เรื่องเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน

Hor Mok: Sufficiency Following the King’s Path Witchayuth Sakulwisal Translated by Fatimah Jeharsae



Thai Tales from the Deep South Hor Mok: Sufficiency Folowing the King’s Path Witchayuth Sakulwisal One morning, I woke up feeling drowsy. The bright sunlight shining through my windowpanes made me realize it must have been late morning already. I walked over to open the windows and saw my father laying banana leaves on the rubber rail beside the house. “Dad! Why are you drying the banana leaves?” I belowed out. “YourMumneedsitforHorMok 1,”hereplied. Feeling half-asleep, I headed back to bed. Suddenly, my mother caled out for breakfast, and I had to wash my face, clean my teeth, and proceed to the dining table instead. We had “Khao Tom Kui” that morning. It was simply rice boiled in plain water, to which Mum would occasionally add pumpkin cubes or diced taro. The Khao Tom is served with assorted condiments, such as salted eggs, salted anchovies, smal fried fish, and stir-fried vegetables. My mother’s outstanding cooking skil neverchanged.Al herdishesweresavory,delicious, and ful of flavors, even without added MSG. I stuffed myself with two bowls of boiled rice, and that filed me up perfectly. 1 wcHuidroreryrMiannogbkeanoa(fanplaoteslresniabavlteeivsk.eilTnyhdiHsckoofcMloecoaokvn)eusrteacfnerdresapmrtootaeanindSsog.uatlha-nEgaasltaAresiaclnasdsiischincgoroekdeidenbtys, satdedaemdintog aa Witchayuth Sakulwisal 153

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน After the meal, while I was gathering the dishes to be washed, I heard the sound of coconut scraping from the kitchen. Both of my parents were busy preparing ingredients for Hor Mok - Mum was cleaning basil leaves and young noni leaves while Dad was grating coconut. Therefore, I rushed to finish my washing up in order to help them with the cooking. Mum asked me to cut some lemongrass and dig up galangal roots from our vegetable garden next to the house to make curry paste. I grabbed a knife and a smal spade and walked towards the garden located just steps from our house. As I walked past my grandmother’s vegetable plot, I spotted her busily moving up and down the patch where green lettuce was growing. I asked her what she was doing. “I’mcatchingtheselittlethieves.”Shereplied while picking up snails and caterpilars which had sneaked into the plot and feasted on her lettuce. I laughed and teased Grandma that I was going to steal her galangal and lemongrass as wel. She gave me a smile of approval and stood up to help me colect the herbs. While I was digging the galangal and cutting the stalks of lemongrass, Grandma told me that in the old days, she had suffered hardship raising her children because of her poverty-stricken condition. Fortunately, she was thrifty and cautious about saving. Apart from her main income from rubber tapping, she planted vegetables and sold them to gain extra cash. Through her frugality, 154 Hor Mok: Sufficiency Following the King’s Path

Thai Tales from the Deep South 155 Grandma could afford to send her daughter, my Mom, to university to earn a bachelor’s degree. Until now, Grandma stil grew vegetables and my parents helped her plant the seeds and look after them. Grandma preferred to grow chemical-free vegetables. She used chicken manure from Dad’s chicken coops as fertilizer. Hence, we always had organic vegetables at home. After my errand in the garden was completed, I brought galangal and lemongrass to Mum. Dad marched towards the large earthen water jar nearby the kitchen and delved out a big snakehead fish. He hit it on the head, removed the scales, and fileted it into smal pieces. “Where did you get the snakehead fish?” I asked with curiosity. “He got it from a fishhook in the swamp nearby our house yesterday,” Mum replied for Dad. Subsequently, I helped my mother tear the banana leaves to the right size, sharpen wooden skewers to be used as pins, and make the ‘Krathong’ or banana leaf bowls. My father made coconut milk by squeezing shredded coconut flesh mixed with water. Then, Mum put slices of fish filet into a pot, folowed by coconut milk, eggs, and curry paste. She seasoned the mixture with fish sauce and sugar while stirring it until it thickened. Fragrant basil and young noni leaves were laid in the bottom of each ‘Krathong’ before the fish curry mixture was careful y Witchayuth Sakulwisal

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน placed inside. Final garnishes of chili and julienned kaffir lime leaves were added before the steaming process. During the time we cooked, Mom said to me, “You see, dear, almost every ingredient we used today is free. We don’t need to buy any vegetables because we colected them from our garden. We grow our coconut trees, and the snakehead fish is from the swamp near our house. Even the eggs are from the hens raised by your Dad. We don’t have to spend a penny for our Hor Mok today. This is because your Dad and I base our lives on the Sufficiency Economy Philosophy of King Rama IX. Apart from that, your Grandma has also adopted the same philosophy which had been instiled in me since a young age. These are the reasons why your Dad and I live simple lives, sufficient and thrifty. So that one day, our beloved son, we can afford to send you to a medical school.” Mom ended her talk with a tease about my childhood dream. I used to tel my mom that when I grew up, I wanted to be a doctor because I would like to help sick people. Having that conversation with Mom, I realized that I should learn more about the principles of the Sufficiency Economy. After tidying up the kitchen, I went to Dad’s office to use the computer to search for 156 Hor Mok: Sufficiency Following the King’s Path

Thai Tales from the Deep South information about King Bhumibol’s Philosophy of Sufficiency Economy and his royal initiatives. I found that His Majesty was concerned about the Thai people, particularly those residing in remote rural areas. Resulting from his regular visits to remote communities, His Majesty acquired knowledge and a better understanding of local problems and adversity. Thousands of projects were created folowing the royal initiatives in order to ease people’s difficulties and suffering. Most projects focus on problems of soil, water, forest, and other related issues affecting agriculture, which is the main occupation of the Thai people. In my homeland, Narathiwat Province, there are several royal initiative projects. The first one is caled the Klaeng Din project (the soil aggravation project), an approach to solve soil acidity turning wastelands into arable farmland. Another project is a water preservation development to be used as an abundant water resource at the Phikun Thong Development Study Center. This knowledge center for land reform in the peat swamp area has a complete range of activities, such as analyzing and testing plants, livestock care, providing technical knowhow, agricultural training, and lectures on the principles of Sufficiency Economy Philosophy. Witchayuth Sakulwisal 157

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายดา้ มขวาน As I explored further, I also learnt that the core of HM the King’s Sufficiency Economy Philosophy is to live in moderation and peace. The term “Sufficiency Economy” does not mean that one must constantly be frugal and unhappy. It means that one should lead a reasonably comfortable life, without excess, or overindulgence in luxury, but enough just like my family that had adopted this middle path. We felt extremely grateful for His benevolence. Therefore, I am determined that from now on, I wil take the late King as my role model. I wil adhere to and employ His moderate paths in self-reliance, self-sufficiency, thriftiness, living a simple life, and being honest in my work, my daily life, and my future family life. I would also like to spread the knowledge of this philosophy to others. The delicate and appetizing aroma of Hor Mok touched my nose, folowed by Dad’s caling. “My dear boy, the Hor Mok is ready, come and eat it now.” I walked out of the room to the dining table. The Hor Mok went down wel with my family. I felt a sense of happiness that was derived from adhering to the “Sufficiency Economy” or the so-caled “Middle Path”. I was proud to be a subject under the reign of King Rama IX, our beloved “King of Sufficiency”. 158 Hor Mok: Sufficiency Following the King’s Path

The Reconnected Ties Anusorn Srikhamkhwan Translated by Fatimah Jeharsae



Thai Tales from the Deep South The Reconnected Ties Anusorn Srikhamkhwan “You’ve forgotten about me, about your 161 birthplace, but you don’t have to keep my grandson away from his root!” That was what Che1, his father, reasoned to Surachet. This motive overruled the long-winded argument that they had been having about the circumcision for Surachet’s son. As Surachet contemplated his decision, he resented the fact that he finaly accepted his father’s proposal to have his son get a traditional religious circumcision or Sunat in his hometown, Pattani, rather than at a hospital in Bangkok. He had no idea where his father got the punch line about staying true to the root from, or how he unguardedly agreed to the idea. He was frustrated with himself. He could not believe that while the world has progressed, his father was still a conservative man. Who on earth would command an Islamic religious circumcision for their sons when they’ve come of age now? Who would want to risk having old Tok Mudeng2’s shaky hands 1ofCThheailainsda. spoken vernacular Malay word for father used commonly in the Deep South 2SoTuothkoMf Tuhdaeinlagndis. a traditional local male circumciser performing the operation on boys in the Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน to make an incision around his son’s penis? Didn’t Che watch the news on TV about severe accidents from local circumcision? As a matter of fact, Che was supposed to be more rational and forward-thinking than people his age. At the age of 80, he always folowed recent news and current affairs. A paradox of this plan was that his father stil performed the much frown-upon Mak Yong3 dance rituals. Acting as a spiritual healing shaman was considered contradictory to the Islamic principles. About this profession of his, Che once stood on his ground and firmly said that tradition and religion must be separated. Yet, this time he was being odd. How come Che could not even distinguish tradition from sanitary reasons! As he accidentaly promised his father, Surachet reluctantly sent Suradet, his 8-year-old son, to Pattani two weeks prior to the circumcision ceremony. He wanted to get the boy accustomed to the family and the local surroundings because Suradet only visited Pattani once when he was two years old. This early visit would make him feel more comfortable and have no fright towards the ritual. Despite the convenience of transportation between Bangkok and Pattani: with daily buses, trains, and airplanes, it was stil quite hard for him as a lecturer of Laws in the university to make a frequent visit. During the school break, his son would also be busy with extra tutoring classes. His son’s continuous education was another reason Surachet was reluctant to host a circumcision ceremony in his hometown. H3staiMntedauok-fBKYuedoldnahgnitsatinsr.oaIotttwrsa.adsitbiaonnnaeldfobrymthoef Pdaannc-Me-adlraaymsiaanfrIosmlamnoicrtPhearrntyMbeaclaayussiea,ofpiatrstaicnuilmairsltyatnhde vtMhilraloakugYgeohsnatghsewwuaessleloaonsfcietnhuessotermdaedfoimtrioohnreeaalltirhnaegdaipltiiunorgnpaorlistceuisat.ileI.tsT,ihnbevusoteltvhheeesyatlraianrnegclreairtdugaaenllysciafnrrgoewasnntideldlsppuripraoictntpictooesddsaeiysn.sitohne 162 The Reconnected Ties

Thai Tales from the Deep South 163 Even when it was time to say goodbye, Surachet was stil worried that his son would not get along with life in the countryside. However, that was not the case. As it turned out, Suradet was absolutely fine and had adjusted himself wel to the new environment. Every time Surachet caled his son, the boy always told him about exciting experiences in Pattani. Those stories were uneasy to Surachet’s ears, so he stopped caling his son eventualy. Surachet traveled by plane to Hat Yai International Airport. He rented a car to drive to his father’s home in Pattani in the evening of the day before the ritual. As soon as he parked, there were many cars in front of the house. A lump of annoyance formed up in his throat. He vented out his frustration as soon as he saw his father. “Che! Why is the event so big? What are these, Three tents? How many cows were kiled for this ceremony? Come on, this is too much! I certainly can’t afford to waste my money for this common ritual,” Surachet vented out a series of complaints before the old man could even open his mouth to explain. “There, a Nang Talung4 theater! How much money did you spend? Why do you have to waste your money on this ceremony so much? Is that meant to be for yourself, or your grandson? I’ve told you already that I wanted to keep it simple, haven’t I?” Surachet continued blurting out. 4atinrrNaetdhaifintosiguocnnaTdshaeali)uns,nalCognandimgstabbaloeutedrnniagadp,iiostMipaouannllaaaalryb.ssbtiyrael,evaioanftdisohInnadodofonPweasptituaap.lupNneatgrn,ygafrSmooemuatnhSseoru“ntlheceairttynhweTrhh”eari(el“altnehdae.tshSheiarmdipoluawprppaelratt”ys NtcSheoaenunttmighmeutearstnilecurinTasgnhi.ainsiTlsashlinoezdwea’.lscyTtodphriuespaapppneepdrtesftoahrraemirneaagunbmdceieaecdnacecuoesnoesafiirstetlisessaoecthpfoeamtrrhpaelatiencpdadutpbeapydre.eats,wtythphiietceanlsalcyrrrebaeetnotwrd,euetrhnineg1a5tchteoarns,dhaon5wd0. Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน The old man seemed to run out of patience. If it were not for a roomful of guests, he would have shouted back at his son. “I didn’t mean to arrange such a huge ceremony. But when people knew about my grandson’s getting circumcised, a lot of help flooded in from my friends, neighbors, and patients who were cured by me. What would you have me do? Not to mention the shadow puppet show, it was offered without any cost by my close friend - Uncle Deng. Did you completely forget about my close friend? Even the tents and the cows - al these were offered and supported by our relatives,” his father explained once he got the chance. “There are also a lot of people coming to help prepare for the big day. Why don’t you go say helo to them in the backyard?” Advised his father. “Later,Che.I’vegottorest,”refusedSurachet. Surachet walked away from his father and went to a bamboo bench under the neighbor’s mangosteen tree. He did not yet sit down for a minute when his son ran up to him with a red bantam in his arms. Surachet was not surprised at his son’s delight in his face. However, he did not understand why that boy was holding the bantam. “Look, Dad! This is Robert. I got it from Bae5 Air. Robert is so smart and talented. He crows a lot 5 Bae, a Pattani vernacular variant for ‘Abang’, meaning older brother in the Malay language. 164 The Reconnected Ties

Thai Tales from the Deep South 165 when he stays with me. But when he was kept by Bae Air, he wouldn’t make a sound! Fortunately, I took him in before he would be put in Tom Yum6 soup. You know what? I took him to a crowing contest and was awarded the second runner-up. I got a warm duvet blanket as a reward. Then, Bae Air wanted Robert back and offered me 2,000 baht! No way, I would return my Robert to him.” “A bantam contest?” Surachet asked in amazement. “That’sright,Dad!It’slikeabirdcooingcontest,” said the little boy. “I see! There were no bantam contests when I was young, only those for Javanese doves or red- whiskered bulbuls,” remarked Surachet. “Whoa! Speaking of the red-whiskered bulbuls, there are plenty of them at Uncle Soree’s house. His birds are superb and always won awards,” the boy said with excitement. “And, do you know what, Dad? Uncle Soree is such a ferocious bird trainer. He goes tapping rubber from midnight every day and finishes at dawn. He then goes to a teahouse to have morning tea, and he would go home to train his birds. No wonder why al of them are magnificent cooers.” rfgh6reraTadesgodcirmithaesinnloYttisrpsu,ipgesmipiucnpceehisinrsasaT.asnhdltaeyimhpleaeornnbodgsf.rhTgaoesosntm,eakrynoaudufmfsisrloyisluiumrcsheseaodlrueaipanc,vteteuhsrse,iusgaebadlrlloyabtnhycg.oiatoTslkh,deeldiimsstwoienuijctpuhtiihcsseoh,atrlfiasimsnohpdms(sapaourduacerewfw,lnaai)tvn.hodTufocrremrsus,hswyhuiientmhd- Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน “Why wouldn’t I know about this, boy. This is my hometown. I am aware that rubber tappers work at night and rest during the day. It’s not because they are lazy but it’s the way they work.” “Realy? If you know about this, why is it that you never told me before?” Suradet asked a rhetorical question and suddenly changed the subject, “Anyway, Dad, is it a great thing to be a Mak Yong shaman? I saw a lot of people coming for Grandpa’s help. When they heard about my Sunat ceremony, they immediately offered support for the ritual. They said it wouldn’t do not to hold a grand circumcision ceremony for Grandpa’s grandson.” “It’s certainly not about Grandpa being a Mak Yong shaman, my child. Wel, you’d better go and play with Bae Air now. I’d like to speak to our relatives in the kitchen.” At the reception party prior to the ritual day, what topic could be more interesting than the circumcision experiences of the men in the vilage? For it had been many years since Surachet last visited his hometown, he automaticaly became the target of the conversation. The vilagers made fun of him because Surachet used to run away from getting circumcised and hid himself behind a bush. Another amusing anecdote was when Surachet’s penis shrunk into the size of a pinky. There was nearly nothing left for Tok Mudeng to cut. But the most embarrassing story seemed to be about how Surachet used to carry around two coconut shels with him after being circumcised. “Why coconut shels?” Meena, a young girl who was passing by to get some ice, but stopped to listen to a joke, could not help raising a question. 166 The Reconnected Ties

Thai Tales from the Deep South 167 Soree impetuously answered with no consideration of the interlocutor. “Chet was too sensitive to stimulation. When he got an erection, it made the wound sore, especialy after being newly circumcised. To release his nerve, he needed to knock on his knee with the coconut shels. You see, only one shel won’t do for him, cheneededtwococonutshelsknockingonbothknees. Unbelievably, he could be easily turned on by just seeing a female goat passing by.” Soree was the only one who could laugh at his own joke. When he noticed that something was wrong as Meena started to look awkward, his laughter died instantly. To his embarrassment, Soree immediately asked the young lady to leave and changed the topic. “Wel, the circumcision ceremonies held in our vilage are decent ones, not too ostentatious like those in other vilages. Not to mention the one held in Narathiwat, the one which the family organized an elephant procession in the opening ceremony. This grand fashion had been carrying out in the family for generations. Last year, when they could not find an elephant for the ceremony, the circumcision wound of the boy would not dry out. They had to hold the ceremony once more with the elephant.” “Their ancestors were mahouts. The elephants had always been present in the ceremonial parade. It was a mistake letting go of the tradition. The family ought to make sure there was an elephant for the ritual last year,” Che, who just joined the conversation, inserted his thought. “It’s good you’re here, Che! May I ask? Tomorrow morning, before Tok Mudeng circumcise your grandson, can I shoot the gun as the signal for the ceremony?” Soree requested. Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน “No, no! I wil have Pencak Silat 7. Gunshot is not our custom. Don’t get it mixed up!” Che sharply objected Soree’s request. As Che took part in the conversation, the joking and laughing turned to the settling of tomorrow’s agenda. The conversation flew like a whirlwind. When the sound of the prelude drum and gong loudened, everyone realized that it was already 8 p.m., the time when the shadow puppet performance began playing. Surachetexcusedhimselftotakehissontowatch NangTalung. In front of the shadow puppet theatre, Suradet could not understand the show which was performed in the local Malay language. Therefore, Surachet entertained his son by teling the stories of his childhood. He also explained to his son that what they were watching then was caled ‘Nang Talung’ or ‘Wayang Kulit’ in the Pattani Malay language. “When I was young, the shadow puppet performance was one of my favorite shows. Uncle Deng’s troupe always accompanied your Grandpa’s Mak Yong troupe. Earlier today, you asked me if a Mak Yong shaman was so great, right? Mak Yong itself is not that significant. It is just a form of folk dance-drama like Manora – a traditional Southern-Thai performance we have seen on TV. What makes it truly unique is that Mak Yong is also a traditional spiritual healing for the unknown or incurable ilnesses. The sick ones would come to Grandpa and ask him to perform Mak Yong dance to heal them. Many of them were cured miraculously. You see, traditional 7ifbonoPgrdemycnociinsuacnkuotsrSreipedilosaa,rtanthitdsiensagtunebrsujmtermcikubtesrtsuoe,alalglaltrytataeprcrepkmf.leinrfosgrtaoanpcdrlaothsfesrsooswfioirnnegalalitnceodamdInpddeitotiiontinevsetioasniwlameta.apIrtotiniasrlyaa.rfEutsvl.le-Irbnyondpeyairgftihgobhfotitunhrge- 168 The Reconnected Ties

Thai Tales from the Deep South 169 healers can cure some diseases which cannot be cured by the modern medicine. For this reason, people have a considerable amount of respect and deep gratitude to your Grandpa. He is 80 years old now and has been living in this vilage for ages. Grandpa is considered a reliable local senior in the community. Undoubtedly, there are lots of people who are wiling to help him in whatever business he has. Unlike me, I left this vilage years ago…. If it were for me to host the ceremony, it would be hard to imagine how many people would come. By the way, are you happy living here, son?” Not a sound from the little boy but silence. Surachet turned to look at his son. The boy had nodded off to sleep. It was 9 a.m. in the main hal of the house, Tok Mudeng and Che sat beside Suradet. At first, Surachet was supposed to sit next to his son to give him encouragement, but he refused and proposed Che to take over the role instead. The three of them in the ritual were encircled with a cloth partition as high as the waist so that the guests could observe what was going on in the ceremony easily. The observation area was reserved for men only. Surachet was also one of the spectators outside the partition. Suradet’s facial expressions were ful of fear, and his penis had shrunk. Tok Mudeng, holding a scalpel in his hand, tried to give the boy a friendly banter to ease up his anxiety. He puled the tip of the boy’s penis. “Don’t be scared. I wil not cut it yet. Let’s wait for the Pencak Silat to finish first,” said Tok Mudeng. Outside the house, two men gracefuly performed the beautiful Pencak Silat, portraying an exquisite fighting form with Anusorn Srikhamkhwan

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายดา้ มขวาน percussive footwork and intricate body movements. A crowd of guests stood there and watched the performance. Melow, pleasant music accompanied the martial art helped elevate the atmosphere. The opponents moved harmoniously in a slow pace to find the right moment to strike. The movements were gradualy faster, and so was the tempo of the percussion instruments, making it more fascinating and exciting for the audience to watch. While everyone was deeply engaged with the show, a sonorous sound of the gong reverberated unexpectedly. “Bong!” The sounds of the gong drew Suradet’s attention away from the ritual. As soon as he looked up for the source of the sound, Tok Mudeng made a steady cut. “Chop!” There was not even a single cry of pain from the boy. Surachet recaled that the circumcision actualy did not hurt him either. The pain would begin later, perhaps because of the skilful Tok Mudeng or the distracting gong’s sound. But once Surachet noticed the bleeding at the tip of his son’s penis, he turned away and rushed out of the ceremony. “Where in the hell are you going?” Che bellowed to Surachet. “Where else, Che? I’m going to get two nice coconut shels for my son.” 170 The Reconnected Ties

The Day Love EBildooaml-sFiitnr:Our Homeland Heedayah Benkob Translated by Fatimah Jeharsae



Thai Tales from the Deep South TEhideaDl-aFyitrL:ove Blooms in Our Homeland Heedayah Benkob One day during late Ramadan, after finishing the 173 morning prayer and the supplication, I purposely volunteered to clean up Ayah’s (Father) little office, where dust had begun to take over. In that room, I coincidently came across a family photo album which, al these times, had been lying in the drawer of Ayah’s desk. Looking at the first photograph: an old but a meaningful one, a wave of nostalgia from my sweet childhood some ten years ago swept over me. The photo was taken on the Eid al-Fitr day (the so- caled “Festival of Breaking the Fast”, a religious holiday celebrated by Muslims worldwide to mark the end of the month-long dawn-to-sunset fasting of Ramadan). On that day, my family members, which included Ayah (father), Maa (mother), my ten siblings and myself, took a family photo at the front porch of the mosque. I could remember wel that in my hometown, the Eid day was not only a celebration for Muslims but also for my friends who are Buddhist-Thai and Thais of Chinese descent as well. Everyone from near and far in the neighborhoods of my vilage gathered around to Heedayah Benkob

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน celebrate, congratulate, and express their goodwil towards one another, bridging the gap of differences. To me, it was the best time of the year, metaphoricaly like when the flowers of pure love were in ful bloom throughout the land. That photograph also swept my mind away to the old days when I was only seven years old. After the sun bid farewel to the horizon, the sound of Adhan, uttered in Arabic, began to louden and cal al Muslims to gather at the mosque. It worked as an alarm for everyone in the vilage to be aware and ready to welcome the next morning which would bring an auspicious day. On the morning of Eid, everyone in the vilage walked joyfuly to the mosque in groups. Some who lived further away would ride a bicycle or a motorcycle to join the crowd. It was noticeable that the vilagers’ faces were glowing with happiness more than usual. A little while after everyone assembled, the sparse mosque became crowded with hundreds of visitors who were filed with delight. Everyone in al ages smiled at each other. They also made merit or Nuree (in Southern dialect) by bringing several kinds of potluck meals to share with others at the mosque. I stil clearly remember the day Maa prepared her distinctive Southern dishes for Nuree dinner on the occasion of breaking fast in Ramadan. That day in the morning, Maa and I went to the market to get some fresh ingredients. She always told me that cooking has been considered a significant part of Muslims’ culture. She taught me to make sure that the ingredients are of the finest quality for Nuree meals. As we prepare these meals, we need to be attentive to every step of the 174 Eid al-Fitr: The Day Love Blooms in Our Homeland

Thai Tales from the Deep South 175 cooking. We should prepare every dish with utmost finesse and turn out delicious food cooked using original methods. Our efforts in offering high-quality meals to other people would be memorable and considered a meritorious deed. Otherwise, if our food were not so good, we might be blamed, and such carelessness could be seen as committing a sin. Maa’s teachings always motivated and inspired me to learn and understand the importance of being a giver. At least, by helping my mother cook on that day, I learned the principles of traditional Deep-South cuisine, which alowed me, as a local Muslim lady, to pass on this culinary heritage to the next generation. Those special dishes range from ‘Nasi Kerabu’ (Southern Thai style spicy rice salad with mix vegetables), ‘Nasi Dagang’ (Steamed rice with coconut milk and fenugreek seeds served with fish curry), ‘Ketupat Sotong’ (Coconut milk boiled squids stuffed with glutinous rice), to my most favorite dish, ‘Chicken Golek’ (Griled marinated chicken basted with a spiced coconut milk gravy), a famous and unique specialty for its irresistible aroma and rich flavors. After finishing Maghrib prayer (sunset prayer) that night, everyone who performed the prayer in the mosque was invited to have dinner to break the fast together. A variety of colorful and tasty dishes and beverages were prepared by the ‘Kidmat Team’ or local voluntary residents at which al are welcomed to join the fast breaking as wel. Before the meal, Ayah, my father, as an Imam leading prayers at the mosque, took the lead to recite the Dua (the supplication), and informed everyone to wait for the official announcement of the sighting of the new crescent which would mark the end of Ramadan and the Eid al-Fitr day. The announcement would be broadcast on Heedayah Benkob

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายดา้ มขวาน TV in about an hour by the Sheikhul Islam Office (the Islamic Council of Thailand). That night, it was the most delightful moment for me that I could notice Ayah’s widest smile for the first time. This smile is imprinted in my memory until today. Soon after, the moment everyone was eagerly anticipating had arrived, when the large TV screen at the mosque showed Sheikul Islam (Head of Islamic Council of Thailand) making an official declaration that the Hilal or the crescent moon had been sighted marking the end of Ramadan, and that the next day was the Eid day. Right after the announcement, joy filed the room. Some people even shed tears of happiness for the big day to come. My friends and I also leaped with joy for the festive day to come to our homeland. To welcome the important day, Ayah invited the mosque committee and the elderly seniors of the vilage to discuss hosting a big celebration for the Eid day. There were dozens of local volunteers both men and women (one of them was me) to help with the arrangement of the venue, sound system, and al facilities (some of which were offered by our non-Muslim neighbors). Even though it took many hours to complete the preparation and it was quite exhausting, my heart felt great delight. It felt even better when I spotted happy smiles across my parents’ faces, coupled with complements from the elderly. It felt wonderful that even though I was just a little Muslim girl, I was appreciated. I couldn’t put my feeling into words. 176 Eid al-Fitr: The Day Love Blooms in Our Homeland

Thai Tales from the Deep South The sound of Adhan Subhi (a morning prayer cal) caling from the distance produced a simple yet beautiful melodies of people’s lives on their special day. The sun was stil in its slumber on the horizon, letting hundreds of twinkling stars dance around the dark sky. A cool breeze gently blew a sweet scent of local food and desserts permeating the whole area. In a few hours, the color of the anticipating day would cast the land into great delight and peacefulness. Folowing the sound of Adhan, everyone in the vil age, adults and children, gathered at the mosque to perform a prayer led by Ayah, the Imam of the mosque. Listening to the beautiful and powerful voice of Ayah reciting the Quran, I couldn’t help but wel up especialy when it came to an Ayat (a verse of the Quran) which he used to teach me every night. The key message of the Ayat said “O mankind, indeed We have created you from male and female and made you peoples and tribes that you may know one another. ….” The essence of that verse reminded me to understand the differences among mankind. I also learned how to live peacefuly in diversity having love and empathy to strengthen relationships among people. The profound impact of that day’s prayer brought to my cheeks tears of joy and gratitude. Heedayah Benkob 177

เร่ืองเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน After finishing the morning prayer, the time when the sun shone its golden halo across the Eastern skyline, everyone went back home to prepare for their attires, food and drinks. They also rechecked the cleanliness and tidiness of their homes to welcome their visiting relatives and guests. Tons of chores were miraculously completed with the help of vilagers’ congenial spirits. The chanting of Takbir (an Islamic Arabic expression to praise and show gratitude to Alah) echoing aloud throughout the land on the Eid day or so-caled Raya Day among Thai Muslims created the atmosphere of a strong sense of unity and solidarity among vilagers. Everyone unanimously wore colorful traditional Muslim- style outfits and traveled to the mosque early to congratulate each other. They shared good stories, asking for forgiveness, and gave each other happy smiles. After performing the Eid prayer, everyone listened to the Khutbah (a sermon) delivered by the Imam (my father) under the topic of “How to Build Love in a Multicultural Society”. The sermon was also broadcast via the community radio channel. I could say that my father’s speech was part of an important means of communication to foster unity, solidarity, and mutual respect in this multicultural community. I also believed that al positive movements that happened in our vilage were driven by the hearts and minds of everyone in the community, rippling with the same beat for years. 178 Eid al-Fitr: The Day Love Blooms in Our Homeland

Thai Tales from the Deep South Eventualy, al those nostalgic memories came to an end when I felt the warm drops of tear roling down my face. That old precious photo was now soaked. The tears I shed were tears of nostalgia. I deeply missed Ayah, my father who unexpectedly left us eternaly just a few days after the Raya day that year. The only thing I could do at that moment was to hold the picture tight to my chest, sobbing and trembling in his room while the cleaning was left unfinished. “Oh, my dearest Ayah, even though, deep inside, my heart is so desolate and in pain, I would like you to know that I am so proud and grateful to be your youngest daughter. Please be assured that every effort, dedication, and self-sacrifice til the last breath you devoted to build love and peacefulness in this diverse community wil be continued and succeeded by Maa, your ten children, everyone in the vilage, and me, your daughter. And of course, all profound and precious memories about you wil always be with us and this faraway land ever after. “Oh, my beloved motherland, on Eid day this year, I wish I could see the blossoms of pure love grow and bloom throughout the land we cal home, forever’. Heedayah Benkob 179



A Non-Local Teacher Paseeyah Asae Translated by Wilaiwan Ka-J



Thai Tales from the Deep South A Non-Local Teacher Paseeyah Asae I am a new in service teacher, non-local, Assigned by the Principal to teach first-grade pupils and to be the librarian. Scheduled by the Principal in the early afternoon, Prayers of different faiths are separately performed. A student spoke to me, “My dear Teacher, I’m a Christian, not performing Buddhist prayers.” I told her to go to the library and sit in silence, Watching her senior Muslim pupils performing their prayers. Buddhists, Christians, and Muslims are al brothers, Growing up they wil understand my intentions. Before finishing the last class on Fridays, I always give my students homework assignments. The Christian girl tels me, “On Sunday, I’l go to Church with Mom and do my homework there.” Paseeyah Asae 183

เรื่องเล่าจากปลายดา้ มขวาน Every Monday morning, She submits her homework to me and explains what she learnt at Church. “Jesus Christ wil redeem believers of their sins. Mom said, He taught us to love everyone.” One afternoon, After finishing their prayers to Lord Buddha, A first-grade girl and her classmates walked over to me. In her hands my bag containing my Muslim prayer robe. While I was teaching Muslim pupils how to pray in the library, The girl handed me the bag and said, “My dear Teacher, I bring you your prayer robe.” I asked her a question with a smile, “Did anyone tel you to bring it to me?” She replied, “No. I did it myself.” 184 A Non-Local Teacher

Thai Tales from the Deep South Earlier, During lunch time, I was praying in the first-grade classroom. Surrounding me were pupils waiting for their turn to pray, laying down their praying cloth. One spoke with a loud voice, another one gave a word of warning, “Keep your voice down, the teacher is praying.” Those innocent eyes were observing me. Despite not looking into theirs, I could see, Reflected blissful and naive minds, such sheer happiness. Metaphoricaly, children are pure lilies. I finished my prayer, And a girl gave me a question, “Why do you pray, dear Teacher?” “I pray to meet Alah.”, was my reply. The girl kept asking, “Why do you need to meet Him?” Smiling, I said, “I meet him to pray for your blessings - to excel at your study and behave wel.” Paseeyah Asae 185

เรื่องเลา่ จากปลายดา้ มขวาน One morning, A big Chinese steamed bun appeared on my desk. I asked my pupils to whom it belonged. A boy, smiling and making eye contact with me, said, “It’s from me. I give it to you.” Smiling, I asked him, “What’s the stuffing? It’s such a big bun.” “Chicken filing, I know Muslims don’t eat pork.” Smiling, I thanked the little boy. My heart was ful of joy. Truthfuly, the stream of encouragement keeps flowing, the currents are filed with respect. The majority of people are Buddhist, A girl is Christian, And I am the only Muslim teacher. We learn about each other and honoring our differences. I teach them, and the other way round. 186 A Non-Local Teacher

A Tale from the Red Land Siriprapa Chamnanturakit Translated by Asst. Prof. Dr. Yusop Boonsuk



Thai Tales from the Deep South A Tale from the Red Land Siriprapa Chamnanturakit When talking about Thailand’s red zone, yes, I wonder if you have heard of it. It is an area in the four districts of Chana, Thepha, Saba Yoi, and Nathawi, across Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat, and Songkhla Provinces. Different people’s negative impressions of this region might not differ much from one another; and yes, it is usualy something about explosions or southern terrorists! In fact, these frightening imageries instil ed in many people’s minds are obscuring the area’s hidden gems of beauty. And I must admit that I was one of those who had such scary imagination. It was so until I moved back to pursue my study at a school in Pattani. This relocation taught me the true meaning of an old proverb that says “words of ten mouths do not equate an eye seeing, and ten eyes seeing does not equate a hand touching” (probably equivalent to pictures worth a thousand words). I am very fond of this multicultural coexistence beautified with arts and cultures, a reflection of local identities. And I believe that you might feel the way I do if you had an opportunity to experience the atmosphere of this “red sphere, a terrifying area to many.” Siriprapa Chamnanturakit 189

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน Today is my first school day at the new school in Pattani. Before I left home, I felt awfuly anxious and scared, but my mother comforted me and told me not to think too much as the reality might not be as troublesome as I had imagined. On the other hand, they might turn out even better than expected. My fear was somewhat relieved, and I came to school cautiously. On my way to school, I rode my motorcycle through many checkpoints. Again, I felt safer because at least there were selfless soldiers and police officers constantly inspecting travelers and ensuring their safety. When I arrived at the school, the first notable difference I found was the dress code. What was most obvious was the wearing of hijab (veils) by the female students. Coupled with long-sleeved shirts and long skirts, their dresses conceal most parts of the body. I also saw male students wearing Muslim caps (white circular hats) and long pants. The moment I saw them, I immediately knew that they were Muslims. These dress codes must be unique to the local people, I thought, as they looked completely different from the Buddhist students. I parked my motorcycle and walked in to greet a teacher at the school gate. If the greeters were the Thai Buddhist students, they would Wai (pressing palms together as in praying with a slight head-bow), as usual. Thai Muslim students would say Assalamualaikum—may peace be upon you— to 190 A Tale from the Red Land

Thai Tales from the Deep South 191 the teacher, while shaking his/her right hand, and the teacher would respond by saying Wa alaykumu s-salam—may peace be upon you. The exception was that the handshake is for those of the same sex. Starting the first class period of theday were 36 students in the classroom. I counted by the way they dressed and found that 12 were Buddhist like me and 24 were Muslim. My roommates, both the Thai Buddhists and the Thai Muslims, looked very friendly with their smiles (A friend generously told me that believers of Islam should be caled Muslims). My impression was that everyone gave me a friendly smile and introduced themselves to me. After listening to their names, I found Islamic names extremely difficult to pronounce because they sounded different from common names in the Thai language. My friends explained to me that these names are either Arabic or Malay because they are influenced by Islamic adoption. Girls’ names are, for example,Ameenoh and Jamilah, and guys’ names are Irfan and Hamdan. There was no separation between Thai Buddhists and Thai Muslims in my classroom. We happily stayed together, played with each other, and helped one another with homework. Although I came here for the first day, they treated me wel as if I had been here for a long time. At lunch break, I walked to the cafeteria with two friends. They recommended that unique and popular dishes here include Ayam Golek, Siriprapa Chamnanturakit

เรื่องเล่าจากปลายด้ามขวาน Massaman curry soup, and Murtabak. Because I have never had them and wanted to give them a try, I ordered the food based on their suggestions. The first dish to arrive was Ayam Golek. It looked orange and smeled aromatic. It was tasty, slightly spicy, but fairly sweet. The second one was Massaman Curry. This dish was not too spicy. The taste was nutty-sweet balanced from the blend of aromatic spices. The last order was Murtabak, a pan-fried bread stuffed with cooked meat, which had a salty taste and a delicious smel from the spices. When I finished the meal, I went straight to the class and studied until it was time to go home. For the entire day, I had experienced the sharing life with the other students at school. I appreciated the kindness and friendliness of my Thai Buddhist and Thai Muslim friends. Despite many of our differences, such as ways of life, traditions, and culture, they tried to explain and suggested things about this area that I didn’t know existed before. Over the weekend, they also invited me to take a quick trip with them to popular tourist places in the three southern border provinces. I don’t know why, but this time, I did not feel as terrified as before. I felt like I wanted to actualy go out and explore more. On Saturday, two friends of mine came to pick me up in the morning because we needed to get to the first place, Wat Chang Hai, as soon as possible to pay homage to Luang Pu Thuad— a revered Buddhist monk who was long deceased—because this friend and I believe that such an action wil bring prosperity to our lives. Another friend of mine, a Muslim, had to wait in the temple’s front 192 A Tale from the Red Land

Thai Tales from the Deep South courtyard until around noon. She suggested that I continue to visit the Pattani Central Mosque because it is the most beautiful mosque in Pattani. She told me that she also wanted to make Salah there— the prayer routine. When we arrived at the Pattani Central Mosque, I was amazed by the astonisshing scenery. This mosque is a two-story concrete building with a large major dome at the center of the building and four smaler domes in four directions. Its two towers were exceptionaly tal and looked magnificent. I didn’t hesitate to immediately grab my phone and took photos. Then I sat down and waited until my friend finished with the Salah. Time flies. It was then two o’clock in the afternoon. My friend’s father was coming to pick one of our friends for some errands in Narathiwat. He asked the other friend and I if we would like to spend the evening at Narathat Beach. We didn’t hesitate to say yes. After finishing with the father’s errands, we then arrived at the beach. The charm of this beach can easily compete with others in Thailand. The curved beach stretches across approximately five kilometers of the coastline. In addition to the white sand and crystal-clear water, this beach is home to many fishing vilages laid throughout the place. In front of the villages, I saw boats with exquisite and colorful paintings. My friend told me that these are Kolae boats, a culture of the southern folks. It was their ideas to draw color patterns on them. Moreover, there are many restaurants lined up on the beach. We had the opportunity to enjoy our meal there before traveling back on separate ways home. The friend’s father volunteered to give us a ride to Pattani’s city center. Siriprapa Chamnanturakit 193

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายดา้ มขวาน After two months residing in Pattani, I have learned to coexist in many multicultural ways, such as trying the tradition of eating sticky rice known as Makae Puloh, a Malay term for a wedding or a celebratory feast. Such dishes include Beef Massaman Curry, beef soup, and stir-fried glass noodles. Moreover, I was also invited to a tea charity caled Makae Tae. This type of event raises funds to support those in need of a large sum of money but could not afford it. The usual meals in Makae Tae include Nasi Kerabu, tea, and sticky rice with shrimp. I also attended many more events. As far as my story went, I learned that we should not be too attached to something in life without opening up to something new. We should not only look for the bad side of things without taking time to think or experience it ourselves. Like me, I used to be very frightened of this area, but once I came in, I experienced joy and created memorable memories, which would not have happened if I didn’t open up my mind to learning and living as a member of the multicultural community amidst differences.. Now, it appears that I have already falen in love with the people here and grown to be fond of its places. And from now on, I have become a member of this region, the red land. 194 A Tale from the Red Land

My Beloved Tadika Nurilham Damuhi Translated by Fatimah Jeharsae



Thai Tales from the Deep South My Beloved Tadika Nurilham Damuhi “Alahu Akbar Alahu Akbar Ashhadu an la ilaha ila Alah…” (God is Great. God is Great. I bear witness that there is no god except the One God.) The Adhan or the cal to prayer bawled out at the break of dawn. It had woken up those of the Muslim faith from their slumbers to perform the morning prayer. A noise sliced the air, “Nur! Kak1 Mee! It’s time to get up for the prayer.” It was Mother who caled to wake up everyone in the house. She did this every morning, like a shrieking alarm clock that made my elder sister and I hurriedly jump out of bed. For fear of our Mother’s earful sermon, we rushed to the bathroom for an ablution. After finishing Subhi or the morning prayer, Kak Mee went back for a lie in. On Saturdays and Sundays, she could afford to have a super relaxing weekend. Unlike my sister, it was my Tadika day. “Tadika” is an Islamic education center or a religious school. Operated by a mosque committee, the school provides basic education about Islam for children aged between four and 12 years. 1 Kak, a vernacular Malay word, referring to an elder sister. Nurilham Damuhi 197

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน One morning, it was Mother’s duty day as a Tadika teacher to open the school gate. I saw her ironing my Tadika uniform in a hurry, having a quick shower, getting dressed, and rushing to Tadika earlier than usual. Since before 7 a.m., Mother had already been there like a gatekeeper, welcoming her students. Not being in her shoes, I took my time in the bathroom singing in the shower. I never needed to hurry as the Tadika was just around the corner from my home. However, I needed to arrive at the school before 8 o’clock. As a morning routine, every student had to clean their classroom including the school grounds. It might appear odd with the fact that a teacher was assigned to open the gate and that the students had to see to their classrooms by themselves. This was because we did not have a school janitor. Al Tadika teachers had many different responsibilities. Therefore, they needed to take up several roles at the same time: from an accountant, an administrator, a janitor, to even a lunch seler. That’s the reason why my friends and I had to get to the Tadika early so we could help our teachers clean up the school. Speaking of the teachers at our Tadika, there were seven of them to whom we caled “Cikgu”, a term derived from the Malay language to address teachers. Let’s get to know al of them one by one. 198 My Beloved Tadika

Thai Tales from the Deep South The first teacher was Cikgu Solahuddin, or the so-caled Pak2 Long. Pak Long was a very intimidating teacher. With only a single glance at us, he could make our spines tingle. He was always strict in the classroom but quite at his leisure outside. The second one was Cikgu Ruslan, who was referred to as Pak Cik by the students. Pak Cik was a pushover. It did not matter what he said because no one paid attention to him. In the classroom, he was always so kind and so forgiving that many students could get cheeky they almost jumped on him for a piggyback ride. The third one was our last male teacher. His name was Cikgu Marustan or Pak Su in short. Despite Pak Su’s serious persona in the class, he liked teling humorous anecdotes to the students. There was another perk about Pak Su! He was also considered the most handsome Cikgu in our Tadika. The next teacher, Cikgu Hayati or Kak Ti, was known among us as a dragon lady. She always looked tense in the classroom, with a cruel expression in her eyes (LOL). The worse thing was that she never seemed to let down her guard outside the class, not even a smile for the students. Her typical way of greeting the students in the morning would be “Hey you people! What in 2 Pak, a vernacular Malay word, referring to a male person. Nurilham Damuhi 199

เร่ืองเลา่ จากปลายด้ามขวาน the name of God are you doing here? Hurry up and clean up the room!” or “What are you waiting for? Why haven’t you put away your bags in the classroom?” It was simply in her nature to grumble. But anyhow, that was how Kak Ti was, and we loved her al the same (eyes roling with endearment - LOL). The fifth one was Cikgu Nuriyah or Kak Yah. She was always courteous and never uttered even a single word of scolding to the students. Moreover, she also had the most legible and the most exquisite handwriting among other teachers at school. As for the sixth teacher, Cikgu Nuryarita, she was known as Kak Yee. Kak Yee was a strict Cikgu who took her teaching very seriously. She seemed to focus exclusively on academic pursuits. She would make sure that the students realy understood her lessons unless we would not be able to walk out of the class. If viewed as necessary, she would prolong her class until the next teacher needed to knock on the door to remind her that her lesson was over (LOL). Our last teacher was caled Cikgu Pasilah or Kak Lah. In actual fact, this was my Mother. Everyone tried hard not to displease her, or else the class would turn into a religious session with lengthy sermons. However, Mother was one of the most dedicated teachers. She always cared about the students’ attendance, and 200 My Beloved Tadika