The History of Underclothes

9, 197 Buttons, 19 Calico (flat), 19 Dorset Thread, 75, 83, 107, 137 High-top, 19, 83, 85 Mother-of-pcarl, 19, 126 Shirt, 138 Three-fold Linen, 136 Calf-pads. See Artificial Calves Cami-bockers, 251 Cami-comb, 251 Cami-knickers, 220, (243), 250–1, (251), (252) Cami-skirt, 209 Camisole, 94, 137, (146), 147, 163, 180, 198–9, 215, (232), 242, (249) Chemise, 13, 15, 31, 45–8, (45), (46), 62, (62), (63), (76), 82–3, (82), III, 128, (129), 144, (146), 163, 174, (175), 195, 209, 224, (225), (232), 242 Empire, 195 Sleeveless, 175 Chemisette, 46 Chest Protectors, 192 Chitterlings, 75, 126 Chitterlons. See Chitterlings Cleanliness, 15 Collar, Shirt, 99, 101, 102, 125, (139), 157–9,160,172,173,187,201, 204, 205, 219, 221, 222, 237–9 Butterfly, 187, 189 Detachable, 188 Double, 204, 239 Linen-faced Paper, 172 Patent Elliptic, 140, (142) Washable Rubber, 200 Collar-points, 102 Coloured Undergarments, 153 Combinations, Men, 208, 222, (223), 239 Women, 171, 176, 194, 195, 209, 224, 227, (232), 242, (249) Jaeger Sanitary, (193) Corselette, 250 Corset Covers, 215

Corsets. See also Stays Men, 43 (106), 127–8, 192 Bath, 107 Cumberland, 106, 107 Women, 15, 16, 21, 33, 35, 48, 62–4, (82), (86), (87), 87–8, 115, (116), (117), 130–2, 148–9, (149), 163, 179–80,(180), 197–8, (210), 211–12, (213), (226), 227, (228), (244), 244–5 Amazone, 149 Bathing, (245) Belt, (211) Demi-, 132 Divorce, 117 Jaeger, (197) Patent Caoutchouc Instantaneous Closing, 132 Straight-fronted, 201, 211 Swan-bili, 180 Thomson’s Glove Fitting, 179 Two-way Stretch, (248) Coutts, Thomas, 105, 107 Cravat, 58, 59, 60, 73, 77, 101, 102, 123, 125, 138, (139), 140, 157, 159 Crinolette, 177 Crinoline, 70, 71, 122, 136, 145, 151, 154–7. 163–6,(164–6), 177–9,(178) Cuff, Shirt, 59, 99, 101, 102, 126, 140, 172, 204, 206 Detachable, 188 Cufflinks, 19, 102, 126, 127, 138 Gold, 140, 159 Holes for, 19, 126 Cummerbund, 188 Dickey, 103, (104), 126, 143, 172, 188, 222 Drawers. See also ‘Linings’ Men, 13, 16, 25–31, 41, (44), 54, (57), 78, 102, 105, 127, (141), 143, 161, 174. 191, (203). 206–7, (208), 222, 240 Flannel, (104), 105 Footed, Long, (104), 105 Knicker-, 240 Women, 52, 65, 68, 110, 112–14, 130, 148, (167), 168, 176, 196, 214–15, (225), (232), (243)

Knitted Silk, (113) Ladies’ Hunting and Opera, 114 Red Flannel, (175) Dress Improvers, 149 Dress-shirt Protector, 206 ‘Ears,’ 101 Erotic Use of Underclothes, 15–17 Eyelet Holes, 115, 132 False Bosoms, 108 False Hips, 67, 71 Farthingale, 34, 50–2, 68, 70 Fashion Magazine, 96 Fastening, Methods of, 18, 19, 20 Fremantle, Captain, 102 ‘Frillies,’ 212, (249) ‘Frisk,’ 118 ‘Gallows,’ 106, 144 Garters, 69, 70, 71, 224 Gibson Girl , The, 212 Grundy, Mrs., 120, 185 Gusset, 102, 103 Habit-shirts, 83–7, (84), 131 Hoop, 13, 18, 68, 69, 71, 72, 108 India-rubber, 132 ‘Inexpressibles,’ 121 Jabot, 58, 73, 75, 105, 126 Jaeger, Dr., 185 Jenks, Amelia, 15 Jumps, 88, III Kempe, William, 49 Keys, 27 Knickerbockers, 196 Knickers, 215, 229–31, (231), 245–6, (249)

Chemi-, 229 Directoire, 215 French, 229 Skirt-, 209, 215, 231, 253 ‘Knut,’ The, 221 Lastex, 240 Laundry, 47 Lice, 55 Lingerie, 201, 202, 208–9, 221, (228) ‘Linings,’ 78. See also Drawers Link Holes, 85. See also Cufflinks Macaroni, 15, 80, 98 Machine Stitching, 105 Sewing, 137, 153 Materials, 18 Medieval Attitude to Underclothes, 22 Moravian Work, 112 Neckcloth, 99, 102, 159 Neckerchief, 99 Necktie, 159, 160, 172, 187–8, 204, 205, 222, 237, 238 Neckties, List of, 193 ‘Nelson,’ 118 ‘Nether Integuments,’ 121 Nightcap, 43, 52, 61, 80, 94, 128, (133), 144. 151. (168). 168, 174, 181 Nightclothes. See also Night wear Men, 23, 41–3, 61, (61), 72, 80, 107, (119), 128, 144, 162, 174, (191), 192 Women, 52, 66–7, (66), 94, (95), 119, (119), 134, 151, 217, 233, 253–6. See also Nightdress Night Coifs, 52, 66 Nightdress, 13, 16, (129), 168, 181, 199, 217, (225), (249). See also Nightclothes Nightgown, 48, 199 Night Wear, 224. See also Nightclothes Nylon, 258 Oldfield, Mrs., 55 Orion, 258

Pantaleone, Saint, 13 Pantalettes, 114, 130, (131) Pantaloons, 13, 108, 110, 114, 123, 130 Pantie-belt, 250 Pantie-briefs, 245, 250 Panties, 13, 245. See also Knickers Pants, 13, 41, 206–7, 222 Penance, 22 Pepys, Mrs., 65 Perfumed Undergarments, 47, 54 Petticoat, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 34, 49–50, 64, 70, 71, 72, (82), 83, 111–12, 121, 128–30,145–7, 166–8, (167), 176–7, 196–7, 212–14, 227, 229, (232), 246–50, (249) -Bodice. See Camisole Crinoline, (146) Elastic, 112 Hooped, 88–91, (89), 90, (90) Horsehair, 145, 147 Invisible, 112 Knicker-, 253 Princess, (129), 145, (216), 227, 249 Under-, 49, 64, (178). See also Underskirt Woven Woollen, 166 Pilgrims, 26 Pin, 136 Pockets, 67, 83, 118, 168 Points, 30, 48, 49, 50 Prices, for 1485–1625, 43 Prudery, 11, 12, 15, 97, 108, 120, 122, 151, 153, 170, 185 Purchases in Paris, 167c, 60 Purse, 27 Pyjamas, Men, 192, (207), 208, (240), 241 Women, 199, 217, (232), 233, 253, (254), 255, 256 Ruff, 37, 39 Cartwheel, 37 Ruffles, 37, 58, 75, 99, 101 Rump Furbelows, 64, (footnote)

‘Scanties,’ 250 Sheet of Repentance, 56 Shift, 47. See also Smock Shirt, 13, 17, 23–5, 26, 31, 34. 36–41, (36), (37). (40), (42). 56–9, (57). (58), (59). (63), 73–8, (74). (76), (77), (79). 99–105. (100), 123–7, (124), 138–42, (139), (141), (142), 157–61, (158), (160), 171–3, 187–91, (187), (189), (190), (203), 204–6, 221–2, 237–9, (239) ‘Aquatic,’ 125 Cloth, 25 Hair, 22 Half-, 59–60, 65 Leeds, (100), 103 Rodger’s Improved, 142 Ruffled, 75, 101, 102 Silk, 39 Soft, 219 Sports, 188, 239 Tennis, (205) Wedding, (100), 103 Shorts, 240, (240) Singlet, 235, 240, (240) Siren Suit, 256 Sleeping Suit, Jaeger Complete, (192) Slip. See Petticoat Smallclothes, 105 Smock, 22, 31, (32), 45, 50, 66. See also Shift Married in, 47 Races, 65 Spcncer, (233), 233, 250 Stays. See also Corsets Men, 72, 82 Women, 13, (32), 33, 69, 72, 92 Long Elastic Cotton, 115 Night, 132 Pregnant, 118 Vulcanian, 88 Steinkirk, 58, 73, 77, (79) Stock, 73, 102, 123, 159 Stockings, 12, 13, 15, 61, 112, 114, 121, 153, 248

Strossers, 41 Studs, 138, 140, 171, 173 Tethered, 138 Supportasse, 37 Suspenders, 180 Sock, 192 Tie Clips, 192 Tight-lacing, 33, 64, 130, 137, 138, 163, 179, 197 ‘Tommy,’ 103 Trousers, 13, 41. See also Drawers Peg-top, 153 Trouser-Skirts, 253 Trousseau, 16, 33, 183, 217–18 Trunks, Men, 240 Women, 245 Pantie-, 246, 250 Underbodice, (175) Under-Propper, 37, 39 Undershirt. See Vest Underskirt, (93), (178), (210), (230). See also Underpetticoat ‘Undies,’ 201, 221 Vest, Men, 41, 48, 174, 191, (191), (208), 222 Under-, 143, 161, 206, (223) Women, 137, 147, 168, 180–1, 198, 233, 242 Chemi-, 242 Under-, 242 Waistcoat, Men , 13, 17, 34, 41, 64, 72, 101, 123, 138, 140, 172 Under, 107, 143 Women, 48, 65 Washing Bill, 47 ‘Whisk,’ 37, 39 ‘Winker,’ 102 Working Man’s Underclothes, 194

Table of Contents Title Page Copyright Contents Illustrations Acknowledgments Introduction I. Medieval Period II. 1485–1625 III. 1626–1710 IV. 1711–1790 V. 1791–1820 VI. 1821–1840 VII. 1841–1856 VIII. 1857–1866 IX. 1867–1882 X. 1883–1896 XI. 1897–1908 XII. 1909–1918 XIII. 1919–1939 Epilogue Bibliography Appendix Index