the cells start to grow, digesting the starch as food. This process is a fast process, and can be fully grown within two weeks. Billions of cells grow to form an interconnected 3D network which is processed, tanned, and dyed to make Mylo. Image source: Design Bloom Image source: Dezeen What makes it sustainable Designed to reduce environmental impact, it is made from renewable ingredients that are found in nature today and consumes less land and limits fewer greenhouse gases. Companies making this fibre Bolt Threads 72
An alternate of Image source: Material District Leather 73
Traits Image source: Green Queen // Mycelium has grown beneath our feet and served as an ecological connective tissue // Can be used like animal or synthetic leather, and can take on any color, emboss, or texture. Image source: Design Bloom Image source: Design Bloom Image source: Sourcing Journal Drawbacks //N/A 74
Image source: Dezeen Image source: The Fall 75
76 Image source: Kombu Leather
KELP LEATHER Kelp is a brown seaweed species, with a long, tough stalk and broad frond. This seaweed is the fastest-growing organism in the world, able to reach a daily height of 36 inches. It outgrows even bamboo – the world’s fastest-growing plant . SeaCell is a branded type of kelp leather developed by the American plant leather supplier, Nanonic Inc. 77
Manufacturing Process To make SeaCell, the company mixes kelp seaweed with cellulose from other algae fibres. The production process starts by embedding dried and crushed seaweed into cellulose fibres, by using nanotechnology. It is produced via non-toxic processes, and it is fully biodegradable when composted. Vitamin E and other nutrients found in Kelp benefits the material and are absorbed by the wearer’s skin. Image source: Wikimedia Commons Image source: Sustainability next What makes it sustainable As one of the most renewable organisms on the planet, Kelp absorbs CO2, slowing down global warming and ocean acidification. Kelp leather is decomposable, and thus, environmentally friendly. It is known to absorb large CO2 quantities from the atmosphere, up to 5x more CO2 than any other land plants. it doesn’t require fertilisers, pesticides, or other toxic chemicals. It simply grows clean, just as nature intended. Companies making this fibre Nanonic Inc 78
An alternate of Image source: Unsplash Leather 79
Traits Image source: Make Sushi // Flexible //Versatile //Fastest Growing Organism //Biodegradable //Softer Fabric //Rich in Nutrients Image source: Wtvox Image source: Dezeen Image source: Kathryn Larsen Drawbacks //Some nutrients can be harmful 80
Image source: Wtvox Image source: Wtvox 81
82
Cruelty free means neither the product nor its ingredients have ever been tested on animals. Such labels for products or activities do not harm or kill animals anywhere in the world. These biomaterials are verified, no ingredient suppliers conduct, commission, or pay for any tests on animals. 83
84 Image source: Unsplash
AHIMSA SILK Also known as Peace Silk and Non-violent silk is created in India by Kusuma Rajaiah, who hails from a weaver’s family who used to work in Andhra Pradesh’s handloom department. He made his first sample sarees in 1991 and then made Ahimsa silk a commercial product in 2001. 85
Manufacturing Process Ahimsa silk producers do not kill silkworms, compared to the traditional silk. Instead, each silkworm can emerge as a moth and live out the rest of its life naturally. It is only after the moth has emerged that cocoons are collected. The pierced cocoons are then used to extract the required yarn, spin the silk fibre and make fabric out of it. Image source: Studioresha Image source: Peta UK What makes it sustainable 100% cruelty free and uses eco-friendly processes in manufacturing it. It is a promising alternative for those who practice non-violence or would otherwise seek to minimize harm to living creatures. Companies making this fibre Ahimsa Silks, Cocccon crafts & looms and many more Estimated Price Rs 6,000 per kilogram, i.e., about twice the price of the regular one. 86
An alternate of Image source: Unsplash Silk 87
Traits Image source: Unsplash //Smoother than the regular silk //Soft texture //Permits air and is absorbent //Durable Image source: Unsplash Image source: Utsavpedia Drawbacks Image source: Treehugger //Time consuming production //Requires more labour and expensive //More susceptible to insects 88
Image source: Silkchambers Image source: Etsy 89
90 Image source: Unsplash
KOBA VEGAN FUR Koba is an innovative type of animal-free fur made from kelp seaweed and corn by-products. The innovation follows the very first bio-based fur company KOBA by ECOPEL that has made vegan fur to be used in the manufacturing of apparel.The DuPont biomaterials were launched by StellaMcCartney in 2019. 91
Manufacturing Process DuPont Sorona fiber is made by using fermentation to synthesize propanediol. Acid is then added to create a bonded polymer. 37% of DuPont’s polymer is made using renewable plant-based ingredients. The plant-based components are corn by-products from bio-fuel production that would otherwise be waste. ECOPEL blends this fiber with petroleum-based fibers to create KOBA faux fur. Image source: ECOPEL Image source: ECOPEL What makes it sustainable It is made with up to 100% Sorona fibers, creating the first commercially available faux furs using bio-based ingredients the fur is 37% plant-based which means it offers 30% energy reduction, 63% Greenhouse gas emission reduction and is still animal- friendly. Made from corn. Koba is far more sustainable than faux fur made from nylon, polyester, and other plastic materials. Companies making this fibre ECOPEL, KOBA 92
An alternate of Image source: Unsplash Fur 93
Traits Image source: ECOPEL //As soft as real fur //Can be produced in brilliant colors //Moisture wicking //Long lasting Image source: Unsplash Image source: Eco Warrior Princess Image source: Gogetglam Drawbacks //Uses minimal polyester or recycled polyester 94
Image source: Warrior Princess Image source: Allyson in Wonderland 95
References: https://www.abigindianstory.com/collections/tribe-bags https://amberoot.com/blogs/blog/future-of-fashion-innovative-fabric-orange-fibre https://www.ananas-anam.com https://www.appleleather.com/ https://www.bananatex.info/ https://bioplasticsnews.com/2020/01/28/sustainable-faux-fur-ecopel/ https://boltthreads.com/technology/mylo/ https://danandmez.com/blog/pinatex/ https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2018/09/fashion-made-from-food-waste-banana-silk-flax-linen/ https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2020/03/9-vegan-leather-alternatives-substitutes-to-animal-leather/ https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2020/11/sustainable-lifestyle-brand-ettitude-vegan-duvets-pillows/ https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2020/12/vegan-knitwear-cruelty-free-alternatives-wool-mohair-cashmere/ https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2021/03/vegan-bag-is-made-from-recycled-car-glass/ https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2021/05/next-generation-materials-future-sustainable-fashion/ https://ecoworldonline.com/what-is-milk-fiber-yarn/ https://ethicalkind.com/blogs/news/in-conversation-with-kusuma-rajaiah-the-authenticity-and-origin-of- ahimsa-silk https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/sustainable-textile-innovations-banana-fibres/2017082825623 https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/vegan-cactus-leather-from-mexico-new-favorite-for-luxury-at- lineapelle-milan/2019110146007 https://www.fibre2fashion.com/fibres/kapok-fibre-suppliers-p246 https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/5279/an-introduction-to-milk-fiber-a-review https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6932/ahimsa-silk-a-sustainable-and-non-violent- alternative https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7589/banana-fibre-green-apparel-of-the-future https://www.greenandgrowing.org/pinatex-eco-friendly-alternative-leather/ https://www.healthbenefitstimes.com/know-about-kapok/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CMIpxi9lBXY/?utm_medium=copy_link https://www.investindia.gov.in/siru/technical-textiles-future-textiles https://in.apparelresources.com/business-news/manufacturing/ahimsa-silk-one-sustainable-vegan-silks- trend-today/ https://www.livekindly.co/mexican-entrepreneurs-leather-cactus/ 96
https://luxtralondon.com/pages/apple-skin https://www.materialinnovation.org/ecopel-koba-innovator-profile https://mavolu.com/blogs/news/from-waste-to-value-banana-fibre-for-fashion-and-textiles https://medium.com/@madetrade/behind-the-fiber-transforming-banana-tree-waste-into-fabric- a33eb343d298 http://www.mesa.edu.au/friends/seashores/e_radiata.html https://www.mylo-unleather.com https://olivercompanylondon.com/pages/apple-leather http://orangefiber.it/en/fabrics/https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2020/10/banana-fibre-for- sustainable-fashion.html https://www.peta.org/living/personal-care-fashion/vegan-leather-chic-sustainable-and-fruity/ https://www.prescouter.com/2017/04/sustainable-animal-leather-alternatives/ https://www.raconteur.net/retail/textile-innovations-sustainability/ https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/the-environments-new-clothes-biodegradable-textiles-grown- from-live-organisms/ https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/banana-fabric https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/raw-materials/alt-tex-circular-textile-sugar-waste-polyester-fashion- startup-biodegradable-281261/ https://startupfashion.com/banana-fabric/ https://www.sustainablefashion.earth/type/recycling/textile-produced-from-algae/ https://www.sustainably-chic.com/blog/what-is-apple-leather https://www.sustainyourstyle.org/en/fiber-ecoreview?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ59Rs0trB3Fc L_7oN_7K18WNdvKumoNkvosuejz6lQucBeZ_DKcQFoaApFTEALw_wcB http://www.technofashionworld.com/frumat-the-leather-alternative-made-from-apples/ https://textilevaluechain.in/news-insights/fashion-from-waste-foodstuff-innovation-in-textiles-and- fashion-industry/ https://www.theblueeconomy.org/uploads/7/1/4/9/71490689/case_77_fibers_from_algae.pdf https://www.the-sustainable-fashion-collective.com/2019/06/03/what-is-banana-fibre-and-how-do-you- make-textiles-from-it https://www.trendhunter.com/slideshow/sustainable-textile-innovations https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/5-of-the-best-eco-friendly-fabrics-of-the-future https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/ahimsa-silk-eco-friendly-fabric-silkworms https://www.watsonwolfe.com/2020/02/08/what-is-mushroom-leather/ https://wtvox.com/fashion/kelp-leather/ https://www.zsfabrics.com/store/c91/www.zs-fabrics.com/organic-banana-fabric 97
98
99
100
Search
