บ้านฉัน บ้านเธอ (ปัตตานีกีตอ)

After all three coordinators had introduced themselves, Wadee continued, “For today’s activities, we’ll start with a trip to important places in Pattani! You guys should record the events that interest you in the notebooks that were previously handed out. You’ll each get to prepare and tell the other campers one story about good and interesting things from your community during the campfire tonight!” 50

“Wadee! Our bus is here!” Matu called out. “Are you ready?” Wadee asked the children. “Yes, we are!” The children answered loudly in unison. After the children were all on board, Wadee told them they were being taken to see several important places in Pattani’s Central and Yaring Districts. 51

While the bus rode across the Royal Jubilee Bridge, Wadee told everyone to look to their left where big and small fishing boats, including trawlers and the colorful Koleks, could be seen serenely floating by the piers. 52

She said to the students, Pattani Bay “Pattani Bay is a large bay, suitable for harboring big boats. Photo : Ameen Naksewee The bay is protected by a long natural sand spit that provides “Can we eat red algae?” shelters from violent waves and Kaemyui asked. storms. So it has become a safe spot for both local fishermen “Yes we can. People use it to make algae salad. It is a snack and large cargo ships.” that tastes predominantly sour, “Apart from being well-known followed by sweet and spicy,” since the old days, Pattani Bay is also the largest river mouth in Wadee answered. the South of Thailand. It is filled with a large variety of natural resources, such as mangroves, sea bass, mullets, blue crabs, black crabs, tiger prawns, cockles, and red algae.”

After having crossed the bridge for a little while, Wadee asked Mr. Dam, the bus driver, to park let the children out to see a salt farm. Wadee told the children, “Pattani salt farms are the only brine salt production place in the South. According to records, 54

Pattani salt farms have been Salt Farm in existence for more than 400 years. To farm salt, sea water is drawn into Photo : Ameen Naksewee the fields and is left to dry up in the sun. Once all the sea water has evaporated, leaving only crystallized salt, farmers gather the salt into small heaps as you can see here. They then put the salt into containers called Bakoh, which are carried to the roadside and piled there in wait for buyers to come and buy it for sale in the markets.” “Is it as salty as the salt I use at home?” Joon asked. “Can I have a taste?” Adel added. “Go ahead, children! Try some from this big pile!” Mr. Karim, the farm owner who happened to walk in gave his permission. The children rushed over to put some salt in their mouth. “It’s so salty!”

Mr. Karim, the kind salt farmer, told the children that: “Actually salt, wherever it comes from, tastes salty all the same. But people in the old days used to say that Pattani salt was sweeter. The truth is that Pattani salt is less salty than other salts, because the sea water here is diluted by fresh water from Pattani River and Yaring Canal. The salt produced here is therefore a little less salty than salts from Phetchaburi or Samut Sakhon, but not that much really. Well, what do you think? Is Pattani salt delicious? Ha-ha!” Everybody laughed in amusement. All the students said good-bye to Mr. Karim and got on the bus to continue their journey. 56

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The bus went along the Pattani-Narathiwat Road for a while, then Matu told the children to prepare to get off the bus to see Krue Se Mosque. After getting off the bus, Wadee took the children to greet Mr. Soh, who was sitting under a tree waiting for them. “As-salamu alaykum, everyone. I’m so glad that you’ve come to visit. This is a very important historical place. Let me tell you why it is so. But, first, does anyone know what this brick building is called?” Adel raised his hand quickly before anyone else did. “It’s Krue Se Mosque! It is our first mosque and was built by an ancient king as a place of prayers for Muslims!” 58

“That’s correct! Very good, young man! What’s your name?” Mr. Soh asked. “My name is Adel!” “Ah! That means justice in Arabic!” Mr. Soh exclaimed. 59

“All right! Now I will tell you the story of Krue Se Mosque! It started with King Indira of Pattani who used to be a Buddhist. He was converted to Islam, and changed his name to Sultan Ismail Shah. At the time, there weren’t any permanent mosques yet. Later, under the reign of Sultan Muzaffar Shah, the king ordered a city mosque to be built. This became the Krue Se Mosque as you see now. It is also known by another name of Masjid Puntu Gerbang, or the Mosque at the City Gate. We should walk closer to the building, so that I can explain more about the building’s structure.” 60

Krue Se Mosque “Krue Se Mosque is a brick and mortar building, with round Photo : Ameen Naksewee shaped pillars. The doors and windows are either shaped with pointed or round curves at the top. The roof and the domes are round-shaped. The building was constructed in the old Persian architectural style. Let’s go and have a look inside! Everybody should take their shoes off to show your respect to this sacred place. You should also keep quiet, because people still come here to pray. Some people also use this place to learn and read the Quran.” 61

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After everybody completed their “There are several legends walk around the Mosque, concerning Lim Ko Niao. Mr. Soh took them to another I’ll tell you the one I’m most building nearby. familiar with. “Is this Lim Ko Niao’s Tomb?” Lim Ko Niao was a Chinese girl Moei, a small, slender who came from China to look for her brother Lim Tok Kiam. Chinese-Thai girl asked Mr. Soh. Their mother was gravely ill and “Yes, it is.” Mr. Soh answered. she wanted to see her son for the last time. After spending a long time searching for him, she heard that her brother got married to a Malay woman. and was living in Pattani. When she finally found her brother, she asked him to go back to China with her, but he refused to do so.” Lim Ko Niao’s Tomb Photo: Nopparat Muneerat 63

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“Lim Ko Niao did not give up easily. She tried unsuccessfully to beg her brother to go back to China with her several times. Later, when war erupted in Pattani, Lim Tok Kiam fought against the invaders. Lim Ko Niao joined her brother to aid him in the battle, but was unable to fight off the enemy. When she saw that they were going to lose, she decided to kill herself instead of letting herself be killed. Her courage and her conviction earned Lim Ko Niao high respect from the Chinese people in Pattani. So they had her statue made and placed in a shrine next to Krue Se Mosque. It is widely believed that Lim Ko Niao has become a goddess who has sacred powers to bless the people. There are several legends about Lim Ko Niao. Those who are interested should read more about her. Use your critical reasoning in your learning, so that you will properly understand what you read. Alright, children! That’s it! I’m really so glad that you are interested in the stories of our hometown.” 65



“Our next stop is Yaring Palace Yaring Palace!” Matu announced. Photo : Ameen Naksewee “Are there princes or princesses at Yaring Palace?” Moei asked. Wadee smiled and said, “It used to be the home of former rulers of Yaring! Nowadays, their descendants are still living there and are taking very good care of it.” “Yaring Palace was built in the reign of King Chulalongkorn by Phraya Bhibhitsena Martayathibodi Srisurasongkhram, who was Yaring’s ruler at that time. It is a two-storied, half brick half wood building. The architectural style is European, with local and Java decorative features.” 67

Nuch, who was an avid reader of novels, explained further, “A novel called Masaya, which was made into a television drama, was inspired by the writer’s visit to Yaring Palace. The writer is Phanomthian, or Mr. Chatchai Wisetsuwannaphum, a National Artist in Literature. He is a native of Sai Buri District.” “Is Phanomthian the pen name of the writer who also wrote Petchphra-Uma?” Matu asked. “Yes, Matu! That’s an adventure novel that is really fun to read! I’d recommend that you all read it sometime too!” “Right now, let’s go into the Palace to see how beautiful it is! Perhaps one of you may find inspiration to write another novel based on Yaring Palace!” 68

After visiting Yaring Palace, Matu told the children that they were to have lunch at Talohkapor Beach, which made the children very excited. Matu asked, “Do you know what Talohkapor means? Let’s find out the answer at the beach!” When they arrived at Talohkapor Beach, Nuch and Matu gave the children Khao Mok Gai, or Chicken Biryani to eat. They also asked the children to help set up the tables with bottles of water. “After you’ve finished your lunch, please put the rice wrappers in the black garbage bag, and the water bottles in another.” Nuch told the children while distributing lunch boxes to them. 69

After the children had taken their lunch, Matu took them for a walk on the beach. “Look! There are lots of sea shells! Can I take some home, Mr. Matu?” Muay asked. “No, I’m afraid you can’t. We must leave these sea shells on the beach, because if everybody takes some sea shells home, then one day, there won’t be any sea shells left on Talohkapor Beach at all. In any case, can anyone tell me what Talohkapor means?” 70

Moei put her hand up. Talohkapor Beach “It means lime bay!” “That’s correct. Talohkapor Photo : Ameen Naksewee is a name in the local Malay dialect. Taloh means bay. 71 Kapor means lime. So together it means a lime bay. It is told that in the old days, this is the place where people collected and burned sea shells until they became lime. The lime was then put on betel nuts for chewing. It is assumed that the shells used must have been cockle shells, as they are white and can be found abundantly in the bay. Fishermen collect them and eat the flesh. It’s also one of Yaring’s export products.”

After walking along the beach for a while, Wadee called the children to the other side of the beach. She introduced them to Mr. Loh, who was a Kolek boat builder, repairman, and painter. 72

Kolek Boat “Today Mr. Loh will show you how to paint a Kolek boat!” Photo : Ameen Naksewee Mr. Loh was a quiet man, who was not used to speaking much. Therefore Wadee explained the background and steps on the design and painting of a Kolek boat in his stead. “Kolek boats are the most beautiful traditional fishing boats. Kolek refers to the way a boat sways when floating in the sea. The designs used in painting Kolek boats are influenced by Thai, Malay, Java and Chinese traditions. They are mostly pictures of sea animals, such as crabs, fish, prawns, and cuttlefish, or mythical creatures from old literatures and traditions such as Garuda birds, golden peacocks, Naga or the Serpent, Hanuman or the Monkey God, and dragons.” 73

The children watched the demonstration of Kolek boat painting very attentively. Adel asked Mr. Loh, “Mr. Loh, how come you don’t sketch the design with a pencil first? How do you know what to draw on the boat then?” Mr. Loh smiled and said, “I’m quite used to it. I’ve been painting Kolek boats since I was fourteen. Now I’m more than fifty years old! I have all the designs in my head, and I can draw them just like that.” Adel put his thumbs up for Mr. Loh. “You are really super!” After watching Mr. Loh paint the boat to their satisfaction, the children then said good-bye to him. “Adel, please thank Mr. Loh on our behalf.” Wadee said. 74

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The bus took the children back to the Institute of Cultural Studies. Matu told the children to go to have a shower and do other personal chores. “Dinner will start at 6 o’clock. We have a lot of yummy food to eat like Boodoo sauce and Pak Nor or local vegetables, Kolek chicken from a famous shop, and fried mackerels. And these are only just samples! Right now, even I feel quite hungry!” After the children finished their big and delicious dinner as Matu had said, it was time for the campfire activity of exchanging stories about their home districts. 76

Matu had already arranged an opening in the courtyard, and lit a fire in the middle. The children gradually went to the place and sat down in a circle. Wadee started the “My Home, Your Home” campfire activity by asking all the children to introduce themselves before they took turns telling their stories. “Who would like to be first?” Wadee asked. Adel raised his hand. “I’d like to,” said he. “My name is Adel Chulamas. I come from Sai Buri District, Pattani. The district where I live has a lot of great things. We produce Boodoo sauce, for example, like what we all had for dinner today. It’s made from anchovies that were fermented with salt. Aside from that, we have an old palace called Saiburi Palace at Taluban Sub-district. The Palace was built by Java and local builders at the time that Phraya Suriyasunthorn Bowornbhakdi was the ruler of Sai Buri. Unfortunately, Saiburi Palace has now fallen into disrepair, but it still retains some of its former beauty.” 77

Mr. Wadeng Puteh Photo : Ameen Naksewee “In Sai Buri, there was also one famous person whom we all know about! He was my neighbor actually. I am talking about Mr. Wadeng Puteh from Sai Buri, who was a friend of His Majesty the King. He was the one who rowed the boat for the King when he went to inspect the canals in Sai Buri. Every time His Majesty came to this area, he always asked Mr. Wadeng to go see him at Thaksin Ratchaniwet Palace. Sadly, Mr. Wadeng passed away recently. Ah yes! Today at noon Ms. Nuch mentioned Mr. Phanomthian, the novelist who wrote Petchphra-Uma and Masaya. He is also another famous native of Sai Buri!” After Adel finished telling his story, the children gave him loud applause. 78

“That was excellent, Adel! Who wants to be next?” “Hello, my nickname is Joon! My full name is Phutiphat Benchasila. I live at Na Pradoo Sub-district, Khok Pho District, Pattani. Have you heard of Chang Hai Temple? My family goes to that temple regularly for merit-making ceremonies. The official name of Chang Hai Temple is Ratburana Temple. It was built more than 300 years ago by Phraya Kaemdam, a ruler of Saiburi. He invited a monk called the Venerable Luang Por Thuad to become the first abbot of the temple. People also referred to him as “the Monk who could change sea water into fresh water.” After he passed away, his disciples buried some of his bones in Chang Hai Temple, which has become a place of great reverence for Buddhists.” Chang Hai Temple Photo: Sirikorn Maneerin 79

After Joon finished his story, Moei did not waste any time, “I will be the next! Hello, everybody! My name is Piangkwan Limsakul. I live near Goddess Lim Ko Niao Shrine. It’s where the carved image of the Goddess Lim Ko Niao is kept, along with images of the God of Medicine, Goddess of the Sea, and several other gods that are worshipped by Chinese people. Every year on the full moon of the third month in the lunar calendar, a big festival to celebrate Goddess Lim Ko Niao is held. People carry the statue of Goddess Lim Ko Niao in a procession through the roads in downtown Pattani. A swimming event to cross the Pattani River is held at Dechanuchit Bridge. A fire-walking rite is also held in front of the Leng Ju Kiang Shrine.” 80

After all the children had told their stories of their home town, Matu said: “Let me tell you my story. My house is close to Pattani’s Central Mosque.” The children laughed when they saw Matu pretending to act like a primary school kid to tease them. “The Central Mosque of Pattani is the most beautiful mosque in Thailand. It was built in 1954 to be the center of religious activities for all Muslims. It is structured like the Taj Mahal in India. The main building is topped with a large dome in the center and four smaller domes at its corners. The Mosque’s hall has two side corridors. In the inner chamber, there is a tall and narrow lectern to be used by a Khatib, or a preacher who delivers the teachings of Islam before the Friday prayer. Drums used to be placed in the minarets at both sides of the Mosque. They were beaten as a signal for Muslims to go to the Mosque to perform religious ceremonies. Nowadays, loud speakers are used instead of drums.” The CoefnPtarattlaMnoi sque Photo: Nopparat Muneerat 81

Wadee said, “Let’s all give ourselves a big round of applause! Everybody was really great! After hearing all your stories, I feel so glad to be a resident of Pattani! From what you have told us, I don’t think there is any other place in Thailand that has so many important religious places that are worshipped by Buddhists, Muslims, and Chinese people all in one province like Pattani. We also have important historical places like Yarang Ancient Town. We have beautiful handicrafts like Chuan Tani woven cloth. We have unique local dialects such as Phithen dialect in Thung Yang Daeng District. Most importantly, we have a lot of delicious food! Can anyone name some for us?” “Payae Roti!” “Kolek chicken!” “Yarang candied velvet tamarind!” “Crispy Roti!” “Rojak vermicelli salad!” 82 “Khao Yam rice salad!”

The children good-naturedly competed to shout out the names of the food. “All right! You make me feel very hungry again with the food list! I think it’s about time we all went to bed. Sleep tight and have a good dream!” Wadee called for the end of the campfire activities. Adel looked through the window to see the crescent moon that was still smiling as it did the other night. Adel smiled back at the moon, and fell asleep happily. 83



Buku Siri Bahan Pembelajaran Maklumat Tempatan

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Pada malam bulan sabit tersenyum di tepi jendela, Adil sedang berbaring melihat bulan dan bintang-bintang kecil yang memancarkan kilauannya di atas langit. Apabila berfikir tentang keseronokan yang akan menemui pada besok hari, dia mengatakan sesuatu perlahan-lahan kepada diri sendiri sebelum terlena, “Besoklah akan bermulanya Kem Remaja Rumah Saya Rumah Kamu.” “Ek E Ek Au,” ayam jantan melengkung leher berkokok seperti biasa setiap pagi. Adil segera bangun dari tidur. Dia mandi dengan cepat dan segera berpakaian. Selepas itu, dia cepat-cepat makan nasi dagang sehingga tidak sempat merasai kelazatan makanan kegemarannya itu. Dia terus mengambil beg sekolahnya dan berkata kepada ibunya, “Mak, pergi hantar saya sekejap. Nanti saya ke kem lewat.” 87

Adil bertolak sehingga tiba di Institut Penyelidikan Kebudayaan Galyani Vadhana, Universiti Prince of Songkla bersama-sama dengan kawan-kawan yang lain. Institut tersebut merupakan tempat berkumpul pelajar-pelajar sekolah rendah dari wilayah Pattani yang akan menyertai aktiviti “Kem Rumah Saya Rumah Kamu Pattani Kita”. 88

“Adik-adik yang sudah sampai, sila daftar nama dan ambil seorang sebuah buku catatan di sini,” suara nyaring Kakak Wadee, pengurus kem tersebut memanggil kanak-kanak yang sedang berkumpul dan berbual-bual di hadapan bangunan. Kakak Wadee, Abang Matu dan Kakak Nuch mengajak kanak-kanak masuk ke dalam bilik mesyuarat. Mereka bertiga mulai memperkenalkan diri. “Selamat pagi, kakak bernama Wadee. Kakak bertugas sebagai pemandu pelancong yang akan membawa adik-adik ke tempat yang penting di wilayah Pattani kita.” “Selamat pagi, saya Abang Matu. Hari ini abang bertugas sebagai penghibur bagi adik-adik semua.” “Selamat pagi, saya Kakak Nuch, bertugas sebagai pengurus makanan bagi setiap penyerta kem. Kakak jamin semua orang mesti kenyang setiap kali makan.” 89

Selepas daripada kakak-kakak dan abang memperkenalkan diri mereka, Kakak Wadee memberitahu bahawa, “Aktiviti yang kita akan lakukan bersama, mulai dengan melawat ke tempat-tempat yang penting di wilayah Pattani. Adik-adik mesti mencatat cerita-cerita yang menarik di dalam buku catatan yang telah diberi. Apabila aktiviti mengelilingi api bermula pada malam nanti adik-adik diminta menceritakan keistimewaan kampung halaman sendiri kepada kawan-kawan seorang satu cerita.” 90

Abang Matu melaung dengan suara yang kuat, “Kakak Wadee, Kakak Wadee, bas sudah datang.” “Semua kanak-kanak sudah bersiap sedia?” Kakak Wadee tanya. “Semua sudah siap sedia,” kanak-kanak menjawab dengan suara yang gemuruh di dalam bilik mesyuarat. Selepas daripada semua orang sudah menaiki bas, Kakak Wadee memberitahu bahawa hari ini akan membawa kanak-kanak melawat sambil belajar ke tempat yang penting di daerah Muang Pattani dan daerah Yaring. 91

Ketika bas sedang melalui Jambatan Chalerm Prakiat, Kakak Wadee memberitahu kepada semua orang untuk memandang ke sebelah kiri. Di situ terdapat banyak perahu nelayan yang kecil dan yang besar. Terdapat perahu golek dan perahu tunda berwarna-warni yang sedang berlabuh di pelabuhan. 92

Kakak Wadee memberitahu bahawa, “Teluk Pattani merupakan teluk yang mempunyai kawasan yang luas, sesuai untuk dilabuh oleh kapal besar. Oleh kerana mempunyai tanjung yang menghulur ke dalam laut sebagai benteng semula jadi yang menyekat ombak dan ribut taufan, membuatkan Teluk Pattani sebagai tempat perlindungan untuk perahu nelayan tempatan dan kapal layar.” “Selain daripada menjadi pelabuhan yang masyhur pada Teluk Pattani zaman dahulu, Teluk Pattani juga merupakan kuala yang Gambar: Ameen Naksewee terbesar di Selatan Thai. Kuala ini subur dengan pelbagai sumber alam, yang terbanyak antaranya hutan bakau, ikan siakap, ikan krabok, ketam “Rumpai laut boleh makankah?” bunga, ketam nipah, udang galah, Kaemyui mengangkat tangan bertanya. kerang dan rumpai laut.” Kakak Wadee jawab, “Ya, memang boleh makan. Orang kampung mengambil rumapi laut untuk membuat kerabu rumpai. Rasanya sedap didahului dengan rasa masam, berikutan dengan manis dan sedikit pedas.” 93

Setelah bas bertolak turun dari jambatan, Kakak Wadee meminta Abang Adam, pemandu bas tersebut berhenti di tepi jalan bagi kanak-kanak turun melihat cara-cara membuat ladang garam. Kakak Wadee menceritakan bagi kanak-kanak bahawa, “Ladang garam Pattani merupakan satu-satunya ladang garam air laut yang tedapat di Selatan Thai. Ladang ini mempunyai sejarah 94

tersendiri iaitu garam laut diproseskan Ladang garam di sini sejak 400 tahun dahulu lagi. Cara membuat garam laut adalah Gambar: Ameen Naksewee mudah dengan menghisap air laut dan masukkan ke dalam ladang. Dibiarkan air alut tersebut kering sehingga meruap menjadi biji garam yang putih. Peladang garam akan mengautnya bertumpuk-tumpuk dan mengisinya ke dalam bakul. Selepas daripada itu, garam tersebut dibawa ke tepi jalan untuk dijual kepada peniaga.” “Adakah garam ini masin sama dengan serbuk garam di rumah saya?” Joon bertanya. “Cuba kamu rasalah,” Adil bersokong. “Cubalah rasa, kanak-kanak. Rasa dari longgok besar inilah,” kata Abang Karim, peladang garam yang datang mengizinkan kanak-kanak. Kanak-kanak terus mengambil garam dan memasukkannya ke dalam mulut masing-masing. “Terlalu masin.”

Abang Karim adalah peladang garam yang penyayang telah memberitahu kepada kanak-kanak bahawa, “Garam dari mana-manapun semua masin tetapi orang zaman dahulu mengatakan bahawa garam Pattani itu manis. Sebenarnya garam Pattani itu kurang masin daripada garam yang datang dari tempat lain. Oleh kerana air laut yang diambil dari Teluk Pattani untuk diproseskan menjadi garam itu telah dicampur dengan air tawar dari Sungai Pattani dan anak sungai Yaring membuatkan garam Pattani kurang masin sedikit daripada garam Phetchaburi atau Samut Sakhon. Walau bagaimanapun, garam Pattani kurang masin hanya sedikit sahaja. Bagaimanakah rasa garam ini? Ha ha ha ha,” Semua orang bergelak ketawa. Semua penyerta kem mengucap selamat tinggal kepada Abang Karim sebelum menaiki kereta untuk ke destinasi seterusnya. 96

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Tidak berapa lama, bas yang bertolak melalui Jalan Pattani-Narathiwat pun berhampiran dengan Masjid Kersek. Abang Matu memberitahu kanak-kanak untuk membuat persediaan melawat Masjid Kersek. Apabila turun dari bas, Kakak Wadee membawa kanak-kanak berjumpa dengan Abang Soh yang sedang menunggu kedatangan mereka di bawah pokok. “Assalamualaikum dan salam sejahtera semua. Abang sangat gembira kerana adik-adik semua datang ke sini. Di sini merupakan tempat yang bersejarah. Abang akan memberitahu kepentingan tempat ini. Abang ingin mulai dengan soalan dahulu, Siapa dapat memberitahu nama bangunan yang diperbuat daripada bata ini?” Adil segera angkat tangan mendahului orang lain, “Ini adalah Masjid Kersek. Ia merupakan masjid yang pertama bagi kita dan merupakan masjid yang diperintah bina oleh Raja supaya menjadi tempat beribadat orang Islam.” 98

“Betul, sungguh pandai. Siapa nama adik?” Abang Soh tanya. “Nama saya Adil.” Abang Soh menyambung, “Adil dalam bahasa Arab bermakna saksama.” 99